HOMEBREW Digest #1018 Mon 23 November 1992

Digest #1017 Digest #1019


        FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
                Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  Broad Ripple ESB (Scott Weintraub)
  West Virginia Brew (tim)
  re: beer & ale  (R.) Cavasin" <cav at bnr.ca>
  New Brewing On-line (vers.1.1) (Carlo Fusco)
  Hop growing (Aaron Birenboim)
  SN Celebration Ale (Brian Bliss)
  inconsistent carbonation (Brian Bliss)
  HBD1016 Re grain mills (Garrett Hildebrand)
  Aging beer from Micah Millspaw ("Bob Jones")
  Random musings (John DeCarlo)
  Suspended Animation (pmiller)
  Ale vs Beer/Lovibond Questions (Phil Hultin)
  oatmeal honey recipe wanted/needed ("frank lopez" )
  Strange infection? (Mark N. Davis)
  single-stage vs. two-stage fermentation ("Knight,Jonathan G")
  Ring around the carboy (John Williams)
  Brewers Publications Quality (Paul dArmond)
  book on Belgium and Dutch cafe (Victor Reijs)
  Filling Bottles (Jack Schmidling)
  Belgian Beer (fjdobner)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 20 Nov 92 8:08:38 EST From: sfw at trionix.com (Scott Weintraub) Subject: Broad Ripple ESB I recently took a trip to Indianapolis and, due to the suggestion of some HBD'ers went to the Broad Ripple Brew Pub. WOW!!! Of the brew pubs Ive tried, this was the best by far. The beer was excellent, as was the food (you must try the armadillo eggs). Anyway, they had an ESB which I would love to make at home...does anyone know their recipe? - --Scott Weintraub TRIONIX ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- | Scott Weintraub | TRIONIX Research Laboratory, Inc. | | Software Engineer | 8037 Bavaria Road | | | Twinsburg, OH 44087 | | e-mail: sfw at trionix.com | Voice: 1-216-425-9055 Fax: 1-216-425-9059 | ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 08:19:23 EST From: tim at mtnet2.wvnet.edu Subject: West Virginia Brew As in the reply for Bill "the former Mountaineer" the migration away from WV is more the norm. Anyway to the point, A brew pub has recently opened in Morgantown WV Aprox. 150 miles north of Charleston, called the one onion I am not sure of the address only that it is on University Ave. I hope to get up that way soon and give it a try, I am sure that it will considered the number one brew pub in the state considering it is the only one. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 09:16:00 +0000 From: "Rick (R.) Cavasin" <cav at bnr.ca> Subject: re: beer & ale Actually, as I read Gayre, the distinction he makes (and it should be noted that it is rather heavily qualified) is that the word ale WAS used to signify an unbittered beverage, while beer WAS the bittered counterpart. While he speaks on their relative alcoholic strengths, he concludes that the use of a bittering agent (hops or other herbs) is the main thing that separated a beer from an ale. This distinction became blurred when hops became predominant in brewing, and ales began to be hopped as well. His contention that originally ale and beer would have been made with honey rather than malt must be taken with a decidedly bigger grain of salt since he's delving much deeper into the past on this one. (ie. long before the 'middle ages' I believe) It may be that the two words are effectively synonyms, used in different regions to signify the 'same' thing; differences in brewing style being incidental (ie. Region A says 'Hey ya know what? In region B they put hops in their ale! while Region B says 'Hey! In region A they don't put hops in their beer'). Kind of a chicken and egg sorta thing. Rick C. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 11:44 EST From: Carlo Fusco <G1400023 at NICKEL.LAURENTIAN.CA> Subject: New Brewing On-line (vers.1.1) **************************************************************************** Brewing On-Line (version 1.1) **************************************************************************** >From the Internet you can subscribe to the following daily publications: HomeBrewersDigest: homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Rob Gardner,coordinator) (BEER-L is a redistribution list for the Homebrew Digest. It's address is beer-l at ua1vm.ua.edu. It is for all HBD subscribers. Subscribers are encouraged to use this or any other redistribution list to receive the Homebrew Digest so as to lessen the impact on Rob Gardner's site.) Brewers Forum: brew-request@ expo.lcs.mit.edu (Jay Hersh, coordinator) Mead Lover's Digest: mead-lovers-request@ nsa.hp.com (John Dilley, coordinator) Hard Cider Digest: cider-request@ expo.lcs.mit.edu (Jay Hersh, coordinator) Lambic Digest: lambic-request@ longs.lance.colostate.edu (Mike Sharp, coordinator) JudgeNet Digest: judge-request@ synchro.com (Chuck Cox, coordinator) The Houston Brewing Group: hbg-request@ jpunix.com (For SW Texas, small list) ******************* Usenet: rec.crafts.brewing ******************* email clubs: THE NEW ENGLAND BEER CLUB This new list was created for the promotion of beer related activities in the North East. This is not a competitive list to the _Home_Brew_Digest_ and is not for discussions of homebrewing