This is a photo of one of the two liquid level sighting glasses that I constructed. The glass I happened to find while doing an inspection of a textile mill when I was an Air Quality Engineer for the State of North Carolina, so I can't help you much here on where to find your own. The glass tube, which was from a broken sighting glass on one of the mill's tanks, was long enough for me to cut in-two and use in two of my own sighting levels. I cut a piece of copper tubing long enough to protect the glass inside of it, and then using a small metal cutting tool (Dremel) I cut out two windows on each side so that I can look through the glass.
Seating the glass in the bottom of the copper tubing was tricky. I used a short 2" piece of soft plastic tubing just like you use in your racking cane. I smeared a little bit of non-toxic silicon glue (aquarium grade) on the outside of one end of this plastic tube and inserted it into the bottom of the glass tube. I then place more glue on the outside of this plastic tube and on the bottom of the glass and then inserted the glass into the copper shroud. The copper threaded fitting, which I soldered onto the end of the copper shroud, is smaller inside than the glass tubing. The glass tubing rests on the shoulders of the inside of the fitting with the glue making a tight seal.
Another possible solution for building your own sighting glass is to use heavy vinyl tubing instead of glass. You should still use the copper shroud as it will provide both a means to support the tubing and protect it from the heat of your burner.
Metal Support Railing
This is a close up the metal railing which supports the kegs on top of the wooden 2x4 frame. This allowed me to construct the frame so that the wood would be significantly far enough away from the heat of the burners so as not to be a fire hazard. I bought these at the local hardware store (Lowe's or Home Depot) for just a few buck each and cut them to the right length using a metal cutting disc on my circular saw.
This gadget is so simple, it's a no-brainer. Just find a cheap plastic carboy and cut the bottom off. Then cut a hole in a scrap of plywood just big enough to take the neck of the inverted carboy. I used a doorknob-hole cutter for this. Insert carboy neck into plywood, invert, and rest on top of your favorite grain mill. I have used this to mill over 30 pounds of grain before and there was still plenty of room to spare.
The grain mill pictured here is the JSP MaltMill (http://user.mc.net/arf/) It is a top-of-the-line mill that is so easy to use it is fun. And one of the best things about it is that it comes with a lifetime warranty that remains valid even if you motorize it, which I plan to do some day. Most other warranties are voided if you motorize.
Electric Burner Ignition
This is one of my favorite gadgets. I used to burn my knuckles trying to re-light my gas burners. Even the long lighters weren't long enough and I would hit my fingers on the hot kettle. One day I noticed the replacement electric ignition switches for gas grills in my local hardware store. It was only about $10, so I figured I give it a try. I drilled a hole in the plywood to accept the push-button (notice the red button in the lower left corner of the photo) and the just wedged the ignition box firmly inside the grill. At first it wouldn't work, but then I realized that normally the metal frame of the charcoal grill acts as the ground for the circuit. Mine was mounted in wood and so the circuit wasn't complete. I then just added a wire from the body of the ignitor button to the body of the grill to complete the circuit. Now all I have to do is open the gas and press a button! Pooof! My grill is lit.
This is a photo of one of the two liquid level sighting glasses that I constructed. The glass I happened to find while doing an inspection of a textile mill when I was an Air Quality Engineer for the State of North Carolina, so I can't help you much here on where to find your own. The glass tube, which was from a broken sighting glass on one of the mill's tanks, was long enough for me to cut in-two and use in two of my own sighting levels. I cut a piece of copper tubing long enough to protect the glass inside of it, and then using a small metal cutting tool (Dremel) I cut out two windows on each side so that I can look through the glass.![[sighting glass diagram - exploded]](sighting-glass-exploded.gif)
![[support railing - photo]](railing.gif)
This is a close up the metal railing which supports the kegs on top of the wooden 2x4 frame. This allowed me to construct the frame so that the wood would be significantly far enough away from the heat of the burners so as not to be a fire hazard. I bought these at the local hardware store (Lowe's or Home Depot) for just a few buck each and cut them to the right length using a metal cutting disc on my circular saw.
This gadget is so simple, it's a no-brainer. Just find a cheap plastic carboy and cut the bottom off. Then cut a hole in a scrap of plywood just big enough to take the neck of the inverted carboy. I used a doorknob-hole cutter for this. Insert carboy neck into plywood, invert, and rest on top of your favorite grain mill. I have used this to mill over 30 pounds of grain before and there was still plenty of room to spare.
This is one of my favorite gadgets. I used to burn my knuckles trying to re-light my gas burners. Even the long lighters weren't long enough and I would hit my fingers on the hot kettle. One day I noticed the replacement electric ignition switches for gas grills in my local hardware store. It was only about $10, so I figured I give it a try. I drilled a hole in the plywood to accept the push-button (notice the red button in the lower left corner of the photo) and the just wedged the ignition box firmly inside the grill. At first it wouldn't work, but then I realized that normally the metal frame of the charcoal grill acts as the ground for the circuit. Mine was mounted in wood and so the circuit wasn't complete. I then just added a wire from the body of the ignitor button to the body of the grill to complete the circuit. Now all I have to do is open the gas and press a button! Pooof! My grill is lit.