HOMEBREW Digest #4726 Fri 25 February 2005

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  Re: "No Hose Barb" site ("Rob Dewhirst")
  Pale Ale in germany ("Dave Burley")
  re: Subject: Help with Electric System (Baruch Mettler)
  Irish kegging equipment (Peter Cox)
  Pale malt in Germany ("-S")
  Re: Help with Electric Systems (Kent Fletcher)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 21:56:41 -0600 From: "Rob Dewhirst" <rob at hairydogbrewery.com> Subject: Re: "No Hose Barb" site > William Menzl asked about a website that preached the benefit of QDs > versus hose barbs. I was kind of anxious to see the responses to this, since I've been wanting to replace my hose barbs with QD's some day. I always got hung up on price though, especially to do all the connections. > http://sdcollins.home.mindspring.com/ "I purchased my QD's from US Plastics (part #'s 60465 & 60467). They were very inexpensive." $5 for each connection + shipping, if I read this right. Hose barbs are inexpensive. These QD's are not. Will someone wake me up when quick disconnects get less than the 75 cent nylon hose barbs I can buy at my local hardware store? thanks. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 07:55:05 -0500 From: "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley at charter.net> Subject: Pale Ale in germany Brewsters, Florian Hirschmann asks how to make a British Ale using brewing materials available in Germany. Biggest difference in German Pale malt and Britain Pale Ale malts is the British has been roasted to slightly higher temperature. You can re-heat it up to a little higher temperature in your oven but you risk enzyme damage if you are doing all grain. I suggest you add a little caramel malt to the Pale German malt as a good simulation. I would start with 5% of a light Caramel Malt. Since many British ale recipes have Crystal ( approx equal to German Caramel Malt - let Lovibond color rating be your guide) I'd just make up the recipe as dictated and tune it up with a little more caramel malt, as needed. This should be fine and you can use local supplies. The big secret of British Ales is not so much the malts ( as there are many malt mixtures "typical" of Britsh Ales) but the use of British yeasts and hops and a relatively warm fermentation. Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 09:57:17 -0800 From: Baruch Mettler <bmettler at HealthLineSystems.com> Subject: re: Subject: Help with Electric System >> On 24 Feb 2005 Rick Theiner asked for hot water tank element install ideas as well as general hints. Hey Rick, I ran electric with my 15.5 gallon SS kettle for the first few dozen brews. I had two 4500 watt water heater elements running 110v. Recently I've gone to propane and prefer it over the electric quite a bit, but then again I do not have bad winters here in southern California. If you have to go electric here are some suggestions. If you are doing 10 gallon batches: Find a good fitting lid to keep in the heat Think about insulating the boil kettle (dropped my time to boil by half) Prepare to wait a long time for the boil to start Get something bigger than my two 4500 watt elements In general: Two 4500 watt elements at 110v is fine for 5 gallons. You could probably get by with one. Make sure your electrical wiring is up for the load. A 15amp circuit breaker is not enough - even in a brand new house with good wiring :) An indicator light is nice. You can tell when your breaker blows because you turn on a halogen light on the same circuit (oops). Use a heavy duty power cord. I first used a 5$ Wal-Mart power cord that got way to hot. Test your system before brew day to make sure there are no leaks and you can boil in a reasonable amount of time. As far as installing the elements into the kettle I found that copper pipe fittings, I think they are NPT, did work ok. Found them at home depot. Something like this one (don't trust me on the size): http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/productdetail.jsp?xi=xi&ItemId=1611592728&c citem= I had to mash the threads by slowly threading and unthreading the element into the copper fitting. Advance the element by maybe 1/2 a turn at a time and then backing out. Do this outside of the kettle in a vice until you get them to fit nicely. I've seen some people hack off the solder side of the fitting to make a nice nut. I just bought one with the solder side big enough to fit the element through. I do have to be careful to flush out the cavity this makes when cleaning. When installing I only used the rubber washer that came with the element and the copper fitting. Copper fitting on the inside, butting against the SS, then the rubber washer on the outside of the kettle, then the element. It would have been handy to have some large washers but I did not find them necessary. cutting through the SS was surprisingly easy. I used a bi-metal hole saw, a pneumatic drill, and some wd-40 to cool the SS and drill bit as it cut. You mention you are patterning your system off Ron LaBorde's system. He used a HDPE