HOMEBREW Digest #4879 Wed 02 November 2005

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  Google Map HBD (Dan)
  Google map for HBD (bob.devine)
  Re: Boiling pot spigot (Nate & Brenda Wahl)
  Evaporation rate ("A.J deLange")
  re: Evaporation rates ("Michael Owings")
  Aerating and pitching (Jesse Stricker)
  Re: Evaporation rates (Dylan Tack)
  RE: Attaching a spigot to the boiling pot. (Tony Brown)
  Re: Immersion chiller stirring and trub mixing? (Chuck Doucette)
  MCAB Needs You ("David Houseman")
  RE: Google map ("Brian Lundeen")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 01 Nov 2005 21:03:52 -0700 From: Dan <dan at boisecenter.net> Subject: Google Map HBD Hello all, My first post, and my first contribution : http://www.danmorgan.net/hbd Let me know what you think. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2005 04:20:29 +0000 From: bob.devine at att.net Subject: Google map for HBD What a great community of folks. No sooner than I suggest the idea of using Google's map tools, than not one but two maps are available. Because the map at http://www.nhbrewers.com/mapbeer.html is already for clubs and such, I suggest that it be kept that way and separtate from a map of people. For homebewers, I suggest that Nathan's creation at http://www.frappr.com/hbd be for homebrewers. I've just tried it out, and it is a snap to add your info. Would the esteemed janitors for HBD approve of 2 maps? Perhaps the hbd.org site can add links to them and keep the people / places maps discrete? Bob Devine (traveling now, not even close to homebase of Riverton, UT) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2005 06:01:12 -0500 From: Nate & Brenda Wahl <cruiser at coastalwave.net> Subject: Re: Boiling pot spigot In HBD at 4878 Eric asks about welding a spigot on is boil pot, swirling with the immersion chiller, and spigot arrangement. Here's what I've used with modest success. Keep the fitting as low as you can; having to 'lift' the wort up first via siphon increases the probability that you'll get an air bubble to block the flow as the level lowers. A full coupling, with threads on both ends, welded on gives you the option to screw in whatever fittings/valves you need inside and out. I have a close elbow on the inside, which goes down a short ways to a screened-in Tee which sits right in the corner of the bottom dome. When I agitate by moving the immersion coil, I do so as to whirlpool the wort to promote a cone of trub near the middle of the pot. I say near the middle, because as it is cooling I keep the pot tipped back away from the outlet, so the cone forms near the back. When cooled sufficiently it settles that way undistrubed for a short time while getting ready to fill the fermenter(s). When it comes time to rack, I gently tip and keep the kettle leaning forward a bit; the trub seems to stay where it is, and I can get all but about a pint out of the bottom. The only time I ever had it stick was when all pellet hops were used, so now I make sure that at least 1 ounce or so are leaf in the recipies. Another thing that helps get things cool quicker is genlty spraying the kettle outside occasionally, particularly the top and bottom skirts and rounded bottom itself, with a fine mist of water. (Multi-function hose nozzles are great!) The trub on the bottom seems to hold in a lot of heat down there, somewhat insulating the metal from the wort, so it cools very slowly otherwise. The skirts are thick and hold a lot of heat. I hope these ideas can help! Cheers, Nate Wahl Oak Harbor, OH 64.3, 145.8, the driveway on the left. PS, my wife and I are having our annual-but-delayed Halloween beer gathering this Saturday, if anybody on the list nearby that wants to come over and meet some fellow homebrewers, please drop me a line and we'll hook up! - -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.12.7/155 - Release Date: 11/1/2005 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2005 13:47:41 +0000 From: "A.J deLange" <ajdel at cox.net> Subject: Evaporation rate Evaporation rate as a percentage is realative to the initial volume. The rate of evaporation is roughly constant. I suppose you could argue that as the liquid level recedes further down into the kettle there is less access to drafts to carry moisture away but for all practical purposes the rate stays constant (especially if you add makeup water as the boil progresses). Thus if you have 10 gallons of wort and lose at a rate of 1 gallon per hour that is 10% per hour at the outset, 10.526%/hr after 30 minutes, 11.111%/hr at the end of the first hour and so on. While all these are close enough to 10% for government work the important thing is that to calculate makeup water or final volume after the boil it is the actual approximately constant loss rate that you want to use i.e. the percentage of the initial volume. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2005 08:27:01 -0600 (CST) From: "Michael Owings" <mikey at swampgas.com> Subject: re: Evaporation rates In HBD 4878 Francisco asks about boil off rate expressed as a percentage versus a fixed volume per hour: As far as I can tell, the volume boiled off is constant, not a percentage. Some HB brewing texts DO talk about boil-off as a percentage/hour, but I believe this is an error. I use promash as well, and always use the gal/hour setting in my calcs. