HOMEBREW Digest #5236 Tue 02 October 2007

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  Batch Sparging Gravities ("LANCE HARBISON")
  Blacklists vs. Your Daily HBD ("Patrick Babcock")
  Temperature mishap ("Gus Iverson")
  Heatsticks and Popped GFIs ("Pete Calinski")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2007 16:15:06 -0500 From: "LANCE HARBISON" <harbison65 at verizon.net> Subject: Batch Sparging Gravities Years ago I accidentally created a 2.5 gallon batch of sour stout. It happened when I discovered the day after brewing that I had 2.5 gallons of 1.037 wort still in my mash tun (that which had drained down over night). I boiled and fermented this and the resulting beer had a pleasant sour twang. I would like to re-create the sour beer. For my next batch I would like to perform a batch sparge in which the first runnings would be for the creation of 10 gallons of imperial stout. I would then allow the mash to sit over night. The next day I would perform the second sparge of the soured mash. Since my fermenter will be busy with the IS I am planning on sparging into two cornies. The cornies would then be placed into my fridge. On the day that I keg the IS (approximately four weeks later) I will boil and cool the contents of the two cornies and will pitch the harvested yeast from the IS. I have never done batch sparging which leads to a couple of questions: Assuming that my grain bill is consistant with an original gravity of 1100 for 20 gallons what likely would be the OG of the 10 gallons of IS (I typically get 75-80% efficiency during fly sparging)? What could I expect for the OG of the second runnings (that is, should I expect to need to add DME to bring up the gravity)? Lance Harbison Pittsburgh Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 12:21:53 -0400 (EDT) From: "Patrick Babcock" <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: Blacklists vs. Your Daily HBD Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... Ah! I *LOVE* those people who, instead of following the simple unsubscribe instructions provided in each HBD, choose to complain that we are SPAMMING them to their ISP... The October Probe reveals that if you are on worldnet.att.net (or any variant thereof), you must contact them to get hbd.org/ off their abuse list. They have a form for me to use; however it is screwed up, and I'm done fighting with it. Also, if you use one of those antiSPAM services (like eartlink's) that responds with a request that a link be clicked through, be sure to add probe at hbd.org to your whitelist. The PROBE system assumes that, if you aren't receiveing the probe message, you aren't receiving the HBD, either, and deletes your subscription. Finally, add probe at hbd.org to your "non-responders" for any vacation program you may be running. I have written it to recognize any out-of-office type reponses, but it is not unlikely that you can come up with one it hasn't "seen". Best strategy is to just prevent your vacation mail program from reponding to *any* hbd.org addresses. See ya! Pat Babcock Chief of Janitorial Services Home Brew Digest, Inc. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 11:08:56 -0700 From: "Gus Iverson" <gus.iverson at gmail.com> Subject: Temperature mishap So, my wife was trying to be helpful while I was at work... I brewed two beers last weekend, a stout and a lager style which I am fermenting with the steam beer yeast strain. The stout is using the dry english ale yeast, both from white labs. The stout had dropped down to 62 degrees in the garage yesterday which I noticed on my way out to work. I didn't have time to stop and my wife offered to help out with it during the day. She put on a neoprene jacket I got from BB&B and heater and hooked it up to the temperature controller. So... the probe wasn't put in the beer, rather it was next to it. And she put it on the lager, not the stout. Net result, the lager was up to about 78* yesterday evening. The stout was at 61. I rectified the situation and the lager is now down to 65 as of this morning. Fermentation took off last night after the heat event. What I'm wondering is what the likely effects of this heat event are. Certainly off flavors and such but since many people start fermenting warm and then cool the beer off, is this really a crisis? Krausen did not form until overnight when the beer had already dropped below 74* on its way to 65* this AM on a gentle slope (it is probably 58* - 62* or so in my garage right now). TIA for any input. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 15:15:33 -0400 From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski at adelphia.net> Subject: Heatsticks and Popped GFIs Well I brewed the other day and I think I identified one thing that can cause a GFI to blow. It was an accumulation of crud on the plug and it bridged across the terminals. I was about half way into the mash and heating the sparge water when one of my GFIs popped. There had been a recent discussing on the subject and I had put forth the theory that perhaps it was moisture condensing in the GFI. I have had GFIs pop before and when I opened up the heatstick I could find no sign of any leakage. Since usually they popped during the boil, I expected to find some caramelized wort inside. Since I didn't, I concluded the heatstick didn't leak so the leakage current must have occurred elsewhere. Well, to test this theory, when the GFI popped I decided to swap GFIs. I removed the failed heatstick from the failing GFI and plugged it into another GFI. That one popped also so obviously the failure was associated with the heatstick. I looked at the plug of the heatstick and there was a collection of "crud" (technical term) around the terminals. I just took a couple of swipes at it with a screwdriver and plugged it back in. Frankly I didn't expect that to have any effect; I was just cleaning up a little. Well, the GFI didn't pop. In fact, I continued to use that heatstick in that same GFI for the rest of the mash, sparge, and boil. It never popped again. Later I inspected it more carefully and couldn't find any evidence of a carbon trace or other conductive substance. I guess what had happened is the crud was there but did not conduct at first. Then, as the moisture in the air accumulated it became wet and conducted enough to trip the GFI. This doesn't refute the fact that heatsticks can leak. It just says there can be other causes also. Pete Calinski East Amherst NY Near Buffalo NY http://hbd.org/pcalinsk Return to table of contents
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