HOMEBREW Digest #781 Fri 13 December 1991

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  DEFUSION (Jack Schmidling)
  HBD no. 779 (12-11-91) ("Dr. John")
  premix/postmix (korz)
  How do you develop a yeast culture?  Discussion? (Eric Mintz)
  Copper scrubber clogging (Darren Evans-Young)
  Fwd: STUFF (Peter Glen Berger)
  Re: STUFF (Jack Schmidling)
  Transporting Homebrew (FWALTER)
  comments on homebrewing (FWALTER)
  RE:  Artichokes and beer (S94TAYLO)
  Zymurgy gadget issue (John S. Link)
  Transporting homebrew (Robin Garr)
  Carry-on beer on commercial flights (dbreiden)
  RE: Homebrew Digest #780 (December 12, 1991) (DAVID)
  Seattle Brewpubs (STAFINIAK)
  Re: Bunratty Meade (Gordon Baldwin)
  cold break, mash out (Russ Gelinas)
  Traveling with Homebrew (IO10676)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #778 (December 10, 1991) (WEH)
  Re: Stuff it Jack (Jason Goldman)
  Bad Apples (Ford Prefect)
  Kegging Systems (Brian Midura)
  What makes top top or bottom bottom (Mike Dobres)
  Cold Break ("John Cotterill")
  English Bitter Extract recipes (AEW)
  Sam Adams claims (Jay Hersh)
  planes&Corsendonk (Marcel Levy)
  Corona grain mills ("Dr. John")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 11 Dec 91 12:10 CST From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: DEFUSION To: Homebrew Digest Fm: Jack Schmidling [At the end of all this is some new business...] From: "Dr. John" <JELJ at CORNELLA.cit.cornell.edu> Subject: Well, excuuuuuuse me! :-) > In the interest of helping start the process, at least in a small way, I'd like to restate the gist of my posting in #774. Rather than re-invent the wheel, the following are my (JS) comments from email, sans personal stuff.... > What you perceived as arrogance wasn't intended that way, We both seem to have a "tone of voice" problem. Sorry if I misread you. > I have reread the article in question, and I beg to differ. I see no indication of the number of portions brought to a boil. If we limit our discussion here to only those "decoctions" which are boiled during the conversion rest, we probably don't need more than 2, or at most 3, for temperature maintenance during a 60-minute conversion rest. I guess you would have to read between the lines and actually do the procedure to get the full meaning. There are two 60 min "rests" and a 30 minute "rest". Furthermore, the time required to bring each step to temperature adds another hour or more. The number of quart sized "decoctions" is considerable. Possibly, more than the whole batch size. I also, used the term "partial decoction" in describing my process to indicate that it is a hybrid technique and not necessarly by the book. >An acid rest, I presume. Might it not be easier, and more expeditious, to accomplish the acidification with gypsum (when appropriate) or lactic acid? Reinheightsgbot prevails at the JSP Brewery. I even use organically grown grain. >And why not do something about the chlorine which so many of us find in our tap water, or is that taken care of by using the hot water? I either use previously boiled water or set out the dough-in water the night before to de-chlorinate. It is very critical to get it out before mixing with the grain as it will combine with the organics and form nitrosamines. >A protein rest, I presume. Any particular reason you chose 120 degrees? Some authors (Miller, p.117; Noonan, p.112; to name two) imply that 122 degrees is optimal. Is an hour really necessary? I've had good luck with 30 minutes for all-barley-malt beers, and 45 minutes for wheat beers. First of all, controlling temp throughout the mash to 2 degs, is beyond anything I am capable of doing. It would be just as useless to have changed the number to 122 as to really attempt to do it. This may seem a bit arbitrary and even bazzare but someone posted the profile that came with a computer controlled, electronic masher he just purchased and I simply used it as a starting point. >But if ease is the overriding concern wouldn't it be simpler to use a stiff mash and additions of heat and boiling water for temperature maintenance? No doubt. I was trying to get the word out while working on the process. I am really pushing the enamel kettle, screen and pipe system as an inexpensive and effective way to get into whole grain. You will note the first article on the subject totally avoided discussing the process because I didn't know where I was going with it. I wanted to do everything right and them back off to simplify it. I needed a target to shoot at. > I must say that I remain unconvinced that your procedure does "pretty much the same thing" as a true decoction mash. Perhaps, [some of the same things], would have been a better choice of words. I would also like to point out that (if I didn't in the article) that boiling under the false bottom is to be avoided because of the risk of burning whatever is under it. Furthermore, I no longer use a false bottom so it is not even relevant. .......................... NOW, on to new business..... Last weekend I brewed up a batch with the same ingredients as my standard "generic ale" and did a "single" temp infusion. The bottom line is that I lost about 5 points in starting gravity and a gallon of wort for other reasons, so the loss is a bit more than 5. The good news is that I finished by tea time instead of the usual, watching the kettle boil with dinner