HOMEBREW Digest #903 Tue 16 June 1992

Digest #902 Digest #904

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  RE: Homebrew Digest #902 (June 15, 1992) (tim)
  $Agar? (Nick Zentena)
  sediment in wine (envkas)
  subscription (lindel holden)
  Conference + Re: Technique/HighKrauesen/Dryhopping/MOREBEER (korz)
  Bitter Commercial Brews (doug)
  re: bitter beer (Dick Dunn)
  Box 'o beer (James Hensley)
  Yeast Growth, AHA Conference (Jack Schmidling)
  Gravity of Starter Cultures (Jon Binkley)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1992 10:11:38 EDT From: tim at mtnet2.wvnet.edu Subject: RE: Homebrew Digest #902 (June 15, 1992) I am going to be spending a couple of weeks in Alaska around the end of June, and am looking for any information on brew pubs in the land of the midnight sun. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1992 10:59:40 -0400 From: Nick Zentena <zen%hophead at canrem.com> Subject: $Agar? Hi, Does anybody know of anyplace that sells agar at reasonable prices? A local place wants almost $100 for one[1!] pound of Malt extract Agar. They also want $50 for a pound of DME.[This isn't a homebrew place put a chemical supply house] If this doesn't pan out has anybody in Canada ordered from the Brewers Resource? How long did it take to clear customs? Thanks Nick I drink Beer I don't collect cute bottles! zen%hophead at canrem.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 92 11:33:16 EDT From: envkas at sn634.utica.ge.com Subject: sediment in wine To any of you wine makers out there: After learing how easy and fun it is to make beer, my wife said "now if you could only make wine too...". This past summer I fermented 10 g of grape juice following directions from friends, books, and tips from a "quick" wine kit. Everything went smoothly. I bottled the white wine in December so that I could use my caraboys again for some beer. The wine seemed clear, so I did not use any finnings before botteling. Now I have sediment on the corks (bottles stored upside down) so when the wine is poured into glasses, the otherwise clear wine is degraded (at least visually, maybe in taste). The wine tastes great straight out of the bottle, but we want to serve it to friends and would like to have it clear. My question is what should I do with about 40 bottles of wine that all have some sediment on the corks? I tried filtering some thru coffee filters which removed the particles, but the wine seemed to oxidize badly. Any ideas??? Thanks in advance! Karl Sweitzer envkas at sn370.ge.utica.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 92 11:56:03 EDT From: lindel holden <lholden at s850.mwc.edu> Subject: subscription SUB Homebrew Lindel E. Holden Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 92 12:13 CDT From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Conference + Re: Technique/HighKrauesen/Dryhopping/MOREBEER Having just returned from the AHA National Conference, I'd like to comment on a number of posts received while I was away. By the way, I strongly urge everyone to try to attend the next Conference which will be held in Portland, OR, next summer. Not only are there *barrels* of information to be gained from the sessions (my favorites were the session on Yeast by George Fix and the session on Brewing Lambics by Martin Lodahl and Mike Sharp), but you also get to taste *hundreds* of homebrewed beers while standing shoulder-to-shoulder with such brewing luminaries as Charlie Papazian, George Fix, Dave Miller, Byron Burch, and Fred Eckhardt. >From the matching faces with logins file: everyone is much younger in person than they seem on the net. Given the amount of knowledge that HBD members have, you would expect them to look like old, grey-haired brewmasters. Not so. In addition, homebrewers are the friendliest people in the world. Period. If you steped up to a homebrewer at the conference who was pouring a vintage 1967 Thomas Hardy's Ale, and they noticed your glass was empty, they would pour you some... nevermind that they haven't even had a chance to read your nametag. Chris writes: > First, this is what I now do: the day or more before >brewing I start Wyeast and eventually make a 750 ml starter with >light dry malt extract (or sometimes I repitch from the secondary >and avoid the starter) and I also boil 1.5 to 2.0 gallons of cold >tap water (it's quite soft in Philadelphia) and then freeze in a >block; on the brewing day I bring about 4.5 gallons of water to >around 170x F., turn off the heat, add 6.6 lbs. NW malt extract >syrup, stir to dissolve, start heating again and bring to a boil, >add hops at one or more times, and boil for 60 to 90 minutes or >until volume falls to about 3.5 gallons, cool from 212x F. to >about 170x F. by putting the pot in a sink of cold water and then >cool to yeast pitching temperature by adding the 1.5 to 2.0 >gallon block of ice, pitch yeast into the pot and let stand one >to two hours, rack wort off of the settled trub into a carboy or >plastic fermenter while waving the siphon hose to aerate the >wort, fit a fermentation lock, ferment two to three days until >kreusen falls and then rack to a carboy for a one to three week >secondary fermentation, rack