HOMEBREW Digest #537 Wed 14 November 1990

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Issue 535 truncation (Rob Gardner)
  all grain 1st timer (mike_schrempp)
  Lactobacillus experiment (ROSS)
  Spent Grain (Spam!)"        (Spam!)        (Spam!)        (Spam!)        (Spam!)        (Spam!)
  5 Gallon Fermenters;Boiling Grains (BAUGHMANKR)
  state limits on alcohol content in beer. (John E. Greene)
  Leaf hops on top (Dan Needham)
  fresh whole hops (Todd Koumrian)
  Mead Recipes (Arun Welch)
  Irish Moss (dreger)
  SAMUEL SMITH'S OATMEAL STOUT (Gerald Andrew Winters)
  results with oak chips (Rick Noah Zucker)
  Grain Usage (Jay Hersh)
  chill haze and spent grains (kevin vang)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Today >From: Rob Gardner Subject: Issue 535 truncation Several people complained that issue 535 was truncated, so I've included the last few articles from 535 is today's issue. Rob Return to table of contents
Date: 12 Nov 90 08:20 -0800 >From: mike_schrempp%29 at hp4200.desk.hp.com Subject: all grain 1st timer Hello out there, I just brewed my first all-grain batch yesterday and I have a few questions that some of you more experienced types might be able to answer. Mash ph: When I measured my mash ph with those damn little papers, it was too low so I added some stuff (sodium bicarbonate, I think, but the stuff Miller says to use to raise the ph). I had a half size batch (for manageability) of Miller's Altbier, and I put in 1 tsp and couldn't get the ph up from 4.9. Is there a trick to using those papers? Are there relatively cheap electronic ph testers out there? Does it sound like I'm doing something wrong? Sparge water ph: Miller reccommends acidifing the sparge water to 5.7 using gypsum. I tried this and couldn't get the ph down (those damn papers again). After od'ing a few gallons of water, I stopped trying to measure the ph and just added 1tsp of gypsum to my 2.5 gallons of sparge water. Again I wondered (not worried) if I did something wrong. "Clear" sparge runoff: What exactally is "clear"? I recycled my runoff many times (probably about 5 times), keeping them heated as Miller suggests. The runoff was always cloudy. Maybe this has something to do with my ph problems. I eventually stopped recycling it and finished my sparge. I had no more trub in my carboy than usual. My mash efficiecny wasn't too good. I was shooting for an OG of 1.047, and I got 1.038 so I added some DME to the boil to beef it up. Was this the wrong thing to do? Whole hops: This was also my first time using whole hops. Should they be broken up? I just threw in the whole cones and they remained whole throughout the boil. Overall, everything went a lot smoother than I expected it would. For anyone wanting to get into all-grain I have two suggestions: 1. Make a half batch. the volumes of mash and wort are manageable (3 gallon boil vs 6 gallon boil). 2. Have some dry malt extract on hand to boost up the gravity in case your mash efficiency wasn't too high. Mike Schrempp Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 90 08:35 EST >From: ROSS at mscf.med.upenn.edu Subject: Lactobacillus experiment Date sent: 13-NOV-1990 08:24:27 I read a suggestion in a previous homebrew digest conerning the addition of a small amount lactobacillus milk during fermentation with the idea of replicating the flavor of some Belgian styles. Has anybody tried this yet? I just tried it with a batch of "Cherries in the Snow". So as not to ruin my whole one gallon batch, I set aside one 16 oz bottle for the lactobacillus experiment. I added one teaspoon of the milk to this bottle and attached an airlock. Shortly thereafter I noticed large clumps of puffy thread-like structures floating at the suface in the bottle. Would this be the lactobacillus? I'm planning to let it go for one week, then rack and cap. Finally, is there any danger involved with a lactobacillus fermentation. Generally, no matter how awful a brew turns out, it won't have any killer poisons. Does the addition of lactobacillus milk change this in any way? --- Andy Ross --- University of Pennsylvania ross at mscf.med.upenn.