in my hand. I put single in quotes because it bacame obvious during the infusion that this is not a valid test. As it took about an hour to bring the mash from room temp to 154 degs, one could hardly call it a single temperature. It spent enough time around the key rest temperatures to have had some influence on the end results, if these rest temps really do have a purpose. I suspect that a true single temp infusion would yield an even greater delta in the SG. ......... I think the jury (mine anyway) is still out on the boiling sparge water issue. I think most of the references do not take into consideration the heat losses in a small batch. For example, with boiling water going in, the temp of the wort coming out of the mash kettle is about 130 degs. This of course depends on the rate of sparging but the experts say the slower the better so the heat problem gets worse as the sparge time increases. Unfortunately, I did not have the sense to measure the temp of the water on top of or within the mash but I would not be surprised to find it nowhere near boiling and just about where we want it. I seem to have a problem remembering more than one thing at a time but I will measure it next time. In the meantime, this is what my intuition is based on.... There is about 3 gallons of water in the mash and an inch of water on top. The boiling water dribbles into a small soup bowl that is nested in the grain and the rim is just below or at the water level. Only the water in the bowl is near boiling and it is all downhill from there to 130 degs. At the very worst, it seems like we might get something like a mash-out while sparging, whatever that might be worth. js Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 91 17:14:32 EST From: "Dr. John" <JELJ at CORNELLA.cit.cornell.edu> Subject: HBD no. 779 (12-11-91) Seasons Greetings all, First, I'd like to thank those of you who e-mailed me regarding my questioning of the suitability of Klages for a single temperature infusion mash. I've decided that I'll go ahead with it, and deal with any haze, if necessary, at bottling time. Regarding today's digest (#779): Ross Haywood: I don't have the definitive answer, but suspect that brewing predates the discovery of the "recipe" for stainless steel. I suspect that your friend is mistaken, and that there are indeed quite a few copper-only kettles in breweries around the world, and probably were quite a few more in days gone by. Norm Pyle (and TSAMSEL): With a 4-year old and a 1-year old sharing the house with me and my wife, interruptions are inevitable. I try to schedule the stages of my brewups around those that I can forecast, and just go with the flow on the rest. I'm going to try a new approach, for me, this Friday-- nightime brewing. Shouldn't be so many interruptions after the boys are in their jammies and safely tucked in for the night. Steve Boege: I think that the 25 years is a reference to Thomas Hardy Ale. Rumour has it that you don't even want to consider drinking this stuff till it is at least 5 years old. If you are confident in your sanitation procedures I wouldn't think that you'd have much to worry about if you aged your barleywine for 5 years, though you might want to taste one every 6 months or so just to make sure it isn't going off :-). I've got some pretty elderly brews lurking in my basement, from a few batches I made 2-1/2 to 3 years ago, and they are mostly still quite drinkable. And most of these were from OGs of ~ 1.050. If you can fit the case "under the seat in front of you or in the overhead compartment" there doesn't seem to be any reason that they should hassle you. When I was living out west, family members brought me half-cases of beer from "God's Country" (Wisconsin for those of you who may be wondering) a couple times with no problems (they carried it on). Jack Schmidling: I, for one, appreciated the tone of your posting today. Noonan does have a tendency to wander occasionally, and on a first reading even seems to contradict himself from time to time. But, I've found that after a few rereadings I can usually ferret out at least the seeds of some useful information to build on. From my readings of Noonan I've concluded that you want to boil, to the extent possible, only the thickest part of the mash for all but the final decoction. The point of the final decoction is to halt any further enzymatic activity, and this is when you want to boil the thinnest portion, as this is where the enzymes are reputedly lurking. Jay Hersh: Maybe you are only halfway in the water :-). Noonan does indeed instruct us to boil the decoction, for up to 45 minutes in some cases, prior to returning it to the main mash. With the enzymes mostly in the liquid part and the thick part being boiled (except for the final decoction) there isn't too much degradation of enzymatic activity. Now, on the question of astringency arising from decoctions, I'm at a loss, but hope someone else has some good information. It hasn't been a problem for me in the decoction-mashed beers I've made, but I'd sure like to know why this is. Anyone out there who knows? Jeff Frane: Glad to know that I'm not the only one around who actually enjoys cranking the old Corona by hand. Hell, it's some of the only exercise I get :-). Russ Gelinas: Any chance that you can track down the date on that Times article? I'd like to read it, but a quick perusal of Monday and Tuesday's issues failed to uncover it for me. Rich Kempinski: Clorax, eh? Is this stuff any relation to that cute little booger who "speaks for the trees?" :-) Ooogy wawa, Dr. John Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 91 17:12 CST From: korz at ihlpl.att.com Subject: premix/postmix I used to work in a bar and there we had postmix soft drinks. I looked into the difference between premix and postmix back then and here's what I found out: Premix is *complete* soda. Postmix is syrup which is mixed with carbonated water at the tap. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 91 16:35:55 MST From: Eric Mintz <ericm at bach> Subject: How do you develop a yeast culture? Discussion? After tasting a variety of homebrews at a recent homebrewers party, I am finally convinced that yeast really matters (that is, the quality and type -- especially liquid vs. dry)! After you experience the oders and aftertastes dry yeast imparts to the brew, you can recognise a beer brewed with dry yeast in a New York minute. All that to say that I am going to start experimenting with liquid yeast in future batches. From the discussions in this newsgroup, that suggests to me that I will probably end up culturing yeast to squeeze more than one batch of beer out of it. The discussions I've read so far agree that you can only use a few generations of propagated yeast before if begins to degenerate. My question is this: how did the brewmeisters in the "olden days" (i.e. before availability of high-tech equipment) culture their yeast? My understanding is that they didn't even know what did the fermenting until the late 1800s. At some point, they had to begin with wild yeast. Then, from that, they cultured an ale or lager. Then there are several other imporant attributes of the yeast to culture (e.g. attenuation level, etc.). Anyone know the history of yeast culturing and, much more importantly to us pragmatics, how we can do it at home? Finally, has anyone out there had any luck with local wild yeasts (like the Belgians did)? Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 91 21:20:01 CST From: Darren Evans-Young <DARREN at UA1VM.UA.EDU> Subject: Copper scrubber clogging Regarding the use of copper scrubbers... I quit using copper and started using the plastic version due to definite metallic tastes in my brews. But the following still applies: I had been using the copper scrubber with a muslin bag over it for many batches. As my procedures became more streamlined, I found that the bag started getting clogged. I have since discovered why. After the boil, I would immediately start siphoning through my counterflow chiller. There was so much particulate matter floating in the wort, it would clog up my pickup. Solution: After the boil, I give a good circular swirl with my spoon, cover the pot and let it sit for at least 15-30 minutes. This gives the protein goop time to settle while I drink another homebrew. After that time, I start siphoning and all I get is clear wort...no more clogging! So if you're having that problem, let your wort sit for a bit before you start siphoning. Darren *---------------------------------------------------------------------------* | Darren Evans-Young Internet: DARREN at UA1VM.UA.EDU | | The University of Alabama Phone: (205)348-3988 / 5380 | | Tuscaloosa, Alabama 35487-0346 (205)348-3993 FAX | *---------------------------------------------------------------------------* Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1991 00:08:32 -0500 (EST) From: Peter Glen Berger <pb1p+ at andrew.cmu.edu> Subject: Fwd: STUFF I E-mailed Jack Schmidling an explained that I had access to a metalshop, and requested detailed instructions on how to build my own grain mill. Here is the response I received. I have edited it, but retain a copy of the full text for all interested parties. - ---------- Forwarded message begins here ---------- From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: Re: STUFF To: pb1p+ at andrew.cmu.edu (Peter Glen Berger) Date: Wed, 11 Dec 91 8:10:51 CST In-Reply-To: <sdFCQgW00VoRQIvAhB at andrew.cmu.edu>; from "Peter Glen Berger" at Dec 10, 91 11:11 am X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.3 PL11] Details are up to you but here is enough to get you started... GRAIN MILL [21 lines of ad copy explaining what a grain mill is deleted] ......................... The mill consists of two 1.5 in rollers, driven by a 1/30 HP electric motor. The motor drives one of the rollers through a set of reduction pullies at a speed of about 300 RPM. The other is driven by rubber friction rings from the first. It is designed to stall in the event of unwitting attempts to mill fingers. It will smart but not much more. The rollers are 12 inches long and have meshing teeth running their entire length. In cross section, they look like fine toothed gears. However, the rollers are spaced about .05 inch apart so the teeth do not actually mesh. Their purpose is to pull the grain through the rollers. The spacing assures that the grain will only be crushed enough to expose the contents without tearing the hulls. The assembly is mounted on a plywood base, 18 inches square. It is intended to sit on a table, with the business end hanging over the edge. Operation consists of slowly pouring the grain into a hopper and catching the milled product in a pan or bucket underneath. It takes less