HOMEBREW Digest #603 Mon 25 March 1991

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Low Drinking Rate (John DeCarlo)
  Use of Bleach (John DeCarlo)
  Batch Latch Questions (MC2331S)
  Yeast on slants -- what's it look like? (Chris Shenton)
  Original gravity estimate (Russ Gelinas)
  Chimay Yeast and Bottling Dates (Don McDaniel)
  Boston Brew Pubs (Kevin Yager)
  Sheaf Stout recipe (extract preferably) anyone? (Gary Mason  22-Mar-1991 1218)
  Looking for All Grain Barleywine recipe (Nick Thomas)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #602 (March 22, 1991 ("st. stephen")
  Using rocks to boil the wort (George Bragg)
  Re: rock n' rauchbier (Darryl Richman)
  culturing Chimay Ale yeast (Brian Bliss)
  RE: Yeast/Small Batches (Attilio Lee Menegoni)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #602 (March 22, 1991) (Crawford.WBST129)
  malt vinegar (chip upsal)
  Michael Jackson visits Ithaca (Stephen Russell)
  Hop plants (bryan)
  RE: Liquid yeast in small quantities (Conway A. Bolt, III 5-8810)
  Chlorine (Bill Crick)
  New to the art ("603APSSS")
  New to the art

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Friday, 22 Mar 1991 08:27:56 EST From: m14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (John DeCarlo) Subject: Low Drinking Rate >From: "DRCV06::GRAHAM" <graham%drcv06.decnet at drcvax.af.mil> >As I am beginning my homebrewing avocation, I realize that I'll >probably brew in smaller than five gallon batches since I am the >only person I know in my immediate vicinity who likes beer. Well, that is (was?) also the case with me. I don't drink a lot of beer, ranging from one to five bottles a week. No one else in the immediate vicinity drinks beer. However, the beer keeps great in the cellar. I just finished a bitter I made a year and a half ago and it still tastes really good. I just don't brew as often as many others, plus I have lots of different brews to choose from. Plus, whenever we have a party, I don't have to buy any beer for it :-). Also, I usually use a couple of the 1 or 2-liter plastic soda bottles, and save it for parties, either at my house or a friend's. >If I'm using a dry yeast, dividing the package in half, or even >in fourths is no real problem, but I like the sound of using >liquid yeast. How can I use liquid yeast for 1, 2 or 3 gallon >batches? I know I can use a portion and discard the rest, but >that's EXPENSIVE. Is there a liquid yeast available in small >packages, or is there a good way to save Wyeast once it's >opened? Well, no matter what the size of your batch, the more yeast you can put into it, the better. I wouldn't divide dry yeast into fourths or such, just use a whole packet or two even for small batches. You *can't* put too much yeast in the wort!! There are ways of culturing yeast and saving it for later, but I'm not qualified to tell anyone how to do it. Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org (or John.DeCarlo at f131.n109.z1.fidonet.org) Fidonet: 1:109/131 Return to table of contents
Date: Friday, 22 Mar 1991 08:28:33 EST From: m14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (John DeCarlo) Subject: Use of Bleach >From: hplabs!ardent!uunet!pdn.paradyne.com!jgg (Joe Gabriel) > 2. heavy bleach solution used to sterilize bottles...rinsed > with cool water. >I vote for 2 and 4 for the most likely culprits in the case of >the "offtaste" beers. The reasons being, thinking way back The best advice someone gave me early on was not to use too much bleach, as already mentioned. Two tablespoons per five gallons is plenty. Remember, the bleach you *smell* in the water is not attacking bugs. In my experience, five minutes after I dump the bleach solution out of the fermenter, etc., I can't smell the bleach in there any more. Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org (or John.DeCarlo at f131.n109.z1.fidonet.org) Fidonet: 1:109/131 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 91 09:02 CDT From: MC2331S at ACAD.DRAKE.EDU Subject: Batch Latch Questions My partner and I are starting to get tired of all the bottle washing we are doing. I got a flyer in the mail from the company that makes the Batch Latch system for party balls. However, we can't seem to figure out what we would need to get started. Does anybody else use this system? How well does it work? What would we need to get started? Thanks Mark Castleman MC2331S at ACAD.DRAKE.EDU Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 91 10:33:49 EST From: Chris Shenton <chris at endgame.gsfc.nasa.gov> Subject: Yeast on slants -- what's it look like? A few digests back, I whined about apparently not being able to get yeast to culture on slants -- there was no sign of life, infection or otherwise after 4 days. Well, I got no replies :-(. Yesterday, I looked again, and there is some very slight lumpiness on the carmel-colored agar^2. No furriness/fuzziness. No all-white patches, just something which looks a little different than last week. What do your slants look like? What dilution of extract to you mix with your agar? Thanks. - -- ``You can lead a yeast to culture, but you can't make it drink.'' Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1991 10:54:55 EST From: R_GELINAS at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas) Subject: Original gravity estimate I've been "estimating" initial gravity as follows: Take a sample of the boiling wort. Let it cool. Measure its gravity. My boils are about 3.5 gallons, so I add 1.5 gallons of water (at a gravity of 1.0) to get 5 gallons. So, if the wort measured 1.080, I would estimate (3.5*1.080) + (1.5 * 1.0) = 5.28 worth of "weight" in the full 5 gallons. Divide by 5 to get 1.056 OG. Not exact, but it should be close. Am I forgetting anything? Russ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 91 09:20:43 -0700 From: dinsdale at chtm.unm.edu (Don McDaniel) Subject: Chimay Yeast and Bottling Dates In the recent discussions of the culturing of Chimay yeast there have been two references to bottle dates. I have a bottle in my cellar that I'm saving until I'm ready to culture the dregs. I examined it the other day and can find no date on it. Is the date coded? Where should I be looking? I recieved the Chimay and a 750 ml bottle of Corsendonk Monks Brown Ale for my birthday last month. I split the Corsendonk with the friend who gave it to me. We had a religious experience! As soon as it warms a little, I MUST make a trappist ale. From the discussion here and in Miller's book it seems there is really no substitute for original trappist yeast. Don McDaniel Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1991 12:01:47 EST From: sct60a.sunyct.edu!yagerk at sct60a.sunyct.edu (Kevin Yager) Subject: Boston Brew Pubs I am planning a trip to Boston, MA. Could someone suggest some good brewpubs in that area? Howabout breweries and homebrew shops? Kevin Yager yagerk at sct60a.sunyct.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 91 12:14:25 -0500 From: mason at habs11.ENET.DEC.COM (Gary Mason 22-Mar-1991 1218) Subject: Sheaf Stout recipe (extract preferably) anyone? I am looking for an extract recipe for Sheaf Stout. Does anyone have one lying about? While I am at it, I am also trying to put together a spreadsheet (or two, or...) to work with homebrew stuff. One thing that I have wanted to have for a long time is a definitive discussion on conversion of grain to extract recipes. It is probably floating around somewhere, but I find that I have many bits and pieces of stuff relating to a lot of subjects, and correlating it gets to be a problem. So...does anyone have a writeup on the comparison of grain to malt extract syrup to DME around that could be mailed/posted? Besides the pure quantity issue, are there any other issues (effect on hop extraction rates, etc.)? Thanks, and Cheers...Gary Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 91 10:20:58 PST From: nt at Eng.Sun.COM (Nick Thomas) Subject: Looking for All Grain Barleywine recipe Does anyone out there have any experience with all-grain barleywines? All of the recipes I've come across are at least half extract. Given the SG needed, that makes a lot of sense. Of course I don't have a lot of sense and I want to try an all-grain batch anyway. I took the Anchor Steam Brewery tour recently, and they mumbled something about making Old Foghorn with three sets of grain, or sparging the grains three times or something like that Anyone done it successfully?. And a troubleshooting question - I've got a batch that tastes almost, but not quite like fresh squeezed grapefruit juice. I'd welcome any comments on that too. Thanks, -nick (nice guy - can't park a car) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 91 13:31:31 EST From: "st. stephen" <ST402836 at brownvm.brown.edu> Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #602 (March 22, 1991 Howdy, My brew partners and i have just bought our first package of Wyeast. First of all, i understand from the directions on the package that the yeast should be started some time before we're ready to pitch it. The package says "1 day for every month after the code date". Do i really believe this? Break the inner seal, adn the yeast will be ready for pitching in 2 days? Second: We would like to use this yeast in another fermentation (after the current one). I gather from recent net comments that