HOMEBREW Digest #569 Tue 22 January 1991

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Swiss or French Supply House ("Albert J. Albano, DTN 821-4723")
  Bad Batch (Steve Anthony)
  heating and cooling bottles  (Carl West x4449)
  temperature after bottling? (rich)
  Re:  Homebrew Digest #565 (January 14, 1991) (Stuart Levine)
  distillation controversy (florianb)
  Lager Fermentation Control (Norm Hardy)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 21 Jan 91 02:12:37 PST From: "Albert J. Albano, DTN 821-4723" <albano at gva01.enet.dec.com> Subject: Swiss or French Supply House It's been a while since I posted my inquiry asking if someone who follows this conference is aware of a Swiss or French based supply house or mail order store that I can purchase from. I have bee dragging my supplies back from the states and the U.K. whenever I get the chance. This is less than an optimum solution and one that still hasn't permited me to pick up some much needed carboys. Does someone out there have a suggestion on at least where I might be able to locate a local carboy supplier? regards, Al Geneva Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 91 09:35:53 EST From: Steve Anthony <steveo at Think.COM> Subject: Bad Batch Well, I recently experienced my first bad batch of beer in 6 years of brewing! Perhaps a post-mortem is inorder. I thought if perhaps I described the taste/smell/apperance of the beer some kind souls out there in brewnet-land could fill me in on what exactly the infecting agent was. First off, I've recently started using Papazian's krausening method of priming. I sanitize a 1g glass jug and rack about 1/2g of unpitched wort to it. This gets stoppered and put in the fridge. I pitch (WYeast) and ferment as usual. When it's bottling time, I add the appropriate amount of gyle to my bottling bucket (note, right out of the 1g jug. Perhaps I should boil this to pasturize?) and add the fermented wort. Bottle it up and wait. I noticed that the beer never cleared. About the top 1-2" of the champagne bottles I use were clear, the rest was cloudy. This was after about 4 weeks. Secondly, there were flakes of something floating at the surface. The beer was *very* overcarbonated. I tossed it in part because I didn't want to run the risk of glass grenades in the basement! The smell and taste I can only describe as *very* bitter. Kind of like a overzealous IPA; boiled with 5oz of Bullion, or some such. The bittering was overpowering. Couldn't get a hint of malt sweetness or anything. That's about it. I have three new batches fermenting right now, and I don't want them to turn out bad. The only idea I have right now is to either prime with corn sugar boiled in water, or boil the gyle. I haven't changed any other of my techniques; same bottles, jugs, carboys, etc. Any ideas? Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 91 11:37:16 EST From: eisen at kopf.HQ.Ileaf.COM (Carl West x4449) Subject: heating and cooling bottles Way back when I was an art student blowing glass we cooled our work slowly (annealed it) to avoid breakage. If the glass is cooled to quickly, the outside and thin parts become fully rigid before the inside and thick parts have finished contracting, when the thicker parts do begin to contract, the already rigid parts of the piece have to give, something glass is not good at. Sometimes the breakage is immediate, sometimes quite delayed. I had a goblet develop a spreading crack months after it was made because it was incompletely annealed. We cooled our work at the rate of 100 degrees/hour starting at ~1100 degrees. If the glass pieces are relatively thin and of consistent thickness (like a beer bottle) you could probably cool them faster than this without seriously weakening them. Note that the temp/time rule applies to heating glass too. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 91 12:45:51 EST From: pluto!rich at trevor.att.com Subject: temperature after bottling? I'm now brewing my first batch of beer from a ``True Brew'' kit. The instructions say that after bottling the beer should be stored at about 70 F for a week to ``condition'', and then after that it should be stored at 50 F for another four weeks. My problem is that I am unable to store the beer at the 50 F temperature. What will happen to the beer if I continue to keep it at 70 F. Would it be better to keep it in the refrigerator at ~ 40 F? In general, can anyone explain to me what happens to the beer after it is bottled and what effect temperature has on this. Thanks for your help. /rich Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 91 10:58:42 -0800 From: levin at CS.UCLA.EDU (Stuart Levine) Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #565 (January 14, 1991) Please remove my name from the list. levin at cs.ucla.edu thanks Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 91 13:24:21 PST From: florianb at chip.cna.tek.com Subject: distillation controversy First, I'd like to echo Karl Wolff 's plea to terminate discussion of Arabic Law/military policy/illegality of distillation/liquor on aircraft and so on. It's neither here no there. Second, I'd like to challenge anyone (here I go) to quote from any text on distillation, a passage relevant to the presence of methanol in alcoholic brews obtained from natural grains and brewer's yeast. I admit that thermodynamic laws persist in that all the air in the room in which I sit could suddenly rush over into the corner and stay there, and I will never finish this sentence due to asphyxiation. But a sufficient concentration of methanol in fermented grains to produce poisoning would indeed seem remote. Being from the Ozarks, I can say with certainty that it is possible for people to distill superb vodka with quite primitive equipment and straightforward process. This is not a recommendation, since it is illegal. I don't do it, and wouldn't advise anyone else to without a license. But it is not necessarily a process which results in something other than ethanol-rich liquor. If anyone has any facts (and I mean quotable) to the contrary, please feel free to speak up, and I will humbly bow out. Florian Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 91 17:44:32 PST From: polstra!norm at uunet.UU.NET (Norm Hardy) Subject: Lager Fermentation Control Here is a quick update on the use of refrigeration control for getting the proper temperatures for lager fermentation. I purchased the "Hunter Energy Monitor AC Model 42205", a $50 digital device which allow accuracy to +2 -1f within the fridge. The wort variance will be less due to the volume of the fermenter relative to the fridge volume. It is a snap to use, just plug in your fridge to the front of the device and then plug it into an outlet (mine is at the 5 ft level). Set the day and date, and then set the temperature you want to hold the fridge at. A flexible probe goes into the fridge. That's it. It has a timer to prevent the fridge from cycling on more than once every four minutes; but that's a safety feature you'll never need worry about in most all cases anyway, unless you continually by the minute open the fridge door to worry about your lager. It apparently goes down to 40f, plenty cold enough for the primary ferment. For lagering colder than that, simply turn the switch to manual and let the fridge take control again for the colder temperature. The monitor will keep track of the temperature so that you could set your fridge control to what you need. Basically, it works. The unit is designed for air conditioning and is probably cheaper in areas where Hunter (look up FANS in the yellow pages) is popular. I'll let you know how the German Pils turns out (the grain was brought in from Bamberg through a local supply shop). Norm Hardy Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #569, 01/22/91 ************************************* -------
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