than a minute to mill a pound of grain. It could be made to work much faster but I was more concerned about safety than speed. The product that emerges looks like a picture out of a text book on brewing. This is normally only obtainable through a series of rollers whose spacing gets progressively closer. By using the toothed rollers, we are able to achieve the same results in one step. [ pricing information deleted ] arf at ddsw1.mcs.com --------------------- end forwarded message --------------------- Jack says that the rollers are expensive and he will only purchase them to order. Rather than making you go to all this trouble, Jack, feel free to simply E-mail me the address and phone number of your supplier, and I'll take care of it myself. I'll even post the answer to the net so that you don't have to get flamed about wasting bandwidth. Oh, and if you want to send me schematics of your grain mill (C.O.D., of course), my address is: Peter Berger 5373 Beeler St. Pittsburgh, PA 15217 Like I said, I don't have $200 to spend, and I wouldn't want to put you to the trouble of building me one when I can do it myself. If mailing the schematics is too much trouble, however, I can give you a fax number which will pass them on to me. Of course, if you need to fax it from Kinko's or something I'll pay the cost. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Pete Berger || ARPA: peterb at cs.cmu.edu Professional Student || Pete.Berger at andrew.cmu.edu Univ. Pittsburgh School of Law || BITNET: R746PB1P at CMCCVB Attend this school, not CMU || UUCP: ...!harvard!andrew.cmu.edu!pb1p - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ "Goldilocks is about property rights. Little Red Riding Hood is a tale of seduction, rape, murder, and cannibalism." -Bernard J. Hibbits - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1991 02:44 EST From: FWALTER%RULUPI at ccmail.sunysb.edu Subject: Transporting Homebrew I've had no trouble checking a case of homebrew with United. I do get differing reactions from the agent. Some say OK, others want assurance that nothing will leak, and then proceed to put the case in double plastic bags. But it's always gotten there with me. Carryon is a different matter. I've been able to carry on small boxes (a dozen bottles) with no question; on another occasion I was requested to prove that the bottles contained beer (by drinking it then and there). On that occasion, only 5 bottles got where they were going. Your best bet is to call the airline. You shouldn't necessarily believe them, but... Fred Walter Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1991 02:46 EST From: FWALTER%RULUPI at ccmail.sunysb.edu Subject: comments on homebrewing Last night I made a batch of beer. Nothing unusual - it was batch number 54 (I average about 10 batches a year) - but it was my first since subscribing to HBD. Until October I'd never realized there was so much to worry about! Actually, I started 2 days ago. I boiled 4 gallons of water. May as well get the chlorine out. I presume there's nothing left alive in there. My mentor when I started brewing out in Boulder, Colonel John, suggested this. I poured the water into gallon plastic milk jugs, put them in a cold water bath, and left them overnight in the basement, chilled to about 40F. I sterilize with bleach. Rather than measuring a teaspoon per 5 gallons (or whatever is lethal to the wee beaties), I just pour a bit in and then fill the carboy with water. It hasn't failed yet. Why take chances with sanitation? The temperature in the basement has dropped below 60F, so it's lager season. I'm an extract brewer - perhaps I'm lazy, but extract beer is easy and tastes great anyway. I crushed some crystal malt (I wanted 4 oz, poured 6, and decided to use it all because it was easier than trying to put it back in through the small hole in the bag) with a rolling pin on a cookie sheet. Works fine, even for the harder grains like black patent and roasted barley, and keeps those beer-mug-lifting muscles in shape. My 4 year old daughter can crack crystal. I dumped the cracked malt into 1.5 gal water in my 4 gal pot (the most expensive item in my brewery), brought things to a boil, and strained out the grains with a kitchen strainer. Got most of them. Then I added about 6 lb of dry malt extract to the wort. This is messy. Is there a good way of pouring dry malt extract into hot wort? Too fast and the wort splashes out of the pot; too slow and the extract absorbs the steam and sticks to the bag. The stuff in cans at least comes sticky, and can be forced into the pot with a rubber scraper. I subscribe to the principle that a watched pot never boils (I have lost some while not looking). As boil approaches, stir occasionally, and be prepared to lift the pot off the stove (I hate electric stoves - gas provides much more responsive temperature control). I do have boilover problems with my Dopplebock - 2 gallons of water and 12 lb of extract in the pot leaves little head space. I found some old hops in the freezer. They've been in there since August. Didn't smell as aromatic as they should, so I pitched 2 oz rather than 1 for bittering. The wort smelled fine, and not too bitter (my family, too, dislikes the smell). I tossed in an ounce of fresh hop pellets at T-2m for aroma. Then I carried the pot of wort to the basement, dumped a gallon of cold water in the carboy, and proceeded