issues. The charter of this list is to promote homebrew clubs, homebrew competitions, tasting, picnics, pub crawls, brewpubs, breweries, homebrew suppliers and any other organization, news or activity related to beer in the New England area. To subscribe: beer-request@ rsi.com -or- uunet!semantic!beer-request To post: beer at rsi.com -or- uunet!semantic!beer On subscription please include your Full Name and Email Address in the message text. The moderator is Bob Gorman. THE AUSTIN BEER CLUB There is a Austin, Texas Beer club that sends out weekly notification via email. Contact beer at ctci.com to be put on the list. We meet every Tuesday Night(Starts 6:30 or 7:30 depending on the season) at the Dog & Duck Pub, 17th & Guadalupe in Downtown Austin. A diverse crowd shows up, The Celis Brewery people are sometimes there and it a social gathering more than anything else. ******************* Commercial Networks: COMPUSERVE There's a very active beer and homebrew forum on the CompuServe Information Service, sharing online quarters with the wine forum. Unlike Internet, this is not a "free" service; CompuServe charges from $6 an hour (300 bps) to $21/hr (9600 bps) for online time, but the wide participation and quick interactivity make it another outstanding online option for brewers. PRODIGY In the U.S., there's now a dial-up service called Prodigy, run by IBM and Sears. It contains a number of BBSs, including one on Beers & Brewing (under the "Food and Wine" umbrella). It's much more informal than the internet forums, and there's a lot of chatter. Serious brewers might be turned off by the low signal-to-noise ratio. Prodigy costs $14.95/month and requires an IBM-style or Macintosh PC. There are no hourly connect charges because each new display page contains advertisements. ******************** BBS's: There is a new BBS dedicated to brewing information. It post daily issues of Homebrew Digest and is in the process of archiving all information on brewing available. Jami Chism System Operator The Party Line BBS 717-868-5435 4 lines, all 14,400bps v.32bis The Better Brewing Bureau 415-964-4356 24 hour, 2400 bps SySop: Russ Pencin (Mountain View, CA) Local brewing chat, HBD Archived. Not very active these days, but still running. ********************** Other Sources: Fidonet BBS 2:500/275.1, BIERDAT, all day open, +3145727128 BBS ???, NOBODY, all day open, +3123366978 echo-mail: BIER.028 Videotex European Brewery Company (EBC), account needed (more info can be gotten by speach from Heineken, +3171456456) wine: Videotex Dutch-videotex, tel. 06-7400, area VINOTEX pipes/cigars: pipes at paul.rutgers.edu ************* For Canadian Homebrewers: The Canadian Amateur Brewers Association (CABA) is a non-profit organization whose purpose is to promote homebrewing as an enjoyable hobby through educational publications, events, and other activties. CABA 19 Cheshire Dr. Islington, Ontario M9B 2N7 I can forward information if anyone needs it. This is not on-line, I just thought other Canadian homebrewers might be interested. ****************************************************************************** I would like to thank the following people for making this list possible: "76702.764 at CompuServe.COM" "Robin Garr" "Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu" "Spencer W. Thomas" "JCHISM%HSSCAM.decnet at NETVAX.MIS.SEMI.HARRIS.COM" "sherwood at mv.us.adobe.com" "shirley at gothamcity.jsc.nasa.gov" "Victor.Reijs at SURFnet.nl" "Victor Reijs" "HULTINP at QUCDN.QueensU.CA" "Phil Hultin" "LIGAS at SSCvax.CIS.McMaster.CA" "MIKE LIGAS" "bob at rsi.com" Bob Gorman "STROUD%GAIA at leia.polaroid.com" "STROUD" "rad_equipment at radmac1.cgl.ucsf.edu" "Rad Equipment" "ctci.com!dewey at sooner.ctci.com" Dewey Coffman "cja at chmist.zso.dec.com" "Carl J. Appellof" "boomer at sylsoft.com" Richard Akerboom Darren Evans-Young <DARREN at UA1VM.UA.EDU> "ajd at oit.itd.umich.edu" "Arthur Delano" Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 92 09:54:47 MST From: abirenbo at rigel.cel.scg.hac.com (Aaron Birenboim) Subject: Hop growing I just got a street lamp installed in front of my house. I was wondering... could i grow hops up this pole? or do they need something thinner like a string to twine up? the pole is pine, not metal. aaron Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 92 11:23:13 CST From: bliss at csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss) Subject: SN Celebration Ale I picked up a six of Sierra Nevada Celebration Ale (Seasonal) last night. It's made in the true SN style, assertively hopped (Cascades & N Brewer?), somewhat darker in color & heavier body than their regular beer (though it has been awhile since I've drank SNPA), and it had a definite fruitiness to it. I was most impressed by the fine carbonation & creamy mouthfeel. "Scotty, can you give me any more?" bb Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 92 12:05:19 CST From: bliss at csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss) Subject: inconsistent carbonation >The problem is that about half of the bottles have good carbonation and >great head retention while