HOMEBREW Digest #707 Thu 22 August 1991

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Re: Why is my beer so sweet? (Jason Goldman)
  Re: Malting and enzyme destruction... (Eric Pepke)
  Re: Lauter Tun Set Up (Jason Goldman)
  ss pots (Russ Gelinas)
  Detonation imminent? (Dances with Workstations)
  The great yeast hunt (nnieuwej)
  ss pots (Russ Gelinas)
  It's the yeast I could do... (Peter Kester)
  Reply to Homebrew Digest #706 (August 21, 1991)  (rsd)
  Boston brew locations (Larry McCaig)
  Re: Kegging (Chris Shenton)
  Re: Grains with Extract (John DeCarlo)
  Re: yeast production of SO2  (hersh)
  Re: Lagering problem (John Polstra)
  Stuff From my Head(semi-long) (Chad Epifanio)
  Low temp. fermentation procedures (joshua.grosse)
  Bottles and Storage (Peter Kester)
  can i save the yeast cake? (Greg Pryzby)
  re brewing legalities (Chip Hitchcock)
  Re : Malt extracts (Frank Mayhar)
  Same recipe, same conditions, different ferment times plus NJ store (man)
  re Frank's excessively sweet first efforts ("Doug Olson, ISVG West, Mtn View")
  Tang (was: Re : Malt extracts) (Douglas Allen Luce)
  kegging (Jack Schmidling)
  Explosives and Ginger Ale (Steve Kirkish)

Send submissions to homebrew%hpfcmi at hplabs.hp.com Send requests to homebrew-request%hpfcmi at hplabs.hp.com [Please do not send me requests for back issues] Archives are available from netlib at mthvax.cs.miami.edu
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 21 Aug 91 08:08:32 -0600 From: Jason Goldman <jason at gibson.sde.hp.com> Subject: Re: Why is my beer so sweet? Acting as an armchair expert;-), my guess is that the beers that you are making are underhopped. When there's not enough hops to balance the malt flavor, the beer is going to taste *alot* sweeter. Your best bet is to stop using hopped extract (the reason alot of people advise mashing is to have more control over the beer than using extracts, by using hopped extracts, you are giving up one more thing under your control) and use real hops. You should also probably try to boil more than 2 gallons of wort, if you can. The temperature factor is perhaps valid as well, but I don't think that it is the major contributor. Good luck, Jason Regal lager: not just a beer, it's a palindrome! Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1991 10:08:04 EDT From: PEPKE at SCRI1.SCRI.FSU.EDU (Eric Pepke) Subject: Re: Malting and enzyme destruction... > Jeeze, if Miller and Papazian believe that enzymes are killed > in Mash-Out at 168f, then someone is on drugs. > Can anyone explain? Is it the availability of H2O? Yes and yes. The enzymes can stand higher temperatures when they are dry. That's why the malt must be dried at lower temperatures before it can be kilned. They're not totally invincible, though. Roasting will destroy them. Eric Pepke INTERNET: pepke at gw.scri.fsu.edu Supercomputer Computations Research Institute MFENET: pepke at fsu Florida State University SPAN: scri::pepke Tallahassee, FL 32306-4052 BITNET: pepke at fsu Disclaimer: My employers seldom even LISTEN to my opinions. Meta-disclaimer: Any society that needs disclaimers has too many lawyers. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 91 08:18:55 -0600 From: Jason Goldman <jason at gibson.sde.hp.com> Subject: Re: Lauter Tun Set Up I use a pseudo-double-bucket lauter tun. I started with two 5 gallon buckets. I not only drilled the proverbial million holes, but to beat the problem you described, I cut the bottom off the 'holy' bucket and it fits all the way down to the tap in the other bucket. I also cut a couple of tabs into the sides of the false bottom so I can pull it out when I'm done (it's a very tight fit). Jason Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1991 9:52:06 EDT From: R_GELINAS at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas) Subject: ss pots Just to hold off requests for info, Rapids phone number is (800) 553-7906. Ask for a catalog. They'll ask if it's for a business. Say yes; they are wholesale only. Russ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 91 09:15:01 -0400 From: buchman at marva1.dco.DEC.COM (Dances with Workstations) Subject: Detonation imminent? Hi, I need a quick expert opinion to avoid redecorating my basement in broken glass and Toad Spit Stout. I brewed this using the recipe in Papazian; fermentation was very vigorous for three days, then slowed to almost nothing. Gravity went from 1.050 to 1.020 and held there for five days, so I assumed fermenting was done and bottled with 3/4 cup corn sugar. Because of the high ending gravity, and keeping the recent discussion on bottle bombs in mind, I carefully opened a bottle last night. After only three days in the bottle the stout had about the pressure that one would expect from a