HOMEBREW Digest #956 Thu 27 August 1992

Digest #955 Digest #957

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Coors and "Rocky Mountain" Spring Water (919) 541-7340" <FP$JEFF at RCC.RTI.ORG>
  Questions answered. ("C. Lyons")
  Re: Beer Concentrate (Daniel Roman)
  Clean siphoning (Ed Hitchcock)
  Brewin' In Chicago (craigman)
  Catalogs ("Richard Moreaux" )
  Re: Brewing Disaster (Norm Pyle)
  re: where is Bayreuth (mcnally)
  Scottish Ale Recipe Wanted (Mike Gauland)
  Siphon Starting ("Rad Equipment")
  Jeff's Geography Lesson (Richard Stueven)
  RE: Siphons (Roy Styan)
  Woodruff (Alan Mayman)
  lallemand windsor ale yeast--a data point (Tony Babinec)
  Wanted: Brewpub listing for San Fran. (Christopher Butler)
  Metal Taste and Mashing Questions (Thomas D. Feller)
  Vinometers & Beer Making (wegeng.henr801c)
  Bubbles while siphoning / Labelling bottles  (J.N.) Avery" <javery at x400gate.bnr.ca>
  Bringing beer back from Europe (Phillip Seitz)
  RE: Hop questions (Paul dArmond)
  Altbier/Oktoberfest Recipe ("Jim Ellingson")
  need yeast (Roy Rudebusch)
  Siphon starters (Kinney Baughman)
  Re: BEER CONCENTRATE (Bob Devine  25-Aug-1992 1642)
  Re: Digest reader/extractor for Unix? (Chuck Cox)
  Cajun Cooker/Dry Hopping/Marga Mulino/Siphon/Coors (Darren Evans-Young)
  diluting boiled wort (Brett Shorten)
  Re:  Digest reader/extractor for Unix? (whg)
  liquid yeast (Mark R. Garti)
  Commercialism on the Network ? (919) 541-7340" <FP$JEFF at RCC.RTI.ORG>

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: 25 Aug 1992 09:10:23 -0400 (EDT) From: "Jeff McCartney (919) 541-7340" <FP$JEFF at RCC.RTI.ORG> Subject: Coors and "Rocky Mountain" Spring Water >>From: Arthur Delano <ajd at itl.itd.umich.edu> >>Subject: Re: BEER CONCENTRATE >> >>Jack writes: >>] It seems that >>] Coors is claiming to use Rocky Mountain Spring Water in the beer that they >>] are "brewing" in Virginia >> >>They may be hewing the the letter, if not spirit, of their claims. If >>Coors prepares a heavy wort in Colorado and then ships it to Virginia, >>the beer will, in fact, have some water from the Rocky Mountains in it, >>albeit not much -- more of a homeopathic dose. >> >>] It is interesting to speculate just what "beer concentrate" might be. >> >>My uneducated speculation is that they prepare a heavy wort, ready for >>fermentation, in CO and ship it to VA to dilute, ferment, and bottle. >>If i were covering the story and had the time to do so, i would take a >>tour of the Virginia plant to see what is done there. >> >>------------------------------ I attended Bridgewater College which is about a half hour from the Coors Virginia Plant. I drove by it's location many times prior to it's opening. When Coors purchased the land (located conveniently to RR lines), they also purchased a mountain. The name of that mountain was "Rocky Mountain". I'm fairly certain this wasn't hearsay. There were articles published in the Harrisonburg paper with this news, but I personally never verified it. Thus, the intention was that initially beer would be shipped to VA and then bottled with the long term plan being to brew in VA. And because of the "Rocky Mountain" in VA providing very good spring water, there'd be no problem with labeling. Any of you guys from BackDoor Brewers in Charlottesville have anything to add to this posting? Jeff McCartney Durham, NC INTERNET::"JEFF at ZEUS.RTI.ORG" Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 08:49 EDT From: "C. Lyons" <LYONS at adc1.adc.ray.com> Subject: Questions answered. Several people answered my questions on adding ice to cool the wort to yeast pitching temperature and the use of 170F water for sparging. Thank you all! The concern with using ice is that of sanitation. It appears that the freezer is a happy haven for free-loving bacteria. Transferring ice from the freezer to the cooling wort can be a means of introducing nasties. Suggestions were made to avoid tray ice, boil water and freeze in a sanitized closed milk container, cool wort by placing brew pot or primary in an ice bath, or use a wort chiller. As for the use of 170F water for sparging. The general consensus is that the purpose of the sparge is to remove remaining sugars from the grains. To do this the water should be as warm/hot as possible without extracting tannins from the grain. Cold water will not dissolve the sugars to the extent of warm water, and boiling water will result in obtaining a harsh (astringent) beer flavor. Thanks for all your comments! Since I am always looking for short cuts, it helps to have an understanding of the techniques. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 9:12:28 EDT From: roman at tix.timeplex.com (Daniel Roman) Subject: Re: Beer Concentrate Arthur, I heard a commercial for Natural Lite (or is it Light) beer where they talked about Coors Lite (or is it Light :-) being shipped in tankers as a concentrate to Virginia and reconstituted there with Virginia water as opposed to Rocky Mountain spring water. This radio spot was on a major New York City station August 22nd so if the spots were supposed to have been pulled prior to that it's news to them! If I recall correctly, there was a short spot in Zymurgy as well as the New York Times before Christmas 1991. I would have to surmise that there is something to this and Coors is none too happy ;-) Anyway, the radio spot goes on to say that since Natural Light is brewed locally and not shipped concentrated in tanker cars you should buy it because it's fresher, and by implication, a more "honest" beer. I personally don't care what Coors does with Coors Light (I don't like Perrier either), just as long as they keep the Killians and Winter Fest in their product line! - -- ____________________________________________________________________ Dan Roman Internet: roman at tix.timeplex.com Return to table of contents
