HOMEBREW Digest #5033 Mon 17 July 2006

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


          Northern  Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies
Visit http://www.northernbrewer.com  to show your appreciation!
               Or call them at 1-800-681-2739

    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

  Stone IPA Hops (Bob Tower)
  pH changes during the process ("Fredrik")
  Palmer's nomograph (Fred L Johnson)
  beer (and rum) in Puero Rico ("Peter A. Ensminger")
  Syracuse water ("Peter A. Ensminger")
  Cold conditioning before bottling (Christopher Burian)
  Palmer pH ("A.J deLange")
  Results of the E.T. Barnette Homebrew Competition (Scott and =?iso-8859-1?Q?Ch=E9rie_Stihler?= )

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * The HBD Logo Store is now open! * * http://www.hbd.org/store.html * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Suppport this service: http://hbd.org/donate.shtml * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. HAVING TROUBLE posting, subscribing or unsusubscribing? See the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. LOOKING TO BUY OR SELL USED EQUIPMENT? Please do not post about it here. Go instead to http://homebrewfleamarket.com and post a free ad there. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req@hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning, and Spencer Thomas
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 20:35:06 -0700 From: Bob Tower <bob at constructotower.com> Subject: Stone IPA Hops Grant Stott asked: If anyone knows we would like to know what hops are used in Stone IPA & Full Sail IPA as we couldn't quite figure it out & have been unsuccessful in our brief search on the web. A sales rep at Stone once told me (if memory serves) that they bitter their IPA with Columbus and finish and dry hop with Centennial. They make a big deal about NOT using Cascade. Hope that helps. Bob Tower / Los Angeles, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 10:49:56 +0200 From: "Fredrik" <carlsbergerensis at hotmail.com> Subject: pH changes during the process I don't always take pH readings throughout the process but some brews ago I did. I have a very simple pH meter, but "semi scientific" as it may be, FWIW here is what I found... First, based on the receipe and my alkaline water, I calculated the amount of lactic acid addition I needed and added it all at once. My calculated target was ~5.7 at roomtemp, and while I don't remember the details I think I mashed in for maybe 5-10 mins or so because taking a check. The pH (as measured) was 5.6 at roomtemp. This was close enough so I made no further adjustments. At the end of the mash (pre-boil) the wort pH was 5.4 at roomtemp. So it seems it dropped 0.2 unis from 5 mins into the mash, to pre-boil. (I made not attempts to resolve how much of this has to do with intrisic proceses, or what has to do with lautering water, neither do I at this point rememeber if I acidified the lautering water further or not. I usually use a thinner mash, and less sparge water.) At the end of the boil, the wort pH was 5.3 at roomtemp. Then then final beer pH after fermentation is around 4.3 which is the case for most of my all malt beers. (The clear exception I've found is that *large amounts* of sugar tend to lower the beer final pH.) /Fredrik Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 06:46:27 -0400 From: Fred L Johnson <FLJohnson52 at nc.rr.com> Subject: Palmer's nomograph John Palmer clarified for me how to use his nomograph. The nomograph is an estimate of your mash pH, at room temperature, if you were mashing Base-Malt-Only. The color scale is an indication of the beer styles you should brew, based on your base malt mash pH. If your water gives you an RA of 100, then you should brew a dark beer to get the mash pH to turn out in the proper 5.1-5.5 range. The RA and the dark malts balance to create the right mash pH. If your RA was -20, then you need to brew light beers because dark malts will make your mash pH too acidic, dropping you below the ideal mash pH range of 5.1-5.5. Fred L Johnson Apex, North Carolina, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 10:45:31 -0400 From: "Peter A. Ensminger" <ensmingr at twcny.rr.com> Subject: beer (and rum) in Puero Rico Greetings, Just returned from a trip to Puerto Rico. Several HBD'rs advised me to avoid the beer (unless I like "Medalla Light" and its ilk) and go for the "Ron del Barrilito 3-Star" rum. Well, I picked up a bottle of 3-Star ~1 hr after arriving for a mere $15. I'm not much of a rum drinker, but I really enjoyed the stuff. Bought another bottle before leaving for home so I can enjoy it here in Syracuse. In addition to all the light beer, there's also a relatively new brewpub in Old San Juan: Old Harbor Brewery and Steak House (opened in Aug 2005). They have a glitzy web site at: "http://www.oldharborbrewery.com/intro.php" I had a 5-beer sampler. Here are my impressions: Munich Helles: very good