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 90 09:13:18 EST >From: card at APOLLO.HP.COM Subject: BASIC MEAD RECIPE Jim: I'm brewing a batch now using Cher Feinsteins recipe but I did have a problem in starting fermentation (sprinkle method). My "research" indicates that honey doesn't ferment as easily as beer malt and you should pre-start the yeast. STARTER: \ 1 cup OJ \ 1 cup water / BOILED AND COOLED TO ~ 75F 2 tbs corn sugar / THEN ADD 1 tsp yeast nutrient 1 pkg yeast (Montrechet) Funnel the contents into a qt beer bottle, or Champagne bottle and shake and then seal with an air-lock (I use vodka instead of water) Let this sit ~ 1 day or until fermentation begins and then pitch into your must (watch out for temp differences). Then aerate the must thouroughly. - ----------------------------------------------------------------------- >>>From: microsoft!jamesb at uunet.UU.NET >>>Subject: Mead Recipes >>> >>> >>>Does anybody out there make Mead? >>>I have just been fortunate enough to aquire 24# of Honey and would like >>>to try a couple of meads. >>>Please send any advice and/or horror stories you may have. >>>Any Recipes would be great also. >>> >>>Thanx in advance >>>Jim Broglio >>>Microsoft BASIC MEAD -------------------- Date: Thu, 23 Aug 90 12:30 EST <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< From: CRF at PINE.CIRCA.UFL.EDU Subject: Clarification, re: mead Hi there! A number of people have written to ask me about the amount of honey to use if employing the recipe I posted. It's in there, but I can see where people would miss it. So: 2 pounds of honey for every gallon of mead you wish to make will yield a fairly sweet mead, unless allowed to ferment for a considerable length of time. In that case, the mead will not only be less sweet, it will be much more alcoholic; something to consider. *********************************************************************** CherDate: Wed, 22 Aug 90 08:07 EST From: CRF at PINE.CIRCA.UFL.EDU Subject: Mead info Hi there! I had received a request for info on mead from Mark Leone, and typed up the following, when I got more requests as well as seeing requests posted here. So, to save myself time and trouble, here's that same information. Anyone having any further questions should feel free to contact me. Below is my "basic" mead recipe and technique. As written below, it makes one gallon. What I do is adapt this recipe to meet my current needs, adjusting ingredients as needed. The overall technique remains the same. I generally age several months, then check it out. Aging times will vary with recipe changes and modifications. If it still tastes "rough" after 4 months or so, then I assume it needs a year to age, minimum. If you brew up the recipe precisely as written below, it will be ready to drink in as little as 3 weeks. If you decide you want a book about mead making, I suggest getting Acton & Duncan's book. Although I don't mess around with all the additive ingredients their recipes call for, the recipes are a good source of ideas, ingredient proportions, and probable aging times. About honey: *ALWAYS* try to find a source of fresh, raw honey! Health food stores are a good bet. Avoid pasteurized- and blended-to-death commercial honeys such as SueBee, which are also likely to contain additives. The flavor characteristics of the honey you use will be reflected in the mead you make. Two very popular mead