mature bottle, or more: even though I opened it in stages, it gushed over a little bit. When poured, it had a lot of head on it, which dissipated within two minutes. The brew itself did not taste overly carbon- ated. About half the batch is in resealable Fischer (Grolch-style) bottles, so I took the precaution of opening and closing all of them to relieve the pressure. None of them gushed, but I didn't leave the bottles unsealed long enough for them to do so. The other half, though, are in capped bottles. What I would like to know is: - should I uncap and recap all of these bottles to avoid a problem with excess pressure? It might result in flat beer (though I can always open and reprime the bottles), and then again it might prevent bottle bombs. - Will it be sufficient to just put the bottles in the refrigerator, on the theory that cold beer holds more carbonation and so is less likely to blow up? I hate to chill good stout but will do so if necessary. - Am I worrying too much? After all, the final fermentation could have finished quickly because of the warm weather in summer. The basement stays in the 75 range this time of year, but might reach 80 during the day when it's hot. - If I want to take another SG to see if there were excess ferment- ables which are now being "processed", will the carbonation in a bottled beer skew the results? I could leave a bottle opened but airlocked overnight to let it go flat. And of course I would have to adjust for the sugar added for bottling. You can respond directly to me at buchman at marva1.enet.dec.com, or post the response. I'll summarize any interesting responses. (btw, I never heard back about the recipe for Pumpkin Ale from this summer's Zymurgy. Does anyone have it?) Thanks, Jim Buchman Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 91 09:40:38 -0400 From: nnieuwej at pooh.bowdoin.edu Subject: The great yeast hunt I'm relatively new to the digest, but I've been brewing for some time. I've been slowly working my way through the past year of archived digests but (surprisingly) haven't found an answer to one question I've had for a long time. While there are many accounts of culturing the yeast from a bottle of comercial beer, most (if not all) of these involve Sierra Nevada. I'm sure everyone has heard apocryphal stories of an individual purchasing 10+ cases of some exotic beer, hoping that there will be just a single stray yeast cell that can be nurtured and cared for and encouraged to reproduce. Rather than spend a small fortune on commercial beer, I thought I would turn to the experts. From what brands of beer has yeast successfully been cultured? -Nils Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1991 9:21:05 EDT From: R_GELINAS at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas) Subject: ss pots Sorry Justin, but Rapids Inc. still has the best prices. I just bought a 40 qt. ss pot (made by Polar, I think) with lid. The pot was $90, and the lid was $18. I also got a ss spoon for $2.25. UPS shipping to NH cost about $11, so the whole package cost me $121. I believe Rapids is located in Iowa, which would lead to lower shipping costs to most of the US than from Minnesota. Russ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 91 11:13:05 -0400 From: m22457 at mwunix.mitre.org (Peter Kester) Subject: It's the yeast I could do... Full-Name: Peter Kester I just getting caught up with my digests and read your article: > I live on the coast of Maine (hee hee hee :->) where homebrew supply > shops are few and far between. It is rare that any of the three > stores that I am aware of have anything other than your standard > Red Star dry yeast :-(. Certainly there is nothing like the selection > I've heard of on the net (German ale yeast #1007 !!?! what!?!). Is ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ This is a liquid yeast. Wyeast (as well as others) sell liquid yeast cultures designed for different types of beer. This is not to say that you couldn't use the german ale yeast in making a stout or other type of beer. The different strains of yeast will impart different flavors to the finished product. > there another store in Maine (other than the Whip&Spoon, the Purple Foot, > and the Grainery) or is there a reliable mail order house? Any addresses > or phone numbers would be much appreciated. I'm not sure where else in Maine you could try, but some mail order places are: The Home Brewery 1-800-321-BREW Alternative Beverages 1-800-365-BREW Brewhaus 1-800-265-BIER I've only ordered from Alterative Beverages (located in Charlotte, NC) and had no problem. > Oh yeah, any idea why a beer would gush when opened warm but not when > it's been chilled? Simple physics: A colder liquid can hold more compressed gas than a warmer one. However, if you're getting gushers in non-infected brews, you're probably putting in too much priming sugar or bottling too soon. > -Nils 'my cup runneth over' Nieuwejaar BTW, I'll be in Brunswick for a friend's wedding the weekend of October 12th and probably for a hockey weekend sometime. If you want to, we could get together and exchange experiences and homebrew. Pete Kester '87 pkester at mitre.org Go U BEARS! Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 91 10:12:14 -0400 From: rsd at silk.udev.cdc.com Subject: Reply to Homebrew Digest #706 (August 21, 1991) In Homebrew Digest #706 Dean Cookson asks: > I've been wondering, is kegging really worth the starting expense?? > The Cat's Meow lists a couple of places with complete Cornelius > systems in the $150-$175 range. Is that a good price?? I am in the process of setting up a kegging system. I had been watching the "business equipment" section of the local want ads for several weeks. I finally saw an ad for a restaurant that had gone out of business and was liquidating its equipment. I showed up at the restaurant at the appointed hour. I was able to buy two 10# CO2 tanks, two 2 guage regulators and a half full coke canister (Firestone) for $60.00. I also met a fellow who owns and runs a used restaurant equipment company. He said that he had a supply of used kegs that he could part with for $5.00 each. For comparison, I had been quoted prices of $32 for a new regulator, $50 and $70 (two quotes) for CO2 tanks. (empty, $5.32 to fill.) and $49.95 (used) $89.95 (new) for Cornelilus kegs. My impression is that $32 is a good price for a new regulator, $50-$70 is a reasonable range for new 5# CO2 cylinders and that $50 is a little high for used Cornelius kegs. I don't have any handle at all on what one should expect to pay for hoses, fittings etc... The moral of this story is that it is pretty easy to spend $150 to get set up to keg your brew, but that with patience and a little research you can do much better. - ----- Richard Dale rsd at silk.udev.cdc.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 91 11:44:03 EDT From: larry at evi.com (Larry McCaig) Subject: Boston brew locations > Daniel S Robins asks: > I am going to be heading to New England in the near future and will > be interested to visit some places of interest with beer as a > theme. Specifically, I will be spending a day in Framingham, MA > and a weekend plus in Conway, NH. Be they brewpubs, > microbreweries, or homebrew supply shops, I would appreciate any > suggestions. There is a beer and wine supply in Framingham: New England Wine Making Supply 501 Worcester Road Framingham, Ma. (508)875-1414 I went there once perhaps 10 years ago and thought it was rather expensive, but things can change a lot in that amount of time. In Woburn: Beer & Wine Hobby 180 New Boston Street Woburn, Ma. (617)665-8442 This is a very well stocked store. From Framingham, go east on Rt 9 to Rt 128, then North on Rt 128 to the Washington Street Exit. Take a left to the lights, then another left and follow this road about 1 mile. They are located in the rear of a warehouse. And in Cambridge: The Modern Brewer Massachusetts Avenue Cambridge, Ma. (617)868-5580 This is my favorite store. They are relatively new, but are extremely helpful. They tend to carry some of the harder to find hopps and yeasts. I highly recommend this store. Although I don't know of any 'Great' drinking locations in Framingham, for price of a short drive into Boston (about 20 miles), or take the commuter train into North Station. from here, you could try the following locations: The Commonwealth Brewing Company 138 Portland Street Boston, Ma. (617)523-8383 Exit North Station onto Causeway Street. Take a right then your third left. This is Portland Street, and the Brewpub is a few hundred feet down. This is a brewpub and restaurant. It has been here for 7 years and has several brews on tap. They also bottle two or three of their beers. I am not too familiar with the styles, but do know that they have a stout and I beleive a pale ale, and a few others. After you finish here, go back to the 'T' station across from North Station. Take any train to Park Street Station. Go down stairs and take the Red Line train outbound to Kendall(MIT) Station. When you come out of the station, walk through the loby of the Marriott Hotel, turn left and walk about 1/4 mile. The brewpub is on the right. The Cambridge Brewing Company 1 Kendal Square Cambridge, Ma. (617)494-1994 This is also a Brewpub and Restaurant. They have Amber Ale, Golden Ale, Pale Ale, and Porter plus one special beer which currently is Scotch Ale. I like the Pale Ale and Porter the best. All of the food that I have had here has been excellent. If you haven't had enough yet, get back on the Red