HOMEBREW Digest #1081 Fri 19 February 1993

Digest #1080 Digest #1082

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Re: Corn Sugar in Root Beer (Paul dArmond)
  Micah's magical yeast starters ("Bob Jones")
  roller diameter (SCHREMPP_MIKE/HP4200_42)
  yeast nutrition (jason)
  Re: roller mill rollers (larryba)
  Refrigerators (Phillip Seitz)
  lactic acid / BAA (Brian Bliss)
  Public service announcement (korz)
  re:  recipe request (maple) (Eric M. Mrozek)
  Irish red ale recipe idea (Rob Bradley)
  Adams Family Boston Brewery ("Richard Withers")
  Mead and Extract Brewing... (STBLEZA)
  Rolling Rocks #33 (Michael T. Lobo)
  The Taste of Dextrose (Joseph Nathan Hall)
  Semi-beginner question (Chris Kagy)
  Wild Yeasts (Nir Navot)
  Re: Kicking that horse (Desmond Mottram)
  RE: Kicking Dead Horse for Better Extraction ("John Robinson, King's College London")
  chocolate porter ("PAUL EDWARDS")
  Answers (Michael D. Galloway)
  Aeration ("Spencer W. Thomas")
  Birmingham Brewing Tour (part III) (Guy McConnell)
  Found Beer (Matt Downs)
  is it too late for the secondary? (DJH0)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1993 08:46:48 -0800 (PST) From: Paul dArmond <paulf at henson.cc.wwu.edu> Subject: Re: Corn Sugar in Root Beer Mike Gildner asks about using corn sugar in root beer. I've used corn sugar and Equal(tm) [asparatame] to make diet root beer for a friend's father who is diabetic. We used four cups (about a pound +/-) of corn sugar and a huge number of packets of Equal following the substitution directions. It worked fine and was rated as better than store-bought. Homebrewed soft drinks contain very little alcohol, since the CO2 stomps the yeast after it reaches a certain level. I've also made root beer and force carbonated it in a 5-gal soda keg. I don't know what the store-bought root beers use to increase the richness of the mouth feel. Small amounts of glycerine or Irish moss (carageenan) are possibilities, but I don't know of anyone who has published recipes for full-bodied root beer. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 93 09:05:06 PST From: "Bob Jones" <bjones at novax.llnl.gov> Subject: Micah's magical yeast starters For a very short review, Micah advocated using powdered sugar for yeast starters with some Difco nutrient. His claims of greater yeast growth got all interested. I too have used this growth technique for a while with no big obvious problems. Now for the update..... I recently decided to compare the two yeast starter techniques. The two techniques being, standard starter (DME and water) and powdered sugar starter. I split a 10 gallon batch of wort for comparison. Both starters were the same gravity (1020) and volume and the yeast was the same (1028). The two batches were fermented side by side at the same temp. I feed both starters the morning of brew day. The powdered sugar starter (PSS) seemed to generate much more yeast than the DME starter. The activity in the PSS was almost zero through the whole growth phase, compared to the DME starter that looks like a normal mini-fermentation. This is a bit troubling when you observe the two side by side. I pitched them both and waited. The next morning the DME starter batch was at high krausen, the PSS had no sign of fermentation. The PSS started several hours later. The DME batch stopped fermentation at about 3 days, and the PSS continued for several more days. The terminal gravities were measured at about 1 week. The DME batch had better attenuation than the PSS batch. The PSS batch never reached as low a terminal gravity as the DME batch after several weeks. I have now kegged them separately and will taste and continue my comparisons. My opinion at this point in time is that although there may be much more yeast growth with a PS starter the results when compared to a standard DME starter may not be what one desires. I mentioned all this to Micah and he said it could be due to the lack of Difco nutrient in the PSS. I don't think so. He thought the results were interesting, too. He agrees now that PSS may not be so good. Personally I am going back to DME starters, and don't recommend PS starters. I'll post the taste off results when their all in. Bob Jones Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 93 10:27:34 -0800 From: SCHREMPP_MIKE/HP4200_42 at pollux.svale.hp.com Subject: roller diameter I got a few requests for the diameter of the rollers in I saw in a catalog. I don't have the catalog with me, but the picture of the rollers looked like they were somewhere between 1.5" and 2". I'll have another look tonight to see if the diametre is listed. Mike Schrempp P.S. - My wife can rip a good one now and then. I suggest a big bowl of French Onion soup followed by large amounts of high quality cheese fondue. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 93 10:52:42 -0800 From: jason at beamlab.ps.uci.edu Subject: yeast nutrition Ok, say I want to make a quickish mead, but I don't have any yeast nutrients. I know that malt extracts have the required goodness. How many lbs of malt extract would I need to add to the boil (for a 5 gallon or 1 gallong batch) so that the yeast will be happy enough to ferment in a reasonable amount of time? I was thinking of maybe 1 lb honey and 1 lb extract per gallon of water. And using Champagne yeast. Maybe 1lb honey and 1/2 lb extract per gallon will be good enough? Or three lbs honey and 1 lb extract for two gallons? Comments? Jscum What happened to the mead digest--is no one posting to it. I never saved the address, so I can't post to it until it is sent to me again. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 93 13:45:53 -0500 From: polstra!larryba at uunet.UU.NET Subject: Re: roller mill rollers In HBD #1638 Mike Schrempp writes: >A few weeks ago there was a posting from someone looking for a source of >rollers for roller mills. I got a woodowrking catalog yesterday that has >rollers that might work. These rollers look like conveyor belt rollers and >are sold to be used to make outfeed supports for table saws and such. Here >are the particulars: > I have lots of these rollers. I got them from a local conveyor manufacture for $5/ea (or may it was $3.50...) anyway they would be a BAD choice for roller mills. A: they are welded thinwall pipe and do not roll true enough for any kind of milling. B: they have internal bearings, so there is no decent way to drive them. Try "Bearings Inc" - you can get conveyor belt drive ends (e.g. shaft driven, not bearing rolling) 4"dia, 10" wide for $44/each. They are custom built because you don't want a crown on your roller mill. The one I had priced out included built in hubs. That is cheaper than the standard rollers with two-piece hubs. They also had a precision roller (machined), but I didn't bother pricing it out. I figured I could true up the standard rollers if needed. The company that actually makes the rollers is Van Gorp, in Iowa. 1-800-Van-Gorp You want to specify a "Finish Bore Drum Conveyor Pulley" And you want it "straight faced" not "crowned". Disclaimer: I have yet to make my roller mill... - -- Larry Barello uunet!polstra!larryba Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 93 19:29 GMT From: Phillip Seitz <0004531571 at mcimail.com> Subject: Refrigerators Over the past year I have thrown away almost half of the beer I've brewed, which is a bummer of such magnitude that only a homebrewer can understand. This has been due to the high temperatures in our house, which typically range from 74-76 degrees F. I can say from long, sad experience that this imparts some highly undesirable flavors to beer, (particularly high-gravity brews), and I have the bottles to prove it. We have no control over this heat, which comes from the various steam pipes located throughout the floors and walls. Nor do we have a basement. In one of those saint-like gestures sometimes made by spouses of homebrewers, my wife has given me permission to look for a refrigerator I could use for brewing. (Presumably this would be used in a conjunction with a Hunter Airstat or similar device). The problem--and the reason for her saintliness--is that our house is quite small, and there is absolutely no inconspicuous place to put a fridge. We will have to live with this thing constantly in our faces. I am therefore looking for the smallest possible (presumably dorm-type) refrigerator that can hold a carboy with airlock. I'll buy new if necessary, as I am desperate. Are any of you familiar with refrigerator models that are currently available, or were available not long ago, that fit this bill? Please send responses and any other suggestions via E-mail to PSEITZ at MCIMAIL.COM Thanks! Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 93 17:20:12 CST From: bliss at csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss) Subject: lactic acid / BAA > First let me say thanks to those who replied in HBD and via email. >Experimentation with food grade acid is an interesting thought. Does >anyone see problems with adding small amounts to just a few bottles at >bottling time? Not that I'm nervous or anything, but I hate to take >chances with 5 gallons at a time. I tried adding some 88% lactic acid from GW Kent (I double checked to make sure I had the right source this time) to my dry stout a few weeks ago. It tasted great. The only side effect was that I passed out after 5 pints and woke up with every muscle in my body sore as hell... > Anyway, my friend Brent tried following Charlie's directions. He >placed a quantity (sorry, I'm unsure of amount) of pale malt in a cooler >with 5 gallons of water at 130 F. He covered the cooler and left it for >19 hours. The temperature had only dropped 20 degrees to 110 F, and >the liquid was sweet, with no sign of sourness (tartness?) and no >noticible growth. It may have stayed too hot, any other ideas about >what went wrong? The mash probably also stayed too hot. It needs to get into the 80-100 F range. Then it will take only a few hours to sour appreciably. > Also, I had the pleasure of sharing an Imperial Stoudt and >Taddy Porter (Samuel Smiths) yesterday, and they both seemed to have >a bit of sourness, perhaps more noticable in the Imperial Stoudt. >Perhaps I'm misinterpreting