HOMEBREW Digest #5468 Mon 15 December 2008


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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
  Re: Re: Gruit Beer Recipes ("David Houseman")
  RE: Gruit Beer Recipes ("Josh Knarr")
  Hop alternatives. (Joe Katchever)
  More astringency ("Jason Gazeley")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 08:02:41 -0500 From: "David Houseman" <david.houseman at verizon.net> Subject: Re: Re: Gruit Beer Recipes There are a number of beer styles that have very low bittering but balance in other ways. For example Weizens have a low bittering but the yeast derived esters and phenols pleasantly offset the malt. The Berliner Weisse has VERY little bittering but uses lactic acid sourness to create a great drink. Lambics as well have very low bittering. The low gravity Scottish Ale /-60 and Mild are malt accented but still have perceived bitterness so if that's too much then sour would seem to be another alternative to bitter in balancing malt. David Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 08:27:34 -0500 From: "Josh Knarr" <josh.knarr at gmail.com> Subject: RE: Gruit Beer Recipes If you're looking for alt-beers, check out Sacred and Herbal Healing Beers. http://www.amazon.com/Sacred-Herbal-Healing-Beers-Fermentation/dp/0937381667/ Even if you don't subscribe to the notion of homeopathic beer (I subscribe to the notion that alcohol cures everything!) it has a lot of beer recipes well off the beaten path. The format of the book usually goes: 1) History of the herb 2) What it does 3) Original recipes (most of which require using the glossary of definitions to even understand) 4) Modern clone You can find things like mead in there, gruit, melomels, braggots, heather beers, original wintergreen beer from norway who's name escapes me, etc. There's a lot of good or interesting information in there. - -- Stephen Leacock - "I detest life-insurance agents: they always argue that I shall some day die, which is not so." Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 15:56:02 -0600 From: Joe Katchever <joe at pearlstreetbrewery.com> Subject: Hop alternatives. If your friend doesn't like bitterness then don't add so many hops. If they are sensitive to hops then perhaps they have an allergy or just don't like the flavor of hops, although I would find that hard if not impossible to fathom. There's always Bud Light for those who don't like the taste of beer. Try some wormwood. It's bitter as all heck. I made some Absinthe and it is undrinkably bitter. I would use it fresh if possible and very sparingly. It can be had from any nursery type catalog as a decorative plant and as an herb from any herb place. I got mine from Mountainroseherbs.com http://www.mountainroseherbs.com/search/search.php?keywords=wormwood&x=0&y=0 You could also add finishing hops and dry hops to provide good aroma. Cheers, Joe from La Crosse Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 15:11:33 -0700 From: "Jason Gazeley" <jason.gazeley at gmail.com> Subject: More astringency Thanks for the feedback so far. I would like to elaborate on my process a little in hopes that I may get even more helpful information. I use R.O. water and build my mineral profil from scratch based on the color of my mash. For this I use John Palmer's R.A. Spreadsheet. I add minerals to both my mash and my sparge water. I have tried checking the gravity of my final runnings using a refractometer but have found that to be unreliable. I have also tried checking the ph of the final runnings using Color pHast Strips. This also proved unreliable because they are not all that easy to read. I have only just purchesed my first pH meter and have not yet brewed with it. Right now I am operating under the assumption that my astringency problem stems from the rising pH as I get near the end of my sparge. I have tried to solve this problem by creating the same water profile in both my mash and HLT. Unfortunately this didn't work probably because most of my minerals stayed behind in my HLT. It seems like I have three options left. 1. go back to a less aggressive crush because I had no astringency problems then. 2. Go to batch sparging and rely on the buffering power of the grains to maintain acceptable pH 3. Acidify my sparge water. But to what pH? Any other options or comments on my current analysis will surely help me out. Cheers, Jason Return to table of contents
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