honeys are clover and gallberry. Surprisingly, orange blossom is not particularly popular as a mead honey. About yeast: always use a chablis, sauterne, or other white wine yeast. Montrechet seems to be the yeast of choice. Although generally considered a brew, modern ale yeasts will over-carbonate a mead, leading to glass grenades. I doubt lager yeasts would work at all. So, stick with wine yeast. About bottles: you can use longnecks just fine. I like to use Grolsch bottles for mead, or the big 2 liter swing-top (like Grolsch bottles) Altenmuenster bottles. Finally: I am of course assuming that all equipment used is cleaned and/or sterilized, as appropriate, and shan't insult you by adding instructions to the recipe to do so. BASIC MEAD RECIPE (makes 1 gal): Fill a 1-gal enamel pot 1/4 full of water. Simmer 2-3 whole cloves (lightly cracked), 2 sticks cinnamon (broken up), and 2 slices fresh peeled ginger root to taste. Add 2-4 teaspoons orange peel (to taste; no white) and simmer further, again to taste. Add more water to bring contents of pot to 3/4 full. Bring to a high simmer. Add honey, *stirring constantly*. Keep at a high simmer, skimming off as much of the white scum that forms as possible. If the scum is yellow, turn the heat down. Once no more scum forms, turn off the heat, cover the pot tightly with lid, and leave for 8-12 hours (or overnight). If desired, strain or spoon out the spices first. Pitch the yeast the next morning, straight into the pot. If you want a starter culture, mix the yeast with honey and water the night before, when you cook up your wort. Replace the lid on the pot (the accumulated moisture will act as a seal) and leave for 12 hours. 12 hours later, rack into a gallon jug. It should be full to the base of the neck, but no more. Take a clean square of paper towel (not the outermost sheet), fold it into quarters, cover the top of the jug with it and secure it with a rubber band. This will be sufficient for the krausen stage of fermentation, although of course a regular water lock may be used. If the paper towel gets fouled by the krausen, replace it. Ferment at least 36 hours. The longer it ferments, the dryer (less sweet) the mead will be. If fermenting long enough for the krausen to subside, change to a regular water lock. Once fermentation has proceeded as long as you intend to permit it, place the jug in the refrigerator to shock the yeast and start it settling. Leave for 8-12 hours. Rack into a fresh jug, and replace in the refrigerator for a further 12 hours. If you want a sparkling mead, seal the jug first to allow carbonation to build. If you want a still mead, leave the fermentation lock on. The yeast may be killed off at this point by the addition of 1/2 cup (sometimes more is needed) *100 proof* vodka, or grain alcohol, if need be. (FURTHER NOTE: when I make mead, I don't like it to be too sweet, so I permit fermentation to proceed for a considerable length of time. However, unless you want a *very* sweet mead (in other words, you're willing to use lots of honey to create a situation which will quickly become unfavorable for the yeast), one usually needs to resort to the vodka/grain alcohol trick to get fermentation to stop. ) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 90 16:03:50 EST >From: hplabs!lotus!"LDBVAX!DLANE (Spam!)" (Spam!) (Spam!) (Spam!) (Spam!) (Spam!) Subject: Spent Grain Ken Buswell <kenb at hpsmeng1.rose.hp.com> wrote: > I would like to know what other grain brewers do with there spent grain. > I've been brewing all grain beers for around 10 years now and have > experimented with using the spent grain in things like muffins and bread. Hmm. I never thought of that. What I've been doing is setting it outside to dry, and then when it's dry, putting it in the bird feeder. They love it. Sometimes it's gone before I ever get a chance to put it in the feeder. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dave Lane Lotus Development Corp. dlane at ldbvax.lotus.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 90 18:25 EST >From: BAUGHMANKR at CONRAD.APPSTATE.EDU Subject: 5 Gallon Fermenters;Boiling Grains RE: HBD #535: Kevin Carpenter wonders about using 5 or 7 gallon carboys for primary fermentation. I strongly recommend using 5 gallon carboys so that you get some blow-off. I think you'll find that some of the residual astringency that lingers in the aftertaste of some homebrews will disappear with the blow-off system. If you have any doubts--as I've mentioned before--just scrape some of the brown crud that is left around the top of the primary fermenter and taste it. Hey! Green persimmons do not hold a candle to the bitter, astringency you will taste. We spend a lot of time *AND MONEY* buying the best ingredients, equipment, etc., etc. trying to hone in on the world's perfect beer. Would you buy a couple of Tablespoons of that stuff and add it to your beer if you had the choice? No way!! That's why I've always told new brewers that the age-old debate as to whether one should skim or not is just a pseudo issue. The real question is whether one should skim or use the blow-off method. Personally,I think the blow-off method is both safer (in terms of avoiding the risks of contamination) and more efficient. About a hundred batches ago I tried it and I've never skimmed again. As for the beer or two that you might lose during the blow-off, who cares? I give well over a quarter of my beer away anyway. I don't begrudge a couple of more. Just call it a libation to the gods of beer! They'll appreciate it and imbue you with a sense of relaxing, not worrying... Dan Needham, in the same issue, wondered about boiling blender buzzed grains the last five minutes of the boil. It's my understanding that boiling grains extracts tannins. Tannins are bitter and don't promote smooth beers. I'd advise against it. Boiling grains may also promote the development of phenols. I'm not sure about that one. I'll have to check Malting and Brewing Science and get back to you. Unless, of course, someone else out there in Netland can enlighten us. All this talk of beer has gotten me thirsty...let's see...will it be an ale tonight? Yeah..... Sante' ! Kinney Baughman baughmankr at appstate.bitnet Return to table of contents
Date: 12 Nov 90 08:44:07 PST (Mon) >From: jeg at desktalkdesktalk.com (John E. Greene) Subject: state limits on alcohol content in beer. Dennis Henderson writes: >In California "beer" must be less than 4%. If the alcohol >content is higher then it is either labelled as Malt Liquor >*or* you must have a 'wine/liquor license' to sell it. >Don't know which it is as I have drank/drunk/previously >consumed beer here in California that seemed over 4%. An interesting note here is that "beer" is defined as a lager and that California does not have a limit on the alcohol content of Ale. >Most nationally distributed beers are less than 4% as this >is the level that most states use to define beer. Based on the latest data compliled by the Beer Institute (formerly the United States Brewers Association), the maximum permissible alcoholic contents for beverages sold in the various states is as follows: STATE MAXIMUM PERMISSIBLE ALCOHOLIC CONTENT Alabama 4% by weight, 5% by volume Alaska No limit Arizona No limit Arkansas 5% by weight for most malt beverages California 4% by weight for beer;no limit for ale, etc. Colorado 3.2% by weight except for malt liquor Connecticut No limit Delaware No limit District of Columbia No limit Florida 3.2% in dry counties; no limit elsewhere Georgia 6% by volume