HOMEBREW Digest #1110 Thu 01 April 1993

Digest #1109 Digest #1111

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  "Samiclaus" aka strongest beer in world (THOMASR)
  immersion cooler length (THOMASR)
  a great Pale Ale (J. Fingerle)
  Re: What to Do with Grain Bill/Extract to Primary ??? (Timothy J. Dalton)
  Re: priming kegs with sugar instead of dry ice (Nick Zentena)
  Almost Free Kegging (Jack Schmidling)
  aromatic malt (donald oconnor)
  Results!  Zymurgy special issues. ("Spencer W. Thomas")
  spent grain in primary?/how about malt syrup? (Tony Babinec)
  YEAST CULTURE, one (Jack Schmidling)
  Re: Beer Balls / 5L minikegs (atl)
  Brew Clubs in Atlanta (Bret Lanius) 
  Yeast Labs yeast cultures ("Dean Roy" )
  Dry Yeast (George J Fix)
  Re: Help! ("John C. Post")
  YEAST CULTURE, two (Jack Schmidling)
  Re: dry yeast/flash ferment?/spent grains/no boil/flaked barley (korz)
  MaltMill review (Joe Rolfe)
  WYEAST contamination? (Peter Maxwell)
  what to do with used grain bill (Troy Howard)
  Belgian Malts (Michael D. Galloway)
  Plastic tubing questions (Joel Birkeland)
  MM review (James Dipalma)
  Free Beer Across America ("Bob Jones")
  hop utilization (Russ Gelinas)
  filtering yeast ("John L. Isenhour")
  Belgian Grains, kegs (Lee=A.=Menegoni)
  SN Porter (Drew Lawson)
  ICE BEER is here (Ivan Runions)
  Legality of Mailing Homebrew (Eric Wade)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 31 Mar 93 13:16:10 MET DST From: THOMASR at EZRZ1.vmsmail.ethz.ch Subject: "Samiclaus" aka strongest beer in world Hello all, I just thought I'd let you know what I found out about Samiclaus beer. For those of you who don't know it, It is a high alcohol (14%) lager with a rich malty taste an good hop balance. (I highly recommend anyone to try it once). It is brewed once a year and lagered for a year before sale. Anyway, the interesting thing is that the yeast strain used to manage this feat is under constant development. After fermenation is complete, the surviving yeasts are plated out and reused the following year. What amazed me was that the beer could be so standardized from year to year. It appears that this technique works well for bottom fermenting yeasts, but not ale yeasts. The latter are prone to yeast weakness whereby they revert to an ancestoral genetic makeup, thereby spoiling the beer. The head brewer did say however that sometimes problems present themselves: this years fermentation started perfectly normally, but then stopped - for THREE months. Just as strangely it then restarted of it's own accord, but with serious overattenuation (>30 Plato down to 3, roughly equal to 17% alcohol!). The moral of this tale is that even the biggest Swiss brewer has trouble with his yeast. Another thing the brewer mentioned was that they expose their malt to water for 7 seconds before milling to soften the shell (sorry I've forgotten the proper name). This has the effect of crushing the inside while only splitting the husk (knew I'd remember it). This makes for better lautering. We didn't get onto how you expose malt to water for 7 seconds only, But he said they did that because of the delay between milling and mashing (ca.5-10 hours). To wet and the malt would mash itself. I'll be using some of his malt in my next batch, and will try spraying the malt with one of those plant sprays. Any opinions? Has anyone done this? Rob. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 93 13:18:09 MET DST From: THOMASR at EZRZ1.vmsmail.ethz.ch Subject: immersion cooler length hello all again. Does anyone know about the minimum length of copper tubing that can be used as an immersion wort cooler? Successfully. Rob Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 93 07:33:36 EST From: fingerle at NADC.NADC.NAVY.MIL (J. Fingerle) Subject: a great Pale Ale From: casey!aspen!joem at uu6.psi.com (Joe Mulligan) >I tried a Pale Ale that Mark, one of the co-owners made, and it was >great !! And it was an extract brew (recipe will be shared if desired). Sorry to waste the bandwidth, but my mail to Joe is bouncing. Joe, could you post the recipe to the digest, or to me personnally? Thanks! - -- /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ name: Jimmy I will have a cabinet that email: fingerle at NADC.NADC.NAVY.MIL "looks like America." -Bill Clinton -or- fingerle at NADC.NAVY.MIL He does-13 of 18 are lawyers! -Jimmy \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 93 08:28:02 -0500 From: Timothy J. Dalton <dalton at mtl.mit.edu> Subject: Re: What to Do with Grain Bill/Extract to Primary ??? David C Mackensen <cygnus at unh.edu> writes: > Well, I was wondering, what to do with the spent grain bill I toss all the spent grains on to the compost pile in the back yard. That seems to me to be the best use of the grains. And adding 10 lbs or so every couple of weeks really adds up to a lot of compost. > What if I were to put the spent grain bill into the primary? > any additional sugars that might have been left over can be used for > fermentation/taste (depending upon complexity)... How are you going to sterilize the grains before tossing them in ? Boil them ? Seems like you'd be asking to extract a pile of tannins from the husks. Then have the husks in contact with the wort/green beer for a week or two ? Doesn't seem like a good idea to me. > I know that it will probably introduce extra gunk into my beer that > might induce chill hazing or whatever, but, in a dark beer? I don't > think it'll matter much... Depends on just what you like to drink. > What does the HBD think about just pouring a can of DARK malt (liquid) > into the primary before pitching (and of course, mixing it up REALLY > well)... Why not add the extract to your boil kettle when you're making the batch ? I see no reason to do this. What about sterilizing the extract ? If you want to bost the gravity, add it to the boil. Tim Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1993 01:39:33 -0500 From: Nick Zentena <zen%hophead at canrem.com> Subject: Re: priming kegs with sugar instead of dry ice From: arf at genesis.