if we wanted to use this yeast immediately after the current fermentation, we could just dump some of the trub from the bottom of the 1st fermenter into the new one. Is this correct? Now, suppose that we don't want 10 gals of the same beer around (picky aren't we?). How can we keep the yeast around 'till we're ready for it? I've heard something about putting it in a beer bottle (all very sanitized) and putting in the fridge, and then getting it started in a mixture of water and malt before pitching. Is this basically correct? What details do i need? Thanks for all your help ... steve Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 91 14:54 EST From: George Bragg <George_Bragg at carleton.ca> Subject: Using rocks to boil the wort Being a geology-type person, I hope I can talk semi-knowledgably about rocks, even if I can't tell malt from hops! :) The question about rocks shattering at high heat gets a resounding NO! If the rock does not contain water trapped in pockets that can convert to steam, nothing will explode. Crystalline rocks (ie granites) are probably better for this, because they were formed at temperatures above 600 degrees a lot of time any way. Besides, with limestones you run the risk of limey beer due to dissolution of the calcium carbonate - definitely not a treat! As for poisonous rocks, believe it or not, the answer could well be yes. Many rock-forming minerals contain such unpleasantries as lead, arsenic, or heavy metals. As a general rule, stay away from any pretty, metallic minerals. They'll contain things like sulphides, which would help to sterilize the wort, but wouldn't do much for the yeast. As I say, they probably use granitic rocks, due to the low content of soluble minerals. ...gcb Disclaimer: If I knew what I was talking about, I'd be a professor, not a student! Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 91 12:25:39 -0800 From: darryl at ism.isc.com (Darryl Richman) Subject: Re: rock n' rauchbier > Date: Thu, 21 Mar 91 10:08:48 EST > >From: Chris Shenton <chris at endgame.gsfc.nasa.gov> > Subject: Rock'n'Rauchbier? > > Many of you have seen/heard Michael Jackson's description of one of the > Rauchbiers from Bamberg which employes superheated rocks to bring their > wort to a boil; subsequently, the rocks are put in the fermenter, where the > carmelized sugars are digested. I believe you have rauchbier confused with steinbier. The former is a normal dark lager beer made with malt that has been dried over smokey beech log fires. Steinbier is indeed made by adding hot rocks to the wort to induce it to boil. --Darryl Richman Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 91 14:33:09 CST From: bliss at csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss) Subject: culturing Chimay Ale yeast I've Cultured two batches so far, both from 750 ml bottles of Chimay Red Ale. I boiled about 3/4 lb of dry malt extract for each bottle. The frist bottle I stored at 65 F, and it wasn't going at all after 2 days, so I moved it to a kitchen cupboard at 75-80F. Within a day it was spurting through the airlock. I started the second batch and left it at 75F, and it took 2 days to reach the air lock. Both batches took off and fermented very rapidly for around a day and a half, and then it was over just like that. like 150 blubs a minute from an econo-lock air lock after 24-36 hours. less than 1 blub a minute 24 hours later. bb Return to table of contents
Date: 22 Mar 91 14:15:07 EST From: Attilio Lee Menegoni <ATTILIO.MENEGONI at OFFICE.WANG.COM> Subject: RE: Yeast/Small Batches RE: HBD #599 - Dan Graham's yeast questions: Dan: I am a novice brewer (2 extract dry yeast, 4 partial mash yweast) batches Taking the advice from the HBD the best things I did for taste improvement were partial mash and liquid yeast. Since it takes as much effort, equipment cost, 3 gallon and 5 gallon carboys are about the same price, I would brew in 5 gallon batches. I use a glass 6.5G ($12) primary and glass 5G secondary. A pak of liquid yeast isn't like a pak of dry yeast from a population stand point. Per Miller's book on homebrewing it is important to have a large population at pitch time. Hence the need to produce a starter. With the use of this method I have had very active fermentation within 24 hours of pitching on all 4 batches using liquid yeast. It takes about 4-5 days from when I activate the culture in the pak until my starter is ready to pitch. I usally activate on Monday and brew on Friday. This is how I re/use liquid yeast: 1) start per directions on the pouch. 