Hawaii No limit Idaho 4% by weight in nonstate stores Illinois No limit in most areas Indiana No limit Iowa 5% by weight in nonstate stores Kansas 3.2% by weight except for liquor store package sales Kentucky No limit in most areas Louisiana 6% by volume in most areas;3.2% by weight in dry areas Maine No limit Maryland No limit Massachusetts 12% by weight Michigan No limit Minnesota 3.2% by weight for most malt beverages Mississippi 4% by weight Missouri 3.2% by weight. Exception: 5% or "malt liquor" Montana 7% by weight Nebraska No limit Nevada No limit New Hampshire 6% by volume in nonstate stores New Jersey No limit New Mexico No limit New York No limit North Carolina 6% by volume North Dakota No limit Ohio 6% by weight Oklahoma 3.2% by weight except for liquor store package sales Oregon 4% by weight for beer; 8% by weight for other malt beverages Pennsylvania No limit Rhode Island No limit South Carolina 5% by weight South Dakota 3.2% by weight for "low point beer"; 6% by weight for "high point" Tennessee 5% by weight for most malt beverages Texas 4% by weight for "beer"; no limit for others Utah 3.2% by weight in nonstate stores Vermont 6% by volume in nonstate stores Virginia No limit Washington 8% by weight in nonstate stores and unlicensed establishments West Virginia 4.2% by weight; 6% by volume Wisconsin 5% by weight for most malt beverages Wyoming No limit In order to accommodate the differences in state regulations, most national brands are brewed in two strengths, one at 3.2%, the other as high as 5.0% alcohol by weight. >Bonus Question: How does 'light beer' differ from the 3.2% >beer? Light beers range from 2.4 to 3.2% by weight. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- John E. Greene Sr. Staff Engineer Desktalk Systems Inc. uucp: ..uunet!desktalk!jeg internet: jeg%desktalk.desktalk.com at uunet.uu.net Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 90 08:47:46 pst >From: Dan Needham <dann at hpsadlb.hp.com> Subject: Leaf hops on top Full-Name: Dan Needham I used leaf hops in my last batch. All other batches used pellets. The loose leaf hops made it difficult to siphon from the boiling kettle to the primary fermentation vessel. Do most people use cloth bags to contain the leaf hops? I ended up pouring the cooled wort throught the net bag in my sparging bucket. Also I dry hopped with about 1 oz. of leaf hops. I put these in the 7 gal. carboy before the wort. Fermentation is under way and it looks like all or most of the hops are floating on top of the foam head. I don't think much aromatic extraction will happen this way. Again should I use a cloth bag -- with a couple of clean rocks to weigh it down? Maybe I should be satisfied with pelletized hops. I'd like the flexibility to use either. Does anyone know where I can get a few hop plants to grow in my back yard (strings up to the roof ;-))? Cascade would be fine. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 1990 09:49:28 PST >From: todd at NISC.SRI.COM (Todd Koumrian) Subject: fresh whole hops Hmm... Isn't October hop harvesting month? I don't recall any mention of this on the digest. I'd like to get some fresh whole hops for my latest brew, but have discovered that getting good looking ones is a challenge. Isn't there some place called "freshops" or something where I can order them directly from Oregon/Washington? Todd Koumrian Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 90 13:31:25 -0500 >From: Arun Welch <welch at cis.ohio-state.edu> Subject: Mead Recipes Yup, a bunch of us do. Cheryl Feinstein seem to be the net.authority, and I'm sure she'll respond to you, but here's a collection of all the interesting mead stuff from the last couple of months, in uuencoded Babyl format. I just laid in 10 gallons of cyser, which looks like it's gonna be really good. Made up the recipe as I went along, so there's some question, but right now it looks like it'll work: For 5-gallon batch: 4 Gallons fresh cider (no Pot. Sorbate!) 