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: Almost Free Kegging >Here's another GREAT IDEA from the World's Greatest Brewer.... > This one is untested but considering the source, it's gotta work. > For the poverty stricken brewer who just knows that kegging is the way to go > but has to feed the kids before buying tank and regulator, it has occurred to > me that a very simple alternative exists. > Take an empty keg and and drop in a chunk of dry ice. Seal it up and connect > it to the keg of beer and the job is done. A few inexpensive refinements > would be an air pressure gage to monitor what is going on, a valve or two and > even a regualtor if funds allow. Something even easier is of course available. It's called sugar-) You can always prime the keg just like real ale brewers. None of this fancy dry ice stuff. Best of all ale brewers have been doing it for centuries so the results are in. Nick ***************************************************************************** I drink Beer I don't collect cute bottles! zen%hophead at canrem.com ***************************************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 93 08:40:10 -0600 From: oconnor at ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (donald oconnor) Subject: aromatic malt their are two belgian munich malts, one is called 'munich' and is about 6 lovibond and has a diastatic power of about 50. the other darker munich is called 'aromatic' and is about 21 lovibond and 29 diastatic power. both malts will convert themselves although 29 dp is really pushing it i suspect. munich malt is made in the same way as pale ale or pilsener during the initial stages of drying but the last stage is carried out at a higher temperature. the basic process for all kilned malts (pale ale, pilsner, lager, mild ale, vienna, munich) involves drying the green malt which has about 45% moisture at a low temperature until the moisture content reaches about 12-18%. regardless of the type of malt, a higher temperature is needed at this point because this last bit of moisture is more difficult to remove. it is this stage that the each of the kilned malts develops its unique features. the munich is dried at the highest temperature and thus has darker color and less catalysts (enzymes). by the way, contrary to what has been reported here, this process is basically the same the world over. i.e., european and american munich malts are made in the same way. don Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 93 09:53:54 EST From: "Spencer W. Thomas" <Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu> Subject: Results! Zymurgy special issues. Rob Bradley writes: > 91 Beer Styles: "Infuriating." "Absolutely the most valuable. > A very good reference." You know, I wonder if this reflects the dichotomy between those who try to brew true to style (for competition or otherwise), and those who just brew what they like. One member of our club hates competitions because of the focus on style -- he says "... this is a good beer, I don't care if it's too/not enough (hoppy, malty, fruity, whatever) for style X/Y/Z. I like it." =S Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 93 9:09:30 CST From: tony at spss.com (Tony Babinec) Subject: spent grain in primary?/how about malt syrup? I wouldn't put spent grain in the primary! The grain is contaminated. Some brewers exploit this by doing sour mashing, but the mashing is done in a vessel, and is followed by a boil. So, throw the spent grains on the compost heap, or make a bread out of them. I also wouldn't add malt syrup directly to the primary. Again, you want to boil the malt syrup for sanitation, and the boil does other things such as help the clarity of the resulting beer. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 93 09:21 CST From: arf at genesis.