HOMEBREW Digest #690 Tue 30 July 1991

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Keg not bottle, & correction to pH (Desmond Mottram)
  Re:  Homebrew Digest #689 (July 29, 1991) (Tom Amiro - Sun BOS Information Architecture)
  Re: Dryhopping (wbt)
  Dry hopping
  mg/L to ppm (Daniel S Robins)
  wet-hopping (Russ Gelinas)
  Bread yeast (Ted Manahan)
  boil (Jack Schmidling)
  Boulder Stout ("Anton E. Skaugset")
  please add me to mailing list (Les Rehklau)
  A yeast cluturing experiment. ("DRCV06::GRAHAM")
  ppm vs. mg/L (Tom Strasser)
  Malt Aromatics (Tom Strasser)
  Darryl Richman a nome de plume? (Dave Platt)
  Brewery Tour wrap-up, future Mid-Atlantic conference (Stephen Russell)
  The Great, Unabashed, ppm vs. mg/L Debate (Stephen Russell)
  Re: PPM <--> g/mL (Steve Thornton)
  stuck (top) fermentation (Mark Sandrock)
  A Judge's Lament (Martin A. Lodahl)
  Water, Conical Fermentor, Brewpub Costs (Martin A. Lodahl)
  Re: YEAST (korz)
  Controlling fermenter temperature (David Taylor)
  For Sale: Yeast Bite Ointment (BAUGHMANKR)
  Rye Malt (Jack Baty)
  bush beer (Richard Hubbell)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 29 Jul 91 10:30:19 BST From: Desmond Mottram <des at swindon.ingr.ingr.com> Subject: Keg not bottle, & correction to pH Fed up with bottles? USE A KEG!! There has been a bit of chat about this aready (apologies for lack of acknowledgments): - ----- > >I find bottling to be pretty boring, and am thinking of buying one of > >those Edme plastic dispensers. The way I understand it, .... - ---- > Oh, one more silly thing...any opinions on those british-style plastic > mini-keg things? ... - ---- > > I am interested in kegging my homebrew and am thinking about using a > > beer sphere (party ball).... I have been kegging in those British-style plastic things for several years now and am most satisfied. They are far easier and quicker to clean. They impart no taste to the beer. They give the beer a finer, creamier head. The beer is smoother and less fizzy as less C02 get forced in. (Tho' if you _like_ gassy beer this is a big minus). The beer keeps for weeks; months if you keep the air space to a minimum. It's somehow more satisfying having beer on-tap than in bottles. The only problem I had was with the C02 injector. I was induced to buy a fancy constant-pressure regulator/injector (Brits only - from Boots). It gave me nothing but trouble. It leaked, lost pressure, cracked, ate C02 cylinders. In the end I junked it and replaced it with a simple injector consisting of little more than a nut and bolt with a hole down the centre and a rubber non-return sleeve over the end. Since then nothing but simple pleasure. The only other thing I'd add is that the tall drum-style kegs take longer to clear than the horizontal keg on legs (piggy). I like my pig best. - ---- On another matter entirely, I got the effect of pH on mash enzymes the wrong way round. It should be: higher pH favours alpha-amylase -> more dextrin, sweeter lower pH favours beta-amylase -> more maltose, dryer I said I couldn't actually taste the difference, but after my last batch when I deliberately raised the pH I'm beginning to wonder... - ---- Desmond Mottram Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 91 08:10:57 EDT From: Tom.Amiro at East.Sun.COM (Tom Amiro - Sun BOS Information Architecture) Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #689 (July 29, 1991) I'd like to get off this alias. Tom Amiro Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 91 8:19:52 EDT From: wbt at cbema.att.com Subject: Re: Dryhopping Subject: Dry hopping I've read this five times now and still can't decide what it means. 8-) (In response to question about keeping dry hopping hops from plugging the syphon): Al writes: > Are you using hop pellets? Since I started dryhopping (last brewing > season) I would never do without. This gives the implication the author dry hops with pellets... > I still use pellets for the boil -- > I use a hop bag in the boil and just throw the hop leaves > into the fermentor after the krauesen falls. Why use a hop bag with pellets? Anyway, here it's plainly stated that leaf hops are used for dry hopping. I can't rationalize that against the first statement. Do you use leaf hops or pellets for your dry hopping ? - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Bill Thacker AT&T Network Systems - Columbus wbt at cbnews.att.