HOMEBREW Digest #745 Tue 22 October 1991

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Christmas ale & general observations (Chad Epifanio)
  Slow fermentation. I'm relaxed and pondering. (HAPANOWI)
  Egg Whites and Boiling (Brian Capouch)
  Digby and 'beareth an egg' (H.W.) Troup <HWT at BNR.CA>
  A Quick Note (Martin A. Lodahl)
  Civil War Beer recipes: found (Thomas Manteufel 5-4257)
  Coffee Beer (Marc Light)
  Hot Wort Oxidation ( gjfix at utamat.uta.edu )
  Re: Miller's Book (John DeCarlo)
  Brewing equipment setup? (Chris Shenton)
  Re: Father Barleywine's yeast reuse trick -- first attempt (Chris Shenton)
  Collecting Yeast (KCDESCH)
  Homebrew Digest #744 (October 21, 1991) (David Resch)
  OG of an ``Egge'' (Chris Shenton)
  Bartender's Guide (Michael L. Hall)
  Mead Recipes ("Acid should be leagal in Art class.")
  Re: Chrishmas (HBD#744) (larryba)
  RE- New Brewer suggested reading (hersh)
  recipes ("KATMAN.WNETS385")
  Orange County brewing. (eapu045)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 18 Oct 91 15:52:41 PDT From: chad at mpl.UCSD.EDU (Chad Epifanio) Subject: Christmas ale & general observations Hello. Good to see the HBD again. Someone asked for Christmas beer recipes a while back. Here is a funky beer I made: 10 lb Klages pale malt } mashed at 158F for 1.5 hrs 0.5 lb amber crystal malt } 2 oz Cascade(4.9%) 10 HBU 3 lbs plums, depitted & sliced 7 oranges; flesh sliced, and peels diced(didn't remove pith) 2 lemons; flesh sliced, and peels diced(didn't remove pith) 1 T gnd nutmeg 3 t whole cloves 5 2"-sticks cinammon 0.5 cp fresh grated ginger root William's English Brewery Ale yeast(from 12oz starter) NOTE: forgot Irish Moss There was too much particulate(orange pits, plum halves, etc) to get an original SG, so I didn't even bother with a FG. Boiled hops for 1 hr. Added fruit and spices during final 10min of boil. Cooled to 80F in half-hour and pitched. Racked after 5 days, and noted rocky head from fruit pulp. Added 2T dissolved gelatin after 12 days. Bottled after 15 days. It tastes a bit tart, but the hops is a good balance for the sweetness. Its quite clear, considering all the shit that went in it. A pale yellow color. I have a cold, so I can't describe the smell, but they tell me it smells like fruit(shocker). Probably not enough spice character, namely the cloves and cinammon. All in all, quite drinkable, but the taste does stay with you for awhile. In the last four batches, I've added 2T gelatin about 3 days before bottling. I'm pleased with the results. For the first time, I get beers that you can see through. I calculate that on most of my all-grain brews, I calculate I'm only getting around 1.025/lb of Klages. I just finished 2 identical batches of brown ale. On the first one, I accidentally boiled the mash for awhile(forgot the stove was on). This one started 1 point Balling lower and ended 0.5 Balling higher than the other batch. I wanted to keg this double batch, because I was trying to avoid the 4 hour bottling session we had last night. HBD went down before I got any reply about my kegging question. So here it is again: Anyboy used commercial beer kegs successfully? ASAIRIZ, I have instructions for removing the ball-tap assemblys. Is it easy, or even recommended? I have a commission to do a super bowl party, and I'd rather not go through bottling 15 gal of beer. And please don't tell me to go buy a keg system, as that won't happen in the near future, unless the beer fairy leaves one under my pillow. Chad Epifanio chad%mpl at ucsd.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 91 21:50 EST From: <HAPANOWI%CERAMICS.BITNET at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU> Subject: Slow fermentation. I'm relaxed and pondering. On 9/14/91 I brewed up a batch of Pale Ale. The original SG was 1.045. After about a week I transfered the batch into a secondary fermenter. The transfer was made because the fermentation had slowed. The SG at this time was around 1.035. I thought is was quite high. The airlock would bubble occasionally, but the time interval between bubbles was long. Another note; A the brew time the temperature was around 60F, then a sudden heat wave gave temperatures in the upper 70's for about four days during the initial fermentation. I thought the fermentation was stuck, so I took the advice from a brew shop owner and added champagne yeast. Fermentation continued but the rate never really picked up. I measured the SG today, 10/18, the measure result was 1.030. Can anyone give me some advice. I tasted the beer about two weeks ago, since I added oak chips it had a wood flavor, I can only describe it as fit for fire-breathing