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: YEAST CULTURE, one JACK SCHMIDLING ON YEAST CULTURE Part one Objective The objective of culturing yeast is to isolate a single cell from a beer or culture that has the characteristics desired and encourage this cell to reproduce enough offspring to start a new batch of beer. This is easier said than done but with reasonable care, luck and modest investment, can be accomplished by the serious home brewer. General Program The general program is to dilute the original culture and spread it over the surface of a growth medium in a petri dish so that individual cells are far enough apart to allow them to grow into visible colonies without touching each other. A sample from one of these typical colonies is transferred to a test tube containing a growth medium. When this colony is actively growing, it is considered a pure culture and can be refrigerated for later use or started by covering with beer wort. When this starter is actively fermenting, it is poured into a larger amount of wort which, when active, is pitched into the beer. Basic Assumptions The procedure makes a number of assumptions which are correct, often enough to allow it to work well enough, to satisfy most requirements. The first assumption is that one can select the desired strain by looking at colonies on a petri dish. This is more or less true because the overwhelming majority will be the same, i.e. the dominant strain. Bacteria, molds and many wild yeasts are obvious and recognizable to the naked eye. The second assumption is that, while still very small, all round colonies are the progeny of single cells. The third assumption is that all such colonies, at least in the center are mono clonal or at least mono-cultures and otherwise sterile. To do the job right, one would have to study the original diluted culture under high magnification and do a presort at that level. This is revealing and fun. It also gives an indication of any bacterial contamination in the culture but the rub is marking individual cells and finding them later when they grow into colonies. This is done using a calibrated X-Y stage on the microscope and making careful notes. Fortunately, however, I do not believe that it is really necessary for the home brewer, although a must for the lab selling selected strains. Details There are many growth media available for the purpose and no doubt someone can recommend a source or recipe for the ideal but for my experiments, I mixed two packets (16 gr) of Knox gelatin with one cup of 1.020 wort. After heating and dissolving, this is poured into petri dishes and test tubes and sterilized in a pressure cooker for 15 min at 15 lb. It should be noted that a pressure cooker is the preferred method of sterilization but for our purposes, one could probably get by with steaming in any pot with a lid and a half inch of water. Set the dishes or slants in or on a cup or some other support to keep them out of the water. The petri dishes are turned upside down after solidifying and cultured this way to prevent water of condensation from falling on the medium. The test tubes are cooled on a slant to allow the water to settle on the bottom when vertical. They are also stuffed with cotton before going into the pc. You can also use tubes with plastic screwcaps and avoid the cotton. It should be noted that gelatin melts around 75 F so its use in summer is precarious. The better alternative to gelatin is agar agar. This is available at oriental food stores in stick form. Half a stick (about 4 inches) in a cup of wort will get you through the hottest weather. cont... Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 93 07:25:15 -0800 From: atl at kpc.com Subject: Re: Beer Balls / 5L minikegs > about 5 liter kegging. You know, those 5 l Dink and other German draft cans Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 93 10:25:31 -0500 From: bret.lanius at ehbbs.com (Bret Lanius) Subject: Brew Clubs in Atlanta VA. From: XLPSJGN%LUCCPUA.BITNET at UICVM.UIC.EDU I was unable to get email to you at this adress VA. VA. My brother in Atlanta is interested in homebrewing/beer clubs in the VA. Atlanta area. He's just started brewing and is looking for a network VA. to get involved in for help, advise and meeting fellow brewers. How- VA. ever, I think because of the laws against brewing beer at home, these VA. societies might be hard to find? VA. VA. Could anyone who knows about a club or network in the Atlanta area VA. please E-mail me directly (or over this forum) and I'll pass the VA. info onto my brother. VA. VA. Cheers, VA. John The Covert Hops Society Ken Ward P.O. Box 15256 Atlanta, GA 30333 - --- . JABBER v1.2 . Bret Lanius INTERNET: bret.lanius at ehbbs.com - ---- +---------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | Ed Hopper's BBS - ehbbs.com - Berkeley Lake (Atlanta), Georgia | |USR/HST:404-446-9462 V.32bis:404-446-9465-Home of uuPCB Usenet for PC Board| +---------------------------------------------------------------------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: 31 Mar 93 11:36:29 EST From: "Dean Roy" <DEAN at alpha.uwindsor.ca> Subject: Yeast Labs yeast cultures I recently puchased some liquid yeast cultures from my local homebrew supplier. Unfortunately he no longer has Wyeast cultures but he said the Yeast Labs cultures he had in stock (distributed by G.W. Kent) were just as good. I have the following questions about these cultures: (1) Are these the same yeasts as Wyeast? I purchased a California Lager and an American Ale (is this 1056)? (2) The fermentation temperature suggested for both of the above is in the 70 degree range. Is this correct for the lager yeast? (3) The cultures come in clear plastic tubes. No inner pouch or anything similiar to burst. Do I simply dump the contents of the tube into a starter? -------------------------------------------------------------------- | Dean Roy | Email: DEAN at UWINDSOR.CA | | Systems Programmer | Voice: (519)253-4232 Ext 2763 | | University of Windsor | Fax : (519)973-7083 | -------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 93 09:44:54 -0600 From: gjfix at utamat.uta.edu (George J Fix) Subject: Dry Yeast I have personally reviewed the Whitbread production procedures for dry yeast. Not only are they using a new facility, but their procedures are new with a strong accent on downstream quality control, the point of the process that caused problems in the past. For the record, our analysis of this yeast did include Rodney Morris' incremental actidione method for detecting wild yeast. This showed less than 1 nonculture cell per 10 million viable yeast cells. Crosby and Baker is currently distributing this yeast to both commercial customers and home brew shops. Crosby and Baker is also distributing the Mauri yeast from Australia. I have tested this yeast as well, and it too meet specs. C+B has my report, which contains the detailed plate counts. The Red Star products from Universal Foods have not as yet been tested. I have had several discussions with Dr. Foy, the QC biologist at Universal. They have not made beer yeast for over a year, and will be introducing entirely new production procedures for their new yeast. Whether this leads to improved product quality remains to be seen. But it very definitely is not business as usual. I hope this and my previous post are not seen as an endorsement of dry yeast. Each of these strains have their own personality, which may or may not be to a particular brewer's taste. For example, the Mauri strain is a "pure" version of a well known Australian yeast. The test brews we did with this yeast indicated a clean but relatively bland finish, whereas the "impure" version was awash in flavors of all sort. This yeast IMHO is a good strain for beginners who are just starting to develop their techniques. What is discernibly true is that the dry yeast of 1993 and in the future are and will be produced with much more rigorous QC standards than at any point in the past. As I noted in my first post, Wyeast gets credit for this as they were the one who set the proper standards. George Fix Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1993 09:19:10 -0800 From: "John C. Post" <jpost@ llnl.gov> Subject: Re: Help! >Date: 30 Mar 1993 13:05:29 -0600 (CST) >From: SWEENERB at msuvx2.memst.edu >Subject: Help! >Help! >Is there anything I can do, however, to speed up the >carbonation process and/or help the yeast to drop out of suspension in the >meantime to remove the green beer taste? Is there a fining agent which might >help? Any suggestions are welcome--tried and true or completely experimental- >-at this point I'll try anything. Thanks in advance. >Bob Nope...and anybody who tells you otherwise is full of it. Some things just can't be rushed...You could jack it around and bottle early, but it wouldn't be the great beer you started out making... john jpost@ llnl.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 93 11:41 CST From: arf at genesis.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: YEAST CULTURE, two JACK SCHMIDLING ON YEAST CULTURE Part two Isolating Cells The first step is to inoculate the petri dish with as diluted a mixture as possible. The books are full of procedures for doing this but I find the simplest is just as good. Take a copper wire or thin glass rod and heat several inches in a flame to sterilize. Dip this, when cool, into a working beer or yeast culture. If starting with dry yeast, dissolve one granule of yeast in a test tube with about one inch of sterile water. Gently drag the inoculated wire across the gelatin in the petri dish, trying not to break the surface. Next, draw the wire across this line at several points, to further dilute the sample. Turn the dish over onto the cover and "incubate" at room temp for several days. Do this on several dishes just for insurance and as controls. Pure Culture The next step is to visually inspect the surface of the petri dish under low magnification (hand lens or naked eye will do) to pick out a "typical" colony that appears to have come from a single cell. All colonies should be rejected that are any shape other than perfectly round and differ in any way from the majority. Flame your wire again and after cooling, remove a small sample from the center of the selected colony and poke this into the surface of the medium in a "slant" test tube. You can do this to several slants, with the same sample, to assure all slants are the same or flame the wire and take a new sample from a different colony. You can make as many slants as you will need for several months and throw away the petri culture. You now "incubate" the slants until 25% or more of the surface is covered with the pure colony and then refrigerate them till needed. Starting When needed for use, cover the slant with sterile wort and pitch when ready, i.e fermenting. For best results, this starter should be used to pitch about a pint of wort, a day or so before brew day. This process can be used on anything from a packet of Red Star to a bottle of your favorite beer and will produce a pure culture. There is no guarantee however, that the strain will remain the same for ever because of natural mutation. As it is my experience that the most common and objectionable contaminants of dry yeast are bacteria and mold, this process