2) When inflated, 1-2 days, make a starter I use a 1.5L wine bottle half full of wort, insert air lock 2 days later its ready to pitch. I make this wort from 6oz dry malt in quart of water and boil 15 minutes with a few hop pellets and 1/2tsp yeast nutrient. Cool in fridge add strained contents to the wine bottle and pitch pouch contents when starter fluid is at room temp. When the starter exhibits active fermentation, about 2 days I brew. 3) After pitching and mixing the starter with may 5 gallons of wort I save 6 oz of the aerated wort in a bottle with air lock in my fridge. I have reused a month later by letting it sit at room temp for a couple days and pitching to a starter wort like #2 above with no problems. I do this to get 2 batches per yweast which yeilds a per batch cost for yeast of 2.50 +- .25 I did not mention sanitation, it is a given for all brewing. Also I did not try to 3culture this. I will not brew another batch with dry yeast, the results are worth the extra cost, $2.5 vs $1, and would recommend it for any brewer. Using this method I plan 2 batches ahead. I used 1056 AM ale yeast for 2 test batches which were very similar to see if my process worked. I used 1028 British ale for a Brown Ale and Bitter. I try to use the type yeast that goes with a certain style. I will use 1056 again. (and again) Brew Free or Die Attilio "Lee' Menegoni Hudson NH Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1991 12:42:37 PST From: Crawford.WBST129 at xerox.com Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #602 (March 22, 1991) Larry, The PMS# for the modem speaker problem is 300356 (RIC Modem speaker should be disabled during dial out). Greg x25640 129/144N Return to table of contents
Date: 22 Mar 91 15:43:59 EST From: chip upsal <70731.3556 at compuserve.com> Subject: malt vinegar "MR. DAVID HABERMAN" <habermand at afal-edwards.af.mil> writes about making malt vinegar. >In the February "California Celebrator", Byron Burch has an article about >making malt vinegar. I immediately had a craving for fish and chips! Has >anyone else tried this? He says to get a malt vinegar bacteria culture from >a home brew supplier and put it in a gallon jug with 2 bottles of beer. The >gallon jar is covered with layers of cheesecloth. After 5 or six weeks, it >should be done. The resulting vinegar can then be used as a starter for 8 >more bottles of beer. Can I go to the store and buy a bottle of malt vinegar >and use it ffor a starter? Is the stuff in the store pasturized so that you >can't do that? (Now all I need is a deep fryer to make fish and chips!) I have wanted to make malt vinegar for some time and I plan too this summer. Vinegar seems to like warmer temps for fermentation about 80 F is what I have read. I qustion using bottled beer in making vinegar; how do the hopps affect the flavor? Before using store boght vinegar read the lable. It is often pasturized and filtered. Thus you will have no mother to innoulate your beer. Good luck Chip "in heaven there is no beer, that is why we drink it here...." Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 91 16:21:36 EDT From: srussell at snoopy.msc.cornell.edu (Stephen Russell) Subject: Michael Jackson visits Ithaca Greetings all.... If any of you happen to be in or near the Ithaca, NY, area during the week of April 2nd, know that MICHAEL JACKSON, author of the books THE NEW WORLD GUIDE TO BEER and THE POCKET GUIDE TO BEER will be visiting our town that week. There will be a dinner at the Statler Hotel, Cornell University, on Tuesday, April 2nd at 7pm. The theme is "pairing beer with food". In addition, on the following night, Wednesday, April 3rd, the Ithaca Homebrewers Club will be taking Mr. Jackson to dinner at a local restaurant. Later that night, at 8:15pm, Mr. Jackson will be the honored guest of our brew club at our monthly meeting, which will be held at the CHAPTER HOUSE BREWPUB, 400 Stewart Avenue, Ithaca. All are welcome to attend our meeting (as usual) and bring homebrews. Mr. Jackson will be tasting Chapter House beers and our homemade beers and offering his advice/praises/criticisms. He will also be signing copies of his book for any who bring them. If anyone thinks this is enough to warrant an unplanned road trip to Ithaca and you'd like more information, let me know. My home phone is 607-273-7306 (leave message), work is 607-255-4648; ask for Steve. Better yet, send e-mail to: srussell at snoopy.msc.cornell.edu Hoppy fermentations, STEPHEN RUSSELL Primary Fermenter Ithaca Homebrewers Club Return to table of contents
