HOMEBREW Digest #805 Mon 20 January 1992

Digest #804 Digest #806

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Homebrew Digest #804 (January 17, 1992) (Michael Mahler)
  Yeast is Yeast (MIKE LIGAS)
  Whither Rotokeg (Greg Neill)
  fluff (Carl West)
  Botulism (Greg Beary)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #804 (January 17, 1992) (Jeff Roberts)
  Re: esters (korz)
  Priming w/malt extract (korz)
  B-Brite longevity (Curt Freeman)
  Carboy-in-a-crate (JW Smith)
  Milk Crates & Carboy Draining (C.R. Saikley)
  Bottling vs. Kegging question (The Rider)
  Foghorn (George Fix)
  Random thoughts on carboy handles, grain mill rollers (Dan Feldman)
  CO2 volumes/temp/pressure chart for kegging. (key)
  Georgia needs support for Homebrew Bill (Ken Dobson MD)
  Ale Atlanta beer ratings (Robb Holmes)
  sterile aerator, fixong keg (Bill Crick)
  Plate Streaking (Mike Lelivelt)
  Multi-strain yeasts (Mike Lelivelt)
  Non-Alcoholic Homebrew (Jack Schmidling)
  Dioxins ("George R. Flentke")
  That Looney-Tune Noonan (Frank Tutzauer)
  Now that's a hot break (also agar,canning wort) (Frank Tutzauer)
  Historical Homebrew  ( part 3) (Robb Holmes)
  Using coriander (dbreiden)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 17 Jan 92 10:42:26 EST From: mm at lectroid.sw.stratus.com (Michael Mahler) Subject: Homebrew Digest #804 (January 17, 1992) About chlorinated water: Carbon filters are extremely effective at removing this. I find NO smell of cholorine at all from my tap. Alos, those of you using HOT tap water for brew and sparge might like to consider that in older water heaters there is considerable mineral buildup in the water heater which might be in your beer. However, this might be a "good" thing. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1992 10:43 EDT From: MIKE LIGAS <LIGAS at SSCvax.CIS.McMaster.CA> Subject: Yeast is Yeast There was a farmer who had a horse that had a very long mane. Every morning the farmer would go out and plow his fields and everything was fine until one day a flock of birds flew over and built a nest in the horse's mane. This was bad enough, however, the birds would tweet and tweet all morning so that the farmer could not get his plowing done! One day while the farmer was in town he ran into Gus, the local know-it-all. "Gus", the farmer said, "this flock of birds have built their nest in my horse's mane and all morning they tweet and tweet and I can't get my plowing done! What should I do?". "I've got the perfect solution", said Gus, "go home and put some yeast into the horse's mane and all your troubles will be over!". "Yeast!", the farmer exclaimed, "what good will that do?". "Just try it", said Gus! So the farmer went home and put some yeast into the horse's mane. Next morning the nest was gone, the birds were gone, and no more incessant tweeting! The farmer was overjoyed! The next time he was in town and ran into Gus, he asked Gus how did he know that putting yeast in my horse's mane would get rid of the birds, the nest, and the tweeting? Gus replied: "Yeast is yeast, and nest is nest, and never the mane shall tweet!". Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 92 16:25:22 GMT From: Greg Neill <ynecgan at cid.aes.doe.CA> Subject: Whither Rotokeg Full-Name: Greg Neill Does anyone have an address and fax number for Rotokeg in England? I tried the number I got with my keg documents several years ago, but it would appear that they have since moved or closed up shop. Thanks. - -- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Greg Neill, | "A fanatic is one who cannot change HNSX Supercomputers Inc. | his mind, nor the subject" ynecgan at cid.aes.doe.ca | -- Sir Winston Churchill - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 92 11:24:38 EST From: eisen at kopf.HQ.Ileaf.COM (Carl West) Subject: fluff Al Korz says: > If your carboy says Hinkley & Schmitt, you can bet it's not quartz... I like to work a bit larger than that, all my carboys are gallonz Carl Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 92 09:57:54 MST From: Greg Beary <gbeary at advtech.uswest.com> Subject: Botulism While laying awake last night, I started to worry. I have a batch of Montmellick (sp?) Stout in my secondary. My worry concerns the state of one of the cans I used to make it. I purchased one can roughly +year ago. A second can came my way via England, where my brother bought it for me in a British Home Brew shop. I had asked that he bring back a few bottle conditioned beers, so that I could "steal" their yeast. He unfortunately got the message confused. The woman in the store sold him "this great product that produced stout just like Guiness". He was rather disappointed when