Pilsner: very good Pale Ale: excellent Stout: very good Belgian Golden (seasonal): underwhelming Overall, I would suggest a visit to this brewpub for a meal and a few beers next time you're in the San Juan area. Cheers! Peter A. Ensminger Syracuse, NY Apparent Rennerian: [394, 79.9] Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 11:50:09 -0400 From: "Peter A. Ensminger" <ensmingr at twcny.rr.com> Subject: Syracuse water Greetings, I just got a water report for Syracuse, NY. Our water comes from nearby Skaneateles Lake. In case anyone is interested, here is the relevant data: Total Dissolved solids: 160 mg/l Sodium: 8.5 mg/l Alkalinity: 100 mg/l pH range: 7.15-8.15 Total hardness: 120 mg/l Sulfate: 11.75 mg/l Cheers! Peter A. Ensminger Syracuse, NY Apparent Rennerian: [394, 79.9] Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 17:28:46 -0400 From: Christopher Burian <cburian at burian.net> Subject: Cold conditioning before bottling Hi, On Saturday (three days ago) I bottled the first batch of ale that I've cold conditioned. After 1 week in the bucket at 70F and two weeks in the carboy at 70F, I put the carboy in a refrigerator at 42F for two weeks, for clarifying. I used 5 oz bag of 'priming sugar' boiled in a pint of water in bottling bucket (first time for sugar, I usually use Kreamyx). After three days, I have no silt at all in the bottom of the bottles. Normally by 48 hrs I've got a pretty good layer in the bottom. This could be from using sugar instead of Kreamyx, but the lack of anything is a surprise--I thought that silt was yeast, not Kreamyx. Anyway, I will crack the first bottle two weeks from now and see if it's fizzy, but curious about this issue. Gotta pour a homebrew and stop worrying... Also with lagers, is this going to be a problem, esp. since they are bottom-fermenting? Do lagers have to be re-pitched at bottling time with champagne yeast (as I think I've read somewhere on the internet)? Oh, and besides the cold-conditioning first, it was also my first batch that I dry-hopped, with 2 oz of whole leaf cascade. Ouch! I was only able to siphon out about 3.5 gallons from my carboy out of 5. That hurt! I will only use pellets in the future, and I'm surprised that I never read any warnings from anybody that a third of my beer is going to stay stuck in the carboy, soaked up in the petals. :( Thanks, Chris Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 22:35:50 +0000 From: "A.J deLange" <ajdel at cox.net> Subject: Palmer pH I haven't seen the book but this is what John was intending to say on the subject as of last January: "Let me state the goal right up front: for best results, the mash pH should be 5.1 to 5.5 when measured at mash temperature, and 5.4 to 5.8 when measured at room temperature. (At mash temperature the pH will measure about 0.3 lower due to greater dissociation of the hydrogen ions.) When you mash 100% base malt grist with distilled water, you will usually get a mash pH between 5.7 to 5.8 (measured at room temperature)." I hope he will forgive me for chiming in here but I know he is in the middle of moving and perhaps not getting or reading HBD but more probably is simply to busy to respond right now. The 0.3 offset comes right out of DeClerck. And yes, I think most of the published data are measured at laboratory temperature simply because when brewers started doing pH measurements it was necessary to transport the sample back to the laboratory where the cumbersome, delicate equipment required to measure pH was located. I would advise everyone to do it this way simply because the stresses on you pH electrode are very much reduced if the shock of going from room to mash and back to room temperature can be avoided and your electrode will last longer. As to what the proper pH should be remember that the Catholic University at Louvaine (where DeClerck taught - his son runs the "DeClerk Chair" which organizes these things) held a 3 day conference entitled "The pH Paradox" about 2 years ago. In case anyone misses the point the paradox is that there is no single ideal pH value. A.J. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 15:44:04 -0800 From: Scott and =?iso-8859-1?Q?Ch=E9rie_Stihler?= <stihlerunits at mosquitobytes.com> Subject: Results of the E.T. Barnette Homebrew Competition Please join me in congratulating Rob Beck for winning the Best of Show prize of $500 in this year's E.T. Barnette Homebrew Competition! His American Pale Ale was a wonderful example of the style. There were a total of 54 entries from 14 states. Entries came from as far away as Hawaii, Alabama, Georgia, and Florida. For complete details regarding this event please go to the following URL: http://www.mosquitobytes.com/Den/Beer/Events/ETB2006/ETB2006.html I'd like to once again congratulate Rob Beck for a job well done! Cheers, Scott Stihler Fairbanks, Alaska Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 07/18/06, by HBD2HTML v1.2 by KFL
webmaster@hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96