5-6 Lbs honey 1 Gallon water 1 Large stick cinnamon 5 cloves 2 pods cardamom 2 packets Red Star Pasteur Champagne yeast Simmer the spices in the water for 10 minutes, dissolve the honey, simmer and strain the crud till there isn't any more, transfer to primary, along with cider (this should bring the primary to a good pitching temperature), pitch the yeast, wait ~ 1 1/2 weeks for the foam to die down, transfer to secondary (this is fairly tricky, 'cause if you do it too soon, it's gonna blow off). It's still bubbling at a fair rate right now, so it'll probably age in the secondary for 3-6 months, after which I'll bottle it and let it age for a month or three more. begin 600 mead M0D%"64P at 3U!424].4SH*5F5R<VEO;CH at -0I,86)E;',Z"DYO=&4Z(" at 5&AI M<R!I<R!T:&4 at :&5A9&5R(&]F(&%N(')M86EL(&9I;&4N"DYO=&4Z(" at 268 at M>6]U(&%R92!S965I;F< at :70 at :6X at <FUA:6PL"DYO=&4Z(" at (&ET(&UE86YS M('1H92!F:6QE(&AA<R!N;R!M97-S86=E<R!I;B!I="X*'PP*,2PL"E-U;6UA M<GDM;&EN93H at ,C$M36%R(" at ("!#4D9 4$E.12Y#25)#02Y51DPN1415(" C M1F%C<VEM:6QE(&-O;VMB;V]K(&]R9&5R:6YG(&EN9F\*5&\Z(&AO;65B<F5W M)6AP9F-M<D!H<&QA8G,N:' N8V]M"D1A=&4Z(%=E9"P at ,C$ at 36%R(#DP(#$Q M.C(U($535 I&<F]M.B!#4D9 4$E.12Y#25)#02Y51DPN1415"E-U8FIE8W0Z M($9A8W-I;6EL92!C;V]K8F]O:R!O<F1E<FEN9R!I;F9O" at HJ*BH at 14]/2" J M*BH*5&\Z(&AO;65B<F5W)6AP9F-M<D!H<&QA8G,N:' N8V]M"D1A=&4Z(%=E M9"P at ,C$ at 36%R(#DP(#$Q.C(U($535 I&<F]M.B!#4D9 4$E.12Y#25)#02Y5 M1DPN1415"E-U8FIE8W0Z($9A8W-I;6EL92!C;V]K8F]O:R!O<F1E<FEN9R!I M;F9O" at I(:2P at 06QL(0H*26X at <F5S<&]N<V4 at =&\ at <F5C96YT('%U97)I97, at M<F5G87)D:6YG(&AO=R!T;R!O8G1A:6X at <W5C:"!O9B!M>2!S;W5R8V5S(&%S M( I3:7( at 2V5N96QM92!$:6=B>2P at 22!C;VYT86-T960 at 1'(N($1A=FED($9R M:65D;6%N+"!T:&4 at 9V5N=&QE;6%N(&EN('1H92!30T$*=VAO('-E;&QS('AE M<F]X(&-O<&EE<R H;&5G86QL>2!A<G)A;F=E9"UF;W( at 86YD(&-L96%R960I M(&]F('1H92!F86-S:6UI;&4*961I=&EO;G,N("!);B!M86YY(&EN<W1A;F-E M<RP at 1&EG8GD at :6YC;'5D960L($1R+B!&<FEE9&UA;B!I<R!T:&4 at ;VYL>0IA M=F%I;&%B;&4 at <V]U8V4 at 22!K;F]W(&]F+B at 5&AE(&EN9F]R;6%T:6]N(&AE M('-E;G0 at ;64 at =&\ at 8F4 at <&]S=&5D('1O('1H:7, at "F9O<G5M(&%P<&5A<G, at M*F%F=&5R*B!M>2!S:6=N871U<F4 at ;&EN97,N" at I$<BX at 1G)I961M86XG<R!- M:7-C96QL86YY(&ES('9E<GD at ;75C:"!30T$M;W)I96YT960L(&)U="!M87D at M8F4 at ;V8 at :6YT97)E<W0 at =&\ at "G-O;64N("!(:7, at ,BUV;VQU;64 at 8V]L;&5C M=&EO;B!I<R!W:&%T(&-O;G1A:6YS('1H92!C;W!I97, at ;V8 at =&AE(&9A8W-I M;6EL90IC;V]K8F]O:W,L('9O;'5M92!)(&)E:6YG('1H92!O;F4 at =VAI8V at at M8V]N=&%I;G, at 1&EG8GDN( H*26X at 86QL(&AO;F5S='D at 86YD(&9A:7)N97-S M+"!)('1H:6YK($D at <VAO=6QD(&%D9"!T:&%T(&EF('EO=2!P=7)C:&%S92!T M:&4 at "F-O;VMB;V]K(&-O;&QE8W1I;VXL('!L86X at ;VX at 8G5Y:6YG(&$ at ;6%G M;FEF>6EN9R!G;&%S<RX at ($EN('1H92!I;G1E<F5S=', at ;V8 at "F-O<W0M969F M:6-I96YC>2P at 1'(N($9R:65D;6%N(&AA<R!U<V5D(')E9'5C=&EO;B!X97)O M>&EN9R!T;R!G970 at -"!P86=E<R!O9B!A( IF86-I<VEM:6QE(&]N(&]N92!P M86=E(&]F('1H92!C;VQL96-T:6]N+B at 02!M86=N:69Y:6YG(&=L87-S(&UA M:V5S(')E861I;F< at "G1H92!C;VQL96-T:6]N(&UU8V at at 96%S:65R(&]N('1H M92!E>65S+"!A;F0 at :7-N)W0 at =&AA="!M=6-H(&AA<W-L92X*"DEF(&%N>6]N M92!H87, at 86YY(&9U<G1H97( at <75E<W1I;VYS+"!T:&5Y(&UA>2!F965L(&9R M964 at =&\ at 8V]N=&%C="!M92X*" at H at (" at (" at (" at (" at (" at (" at (" at (" at M66]U<G, at :6X at 0V%R8F]N871I;VXL" at H at (" at (" at (" at (" at (" at (" at (" at M(" at (" at (" at (" at (" at ($-H97( at " at H*(E1H92!F:7)S="!C=7 at ;V8 at 8V]F M9F5E(')E8V%P:71U;&%T97, at <&AY;&]G96YY+B( at ("TM("!!;F]N+ at H]/3T] M/3T]/3T]/3T]/3T]/3T]/3T]/3T]/3T]/3T]/3T]/3T]/3T]/3T]/3T]/3T] M/3T]/3T]/3T]/3T]/3T]/3T]/3T]/3T]/3T]/0H*"4-H97)Y;"!