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 91 9:23:21 EDT From: Daniel S Robins <dsrobins at magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> Subject: mg/L to ppm As a chemist, I thought I could be of some assistance with your questions concerning conversion of mg/L to ppm. Parts per million/billion (depending on which you would like) are used to express concentrations of solutes (stuff of interest)that are quite dilute. Below is the conversion: ppm = (weight of solute/weight of solution) x 10e+6 Some points to remember: 1. Doesn't matter what weigh unit you use as long as it is consistent. By that I mean, if your solute weight is expressed in mg then your solution weight must be in mg as well. 2. Since your solution I assume to be water, the simple conversion is 1L = 1000 mg. If the explanation has been clouded, let me know. Hope I could be of some further assistance. Dan Robins INTERNET:dsrobins at magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu Ohio State University 140 W. 18th Ave. Columbus, OH 43202 614-292-0426 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1991 9:46:33 EDT From: R_GELINAS at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas) Subject: wet-hopping This talk of dryhopping and clogged siphons got me thinking (don't worry I'll be careful). Why not heat up some hops, strain it, and put the "tea" into the fermenter, in effect, wet-hopping? I seem to remember a "Hop-head" beer at the AHA conference made by a Maine club that did just that, and it worked very well. You might even try adding some alcohol to the tea as you're heating it up; that might help with the oil extraction. Aha, I knew it. Darryl Richman/Poorman is actually Steve Russell! That's why you never see them posting messages at the same time! Good one, Steve. Russ Gelinas UNH Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 91 08:11:57 pdt From: Ted Manahan <tedm at hpcvcbp.cv.hp.com> Subject: Bread yeast Full-Name: Ted Manahan > Every book I have ever read and every person I have asked, says bread yeast > makes yucky beer but I have never heard it from anyone who has ever actually > tried it. I tried it for soda pop once. It carbonates just fine, but gave the pop a "yeasty" flavor and didn't compact well at the bottom of the bottle. It was impossible to pour off a clean glass of pop without lots of yeast sediment in the glass. Ted Manahan tedm at hp-pcd.cv.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 91 09:46 CDT From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: boil To: Homebrew Digest Fm: Jack Schmidling TO BOIL OR NOT TO BOIL The following excerpt is from "BREW IT YOURSELF" by Leigh P Beadle. I would be interested in comments. His position is very clear and stimulates my conspiracy hot button. On p.42 he is discussing the brewing process with canned extract..... "You simply pour the malt extract into you container and disolve them in water. There is one very important point I should make concerning the mixing of the malt, which I will again emphasize in the section on porcedures. Do NOT bring the water to a boil. ...... stuff on enzymes.... If you allow the water temperature to approach the boiling point, you will upset this sugar conversion and cause it to refix at a stage that will not allow the yeast to convert all the malt sugar to alcohol and carbon dioxide. The temperature of the mixing water must not exceed 153 degs F. Every other book on home-brewing has incorrectly given instructions to boil the malt in the water to disolve it. This will only guarantee that some of the malt sugar will not be converted. This single bit of misinformation from those who should know better has caused many beginners to become unnecessarily discouraged in their attempts at brewing." ......... Wow! jack  Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 91 10:53:12 CDT From: "Anton E. Skaugset" <skaugset at aries.scs.uiuc.edu> Subject: Boulder Stout Greetings. Has anyone out there tried Boulder Stout (Boulder Brewing Company, Boulder Colo.)? I got a six-pack this last week, and notwithstanding M. Jackson's rating of three stars, I think it's almost undrinkable. It's got a very light stout flavor, and it's quite sweet, but what really turns me off is an overwhelming flavor of chicory. The label says they only use water, malted barley, hops, and yeast. But the flavor of chicory is very intense. It's like drinking iced coffee. Do they actually use chicory in their beer? If not, does anyone know what kind of malt gives this flavor? And what are other beer-drinkers opinions of the beer? Thanks. Anton E. Skaugset "You have to kill a pessimist. skaugset at aries.scs.uiuc.edu Optimists usually take care of themselves." University of Illinois Reed '87 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 91 09:43:14 -0700 From: les at mips.com (Les Rehklau) Subject: please add me to mailing list Please add me to your mail list. thanks les (les at mips.com) Return to table of contents