Line outbound to Harvard station. Right smack in the center of the square at Mass. Ave. and JFK street is: The Wursthaus 4 John F Kennedy Cambridge, Ma. (617)491-7110 They have several beers on tap (including Spaten), about 150 beers in bottles, and excellent German style food. Now, get back on the Red Line (if you can see the entrance) and head inbound to Park Street. Go upstairs and take the Commonwealth Ave Green line train, stay on this until you come to Comm Ave and Harvard Street. Get off, take a right onto Harvard Street and follow to Brighton Ave. Take a right and just around the corner is: The Sunset Grill & Tap 130 Brighton Ave. Alston, Ma. (617)254-1331 Food is great, there are 14 Taps of which at least one is cider. They also have many, many beers in bottles (enough to fill a four page menu). Highly recommended. In Jamaca Plain there is: The Boston Brewing Company St Germaine ST ??? Jamacia Plain, Ma. This is where some of the Sam Adams beer is made. They have tours and beer tastings on Mondays, Thursdays, and Saturdays at 2 PM. We have one other brewery near Northern Ave which makes Harpoon Ale. I don't have any info on their tour hours, or even the name of the brewery, but someone should be able to fill you in. The ale is quite nice. Hope this helps you out a bit. I don't know the area you are going to in New Hampshire that well so can't help you there. There is a new Brewpub in Portsmouth (which is on the coast and quite a distance from conway) which I went to last Sunday. Unfortunately I didn't get to try the beer because the power was out and they couldn't accept a Visa Card which was my only method of payment at the time. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 91 12:05:54 EDT From: Chris Shenton <chris at asylum.gsfc.nasa.gov> Subject: Re: Kegging On Tue, 20 Aug 91 11:45:00 EDT, cookson at mbunix.mitre.org said: Dean> is kegging really worth the starting expense?? The Cat's Meow lists Dean> a couple of places with complete Cornelius systems in the $150-$175 Dean> range. Is that a good price?? How long will homebrew (ale) keep in Dean> a keg? I like kegs -- less work and tho I've never had the problem, no glass grenades (if you make sure your kegs have overpressure reliefs). The prices you mention *are* good. I went with Foxx but used my own kegs; they're a good company to deal with and are very competetive. I got a double guage regulator so I can see the keg and CO2 pressure. My only complaint about kegs is that when my friends hear I've `tapped' one, it doesn't tend to last too long! I've now switched to doing double batches :-) I've had a couple batches hanging out for quite some time -- months. I think it should be as good as bottles because of the CO2 blanket and so on. Cheers. - -- One must be drunk always ... If you would not feel the horrible burden of Time that breaks your shoulders and bows you to the earth, you must intoxicate yourself unceasingly. But with what? With wine, poetry, or with virtue, your choice. But intoxicate yourself! -- Charles Baudelaire Return to table of contents
Date: Wednesday, 21 Aug 1991 12:23:04 EDT From: m14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (John DeCarlo) Subject: Re: Grains with Extract >Date: Mon, 19 Aug 91 07:27:14 EDT >From: neptune!pryzby at uunet.UU.NET (Greg Pryzby) >I cracked the grains (w/ a rolling pin) and left them in a bag >in water at 150-160F for 30 minutes. I removed the grains and >added the extract and boiled for 1 hour. I have taken to sparging the grains to get more from them. After I strain them, I put them back in a pot, cover with warm water, then strain the water into the brewpot--it is often very dark, too. I'll also put the grains in my strainer/funnel and pour hot water over them while the result is still dark. Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org (or John.DeCarlo at f131.n109.z1.fidonet.org) Fidonet: 1:109/131 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 91 12:27:09 EDT From: hersh at expo.lcs.mit.edu Subject: Re: yeast production of SO2 Chip H asks me: > are you sure it's SO2 instead of H2S (much more noticeable) that you're smelling? Oops, retraction of braindead posting. Yes Chip it is H2S, not SO2 I was thinking of.... (extremely embarrased look on my face :-) - JaH Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 91 09:25:57 PDT From: polstra!jdp at uunet.UU.NET (John Polstra) Subject: Re: Lagering problem In HBD #706, "Jack D. Hill" <jdhill at BBN.COM> asked about an apparent resurgence of fermentation in a lager he was brewing: > Last week I noticed the fermentation cap riding low and a marked > decrease of bubbles. The krausen was thin. Bottling seemed to be in > order. Yesterday, I brought up the carboy and let it settle while I > prepared and cleaned