dragons. There was also sweetness to it. Today the beer tasted sweet, but the wood seemed to mellow out, it is not bad, there are no "off" flavors. The wood chips were added the time of transfer to the secondary fermenter, they were removed about one week later. What do you think? Sit on my hands for a few more weeks? Can I help the fermentation at all? How would I do this? The airlock still bubbles but the time interval is quite long, >15 min. Rick Hapanowicz HAPANOWICZ at CERAMICS Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 91 22:16:23 -0500 (CDT) From: Brian Capouch <brianc at zeta.saintjoe.EDU> Subject: Egg Whites and Boiling In HBD #743 (and thanks be to Gardner we're back on the air. . ) Jacob Galley writes: Has anyone out there ever heard of putting egg whites in the boil? I've never heard of doing it with brews, but back when I was spending the time I now spend brewing as a cook (Yup, me too. . .) egg whites occurred pretty often as a stock clarifier. You might check McGee's excellent "On Food and Cooking" (first volume)--I'd be surprised if it weren't discussed in there. I can remember the startlingly clear soups I produced when I used an egg-white method (which I don't recall very well) to clarify. > What on earth does the phrase "beareth an Egge" mean? Well, how about, "floats an egg," which is what I'm sure he means. The evaporation of water and concomitant rise in the SG of the liquid, I presume, would allow one to gauge the progress of the boil by dropping a fresh egg into the liquid, in case the hydrometer lacked a hundred years or so of being invented :-) > What does the thickness of the "Egge" have to do with anything, if > you've been scumming off the top all the while? (My Webster's says > that a groat is an old coin worth four pennies.) Groats are cracked grains, "larger than grits" according to my dictionary. I would guess this means that just the slightest amount of eggshell presents itself above the liquid level. Return to table of contents
Date: 20 Oct 91 12:55:00 EDT From: Henry (H.W.) Troup <HWT at BNR.CA> Subject: Digby and 'beareth an egg' Digby uses (used?) eggs as hydrometers. 'Beareth an egg ... the breadth of a groat' means that a fresh laid egg floats so that a circle the size of a groat coin is above the liquid. A groat was worth four pennies (Webster's Ninth) and my faulty memory says that it was about the size of quarter, so we're talking pretty stiff mead here. A friend of mine in the SCA wrote a paper "The eggs of the very eminently learned Sir Kenelm Digbie, refloated". He speculated that the eggs were equivalent to modern bantam eggs. Somewhere I may have a copy, don't hold your breath. Hope it's useful... Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 91 13:29:45 PDT From: Martin A. Lodahl <hpfcmr.fc.hp.com!hplabs!pbmoss!malodah> Subject: A Quick Note I must confess, HBD's unplanned hiatus was well-timed, for me. Between mushrooming work commitments, editorial deadlines, and a beer-fest that seems to be firmly resisting my efforts to organize it, I just haven't had the time to be my usual blatherskite self. But Jeff Frane said a couple of things in HBD 743 that I can't let pass without commentary: >In 741, Martin Lodahl: I've been planning a Belgian abbey-style double or >triple. Wuffo you put in that brown sugar? I was trying for an effect, and it worked. The idea was to introduce just a hint of the flavor that in its extreme form is called "cidery". If just above threshold, it's perceived as a pleasing complexity. I did the same thing for the same reason in the batch of Scotch "wee heavy" that I bottled yesterday, and don't find it pleasing in that batch. Next time I use _that_ recipe, I'll omit the sugar, add some flaked barley, and peat-smoke the crystal malt more intensely. > ... WYeast, by the way, will be offering >a abbey-style yeast within the next month or so. And, if it's like their other products, it will certainly be excellent ... > ... You might have better results >and avoid the banana-esters; it's possible the bottle yeast wasn't all that >clean. ?? As I said in my initial posting, this batch went through a hot fermentation. Others I've spoken with who've fermented hot with Chimay yeast have had the same results. It appears to be a "nature of the beast" question. Which reminds me: does anyone know with a degree of certainty if Chimay bottles with their regular fermenting yeast (ala Sierra Nevada), or if, like Worthington and like Orval, they maintain a separate culture for the purpose? I've heard the question answered both ways, and would really like to know. >: I've been told that some British breweries *deliberately* >oxidize