something in the flavor, but there does >seem to be a much more distinct sour flavor than I've experienced in >beers with much more dark grains. The Imperial stout comes in a clear bottle and 50% of the time I buy it, it is light-struck (skunky). I don't drink much of the taddy porter. - ------------------------------ As far as Beer Across America goes: >BadAssAstronomer writes: > > The Jan 93 selections were; Mass Bay Brewing Winter Warmer and > > Fisher Brewing Dark Ale. > >We tasted these yesterday at the brewclub meeting. "Dark Ale" is a >misnomer. This stuff was sort of copper colored. I'd say it's at the >dark end of the pale ale spectrum. The flavor was nothing to get >excited about, either. > >The Mass Bay Winter Warmer, on the other hand was excellent. Nicely >spiced, but not overwhelming. So many spiced beers have a sort of >sour flavor, but this does not. Our meeting was outside at a local >park, and I'd say that the Winter Warmer lived up to its name. I loved the Dark Ale. The following is palate-subjective, but it seemed to have just enough diacetyl without seeming stale to taste good (not that a beer needs diacetyl, but this one used it to its flavor advantage, as do Smith's and (possibly too much) Young's). On the subject of staleness, try comparing a bottle of 1992 Thomas Hardy's to a 1991 version... - ------------------------------ >Nick brought along an ersatz "Framboise," which he claimed had a Flanders >brown base. I'm practicing for the BJCP exam and was busily filling >out scoresheets as the beers wandered by, and was oh-so-pleased to >give his (Dock Street's) brew a 41. Really, the only problem with >it was a slight lack of body. Otherwise it was nearly perfectly balanced, >with an awesome raspberry nose, tenacious head, clear and tart fruit >flavor, and an interesting chocolate-toasted malt finish. One of >those beers even your WIFE would love. (Not my words, but we know >the stereotypes.) Dock street amber was by far my favorite beer that BAA distributed in 1992. Unfortunately, they ran out before I could order a third case (burp!) Assuming he doesn't object, I'd like to see a copy of the score sheet... (whatever happened to the idea of judging BAA beers and then discussing the results via e-mail?) bb Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 93 13:47 CST From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Public service announcement This is a public service announcement for Chicagoland beer lovers or beer lovers who will happen to be in the Chicago area this Saturday, Feb. 20th: What: BEER TASTING (11 U.S. Microbrewed ales and 3 homebrewed ales) When: Saturday, February 20th, from 2pm till 8pm Where: MAINSTREET DELI AND LIQUORS 5425 South LaGrange Road Countryside, Illinois (3 minutes north of I-55 (Stevenson) on LaGrange Road) (15 minutes south of I-290 (Eisenhower) on Mannheim Road) (LaGrange and Mannheim are the same street -- Route 45) Cost: FREE!!! The Beers: Grant's IPA Grant's Scottish Ale Pike Place Pale Ale Sierra Nevada Pale Ale Pete's Wicked Ale Bell's Amber Ale Sierra Nevada Porter Bell's Porter Grant's Imperial Stout Bell's Kalamazoo Stout Sierra Nevada Stout Homebrewed Light Ale Homebrewed English Pale Ale Homebrewed Medium-dry Stout More info: Call 708-430-HOPS or 708-354-0355 Okay, so there's nothing very extraordinary on the list, but it's free beer (the best kind) and it's an opportunity to compare a number of respectable commercial beers, side-by-side. Actually, the purpose of this tasting is to get some Beck's or Sam Adams (boo) drinkers to be more adventurous. Mainstreet normally does wine tastings on Saturdays from 2 to 8, but this is their first beer tasting. Hopefully the turnout will be good, the owners will he impressed and will do this more often, maybe next time with 11 Belgian Lambiks! Disclaimer: I'm not denying anything. See you there. Al. P.S. I brewed the three homebrews. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 93 15:43:25 PST From: mrozek at gandalf.etdesg.TRW.COM (Eric M. Mrozek) Subject: re: recipe request (maple) Jon, in answer to your request: Mark and I brewed the maple ale on Labor Day so I don't recall the details of the recipe. I'll pull out my logbook when I get home tonight and give you the actual recipe tomorrow. If I remember right, we used half a quart of dark amber maple syrup. The end result was a pretty dry beer with a thin body. I really liked it even though it didn't turn out like we intended (a maple flavored PALE ALE). The maple flavor was definitely there, but you can bend your brain trying to imagine what maple syrup tastes like without the sugur. I think the maple sugur ferments out almost completely, and even seems to increase the overall attenuation. The recipe was based on other pale ales we had done (which had real pale ale gravities and body). The next maple ale we do will have more crystal malt and maybe some carapils (going for more body). Does anyone have any recommendations? As for the Cat's Meow recipies, I have a hard copy and I can get it via FTP (read the daily HBD header for more info) but maybe someone who already has an electonic copy can volunteer to cut out the relevant recipies and E-mail them to you (southard at biology.UCSC.EDU). Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 93 20:47:02 -0500 From: bradley at adx.adelphi.edu (Rob Bradley) Subject: Irish red ale recipe idea In #1079, Al (korz at iepubj.att.com) writes: >Personally, I don't think Irish Red is a real style -- I think it's a >recently created idea -- a product of the marketing director of a large >industrial mega-brewer. Perhaps I'm wrong, but yesterday I heard a I agree, that the word `Red' sounds unauthentic and that the lager Coors makes likely bears little resemblance to anything that may have been brewed in Ireland in years gone by. That said Irish Red _ALE_ (yes ALE) seems to be an emerging American style, based on recent offerings at a variety of microbreweries. Ironically, Guy McDonnell mentioned one in the article immediately below AL's post! I posted here in January about the Chicago Brewing Company's Legacy Irish Ale. I find it a very tasty brew. It is both darker and more bitter than Killians'. It's brewed in Chicago, Al; you must have tried it. The blurb on the bottle says Irish immigrant brewers brewed in this style in 19th century Chicago. It's certainly a plausible tale. >To create something resembling Killian's, I suggest brewing a lightly- >hopped (perhaps 15-20 IBU) pale ale but add 1 ounce of Roasted Unmalted >Barley, just for color. I can't imagine too many people really want to duplicate Killian's when they can brew somthing with more character. Here's my suggestion, based on my memory of Legacy Red Ale and my experience using smallish amounts of more hightly roasted malts in pale ales: pale ale malt or pale malt extract for OG of about 1050 (for extract recipes with attenuative yeast, include 1 # crystal, for all-grain with attenuative yeast, mash at a warmer temperature) 2 ounces roasted barley (up to 3 if no crystal is used) Bittering hops for 30 IBU (CBS uses Chinook) Fuggles or Willamette to finish (CBS uses Willamette) Wyeast Irish yeast or a reliable dried yeast Cheers, Rob (bradley at adx.adelphi.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: 17 Feb 93 18:38:44 U From: "Richard Withers" <richard_withers at macmail.conductus.com> Subject: Adams Family Boston Brewery Subject: Time:6:24 PM OFFICE MEMO Adams Family Boston Brewery Date:2/17/93 Chuck Cox had a great suggestion for paying retribution to Jim Koch's (Sam Adams) bad legal habits. John Adams thought that, being born an Adams, he could not be denied use of the name. He's wrong, unless the law has changed in the14 years since I visited the Bully Hill Winery on the Finger Lakes of New York. During the tour of Bully Hill, I noticed that there were many paintings in the tasting room signed by an artist named Walter S. ____; that is, the last name was obliterated. The same obliterated name was seen on various signs around the winery giving inspiration to the workers about quality control and the like. I asked about this and was told that the owner was named Walter S. Taylor, and he was a descendant of the founder of Taylor Wines. Taylor Wines had been acquired by Coca-Cola (Koch? could it be??) (or was it Pepsico?), and they had obtained an injunction prohibiting Walter Taylor from using the Taylor name in the marketing of Bully Hill wines. So... Walter complied with the order to the absurd limit. Bully Hill also produced bumper stickers stating: "Drink Bully Hill wines -- the UN-Taylor" (remember the 7-Up Un-cola campaign?) Fight back! - Richard Withers withers at conductus.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1993 22:13 EST From: STBLEZA at grove.iup.edu Subject: Mead and Extract Brewing... Greetings all... In a recent HBD, Mark Cronenweth <CRONEN at vms.cis.pitt.edu> writes: > I've also heard rumors of a MEAD DIGEST out there somewhere. If anybody has > addresses for any online MEAD info., recipes, etc. please post me at: Would any kind soul with any mead information also please E-mail me with the info... It would be greatly appreciated. Also, I've reads some messages talking about 'extract' brewing. I'm afraid that I'm not familar with this process. I learned brewing from an organization called the SCA (Society for Creative Anacronism), a medieval re-creationist group. Hence, I've only learned techniques in use before 1550 AD, and have missed this (and other) techniques. Would some kind soul please be so generous as to give a brief explanation of this artform? Thanx in advance. +*****************************************+************************************+ |"There are no choices between good and |The Dragon of | |evil. All choices are between the | Summer Sun and | |lesser of two evils, or the greater of | Winter Moon | |two goods." |(AKA J. Hunter Heinlen) | | -The Dragon of Shadow Walking and |(Bitnet:STBLEZA at IUP) | | Night Stalking -- a good friend RIP |(Internet:STBLEZA at GROVE.IUP.EDU) | +=========================================+====================================+ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 93 09:26:43 EST From: mlobo at sentry.foxboro.com (Michael T. Lobo) Subject: Rolling Rocks #33 I saw this question posted a few weeks ago, and never saw a response - does anyone know what the 33 on the Rolling Rock label REALLY stands for? thanks, Michael T. Lobo 508 549 2487 Foxboro Co. mlobo at foxboro.com "I Love beer, beer loves me; when I drink too much, my beer speaks for me" -Monty Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 93 23:20:47 EST From: joseph at joebloe.maple-shade.nj.us (Joseph Nathan Hall) Subject: The Taste of Dextrose How many of you out there have tasted the corn dextrose that comes in 50-lb bags? Now, pure glucose is mildly sweet, and essentially tasteless otherwise. But this stuff tastes like, well, wallpaper paste. When I added 3 grams to a glass of water the taste was still distinct, though probably threshold at best in beer. Is it ALL like this? Another argument for using sucrose or some other seriously refined sugar for priming. Or, <sigh>, malt extract. ================O Fortuna, velut Luna, statu variabilis================ uunet!joebloe!joseph (609) 273-8200 day joseph%joebloe at uunet.uu.net 2102 Ryan's Run East Rt 38 & 41 Maple Shade NJ 08052 Copyright 1993 by Joseph N. Hall. Permission granted to copy and redistribute freely over USENET and by email. Commercial use prohibited. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1993 18:58:06 -0500 From: Chris.Kagy at p882.f70.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Chris Kagy) Subject: Semi-beginner question On the heels of Chuck's survey, I've got a semi-beginner question. Would adding rolled oats to a brew (a porter in this case) have any desireable effect if it were used like other adjunct grains? In other words, if I add a half pound of rolled oats to 2 gal of water, bring it to a boil and remove the oats would there be any useful result? Unfortunately, I'm not set up to mash, hence my question... Thanks for any answers! -kegster Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 93 10:27:52 +0200 From: Nir Navot <LCNAVOT at WEIZMANN.WEIZMANN.AC.IL> Subject: Wild Yeasts I have been thinking about the problem of contamination of yeast cultures by wild yeasts and would like to ask a couple of questions. 1. If you had the possibility to test for wild yeast contamination, say with a kit of some sort, would it be still worthwhile if you had no means to get rid of those nasties (other then dumping the contaminated stock)? 2. How often does the problem occur in your homebrewing enterprise? Nir Navot Molecular Biologist Novice Home Brewer Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 93 11:27:49 GMT From: des at pandora.swindon.ingr.com (Desmond Mottram) Subject: Re: Kicking that horse Forwarded message: >From des Thu Feb 18 11:09:08 1993 Subject: Re: Kicking that horse To: homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.com Date: Thu, 18 Feb 93 11:09:08 GMT X-Mailer: ELM [version (2.3 PL11)] Just a few data points on Steve Tollefsrud's post, based on experience. My background is 10 years brewing extract kits, now two years all-grain. I agree with Steve that extract brewing can keep a brewer just as occupied juggling with ingredients. Extract can beat all-grain in competitions. It's easier, quicker and requires less kit. Why do I prefer all-grain? Because all-grain consistently produces better beers for me than extract. Maybe I'm such a useless brewer I can't get a good beer out of extract. > There has been a lot of blatant arrogance expressed by some > all-grain brewers, I think it was only Jack, who admits he sometimes puts his foot in his mouth. Best thing is to count ten and forget it. Mail direct if you must. > > Malt is only one contributor to what makes a good beer, and whether > that one ingredient is extracted from the grain in your kitchen > or at a factory is less significant to the quality of the final > product than what is contributed by ... [hops, water yeast etc] Disagree totally here. Factory extract in my experience is markedly inferior to wort extracted at home or brewery. Probably due to the processing required to eliminate the water. Far from being less significant, I consider it to be the _most_ significant factor in poorer flavour compared to all-grain. Only differences in hop rates come near to affecting taste as much. This is why it is essential to use the very best quality extract if you want to beat all-grain brews in competitions. > One of the most common reasons given by all-grain advocates for > making the plunge is for greater control over what goes into > the beer. It's not my reason, and I doubt it is a common reason. Greater scope for experimenting maybe, and even that's debatable. As Steve says, all you do is throw more variables in the pot. I use all-grain, as said before, because it tastes _far_ better. That's the main reason I switched and the only reason I prefer it. Ah! that taste! > Steve Tollefsrud > Valbonne, France > > e-mail: steve_T at fleurie.compass.fr Desmond Mottram des at pandora.swindon.ingr.