Date: 29 Jul 91 12:53:00 EDT From: "DRCV06::GRAHAM" <graham%drcv06.decnet at drcvax.af.mil> Subject: A yeast cluturing experiment. I sure hope the experiment goes better than the spelling on the "subject" line. It seems to me that slants are nice, but more trouble than necessary for saving yeast to reuse. I'm going to try this little, semi-scientific experiment. 1. Make a regular batch of beer. 2. Save several ounces of the yeast slurry. 3. Divide the slurry among two dozen sterile culture tubes. 4. Top off each tube with the beer just made. 5. Cap and store in refrigerator. 6. Each month for two years, make a starter from a tube. If the yeast is viable, I should have an active starter within a day or so. I have been told that yeast stored under beer will remain viable for over a year. I'll let y'all know as the experiment progresses. If this works, it will sure make storing a large variety of yeast an easy task. Dan Graham . . . Occam's Razor for homebrewers: When there is more than one possible answer, pick the one that tastes better! Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 91 13:06:57 -0400 From: strasser at raj2.tn.cornell.edu (Tom Strasser) Subject: ppm vs. mg/L With the conflicting information yesterday I thought I would add my two cents worth on the conversion issue. ppm are NOT equal to mg/L unless the attomic species being measured has the same atomic weight as that of the liquid (e.g. water, e.g. 18 g/mol). Two cheers for Rich who realized this in his entry. To be a little more specific, as Rich didn't deal with units, the equation to convert mg/L of atom x to ppm is: ppm= [mg/L]*m*(Aw/Ax) Where: Aw=atomic weight of water, 18 g/mol Ax=atomic weight of x, the mg/L species reported initially m=the same m as listed in Rich's formula, a factor to correct the concentration of species x if more than one atom of interest is present in the molecule report in [mg/L] (e.g if mg/L of CaCl2 is reported, then Ax=40+2*35.5=111, and m=1 if you calculate Ca ppm, while m=2 if you calculate Cl ppm). For those of you who doubt this, a simple way to think of it is ppm measures the number of atoms in the water, while mg/L measures the weight of the atoms in the water. The number relating the weight to the number of atoms is the atomic weight of the species involved, and this is why the atomic weight must be a part of formula relating these two measures. I'd be happy to give a more thorough analysis to people interested, but I doubt this would be of interest to the digest subscribers in general. Tom Strasser......strasser at raj5.tn.cornell.edu......Long live the IBU's! P.S.- Does this sound right to you Darryl??? or should I say Steve??? Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 91 13:33:02 -0400 From: strasser at raj2.tn.cornell.edu (Tom Strasser) Subject: Malt Aromatics In HBD 660 srussell at snoopy (Darryl?) asks of ways to impart malt aroma to a beer. I have watched with interest, as no replys were forthcoming. I have done an informal poll among Ithaca brewers who I know have more malt aroma in their beer, and it seems they may cover during the boil (many because they have to). I was wondering if those of you in digest land think, as I do, that this is a plausible way to increase malt aroma in beer. We all know that during the boil there are a tremendous amount of volatiles driven off which we can smell anywhere near the boiler. If this is the case, then perhaps if you cover during the boil you will prevent the malt volatiles from being driven off, leaving them to be enjoyed by the drinkers of our homebrew. So what do you think??? Tom Strasser.....strasser at raj5.tn.cornell.edu P.S.- Did anyone see Steve Russell and Darryl Richman at the convention at the same time??? Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 91 09:41:49 PDT From: dplatt at ntg.com (Dave Platt) Subject: Darryl Richman a nome de plume? In #689, Darryl Richman (darryl at ism.isc.com) writes: > P.S. To all the adoring fans, yes... it's true: this is just a facade > account and nome d'plume for Steve Russell (srussell at snoopy.msc.cornell.edu), > one of those lovable rascals at Cornell, where there is nothing better to > do than drink. IBU, UBMe, We All B Each Other. So... you mean to tell me, after all these years, that Steve Russell is the _other_ other Darr{e|y}l? I have trouble believing this, Deesar... you don't _look_ Cornellish! ;-} -dave- Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 91 14:45:40 EDT From: srussell at snoopy.msc.cornell.edu (Stephen Russell) Subject: Brewery Tour wrap-up, future Mid-Atlantic conference Summer is here and the time is right for drinking beers in New Jersey, of all places. Some sixty homebrewers and friends converged upon the Clement Brewing Company in Vernon Valley this past weekend. The brewery, with its open, wooden cask fermenters, and wooden cask lagering tanks was a bit of an ana- chronism, but great to see nonetheless. Clement Pilsener and Blonde Double Bock flowed freely, as did homebrew from 10 clubs in 4 states (NY, NJ, PA, CT). Hopefully, we will be able to go again next year, drink more beer, dance more polkas, drink more beer, eat more ham hocks and honey chicken, and drink more beer. Thanks to all who came and made it such a worthwhile time. It is hoped by many of us that at some point in the not-too-distant future (maybe by 1993?) we can set up a Mid-Atlantic Regional Homebrew Conference and Competition. The first stage is to get homebrewers from the area together just to get to know each other. I hope that others around our region that hold events will publicize them (and this goes for other regions as well) and encourage multi-club and independent participation. Hats off to those seven clubs in Southern California who put on their first regional this past spring; I would enjoy hearing how you all organized this and what went on. Perhaps one of those Maltose Falcons (maybe even Darryl himself, or should I just write myself? :-)) or Barley Bandits or someone else could e-mail info to me. IBU ERGO SUM, STEVE ps Despite rumors circulating to the contrary, I am *not* Darryl Richman, but I do believe that a certain tall, lanky North Carolinian just might be. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 91 14:47:40 EDT From: srussell at snoopy.msc.cornell.edu (Stephen Russell) Subject: The Great, Unabashed, ppm vs. mg/L Debate Ok, I couldn't resist..... As for the ppm vs. mg/L debate (n.b. don't you all just LOVE how we can flame on about such stupid, nitpicky things like this for days on end.....), Tom (strasser at raj5.tn.cornell.edu) Strasser is *NOT*, generally speaking, correct that ppm measures the NUMBER of atoms of a given species dissolved in solu- tion. Actually, ppm is most often the WEIGHT of these atoms, although from the sound of "parts", it seems like it SHOULD be by number. It's just a con- venience thing...people have easier access to scales than they do to periodic tables and calcultators, I suppose. My feeling is that ppm is anachronistic. Let's suppose you add 5 grams (5000 mg) CaCO3 into 1 liter of water. This gives 5000mg/L (obviously!). It also gives 5000 ppm. How? You have, by weight, 1,000,000 mg water in 1 liter, since the density of water is 1 g/cc. 5000mg/1,000,000mg = 5000 ppm. Of course, you have .4 x 5000 = 2000 ppm Ca and .6 x 5000 = 3000 ppm CO3. This is just illustrative: I wouldn't add these concentrations for brewing unless I was after a *real* chalky product (wouldn't dissolve under normal conditions, anyway, I'd bet). But, hey, let's let Tom and John Polstra fight it out, and since the whole thing is contingent on whether or not one defines a priori whether you have ppm by weight or by number, both are right and both are wrong. And now, back to your regularly scheduled program... IBU ERGO SUM, STEVE Hmmmmm....will the REAL Darryl Richman PLEASE stand up?!? Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 91 15:17:09 EST From: Steve Thornton <NETWRK at HARVARDA.HARVARD.EDU> Subject: Re: PPM <--> g/mL One fellow says: >Sure! To convert from PPM to mg/l, just multiply by 1.0. To convert >from mg/l to PPM, divide by 1.0. Or is it the other way around ... ? :-) > >No, seriously folks ... for all practical purposes, the two units of >measure are the same. And another says: > Boy, do I feel dumb! (Well, not dumb, really, just metrically >impaired.) As some people were nice enough to point out: > > a. 1 litre = 1000 grams > b. 1 gram = 1000 milligrams > c. from a and b we have - 1 litre = 1,000,000 mg > d. from c - mg/L and ppm are the same > > Please correct me if this is wrong. If everything about making It's wrong. 