I told him it was the same brand I normally use (though in a different outer packaging). Anyway, I decided rather than use one can of extract and one can or bag of malt extract, I'd use two cans of extract (one US, one Brit). The problem was that when I went to open the US one (about 14 months sitting on my shelf) it was a bit swollen. The ends of the can bulged out. When I opened it, it gave off a bit of pressure, but smelled normal. I figured at the time, what the heck I'll be boiling it real well, it can't do any harm. So, I prepared as normal, racked onto the trub left from a Brown Ale (done with "stolen" Sierra Nevada yeast) and left it to ferment. I had chilled it very well, down to about 45F, and I wasn't suprised that it took a day to come to temp and get fermenting. Anyway, three weeks later everything looks to have gone normally. My real question is if anyone else has had problems with Extract cans swelling? Also, while laying awake, I thought that I remembered reading somewhere that Botulism is a toxin. That is, if you have a can with the big "B", you can boil the contents and kill the critters that manufacture "B", but that doesn't remove what they have already produced. Why this didn't occur to me when I was brewing, I have no idea. Perhaps I was working too hard at not worrying. Anyone have any insight on this issue? Thanks, Greg Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 92 09:28:56 PST From: Jeff.Roberts at Eng.Sun.COM (Jeff Roberts) Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #804 (January 17, 1992) Please remove me from this alias. Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 92 11:44 CST From: korz at ihlpl.att.com Subject: Re: esters Stever asks: > Sipping a bottle of my brew the other day, I noticed a hint of banana. >I wonder if somehow esters were formed. Being something of a novice, I don't >doubt that my lousy technique is at fault. Does anyone know which parameter(s) >the beer considered when deciding to ester or not to ester? Esters are produced by your yeast. There are primarily three factors that affect ester production: the strain of yeast, the fermentation temperature, and the pitching rate. Some yeasts are more likely than others to produce esters (try a bottle of St. Louis Gueze -- WOW! -- unfortunately it is filtered -- RATS!). Red Star Yeast is widely known to produce banana esters. Higher fermentation temperatures increase the production of esters and higher pitching rates increase ester production. In the Troubleshooting Issue of Zymurgy, David Logsdon also mentions that high-gravity beers generally have more esters, but I have not found this correlation in my beers. One other related piece of info, the Troubleshooting Guide notes that in time, esters tend to be converted to higher (fusel) alcohols and give the beer a solvent-like flavor. I have not noticed this in my beers. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 92 11:51 CST From: korz at ihlpl.att.com Subject: Priming w/malt extract Jack responds to Caitrin: >>How does one prime with malt? > >Boil about a cup in a little water and use just like sugar. > >According to a recent posting though, sugar won the taste test between malt >and sugar. Not exactly. Dextrose (corn sugar) is 100% fermentable but malt extract is only 75-80% fermentable (by weight). Therefore, if you are happy with your carbonation when using 3/4 cup dextrose, which weighs 4.5 oz, just weigh out 5.4 to 5.7 oz of dry malt extract, boil that and prime. Since each brand of malt extract has a different fermentable/unfermentable profile, you will have to experiment a little and adjust accordingly. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 92 13:17:06 EST From: Curt Freeman <curtf at hpwart.wal.hp.com> Subject: B-Brite longevity Full-Name: Curt Freeman On occasion, I have kept a quantity of B-Brite solution around and used it at a later date. Recently I was told that B-Brite solutions are not like Metabisulfite solutions; they should be used immediately and then discarded. However, the person who told me this was the same person who sells me it. Is B-Brite a free oxygen scavenger or something that loses effectiveness over time. I can verify that old B-Brite solutions remain effective cleaners, etc, but maybe they don't remain effective sterilants. On another issue: the swirling technique of aiding separation of trub from wort should result in something like: | | |* *| |** A **| |*** ***| |**** ****| |***** *****| |* B *** *** B *| |****************| ------------------ Brew pot So where is the high concentration of trub supposed to be, in A or B? "Trolling" around the pot with my siphon wand didn't provide an obvious answer. Guess I have to work on my swirling. - -- Curt Freeman | INTERNET curtf at hpwala.wal.hp.com Hewlett-Packard | FON: (617) 290-3406 FAX: (617) 890-5451 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 92 12:57 CST From: jws3 at engr.uark.edu (JW Smith) Subject: Carboy-in-a-crate tomm at pet.med.ge.com writes: > I have a plastic milk crate and it does work well. The carboy is a little smaller than the crate, so there is room to slid my fingers into the handles.