Date: 25 Aug 1992 10:46:17 -0300 From: Ed Hitchcock <ECH at AC.DAL.CA> Subject: Clean siphoning In the last HBD Chris was looking for a method of siphoning cleanly. I believe Papazian would blame his troubles on insufficient relaxation, but to help Chris and others relax, here is a simple way to start siphoning without sucking or using motorized pumps. Items required: one two-hole bung (I have seen two-hole orange rubber carboy caps, they will do nicely); one bicycle tire pump; siphon tubing. First, take the bike pump apart and reverse the washer so that it makes a seal when pulling, rather than pushing. Then connect some siphon hose from the bike pump to one hole of the bung. Connect siphon hose to the other hole, and run it to the brew. The hose may be extended from the bung down to the bottom of the carboy to prevent splashing, or left at the level of the bung to allow splashing if siphoning cooled wort before pitching. Step three, pull on the bike pump a few times. This sucks air out of the carboy, which draws wort in through the hose. This technique also works for starting flow through a chiller. If one is over-worried about sanitation and handling the equipment, pick up some surgical gloves at the local pharmacy. -Ed Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 08:52:46 -0600 From: craigman at casbah.acns.nwu.edu Subject: Brewin' In Chicago hasn at midway.uchicago.edu (Sheheryar Hasnain) writes: >Any one know of any stores in Chicago other than Brewin Beer and Indoor >Garden. >The Yellow Pages had "Brew for less" but when I called, the number had been >disconnected (hint!). Since I dont have a car, a store closer to me would >help (plus I cant believe that Chicago could have only 2 stores!). >Thanks You know, it's funny, but I've only found one other supplier in Chicago. Since I've found it convenient to shop at IGS, I've never been to or called any other. In Elmhurst, you should find Winemakers. I don't know about the address, but I think it's on Elmhurst road right across the street from Who's On First, the now defunct comedey club. As far as IGS is concerned, I've been homebrewing 1 1/2 years and have only ever been out there once, and their stock variety has more than doubled since my first purchase. Call them up (800) 444 2837. They'll send you a list and sell you what-u-want. The fellow I've always spoken to is quite friendly (a rarity in this city) and lends good advice when I need it. Happy Homebrew LizardArm craigman at casbah.acns.nwu.edu (craig anderson) Return to table of contents
Date: 25 Aug 92 09:04:28 CDT From: "Richard Moreaux" <RMOREAUX at oz.umb.ksu.edu> Subject: Catalogs I would like some information on where to get catalogs that carry homebrewing supplies as I have not found any stores in the Manhattan, ks area. I would also like the address to Zymurgy. Thanks in advance! +--------------------------------+----------------------------------+ | Richard Moreaux :-) | rmoreaux at oz.umb.ksu.edu | | computer consultant | moreaux at ksuvm.ksu.edu | | Computer systems office | | | Kansas State University | | +--------------------------------+----------------------------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 09:01:18 MDT From: pyle at intellistor.com (Norm Pyle) Subject: Re: Brewing Disaster A couple of years ago in my brewing youth I had an interesting experience: My own brewing disaster came in the winter here in Colorado, my second batch, I think. It too involved cooling the wort. I hadn't learned about wort chillers. I didn't even have the sense to put the cold water in my primary prior to adding the hot wort (oxidation? what's that?). Soooo, I sanitized my 7 gallon glass carboy primary and heated it up with hot water before adding the hot wort (I did know a little about thermal shock...but not enough). The hot wort was not a problem going into the carboy (fooled you, didn't I?). I then added cool water on top of the hot wort, no problem. Well, the temp was still too high; I could tell by touch that it was over a hundred degrees F. I decided to put it outside in the cold Colorado air to cool it faster. When I was carrying it out, the hot bottom started getting to my hands (the thermal mass of the original hot wort really had the bottom of that carboy toasty). I decided I'd better put it down quickly before I dropped it and, heaven forbid, broke it. Well, the spot I chose (or got stuck with) had a small patch of snow which I didn't really pay attention to, since I was starting to get concerned with the first layer of skin on my hands. You guessed it this time, the carboy cracked from the thermal shock of the snow against the hot carboy. Only a small bit of hot wort came out the bottom and then the contraction of the fluids inside pulled the carboy back intact! It was holding! I decided "if I'm going to lose a carboy I'm sure as h*ll going to try and save that homebrew". Sooooo, I went and got another carboy and sanitized it, figuring on racking off most of the wort