1 liter does indeed equal 1000 grams -- of pure water at 4 Centigrade. You wouldn't expect a liter of Mercury to weigh the same as a liter of alcohol, would you? Since you're trying to discover the amount of stuff in your water that isn't water, it seems reasonable to assume that it will not have a density of 1.0, right? So, I'm afraid you're going to have to go back to the calculating board and figger it out. Now if I was really smart, I'd tell you how, but I missed that day in Chem. Steve Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 91 15:07:51 CDT From: Mark Sandrock <sandrock at aries.scs.uiuc.edu> Subject: stuck (top) fermentation Tried my first batch of homebrew in about 6 years Friday night, and seem to have a stuck fermentation on my hands. The details are: 3kg (6.6lb) light malt extract, plus 1lb crystal and 0.5lb toasted pale ale malt, boiled for 1 hour with 2oz Bullion and Cascade hops, and a starter made from Edme dry Ale Yeast. Cooled wort in sink and added to cooled preboiled water in 5 gal glass carboy to make 4 gals of wort. Initial SG and temp not measured, but temp estimated to be about 70F (based upon room temp). Used blow-by method with 1"ID tubing leading to bucket of (strong) bleach solution. Fermentation was strong through first 16 hours or so, but then slackened until finally ceasing by 24 hour after pitching. Repitching additional (M&F) Ale Yeast and placing carboy in 90-100F bathwater produced steady bubbling, which ceased again overnight as water cooled to room temp (70F). Haven't taken SG yet, but surely a high gravity ale like this (Palilia recipe from p.155 in Papazian's book) has a long way to go still. In trying to figure out what might have gone wrong, I come up with 2 possibilities: (1) wort not adequately aerated. After pouring the 2.5 gals preboiled water into the carboy, I swirled it around a bit hoping this would help. Wort was both poured and siphened (filter kept clogging), but I have no idea if this constitutes adequate aeration. It's pretty hard to stir wort in a carboy and not easy to shake it up either, considering the weight. Any hints about this? (2) It turned out that I had misread the instructions in Papaizan for making a sterilizing solution. Instead of the one teaspoon or so he recommends for this purpose, I was using the 2oz (per 5 gals) he recommends for a "cleaning" solution. On top of that, I always rinsed using *cold* tap water, rather than the warm or hot tap water recommended by Papazian. Is it possible that some small amount of chlorine made it into the wort and caused the problem? Any email responses will be summarized, or reply via the Digest. Thank you. Mark Sandrock - -- UIUC Chemical Sciences Computer Center "There are thoughts always abroad in 505 S. Matthews Ave., Urbana, IL 61801 the air which it takes more wit to avoid Voice: 217-244-0561/Fax: 217-244-???? than to hit upon." -O W Holmes Internet: sandrock at aries.scs.uiuc.edu Bitnet: sandrock at uiucscs Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 91 12:23:22 PDT From: Martin A. Lodahl <pbmoss!malodah at PacBell.COM> Subject: A Judge's Lament At a tasting last night, someone said something we all "know", and a little light went on: "Homebrew can't make you sick!" *BZZT!* Wrong! True, an infected beer is not likely to pass its infection on to you. That would be like catching the Dutch Elm Disease. But the more acquainted I become with infected beer, the more I'm convinced it's not harmless. For the last few days I've been judging the first round of the California State Fair's homebrew contest, and there have been a shocking number of infected beers, with unusually serious infections. Saturday, for example, we had two "self-emptiers" out of a flight of eight. That's a pretty scary percentage! Another beer caused all the judges in the panel to develop violent (though brief) headaches within seconds of tasting it. I've developed even less pleasant physical complications after my last two contests, and I'm beginning to suspect it isn't just a coincidence. Have other judges experienced anything like this? I've noticed that some with much more experience than I have simply refuse to taste anything that smells especially bad, and I think I'm beginning to see the wisdom in this. The advantage to this attack of the Creeping Green Horribles is that it helps convince me that I'm not just another virtual homebrewer, dreamed up by Kinney Baughman and Darryl Richman (who?) ... = Martin A. Lodahl Pacific*Bell Systems Analyst = = malodah at pbmoss.Pacbell.COM Sacramento, CA 916.972.4821 = = If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, = = Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! 