[...] To be fair, carboy handles may be better when holding a full wet carboy sideways to dump out the sanitizing water. I can rest the carboy on the side of the laundry tub (still in the handy crate) when I empty it, so supporting it is no problem. > One idea that springs to mind here is to weave some rope around the carboy neck and down through the holes in the milk crate. Say, 3/16" sisal would keep even a full carboy steady in the crate when emptying. I would also use cutouts from an old tire to brace the carboy in the crate, so that it doesn't slide around. I will make one of these setups the next time I find a milk crate, as my carboy scares me every time I pick it up full. Thanks for the good idea, folks! | James W. Smith, University of Arkansas | jws3 at engr.uark.edu | | I'm so depressed. If I didn't have so much to do, I'd be a nihilist. | | Neither NASA nor the U of Ark. is responsible for what I say. Mea culpa. | Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 92 11:34:40 PST From: grumpy!cr at uunet.UU.NET (C.R. Saikley) Subject: Milk Crates & Carboy Draining From: tomm at pet.med.ge.com (Thomas Manteufel 5-4257) >Someone, I don't remember who, and it was a long time ago, posted the >suggestion to use a plastic milk crate to hold the carboy. I have a With two milk crates per carboy, you can set up a little stand that makes draining carboys a breeze and frees you up to do other things while they're draining. It works like this : Cut a diamond shaped hole in the bottom of one crate. Make the hole sufficiently large so that enough of the carboy's neck fits in to make it stable, but small enough that the entire carboy doesn't slip through. It should like something like this, but square instead of rectangular. ________ | /\ | | / \ | |/ \| |\ /| | \ / | | \/ | -------- Stack the cut crate on top of the uncut crate, bottoms down. You can then invert the carboy and place it inside the upper crate, where it will happily glug away until empty. The conservation conscious can place the stack inside a drum, and collect the water for later use. CR Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 92 19:52:53 GMT From: fetzerm at Sdsc.Edu (The Rider) Subject: Bottling vs. Kegging question From: "The Rider" <mfetzer at ucsd.edu> Date sent: 17-JAN-1992 19:44:57 CUT As many of you know, it takes a while for beer to carbonate in bottles. After about a week or so, there's enough CO2 to make it drinkable, but the taste is just not quite right yet. I have personally found that our beers are at their peek 6 weeks or more after bottling, and some that were unaccptable after 2 weeks were great after 6. These are mostly india pale ales I'm talking about, usually partial mashes. Enter a friend with a story of Hales brewery, in Kirkland WA. They brew in large vats, that are completely open to the air. They rely soley on CO2 to keep nasties out of their beer. To do that, you have to of course pitch a large amount of yeast. So, after a batch has fermented 3 or 4 days (I forget which, seems like it was 3!) they skim the floating yeast off the top, pitch it into a new batch of beer and off it goes. Now, they immediately cold filter the first batch, and keg it! It goes out to breweries on a truck the same day, and is drunk within a week. Excellent beer. So my friend decides to try the kegging at home, and he claims it works. He does a two stage ferment, still, but then he keggs and can drink it immediatly. No weird taste that takes 6 weeks to go away. What gives? Is it the conditioning in the bottle? The yeast thats suspended in the process? Why does everyone say beer needs to age several weeks? Take care, Mike ................................................................................ Michael Fetzer Internet: MFETZER at UCSD.EDU UUCP: ...!ucsd!mfetzer BITnet: MFETZER at UCSD (use FETZERM at SDSC for BITnet SEND) HEPnet/SPAN: SDSC::FETZERM or 27.1::FETZERM Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 92 13:41:49 CST From: gjfix at utamat.uta.edu (George J Fix) Subject: Foghorn (George Fix) Chris Sheldon mentions tasting a tart Foghorn on draft, and asks about the origin of this flavor. This is not a normal characteristic of this beer, and is likely due to an infection (possibly lactos). Given Anchor's standards and rigorous microbiological tests, it is likely that the infection was picked up in the beer lines of the establishment where the beer was served. This does not happen that often, but it unfortunately does sometimes. This type of flavor defect is totally different from the ones I described in an earlier post. The latter where found in bottled beer, purchased and consumed thousands of miles from the brewery. I believe (perhaps incorrectly) that they are due to indirect oxidation originating in the brewhouse procedures used by Anchor. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 92 12:28 PST From: Dan Feldman <Feldman at GODZILLA.SCH.Symbolics.COM> Subject: Random thoughts on carboy handles, grain mill rollers Date: Thu, 16 Jan 92 08:01:08 CST From: tomm at pet.med.ge.com (Thomas Manteufel 5-4257) All this talk of knurling and scoring grain mill rollers to grab the grain has me wondering: Why not coat the rollers with some sort of rubber, like a stick-on sheet, or hot dipping, to grip the grain. If the rubber is thin enough, or hard enough, the grain should get crushed just fine. Has anyone ever done this? Or is a silly idea for some reason I haven't thought of? It is much more cost effective to knurl or score the rollers. Rubber compounds hard enough to do the job are expensive, difficult to apply, and expensive to apply. I would hate to try to apply sheet stock to any roller; cutting the length would be very difficult at its easiest. Dan Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 92 15:36:01 EST From: key at cs.utk.edu Subject: CO2 volumes/temp/pressure chart for kegging. Folks were curious about the chart I got for finding the pressure to use to artifically carbonate beer. I entered it in and it can be anon. FTP'ed from cs.utk.edu in the /pub/key/ directory as co2-chart. The chart is approx. 154 char wide by 44 lines long of text. It was printed from the program co2-volume.c that's also in the directory. It has the original data so you can modify it's printing to get a different layout. Please let me know if you catch typos, the relationships are fairly linear. Ken Key (key at cs.utk.edu) Univ. of Tennessee, Knoxville - CS Dept. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1992 19:05 EST From: Ken Dobson MD <MEDKGD%EMUVM1.bitnet at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU> Subject: Georgia needs support for Homebrew Bill Georgia needs the help of homebrewers everywhere!!! Georgia is one of the three states in which homebrewing is still illegal. However, due to the efforts of the Atlanta homebrewing club, the Covert Hops Society, a legalization bill has passed the House and is now about to be considered by the Senate Consumer Affairs Committee. We ask that homebrewers ***everywhere*** write the committee Chairman and recommend that his com- mittee support passage of ***HB-62***. His address is: Senator Arthur Langford, Jr. Chairman, Senate Consumer Affairs Committee 320 LOB Atlanta, GA 30334 (404) 656-0049. Thank you for your support. Ken Dobson, M.D Propagandist Covert Hops Society Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 92 19:21:32 EST From: Robb Holmes <RHOLMES at uga.cc.uga.edu> Subject: Ale Atlanta beer ratings The Atlanta Journal-Constitution, in its Thursday, January 16, 1992 edition, published an article (in the food section) on beer ratings by a local club called Ale Atlanta. The article says the club has about 30 members, with about 20 attending most tasting sessions. According to the article, 101 beers were considered, divided into 12 categories. In each category a winner and runner-up was selected, or two runners-up if the 2nd and 3rd place finishers were separated by only one point. Here are their ratings. I won't reproduce the comments that accompanied all the first-place winners, but will provide them on request. Amber: Wild Boar, John Courage Amber Ale: Pete's Wicked Ale, Whitbread Import Pilsner: Tsingtao, Pacifico Clara Import Dark: Spaten Dark, Augusteiner Maximator, San Miguel Dark Wheat: Paulaner, Hacker-Pschorr Dry: Pete's Pacific, Iron City Light (low calorie): Watney's London, Iron Ciry Specialty: Samuel Adams Cranberry Lambic, Lindeman's Framboise, Lindeman's Kriek Non-alcoholic: Coors Cutter, Kalibur Special Ale: Young's Special London, Young's Ram Rod Stout & Porter: Mackeson, Sam Smith's Imperial Domestic Pilsner: Samuel Adams Boston Lager, Cold Spring Export More than an entire page of newsprint was devoted to beer-related items (getting ready for the superbowl), but there was only one mention of homebrewing. One of the homebrewers, it was said, "knew what to look for -- or smell for. /He/ is a home brewer who experiments with his own recipes." - ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Robb Holmes | WUGA, the Classic 91.7 FM bitnet: rholmes at uga | Georgia Center for Continuing Ed. internet: rholmes at uga.cc.uga.edu | The University of Georgia - --------------------------Is this thing on?