kettle but if you use SS Make sure your hole has no burrs. I had some trouble mashing out and tearing up the rubber washer on one of my elements when putting mine together. I think I was twisting and the washer was catching on a burr. Good luck! Baruch Mettler Temecula, Ca Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 13:10:48 -0600 From: Peter Cox <pcox at southbull.com> Subject: Irish kegging equipment Hi folks - I've been homebrewing in the US for a few years now and have a corny keg setup with a 5lb cylinder. I'll be moving back to Ireland soon, and am not sure if the standards are the same there. If I take my kegs and cylinder/regulator back with me, will I be able to get refills/replacement parts? Or am I better off leaving the gear here and getting new stuff in Ireland? Thanks, Peter Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 15:08:46 -0500 From: "-S" <-s at adelphia.net> Subject: Pale malt in Germany Florian Hirschmann wrote ... > As I cannot get my hands on (British) pale ale malt here in Germany, In past decades lager malts were made from higher protein barley, and were less modified as compared to PA malts. PA malts were made from somewhat different barley varieties, crops were specifically selected for low protein content, these were malted till far more modified, then kilned at a higher temp to develop a *slightly* darker color. Because of the kilning PA malts had somewhat less enzymes (some like phytase are entirely missing). The reasons for the difference had to do with the fact that the traditional UK single temperature infusion mash offered few opportunities for acid rest, protein rest etc, as compared to a multi-step extensive decoction. The idea is that in the UK the maltster does more of the job and the masher does relatively less, and much faster. The differences in the modification level and protein levels are now (the past decade) insignificant. Continental Europe uses many Triumph(Trumf) barley crosses for barley malting. These barleys modify to PA type levels rapidly and evenly. The UK and Scotland still use a different selection of 'maritime' barley cultivars, but I suspect the main differences are disease resistance in the more humid Autumn climate. The kilning temperature still differs. Part of the reason for the selection of lower protein level and higher modification malts (everywhere) is economic. Decoction or any multistep mash is very expensive wrt energy, and the equipment usage cost difference between a 25-45 minute infusion versus a 5 hour abbreviated decoction is huge. IMO you want a dry roasted pils, not a Munich malt. You must remember that PA malt produces the most well attenuated beer styles; bone dry in some cases. Munich and crystal/caramel are the wrong direction I think. Pils malts have a color around 3 EBC, most PA malts run 5-8EBC [Munich is abt 22EBC]. You could just use a lager/pils malt and you can still make good English style ales. Real PA malt adds a toasted dry background note and to emulate this with additions you should try to add just a small amount of the lightest *roast* malt you can find. DWC used to make a fine "biscuit" malt at 65EBC and adding about 5% of this to the grist should match the color(darkness) as my first guess for flavor too. I also think you could make some PA colored malt from lager malt but judging the color is difficult. I would suggest you try spreading pils malt in a wide pan in a 100C to 110C oven for 45 minutes up to 1.5 hours (roughly). The color of PA malt is just slightly darker than pils malt. These can easily be distinguished when compared side-by-side, but not so easily identified separately. If it helps for color comparison Weyermann Vienna malt(Wiener Malz) is 6-9EBC and slightly darker than most PA malts. Groggy Greg says ..., >why can't you get them via mail order? The cheapest UPS rate for a sack from London to Munich is about 115Eur($152usd) which is pretty steep for a sack that would cost around $20usd at wholesale. You can ship the same sack from LA to NewYork(4 times farther) for under 40Eur. Now you know why mail_order/web_commerce is not the same in EUland. -S(teveA) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 14:14:21 -0800 (PST) From: Kent Fletcher <fletcherhomebrew at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Help with Electric Systems Eric wants to make a Harry Potter brewery, with electric HLT and BK. Most water heater elements are either bolt-on or screw-in, and the majority of the screw-in have 1" NPSM threads. That is National Pipe Straight - Male. As opposed to the more familiar NPT taper threads. It can be quite difficult to make up a bulkead arrangement that will work because the normal pipe coupling has Taper threads. So, you either need to find a source for a National Pipe Straght coupling (sometimes called a Merchant coupling), or get some 1" Pipe Locknuts, which are available from McMaster-Carr at http://www.mcmaster.com Hope that helps, Kent Fletcher Return to table of contents
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