to sparge the wort into the carboy. By my calculations, 200F wort + 40F water, in roughly a 2:3 proportion, gives a final temperature of 90-100F. My hand tells me its lukewarm too. Who needs fancy wort chillers? So I pitched the yeast. Red Star. One package. Hasn't failed me yet. Tonight it is bubbling nicely. The carboy is clear glass - my basement has fluorescent lights. Should I worry? I've given up on measuring the original gravity. Beer clearly stratifies, and I see no point adding potential contaminants by stirring things up. If I need the OG, I can estimate it from the materials used, I suppose. But then, my friends have never inquired about the gravity. In a week or so I'll dump 60 bottles in the sink, pour in too much bleach, and let them soak overnight prior to bottling. I get a contaminated bottle maybe once every fifth batch. I'll also throw in some labelled bottles. Soaking overnight in bleach will remove almost anything (except Sam Adams labels). If the labels don't float off, I grab a plastic dish scrubber and scrub. Wet paper isn't very strong. I use only brown tall neck bottles, mostly Coors, Piels, and Olympia. It's cheap, and refreshing on a hot summer day. You don't always want a ((your favorite brew here)). I also use Sam Adams bottles, although they are thinner, lighter in color, and, I suspect, not as strong. Should I worry? Most HBD writers seem far more serious about their avocation. I make beer it because it's fun, costs less, and tastes great. I don't care it it could pass for brand X, or if I used the wrong style of hops. Only one of my batches was my best ever, but all were very good. Haven't made one even close to undrinkable yet (I'm convinced the trick is all in the sanitation). I think I'll continue not to worry about anything I read in HBD. Cheers, Fred Walter Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 91 08:26 EST From: <S94TAYLO%USUHSB.bitnet at VTVM2.CC.VT.EDU> Subject: RE: Artichokes and beer For the longest time I thought medical school wasn't doing me any good, that I wasn't learning anything. Boy, how wrong I was! There is a certain chemical (still undiscovered by medical science) in artichokes that make everything taste sweet. The chemical supposedly interacts with certain neurons in certain types of taste buds that shifts your perception of tastes toward the sweet sided. To prove this theory, eat an artichoke before drinking a glass of plain water. It will taste sweet... Now I've got to go to a pathology lecture. Oh, well, duty calls... Al Taylor Uniformed Services University School of Medicine Bethesda, Maryland Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 91 8:45:48 EST From: John S. Link <link at prcrs.prc.com> Subject: Zymurgy gadget issue A question for those of you who have purchased the Zymurgy special issue "Homebrewers and their gadgets". Did you find it useful? By participating in Homebrew, have I already read about all the 'gadgets' that they cover in this issue? How about the grain issue? I'm currently an extract with 'grain tea' brewer but want to venture into all grain soon. Is it a 'must read'? I don't want to buy them if it will be repeat reading. Thanks, John Return to table of contents
Date: 12 Dec 91 09:38:49 EST From: Robin Garr <76702.764 at compuserve.com> Subject: Transporting homebrew With regard to Mike Carr's comments and request for information on carrying homebrew on board commercial flights and shipping brew interstate, a couple of thoughts: * I have repeatedly been assured by BATF officials that there is NO federal law prohibiting individuals from sending alcohol across state lines. The feds took themselves out of that business after Repeal. * Complicating the situation, however, is that each of the 50 states has its own rules regarding the receipt of alcohol by its citizens from non-commercial sources. Some ban it, some merely would seek to tax it, and some don't care. * In any case, you cannot legally send alcohol via the United States Postal Service. I assume this is the result of Congressional blue-noses. The law provides fines and prison time; I seriously doubt that this would be enforced against individuals mailing small amounts for private consumption, and the chances are that you could do it withoug being found out. It's probably not a good idea, however, and the least that would happen in case of discovery is confiscation. :-( * Most of the private mail services, like UPS, won't knowingly accept alcohol for shipment between individuals, but this is a matter of their own policy and not (no matter what their agents may try to tell you) a matter of law. In practice, most home brewers ship their goods, carefully packaged, via UPS, not identifying them as beer and accepting the reality that any claims for loss will be rejected. Some folks like to use smirking euphemisms like "yeast cultures" on the address form, but I think this risks probing questions. I like "non-perishable food gifts" myself. It's not a lie. * Finally, I have often carried homebrew on commercial flights without incident. The security folks DO want to know about unmarked bottles, and this is reasonable. But remember, it's LEGAL to brew, and it's LEGAL to give it to friends. Don't be furtive, be forthright. "Yes, this is home-brewed beer, and it is legal." Remember, the security authorities (besides being minimum-wage rent-a-cops of limited education) are more likely to be worried about a nervous passenger who's obviously lying about something than they are about a brewer who's toting something that he has every right to tote. Robin Garr, associate sysop CompuServe Wine and Beer Forum 76702.764 at compuserve.