the other half are more-or-less flat. (The >"flat" half do have a little carbonation, but they form only a very >weak head when decanted. The head quickly disappears and the beer >tastes flat when drinking it.) another thing to look for is how much headspace you left. If you left too much, it will take a lot of CO2 to build up enough pressure to keep the rest in solution. If you leave too little, carbonation will begin quicker but you risk glass grenades. This assumes there is sufficient yeast in the beer for "normal" carbonation. bb Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 92 10:59:41 PST From: mdcsc!gdh at uunet.UU.NET (Garrett Hildebrand) Subject: HBD1016 Re grain mills In HBD1016 Daniel Roman remarked, in response to an inquiry about KitchenAid mixer with grain mill, the following: >Forget about it, it's not suitable for the coarse grinding (cracking >really) needed for beer making. I've considered heavily modifying one >but it does not look to be worth the expense or effort if it can even be >done. For what it costs you are better off getting the Marcato or >something (unless you got one as a gift already and don't mind hacking >it up). What is a 'Marcato'? By the way, what do any of you think about the Bell mill? Garrett Hildebrand Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 92 12:20:28 PST From: "Bob Jones" <bjones at novax.llnl.gov> Subject: Aging beer from Micah Millspaw Subject: Aging Beer > Fm: Jack Schmidling > The following is excerpted from THE NEW BREWER, May/Jun 1992. The article is > by Fred Scheer, Frankenmuth Brewery. .................. > "In my research of draft beer, I found that one of the biggest problems is > the age of the beer. As with bottled beer, draft beer does not improve with > age!" > "Draft beer is at the peak of freshness and taste the day it is put into the > keg. Ideally, a brewer would be able to fill his kegs in the morning and get > them back empty at night. But because this is not the case, the beer loses > quality each day after it is kegged." ................... > This view seems at odds with the conventional wisdom of hombrewers and I see > two possiblities: > 1. His "research" is seriously flawed. > 2. People who claim that their beer improves with age are simply confused by the fact that the defects in their beer sometimes mellow out or become less obvious with time. > js First of all this is not a flame. I would however like to say something about the article in question and the aging of beer in general. The article in New Brewer (a publication for the commercial brewing industry) was intended for a non homebrewing audience. I doubt that Mr Scheer's research is flawed, he is a very reputable commercial brewer and is concerned with something quite different than most homebrewers. I have to agree that once beer is packaged it will start to deteriorate and is subject to many detrimental outside influences. This however applies to a finished beer. It does not apply to bottle conditioned or cask conditioned beer or process similar to methode champenois (sp?) these are the ways that most homebrewers package their brews and aging is very important to mature those beers properly. In the of case bottle conditioned beer, both commercial and homemade, these tend to improve with a period of aging that has nothing to do with hiding defects. To even suggest this implies that given enough time, vinegar would become wine, NOT. Being able to achieving the proper maturation of a beer is one the greatest skills a brewer can have, it is a artistry that takes time to aquire. In the case of most commercial beers the maturation process has been completed before the beer is kegged or bottled. If a beer is at it peak when it leaves the brewery where can it go but down? I feel that this assertion by JS is unfounded and is likely to only confuse others to whom, this does not apply. So be patient, let your beer age properly and you will more greatly appreciate efforts, as the taste will reward. micah 11/18/92 Oh, and Jack try your hand at the WG barleywine and see (taste) for yourself if aging improves it or not. Return to table of contents
Date: Friday, 20 Nov 1992 15:51:54 EST From: m14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (John DeCarlo) Subject: Random musings Re: Aging. I mostly agree with everyone's postings, especially those pointing out that homebrew is alive and that stronger beers or those with different additives may take longer to peak. However, let me say that since I have cleaned up my act (better sanitation, better ingredients, better yeast), my beers, IMHO,taste great going into the bottle. I just wait a week to get carbonation. Before that I had to wait for some off-tastes to mellow before the beer was any good. Note that almost anyone can taste the difference in my beers between a week and a month--there is a "freshness" that can be tasted to really new beer. In a few styles, this freshness is probably inappropriate or unexpected. In particular, I made a batch of weizen beer for a club meeting, but put it off so that it had only been in the bottle four days at the time of the meeting. Everyone liked it, but few recognized it as a weizen. A few weeks later it was a good example of the style. Re: Corn syrup If you go out and buy corn syrup in a US supermarket, you should check carefully, as many brands have additives that would probably be unwanted in your beer, such as vanilla flavoring. Re: Digital thermometers I am really happy with the metal thermometer with a dial on top--mine is made by Taylor. Almost instantaneous readings (OK, so you have to wait a second for the hand on the dial to move to the new reading), and you can keep it in your shirt pocket for the extra-nerdy brewer look :-). P.S. Be careful not to let the plastic dial cover get too close to the source of heat while brewing. Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org (or John.DeCarlo at f131.n109.z1.fidonet.org) Fidonet: 1:109/131 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 92 15:08:57 CST From: pmiller at mmm.com Subject: Suspended Animation Greetings. I've found that the guidelines on Wyeast packages for the time required to "grow" them are often wrong. You know, 'Allow 1 extra day for each month past the manufacturing date'. My experience is that the pesky things swell up 1" thick in about a day regardless of how old they are. However, I _know_ I'm going to get burned one of these days if I just assume a one day incubation time. Here's the question: Suppose I start a package 3 days before I brew (assuming 2 days incubation time) and the package swells to bursting after 1 day. Am I better off pitching the package into my starter and letting it sit there for 2 days (so that I end up pitching the starter into the carboy after high krauesen) OR is it possible to chuck a swollen package of Wyeast back into the fridge for a day and then pitch it into my starter 1 day before brewing like usual? Phil pmiller at mmm.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 16:14 EST From: Phil Hultin <HULTINP at QUCDN.QueensU.CA> Subject: Ale vs Beer/Lovibond Questions G.A. Cooper very nicely summed up the ale vs beer question, but perhaps one more comment is in order. We in N. America tend to refer to that mystical time when Hops Arrived On The Scene as if it were a definite thing. And, to the extent that our brewing traditions come from England, this may be so. Hops seem to begin to gain acceptance in England in the early 1500's, and are universal by the end of the 1600's. HOWEVER... on the continent, the use of hops goes back far earlier, in some places, anyhow. There is a mention of a hop garden associated with a brewery in the Hallertau district which dates to about A.D. 730! So, the point is, "Ale" styles and "Beer" styles developed along different paths in different places at different times. This is really no big surprise;-). Anyhow, I have a question. None of the retailers I have purchased malted grains from in the Toronto/Ottawa/Eastern Ontario area seem to have heard of the Lovibond scale. They do not post the data for their products, and when asked, either stare blankly or just say "Our suppliers don't divulge that information to us". So, how can I get at least an estimate of the degree of colour in the malts I use? Is there a comparison chart for Lovibond colour available? And, what suppliers Do in fact ship malts with the Lovibond numbers attached? Thanks all, P. Return to table of contents
Date: 20 Nov 92 18:25:09 PDT From: "frank lopez" <FRANK at 125law1.law.ucla.edu> Subject: oatmeal honey recipe wanted/needed My friend and I are getting ready to brew or Christmas ale. What I am looking for is a recipe for oatmeal honey beer. Any advise or tips or otherwise will be greatly appreciated. Frank Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Nov 92 20:08:09 PST From: Mark N. Davis <mndavis at pbhya.PacBell.COM> Subject: Strange infection? Brewsters, Alas, I have bragged too much. My latest batch appears to be a disaster. Not only did it come out a completely different style than I intended, had a lower SG than targeted, and apparently fermented out leaving too high of an FG, it now has a rather strange type of infection. Floating on top of my more-like-a-porter-Scotch-ale is a clear membrane. You can see parts of it about 1/4 inch up the sides of the carboy as well. Not only that, but there are several pachinko ball size bubbles portruding through, looking like domed buildings on a colonized planet. You can gently nudge the carboy and watch the waves rock underneath the membrane, much like you could with a waterbed mattress. What in the hell is this stuff? A little background on this batch: It was to be an all grain Sctoch Ale (first attempt at style), using nothing too exoctic except maybe 1 cup molasses. I was forced to do a rather stiff mash since I didn't use my normal 4 gallon mashing kettle, and had to fit 8 pounds of grain into my 2.5 gallon pot, with just enough water to fill to the top. I think it was just a tad over 1 quart/pound. Anyways, this made for some tricky heating, and I managed to burn some of the grain. I assume that at least some of the mash was converted at very high temps, which would account for a final gravity of 