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2005 07:19:22 -0800 From: Jesse Stricker <stricker at bioeng.ucsd.edu> Subject: Aerating and pitching Carl Sherman Jr. writes: > I am using an aquarium pump and stone to aerate my wort in the fermentor. I > have read that you must wait for the foam to subside before pitching the > yeast, but can not find any reasoning for this. During aeration, I have to > stop before the foam comes out the top of the carboy. I have waited for the > foam to subside, but this takes quite a while, and I am afraid of > contaminating the wort. For what it's worth, I've been aerating with the same setup you describe for a couple of years, and I've pitched the yeast before aeration, during aeration, immediately after aeration, and, when I forgot, after the foam subsided. I didn't notice any difference, although I suppose there might have been some subtle effect. I usually pitch yeast into siphoned wort, then aerate it until it's got a nice thick foam head on top. I can't think of any reason not to do this. If you pitch the yeast right onto the foam, some probably won't make it through, but most of it will. Jesse (San Diego, CA) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2005 09:19:49 -0600 From: Dylan Tack <dylan at io.com> Subject: Re: Evaporation rates > From: Francisco Jones <frandog at earthlink.net> > Subject: Evaporation rates > > In other words, as the volume in the boil pot decreases, with the > percent fixed, less water is lost in the next time increment than in > the previous time increment. So boil-off is quadratic, or > logarithmic, or whatever? Not linear? > I believe the evaporation rate is linear. For every unit of heat that is put into the wort, a constant quantity of water will change to steam. This is known as the heat of vaporization. For water, it is 539 calories per gram. Interestingly, you can use the Google calculator to estimate evaporation rate: http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&q=1+gram+%2F+539+calories+*+1000 0+BTU+%2F+1+hour+in+kg%2Fhour&btnG=Search or: http://tinyurl.com/bgbvc This is, of course, a very loose approximation because in most situations it's very difficult to know how much energy is going into your boil kettle, vs. how much is being lost due to various inefficiencies. Still, it is illustrative of what's happening. -Dylan Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2005 15:50:26 -0500 From: Tony Brown <speleobopper at gmail.com> Subject: RE: Attaching a spigot to the boiling pot. The spigot on my brew kettle is mounted pretty close to the bottom (about 1 inch away). When I first turn it on to transfer to my carboys the trub starts to run through but then pretty quickly the wort runs clear. I let it drain until I see it turn cloudy again meaning that almost all of the wort has been transferred. The trub however settles to the bottom of the kettle after the hot break. The wort escapes in the middle of the transfer process. I recommend Zymurgy magazine. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2005 12:52:35 -0800 (PST) From: Chuck Doucette <cdoucette61 at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Immersion chiller stirring and trub mixing? Randy Sanders writes: ...pump the wort through the chiller itself. Place the chiller in a bucket of ice water....adding rock salt to the ice water...and simply stirring the ice water while the wort is flowing in the coils... Thanks for the tip Randy! I've been using just that type of wort chiller since I started brewing with extract 4 1/2 years ago. Now that I've switched to an all grain set up and doubled my batch size, I've made one change to my chiller - I added a plastic spigot so I could drain some water and add more ice. I have been wondering lately how I could obtain lower temps with it. You have given me the answer. I need to get about 10 additional degrees F lower, which the rock salt should give me. Thanks again. Chuck Doucette O'Fallon, IL (Just across the Big Muddy from you) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2005 17:22:02 -0500 From: "David Houseman" <david.houseman at verizon.net> Subject: MCAB Needs You The Seventh MCAB has come and gone this year. While it was actually a successful competition it was poorly supported in the number of entries received. MCAB isn't discussed on the various forums or in the halls like it once was. The creative force behind the MCAB, Louis Bonham, has become too busy in his professional life to remain it's driving force. We all appreciate what Louis has done for MCAB and homebrewing but now we need to look forward to how we'll continue MCAB into the future. It is November already and no one has stepped forward to run MCAB for 2006. In discussions with a number of those involved with MCAB over the years, we feel that for MCAB to continue some fundamental changes are needed. Some of the MCABs have been very successful events in addition to competitions. Some of these have lost money for their organizers. This year we did charge a nominal entry fee and about broke even, including generous support from the BJCP. But MCAB now needs a new driving force, someone who will nurture MCAB each year. We feel that MCAB likely needs to settle to a single host region/club for long term stability in an area accessible to a sufficient judge pool and in close proximity to the MCAB leader. By charging a nominal entry fee, having the location and approximate date for the MCAB fixed and with consistent leadership, this competition can flourish. If you are a leader in a region with a good judge pool and part of a club that would like to Adopt the MCAB as their yearly project please speak up. MCAB is best held in the February timeframe in order to best reflect the qualifying events from the prior year. It's getting late so we'd like to get something organized now for 2006. David Houseman MCAB Organizing Committee Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2005 17:00:52 -0600 From: "Brian Lundeen" <blundeen at mts.net> Subject: RE: Google map > Date: 01 Nov 2005 01:02:32 -0500 > From: nathanw at MIT.EDU (Nathan J. Williams) > Subject: Re: Google map for HBD readers? > > > If anyone wants to add themselves, I've created a Frappr map > under the group name "hbd". > > http://www.frappr.com/hbd > OK, I know they just plunk the marker down somewhere near the city centre, but it's a little creepy that it appeared just a couple of blocks from where I spent the first 12 years of my life. Cheers Brian, in Winnipeg Return to table of contents
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