the bottles. After an hour I was getting and > incredible amount of fermentation activity. Obviously it wasn't ready > to bottle. It probably wasn't a renewed fermentation you were seeing. This is a normal phenomenon when brewing lager beers. CO2 is more soluble at lower temperatures. During fermentation, a lot of the CO2 that was produced went straight into solution in the cold wort. As the wort warmed up while you were cleaning your bottles, the dissolved CO2 began to come out of solution, producing the activity that you saw. Beers that I have lagered at very low temperatures (just above freezing) have exhibited this effect to the extent that, when warmed up to serving temperature, they are already rather nicely (if lightly) carbonated. I'd say go ahead and bottle your beer. John Polstra polstra!jdp at uunet.uu.net Polstra & Co., Inc. ...!uunet!polstra!jdp Seattle, Washington USA (206) 932-6482 "Self-knowledge is always bad news." -- John Barth Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 91 09:43:50 PDT From: chad at mpl.UCSD.EDU (Chad Epifanio) Subject: Stuff From my Head(semi-long) Dean asked about "Single vs. 2 stage fermentation": I've been told that ales generally do not benifit from extended aging in the fermenters, and should be bottled within two weeks(ideally right after fermentation ends). I've usually found this to be true, except with the *extremenly* high gravity beers(like Russian Imperial Stout) or flavored beers(like Raspberry Ale), which seemed to benifit from a bit longer aging. I racked off the trub before fermentation twice, and both times came up with rather insipid brews; pale and tasteless. I am now into all-grain brews, and I get a big cold-break in the kettle. I've taken to pouring about half the sediment(thru a strainer) into the fermenter, and it seems to work OK. When my beers are in the primary for more than a week, I usually rack off the sediment. Yeast will begin autolysis after about two weeks or so, so I'm told; I've never let it hang around that long. Usually I'm more concerned with giving the beer a chance to clear. After I rack, I get about an inch of precipitation immediatly. Perhaps the agitation of siphoning shakes some things out of suspenstion? I've used 5-gal and 6.5-gal carboys as primary fermenters, but now I use a 7-gal plastic bucket with lid. I like the bucket for many reasons. One is that I "recycle" my yeast, and grabbing a cup of slurry is easy with the bucket. Another is that it makes very little mess pouring the wort into the bucket, as opposed to thru the narrow neck of a carboy. Still another is the handle, which makes carrying 5.5 gal of beer easy. Plus its cheaper than the carboys, which I save for secondary fermentation, and a bit easier to clean. I know, the bucket does seem a bit unsanitary compared to a clean glass carboy, but during active fermentation the yeast should put up a good head and a blanket of carbon dioxide which protects the beer quite well. Disadvantages of the bucket are that it scratches easier, and you can't see when the yeast begins to sediment. Jack Hill writes about "Lagering Problems": Lets assume that you were very carefull, and no contamination problems occurred. I see no reason whatsoever why you should see active fermentation after that long(I've made that same recipe). You realize that CO2 is more soluable at cold temps than at warm, and the yeast would have produced a lot of CO2 by now. Perhaps what you saw was the saturated CO2 coming out of solution when the liquid warmed up??? Five gallons can hold a lot of gas. Frank has sweet beer: Well, I have tried variations of those recipes, but have found that hopped extracts are not hopped for shit, or at least don't taste like it. Try an unhopped extract, and add a good bit of hops to counter the sweetness. By the way, 1/2 oz. Bullions may not be enough for a stout bitterness, but that's just my hophead opinion. I have had complete fermentations in two days before, so I don't think that's the problem. My beers usually take longer to carbonate than Charlie says, as well. They may "dry out" with age. JaH has repeating articles: Just curious. The last couple seem to be twins. Kurt askes about "Lauter Tun Set Up": I'm unsure of your exact question, but I'll throw this in instead. What I've been using successfully is the old sparge bag method with a twist. I took a piece of 1/4"od copper tubing(which, by the way, was left over from my counter-flow wort chiller fiasco), and bent it aound the bottom of the bucket, connecting the two ends with a piece of 1/4"id plastic tubing. Put this circle into the bag, and wedge it as far down as it will go. This forces the edges of the bag tight against the sides, preventing sparge water from running prematurly down the sides. I also float the grains with the `ol "loop the output hose to the level of the grains" trick. It keeps the grains from compacting too tightly. Chad Epifanio | "Go Yeltsin! Scripps Institution of Oceanography | Kick some ass!" Marine Physics Laboratory | chad at mpl.ucsd.edu | ================================================================ "All words and ideas are my own, etc., etc..." Return to table of contents