&96EN<W1E M:6X at (" at (" at (" at (" at ($E.5$523D54.B at 0U)&0%!)3D4N0TE20T$N549, M+D5$50H)56YI=BX at ;V8 at 1FQA+B at (" at (" at (" at (" at (" at 0DE43D54.B at M0U)&0%5&4$E.10H)1V%I;F5S=FEL;&4L($9," at H*"D=E;G1L97,Z" at I)(&AA M=F4 at <F5C96EV960 at 82!N=6UB97( at ;V8 at ;&5T=&5R<R!A<VMI;F< at 86)O=70 at M=&AE('!R:6-E(&%N9 IA=F%I;&%B:6QI='D at ;V8 at ;W5R($UI<V-E;&QA;GDN M(%1H92!P<FEC92!I<R D-R!P;'5S('!O<W1A9V4N(%EO=2!C86X*96ET:&5R M('-E;F0 at 82!S=&%M<&5D+"!S96QF+6%D9')E<W-E9"!E;G9E;&]P92!O<B!A M;B!E>'1R82!D;VQL87( at <&5R"F-O<'D at 9F]R('!O<W1A9V4 at *'-P96-I86P at M-'1H(&-L87-S+2UP<FEN=&5D(&UA=&5R:6%L*2X at 268 at >6]U('-E;F0*86X at M96YV96QO<&4L(&ET('-H;W5L9"!B92!A="!L96%S=" Y>#$R(&%N9"!H879E M('!O<W1A9V4 at 9F]R(#$U"F]U;F-E<RX*"D9O<B!T:&]S92!O9B!Y;W4 at =VAO M(&AA=F4 at ;F]T('-E96X at =&AE($UI<V-E;&QA;GDL('1H92!C=7)R96YT(" at T M=& at I"F5D:71I;VX at :7, at ,38U('!A9V5S(&QO;F<L('!R:6YT960 at ;VX at ." 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Date: Tue, 13 Nov 90 10:40:24 PST >From: dreger at seismo.gps.caltech.edu Subject: Irish Moss Hi, I just wanted to add that I have been using Irish Moss in almost every batch and have had no problem with head retention. In fact, depending on carbonating pressure the heads I have achieved range from .5 inch to 2 inches of extremely fine bubbled foam. Note, I use extract mash recipes with varying amounts of mash. Now, I have made a somewhat different observation regarding Irish Moss. I typically brew in 7 gal plastic for primary fermentation, using about 5.5 gal of wort. In a batch where I didn't leave the trub behind (trub including Irish Moss). I had an unusually vigorous fermentation, where chunks of Irish Moss and yeast were observed to be actively churning in the wort. This batch eventually blew the large (1.5 foot diameter) lid off the fermenter. Removing the lid usually takes considerable effort on my part. I didn't worry and put the lid back on and the beer turned out great. I am led to believing the Irish Moss is the cause of the vigorous fermentation because my brother had a similar situation in a batch where he left the Irish Moss in the fermenter. I don't believe temperature to be a factor because he typically brews at about 60 F where I brew at 75 to 80 F. As another example, a friend of mine experienced excessive foaming out of the airlock on his 7 gal fermenter (5.5 gal of wort) in a batch in which he left the Irish Moss, though his fermenter's lid didn't blow off. Has anyone else had similar experiences ? I now take care to leave the Irish Moss behind in the brew kettle. Doug Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 90 14:24:53 EST >From: gerald at caen.engin.umich.edu (Gerald Andrew Winters) Subject: SAMUEL SMITH'S OATMEAL STOUT I tried a couple of these brews the other day and liked what I tasted. Has anyone out there tried making a stout with oatmeal? The price on these beers was out of sight, so I feel I have at least 2 good reasons to try and brew the stuff myself. If anyone out there has a good receipe that they could pass along I'd like to hear from you. Also I'm an all grain brewer. thanks, gerald at caen.engin.umich.edu (Gerald Andrew Winters) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 90 11:49:31 -0800 >From: noah at cs.washington.edu (Rick Noah Zucker) Subject: results with oak chips Four to six weeks ago I asked for help in dry hopping and in using oak chips. I got one response on dry hopping and none on oak chips. So, since it seems that no one has experience in this area I thought that I would relate mine. I added an ounce of Saaz hop pellets and an ounce of oak chips to the secondary without any sanitation attempts hoping that the yeast had an insurmountable foothold after a week in the primary (this was