HOMEBREW Digest #5369 Mon 14 July 2008

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  Conicals, Music ("A.J deLange")
  more on conicals (Starkbier)
  Re: Chloramine and Campden Tablets (Dana Edgell)
  Re: New to Homebrewing (Tim Bray)
  Bimetal Thermometer Calibration ("Dave Larsen")
  30th Annual California Homebrew Competition ("Mike Riddle")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 08:38:33 -0400 From: "A.J deLange" <ajdel at cox.net> Subject: Conicals, Music I have 2 barrel cylindroconicals which I fill to 1.5 bbl and I do notice strong circulation during fermentation. This is a great benefit as it keeps the yeast in suspension and makes for a short, vigorous ferment. Where it is not a benefit is when you want to keg. Even after the yeast floculate the circulation keeps a fair amount in suspension. What I usually do to try to beat this is bring the temperature down to close to freezing and then shut off the refrigeration loop a few days before kegging. The insulation is good enough that the beer is still relatively cool after 2 - 3 days and during this time the rest (or most of the rest) of the yeast have chance to drop into the cone. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * As for music during brewing I usually listen to Bach. I got the whole BWV for about $135 which is amazing (less than a buck a disc) and, as a review said "there are few disappointments". Ther is usually some piece of equipment running which makes too much noise to hear it very well so I often don't bother to put any thing on but when I do it's JSB. A.J. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 07:20:04 -0700 (PDT) From: Starkbier <starkbier at yahoo.com> Subject: more on conicals Lance mentions how he cleans his conical using a SS bar: <Using a piece of thin stainless sheet I scrape off... I just want to note that you really dont want to use any abrasion system that can scratch your conical. Using a SS sheet to scrape off krausen of a SS tank can cause scratching that will tend to be a capture/build up point for subsequent dirt/protein/trub buildup. So stick with CIP systems and plastic scrubbies and you should be fine. You always want to scrub with something that is softer then your base metal. Cheers, Jim Busch Colesville, Md Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 13:54:58 -0400 From: Dana Edgell <dedg at lle.rochester.edu> Subject: Re: Chloramine and Campden Tablets A.J. writes ... > So if your goal is to dechlorinate/dechloraminate AND deoxygenate then > observe that it takes 2 Campden tablets per 5 gallons to get the oxygen > out and 1/4 Campden tablet (per 5 gallons) to get the > chlorine/chloramine at the normal maximum level of 3 mg/L. Thus if you > dose with 2 tablets per 5 gallons you will certainly get all the > chlorine/chloramine and most of the oxygen. Add the extra quarter tablet > if you like. Note that there is no reason to deoxygenate mash, sparge or > kettle makeup water. It is important to deoxygenate water used to dilute > beer after fermentation and before bottling. If I add 1/4 Campden tablet to 5 gal cold tap water does it attack the chlorine or oxygen first or does it do both partially? I have been adding Campden tablets to my tap water in the HLT before heating. Should I switch to adding it to the heated water which will have little oxygen to compete for the campden tablet's effects? Thanks, Dana Edgell Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 11:10:31 -0700 From: Tim Bray <tbray at wildblue.net> Subject: Re: New to Homebrewing Delurking to reply to Daniel's questions, and some of the responses. Like most, I wouldn't recommend getting too carried away with equipment until you brew a few batches. By that time two things will happen: You will start to get a feel for the process, thus identifying the equipment that will work best for you; and you will become thoroughly hooked on this most excellent of hobbies. As you've no doubt observed from the discussions, everybody's got their own way of doing things and they all (or almost all) work, so none of us can really tell you whether a conical or a carboy is going to be best for you. It all depends on how you like to do things, and you aren't likely to know the answer to that one until you do it a few times. So start out with the basics, brew a few times, then see where it leads you. Even a carboy is optional; I often do primary fermentation in plastic buckets for 7 to 10 days, then keg directly from the bucket. Buckets are easier to clean but harder to sanitize, compared to a carboy, so it takes a little more care. As for kegs vs bottles, I'm loving the keg life, but it does involve a big increase in equipment and expense. Not only do you need the kegs, the fittings, the gas bottle and regulator and hoses and taps, you also need a fridge. Again, I'd recommend starting out with bottles, get hooked, then move up to kegging if it seems like something you want to do. I will dispute those who say kegging impairs your ability to give away beer or take bottles to parties - just get a counter-pressure bottle filler or BeerGun, and you can bottle clear yeast-free beer and take it to parties the same day. Finally, I strongly dispute the slur on dry yeast. That was true many years ago, but not today. Safbrew, Danstar, Lallemand all make very clean, reliable dry yeast. In fact I assert that dry yeast today is more reliable than liquid yeast. I've never had a slow start or weak ferment with dry yeast, but it has happened several times with liquid. If you have a nearby store that keeps a supply of fresh liquid yeast and rotates their stock, the difference is negligible; but if you have to mail-order it, liquid yeast can get heat-stressed en route and fail on you. If I could only get the San Francisco Lager yeast in dry form I would hardly ever need liquid! Chers, Tim in Albion, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 14:49:38 -0700 From: "Dave Larsen" <hunahpu at gmail.com> Subject: Bimetal Thermometer Calibration I was calibrating a new bimetal thermometer the other day using boiling and ice water. I used boiling water to calibrate the high end of the scale. Water boils in Tucson at 207 degrees F. I used ice water to calibrate the low end of the scale. Ice water is close to freezing, or 32 degrees F. What I found is that the thermometer was off differently from high to low. For instance, if I adjusted my thermometer to read correctly at the low end, it would be off by a degree at the high end, and visa-versa. I guess that one degree is not that bad, but it was quite annoying. I actually had bought two thermometers and only one of them was this way. I actually own a third bimetal thermometer, a Blichmann Brewmometer, and this one does not go low enough to measure the freezing point of water. That is quite annoying, because I cannot calibrate at two points. I only can calibrate at boiling. I guess that that is okay, because when mashing it will be closer to the high end of the scale rather than the low end, but I still wonder if the temperature readings are off high to low like my other bimetal thermometer. Speaking of which, does anybody know a good place to buy a mercury calibration thermometer, at a decent price? The brew shops don't seem to carry those anymore. They only carry the alcohol filled ones, which I've never found to be that accurate. Dave Tucson, AZ http://hunahpu.blogspot.com/ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 16:31:14 -0700 From: "Mike Riddle" <mjriddle1 at comcast.net> Subject: 30th Annual California Homebrew Competition The 30th Annual California State Homebrew Competition will take place on Saturday, November 8th, 2008 at Stern Grove in San Francisco. For details, please click on the competition link on the nchfinfo.org webpage. Return to table of contents
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