HOMEBREW Digest #5480 Mon 05 January 2009

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  Favorite beers (Joseph M Labeck Jr)
  PAA (Evan Kraus)
  Fermcap,  Favorite bee (Glyn and Mary)
  Forced Air Lines ("A.J deLange")
  SKAcomp GABF Pro/Am Qualifier (Dion Hollenbeck)
  re: Need help with setting up my draft system. ("jeff_ri")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2009 02:38:02 -0500 From: Joseph M Labeck Jr <jmlabeck at joesjokearchive.ws> Subject: Favorite beers Hi, all; Jerry asks for our favorites, to give him some brewing ideas. I have three. These are all 4-gal. recipes. Uncle Bill's Porter 4 lb. dark LME 1/4 lb choc. malt 1/4 lb dark crystal malt 1 lb brown sugar 1/3 cup molasses 1 oz. Cascades hops (Bittering) 1 oz. Fuggles hops (Dry-hopped) 1 pkt. dry ale yeast I like the buttery flavor the Molasses gives this one. ======================================== Barb's Crystal Sphere 4 lb LME 1/2 lb choc malt 1 lb brown sugar peel and juice of two oranges 1 tbsp cinnamon 1 oz low-alpha hops (Clusters?) 1 pkt dry ale yeast My version of a "winter warmer". tasty ======================================== Born to be Mild ale 3 lb light LME 1/2 lb choc malt 1 oz 6% alpha hop 1 oz fuggles (finishing, optional) 1 pkt. dry ale yeast I've always considered this a great "lawnmower beer". Hope this helps Joe Labeck Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 05:04:50 -0800 (PST) From: Evan Kraus <ekraus at yahoo.com> Subject: PAA Decided to get back into brewing! Need a source for 1 Gallon of PAA 15% (Parasitic acid). And Liquid Caustic 20% Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 06:09:29 -0800 (PST) From: Glyn and Mary <graininfuser at yahoo.com> Subject: Fermcap, Favorite bee Anyone using Fermacap to keep the yeast from escaping primary? Does it make clean up any easier? My favorite beer, the one in my hand of course! I must say it is a very mood/location question. I generally have no more than two on tap, and various store bought bottles. With that being said if I had to brew just one beer it would be a triple. Not to heavy, fruity, higher alcohol. Would last longer than a Wit or something else. Does not numb your palate with heavy hops. Just my opinion. Glyn S. Middle TN Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 09:17:31 -0500 From: "A.J deLange" <ajdel at cox.net> Subject: Forced Air Lines Let me start off by saying I do not have a forced air system so what I know about them is based on some planning I did when I thought I was going to have to move and swore I'd put the cooler under the dining area if I did (I didn't so I still have to walk down the hall, through the garage and down to the other end of the brewery to get a beer - sigh). Firstly - yes, it is important to keep the beer cold right up to the tap if you can. If part of the lines run through an area warmer than the cooler the beer in those lines will not have time to warm up appreciably while traveling to the faucet from the keg but the beer standing in those lines (referred to in the bar trade as "the night watchman") between servings (i.e. at night, while you are at work etc.) will. At best the CO2 will break out and the first glass drawn will be foamy. At worst the beer will be nasty in other ways as well. The night watchman was often given to derelicts who knew to come round at opening because the regular customers would complain about the quality. BTW, even if you do chill the lines the first glass is likely to be somewhat foamy because there will still be breakout, certainly with a vertical run of 10' simply because the pressure 10' above the keg will be 5 psig lower than it is in the keg but I get it with a vertical run from the keg to a faucet on the walk-in door (head pressure difference from bottom of spear to tap about 1.5 psi). With the beer cold, however, breakout won't be as bad and you won't have any staling from high temperature effects. The usual arrangement in a cold air system is a blower and a pair of coaxial flexible tubes say 2" OD inside a 3 or 4" tube. The beer lines run through the center of the smaller tube through which cold air is blown. The tubing terminates in a cabinet with the faucets through which the cold air from the smaller tube circulates returning to the cooler through the larger, outside tube. Blowers, cabinets and tubing aren't too bad. See http://rapidswholesale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc? Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=ForcedAirSystems to get an idea about prices, configuration etc. Note that there are obviously intended for use with walk-ins, not chest freezers, but I don't see any reason why they couldn't be adapted to chest freezers by drilling the hole for the tubing in the lid (so as to be sure to miss the refrigeration coils) and bolting the blower to the inside of the lid. The more elegant way to go is with bundled beer and glycol lines inside an insulating jacket such as at http://rapidswholesale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen =PROD&Store_Code=RWEC&Product_Code=5R034-10. This requires an external glycol chiller ($$) http://rapidswholesale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc? Screen=PROD&Store_Code=RWEC&Product_Code=3B100 and a tower which while it is less bulky than an air cabinet is also more expensive. These systems are easier to install in the sense that you are routing something an inch or 2 in diameter rather than 3 or 4, the hole in the cooler is smaller and you don't have to suspend a blower inside the cooler. But you do have a separate chiller unit occupying floor space and consuming electricity. Cheers, A.J. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2009 10:27:44 -0700 From: Dion Hollenbeck <hollen at woodsprite.com> Subject: SKAcomp GABF Pro/Am Qualifier Judges, We still need more judges for the Pro/Am qualifier event at SKA Brewing Co. in Durango, CO. on January 31. Please consider judging at this competition. For questions contact Matt Morrow at Memorrow at fortlewis.edu or call me at (970)764-7128. The website is http://hstrial-cmorrow8.homestead.com/index.html where you can register to judge. - -- Dion Hollenbeck Email: hollen at woodsprite.com Home Page: http://www.woodsprite.com Brewing Page: http://hbd.org/hollen Toys: 98 4Runner, 86 4x4 PU Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 21:59:47 -0500 From: "jeff_ri" <jeff_ri at cox.net> Subject: re: Need help with setting up my draft system. Hi All, In HBD #5479 Matt Frayer asked about chilling the beer lines between his kegs and the taps. Your planned beer lines (1/4 inch ID by 10 ft long) only hold about 3.25 ounces of beer. Since you mentioned the lines will be running through a 50 degree space, you probably won't need to chill them. The first pint will just be a little warmer than the second one. If you do want to chill them, have the air circulate in a loop between the fridge and the taps and run the fan from a thermostat with the sensor near the taps. That way the fan will only run when needed. Jeff McNally Tiverton, RI (652.2 miles, 90.0 deg) A.R. www.southshorebrewclub.org Return to table of contents
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