1.018 from an original gravity of 1.042. I pitched my 'bionic Edme starter' which I described maybe 20 issues back, and it took off with no holds barred. It then dropped dead 2 days later, and I finally racked to a secondary after another 3 days. I let it sit there for another week where a gravity check showed it had dropped only .001 point since racking. I figured that it was just in slow-mo so I left sitting for a while. Its now 2 weeks later and I discovered much to my chagrin this foreign scum floting in MY beer. On the other hand, it smells very good, with an excellent malty nose. Previous tastes from racking and gravity measurements show that its got potential to be a very tasty porter (which the color matches anyway >:-) Another data point is that this is my first batch in a new house, following my standardized procedures. Back to the original question: What's growing in my beer? If it still smells and tastes good, should I bottle anyway and hope for the best? If each bottle then grows its own little membrane, it would be kind of cool to watch people try to pour the bottles, only to have them react more like ketchup! ould it just be time to toss my old hoses, siphon gadgets, spoons, and any other inexpensive pieces and get new ones? I try my best to sanitize each of them before and after use (using predominently Clorox), but maybe deep in the recesses there is a lurking beastie? My last few batches all do seem to have a lingering harshness to them which could indicate a recurring mild infection from somewhere, although I've been rather hop-happy as well of late. In a state of beer denial, Mark Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 92 11:31:55 cdt From: "Knight,Jonathan G" <KNIGHTJ at AC.GRIN.EDU> Subject: single-stage vs. two-stage fermentation I'm wondering about comments I have seen with posted recipes in this forum and in brewing books as well which say something like, "this recipe lends itself to single-stage fermentation." Such statements lead me to the following questions. (1) I've noticed that the darker brews seem to have this said about the more frequently. Is secondary fermentation then of importance primarily (sorry about the pun (:) for clarification of lighter colored brews? (2) Or, do some types of brew ferment more quickly than others? (3) Or, is secondary fermentation always desirable, but the benefits less noticeable with certain types of brew (i.e. you can get away with single- stage fermentation more easily). My beer has improved considerably since I started using a secondary but I also started using liquid yeast, and not splashing my hot wort and a few other things all around the same time. Any thoughts? Jonathan Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 92 14:19:06 EST From: jwilliam at uhasun.hartford.edu (John Williams) Subject: Ring around the carboy Brewers: I have just checked out a bass clone that I put up in a carboy about 2 weeks ago and I found a white ring of spider web like stuff around the neck of the carboy, just above the level of the beer. My first infection that I know of. The question is the beer totally wrecked and not worth the trouble of bottling or will it just have a slightly wierd taste and no effect on my digestive system? I have not pulled the stopper out and tasted the beer so I can not let you knwow what it tastes like. I am scheduled to bottle either Monday (probably today if this goes right in) or Friday so a quick response would be appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help. John W Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1992 16:41:26 -0800 (PST) From: Paul dArmond <paulf at henson.cc.wwu.edu> Subject: Brewers Publications Quality The recent opinions on Pierre Rajotte's book, _Belgian Ale_, have brought to light something that has been troubling me for the last year. The editorial quality of the Brewers Publications books and Zymurgy magazine have been declining. The flaws in Pierre's book are mainly editorial. The unclear passages, the horrible typography in the recipes section, and the poorly written and ineptly laid out captions to the photos are the responsibility of the editor and layout staff. Similarly, the recent Zymurgy Annual is offensive to the eye, with its spindly typeface and uneven illustration style. The prime responsibility of an editorial staff, particularly when producing a series, is to ensure that all of the books are as even in tone and design as possible. Were it not for the covers and the price, you really wouldn't know that these books all came from the same publisher. There are some things that could be done to improve the quality of these publications: 1) Get some experienced writers to work with the authors. This is a standard practice in producing technical books. These writers should concentrate on the clarity and readability of the writing. There should be a clear description of the target reader, level of reading ability, amount of detail, standards for citing other authors (sadly lacking in all but the Fixs' book on Vienna), and the other features that distinguish a series from a group of books with similar-looking covers. 