HOMEBREW Digest #5239 Wed 17 October 2007

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  Re: Homebrew Digest #5237 (October 16, 2007) (Dean)
  Subject: Gasket material for a conical ("Doug Lasanen")
  Diacetyl ("A.J deLange")
  Re: Gasket material for a conical (stencil)
  Re: Starter without DME (Calvin Perilloux)
  re: Diacetyl, how can i get rid of it ("steve.alexander")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 08:55:50 -0700 From: Dean <dean at deanandadie.net> Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #5237 (October 16, 2007) > Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2007 21:41:01 -0500 > From: "Gary Smith" <Gary at doctorgary.net> > Subject: Gasket material for a conical > > I've got a 12.2 gal stainless conical and there's a dome cover for > it. The ID is 16" and the width of the top flange is about 1/2". ... > Any suggestions what I might be able to find that woill be good for > this? The existing material is black neoprene looking material, > almost firm as a tire and it is very poor as a gasket. > > Thanks, > > Gary Hi Gary, I suggest you check out McMaster (http://www.mcmaster.com/) They have a dizzying selection of products, including all kinds of gaskets. - --Dean - -- Unscrambler of eggs [3265.6k, 273.2deg] Apparent Rennerian - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- i am become def, the mixer of words I must obey the inscrutable exhortations of my soul Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 07:40:46 -0400 From: "Doug Lasanen" <Dlasanen at fuse.net> Subject: Subject: Gasket material for a conical Gary Smith is looking for a suitable Lid gasket for a conical fermentor..... I happen to own a Ferminator.......I would think that that gasket should work. You may have to cut it down to the proper diameter. Another suggestion would be what I used to do when I flew R/C airplanes, many years ago. Place a bead of silicone on the top surface of the fermentor. Carefully place a piece of waxed paper on top, trying not to smear the silicone. Next, lightly and carefully, place the lid on top. Do not apply pressure, just the weight of the lid should be sufficient. Allow to set for 24 hours and then remove. The waxed paper will peal right off and the silicone makes a perfect seal that will stay attached to the top of the fermentor. Good Luck! Cheers! Doug Lasanen Bloatarian Brewing League Cincinnati, Ohio Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 12:12:41 +0000 From: "A.J deLange" <ajdel at cox.net> Subject: Diacetyl Interesting that diacetyl has come up as it just received some bad press in the last week or so. It seems that the first consumer of artificially flavored popcorn has come down with the same brochial disease that workers in plants that make the stuff frequently suffer from. This guy was a popcorn junky and ate many bags of microwave popcorn per day. Makes you wonder why the kids that work in movie theatres arent sickened. But on to beer. The best bet for getting it out of beer would, I'm guessin, be to warm up the beer and innoculate it with a goodly dose of kreuzen beer from another batch. This is one of the techniques used for its reduction and though it is usually done at the end of the fermentation I don't see why it shouldn't work just as well after several weeks as long as the temperature is high enough. Any method that gets young working yeast into the beer should do as well. You could probably stir in some malt or even priming sugar and reinnoculate with the same or a different yeast strain. A.J. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 09:34:51 -0400 From: stencil <etcs.ret at verizon.net> Subject: Re: Gasket material for a conical in HOMEBREW Digest #5237 Tue 16 October 2007 Gary Smith wrote: > > > I need something spongy for a gasket or at least compressable so the > gasket will seat on the top & bottom of the mating flanges of the > bodt & lid. > Use aquarium-grade RTV rubber calk to form the gasket on the body flange; use tape as appropriate on the edges of the flange to form a dam ; use keg lube or K-Y as a release agent on the lid; razor-trim after it cures. You'll want to ensure that the flange is very clean - an acetone wipe would not be uncalled-for. gds, stencil - ------------ email by Mozilla Thunderbird on Kubuntu Linux 7.04 Feisty. ThinkPad A22m "Amaury" - ------------ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 08:02:15 -0700 (PDT) From: Calvin Perilloux <calvinperilloux at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Starter without DME Craig Cottingham mentions using wort from a brew session for making a starter, and he's not sure if he can recommend it 100%. I have no such qualms, Craig! I use that method occasionally. If I have extra wort left over, generally from a modest-OG, modestly-hopped pale wort, I'll dilute the excess down to about 1030-1035 OG, put the resulting wort in canning jars, and process them as if I were canning... I dunno... say, sauerkraut. That is, sanitise the jars and lids before filling, and after filling them then boil 20+ minutes in a hot water bath. I've even pressure-canned some of these, but the wort does get quite dark doing that; these might be good starters for beers like brown ale and porter, but not for pilsners. Keep in mind that pressure canning is the way to go if you don't want to refrigerate your canned wort. That's because fresh wort is very close to the pH margin for safety when it comes to boiling-water-bath canning and clostridium (botulin) problems. Therefore, I keep the jars in the cold part of the fridge after that instead of leaving them at room temperature where random spores might slowly develop. (I have yet to see any info on whether hops would add a further inhibiting factor here, pushing the pH border higher than 4.6. Would be interesting to know for sure.) It is conceivable that I could try to reduce the wort pH slightly with acid adjustments to get to 4.6 or less, which is the point where pressure canning is not required for long term stability. I haven't measured my pH on my wort samples with enough accuracy to tell, nor do I know what effect a modest drop in pH might do to a starter culture, so I haven't tried that yet. Maybe one day when I'm bored. Calvin Perilloux Middletown, Maryland, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 20:55:24 -0400 From: "steve.alexander" <-s at roadrunner.com> Subject: re: Diacetyl, how can i get rid of it Keith Anderson asks ... > Made my first lager with Wyeast 2206 and fermented ~50F degrees until > it slowed down, racked to kegs (10 gallons), and then dropped to ~32F > over a few days. Everything went great, the beer finished up ~1.012 > but now smells like microwave popcorn. It has been sitting at ~32F > for about 5 weeks. > > Does it need to lager longer to get rid of the diacetyl? I didn't > perform a diacetyl rest because i didn't see any dire warnings about > WY2206. I can wait another month or two but don't want to tie up the > fridge if time will not remove the diacetyl. Don't know if some > priming sugar would help it ferment out the offending flavor or if > time is my only hope. > > In general, does a diacetyl rest at 60F degrees reduce lagering time? > Will an extended (>4 weeks) lagering time make up for no diacetyl > rest? Diacetyl is removed by yeast metabolism, so if the yeast is mostly removed or the temp is too cold they yeast fail to clean up their mess. More storage cannot help much, assuming the yeast is mostly gone. There are two possible solutions. There are commercially available enzymes which will remove the diacetyl quite effectively. Lacking these enzymes the only good solution is to re-ferment in a secondary fermentation. That is you must add a kreusen addition of wort&yeast and allow it to ferment out again. Roughly 10% more wort is the typical addition. (and yes - I'd perform a Ruh storage/diacetyl rest). Yeast actively regulate he diacetyl level, so even this modest yeast complement will clean up your beer. Yes it's a nuisance, but FWIW the best HB lagers I've ever had a kreusen secondary ferment like this. -S Return to table of contents
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