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 93 11:30 GMT From: "John Robinson, King's College London" <UDAA002 at OAK.CC.KCL.AC.UK> Subject: RE: Kicking Dead Horse for Better Extraction steve_T%fleurie at champigny (Steven Tollefsrud) writes: > There has been a lot of blatant arrogance expressed by some > all-grain brewers, some implying that extract brewers are > not in the same league, likening extract brewing to mindless > just-add-water cake-mixing, or, even more ridiculous, that > extract is analogous to instant coffee! This has left the > extract brewer feeling ridiculed in a forum intended to be > shared and enjoyed by all home-brewers. Whilst the "grain vs. extract" argument can be taken too far, I must admit I agree with the instant coffee analogy. After all, both instant coffee and malt extract are concentrated forms of the original substance. I brewed with extract for about 5 years before trying my first all-grain brew, and since then I haven't looked back. I could say the same about using instant and ground coffee, and also about from-concentrate vs. freshly-squeezed orange juice. In all three cases, IMHO, the concentrated product lacks the clean, "zesty" quality of the original. The basic flavour is present, and about right, but it seems somehow to be dulled. I've an idea that this difference is rather more important than any _additional_ flavours that may be introduced by the concentrating process. OK, malt [extract] is only one ingredient, and not the major one for flavouring purposes, but good fresh malt _does_ make a big contribution to the taste. I've drunk some fine beers made from extract - and some dreadful all-grain brews. But my own experience with homebrew is that it's been well worth the change, if only to hear from fellow imbibers the comment "this doesn't taste like homebrew, it's just like <some commercial real ale>". John JANET: J.Robinson at uk.ac.kcl.cc.oak Return to table of contents
Date: 18 Feb 93 07:18:00 EST From: "PAUL EDWARDS" <8260PE at indy.navy.mil> Subject: chocolate porter At the request of a few people, here's my chocolate porter recipe that Sandy was bragging on a fwew issues back (blush): 3 lbs laaglander light dry malt 3 lbs laaglander amber dry malt 1/4 lb black patent malt 1/2 lb chocolate malt 2 1/4 lbs xtal malt (i had 32 deg lovibond laying around; 40 deg would be ok) 1/2 lb cara-pils 24 tablespoons cocoa powder 1 oz Northern Brewer hops (6.8% alpha), boiled 1 hour 1 oz Willamette (alpha not recorded) at finish of boil Yeast was Whitbread dry ale yeast in a 1 qt starter Steeped cracked grains in grain bag in 5 qts 160 deg F water. Strained. Brought water volume to 6 gallons, added dry malt, boiled one hour. Chilled with immersion chiller, racked to primary, pitched yeast starter. OG 1064 FG not recorded. Bottled with 3/4 cup corn sugar to prime. The beer was great tasting from the beginning, but after a month in the bottle, the hop bitterness had diminished, allowing the chocolate bitterness to come thru. The beer was very rich and thick with a creamy tan head. My wife is a confirmed chocoholic (and porter lover), and is bugging me to brew another batch. Cheers! - -- Paul Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1993 07:56:11 -0500 From: mgx at ornl.gov (Michael D. Galloway) Subject: Answers In HBD #1080 Mark had a few questions: [snip] >Questions at this point: > 1.) Must the transfer to the secondary be done immediately, or >is there a safe window of a day or two? Obviously the transfer >doesn't have to be done at all, but ... I am trying to make a >better brew. > 2.) How important is it not to aerate the wort during the >transfer from primary to secondary. > 3.) By leaving behind the sediment, won't there be a >tremendous (significant) amount of viable yeast left behind? My >observations of the fermentation process show that the CO2 rises >from the precipitate at the bottom of the carboy, not from the >material in suspension. > Answers: 1. No, remember there are few hard and fast rules when it comes to making homebrew. My typical fermentation schedule is this: Brew and get the primary going on Saturday ... active fermentation by Sunday. Then I normally rack (transfer) to the secondary the next Saturday. Then I bottle the following Saturday. So .... 7 days in the primary and 7 days in the secondary. Racking to the secondary gets the beer off the trub and hops and dead yeast and appears to allow much more yeast to flocculate ... this means clearer beer in the bottle with much less sediment in the bottle. 2. It is important that you minimize the aeration at this stage. The dissolved O2 from aeration will lead to premature staling of your beer. All you need to do is get the secondary end of the racking tube (I use 3/8 tubing) under the surface of the beer as soon as possible. 