HOMEBREW Digest #5257 Thu 15 November 2007

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  fast starts ("Jason Bryant")
  Re: ball valve sanitization (Kai Dambergs)
  RE: ball valves ("Mike Sharp")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 10:49:20 -0500 From: "Jason Bryant" <bryantj2 at asme.org> Subject: fast starts I'm going from memory here, but I seem to have gotten faster starts before I started aerating with O2. When I started brewing last year I did the old shake method after pitching to aerate the wort. I'll have to check my notes, but I think I started to see bubbling at around 8 hours. Since then I've aerated inline with air or used O2 with a stone. When I pitch my yeast I just throw it in the bucket and put the lid on. I don't see bubbling for at least 12-18 hours now. I've always used Whitelabs vials without starters. Does anyone else think that shaking up the yeast and wort speeds up the process? I'll try the shake method the next time I brew and see what happens. Jason Norfolk, VA Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 01:14:01 +0900 From: Kai Dambergs <goodbyesoberday at gmail.com> Subject: Re: ball valve sanitization I use three-piece ball valves anywhere where I think contamination is an issue (ie from the kettle onwards). They can be taken completely apart and give them a thorough clean whenever necessary. I've attached a link to a photo of my kettle's valve, bulkhead fitting and pickup completely disassembled for illustration. A 3-piece valve costs me anywhere from $15-$50AUD. http://bb.mafmods.com/hotquickandthick/cleaning/tap.jpg Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 12:33:37 -0200 From: "Alexandre Carminati" <afcarminati at gmail.com> Subject: ball valve sanitization Some days ago I have posted an email regarding about "sour bottled beer". I had so many hints on what to investigate and I came to an obnoxious cleaning problem: How to clean efficiently metalic (non SS) ball valves? They seem to be clean, but when you open and close them, some kind of dirtness (contamined yeast I supose) comes from inside the teflon around the ball. My cleaning process includes a hot 2% NaOH solution bath and a spray of peracetic acid afterwards. I am wondering to replace these metal valves for plastic ones and discard them immediatelly after use. Does anyone knows a cheapest way to solve this issue? Cheers Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 07:04:44 -0800 From: "Mike Sharp" <rdcpro at hotmail.com> Subject: RE: ball valves Alex asks about ball valve sanitization "I am wondering to replace these metal valves for plastic ones and discard them immediatelly after use. Does anyone knows a cheapest way to solve this issue?" I've always disliked ball valves in fermenters because of this. In the "real" beer and wine industry, they use sanitary butterfly valves. Yes, they're expensive to buy initially, but they're cleanable. You only need one, though, unless you have valves for racking. You can get them for less than a hundred bucks, but it's still a pile of money. Mounting one is tricky, unless you have a stainless conical and a welder who can tig weld a ferrule in the bottom. Threaded fittings have the same issue, though, so IMO it would be a waste of money to buy a nice sanitary ball valve, and then hook it up to a threaded fitting on the fermenter. Some ball valves might be easy enough to dismantle each time for cleaning. You can also use a clear beverage hose, doubled up and clamped, as a valve, if you don't have to worry about pressure. Regards, Mike Sharp Kent, WA [1891.3, 294deg] AR Return to table of contents
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