Date: Wednesday, 21 August 1991 11:25am ET From: joshua.grosse at amail.amdahl.com Subject: Low temp. fermentation procedures In HBD 706, Martin Lodahl wrote about starting liquid yeasts at room temperature and fermenting at 55 degrees, including a discussion of underpitching and reculturing. He said that he usually recultures but has had successes with pitching directly from the started package. I just used Wyeast for the first time also, and want to discuss my first attempt at cold fermentation. I pitched from the package. My latest batch is an extremely light wheat beer (SG 1.025) that has been in the primary for 6 days. I pitched Wyeast Pilsner when the wort was just about 86 degrees, and it slowly dropped down into the 40's while in the 'fridge. There is about a 1/3 inch kreusen on top of the wort, though I think it contains mostly coagulates from the Irish Moss, as its thick and not foamy. There has been some outgassing, but not enough to blow the kreusen out the blowout tube. I replaced the blowout tube (which went into a jar partly filled with water, so it had a lock) with a standard fermentation lock yesterday. Based on this slow start, I needn't have bothered with a blowout tube. When I replaced the blowout and bung with a lock and bung, I sniffed at the old bung. NICE ODOR. So, I'm assured I don't have an infection, and my only concern is for procedures and temperatures for refridgerated fermentation. My wife, who doesn't drink, looked into my fridge and said, "It looks like someone threw up in there." She may have meant the thick kreusen, but she may also have meant the very pale clouds of flocculations that I can see layered in the carboy. There are cumulous clouds at the top, and stratus clouds about two or three inches above the trub. I believe these must be yeast. At first, I thought I might have had the fridge turned down to low and that ice was forming. Then, I looked a little more closely. Definitely not ice, though I do have vodka in my fermentation lock, as the top of the carboy is closest to the refridgeration unit. The CO2 activity is very slow. Have I underpitched? Is it my low SG? My temp too low? My temp too high? Did I pitch too early? Is there anything I should do? shouldn't do? A thermometer in the fridge is showing 42 degrees. Should I be concerned, or should I RDWHAHB? Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 91 13:41:55 -0400 From: m22457 at mwunix.mitre.org (Peter Kester) Subject: Bottles and Storage Full-Name: Peter Kester I'm just catching up on my digest reading and saw your post. Did you get any useful suggestions? How's the brewing going? Pete Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 91 13:39:27 EDT From: neptune!pryzby at uunet.UU.NET (Greg Pryzby) Subject: can i save the yeast cake? I eas wondering if I could save the yeast at the bottom of the primary fermenter? After I transfer the wort to a secondary fermenter I was wondering if I could store the yeast cake for future use. Thanks on the "solutions" to my slow start fermentation using liquid yeast. I now know how to "properly" use liquid yeast. peace, greg Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 91 12:14:27 EDT From: cjh at vallance.HQ.Ileaf.COM (Chip Hitchcock) Subject: re brewing legalities Congress did not pass a law saying that anyone can brew beer; they canceled a previous law that said nobody can brew at home. cf after the 18th amendment (prohibition) was canceled by the 21st, many counties and municipalities remained dry (e.g., Arlington MA), even those where alcohol was an industry (Jack Daniels' ads say you can't buy it where it's made as the whole county is dry). If somebody wanted to make an issue about it, the right-to-privacy elucidated by the Supreme Court in \Griswold/ (ruling out CT law against contraceptives) could be argued to apply to home brewing, but it's unlikely anyone wants to take the time and money to fight and the current Court is mostly opposed to the right-to-privacy. I don't think Utah is a dry state; Tim Powers (SF writer) mentioned picking up a suitcase of Coors on his way from downtown to BYU for a speech (as a leadin to the fuss when someone noticed the case cooling on the outside of his windowsill). Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1991 19:09:10 GMT From: fmayhar at hermes.ladc.bull.com (Frank Mayhar) Subject: Re : Malt extracts I'm a (barely) beginning homebrewer, and have been reading with some concern about nutrient problems in malt extracts. Does anyone have any advice on how to alleviate the problem? As in, what to add to the extract before fermentation? Bear in mind that I'm a rank novice at this, so I'll probably need brand names. I don't plan to start mashing (even as an adjunct to the extract) for a good while yet. I know, "relax, don't worry, and have a homebrew." I do the first two fine, it's the third one that I want to get to. - -- Frank Mayhar fmayhar at hermes.ladc.bull.com (..!{uunet,hacgate}!ladcgw!fmayhar) Bull HN Information Systems Inc. Los Angeles Development Center 5250 W. Century Blvd., LA, CA 90045 Phone: (213) 216-6241 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 91 13:58 EDT From: man at kato.att.com Subject: Same recipe, same conditions, different ferment times plus NJ store On August 11, I made a batch of bitter doing a partial mash plus extract (Miller's Ordinary Bitter). I've made this before with good results. Anyway, I used WYeast's Chico Ale yeast that I used to start a 1 pint wort mixture. When the large wort was cool, the starter was at high krausen and I pitched. The visible ferment was underway in about 12 hours, but the krausen stayed high. OG 1.055 TEMP during ferment was 72-74 F in my basement. On August 17, I made another starter of 1 pint and innoculated it with about 3 oz of the batch made on August 11. The starter took off immediately. On August 18, I made the same beer again. All ingredients came from the same place. The yeast was from the starter made the previous day. It smelled fine. Conditions were the same. OG was the same. TEMP was the same for ferment. On August 20, the beer made on the 11th was finally nearing completion. Gravity was 1.010, but the batch still had a slight pancake on it. The beer made on the 18th was also at 1.010 and had no such pancake. Both samples taken for the gravity check tasted similar. Any ideas as to what would cause a faster ferment ? Both batches were aerated the same way (shaking and sloshing) and both had visible signs of fermentation after about 12 hours. My 2 guesses are: 1.The first batch did ferment fast and the excessive bubbling was not a sign if fermentation per say, but only a sign of excess CO2 or O2 being released. 2.The second batch was in reality better aerated and the extra healthy starter got the ferment going fast (for all I know it started at midnight). Supply stores in NJ: In addition to Wine Hobby in Hillsborough (not recommended at all), there is Jersey Brewing in Lebanon, NJ. It is run by Mark Bernick mostly as a service to the members of MASH. He does do mail order and his prices are competitive. I don't have the number, but he is listed under his last name (as opposed to Jersey Brewing). The area code is 908. Mark Nevar Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 91 13:06:22 PDT From: "Doug Olson, ISVG West, Mtn View" <olson at sx4gto.enet.dec.com> Subject: re Frank's excessively sweet first efforts > From: Frank Tutzauer <COMFRANK at ubvmsc.cc.buffalo.edu> > Subject: Why is my beer so sweet? > 2. Not hopped enough. Hey Frank, good job on the description. I, too, like hoppy bitterness to balance malt sweetness, and as long as you use the (under-)hopped extracts, you'll end up short on those infernal bittering units. We tend to use 2 oz of high-alpha (>10%) hops for an hour in over 2.5 gallons of boiling wort, and another 2 oz of medium-high-alpha (4.5-8%) hops for 5 minutes finish. Bitters it right up. I'd switch extracts to unhopped varieties posthaste, but don't worry about your fermentation temps, yeasts, or infections yet; those aren't your problem. DougO (aka Slug) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1991 17:48:14 -0400 (EDT) From: Douglas Allen Luce <dl2p+ at andrew.cmu.edu> Subject: Tang (was: Re : Malt extracts) Excerpts from internet.homebrew-beer: 20-Aug-91 Re : Malt extracts Conn Copas at loughborough. (1732) > Lastly, another part-mythical creature : the malt extract 'tang'. Fact or > fiction ? Fact, of course. I don't think Tang is exactly a malt extract. A friend of mine (over a pitcher of Sam Adams and some truly fattening Polish dinners) suggested that Tang might be a good source of fermentable sugar. I gave it a try, using one of those 8-in high bottles of Tang and water to make 1 gallon of liquid (added a tsp. of yeast nutrient). Pitched Montrachet wine yeast (dry). Fermented in a plastic bucket for 4 days, then in a glass vessel for 4 weeks. Racked, and 4 months later, I've a fairly strong wine, just a bit bitter (due to the high citric acid count -- maybe diluting the original must would fix that). A great party favor! Douglas Luce Carnegie