HOMEBREW Digest #4944 Sun 05 February 2006

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  Pete's stuck fermentation (Fred L Johnson)
  Re: hopbacking (Fred L Johnson)
  Rice Hulls (Glyn Crossno)
  stuck fermentation (Mark Nesdoly)
  stuck fermentation ("Peter A. Ensminger")
  Woodstock Inn ("Craig S. Cottingham")
  BJCP Annual Report is now available (BJCP Communication Director)
  RE: Lagers made from ale malt [Sec: Unclassified] ("Williams, Rowan")
  Mash Tun Rest ("John Kennedy")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 06:34:43 -0500 From: Fred L Johnson <FLJohnson52 at nc.rr.com> Subject: Pete's stuck fermentation Pete has a "stuck" fermentation that started at 1.095 and won't go below 1.048. He even tried adding a small amount (4 cups) of this stuck wort to another yeast slurry without any more fermentation. I would probably conclude that this wort is simply not very fermentable, but before I did, I would try adding some source of other nutrients to the 4 cups sitting on some other slurry. Perhaps there is some other growth limiting factor that is missing. Fred L Johnson Apex, North Carolina, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 06:53:34 -0500 From: Fred L Johnson <FLJohnson52 at nc.rr.com> Subject: Re: hopbacking Dave asked about the hop aroma that I got from my split batch of bitter in which I hopbacked each half with two different hops and got significantly different bitterness levels in the two batches. (Dave says he doesn't get very good aroma from hopback additions.) I must confess that I failed to mention that I also dry hopped each half of the split batch, so I can't easily comment on the aroma effect of the hopbacking. What makes matters more complicated is that I dry hopped the Goldings-hopbacked batch with 1 oz of Fuggles and dryhopped the Northdown-hopbacked batch with 1 oz of Northdown, both for 7 days in the secondary. The aroma was actually very nice in both beers, but I attributed the aroma in these batches primarily to the dry hopping, although any aroma differences would certainly be partly due to the hopbacking differences. I know this muddies the water a little regarding the bitterness level in these beers, which is my main concern here, but I am assuming that I cannot attribute the large difference in bitterness to differences in dry hopping. I'd like to hear comments from others on the contribution of bitterness from dry hopping if anyone has ever split a batch, dry hopping only half the batch? If so, how different was the bitterness in those? Fred L Johnson Apex, North Carolina, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 05:54:30 -0800 (PST) From: Glyn Crossno <graininfuser at yahoo.com> Subject: Rice Hulls I used rice hulls a couple of times. I had a bad experience with rye (I let the mash get to cool). So for the next rye beer I packed rice hulls around the slotted manifold. It worked great, but I think getting and keeping the mash above 150^F was the key. When empting out the tun the rice hulls at slots were still white, being a rye stout this was interesting. Re-use the dry yeast. With my brewing schedule these days I have been using dry yeast a lot. I re-use it all the time. Leave the Saison where it is, warm. It is a slow yeast anyway. Glyn S. Middle TN Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2006 11:53:30 -0700 From: Mark Nesdoly <m-nesdoly at shaw.ca> Subject: stuck fermentation Pete, I can relate. When I first started brewing, I'd always add 1/2 tsp of yeast nutrient to every batch. Then I forgot for a few batches, and the beer still turned out great. So I stopped using yeast nutrient altogether. Everything was okay until I moved and happened to live close to a maltster - Gambrinus in Armstrong, BC (Canada). The first couple of batches made with their malt, I got stuck fermentations. And I had never had a stuck ferment before. The only difference was the malt. In desperation, I bought a lot of yeast nutrient, and the directions state to use 1/2 tsp per gallon. So I added 2.5 tsp per carboy (I make 10 gallon batches), of course boiled in a little water. The yeast took off like a scalded cat and finished where it should. Since then, I've taken to adding 5 tsp of nutrient to the kettle for the last 15 min of the boil. No stuck fermentations since. Boil up some nutrient and see if that doesn't help. Of course, swirl the yeast back into suspension when you do. - -- Mark Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 05 Feb 2006 02:05:00 -0500 From: "Peter A. Ensminger" <ensmingr at twcny.rr.com> Subject: stuck fermentation In the