the wort in the kettle in order to darken it; this in lieu of adding >more caramel malt ... Odd as it may sound, this makes sense to me, especially for brew that is not to be bottled. If an entire batch is to be kegged and consumed within 3 or 4 weeks of brewing, oxidation is less of an issue. Ditto infection, as a discouraging number of California pubbrewers seem intent on proving. >To Darryl: We'll have to wrassle about recommending Dave Miller's book. I think >it's absolutely the wrong book for a beginning brewer; only an experienced >brewer is likely to notice all the places Miller's wrong. This puzzles me greatly. Could you point out a few of these places, Jeff? And what book would you recommend in its place? By the way, I'm with Darryl. I'd recommend Miller without hesitation. > Not to mention the illustration on how to start a siphon! Aaaagh! Get > your mouth off that, Dave! I wonder about this. I've never tried any other way, and the only three batches I've ever had with any symptom of infection at all have all been directly traceable to the yeast used (dry, in all cases). I personally am not inclined to view it as a problem. Well, playtime's over. Back to work ... = Martin A. Lodahl Pacific*Bell Systems Analyst = = malodah at pbmoss.Pacbell.COM Sacramento, CA 916.972.4821 = = If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, = = Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! 8-) = Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 91 06:39:51 CDT From: tomm at pet.med.ge.com (Thomas Manteufel 5-4257) Subject: Civil War Beer recipes: found Hello, fellow history lovers. Back on September 12, I posted a request for any information on the kinds of beers produced in the United States during the Civil War era. I want to brew up a batch to give to my brothers, avid reenacters. Thanks to Jay Hersh, Mile Schrempp, John Otten (especially) for tips and information. Here is what I found: Ales, stouts and porters were popular in the 1830's due to the "British heritage". Most ale was brewed at home before this, but the commercial breweries became popular with the growth of the cities. Most ale breweries were established between 1830 and the mid-1850's. Lager beer was introduced in 1840, and was immediatly popular with the German immigrants, who found the Ale style too thick and bitter. Lager didn't really become popular with the mass market until the early 1850's, but by 1860 had more of the market share than the ales. For example, there were dozens of ale breweries in Milwaukee in 1850. By 1867, one was left, and that was sold, (and closed down) in 1880. So in 1860-1865, both ale (porters and stouts) and lagers were being brewed and enjoyed. As for the war itself, due to the shortage of manpower both to collect ice and to brew, ale regained a brief popularity. Even though troops were officially dry, enterprising brewers still managed to supply the troops. The NEW YORK HERALD of August 23, 1862 complains bitterly of the wealthy suppliers who "sip champange" while "supplying ale and porter" to the troops. Rum was also extremely popular (that British heritage, I suppose). Beer brewed at home was popular again, due to the shortages of the war. Thanks to the National Park Service, I was able to get a hold of a reprint of an 1863 "Confederate Recipt Book: A Compilation of Over One Hundred Receipts Adapted to the Times" copyright 1990 by Jefferson Davis Freeman. Reprinted here, (without permission) are several recipes used by resourceful confederates to lessen the hardships of a wartime blockade. The word "recipt" means "recipe". TABLE BEER To eight quarts of boiling water put a pound of treacle [molasses], a quarter of an ounce of ginger and two bay leaves, let this boil for a quarter of an hour, then cook, and work it with yeast as other beer. ANOTHER RECEIPT Eight quarts water, one quart molasses, one pint yeast, one tablespoon cream of tarter, mixed and bottled in twenty-four hours; or, to two pounds of coarse brown sugar add two gallons of water, and nearly two ounces hops. Let the whole boil three quarters of an hour, and then work as usual. It should stand a week or ten days before being drawn, and will improve daily afterward for a moderate time. SPRUCE BEER Take three gallons of water, blood warmth, three half pints of molasses, a tablespoon of essence of spruce, and the like quantity of ginger, mix well together with a gill of yeast, let it stand over night, and bottle in the morning. It will be in a good condition to drink in twenty-four hours. GINGER BEER One pint of molasses and two spoonfuls of ginger put into a pail, to be half filled with boiling water; when well stirred