---------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1992 10:58:59 -0500 From: hpfcmr.fc.hp.com!hplabs!uunet!bnr-vpa!bnr-rsc!crick (Bill Crick) Subject: sterile aerator, fixong keg Regarding the aquarium pump to aereate wort. A local company sells a "beer machine", whoss main claim to fame is that they aereate the wort, which causes endless wonderful things to happen blah blah blah......... Their aerator is an aquarium pump. They use a little 1" diameter filter holder (which is also very extra special........... Looks like typical lab supply stuff), which holds an extra special blah blah blah ......... filter disk which I suspect is a standard 1um, or 1/2um filter paper. This filters out the nasty biological stuff from the air. You should be able to get a filter holder, and filter papers from any good lab supply, or medical lab supply house. Check your yellow pages, or call your local hospital lab, and ask them where yo might be able to get some. Rergarding patching your plastic keg? Depends what it is made from. If polyethylene, which is likely, it can be thermally welded (melted). If it is ABS, or polyvinyl cloride (unlikely for a pressure vessel as they are too brittle) then solvent based repairs are possible. How to get it fixed? One possibilty is locate someone who fixes sailboards, which are commonly made from these materials. Contact local sailboard shops, they may be able to point you to help. Chance of success is pretty good. Note: Don't mention that it is a pressure vessel!!! IF you do, then the guy will likely refuse to fix it if he has half a brain due to possible liability (ain't 'Merica Wunnerful?)problems. Also note that Windsurfer brand boards are polyethene which is what I believe both my plastic kegs are/were made from. Bill Crick Brewius, Ergo Sailing! Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 92 09:58:20 EST From: Mike Lelivelt <UTB at CORNELLA.cit.cornell.edu> Subject: Plate Streaking How to steak a yeast sample to isolate single colonies This needs to be done on a petri plate, thus the reason why most homebrewers don't bother with it. Should you have access to them, make the usual malt extract culture media and add 1.5 or 2.0 grams of agar per 100 ml of culture media. Of course, autoclave the media and plates. Pour the plates. Allow to cool and solidify. Now, in your mind divide the plate into thirds like a pie. Get your inoculating loop and flame it. Allow it to cool and dip into your favorite yeast sample. Run the inoculated loop in a zig zag manner over one third of the plate. Flame the loop again. _DO_NOT_ reinoculate it, that means don't put it back into your yeast sample. Instead streak the second third of the plate by running the cooled loop through one or two streaks made in the first third. Flame the loop and do the same to the final third by picking up cells from the second third. Your goal is to streak out fewer and fewer cells each time. Now when these cells begin to grow, the streak in the final third will only have cells growing every so often rather than a smear of cells as in the first and second thirds. Now you have a colony of cells produced from a single cell all with exactly similar genetic properties. A good source to consult on the above procedure is any laboratory manual to microbiology, which you can find in any academic library, or write me. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 92 10:08:21 EST From: Mike Lelivelt <UTB at CORNELLA.cit.cornell.edu> Subject: Multi-strain yeasts According to Fix's article on Wild Yeast in Zymurgy's Yeast Issue, Whitbread culture ( 1098) consists on three strains of yeast. In the same issue Burch in "Yeast and Beer Styles" says 3056 is composed of two strains. Does anyone know of other Wyeast cultures being multi-strain in nature? I ask because these strains are incompatable with the isolation techniques presented above. A friend (Hi Veg) isolated both species of the 3056 culture due to differences in colony morphology. This techniques cannot be applied to 1098 culture as all three are Saccaromyces cerevisiae derivatives and possess similar colony morphology. Please don't tell me to run protein gels, I'm already anal enough. My current solution is just not to attempt to isolate. Come on big brains, any answers? Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 92 08:06 CST From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: Non-Alcoholic Homebrew To: Homebrew Digest Fm: Jack Schmidling NA HOMEBREW Everytime I mention NA beer, people give me funny looks and ask questions like, "why would anyone want to do that to homebrew?" Having been a victim of my hobby some years ago, I drank nothing but Kingsbury for almost 10 years. The thought of going back to that is all the motivation I need. I have been limiting myself to one 16 oz glass of beer, per day for a couple of years and I no longer consider myself a recovering alcoholic. However, making beer is so much fun and hombrew tastes so good that rather then cheat, I have been experimenting with making NA homebrew. Y'all will no doubt remember when I started asking questions about measuring alcohol in beer. That was about the time I started. I have made six batches and think the process works well enough to publish. So far, I have only produced one gallon batches but I have 7 gals clearing now, that will be my first full scale batch, five gallons of which will be kegged for NA on draft. Here is the process...... ................ When you have your next batch ready to bottle, syphon off one gallon before priming. Put this in a kettle with (2) tablespoons of sugar and bring the temp up to 170 F with the lid off. Let it cool, uncovered until the temp gets below 150 F. Then cover it and cool it to room temp as quickly as possible. I put it in a sink with running water. When room temp, add 1/8 tsp Champaign yeast. I have been using Red Star. Let it sit for a while to disolve and disperse, then stir well with a sanitized spoon. Pour the brew into your favorite bottles and cap. I always include at least one plastic bottle to monitor cabonation. When the plastic bottle is hard, refrigerate them all. This usually takes no more than a few days at room temp. I have no idea how long this stuff will keep in or out of the fridge but time will tell. What does it taste like? You'll have to try it yourself to find out. Just for drill, I took an early version down to a Chicago Beer Club meeting and had it judged blind. I then gave them a bottle of the beer it was made from as a comparison. What did the judges have to say: In general, "lousy beer" but they could not tell the difference between the original and the NA nor had they the slightest clue, that one had no alcohol. Unfortunately, that batch was the one I have previously described as clovey (they said bananas) and you can't make bad beer, good by taking out the alcohol. I was toying with the idea of sending NA as my entry in the Usenet Brewoff Challenge just for fun but decided that it was too much trouble for a practical joke. js P.S. Had two bottles with pizza last night and noted the clovey taste again. They were from two different batches. As the original beer does not exhibit this bonus, I attribute it to the Red Star champaign yeast. I think it is now safe to roundly condemn ALL Red Star yeast. On the next batch I will re-inocculate with EDME which is what I am using in the original fermentation. jss Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 92 16:42 CST From: "George R. Flentke" <GRFLENTK at macc.wisc.edu> Subject: Dioxins In homebrew, you potentially have the ingredients for dioxin when mixed with chlorinated water. Any lignins present can serve as the source for the phenolic portion. These can react the the halomethanes to give dioxin compounds. Whether there is enough heat to do the job, I'm not to sure about. George R. Flentke Dept. of Pharmacy; UW-Madison Internet: grflentk at macc.wisc.edu Bitnet: grflentk at wiscmacc Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 1992 22:41 EST From: Frank Tutzauer <COMFRANK at ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu> Subject: That Looney-Tune Noonan Well, I've finally finished reading Noonan. Wow. Lots more biochem than I expected. Also, his writing style is terse and what I can only describe as "dogmatic"--but still, there's lots of good stuff in the book. I do have one question, however. At several points, he says that beer samples should be "black." For example, on p. 200, he talks about post-kraeusen beer, and says, "Remove a sample glassful, agitate it, and examine it. The beer at this point should be clear, bright, and black." What does he mean, black beer? Maybe if your brewing a stout or something, but I think he means it in a different sense here. Anybody know what he's talking about? I'm sure clue-free. - --frank Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 1992 22:42 EST From: Frank Tutzauer <COMFRANK at ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu> Subject: Now that's a hot break (also agar,canning wort) I've finally gotten around to canning some wort, basically following the procedure