3. Yes, there will be a lot of 'good' yeast left behind but you will also leave behind a lot of dead yeast, trub (break material) and spent hop material. Don't worry, there is plenty of yeast in suspension that will carry over into the secondary. > Now, all my primings to this point have been by adding a >measured amount of corn sugar to each bottle, then filling the >bottle, capping, conditioning ... enjoying (er, sort of). Hey, >what can I say, I followed the directions that came with the >extract, and those supplied with the microbrewery kit ... how was >I to know. Beat me, whip me, make me write bad checks! I'm trying >to reform myself. > If I understand the literature, about 3/4 cup of sugar/sugar >equivalent should be boiled in water or sterile wort, then added to >the contents of the secondary, cooled to the temperature of the >remaining 5 gal liquid (is it still called wort at this stage?), >bottled and conditioned as usual. > > It would seem that if I add anything to the remianing 5 gal >liquid in the secondary, and mix, all the precipitate will go back >into suspension and consequently be bottled. If I don't mix, what >will be bottled will not be consistantly primed. I was under the >impression that one of the advantages of doing a two-stage >fermentation was to eliminate as much particulate from the bottled >product as possible. > > Questions: > 1.) What am I missing here? Do I accept putting all the >precipitate back into suspension and into the bottles, or, > 2.) Is there a method of mixing the priming sugar/equivalent >without disturbing the junk in the secondary? > 3.) Noting that the 3/4 cup is not carved in stein, if I >substitute dry malt extract for corn sugar, do I use the same 3/4 >cup? What if I substitute liquid extract? > 4.) Lastly, if I use (for conversation sake) a 3 pound can of >a hopped liquid extract, and want to use dry malt extract (instead >of a second un-hopped can of liquid or [gasp!] sugar) to finish >off the ingredient list, what would be a reasonable amount of DME >be to use as a baseline starting point for future experimentation? > > Answers: First, once the fermentation is over, its beer, carbonated or not. 1. The normal priming method is this: boil and cool 3/4 cup corn sugar (or 1 to 1 1/4 cup dried malt extract, I never use liquid extract, too hard to measure at this level) in 1 cup water. Place this sugar solution in the bottom of a clean and sanitized 5 gal carboy (or what ever you use for a bottling container) and rack the beer from your secondary onto this sugar solution, again, with as little aeration as possible. The sugar solution will go into solution with the beer with no difficulty. Bottle and enjoy a week or two later. 2. See 1 3. See 1 4. First, I would reccomend that you use unhopped extract (it is difficult to predict the hopping rate in extracts) and hop the wort yourself. This way you get the hop rate YOU like and you get to use the variety of hops that are pleasing to YOU. The amount of DME (dried malt ecxtract?) that you would need depends on the kind of beer that you want to make. For my 'normal' ales I like an OG of around 1.045, and I usually end up using 6-7 lbs of extracts (I like the Northwestern extracts) total. GUIDANCE, PLEASE > > Mark > Mark, hope this helps some. Keep at it! Michael D. Galloway mgx at ornl.gov Living in the WasteLand Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 93 09:43:30 EST From: "Spencer W. Thomas" <Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu> Subject: Aeration I think this was in the gadgets issue of Zymurgy (maybe it was even posted here months ago), but it's a neat idea that bears repeating. It's not original to me, anyway. I'm one of those who likes to rack (siphon) from the boiling pot into my primary fermenter (maybe because it's hard to pour into the neck of a carboy from a big pot). I made a neat gadget that automagically aerates the (cooled!) wort as it's siphoning. I took some 3/8 OD copper tubing (left over from building wort chiller, sparging manifold, etc.) and cut a piece just slightly taller than the inside height of my carboy. A couple of inches down from the top (far enough down so it's inside the neck of the carboy) I drilled four 1/16" holes. I filed notches in the bottom with a triangular file (this prevents it from sitting flat on the bottom of the carboy and stopping the flow). I then insert this into the end of my racking tube, put it in the carboy, and siphon. The Bernoulli effect (knew that physics class would come in handy some day) sucks air in through the holes, and it gets well mixed with the wort. Makes a nice head of bubbles in the carboy, too. Assuming you've got some copper tubing lying around, it's free and easy. Even if you don't, a couple of feet of tubing will cost you maybe a buck? =Spencer W. Thomas | Info Tech and Networking, B1911 CFOB, 0704 "Genome Informatician" | Univ of Michigan, Ann Arbor, MI 48109 Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu | 313-764-8065, FAX 313-764-4133 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 93 8:29:54 CST From: gdmcconn at mspe5.b11.ingr.com (Guy McConnell) Subject: Birmingham Brewing Tour (part III) Last we were taken into the cold storage room filled with kegs, cases of bottled beer, and the unmistakable aroma of hops. I thought I'd died and gone to heaven. John then took us back to the front of the brewery (a long walk of perhaps 100 feet), pointed out some cups and two taps and said "help yourselves". They had the golden ale and gold lager on tap. There was no red ale