together, fill the pail with cold water, leaving room for one pint of yeast, which must not be put in until lukewarm. Place it on a warm hearth for the night, and bottle in the morning. I plan to try at least some of these, and assuming I survive, I'll let you know how they turn out. There is a whole mess of other recipes and tips here too, like Catsup and charcol tooth powder and toothache cures. If anyone is interested drop me a line and I'll let you know how I got my copy. Also, in my readings, I came upon quite a few other old recipes, such as Persimmon Beer (which looks like an alcoholic fruit drink), Corn Stalk Beer (yes, made from green corn stalks) and the beer recipe from a virginian gentleman named Geo. Washington. If I get enough mail requests (more than 5), I'll post those too. (Karl L., are you interested?) Intersting facts I learned: B. Franklin is credited with bringing a recipe for spruce beer back from France. There is also a recipe in the journal of a british governor that was written in 1760. Spruce beer was quite popular in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Eberhard Ahheuser was a soap manufacturer before inheriting a brewery. You may draw your own conclusions from this. Thomas Manteufel IOFB Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 91 09:07:03 -0400 From: Marc Light <light at cs.rochester.edu> Subject: Coffee Beer I mixed an espresso with 12oz of Bass ale at a Pub recently and was pleasantly surprised. Any thoughts on the proper technique for incorporating coffee in the brewing process? I'm sure this idea has been discussed before, thus perhaps replies via email would be the way to go. I was planning on making around a gallon of drip coffee, cooling it down and placing it in the primary with 2 gallons of fresh water before pouring the semi-cool wort in. What do you think? Marc Light ARPA: light at cs.rochester.edu Dept. of Computer Science UUCP: rutgers!rochester!light University of Rochester VOX: (716) 275-2569 Rochester NY 14627-0226 FAX: (716) 461-2018 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 91 08:41:00 CDT From: George.Fix at utamat ( gjfix at utamat.uta.edu ) Subject: Hot Wort Oxidation Ifor Williams asked (HBD #741) why Dave Miller would recommend against rough treatment of hot wort when there is already so much oxidation in the boil. I feel that Dave's recommendation is sound for the following reasons (which may or may not be his).First, the oxidation reactions in the boil are primarily with hop constituents. These reactions are poorly understood (at least by me),and some may even be beneficial.Rough treatment of the wort,on the other hand,tends to oxidize malt constituents generally called reductones.They are also oxidized in the boil(which results in an increase in wort color),but to a lesser extent than e.g. when hot wort is splashed during transfer. Oxidized reductones will interact with alcohols in beer (among other things) producing a variety of aldehydes.These tend to have an astrigent "grain bitter" flavors which are sometimes accompanied with a hard metallic finish.Ironically, reductones which are passed on to the finished beer in their reduced state tend to act as flavor protectors.They ultimately will become oxidized by headspace air (no beer has an infinite shelf life),but if the beer is kept cool during storage this will take a long time.Oxidation reaction rates increase exponentially with temperature. It is impossible to prevent some reductones from oxidizing either in the boil or elsewhere.But experience has shown that beer flavors tend to be more stable if the oxidation is held to a minimum when the wort is above say 40C(105F). Our yeast need O2 at the start of the fermentation.However,this is best suppliedafter the wort is chilled and just before the yeast are added. The above are qualitative trends only.To determine their quantitative relevance for own brewing systems,we need only examine the contributions from malt to the flavors of our beers.If they are smooth and rounded,and if these characteristics tend to be stable,then forget the above.If on the other hand, some of the flavor tones cited above are sometimes evident,then one might wish to take another look at the brewing procedures used. I tried to spell out the reaction systems in detail in my book on brewing science.I hope this brief summary is useful. Return to table of contents
