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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


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Contents:
  Saccharomyces uvarum - it's baaaack ("Peter A. Ensminger")
  Diacetyl with Wyeast 1968 (Calvin Perilloux)
  Muncie IN water ("Brian Pic")
  Oxygen absorbing/scavenging caps ("Steve Dale-Johnson")
  Evan Krause please contact me (Dion Hollenbeck)


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JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
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Date: Tue, 13 Dec 2005 23:57:32 -0500
From: "Peter A. Ensminger" <ensmingr at twcny.rr.com>
Subject: Saccharomyces uvarum - it's baaaack

Hi Steve-

OK, first, it's the French ...

I remember a visit to Jardin des Plantes (Paris) and seeing a large 
statue of (Jean-Baptiste Pierre Antoine de Monet, Chevalier de) Lamarck 
with the epithet [trans.] "Lamarck, the Founder of the Theory of 
Evolution".

What do the French know?

Peter A. Ensminger
Syracuse, NY
Apparent Rennerian: [394, 79.9]



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Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2006 07:10:22 -0800 (PST)
From: Calvin Perilloux <calvinperilloux at yahoo.com>
Subject: Diacetyl with Wyeast 1968

Pete Limosani in the previous HBD asks about diacetyl 
production using Wyeast 1968.  

Pete, I've used that yeast before and have noticed a bit
of diacetyl, usually much more detectable during fermentation
than after.  However, the potential is there for sustained
levels in the finished beer, specifically because this yeast
is highly flocculant.

That gives you a nice, clear beer quickly, but it can also
mean that if you do have lots of diacteyl production during
fermentation, then much of the yeast is no longer in
suspension to reduce it in a short time period.

The solution?  Whenever using 1968, regular rousing is
one of my standards.  That not only reduces diacetyl,
but it also helps this high flucculator finish out the
fermentation completely.

As to why Wyeast recommends a rest at 50-70F, maybe
that's just to let you know that *if* there is diacetyl
in your beer, that's not the time to keg it and chill
it down in the fridge.

Calvin Perilloux
Middletown, Maryland, USA



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Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2006 10:24:31 -0500
From: "Brian Pic" <bpicke at gmail.com>
Subject: Muncie IN water

Hey,

HBD is as great as ever.   I had stopped reading for a year or two,
but have been reading again lately from my new gmail account.  I just
let it fill up with HBDs.  :-)   Several people have submitted their
water reports recently, so please allow me to follow suit as it is
something I have never fully understood but I have been wanting to
nail it down.

Here is my water report for Muncie, Indiana from the local water utility.

Total Hardness                321 ppm
Total Alkalinity                246 ppm
Calcium                        65 ppm
Magnesium                        23 ppm
Sodium                        17 ppm
Chloride                        54.5 ppm
Sulfate                        35.2 ppm
Carbonate and/or Bicarbonate        (not available)
Iron                                0.01 ppm

Is this report complete enough?    I have been using a lot of RO
water, but that is getting old and I would like to use my tap water
for as much as possible.   Also, I would like to take advantage of any
time saving techniques such as lactic acid, calcium cloride, etc...
but never know quite how much to start out with.   Am I brewing as
well as possible when doing that though, or would I be better off to
preboil the water?   Also, campden tablets seem almost like magic for
removing cloramine.   Do you have to stir them a lot though?   How
long do you have to wait for them to neutralize cloramine?

Thanks for any comments,

- --Brian Pic.  (Brewing about 200 miles south of the homebrew center of
the universe)



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Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2006 09:06:30 -0800
From: "Steve Dale-Johnson" <sdalejohnson at hotmail.com>
Subject: Oxygen absorbing/scavenging caps

Fred, I have a partly used bag of these in front of me.  The only marking 
they have is OXYCAP (R) at the crimp part of the crown.

I obtained mine from Paddock Wood ($$$) a couple or three years back for 
bottling a barleywine that I intended to keep for many years (forgot about 
the fact that if you drink it all it doesn't age so well) and actually 
thought they worked fairly well.  Apparently they are activated by crimping, 
and the underside of the cap turns white as O2 is neutralized by them.  
There is a limit to what they will do, but they seemed to start with a few 
speckles showing under the cap soon after bottling and had whited right out 
by the time I opened the last of the barleywine at about 2 1/2 years.  I 
don't know whether they can pick up enough O2 or fast enough to solve your 
problem (I lost all the hop aroma in my barleywine by the end) but I am 
convinced that they did help.

Hope this helps.



Steve Dale-Johnson
Brewing at 1918 miles, 298 degrees Rennerian
Delta (Vancouver), BC, Canada.




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Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2006 15:15:26 -0700
From: Dion Hollenbeck <hollen at woodsprite.com>
Subject: Evan Krause please contact me

Sorry for using the list, but I cannot get a reply from Evan directly.

Evan -

I have your RIMS stuff and sent you two different Emails to your 
HotMail account but never got any response.  Please contact me if you 
still want schematics.  I have updated ones and even board layouts.

dion

- --
Dion Hollenbeck
Email: hollen at woodsprite.com    Home Page: http://www.woodsprite.com
Brewing Page: http://hbd.org/hollen   Toys: 98 4Runner, 86 4x4 PU



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