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 91 10:21:19 -0500 From: dbreiden at mentor.cc.purdue.edu Subject: Carry-on beer on commercial flights I was rather concerned with the prospect of transporting homebrew and brew in general last spring. When I asked for help form the digest, the scariest story I heard came from Pete Soper (whatever happened to him anyway?) who spent a long time in an airport talking to security people and their superiors and more superiors before someone finally called the tower. Someone in the tower told them all to quit being stupid. The line was that if the bottles are sealed and stay sealed --- no problem. >From that, I surmise that if some person chose to question your claim that the liquid is beer (home brewed or not) then you would have to prove it --- I don't know. Oh, in addition, Pete found that the bottles of homwbrew with HOMEMADE labels did not get questioned -- even when he explicitly told the security folks that those contained homebrew as well. On to MY experience. Armed with this story and the knowledge that I was doing nothing wrong, I went to the airport plenty early in case of hassles. At the Indianapolis airport, one person asked me if those were bottles in my carry on. I responded in the affirmative. No one bothered me after that. I had no trouble in the Minneapolis airport. Coming home, I had 12 bottles of microbrewed beer AND 6 little bottles of Old Knucklehead barleywine. (Quite a load for carry on!) In the Portland airport, a guy asked me if Ihad a case of beer in my pack. I answered thatr I only had a half case (honest! I forgot about the little bottles for a moment!) -- the guy nodded and left me alone. In Detroit (didn't pass through Minneapolis on the way home) no one raised eyebrows or anything. I think the one thing you can be sure of when you pack beer as carry-on is that your mileage WILL vary. Someone, somewhere, once found an authoritative reference to the legality of this, but I don't know where, who, what, etc. about that -- it wouldn't hurt to be armed with this, a little extra time, and a good deal of politeness when you travel. Another option is to check it through -- I've nto done it; it sounds a bit nerve racking. But you could get more home that way! - --Danny before someone called Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1991 10:13:25 -0500 (EST) From: POORE at SCRI1.SCRI.FSU.EDU (DAVID) Subject: RE: Homebrew Digest #780 (December 12, 1991) Please remove me form the mailing list. David Poore poore at gw.scri.fsu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 91 10:30 EST From: STAFINIAK at hermes.psycha.upenn.edu Subject: Seattle Brewpubs A "friend" of mine is taking a holiday trip to Seattle. While this 'friend' is NOT taking me along, she wants to use me, and my connections to the HBD, for info on good brewpubs, micros, etc. in the Seattle area. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance, Paul STAFINIAK at HERMES.PSYCHA.UPENN.EDU Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 91 08:13:00 pst From: Gordon Baldwin <hpubvwa.nsr.hp.com!sherpa2!gbaldwin> Subject: Re: Bunratty Meade My wife and I tried Bunratty Meade when we were in Ireland 4 years ago. The Bunratty Castle has a fun mideavel (sp?) dinner, in which they serve their Meade. It is heaver than I am use to ( I make a mead using 10-15Lb honey for a 5 gallon batch). I didn't know it was made with white wine, but that would explain some of the flavor. It has a kind of cheap wine overtone to the normal mead flavor. I was a bit dissapointed by the flavor at first because it was not what I was ready for, but after a couple of glasses I adjusted and I found it quit enjoyable %-). Right next to Bunratty is Durty Nellies. This pub has been around since the castle was built. (or so I was told) We sat in the corner by piano and sang show tunes with the local Irish. I don't know many pints of Guiness I drank, but the only one I had to pay for was the first %-). The only problem with Ireland was it was the only place in europe that we had a language problem. We were with friends from Cork and when they drink they get very hard to understand. Gordon Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1991 10:58:44 -0500 (EST) From: R_GELINAS at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas) Subject: cold break, mash out I'd like to second the opinion that "beginners" shouldn't feel shy about asking "dumb" questions. Discussions of "simple" processes like cold break often lead to more in-depth analysis of brewing. I've also run into more than a couple of "experts" who could benefit from a discussion of the simpler brewing concepts, but would never ask about them. So jump right in. Florian (with the great family attitude!) said he doesn't mash out. I've never mashed out either, but was wondering if maybe I should. I suppose if you are trying for an exact OG/FG then it might matter, but I'm not all that concerned. Should I be? BTW, there are a couple more definitions of cold break: (n) Any vacation time in New England in the winter. (n) When the cold you picked up from your vacation in New England in the winter finally starts to go away. Russ G. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 91 11:12:00 EST From: IO10676 at maine.maine.edu Subject: Traveling with Homebrew Another data point on carrying HB on airlines . . . Last summer I flew from Des Moines to Key West to visit family, and I carried 16 bottles of HB in mychecked baggage. Packed securely, of course - I wrapped it in umpteen layers of newspaper and surrounded it on all sides by clothes. It probably would've been a good idea to put it in a plastic bag too, but I didn't think of it. Anyway, it arrived just fine, and the airlines gave me no trouble. I don't know about carry-on, but HB in checked baggage seems to be just fine. String Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 91 11:38:22 EST From: WEH%FDACFSAN.bitnet at VTVM2.CC.VT.EDU Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #778 (December 10, 1991) qquit Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 91 09:57:18 -0700 From: Jason Goldman <jason at gibson.sde.hp.com> Subject: Re: Stuff it Jack Al Taylor says: > Building a grainmill is NOT rocket science, nor is it even close > to brain surgery. You take two plates that grind when moved against each > other, maybe hooking one up to a power take-off or a crank. THAT'S IT, > Jack. Some of us are just interested in how you put YOUR two plates > together and connected it to a drive. Actually, I was under the impression that Jack had built a roller mill, not a grinder. The difference is that a roller mill allows the plates to be positioned at a known distance from each other and they won't touch each other. I've seen a couple of roller mills and, while I think it would be easy enough for Jack to describe the basic design, I also think that the metal working involved could be non-trivial. Jason jason at gibson.sde.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 91 07:38:14 -0800 From: sag5004 at yak.boeing.com (Ford Prefect) Subject: Bad Apples I don't know if this is the right place to ask this question, but I imagine that I'll find out soon enough :-) I have made an attempt at apple cider. I pressed a whole mess of apples and created about 10 gal. of cider. Aprox 3 gal went to instant consumption (it was really good). And the remaining 7 gallons went into a couple of carboys. I added ale yeast (i think Whitbred), yeast nutrient, ??? acid and couple of other things that the guy at the beer supply shop told me to. I picked these ingredients up from the wine making shelf. Anyhow- the fermentation went crazy for about 2.5 weeks (lots of bubbles) and it kept filling up my blow-off bucket. While kegging another batch of real beer I kegged this stuff too, as the gravity was almost 1.008 or so. I had a taste at this time and it tasted like vinegar (blech!) The guy at the shop mentioned som sort of sucrose that might help. Sorry about the ramblin' but here is my question. Is there any thing I can do to save this stuff? I had hopes of being able to have a nice glass of hard cider sometime this winter. If saving this stuff is hopeless does anybody know what to do with ~7gal of apple vinegar? :-( stuart galt boeing computer services sag5004 at yak.boeing.com bellvue washington (206) 865-3764 or home (206) 361-0190 #include <standard/disclaim.h> I don't know what they say, they don't know what I say... Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 91 12:58:54 EST From: Brian Midura <midura at ctron.com> Subject: Kegging Systems I have read a little on kegging system but would appreciate if any one could send me information on the different options.... I am looking for flexiblity in a kegging system. I would like the ability to use softdrink and standard kegs, (those gotten from places such as the cambridge brewery) I would appreciate and information on thethis topic.... please send mail to midura at ctron as not to excessively clutter the HBG Brian Midura Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 91 13:12:12 EDT From: Mike Dobres <DOBRES%DUVM at pucc.PRINCETON.EDU> Subject: What makes top top or bottom bottom Just curious -What makes top fermenting yeast float more than bottom fermenting yeast? Perhaps someting to do with cell/cytoplasmic density or C02 retained by cell - I dunno - Any ideas? Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 91 11:09:48 PST From: "John Cotterill" <johnc at hprpcd.rose.hp.com> Subject: Cold Break Full-Name: "John Cotterill" After I do my 5-gallon boil, I pass the hot wort thru my chiller and straight into the fermentation vessel, where I immediately pitch the yeast (at about 68 degrees). Is this undesirable? After the chill phase, should I let the cold break settle out and then transfer the liquid into yet another vessel? John johnc at hprpcd.rose.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: 12 Dec 91 15:19:18 EST From: AEW at b30.prime.com Subject: English Bitter Extract recipes Fellow Brewers: I recently brewed an all-extract batch using the following recipe based roughly on the recipe for 'Beginner's Bitter' From Miller's book. 4.3 Lbs. Light Unhopped Malt Extract 1.0 Lbs. Light Unhopped Spray Malt 1.0 cup Dark Brown Shugar 2.0 oz. Fugles hop pellets (Boil) 1.0 oz. Fugles hop pellets (20 min steep post-boil) 3/4 cup Corn Shugar (Priming) Whitbread Ale Yeast (Dry) This was a 5 gal. batch. For my first try the clerk at the local brewing supply store recommended Light Extract instead of amber. I should probably have insisted on Amber since I like Darker Beers, but this was my first batch and I took his advise. The beer has been bottled for a while and upon tasting it, I have come to two conclusions: 1) The beer is too light for what I am used to calling bitter. (I am using my memories of Whitbread Bitter on tap in Cambridge, England for comparison.) This I can almost certianly attribute to the Light malt, next batch I will certianly use the Amber. 