Date: Monday, 21 Oct 1991 09:59:54 EDT From: m14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (John DeCarlo) Subject: Re: Miller's Book >From: Rad Equipment <Rad_Equipment at rad-mac1.ucsf.EDU> >Subject: RE: New Brewer suggested reading (J._ ) >JF> To Darryl: We'll have to wrassle about recommending >JF> Dave Miller's book. I think it's absolutely the wrong >JF> book for a beginning brewer... >I think Miller gave me a much better sense of the role of >sanitation and the actual brewing process (starch conversion, >fermentation, "breaks", etc) that has stuck with me. He comes to his subject with a very serious attitude. Let me add another $.02 worth. I read Papazian first and came away thinking it was cute but didn't really help me learn how to brew. I then read Miller and came away thinking it actually told me every step I needed to know in order to brew. I could actually write down my own variation of the procedure and feel confident I hadn't missed anything (and in retrospect, that was true). So, for people like me who would otherwise be nervous and worry, Miller is *much* better. Recipes are a whole 'nother issue. I liked Papazian for recipes until I tried one that was a dud. He is certainly more fun to read through, especially when you have more experience and knowledge to avoid much of the bad recommendations. BTW, I just recently switched from sucking to start the siphon. But my old theory was to drink lots of homebrew before starting, so that the homebrew yeast population was greater than any bacteria in my mouth :-). May not have been scientifically valid, but made siphoning more fun. Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org (or John.DeCarlo at f131.n109.z1.fidonet.org) Fidonet: 1:109/131 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 91 10:05:29 EDT From: Chris Shenton <chris at endgame.gsfc.nasa.gov> Subject: Brewing equipment setup? In HBD #744, Mike Sharp <msharp at cs.ulowell.edu> writes: > I'll be moving up a homemade stainless setup soon. Which prompts me to take this survey... I now mash 10 gallon batches in a big cooler (mash and sparge water directly from tap at 170F), boil in a topless keg (over two burners), then split to 2 carboys, then 2 coke/pepsi kegs. It's pretty straight forward, but could be improved. I'm casting about for ideas for a simple-to-use brewing setup -- perhaps gravity feed, no siphoning, etc -- maybe something like the triple bucket systems sketched in the Zymurgy adverts. My housemate's got a Oxy-Acetylene welding set and he's looking for a fun project :-) So, what do you semi-serious, equipment-happy folks use? I'm just looking for input and ideas, so all are welcome. Thanks. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 91 10:24:13 EDT From: Chris Shenton <chris at endgame.gsfc.nasa.gov> Subject: Re: Father Barleywine's yeast reuse trick -- first attempt (The heretic) Marc Rouleau <mer6g at fuggles.acc.Virginia.EDU> writes: Marc> Last spring I also stopped using bleach. I don't sanitize anything. Marc> Ordinary kitchen cleanliness standards (get the big chunks off!) have Marc> been sufficient for me. I don't keep my beer around for more than a Marc> few months though -- I don't know if it would keep for a year or more. This is fantastic -- it's great to hear all the old myths deflated! On the sanitation issue itself -- not the idea of iconoclasm -- it makes sense that if the wort is boiled, it's clean; the yeast-cake carboy must be too, and if you keg in a just-emptied keg, it too is clean (besides, at this point the alcohol should help prevent infections). Only one place I can see problems cropping up: the siphon hose from the cooled wort to the keg. Unless perhaps you use a counter-flow rather than immersion chiller. Any comments, Marc? I'm not necessarily advocating everyone throwing away their bleach -- just intrigued at how much aggravation can be eliminated by taking advantage of existing conditions and already-known-clean equipment. - -- relax, don't worry, ad nauseum... Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 91 09:28:31 EST From: KCDESCH at ucs.indiana.edu Subject: Collecting Yeast All this talk about repitching yeast from previous batches has motivated me to give it a try. I realize that sanitation is a great concern. But how does one remove the yeast from the secondary and store it before repitching so that no nasties get involved? I use british ale yeast for pale ales but I don't enjoy spending five bucks a pop. If anyone can give me some advice beforethe 25th of October I would sure appreciate it. the way, I thinh I've come to a decision about the use of a plastic fermenter. The general response to my question in the last digest about getting rid of the smell in my plastic primary fermenter was "good luck!" So I think I'll just have to sell some blood plasma and purchase a six gallon glass carboy. Plastic is too risky. Thanks for the advice and please send more about repitching yeast. Karl Desch KCDESCH at indiana.