while avoiding the bottom few inches to prevent sucking up some glass shards. Of course, as soon as I pulled the foil, or plastic wrap, off the top of the carboy the vaccuum was broken. The carboy came apart and the goods were lost. And then depression set in... It was an interesting crack, though, in that the entire bottom of the carboy came off clean in a disk shape. Moral: Use a wort chiller, OR put cold water in the carboy before adding the hot wort, OR use a plastic primary, OR use some common sense... Norm (brewing adolescent) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 08:36:58 -0700 From: mcnally at wsl.dec.com Subject: re: where is Bayreuth Just goes to show ya: as the "where is Iowa" affair demonstrated a year ago, and as my latest foray into the dimwit zone reinforces, it's real dangerous to attempt geographymanship ploys without access to a map. Sorry Darryl. On to beer. I've been working my way through a "Belgique" ale brewed with some "Ambre" malt I got from Liberty. At the time, I had no mill, so the crush was achieved with a marble rolling pin (see "dimwit zone" above). The crush was thus insanely uneven. The beer is not bad, but it's kinda thin; the head consists of relatively big short-lived bubbles. I suspect that the poor crush is in some way responsible, but I'm not able to rationally explaiin it to myself. Suggestions? _-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_- Mike McNally mcnally at wsl.dec.com Digital Equipment Corporation Western Software Lab Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 08:43:04 PDT From: gaulandm at tekig7.pen.tek.com (Mike Gauland) Subject: Scottish Ale Recipe Wanted I've tasted a couple of micro brews claiming to be "Scottish Style Ale". Would anyone out there have a recipe in this style (preferably extract or partial mash)? Bottoms up, Mike Return to table of contents
Date: 25 Aug 92 08:54:54 U From: "Rad Equipment" <rad_equipment at rad-mac1.ucsf.EDU> Subject: Siphon Starting Subject: Siphon Starting Time:8:34 AM Date:8/25/92 Chris Estes mentioned his concerns for starting siphons when he uses the "fill first with water" method. I frequently use this approach when racking. Here's how I do it. I transfer from my 15 gallon fermenter to kegs with a 1/2 inch siphon. The cane is made from soft copper so it can be sanitized with boiling water. The tubing (about 5') is stored in a bleach solution between uses and rinsed in water just prior to use (about a 1/2 gallon of boiling water in a large pot with tubing submerged in it). When I have the cane in place, I take 2 large hemostats (about 10") and pinch off both ends of the tubing in the pot, trapping the solution inside, and remove the tube from the water. I pinch one end of the tube leaving enough free to mate with the cane. Hand contact at this end isn't a problem since you're only concerned with the inside at this end. Once mated, I clamp the tube to the cane with a plastic pinch clamp and remove the hemostat at that end. The other end of the tube is then lowered and its hemostat removed, starting the siphon. RW... Russ Wigglesworth CI$: 72300,61 |~~| UCSF Medical Center Internet: Rad Equipment at RadMac1.ucsf.edu |HB|\ Dept. of Radiology, Rm. C-324 Voice: 415-476-3668 / 474-8126 (H) |__|/ San Francisco, CA 94143-0628 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 09:28:04 PDT From: gak at wrs.com (Richard Stueven) Subject: Jeff's Geography Lesson >No, Linz (Austria) is east of Munich. >Bayreuth is directly NORTH of Munich (about 200km). >Kulmbach (home of EKU) is ~25km NNW of Bayreuth. >Ceske Budejovice (Budweis) is ~230km ENE of Munich. >Plzen (Pilsen) is ~220km NNE of Munich. And I'm thousands of kilometers from all these places... :-( gak Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 09:35:49 PDT From: rstya at sparky.mda.ca (Roy Styan) Subject: RE: Siphons > In HBD #954 Chris Estes writes: > Starting siphons is a part of brewing that I WORRY about! ... I have found a very simple solution for siphoning worries. Rubber gloves. I thoroughly clean and sanitize the siphon, put my gloves on, and dip these in a jar of sanitzing solution. Then I can pick up the siphon and manhandle it any way I want. To start the siphoning action, I jamb a sanitized pipet into the end of the siphon and suck on it. When the flow starts, the pipet is removed and the siphon's end stuck in the carboy. It doesn't take much care to ensure that nothing but sanitized parts touch the siphon. - Roy - Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 13:35:53 -0400 From: Alan Mayman <maymanal at scvoting.fvo.osd.mil> Subject: Woodruff Howdy, After sampling a May wine from a local winery I was very impressed with the flavor of Woodruf(f?). If anyone has used this herb before in mead or beer please e-mail me about your experience. - Thanks, Alan Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 13:05:29 CDT From: tony at spss.com (Tony Babinec) Subject: lallemand windsor ale yeast--a data point I picked up some of Lallemand's "Windsor" and "Nottingham" yeast at the AHA Milwaukee conference. I don't customarily use dry yeast, but I recognize that it's convenient and that many use it. I recently used Windsor to ferment a Bitter, and to all appearances, it performed well. I first rehydrated the yeast by sprinkling it into some pre-boiled tepid water in a flask and letting it sit for 10 minutes. I then added some sterile wort and put a fermentation lock on. The yeast took off relatively quickly, say, within an hour. Meanwhile, I finished the boil, chilled the hopped wort, and combined the wort and yeast in the primary. Fermentation was complete within about 3 or 4 days at an ambient basement temperature of 68 degrees F. The wort clarified nicely. I have since racked to secondary, dry- hopped, kegged, and tasted it, and noticed nothing amiss. This account is merely one data point. I cannot speak in any technical way to the purity of the yeast. But it seems that if the yeast is well-handled and fresh when you get it, it will produce a clean beer. I intend to use the Nottingham yeast on a similar recipe to see whether it performs any differently. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 13:12:12 -0500 From: cab at jezebel.wustl.edu (Christopher Butler) Subject: Wanted: Brewpub listing for San Fran. I will be traveling to San Francisco in a couple of weeks and I would like to get a listing of all of the microbreweries and brewpubs in San Francisco. A while ago on HBD (early spring) I saw such a listing, but didn't think I would be going to SF so soon. So, if someone could send such a list directly to me at cab at jezebel.wustl.edu, I would be very happy. Thanks Christopher Butler Graduate Student (Mathematics) cab at jezebel.wustl.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 11:17:15 PDT From: thomasf at deschutes.ico.tek.com (Thomas D. Feller) Subject: Metal Taste and Mashing Questions I again want to thank everyone for the help and ideas about my first all grain brews. Thanks!!!! Now to the problems/questions, I have been using my SS soda kegs for both primary and secondary fermenters for the past year and I have been quite happy with the way they work. On the pickup tubes of my two primary kegs I have short(~1 in.) pieces of copper pipe with caps on one end. These work like the caps on sphioning tubes to keep me from picking stuff of the bottom of the kegs. I got the idea for these caps from an article in Zymurgy about transfer from keg to keg. I transfered my Blueberry Wheat beer from the primary to my secondary over the weekend, I took a sample and tasted it. It has a very bitter metal taste, I also notice this metal taste in a Blackberry Stout I made about a year ago. With the stout the taste when away in about two weeks but I used much less berries than my Blueberry wheat and of course the stout flavor could have hidden some of the metal taste. I figured I would give my wheat beer a month or so and see if the metal taste went away. Well,last night I cleaned out the primary keg which had the wheat beer in it and when I remove the copper cap it looked like it had been etched by an acid. I had cleaned it well before putting the wheat brew in it and at that time it was smooth. I use iodophor as my sanitizer so I don't think it was etched by my sanitizing agent. I believe the berries are the cause, what does the HBD think? I am going to throw all my copper caps away and use a SS pickup tube with about 0.75 in cut off the bottom. This should do the same job as the caps and elimate the question of the copper. The only problem is that all the fresh Blueberries are gone so I will have to frozen but that is the way we lrean. Ok, now about my second all grain brew. I got a stopped sparge, I tried blowing in the drain tube, it would flow again for a minute or two and then reduce down to just the smallest of flow. I poured the grain out and cleaned out my Phil's Phalse bottom, I thought the hose which comes out of the bottom was cloging before the grain bed could set. After much messing about I got it to flow again but only a trickle. I used a right angle water shut off value like you see under sinks, so I removed the valve part from the assy. and used a wire to check for clogs. Everything was clear, so I am sure the problem was with the grain bed. I used the grain mill at my local homebrew store and I believe I got too fine a crush and this caused my mash problems. It did slow down my sparge rate from my first brew but this is not the way I wanted to do it. So the point here if you have a poor flow rate look to the crush first and not the size of the holes in you manifold. Tom Feller Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 11:54:46 PDT From: wegeng.henr801c at xerox.com Subject: Vinometers & Beer Making A friend of mine (who is a home winemaker) has told me about a device called a "vinometer" which is used by winemakers to determine the amount of alcohol in their wine. I`ve never seen one, but apparently this is a device with a small diameter glass tube sticking out the top. The glass tube is marked with alcohol percentages. When you pour wine into the vinometer some of it goes up the tube (capillary action?), and the level of liquid in the tube tells you how much alcohol is in the wine. My friend claims that he has tested his vinometer with whiskey and other alcoholic beverages of known alcohol strength, and it`s always been correct. Has anyone ever heard of this device? Does it really work, or is my friend full of baloney? Will it work for beer? While this device would not replace my hydrometer, it sounds like it would be a useful addition to my beer making kit. Thanks, /Don Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 15:23:00 +0000 From: "Joel (J.N.) Avery" <javery at x400gate.bnr.ca> Subject: Bubbles while siphoning / Labelling bottles