2) The Alcohol content (according to my two hygrommeter readings is about 6.5%) seems to be a major portion of the aroma and flavor. I want to almost say that this beer tastes 'cidery' but risk showing my inexperience in tasting homebrews by saying this. Whatever I call it, I want to get more towards a true English Bitter beer with my next batch (although I'm sure that I will have no trouble drinking the two cases that this batch made :-) Here are my questions for the experienced brewers out there: 1) Are my assumptions about Light vs. Amber malt correct? 2) Should I eliminate/reduce the spray malt to reduce the alcohol taste/content? and will this effect flavor considerably? 3) Could the Brown Shugar (Cane Based) be giving me the Cidery taste, and If so what would I substitute? Mollasses? How much? Or, better yet... 4) Does someone have a good recipe for an all extract English bitter? I have seen several Bitter kits at the local store. Which ones are recommended? Any suggestions are welcome. I think that this recipe deserves annother batch and I want to give it a fair shake. Many thanks in advance. =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | Pole-Vaulters Get a Natural High! Seabrook, NH +-------------------------------------------------- Internet: AEW at B30.PRIME.COM | These are my words only, drifting through time... =============================================================================== Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 91 14:23:42 EST From: Jay Hersh <hersh at expo.lcs.mit.edu> Subject: Sam Adams claims Keep in mind, that when Sam Adams was winning the "Best Beer in America" it was a poll of attendees at the GABF. They used tactics like having sexy women distribute cool stuff (hats, coasters, etc..). Also since their beer's name started with an A for Adams, they were next to the door, so everyone entering the GABF would inevitably start there, meaning that while you didn't get to taste every beer, you probably tasted Sam Adams. Well the uproar over this became deafening, so 2 years ago (think it was 2) the AHA finally eliminated the attendee poll and began a blind panel judging in a per style fashion according to AHA/HWBTA guidelines. Of course there's a pretty low category to beers present ratio, so it's still not such an incredible feat to win, but I believe Sam Adams Lager has only won one silver since the category judging began. This doesn't mean I don't like the stuff, but I do cringe at some of their ads. - JaH Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 91 11:48:20 PST From: mlevy at unssun.nevada.edu (Marcel Levy) Subject: planes&Corsendonk An answer to the question about the Corsendonk label: the last two lines are a kind of Flemish I haven't seen before. The first line seem like a dialect of French, and you're probably right about that one. The second line "Ambachtelyk Bier" doesn't refer to the abbey. I think "ambacht," the root word, means "avocation." At least, that's what I think it means in Dutch. So read it as "professional beer," or "beer made by artisans." Yes, the third line is talking about their yeast ("gist") but I don't know what "Levende" means. Wait. On second thought, that's "live." Duh. Yeah, that's live yeast in the bottle. Hope that helps. Planes, beer and bureaucrats: I've carried my beer on, checked it in and flown into Europe with it. I haven't had any problems (might be luck). I would suggest carry-on as being less risky, but then I only had one or two bottles in my backpack, and maybe the customs folks expect that sort of thing from students. My one experiment with checked baggage and beer suggests that either the cargo hold is pressurized, or that the bottles can stand it. But I would recommend carry-on, because baggage handlers are not known for their deft caress. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 91 14:25:45 EST From: "Dr. John" <JELJ at CORNELLA.cit.cornell.edu> Subject: Corona grain mills Greetings, Just because "we" only use Corona mills for crushing malt doesn't mean that there aren't other uses, and other sources for this handy little implement. I got mine at the food co-op in Moscow, Idaho, about three years ago. At the time I saved about $15 or $20 compared to the going prices from homebrew suppliers, Seems like this was, and probably still is, a rather high-markup item for them, but that doesn't mean that you have to pay it. Anyone who is contemplating buying a mill should look through the yellow pages, if your town doesn't have a food co-op perhaps it has a farm supply store, which might also carry the Corona, or a similar brand since these things are also useful for cracking the corn before you feed it to your chickens. Ooogy wawa, Dr. John Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #781, 12/13/91 ************************************* -------
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