suggested to me by local supplier). Since my basement is so cold at this time of year, the secondary fermentation took a week. Not surpri- singly the chips floated on top. However, while siphoning to the bucket from which I bottle (it has a spigot) the chips were a pain in the neck since they kept on clogging the siphon tube. Putting the chips in a hop bag or some cheesecloth might be a good idea. At first the oak flavor was very strong. Now it does not seem quite so strong, but it is still a bit overwhelming. This is supposed to be a pilsner beer. This much oak might be appropriate in something heavier, but here it was too much. It will probably mellow with age though. Next time I will either use fewer chips or add them later. The Saaz nose did not come through very much. Perhaps the honey (2 lb. honey, 6 lb. Alexander's) balanced it too much. A fellow brewer likes it as is but having been to Europe I know true Pilsner Urquell (not what we get here) has much more of a hop nose to go along with its incredible smoothness. Rick Zucker Return to table of contents
Date: 13 Nov 90 10:40:11 EST >From: Jay Hersh <75140.350 at compuserve.com> Subject: Grain Usage To Dan Needham. I disagree. Throwing the grains in the last 5 minutes of the boil will not provide the same effect. If color and flavor are what you are looking for then most people recommend adding the grains to the cold water (cracked for lighter grains either way for darker ones depending on how much color you want) and straining just before the water boils. The steeping method you used will also allow for at least a partial conversion and thus will provide extra fermentable sugars (for unkilned grains, not for Crystal, Chocolate, Black Patent or Roasted). The danger in boiling is that you extract substances from the husk (tannins I believe) which can make the beer astringent. While this is desirable for some stouts and/or porters in general you don't want your beers to be astringent, so I'd advise against boiling. On Blowoff: I used to do 1 stage without blowoff. Now I always use blowoff. I think the beers taste cleaner. From what I understand of yeast chemistry the stuff that gets blown off is intermediate fermentation by products. These substances will eventually consumed by the yeast as food after it runs out of sugars. Yeast has a 2 track metabolism. In the presence of oxygen it does a partial fermentation that releases lots of energy to allow reproduction. After free O2 is depleted it goes to anaerobic fermentation and will consume any remaing sugar and then the remaining intermediate byproducts until all the food is gone. This is why big brewers don't use blow-off techniques. I suggest try it both ways and compare. PS Don't get rid of the 7 gallon carbouy. DO blow off in it and if you rack to a secondary you can leave the sediment behind, otherwise yoiu'll have MORE BEER!! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 90 15:29:44 CST >From: kevin vang <MN033302 at VM1.NoDak.EDU> Subject: chill haze and spent grains re: Using Irish moss to eliminate chill haze I gave up using Irish moss years ago because I had too many problems with it. If you are having problems with chill haze, just put your beer in the refridg- erator for a few days (or sometimes even weeks) before you plan to drink it and the guilty proteins will settle politely to the bottom of the bottle. Or, chill it before you bottle it and you have a nice clear lager beer. re: Spent grains as bird seed I find that the birds in my neighborhood won't touch my spent grains, unless I have brewed a batch of wheat beer. Don't ask me why. Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #537, 11/14/90 ************************************* -------
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