Date: 22 Mar 91 13:17:01 PST (Fri) From: bryan at tekgen.bv.tek.com Subject: Hop plants I just moved to a new home this year and haven't decided on a permenant home for my hop plants. Does anyone have an idea how wide and deep a pot should be for 1 or 2 hop plants? Thanks, Bryan Olson bryan at tekgen.BV.TEK.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 91 15:33:32 EST From: bolt at tom.WEC.COM (Conway A. Bolt, III 5-8810) Subject: RE: Liquid yeast in small quantities In HBD 599 Dan Graham asked: >As I am beginning my homebrewing avocation, I realize that I'll probably >brew in smaller than five gallon batches since I am the only person I know >in my immediate vicinity who likes beer. >If I'm using a dry yeast, dividing the package in half, or even in fourths >is no real problem, but I like the sound of using liquid yeast. How can I >use liquid yeast for 1, 2 or 3 gallon batches? I know I can use a portion >and discard the rest, but that's EXPENSIVE. Is there a liquid yeast >available in small packages, or is there a good way to save Wyeast once >it's opened? My two cents for what ever that's worth (~2 cents) would be to put the liquid yeast in a sterile bottle (I like 1/2 gallon booze bottles) of a sugar (not table) & water mixture and put an airlock on it. This would probably be sufficient for short periods of time. Each time you need some yeast, sterilize the outer lip of the bottle and pour accordingly. For longer periods > 1 week, I would suggest the same sugar/water mix, but 1/4 fill several sterile beer bottles instead. Sterilize the bottlecaps and cap em. I have used this latter technique to store lager yeast for several weeks at a pop in my fridge. I highly recomend refrigerating the sealed containers as glass grenades & wives don't mix. My other suggestion would be to get higher quality friends (ie the kind that likes good homebrew) and then you could brew in more economical quantities. Try combining your ham radio & beer making hobbies and broadcast at 1000w that a new batch is ready. Conway Bolt Westinghouse Defence & Electronics Center Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1991 17:33:50 -0500 From: hplabs!bnr-vpa!bnr-rsc!crick (Bill Crick) Subject: Chlorine A lot of people are using what I would consider far too much chlorine bleach. A few teaspoons per gallon is lots! In fact I use it very little, except for blasting otherwise tough to clean stains. I rely on Sanitone soap powder, and lots of boiling water. Note that according to my wife, the food scientist, many food grade plastics will absorb fairly large amounts of chlorine, and they will difuse out later This means that if you use a large concentration of chlorinw bleach in or on plastic, you can rinse your brains out, and still end up with chlorine that is in the plastic coming out and contaminating you beer causing astringent, plastic, bandaid smell problems. THis discussion came up because a friend ran into this problem after changing one thing in his process. He had went from detergent, and boiling water cleaning, to nuking a stubborn yeast stain out of a plastic primary fermenter carboy with chlorine bleach!! Also I think boiling caps is ridiculous! I've used somewhere between 5000 - 10000 caps right out of the box, and never had a problem ever. Remember, by the time you get to bottling, your beer has enough alcohol to be fairly resistant to contamination. This is the reason beer was a popular beverage over the last few thousand years, because it can be made in less than clean room conditions and still be sdafe to drink. Granted, keeping things clean gives you more consistant results, and I'm not advocating dirtiness, but back off with the sever chemical warfare! M Bill Crick Brewius, Egro Sum! Return to table of contents
Date: 24 Mar 91 19:44:00 GMT-9:00 From: "603APSSS" <603apsss at kadena-emh.af.mil> Subject: New to the art I N T E R O F F I C E M E M O R A N D U M Date: 24-Mar-1991 07:36pm JST From: 603rd Aerial Port Squadron 603APSSS Dept: Systems Support Center Tel No: TO: Remote Addressee ( __HOMEBREW%HPFCMR at HPLABS.HP.COM ) Subject: New to the art I'm new to this mailing list and have never tried to brew my own beer. I would like to try it but don't know where to start. I would apreciate any advice anyone would care to give: good books, recepies, materials, etc.. I am currently stationed in Japan, and am sure it is not permited to brew here, but I will be returning to the States soon. I will be located in the St. Louis area (the Ilinois side of the river), I would also appreciate information about suppliers, and rules in this area. I'm sorry if this is a request that you get so often that you hate to see it comming, but thanks if you can help!! James Linscheid 603apsss at kadena-emh.af.mil Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #603, 03/25/91 ************************************* -------
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