HOMEBREW Digest #5031 Fri 14 July 2006

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  Re: Fixing carbonation in a bottled beer (Fred L Johnson)
  re: Fixing carbonation in a bottled beer (RI_homebrewer)
  TRAFFIC (Joe Katchever)
  Wee heavy carbonation ("Steve Dale-Johnson")
  Mash pH (FLJohnson52)
  Biscuit/Special Roast Malt (neil)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2006 07:10:43 -0400 From: Fred L Johnson <FLJohnson52 at nc.rr.com> Subject: Re: Fixing carbonation in a bottled beer Scott has a bottled wee heavy that won't carbonate in the bottle after priming and adding some dry yeast. He wants to consider transferring the bottled beer into a CO2 flushed cornelius keg and force carbonating the beer. Scott, don't count on no oxygen getting into this beer. It is simply myth that the CO2 blanket will remain intact with all of that transferring. Also, I would recommend putting all the bottles in a bucket of iodophor, bring a bottle out, allow to drain off most of the iodophor, pop the cap, flame the mouth, and pour into your cornelius keg. Otherwise, there is a high risk of contamination. Even if this works without spoiling from contamination or oxygen, your priming sugar is going to cause the beer to be pretty sweet. My recommendation is to put the bottles at room temperature (pretty warm in most parts of the US right now) if it is not already and wait another month before doing anything. Fred L Johnson Apex, North Carolina, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2006 05:55:04 -0700 (PDT) From: RI_homebrewer <ri_homebrewer at yahoo.com> Subject: re: Fixing carbonation in a bottled beer Hi All, In HBD #5030 Scott Alfter asked about carbonating a flat bottle conditioned beer by pouring it into a corny keg and force carbonating and then counter pressure bottling. I've never done this, but it does carry some risk of oxidation and contamination. Another thing that you can do is not pour the beer out of the bottles into the keg, but simply uncap the bottles and put the open bottles in the keg and force carbonate right in the bottles. Once they are force carbonated simply open up the keg, take them out, and recap quickly. I would suggest rinsing the outside of the bottles with a sanitizer like idophor before uncapping and placing them in the keg. You can probably force carbonate 6 to 8 bottles at a time this way by carefully placing/stacking them into the keg. Jeff McNally Tiverton, RI (652.2 miles, 90.0 deg) A.R. South Shore Brew Club Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2006 10:11:28 -0500 From: Joe Katchever <joe at pearlstreetbrewery.com> Subject: TRAFFIC I rarely post to this site but I have to agree with John Peed. HBD is far from obsolete. There are many other sites out there that will come and go but HBD is still the biggest and the baddest! I read this digest every day. It inspires and educates. Cheers, - -- Joe Katchever Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2006 10:53:30 -0700 From: "Steve Dale-Johnson" <sdalejohnson at hotmail.com> Subject: Wee heavy carbonation Scott (or is that Scot with the wee heavy?), I'm not sure of whether you will be happy with a force carbonated wee heavy, especially if you intend to keep it long term. My experiece with kegging and force carbonating has been mixed, the only way I have been successful keeping the beer from oxidation has been to fill a keg with iodophor solution to sanitize, and then push it out with C02. You can make an "out to out" corny jumper to chain kegs together to minimize wasted iodophor and C02 and do all your clean empty kegs at once. I then have a racking cane connected to another corny "out" fitting which I rack into the corny keg with, and a "gas in" fitting on a piece of hose that goes in a container of iodophor to bubble/vent without allowing air back in. As an easier solution, I now keg carbonate (cheaper than C02 fills too) by just using the hatch, adding boiled sugar syrup, filling to the very top, and then sealing the lid with a quick blast of C02. Two to four weeks and voila. The yeast seems to keep the beer from oxidation. You will be successful yeast carbonating the nastiest and gnarliest heavies and barleywines by using EC1118, a couple packs properly rehydrated first and mixed into the bottling vessel before bottling. Dry yeast added to a big beer without rehydration will not live. As a tip, it's always wise to let the beer finish in the carboy on 1118 before adding fresh 1118 again at bottling to ensure that you don't have any bottle bombs from differential sugar uptake of the 1118 strain over your Scottish ale yeast. Steve Dale-Johnson Brewing at 1918 miles, 298 degrees Rennerian Delta (Vancouver), BC, Canada. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2006 14:16:01 -0400 From: FLJohnson52 at nc.rr.com Subject: Mash pH I have read in many places that a desirable mash pH is in the range of 5.2-5.5. However, in John Palmer's web publication, How to Brew, Palmer provides some really nice nomograms for calculating adjustments to one's brewing liquor which target the range of pH 5.6-6.0. Can someone straighten me out on this? (Perhaps John is listening.) Fred L Johnson Apex, North Carolina, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2006 18:54:34 -0500 From: <neil at scottishbrewing.com> Subject: Biscuit/Special Roast Malt I'm looking for experience/opinion on the need for and use of Biscuit and/or Special Roast malts. I've never used either myself but have long had a lingering question about them. >From what I can gather, these malts are designed to emulate English style ales to contribute that 'earthy' or 'biscuit' aroma/flavor. The simple fact is no British brewer does or has ever used these malts to my knowledge. So, what is in the basic combination of base malt, maybe some crystal, the water and the yeast used by British brewers that these malts are attempting to reproduce? British malts are readily available in the US and, if any of the liquid yeast producers are to be believed, so are British ale yeasts. That only leaves water and production techniques (including scale). So, what is it and why would one use these malts to mimic the style? Also, any feedback on perosonal experience and results, grist percentages, etc. greatly appreciated. Cheers! Neil Spake Author and Webmaster, www.ScottishBrewing.com Return to table of contents
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