on tap because they didn't have any in kegs at the time. I'll have to recant my previous opinion of the golden ale. I have had it in bottles here in Huntsville and said that it was "good but nothing special". After trying it fresh at the brewery, I'll have to say that it is quite good. It had a wonderful hop aroma and flavor, balanced by good malt taste and topped off with a creamy head. The lager was very smooth and quite good as well. John likened it more to a Dortmunder style than a pils. Being an ale man, I can't comment on that comparison. I asked if he would tell me what was in the red ale, without giving away the farm of course. He said they use 2-row, Munich, Caramel, and a "small amount" of Chocolate malts in the brew. The chocolate is there primarily to add texture and complexity rather than color as that is derived from the caramel malt. Clusters are used for bittering with Fuggles and Cascades used for flavor and aroma. When asked about brewing other types of beer he said he'd love to do a stout or a porter but they were afraid that it wouldn't sell here. They do plan to brew a Christmas Ale of some sort this year and are, as yet, uncertain as to whether it would be available only in Birmingham or in all markets. Their beer is currently available throughout Alabama in the "major" cities such as Birmingham, Huntsville, Decatur, Mobile, Montgomery, etc. He wasn't sure how much of it made it into "outlying areas" as they deal only with distributors. It is also available in some parts of Georgia and they are soon going to have it in the Florida panhandle. Red Mountain Red will be in next month's Beer Across America shipment and John was quite honored by that as they are such a new brewery. He showed us the last of 3200 cases on their way to the BAA people. They are migrating to twist-top bottles since the ones they use are not returnable anyway. This had an unexpected benefit to us as he gave us a half case of the red ale and a half case of the golden ale to split from their trial bottling runs. That fresh red ale is something else indeed! John is justifiably proud of the brewery. He says that, while it is quite small in comparison to most others, "there are no finer micros anywhere, all of the equipment is first-rate". Quite an enjoyable tour, particularly since I'd never seen the inside of a brewery before. John said that he is happy to give tours of virtually any size, preferring those in the range of 1 - 4 people. Larger tours are also welcome but are not as "personal". Just call to make sure he will be in and will have the time to show you around. The address and phone number: Birmingham Brewing Company 3118 3rd Avenue South Birmingham, AL. 35233 (205)326-6677 Enjoy and here's to the return of the brewing industry to Alabama! - -- Guy McConnell gdmcconn at mspe5.b11.ingr.com "All I need is a pint a day" Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 93 09:26:46 EST From: mattd at software.pulse.com (Matt Downs) Subject: Found Beer All Homebrewers: Recently, I found a raspberry wheat beer in a fermenter that I forgot about. Please no flames--I know "stupid"! Any way, it is about 7 months old and the air lock appears to still be intact. What I was wondering is if any one has had an experience like this and what did they do? Did you bottle it any way? Did it turn out ok? How might have using fruit changed this? Any answers would be appreciated, but flames would not! There seems to have been an extradonary number of flames for people who have valid questions to this group, we as a group should be more understanding and unless we have constructive answer, we should refrain from wasteing bandwidth in meaningless and unwanted expressions of our own inadequatcies (spelling is probably incorrect). Thanks. Matt ____________________________________________________________________________ | Matthew Downs | "To error is human, to forgive devine" | | Pulse Communications, Inc. | | | 2900 Towerview Road | I have admitted my stupidity, I promise it | | Herndon, VA 22071 | will not happen again! | ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 93 10:14:00 EST From: DJH0 at NIOSR1.EM.CDC.GOV Subject: is it too late for the secondary? Greetings- I tried a partial mash of 1/2 lb. chocolate malt (crushed with a mortar and pestle) with a lager extract, and lacking a wort chiller, poured the hot wort and the hot break (out of ignorance) through a strainer and into a 5 gal. carboy with 3 gal. of water. I let the cold water in the carboy cool the wort and pitched my yeast soon afterward. (My milling "technique" had produced some powdery grains as well as granular grain fragments) . The latest posts in the HBD have given me some concern about my crude methods. Question- Has all the harm been done? Should I bother racking to a secondary ASAP to get the wort away from the hot/cold break which formed a 1 inch layer on the bottom of my carboy? The yeast is just now producing CO2 (very slowly) after 2 days of no activity at 65-70^F. Not worrying- just learning. djh0 at niosr1.em.cdc.gov Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1081, 02/19/93