Mellon Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 91 09:57 CDT From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: kegging To: Homebrew Digest Fm: Jack Schmidling Subject: KEGGING, BAD NEWS RE:: cookson at mbunix.mitre.org Subject: Kegging >I've been wondering, is kegging really worth the starting expense?? The Cat's Meow lists a couple of places with complete Cornelius systems in the $150-$175 range. The good news is that you can make your own for just about nothing. Just take home a keg of stuff from your local liquor store and water the garden with it. Remove the bung and replace it with a removable hatch (a few tapped holes and a piece of plexiglas) and you have a keg for the cost of the deposit. The BAD NEWS is, the system works so well that it is probably the shortest distance between social drinking and alcoholism, not to mention a belly that looks like the keg. I attribute my escallation to "over-indulging", to a very large extent, to kegging. I even had a tap on the outside wall near the swimming pool. When you don't have to wash bottles and no one is able to count them, it gets real easy to just slosh around in the stuff. I quit drinking for ten years and have started brewing again but only allow myself one 16 oz bottle every other day. That may not seem to be worth the trouble but first of all, it's not much trouble to meet my current demand but more importantly, it's infinitely better than NO BEER. > What's the collective HBD wisdom on these questions? I can only speak for myself and I say, wash bottles. jack Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 1991 20:04:24 From: kla!kirkish at Sun.COM (Steve Kirkish) Subject: Explosives and Ginger Ale In HBD #702, Mitchell M. Evans writes: >How can I be sure that the bottle I am about to open is not a bomb? >Any hints would make opening the first bottle of a batch much less >traumatic for me, from now on. Yikes! Hope the thumb's better now. Well, I just had a similar (but not so dramatic) experience with a batch of Ginger Ale (more on *that* in a moment). I found one hint that I had bottle-bombs from the cap: My capper puts dimples in the caps when it seals. I lost only two bottles ( :-(, but at least I weeded out the weak ones...Darwinism in a most peculiar way...), and I noticed that the dimple in the surviving bottles had popped up. Needless to say, I bled it open (the bottle, not my thumb), letting the pressure leak out more slowly, before popping the cap off. I also did this wearing safety glasses (will these become standard issue for making soda?) Speaking of sodas, the Ginger Ale recipe was the one posted by Bob Gorman, HBD #685. I brewed up a batch about 3 weeks ago, using Champagne Yeast. I cooled it to 78 F and pitched the yeast, then let it sit for about 9 hours, in the SS pot, covered, to let it settle out a bit. Bottled it and put it aside. After one week, the carbonation was already phenomenal...pour it in a glass, and you saw 90% bubbles and 10% liquid. The aroma was that of a cheap champagne, and it had very undeveloped flavors of honey and slight lemon. After two weeks, not much different. After 2.5 weeks, I came down one morning to find bits of glass all over the dining room (fortunately, I had the bottles in a box. Glass shards were driven right through the cardboard, tho.) I bled the pressure out of the rest of the bottles and stored them in a box in my ice chest (sans ice.) The taste was better, getting somewhat closer to Ginger Ale. Now for the questions: 1. How long should I expect the Ginger Ale to sit in the bottle until it tastes like Ginger ale (a time estimate rather than "until it's done" would be helpful :-) 2. Is honey the best thing for this recipe? What about sugar? What kind? Corn? Cane? Nutrasweet?? 3. What can I do to prevent future batches from blowing up? (This is assuming I'm still interesting in using up precious bottles that would rather be harboring beer.) Any hints/tips would be appreciated. btw, Bob, how did your batch turn out (assuming it's still intact?) I apologize if this isn't the most appropriate forum for soda-questions, but it's the best I got. If you don't want to send it to the HBD, send it directly to me. - -- Steve Kirkish, sun.com!kla!kirkish PS: I did brew a batch of dark ale [porter? How do *you* define it?] that same day [my first batch in about 5 years!]...it's starting to turn out wonderful, but inspires me to tweak the recipe some and start another batch. This must be how the rest of you guys and gals got hooked! Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #707, 08/22/91 ************************************* -------
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 06/29/00, by HBD2HTML version 1.2 by K.F.L.
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96