8-) = Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 91 12:58:13 PDT From: Martin A. Lodahl <pbmoss!malodah at PacBell.COM> Subject: Water, Conical Fermentor, Brewpub Costs First, hats off to Tom Bower for his pointer to Sears as a source for a reasonably-priced (like, free) water analysis, and hats off to Sears for offering it. The cost of buying a filter setup from them is less than the prices I'd been quoted for an analysis. I'll send my sample off right away ... Was anyone else (other than Kinney Baughman) as surprised as I that no one mentioned the Brewcap in answer to John Cotterill's question concerning a conical fermentor? Functionally, I would think that would fill the bill nicely, but I haven't tried one yet. And another word on the discussion of the cost of starting up a brewpub or microbrewery: if you're seriously considering such a move, I urge you to attend a session of Dr. Michael Lewis' course, "Brewpubs and Microbreweries: Brewing & Business", offered a couple of times a year through the U. C. Davis Extension at a cost of about $275. Yeah, that seems like a lot, but it's cheap compared to the risk you'll be taking in starting such an enterprise. Dr. Lewis was deeply involved in the Back Alley Brewery debacle, as well as having served as a consultant to many successful micros & brewpubs, and offers unique insight into what you can expect to meet. You can get an advance taste of reality the next time your brother-in-law Harry says you should go pro, by asking how much he's willing to invest, without guarantee, in your brewpub ... = Martin A. Lodahl Pacific*Bell Systems Analyst = = malodah at pbmoss.Pacbell.COM Sacramento, CA 916.972.4821 = = If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, = = Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! 8-) = Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 91 14:25 CDT From: korz at ihlpl.att.com Subject: Re: YEAST Jack Schmidling writes: >Every book I have ever read and every person I have asked, says bread yeast >makes yucky beer but I have never heard it from anyone who has ever actually >tried it. Someone on the digest (a long time ago - maybe digest #50 or #100) wrote of a comparison test that they did using a couple of dry beer yeasts and bread yeast and the beer from the bread yeast (to them) tasted the best. But that was a long, long time ago in a land far, far away and I've probably killed most of the brain cells that held that info. >In light of the fact that all beer and ale yeast are the same species as >bread yeast, I find it hard to believe that any residual taste could be >significantly different. Different strains of yeast produce beer with significantly different flavors. I brewed two batches of beer, back-to-back using all the same ingredients and technique except for the yeast. One was made with Muntona dry yeast (from a Munton and Fison kit) and the other with Wyeast London Ale. Both tasted quite good, but the Muntona batch had quite a strong clove taste. The clove taste faded to where it was tolerable after about two months, but never quite went away. >I am even having a hard time believing there is a difference between top and >bottom fermenting yeasts. They look and act pretty much the same, as far as >I can tell. I have only brewed ales (because I LOVE ales and like lagers) but have read quite a bit on the subject. Besides *actually* flocculating to the top or bottom, the main difference (or at least the main difference that is important from a mechanical perspective) is that lager yeasts are tolerant of colder fermentation temperatures whereas ale yeasts either go dormant or die at colder temps. Just to make the picture complete, at colder fermentation temperatures, yeast produce less esters and other by-products, hence lagers don't have the fruity flavors that ales do. Al. korz at ihlpl.att.