We've talked for a while about getting bubbles in the siphon hose, and ways to get rid of them, but never about what they mean. Bubbles happened to me a couple of times way back in 85 or 86 when I was a rookie. When this happened, I took it to mean that, since there still was a lot of dissolved carbon dioxide in the beer, that perhaps the beer was not ready to be racked (or bottled, depending on when the event occured). So, like the good book says, I relaxed, and let the beer sit longer in the primary, and I never have this problem any more. So, does the presence of bubbles in the crook of the siphoning tube (I still use the stiff J shaped tube), indicate that the beer is being racked too soon, or does it really matter? For that matter, can you actually rack beer too soon? Labelling brews. Ever since the first batch (which was brewed with a lot of interest and excitement), I have never glued a label to a bottle of my homemade beer - I just write the batch number on the cap. This way, I find it real easy to dig up a bottle of #17 in my beer archive. It also cuts down the bottling process, and the bottle cleanup process, as the cap just goes into the recycle bin. Well that, and perhaps the fact that the White Beaver brewing company dropped from having three employees to just one has resulting in a streamlining of the labour involved in the process (and the quality improved!). Joel Avery <javery at bnr.ca> Slave, Bell-Northern Research Onwer and Operator, White Beaver Brewing Company Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 20:01 GMT From: Phillip Seitz <0004531571 at mcimail.com> Subject: Bringing beer back from Europe In HBD 953 Brian Davis (Brian%mbf.uucp.ics.uci.edu) asked for information about bringing large quantities of beer back from Europe. I replied with some of my experience, but in retrospect I felt guilty for shooting my mouth off without providing any real, hard information. Guilt is the great motivator, so I called the U.S. Customs Service here in Washington to get the scoop. According to the folks there, people are allowed to bring back one liter free of duty or taxes. Depending on the state you are returning into (that is, where you clear customs) you may now or soon will be able to bring in a gallon instead. Beyond this you are supposed to pay a 10% duty, which is calculated at 10% of the purchase VALUE of the beer you are importing. I stress this because duty is payable on stuff you were given, as well as things you bought. But there's a catch (isn't there always?). The Customs Service doesn't seem to care how much you bring in, as long as you pay the duty. However, the actual amount you can bring in is controlled by each state. In other words, the state where your airport is located (i.e. New York for Kennedy Airport arrivals) can sieze beer if you bring back more than they allow. How much do they allow? Well, that's where I ran out of information. Based on the assumption that most European travelers return through Kennedy Airport, are there any HBD readers in New York who'd be willing to check on this? If you could just figure out who to contact I will be happy to do the calling, and I'm sure that this information will be of use to a good number of readers. For more general information the Customs Service can be reached at 202-927-2095. For information on duties in particular, call 202-927-0770. The guys who know about beer appear to be Arnold Sarasky and Ed Bohannon, whose office can be reached at the second number. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 13:37:35 -0700 (PDT) From: Paul dArmond <paulf at henson.cc.wwu.edu> Subject: RE: Hop questions In HBD 953, Mike Schrempp wonders: Why not let hops dry on the vine?, and How come his fingers don't turn sticky? I've been waiting out the ripening period here in Washington state. We've had some cooler weather and my hops aren't ready to pick yet. I've been bringing samples to the office. My co-workers refer to the little pile of fresh hops as my "hop altar". As the not-yet-fully ripe hops dry, they start to shed some of the lupulin powder. This is very evident if they are kept on a dark surface. The lupulins start coming loose as the hops dry out. If you let them go on the bine, the precious resin glands will be scattered by the wafting breezes. I have a brochure on hop growing that was printed by the John I. Haas Co. It has a chart that shows the alpha content steadily rising from 4% to 8% for clusters during a two week period in August. The rate of change is straight as a line. The booklet says that ripeness and picking time is determined by testing for alpha acid content. Though the chart doesn't tell you much, I assume that alpha production levels off and then falls, with the best time to pick, just as the curve levels off. My dad (he's 74) used to pick hops in Yakima when he was a kid. He says that his hands would be black from the hops at the end of the day. He also said that the hops made people's hands very sore, though he can't remember if it was the sticky stuff or the roughness of the bines. Some people wore gloves, but that made it harder to pick. I'll ask him more about it next time I see him. Paul de Armond -- The flames go out if you don't feed them Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 15:58:28 -0500 From: "Jim Ellingson" <jimme at pi28.arc.umn.edu> Subject: Altbier/Oktoberfest Recipe There was recently an inquiry about