previous HBD, http://www.hbd.org/hbd/archive/4943.html#4943-10, Pete Calinski noted the high terminal gravity (~1.048) of his barleywine. He notes that he added 3 lbs of Laaglander dark DME in the boil. My understanding is that Laaglander dry malt extracts are high in dextrins, so 3 lbs was too much. You probably won't be able to ferment to a lower gravity unless you break down the dextrins to fermentable sugars. How to do that? You might try to add some amylase (from a homebrew store), which can break down large dextrins to fermentable sugars and 'limit dextrins'. Then add some more yeast after a few days. I believe that homebrew amylase is a mixture of alpha and beta amylase, but I'm not sure of its source (plant? fungal? microbial?) or its temperature sensitivity. Alternatively, you might try to add some wall-paper stripper to your beer, and then some yeast. Wall paper stripper is high in amylase and works well at room temperature. Of course, then you would have a true 'specialty beer' (BJCP category #23). Cheerio! Peter A. Ensminger Syracuse, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 12:28:29 -0600 From: "Craig S. Cottingham" <craig.cottingham at gmail.com> Subject: Woodstock Inn We're planning a vacation to New England this summer, and stumbled across the website for the Woodstock Inn in North Woodstock, NH. It's a B&B style inn that allows children -- which in itself is unusual -- and has an on-premise brewpub. Naturally, my ears perked up when my wife told me that. :-) Has anyone reading been to the Woodstock Inn? Is it worth visiting, or are we better off looking elsewhere? - -- Craig S. Cottingham craig.cottingham at gmail.com Olathe, KS ([621, 251.1] Apparent Rennerian) OpenPGP fingerprint: 0x7977F79C Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 14:46:29 -0500 From: BJCP Communication Director <communication_director at bjcp.org> Subject: BJCP Annual Report is now available The BJCP Annual Report can be found on the website at http://www.bjcp.org/annual2005.html Ed Westemeier BJCP Communication Director communication_director [at] bjcp.org Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 09:52:12 +1100 From: "Williams, Rowan" <Rowan.Williams at ag.gov.au> Subject: RE: Lagers made from ale malt [Sec: Unclassified] Hi Steve / A.J. - Many thanks for the quick and, as usual, informative reply! Apologies for the scant info on my other grains in my original post - I have some melanoidin, munich and caramunich in the pantry. I note your comments on the different flavour characteristics, but since I'm relatively new to brewing lagers, I'll use pale ale malt as the base and get some practice making the pseudo lager so that when I do get a bag or two of pils malt, I'll have had practice especially in relation to making lager yeast starters and fermenting in the fridge. >From what I've read, it appears to be the case that successful lagers are made with patience (eg extended fermentation durations) and whilst there's always an important role for temperature to play in the mash, there exists an arguably more important role for temperature control and yeast management during fermentation and ongoing storage / lagering.... The UK pale ale malt is 6 EBC so it shouldn't make too dark a lager when I couple it with some Carapils and Hallertau MF pellets and a decent sized Wyeast 2124 starter... Cheers, Rowan Williams Canberra Brewers Club [9588.6, 261.5] AR (statute miles) P.S. Steve - I replied directly but my email response was bounced. Methinks Micro$oft's interpretation of the relevant RFC doesn't include email addresses with your syntax! ;-) - ----------------------------------------------------------------- If you have received this transmission in error please notify us immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies. If this e-mail or any attachments have been sent to you in error, that error does not constitute waiver of any confidentiality, privilege or copyright in respect of information in the e-mail or attachments. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 09:46:22 +1000 From: "John Kennedy" <johnk at readybake.com.au> Subject: Mash Tun Rest Hi guys, I have been trying to find out information about a mash rest at 72C (162F), this rest is after the 65.5C (150F)rest and conversion, it's suppose to be good for head retention.?, I can't find any think about in the brewing books, and I was wondering if any one knows any think about it. Thanks in advance if you are able to help. Regards John Kennedy Return to table of contents
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