HOMEBREW Digest #5292 Tue 05 February 2008

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  RE: Marzen (and soft water) ("Brian Lundeen")
  RE:  My pilsner pooped out ("William C. Tobler")
  Pils pooped out (leavitdg)
  RE:  My pilsner pooped out ("David Houseman")
  RE: Pilsner poop-out ("Rich Lynch")
  Overnight Mash (Leo Vitt)
  Re: My pilsner pooped out (Robert Tower)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 00:07:26 -0600 From: "Brian Lundeen" <blundeen at mts.net> Subject: RE: Marzen (and soft water) > Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2008 06:59:30 -0500 > From: leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu > Subject: Marzen (and soft water) > > Greg Noonan, in Brewing Lager Beer, suggests hard water when > brewing a Vienna Lager. What do you think the consequences > would be, in terms of the final flavor, if you used softer/ > Pilsen, rather than harder water? > Hi Darrell, I would like to put this whole water treatment thing into perspective, as I see it, IMHO, so to speak. If I load up BreWater, and run the Wizard to convert Pilsen water to Vienna water, I come up with roughly two teaspoons of Chalk and two teaspoons of Epsom Salts needed for the amount of water used for a 5 gallon batch. Let's break this down even further. In a glass of water, this amounts to about 1/10th of a gram of Epsom Salts, a tad less for the chalk. Do you think that is a significant amount? Of course, you should probably check NEW Brewing Lager Beer to make sure he still believes this to be true. I mean, the 10 years from 1986 to 1996 brought a lot of changes to the world of lager brewing. I'm surprised 2006 didn't see the release of Really, Really New Lager Brewing. Seriously, what do you need to say about lager brewing that can't be summed up in 5 words? Pitch big, ferment cold, duh! Nothing Noonan has written has impressed me as being anything more than self-serving gobble-de-gook. Now, if this doesn't liven up the old HBD with a torrent of counter-points, I don't know what will. ;-) Cheers Bwian Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 05:55:15 -0600 From: "William C. Tobler" <wctobler at comcast.net> Subject: RE: My pilsner pooped out Rich said he had a problem with his Pils, > I wondering how I can rescue my first attempt at making a pilsner. I > used WY2007 and after a 3 week or so fermentation, I bottled the 5 > gallon batch with 3/4 cup of corn sugar. After 2 weeks at 40F the beer > has achieved literally *no* carbonation, and has a sweet corn > (diacetyl or just the bottling sugar?) taste, which isn't horrible Rich, I think your problem is trying to carbonate the beer at 40 degrees F instead of at room temp. Even though this is a lager, the carbonation needs to be done at room temperature. The yeast will just not work at 40 degrees. Put your bottles at room temp in a closet somewhere for a few weeks, and give them a good shake one or two times in the first week. You should be ok. As far as the corn taste, it sounds like it may be DMS, which has a corn like flavor. Diacetyl has more of a buttery taste. Check out my post from yesterday on a great link on diacetyl. The DMS can come from the malt (German pilsner malt), yeast or bad boiling practice. (Boiling with the lid on, or even covering the wort with a lid post boil while chilling) I would just give it some time and see what happens. Bill Tobler Lake Jackson, TX (1129.2, 219.9) Apparent Rennerian Brewing Great Beer in South Texas Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2008 07:16:40 -0500 From: leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu Subject: Pils pooped out "After 2 weeks at 40F...." The Wyeast site says : Temperature Range: 48-56F, 9-13C I think that you should raise the temp, perhaps to 60F, see if they carbonate, and if not, then add the yeast. Let's see what others suggest. Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2008 07:35:31 -0500 From: "David Houseman" <david.houseman at verizon.net> Subject: RE: My pilsner pooped out Rich, Let the bottled lager warm to room temperature for several weeks. I've found that giving the bottles some agitation to get any settled yeast back into solution helps as well, so I've inverted the bottles occasionally during the period of carbonation. If this doesn't work you can carefully open each bottle and put in a few grains of dried yeast. But then ferment at room temperature, not 45F. David Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 08:50:12 -0500 From: "Rich Lynch" <rlny7575 at gmail.com> Subject: RE: Pilsner poop-out Thanks to everyone for the great responses, I will follow the collective advice given, and allow my pilsner to bottle condition at ~65F. If *that* doesnt' fix the carbonation/diacetyl problem ( I don't think DMS is a problem, I gave it a vigorous boil, didn't cover etc.) I will drop a little S-23 yeast in each and hold at 65F as someone suggested. On bringing these up to a warmer temperature: I believe I can just pull those bottles out of the 40F fridge and let them warm to 65F (my ambient room temp) over the course of a day with no problems right? Or at least, I thought I read that here once.. Thanks everyone! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 12:08:45 -0800 (PST) From: Leo Vitt <leo_vitt at yahoo.com> Subject: Overnight Mash I have read postings about overnight mashes off and on for years. I finally did one last weekend. With some activities scheduled Satuday afternoon, and more on Sunday, I felt this was the way to get a beer made. I used the oven to hold a steady temp, with the temp set to warm. The mash went in at 154 and came out in the morning at 142 F. I did not know what to expect for the end temp. Now, I have an idea. It seemed easy enough. Now, I need the beer to finish to be able to evaluate results. Leo Vitt Sidney, NE Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2008 15:06:58 -0800 From: Robert Tower <roberttower at sbcglobal.net> Subject: Re: My pilsner pooped out Rich Lynch is having problems getting a pilsner he bottled to condition and is wondering what to do. I've had this happen a few times over the years. Rich already has the right ideas, but I think in the wrong order. First, I would warm the bottles to room temperature 68+ F. (20+ C.) and wait 1-2 weeks. Make sure the bottles are not sitting on the ground as you'll be fooled into thinking it's warmer than it actually is (sometimes asmuch of a difference as 10-15 F. when compared to waist height air temperature). Open a bottle after a week to see if you're getting *any* carbonation. If not, don't worry, give it another week. If after two weeks you've got nothing then you'll need to dose each bottle with some dry lager yeast. S-23 is a good choice, but still keep the bottles at the warm temperature. S-23 becomes *very* sluggish when the temperature drops below 53 F. (12 C.). In fact, I always bottle condition my lagers at room temperature. The little bit of fermentation (usually about 3 points of specific gravity) at room temperature isn't going to contribute any significant esters to skew a pilsner's flavor profile. Also, no need to rehydrate the yeast, just drop a little bit in each bottle. Cut the top off the yeast sachet and scoop some out with the smallest teaspoon you can find (an 1/8 tsp works good) and with the spoon over the lip of the bottle tap the spoonwith your index finger to knock some of the dry yeast into the bottle. You'll probably end up with yeast leftover. It kills me to waste yeast (oranything for that matter) so I try to evenly distribute they whole sachet over the number of bottles I have. This is overkill to a great degree when you consider that if there is no viable yeast in your beer you'd onlyneed about 2 grams to condition 5 gallons (20 liters) of beer (a sachet of S-23 is 11.5 grams). But as a wise man once said "Overkill: it's the only way to live!" Bob Tower / Los Angeles, CA Return to table of contents
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