alts and Oktoberfest recipes. We are posting this recipe in response to that request. We have not yet bottled, but we felt compelled to post initial results so that others wishing to make a similar brew for Oktoberfest will have time to do so. This is an initial recipe only, and is not meant for inclusion in the Cat's Meow (should another one be created). A complete recipe with taste results will be posted at a later date. Brewers: Cush Hamlen (cush at msc.edu) and Jim Ellingson(jimme at ahpcrc.umn.edu) Wishing to create an Oktoberfest-style beer, but lacking facilities to lager during the summer months, we decided to try our hands at an Oktoberfest-style altbier. At racking to secondary, it shows promise, so we hereby post the following recipe for: "ALTOBERFEST" 10 # 6-row pale malt 1/2 # caramel malt (90L) 1/2 # toasted malt - also called Victory malt (25L) 1/8 # chocolate malt (350L) 1 tsp gypsum 1 oz. Hallertau hops (alpha = 4.5), boil 60 minutes 1/2 oz. Tettnanger hops (alpha = 2.6), steeped 5 minutes 1/2 oz. Tettnanger hops (alpha = 2.6), dry-hopped 1 tsp Irish moss, last 10 minutes of boil Wyeast "European" yeast (#1338) in 3 cups 'starter' (SG = 1.030) Procedure: Use step-mash: add 2.75 gallons 130F water to achieve a 120 - 124 grist, hold 15 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes (shortened protein rest). Add 1.4 gallons 200F water to achieve a 150F grist. Hold 5 minutes. Raise grist temperature to 158 (we used direct heat on a stove). Hold 25 minutes or until iodine test shows conversion. Raise temperature to 170 (mash-out). Hold 15 minutes. Sparge with 5.5 gallons water, maintaining 170F grain-bed temperature. Boil one hour. Add Irish moss for last 10 minutes of boil. Add 1/2 oz. Tettnanger hops as heat is turned off. Allow to steep for 5 minutes. Cool wort to pitching temperature (imersion chiller, 30 minutes to 70F.) Yield: 5.5 gallons at OG = 1.052. Pitched to starter 48 hours after breaking capsule. Pitched to wort 3 days later, long past krausen. Slow bubbles in 7 hours. Established a nice steady fermentation in 18 hours (a bubble every 15 Seconds.) Transfer to secondary and dry hop with 1/2 oz. Tettnanger after seven days. SG at racking = 1.016. Comments: The 1/8 # of chocolate malt gave a surprisingly dark, reddish brown color to this brew. Not too far out of character, but not quite what we had anticipated. Fermentor was still bubbling about 1 bubble every minute, and wort was cloudy at racking time. This yeast is supposed to be a slow working yeast, so this did not concern us. The aroma of fermentation was yeasty, but quite pleasant. Tasting at racking showed a smooth brew, perhaps a bit under-hopped (by Pacific Northwest Standards. By MaltWest Standards it's fine to hoppy }:~)!!). The dry-hopping will help balance the malt flavor. The 'Alt' character of the yeast is very apparent, and very delicious. We plan to bottle in about two weeks, and will post a complete recipe/comments sometime after. Too bad we have to wait until Oktober to REALLY enjoy this batch! Cheers, Cush and Jim - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Jim Ellingson jimme at ahpcrc.umn.edu AHPCRC/University of Minnesota (612) 626-8087 1100 Washington Ave. So. Minneapolis, MN 55415 - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 14:32:00 -0500 From: roy.rudebusch%travel at wugate.wustl.edu (Roy Rudebusch) Subject: need yeast From: wugate.wustl.edu!travel!roy rudebusch Dear Friends; Anybody have a trappist yeast slant that they could part with? Send to: Roy Rudebusch IMO Homebrew Supply 2901 Hallmark St. Louis, MO 63125 I figure $5 is about fair.(?) Thanks! * OLX 2.2 * marriage is ok, but I wouldn't recommend it for singles Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1992 18:14 EDT From: Kinney Baughman <BAUGHMANKR at CONRAD.APPSTATE.EDU> Subject: Siphon starters Chris Estes asks: >Anyway... My question: Has anyone ever used a hand or drill operated pump >for racking. Don't know about drill operated pumps but HBD regular and gadget-maker extraordinaire, Russ Wigglesworth, distributes The Sucker, a Siphon Starter. It's low-tech but sure to please. You could email him for details. Kinney baughmankr at conrad.appstate.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 16:49:41 PDT From: Bob Devine 25-Aug-1992 1642 <devine at sfbay.enet.dec.com> Subject: Re: BEER CONCENTRATE The gist of the Anheuser-Busch v. Coors lawsuit stems from the advertising that Coors does. Its claim of fresh Rocky Mountain spring water was challenged by A-B because Coors brews high-gravity batches at its Golden Colorado site and then ships the undiluted beer via refrigerated railcars to its Virginia bottling plant. A-B claims that by adding Virginia water to dilute the beer Coors is practicing false advertising. I agree that A-B is factually right on this (even though the Coors plant is near a mountain called "Rocky Mountain" in Virginia!) However, PLEASE don't discuss this in HBD since it ain't homebrewing! Bob "who died and appointed me arbiter?" Devine Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 19:55:52 EDT From: chuck at synchro.com (Chuck Cox) Subject: Re: Digest reader/extractor for Unix? Stefan Karlsson asks: > > I've seen programs for reading the digest in a nice way for > PC and Mac, but does someone know about such a program for Unix, > for example a script for sed or emacs. mp -d breaks pages > for printing but it would be nice being able to extract > a single article. Please post or email. >From what I've seen on the digest, and in private email, I think the following might be of general interest to the digest even though its not strictly homebrew-related. Here's the 'undigest' script I use. This works on my mutant, antiquated Xenix system, so you will probably have to change at least the 'execmail' line to work on any reasonable system. # # split digest on stdin into separate messages # # usage: undigest reply_address recipient_address # # init variables FROM=$1 TO=$2 TMP="/tmp/ud.