HOMEBREW Digest #103 Fri 17 March 1989

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Finings (Andy Newman)
  specialty grains in extract brewing (Jim McCrae)
  Book Review, Geordie Products response (rogerl)
  To mhalley (Darryl Richman)
  Brewing in Plastic (Mike Fertsch)

Send submissions to homebrew%hpfcmr at hplabs.hp.com Send requests to homebrew-request%hpfcmr at hplabs.hp.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 16 Mar 89 11:38 EST From: Andy Newman <NEWMAN at Venus.YCC.Yale.Edu> Subject: Finings Greetings: Spring is just around the corner (gee...what a pleasant thought!) and I am about start brewing some lighter beers. (Dark beer when it's cold, light (colored) beer when it's warm....personal quirk of mine) The lighter beers are going to force me to come to grips with an ongoing problem I've been having trying to get my beers (almost exclusivly English-style ales) to clear. I brew most of my beer with little or no corn sugar but usually from either canned or dry extract. The beer invariably contains visible suspended yeast when I bottle it (7 to 12 days from initial pitch of yeast). Within one to two weeks, the beer will have cleared ALMOST entirely of yeast matter. It usually seems clear until I hold it up next to a bottle of commercial ale at which point it becomes apparent that it is still somewhat dull colored. It never gets any clearer than that. Worse yet, when I chill the beer, it devlops a very decided chill haze. I've experimented with a variety of clarifying agents (papain enzyme, polyclar, Irish moss, gelatin) but can't seem to get the right combination. My question is: Has anyone developed a generally sure fire way to clear extract-based beers? I know there are those who beleive that somewhat cloudy beer is acceptable, but it's really important to me get it as clear as possible (another personal quirk). I'd be curious to hear about anyone's experiences regarding this topic. -Andy Newman Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 89 10:04:19 PST From: unet!mccrae!jimmc at Sun.COM (Jim McCrae) Subject: specialty grains in extract brewing My current brewing practice is confined to reasonably sophisticated extracts. I use a lot of crystal malt, because I really like the results. I usually add the grain along with or shortly before the finishing hops, and occasionally I steep them without letting them come to a boil. My question is: does the added grain in fact go through a limited mashing process in the wort? I'm talking about careful addition, pre-boil or at the very end, not boiled to excess. If this is the case, I may talk myself into trying all-grain soon. Thanks all in advance. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 89 11:54:18 EST From: rogerl at Think.COM Subject: Book Review, Geordie Products response Re: Book Review of the The Complete Handbook of Home Brewing by: David Miller From: Darryl Richman Thank-you for the review. I've been wondering about this one and it does look like one that would have lots of good stuff in it. Again, thanks for taking the time to submit this. ======================================= Date: Wed, 15 Mar 89 09:54:13 est From: Rich Simpson <paramax!simpson at multimax.encore.com> Subject: Re: Geordie Beer & Wine Hobby Rich Simpson You beat me to it! I am a regular customer of Beer and Wine Hobby and their selection and service is the best I've had experience with. I've tried other places. One place I requested a catalog from and haven't received it yet and another place I waited something like 4 or 5 weeks before my order arrived. Beer and Wine Hobby has yet to let me down. And they have just about anything you want. And the prices are very competitive. You can call them at (617)665-8442 for a catalog. They also have a FAX number now, so you can FAX them orders and requests. Unfortunately, I left that at the house so I'll try and remember it and post it when I get there. I'll keep it short today. Enjoy, Roger Locniskar Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 89 18:46:46 PST From: Darryl Richman <darryl at ism780c.isc.com> Subject: To mhalley Sorry about the personal mail on the list, but email refused to cooperate. "From: <mhalley%MUN.BITNET at CORNELLC.ccs.cornell.edu> "Subject: Guilt/delayed info/etc. " "To the California and New England crowds: " "Can any of YOU suggest sources for Geordie "products, or must I contact the Illinois "sources listed by Al? I believe The Home Brewery, outside of Fontana, carries Geordie. "I should be returning to the States between "early June and late September. By that time "I will be OFF the emailing list. I will "be mostly in the coastal areas doing field "research. Does anyone want to send me "(by personal email) their locations that we "might meet and exchange possibly mutually "rewarding brewinfo? I live in Northridge, you're welcome to give me a call either at work (213) 453-8649 or at home (818) 893-8650. I'd be particularly interested in talking to you about mead making! Also, I'd certainly like to invite you to a meeting of the Maltose Falcons Home Brewing Society. We meet on the 1st Sunday of each month at The Home Wine and Beer Making Shop on Ventura Blvd. in Woodland Hills (818) 884-8586. --Darryl Richman Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 89 17:41 CST From: beehive!beckley at research.att.com I'm on vacation until March 27, 1989. I'll respond to your mail if needed as soon as I can. Owen Beckley Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 89 18:14 EST From: Mike Fertsch <hplabs!uiucdcs!meccad.RAY.COM!FERTSCH> Subject: Brewing in Plastic There has been some discussion recently regarding brewing in plastic water-bottle carboys. I've heard that these plastic carboys contain potentially toxic compounds (plastisizers and other nasty chemicals) which can be released into fermenting beer. Apparently the acidity and the alcohol in the wort cause the nasties to be released. The carboys are FDA approved for water only - presumably water does not cause the plastic to release solvents. The water-bottles here at work clearly state "Not to be refilled with any other liquids - NSF approved for water only". I'm not sure if the release of solvents into beer is a real effect, or if these stories are just a way the water companies try to reduce bottle losses. I'd play it safe, and not use them for fermenting beer. If I did use them for beer, I'd stick to low-alcohol batches, not the Barley Wines. On a similar topic, a collegue of mine has an interesting use for plastic carboys. He does large batches (30 gallon) of all-grain brewing, and does NOT use a wort chiller. He simply pours the boiling wort into plastic carboys and puts foil over the neck. He lets the wort cool for two days in the plastic, causing the trub to drop out. He then siphons the cooled, trub-free wort into glass carboys, pitches his yeast, and starts fermenting. He does not sanitize his plastic carboys - he counts on the boiling, sterile wort to clean everything. All his fermentation is in glass. This procedure is a bit unorthodox, but seems to work for him. He has won several regional and national awards in competitions. Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 06/29/00, by HBD2HTML version 1.2 by K.F.L.
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96