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1991 11:23 EST From: David Taylor <DAVID at phillip.edu.au> Subject: Controlling fermenter temperature Gooday, I am brewing through winter here while most HBD readers are enjoying warm beer drinking weather! I am about to brew some batches with ale yeast and need to control the fermenter temperature. To date I've used a flat, flexible waterbed heater (300W) wrapped around a plastic fermenter with the sensor poked between the heater and fermenter. I'm not really sure what temperature the brew is sitting at, (the plastic is a poor conductor) and can't use the heater on a glass carboy. I'm thinking of building a cabinet large enough for three fermenters, heating it with light bulbs, stirring the air with a computer cooling fan and controlling the temp. with the water bed thermostat. Does anyone have any comments on using heated-air cabinets as opposed to water baths, or any other clever ideas? Thanks all... David Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1991 21:59 EST From: BAUGHMANKR at CONRAD.APPSTATE.EDU Subject: For Sale: Yeast Bite Ointment OK. There's nothing like talking about what you don't know what you're talking about to send you to the reference books. Quoting from _Malting and Brewing Science_, page 539. (I hope you're ready for this. Parenthetical comments come directly from Webster's and are for the benefit of those who are as ignorant of biochemistry as I am. OK, Cornell. Quit laughing!!! Some of us went to a liberal arts college. So there!) "Yeast cells in stationary phase of growth often contain a single large vacuole. Within this organelle there are usually several dense 'granules' (volutin granules) of polyphosphate. During exponential growth (this is primary fermentation, I assume) there may be one or several vacuoles in the cell and they often lack granular inclusions (that's the polyphosphate stuff, I think), possibly indicating the mobilization of a phosphate reserve during active growth. Vacuoles are bounded by a single membrane and contain hydrolytic enzymes (these guys react with water producing a weak acid OR base) whose function is to recycle ('turn-over') the macromolecular components of the cell e.g. protein, nucleic acids. The vacuolar membrane isolates these lytic enzymes (that is, the hydroLYTIC enzymes whose action is destructive) from the cytoplasm. It is of interest that these enzymes have no substantial carbohydrate moiety (funny what those chemists find interesting, ain't it?), in contrast to extracellular enzymes of yeast. Disintegration of the membrane, which is encouraged by high temperature, alkaline pH, the absence of nutrients and certain organic solvents, results in the autolysis of the cell. Leaving yeast for long periods in contact with beer may also induce autolysis and the products released IMPART A BITTER TASTE (YEAST-BITE) TO THE BEVERAGE." (emphasis mine) On page 637, during a discussion of how to make yeast concentrates: "The autolytic procedure involves the disintegration of the vacuole and the release of lytic enzymes." And on page 819: "Yeast should not be allowed to autolyse in contact with beer as the fatty acids liberated will destroy the foam stability." Now. Here's where I need help from you chemistry types. I read the above as saying: As a result of high temperature, alkaline pH, the absence of nutrients and certain organic solvents, or just plain old age, a yeast cell will autolyse. Autolysis is the distintegration of the vacuolar membrane within which we have these granules of polyphosphate (sounds bitter to me) and hydrolytic enzymes (I guess these could be bitter, too). Once the membrane distintegrates, these polyphosphates and lytic enzymes are released (along with some fatty acids) producing a bitter taste in the beer, commonly known as "yeast bite". Whew!! That's the best I could come up with. No matter what the particulars are, it sounds like "yeast bite" is a product of autolysis. I stand corrected. Yeast does bite. Ouch! Stop that!! Kinney Baughman | Yeast bites are my business and | I can't find the salve. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 91 21:11:11 CDT From: jack at wubios.wustl.edu (Jack Baty) Subject: Rye Malt Some time ago the subject of malted rye came up the the digest. The Summer 1991 issue of _Zymurgy_ contains an ad from a supplier. The Malt Shop ad says they've had a ton produced for them. The important information (page 69) is: $1.09 / lb or $43.60 / 50 lb The Malt Shop N 3211 Hwy S, Cascade WI 53011 1-800-235-0026 - -- Jack Baty Division of Biostatistics Washington University Medical School St. Louis jack at wubios.WUstl.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 91 20:30:44 PDT From: 6600hubb%ucsbuxa at hub.ucsb.edu (Richard Hubbell) Subject: bush beer I have heard of a beer from the Cook Islands called bush beer it's made from oranges. Has anyone made this or tasted this or.... Just curious it sounds real intersting. RH Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #690, 07/30/91 ************************************* -------
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