to a plastic fermenter with priming >sugar (preboiled corn sugar), and then bottle. Sometimes I bring >crystal malt or other specialty grains to 170x F. in the brewing >pot and then skim it out before adding the malt extract syrup. >Sometimes I treat my brewing water after the boil with Burton >water salts (for pale ales) and sometimes I add .5 tsp. of Irish >Moss at the end of the boil. > So far, you have excellent technique. > Among the things I have considered doing to improve this >technique are: (i) use an immersion wort chiller so that I could >do a full boil instead of using the block of ice (this will help >when I get ready for all grain, too), Yes. I think this should be your first improvement. Note that when you increase your boil volume to the full 5 to 6 gallons, you will get better hop utilization due to the lower boil gravity, so be careful. See the article by Jackie Rager (who I got to meet and with whom I shared a Blueberry Porter provided by one of the New York area homebrew clubs) in the Hops Special Issue of Zymurgy to see what kind of change you can expect from your full boil. >(ii) use a bottle of oxygen to aerate the wort before pitching, I would call this overkill. Good aeration is enough. (Ironically,) Alberta Rager will have an article in the Conference Transcripts on aeration -- she suggests using a bubbler stone, an aquarium pump and a 2micron inline filter for aeration, but I would leave this improvement for later. >(iii) use a 7 gallon carboy >instead of a plastic fermenter for primary fermentation (where >can one get a 7 gallon carboy?), Even a 5 gallon carboy will help you keep things more sanitary than plastic, but as noted by Darryl Richman recently, he's been using an HDPE fermenter for years and has brewed prize-winning beers with it. >(iv) use kegs of some sort >rather than bottles (this would make life easier, I think, but >shouldn't improve the beer) and >(v) use a larger volume of starter, say one liter. The difference between 750ml and 1 liter is minor. Personally, I think that 750ml is enough if you pitch when the starter is most active. Additional improvements: - try adding specialy grains, like Crystal, Chocolate, Black Patent (I simply crush them, put them in a grain bag, and suspend the bag in the water as I bring it to 170F, then remove the grains.) The grains will give your beer a more malty flavor and aroma than just simply using extract. - try some different malt extracts. I've found that Northwestern Extract seems to give a high terminal gravity. Other extracts give slightly different flavors too. - Dryhop. Try 1 oz of Willamette or Goldings or Fuggles in the secondary (the last 10 days before bottling). Try Liberty Ale of Young's Special London Ale to see what dryhopping can do for beer bouquet. John writes: >Whenever I use Wyeast, I prepare a 12oz starter. Timing when to pitch a >starter has always been a mystery to me. The general recommendation is >to pitch at high krauesen. The trouble is determining when high krauesen >occurs. With my starters, I am lucky to get 1/8 inch of foam on top, and >that is a best case! What sort of krauesen do you get, and at what point >do you pitch the starter? I think it may have to do with the low gravity of starters (I use 1018), but high-krauesen is really, at best, 1/8 inch, sometimes none at all. I know I wrote "high krauesen" in a hurry and I really hadn't thought-out my post properly or explained myself thoroughly. Usually, I just time the bubbles and scale down from a 5 gallon batch -- 1 bubble per 80 seconds in a 16 ounce starter is (for practical purposes) 1 bubble per 2 seconds in a 5 gallon batch. I consider anything aproaching 1 bubble per 2 minutes to be "high krauesen" in a 16-32 ounce starter. Sean writes: >I'm bitting the dry-hop bullet. Sign me up, i want that awesome dry-hopped >aroma. I ordered the ingredients for my latest batch and ordered a package >of Hersbrucker compressed hop plugs. I brewed up my batch last night as >follows: > > 6lb Laaglander extra-pale DME > 1lb corn sugar > .5oz fuggles pellets a=4.0 (begging of boil) > .5oz Willemette leaf a=4.2 ( at 20 minutes) > .5oz " " " ( at 40 minutes) > #1056 - American Ale > > OG = 1.060 > >The boil was a full 6 gallons (in my shiny new 10gal ss brewkettle! ;-), >yeilding 5 gallons after the boil. It's merrily fermenting away in the >primary now. I feel that you have underhopped. 1/2 oz of 4.0% Fuggles is quite low for a 5 gallon batch of 1060 Ale. I would have used 1.5 ounces. >So how much of the Hersbrucker (a = 2.6) do i throw in the secondary? Is >there some rule-of-thumb for amount of malt (SG?), amount of bittering hops, >and amount and/or alpha of the dryhop being used? Or is it as simple as >just throw in 1oz at transfer to secondary? I suggest 1 ounce for the last 10 days in the secondary. At first, the dry hop bouquet may be overpowering (if that's possible, but I'm a hophead) at first but will mellow out in a week or two. Note: I heard at the conference, that Smartcaps(tm) will make your hop bouquet last much longer. If this is true, then you may want to try Smartcaps and use 1/2 ounce of Hersbrucker. > 1992 AHA NATIONAL AWARDS AND CONFERENCE TRANSCRIPT <stuff deleted> > Now they are chanting, MORE BEER! MORE BEER! MORE BEER! <stuff deleted> Sounded like "FREE BEER! FREE BEER! FREE BEER!" to me. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: 15 Jun 92 14:12 EST From: doug at metabolism.bitstream.com Subject: Bitter Commercial Brews Nils/John: Last year at the WBUR "Brewers Offering" my brew partner and I compared side by side the two beers we considered the hoppiest in the neighborhood. My palate my have been a little impaired but we found Geary's Pale to be the second in bitterness to Post Road. I would imagine that you can get it in Maine... it's brewed for the Marlborough Brewing Company by our friends in White River Junction. \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ Doug Connolly Bitstream, Inc. (617) 497-6222 uunet!huxley!doug 215 First St. X618 doug at bitstream.com Cambridge, MA 02142 /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ Return to table of contents
Date: 15 Jun 92 18:54:19 MDT (Mon) From: rcd at raven.eklektix.com (Dick Dunn) Subject: re: bitter beer jeb at hemlock.cray.com (John Bergquist) suggests: > I haven't had the pleasure of trying Geary's, but the hoppiest domestic > beers I've tasted are from Grant's in Yakima, WA. I think I read a claim > that their Imperial Stout is the hoppiest beer in America... Perhaps surprisingly, Grant actually reduced the hops in his beers just a bit from the early days. Bert Grant worked in the hops trade (I don't recall just what he did) before he started brewing commercially. The man *really* likes hops. I still remember the first time he brought his beer to the Great American Beer Festival--the India Pale Ale (which is supposed to be a hoppy style anyway) was overwhelming. It *was* good, though. I wonder if Sierra Nevada's Celebration Ale was counted in that "hoppiest beer in America" comparison. (Maybe not, because it's seasonal.) It's certainly been one of the hoppiest beers I've had over the years. > ...Samuel Adams Boston Lager, which is as hoppy as > anything you're likely to find in general distribution. It's hard to draw the line for "general distribution" though. The growth in the numbers of people who like substantial beer has been enough that Anchor and Sierra Nevada are almost common...and they're quite a step up from SA in hops content. --- Dick Dunn rcd at raven.eklektix.com -or- raven!rcd Boulder, Colorado ...The way to meet an impossible circumstance is with voluntary craziness. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 92 18:18:08 PDT From: James Hensley <jpaul at barge.sd.locus.com> Subject: Box 'o beer My friend went to the PB brewhouse here in San Diego, and saw several boxes haning from the ceiling. He asked what they were, and was told they are take-home gallons of beer! He brought me one (nice guy -- cost $16.00 !! Anyway, I had never heard of this before and was wondering if anyone else has seen this sort of thing. It was quite good. Cardboard box with 1-gallon plastic container inside, came along with a plastic tap that you replace the lid with. Cool packaging! James - -- jpaul at locus.com | ..ucsd!lccsd!jpaul : all views expressed are mine. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 92 23:09 CDT From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: Yeast Growth, AHA Conference To: Homebrew Digest Fm: Jack Schmidling >From: "John Cotterill" <johnc at hprpcd.rose.hp.com> Subject: Yeast Growth, Krauesen > Does anyone out there get a good head in a 12oz starter. Not worrying, just curious (and feeling a bit insecure). Not sure what you are starting in what but..... After 24 hours, I get a ring of bubbles around a half inch of wort in a slant tube. This gets poured into 50 ml wort and 24 hours later will foam when agitated. This gets poured into 200 ml wort which will foam up just like fermenting beer within 24 hours. If I have the time and motivation, this I pitch into 500 ml wort and it foams away in 24 hours. I guess the bottom line is, it takes four days to do it right. .............. I would like to express my good will and warm feelings to all the great people I met at the AHA conference in Milwaukee last week. I even extend that to the HBD celebrity who refused to shake my hand or taste the "World's Greatest Beer". After composing my flaming expose' of the twit I decided to give it one more try and flatter myself in thinking that I must still be the world's greatest salesman. Finally, with great condecension, he tasted the "World's Greatest Beer" and couldn't find anything wrong with it. js Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 92 23:29:33 -0600 From: Jon Binkley <binkley at beagle.Colorado.EDU> Subject: Gravity of Starter Cultures Why is a relatively low gravity (1.020) recommended for yeast starter cultures? The last few batches my friend and I made were from higher gravities (~1.040-50), first by accident and then on purpose. The cultures seemed very happy, and the lag time after pitching seemed shorter (very subjective observations). Is there any problem with this, other than using more malt extract than is absolutely necessary? Jon Binkley Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #903, 06/16/92