$FROM" # copy stdin to tmp file cat - > $TMP # split tmp file into individual article files csplit -s -k -f $TMP. $TMP '%^Date:%' '/^Date:/' {99} 2> /dev/null # mail each article to recipient for MSG in $TMP.?? do (echo "Reply-To: $FROM"; cat $MSG) | /usr/lib/mail/execmail -f $FROM $TO done # clean up rm $TMP* Here's how its invoked from my '.elm/filter-rules' file: if ( from = "homebrew" ) then execute "/usr/local/bin/undigest hbd chuck" I use the Elm mailer and filter. You can accomplish the same thing with most modern mailers. Since the individual messages are mailed, you can use additional rules to filter each article. If you don't have a filter program, you can probably establish a mail alias to receive the digest and send it to the 'undigest' program. See your sysadmin for details. Warning, ranting ahead: You'd be amazed how much the quality and attitude of the digest improves with a little filtering to delete articles from certain authors, with certain subjects, or containing certain keywords. My filter normally removes one or two articles per digest (except during the recent promotional campaign when most articles were tossed). Yet it hasn't interfered with any threads that mattered to me. As unmoderated mailing lists grow, the signal-to-noise ratio degrades. Thats just a fact of life. Don't worsen the problem by complaining about it to the list. Use your computer to filter out most of the noise. After all, shouldn't these #%& at * machines do something to improve our lives? - -- Chuck Cox <chuck at synchro.com> In de hemel is geen bier, daarom drinken wij het hier. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 19:35:34 CDT From: Darren Evans-Young <DARREN at ua1vm.ua.edu> Subject: Cajun Cooker/Dry Hopping/Marga Mulino/Siphon/Coors On Thu, 20 Aug 92 10:00:45 CDT, Phil Miller <pmiller at mmm.com> said: >How long can I expect a standard tank of propane to last if I use >a Cajun Cooker type burner to heat my wort for boiling (i.e., rocket >blast mode to bring 5-6 gallons to a boil and then idle mode to >maintain a vigorous boil for 1 1/2 hours)? > Phil, My first tank just ran out last Sunday. I have 2 tanks so there is no down time. I know I've gotten at least 6 batches at the modes you mention. I'll check my records at home and give you an exact count soon. - --------------- On 20 Aug 92 13:59:00 EST, Ruth Mazo Karras <RKARRAS at PENNSAS.UPENN.EDU> said: >I dry hopped a Liberty Ale tastealike (I hope) with 1 oz. of Cascade pellets >in the secondary. The pellets pretty rapidly expanded to form an inch-thick >layer on top of the beer. If I shake the carboy they fall into suspension, but >eventually float to the top again. Now that fermentation activity has slowed >considerably, I think it is about time to bottle, BUT even when the hops are >all at the top of the carboy the beer is very cloudy. Here are the questions: >(i) does dry hopping tend to make beer cloudy, or should I look elsewhere for >my problem and (ii) how do I bottle this beer without getting the hops in the >bottles? I dry hop all the time with pellets. Simply swirl your carboy about twice a day to get the hops to mix with the beer. Somewhere between the first and second week, all of the hops will have sunk to the bottom and your beer will be clear. Patience! To keep from getting hops in your bottles, wrap a piece of sanitized cheesecloth over the end of the racking tube and secure with a plastic wire tie. - --------------- On Thu, 20 Aug 92 18:34:22 EDT, Jay Hersh <hersh at expo.lcs.mit.edu> said: >Solution: I went to the hardware store and got a disc shaped grinding >stone. I used this to grind 4 small (~1/8 inch) grooves parallel to >the length of the roller. These grooves are pretty shallow, but they >work real well to pull the grain in. While I did dissasemble the mill >to grind the roller I now realize that that was not necessary at all, >I could have simply used the table clamp that comes with it to hold >the whoe assembly in place, and have ground the roller in place with >no problem. Jay, I have this problem too. Can you be more specific? Did the grooves go from one end of the roller to the other? Or just in the middle? How far apart did you space the grooves? Did/Can you access the rollers from underneath? .................................. / -------------------------------- \ | -------------------------------- | | -------------------------------- | \ .................................. / Is this how you did the grooves (the dashes)? - --------------- Re: Siphon bubbles The best way to siphon from a carboy is to use a carboy cap. This orange cap has two openings, one for your racking tube, another for you to blow through. I never have siphon bubbles. I blow through hard enough to get a good fast flow. Also, if your siphon stops for some reason, it's easy to restart without you having to put your