2) Update the glossary with each new book. Currently, the glossary is just a piece of useless boilerplate. For example, there is no entry for candi sugar or knockout in the glossary of Rajotte's book. If it is in the index, it had better be in the glossary as well. 3) Establish some guidelines for overall graphic design, the use of illustrations, recipe typography and the content of captions. The picture on p.27 of Belgian Ale is meaningless without a caption. The uneven layout of the recent annual on Gadgets and Equipment sacrifices readability to meaningless "artsy" design elements. Both Belgian Ale and Porter have serious problems (including massive typos) in the recipe sections. 4) Employ some reviewers to go over the drafts before the book is set in type. One gets the impression that these books are being rushed to press. A book needs to be read by the editor to be sure that it meets the requirements of the series; by the proofreader to catch the mechanical faults; by the consulting writer (see 1 above) for clarity and style; and by the reviewers to make sure that the expectations of the audience are being met. Hopefully, the second editions will remedy the faults of the first. Paul Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 92 15:20:06 +0100 From: Victor Reijs <Victor.Reijs at SURFnet.nl> Subject: book on Belgium and Dutch cafe Hello all of you, Sometime ago I got the question about some information on cafes (beerhouses) in Holland. There is a book which covers this area. It is: Good beer guide to Belgium and Holland, by Tim Webb, Alma books, St. Albans, GB, ISBN 1-85249-110-8. All the best, Victor Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 92 11:10 CST From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: Filling Bottles To: Homebrew Digest Fm: Jack Schmidling Like most really good ideas, they tend to survive the Momily buster. I recently evaluated and posted my rather negative comments about counter-pressure bottle filling. Although my evaluation was based on a particular commercially available filler, I basically wrote off the general process as a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. In summary, I claimed that I got acceptable results just by adjusting the pressure and tapping right into the bottle. As I only bottle to take out, it really was not a big deal to me. Although my bottled beer had adaquate carbonation, it never had much head and occassionally it was foam city trying to get a couple litre bottles filled. I returned the filler to the producer (MM) and my money was cheerfully refunded but upon re-examining the problem, I came very close to sending another check to get it back but that would have been a bit too much. So, I put together some bits and pieces and made it work and am now a believer. The major problem was making it work through my cold plate as I have no way of chilling a keg at will. One advantage to the cold plate is that I can carbonate and bottle at much higher pressures because of the small diameter of the flow in the plate. The final product is slick and simple, with quick disconnects for easy cleaning and setup. I can fill one bottle or a case with no foam and no mess. The bottle goes pffft when I pop the top and the head is as thick and creamy as a fresh tapped mug. The only question is, when will the EASYFILLER be introduced? :) js Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 92 21:34 CST From: fjdobner at ihlpb.att.com Subject: Belgian Beer To any of you interested in Belgian Beer of all types, I have a book that I bought while I was living in Holland in 1986 called "Belgisch Bier." Rather an encyclopedia of Belgian Beer than any discussion, it is written by Julien van Remoortere from 1985 with ISBN 90-6798-012-9. I bought it, with strong interests in commercial plans of importing some of the beers I tasted, into the U.S. We used to drive across the border to a small distributor and pick up cases of Westmalle Dubble and Tripple for about $0.60 a bottle. Now I am lucky if I can even find the stuff here! Basically the book is an alphabetic listing of about 348 different beers all not available in bottle, some brewed by the same breweries but quite a few nontheless. Each listing has a picture of the bottle if so packaged, the name of the brewery, color (basic dark, light etc.), volume, alcohol contents, general body characteristics, cellar recommendations, and serving suggestions (temperature that is). In addition, each listing shows the appropriate type of glass that it would be served in if one has such resources. At the end of the book are the addresses of all of the breweries that brew these beers. Although I would probably not be willing to lend the book, I would be willing to offer myself as a lookup resource to anyone interested in any particular beer or brewery. If you are interested in writing or visiting Belgium breweries, I have the addresses. One catch,the book is entirely written in Dutch. I can, however feabily translate with whatever Dutch remains after years of non-use. Frank Dobner Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1018, 11/23/92