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 91 08:51:08 MDT From: resch at craycos.com (David Resch) Subject: Homebrew Digest #744 (October 21, 1991) > So, what is cara pils? Is it a malt that also goes by some other name? What > does it add to the brew? The other name for "cara pils" is dextrin malt. This malt is similar to crystal malt in that during processing the starchy endosperm becomes crystalized. The crystal, however, is almost colorless due to being kilned at a significantly lower temperature than crystal malt. Dextrin malt is suppose to add unfermentable dextrins, but very little color to the beer. The dextrins are suppose to add body, i.e., mouth-feel to the finished beer. I say "suppose to" in the previous two statements because they have been the subject of significant previous discussions in this forum. Specifically, it has been argued that if the dextrin malt is mashed, then a large portion of the dextrins are converted to simple sugars and so are fermented out and don't add much residual body to the beer. The other discussion has revolved around whether proteins or dextrins are primarily responsible for adding mouth-feel to beer. With that said, I use dextrin malt in some of my lighter beers and feel that it does indeed add some residual body to the finished product (and I do mash it with all of the other grains) Dave >From: dbeedle at rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu (Dave Beedle) >Subject: Request for info... > 1) Saaz hops - Where are they grown? Distinguishing characteristics. >Alpha content. Classic beers it is found in. That sort of info. Ahh, those Saaz hops!!! Saaz hops come primarily from a small hop-growing region near the town of Zatec in Czechoslovakia. Zatec is about 40 miles northwest of Prague. I believe that they are now grown in other places in Europe, but this is their place of origin and the majority of them still come from this region. Saaz hops are often described as having a "spicey" character. I'm not sure I totally agree, but they do impart a wonderful hoppy aroma and flavor to the beers they are added to. I don't have any information with me, but I believe that Saaz hops are fairly low alpha acid hops in the 3.5-4.0 percent range. They are used primarily in classic Pilsner style beers and I believe are the only hops used by the Pilsner Urquel brewery which produces the beer that defines the Pilsner style. Dave Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 91 10:52:32 EDT From: Chris Shenton <chris at endgame.gsfc.nasa.gov> Subject: OG of an ``Egge'' I don't suppose it would be too much trouble to plop an egg (shell on) into the wort and take a hydrometer reading when the width of a groat (about 1/16th inch?) is above the surface. But couldn't you do the same off-line by just dissolving sugar in water which has an egge in it, continuing to add sugar until the egge was at the appropriate displacement? Then just measure the SG of this solution. By the way, I assume the egge is raw when plopped into the wort, but becomes *hard* boiled after a while. This shouldn't change it's SG, should it? Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 91 09:41:03 MDT From: mlh at cygnus.ta52.lanl.gov (Michael L. Hall) Subject: Bartender's Guide I ftp'ed the bartender's guide from (alpha.physics.umr.edu) and I'm having trouble getting it to print out. I uncompressed and unshared it, then followed the instructions of: tbl bartender | troff -ms -t | lpr (among many other attempts). It prints out only part of the guide, and screws up the format considerably. I'm on a Sun Sparcstation 2 with an HP LJ-III printer. Is there another version of this file, perhaps in PostScript? It looks like it took a lot of effort to put this all together and I would really like to be able to use it. +----------------------------------------------------------------------+ | Michael L. Hall There are times, sir, when men of good conscience | | hall at lanl.gov cannot blindly follow orders. - Jean-Luc Picard | +----------------------------------------------------------------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1991 11:52 CDT From: "Acid should be leagal in Art class." <2681ZINGELMA at vmsf.csd.mu.edu> Subject: Mead Recipes Hi! I want to try my hand at making mead, but I thought I'd ask for some good recipes first. My tastes go more towards the sparkling meads than the still ones, but I'll appreciate either. If you think other HBD readers will like 'em, go ahead and post the recipes. Otherwise email me at: 2681zingelma at vms.csd.mu.edu Thanks in advance! Pete ____________________________________________________________________________ | "...then the bird flew over and the | | Pete Zingelman at Marquette U. '''' earth stood still, but only for a | | 2681zingelma at vms.csd.mu.edu c-00 moment as the closing chill, of | | 1716 W. Wisconsin #312 _ o reality awakened me, and crushed | | Milwaukee WI 53233 / \ my dreams. | | -P.Z. | ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Mon Oct 21 10:43:34 1991 From: microsoft!larryba at cs.washington.edu Subject: Re: Chrishmas (HBD#744) Bill Thacker: The recipe for christmas ale calling for 10lb of extract malt would certainly get you an OG > .070. If you look at Miller (TCHOHB). The SG/lb/gal for malt extracts (and honey) is ~.040, for dry extract it is .044. Simple math will tell you what your OG *will* be: 3.5lb * .040 - syrup 3.5lb * .044 - dry extract .75lb * .040 - honey ---- .324 / 5.0 - final volume ---- 1.065 - OG If you throw another 3lb of dry extract into the boil the calucated OG would be (Golly, guess what!) 1.088!!! Cheers! Larry Barello P.S. I believe in "Brewing as a Science" for those things easily calculated and measured, "Brewing as an Art" for the rest. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 91 17:45:48 EDT From: hersh at expo.lcs.mit.edu Subject: RE- New Brewer suggested reading Russ & JF, and any one else interested. I ALWAYS recommend Byron Burches book to new brewers. While this book typically only takes the new brewer through the first few batches, it has a lot of merits. It is inexpensive, easy to read, packed with get you started info, pictures & recipes. I think it is the best "get you off the ground book" out there. - JaH Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 91 20:07 GMT From: "KATMAN.WNETS385" <6790753%356_WEST_58TH_5TH_FL%NEW_YORK_NY%WNET_6790753 at mcimail.com> Subject: recipes Date: 21-Oct-91 Time: 04:06 PM Msg: EXT02116 Hi folks, I have a few recipes for cooking with beer. They were in the paper last week. If anyone wants them, e-mail me. If I get more than a few, I'll post to the digest. I bottled an xmas porter last week. It was far thinner than I anticipated, Could this have been due to insufficiently cracked grains? There was also a bit of white scum around the top edges of the beer. How can I tell if this was bacteria or wild yeast? The beer tasted ok, although due to the orange peel and spices, it was a bit sharp. I anticipating this mellowing by xmas. Recipe: (5 gallons) 6.6 lbs light malt extract crystal malt (about two double handfuls) chocolate malt (about one double handful) cluster hops chinook hops calcium carbonate irish moss M&F ale yeast 6 cinnamon sticks 10 cloves about 1 inch grated fresh ginger peel of 3 oranges (grated, no pith) I crushed the grains, steeped them for barley tea, and took them out when the boil started. Put the malt in and the cinnamon, cloves and cluster hops. I grated the rinds and ginger in as the boil commenced (getting the last of the orange rind in only about 5 min. before the end). I put in the chinook hops 1/2 at 15 min and the rest at 25 min. Put cold water in a carboy, strained my wort in, sloshed a lot, and let cool overnight. Pitched a starter the next morning, and the fermenting seemed to run its course in about 2 days. Wow! We did have 95+ temps those days.... I also had a massive boilover (mom always calls at the worst times...). It sat in primary for 2 weeks, then sat in secondary for 2-3. We bottled last week, and it tasted ok for flat, warm beer. No noticeable spice, the fruit gave it a small bit of acid tang. Of course, we'll be tasting it every 2-3 weeks between now and xmas just to see how it develops. Next batch I plan to try to use my hydrometer. This was a kit from BarleyMalt and Vine and I added the spice and fruit. They make nice kits. 617-327-0089. Lee Katman == Thirteen/WNET == New York, NY =Do not= use REPLY or ANSWERBACK, I can not receive mail in that fashion. Please send all mail to INTERNET katman.wnets385%wnet_6790753 at mcimail.com OR MCIMAIL EMS: wnet 6790753 MBX: katman.wnets385 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 91 17:00:30 -0700 From: eapu045 at orion.oac.uci.edu Subject: Orange County brewing. There is a homebrew store in Orange that also has a brewclub meeting once a month I beleive. Fun Fermentations (714) 532-6831. You could try contacting Bear Drinkers of America, there headquarters are located right here in Costa Mesa. Good luck and please let me know what you find out. Jason eapu045 at orion.uci.edu anteaters brew Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #745, 10/22/91 ************************************* -------
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