outlined by Rog Leistad in Yeast Culturing for the Homebrewer (G.W. Kent, 1983). When I brought the jars out of the pressure cooker, there was the most tremendous hot break I had ever seen--like an inch of crud at the bottom of the jars. I'm assuming that this is normal and that I should decant off of the break before using. If not, let me know. Also, about this agar stuff. In most Chinese grocery stores, they sell a product called agar, or sometimes agar-agar. It's some kind of seaweed something or other that comes dried in long, thin, white, almost colorless strips. When you rehydrate it, it turns gelatinous and is used in salads, aspics, jellies, and stuff like that. It tastes pretty flavorless. I also understand that you can get agar powder that works similarly, but I've never used it, so I can't describe it like the other stuff, which I have used. Well anyway: Is this the same thing as the agar in all the yeast culturing literature? Can I use it, or do I need some fancy schmancy biochemical-rated USP UL super-special agar? The Chinese agar is food quality (you eat it afterall), and Leistad processes at 15 psi for 15 minutes anyway. And I'm sure it's a darn sight cheaper than getting it from a lab supply house. So, whaddya think? - --frank Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 92 10:34:23 EST From: Robb Holmes <RHOLMES at uga.cc.uga.edu> Subject: Historical Homebrew ( part 3) This is the third and final installment of traditional "Prohibition Pilsner" recipes received anonymously, presumably from the makers of Blue Ribbon malt syrup, in the mid-1970's. Previous installments of Historical Homebrew appeared in Homebrew Digest # 795 and # 800. This is posted here purely for historical interest, and not as a recommended recipe, although the techniques called for here seem to be much closer to currently recommended procedures for beginning brewers, than in the earlier historical postings. The format of the original is retained as much as possible. If anyone is interested in having the original copy of these recipes for a collection of beer memorabilia, please contact me by E-mail. - ------------------ FOR 5 GALLONS -- One can hop flavored malt syrup -- 3/4 pound granulated sugar -- one cake compressed* yeast. Dissolve syrup and sugar in boiling hot water -- pour into cold water to make five gallons -- allow to further cool for two hours, then add one cake yeast. Cover crock or other fermenting vessel with clean cloth. Keep in a cool, dark place. Watch carefully and when bubbles of gas cease coming to surface fermentation has been completed and liquor should be quite clear (approximately four days). Now siphon off clear liquid to another clean crock, leaving the thick sediment behind. To the liquor in the second crock add 1/4 pound granulated sugar and stir until dissolved. Fill into bottle by siphoning or pouring. Cap and immediately store in a cool dark place. The beverage will be ready for use when clear -- requires one to two weeks. One crock can be eliminated if the liquid is siphoned directly into the bottles from the fermented crock. In this case, place 1/2 teaspoon sugar in each pint or one teaspoon in each quart bottle. Best consistent results can be obtained if a five gallon bottle is used instead of a crock for the fermenting vessel, using a water seal. All vessels and tubing should be entirely clear and sanitary before use. A 2-3% warm lye solution is an excellent one for the purpose. Rinse with water after the use of lye solution. Use of Hydrometer is not necessary if the above directions are followed. The specific gravity at the time of bottling will however, be 1.012 - 1.016. *or Dehydrated Vierka Lager Yeast. - -----------------------end------------------- - ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Robb Holmes | WUGA, the Classic 91.7 FM bitnet: rholmes at uga | Georgia Center for Continuing Ed. internet: rholmes at uga.cc.uga.edu | The University of Georgia - --------------------------Is this thing on?---------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 92 13:06:34 -0500 From: dbreiden at mentor.cc.purdue.edu Subject: Using coriander For all of you folks out there who have brewed using coriander, I have two quick questions: 1. How concerned should I be about freshness of the seed? I have some coriander seed that is about 2-3 yrs old. Any guesses as to whether it's fit to use? 2. Should I use the seed whole, or should I crush it a little? Seems like in brewing I've gotten accustomed to crushing everything to get the yummies free. I suppose I'm really asking if anyone can imagine any ill effect of crushing. Thanks, -Danny Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #805, 01/20/92