mouth on the siphon hose. Dont worry about blowing into the carboy, your breath is relatively sterile. In any case, I've NEVER had an infection. If you have bubbles reform at the junction of the soft vinyl hose and the racking tube, you probably have an air leak. Make sure the hose is on securely. - --------------- Re: Coors I would think the best way for Coors to transport would be a high gravity beer, already fermented. That way you have alcohol present to ward off bacteria and not as much beer to ship. Tanker cars just dont seem to clean to me. Just my 2 cents. Darren Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 92 15:28:37 EST From: Brett Shorten <s05bas at cc.uow.edu.au> Subject: diluting boiled wort I have a question about diluting boiled wort in order to obtain a target OG figure. Last weekend, I followed Line's recipe for 'Guinness Extra Stout', but after boiling and chilling I ended up with 21+ litres of 1057 wort, rather than 1045 as Line suggests. I figured to lose about 2 litres due to break material, so that leaves 19 litres. I figured that if I added 3 litres of (pre-boiled) water, I would end up with 22 litres of wort at 19/22*57 = 49, or 1049 OG. My question is, is the formula really this simple? Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 92 11:19:16 CDT From: whg at tellabs.com Subject: Re: Digest reader/extractor for Unix? I wrote a really stupid but actually quite useful little program about a year ago. I recieve the HBD in the mail and write it out to a "temp" file. The I run my "hbd" program on it and it. It simply scans through the temp file and inserts a unix mail heading above each digest line that starts with the string "Date:". It works something like "hbd < temp > HBD". Then I do a "mail -f HBD" and voila each digest artical is its own piece of mail. You can scan the heading, go to a particular mailing, go back to an artical, and save individual articals. A reply ("r" from the mail prompt) will reply directly to the sender. Although this is a rather "low tech" solution it works great 99.9% of the time. Every once in a while an actual line of text will start with "Date" and become its own piece of mail but not often. Folling is the above C program: /******************************************************* 1) save the digest to "temp" 2) hbd < temp > HBD 3) mail -f HBD ********************************************************/ # include <stdio.h> main() { char dummy,line[81]; int i; i = 0; while( (dummy = getchar()) != EOF){ if( dummy != '\n') { line[i] = dummy; i++; } else { if ( (line[0] == 'D') && (line[1] == 'a') && (line[2] == 't') && (line[3] == 'e') ) /* This line just signals the start of a mail artical. You can make the user, date and time whatever you want. | v */ printf("From whg Wed May 15 04:27:24 1991 \n"); line[i] = '\0'; printf("%s\n",line); i=0; } } } Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 92 08:26:42 EDT From: garti at mrg.xyplex.com (Mark R. Garti) Subject: liquid yeast I recently purchased two packs of brewers choice (British Ale and London Ale). One was dated Aug the other Jul. According to the directions on the package, 1 extra day for each month past due, in addition to the first day. It continues to read that its ready after the package swells to 1 inch thick. Well at 75F i got 1 inch in about 4-5 hours not 1 day. I had to refrigerate the package as was not prepared to brew for at least another 15 hrs. What are the correct incubation instructions for these packages (or better yet what seems to work? )? Also i just poured the contents of the package into my primarys. Both primarys had a good inch of krausen after 20 hrs. I've heard of many people making starters with the packages? How? Does this yield a faster, stronger start? Am I making any major mistakes? Thanks, Mark Return to table of contents
Date: 26 Aug 1992 08:59:15 -0400 (EDT) From: "Jeff McCartney (919) 541-7340" <FP$JEFF at RCC.RTI.ORG> Subject: Commercialism on the Network ? ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ WARNING WARNING: FLAME in progress............... ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ >>Date: Sun, 23 Aug 92 10:23 CDT >>From: Jack Schmidling >>Subject: WHO IS WHO IN CHIGAGO Jack "shared" his observations of a review of a Chicago homebrew club meeting he found in The Chicago Tribune. Nothing useful was said until the end when he added (realizing many of the brewers owned his MALTMILL): >> What was even more peculiar was that the third picture was indeed of a >> MALTMILL, but it was cropped in such a way that all one could see was the >> hopper full of grain and the logo carefully excluded. >> Now this normally would not bother anyone except that there was no shortage >> of plugs in the article for gizmos for sale and places to buy, associated >> with others in the article. >> Do I detect a conspiracy? Yes! There is a conspiracy! It's called marketing your product on the Homebrew Digest. I see no other point of your article than putting in a plug for the MALTMILL. I don't doubt it's a fine product - when I make the switch to all grain (I've been doing extracts since 1981 and make some FINE beers), I will certainly put these feelings aside and probably buy one! However, I'm tired of reading this crap on the digest. Let's get some sharing of ideas rather than sharing of advertising on the digest!!!!! Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #956, 08/27/92