will guarantee at least, to eliminate these most serious problems. SIMPLIFIED PROCEDURE An even simpler process can be used if one is not interested in isolating single cells and has confidence that the starting culture is pure. This procedure skips the petri dish part and assumes one is starting with a packet of liquid yeast or a culture slant obtained from a reliable source. After preparing the agar/wort medium and a convenient number of slant culture tubes, they are simply inoculated directly from the culture. Using the sterile procedure outlined above, just dip into the packet of liquid yeast with the transfer wire and poke this into the agar in the sterile slants. One dip is enough to inoculate several tubes. You can use the rest of the yeast in the packet to start the next batch but the slants can be saved for a year or more. If you use a purchased culture slant, the same procedure applies. Poke the wire into the yeast culture and then poke this into the slants. Save the original for future iterations. If you started with a liquid yeast packet, save the last slant to start a new group. Using this simple approach, one can go several years without spending a penny on yeast and possibly forever once you get into the "yeast swapping" mode. I have yet to buy any yeast since I stopped using dry. While this is not necessarily music to the ears of yeast suppliers, it is good news to the homebrewer. That $'s for yeast in the bill of materials becomes zero to the yeast culturer. Yeast suppliers (like extract suppliers) will no doubt always be with us and in the case of yeast, we need them to maintain pure strains when ours go south. But to keep buying the stuff for routine use is strictly for the affluent and laz.... naw, I won't do that again. js Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 93 12:18 CST From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Re: dry yeast/flash ferment?/spent grains/no boil/flaked barley Don writes: >There have been a number of digest posts in the past few weeks which >suggest the quality of dry beer yeasts is improving. The latest post on >this was in last Thursday's digest by George Fix. I'd be delighted if these >reports did indeed portend a new beginning for dry yeast, but I remain >very skeptical. If I may be allowed to play the devil's advocate, let me >first explain why I think the recent reports offer limited encouragement at >best and why I doubt the existing processors of dry yeast are likely to >change their ways in the foreseeable future. Don, goes on to explain why he is still skeptical of dry yeasts. With all due respect, Don, how much of your data is concrete and how much is conjecture? I'm willing to accept your arguments, but have you visited the plants that make these yeasts? Have you talked to the manufacturers? I don't mean to flame you -- I think you make some good points, but I just want to know if this is based on concrete evidence. >and Dr. Fix's culture methods would not detect it. There are methods >which will detect most wild yeasts but these methods are quite >sophisticated and would require equipment and expertise found in some >microbiology or biochemical laboratories with fluorescence microscopy >capabilities. Are you familiar with all the equipment George has at his disposal? I am aware of the fact that he has some pretty heavy-duty equipment available, and would not doubt that there's quite a bit more that I don't know about. ************************** Mark wrote about a kit beer made with dry yeast rehydrated in 70F wort with an original gravity of 1041, which stopped fermenting after about two days. I would have quoted his text, but MARK FAILED TO USE CARRIAGE RETURNS, WHICH MADE A MESS ON MY TERMINAL WHEN I TRIED TO INSERT A ">" AT THE BEGINNING OF EACH LINE. I recommend that you not use wort to rehydrate dry yeast -- you are not only stressing the yeast, but tempting the remaining live ones to produce off flavors. Secondly, if you fermented at around 70 to 72F, a 1041 wort could easily have fermented out in two days. It would have helped to know the temperature of the surroundings and if there were any sudden temperature changes that could have knocked the yeast out. If there were no sudden temperature changes and you fermented above 68F, I'd suspect that it's done. If your SG turns out to be below 1010, I'd say it femented out. Give it a few more days and then bottle. If the SG is well above 1010, then I'd say something happened to the yeast. You could try making up a starter of fresh yeast and pitching it after it finishes fermenting out (to ensure that you are not adding addional oxygen to your main wort). ************************ Chris writes: >Well, I was wondering, what to do with the spent grain bill... so I >was thinking... > >What if I were to put the spent grain bill into the primary? >any additional sugars that might have been left over can be used for >fermentation/taste (depending upon complexity)... I have no hard data on this, but my gut feeling is that I would recommend against it. Actually, it would make something like Ninkasi --if memory serves correctly, the "beer" of ancient Babylonia did not have the grains removed -- talk about liquid bread! I'm raising squirrels the size of pit bulls with my spent grains. I just dump them in the yard -- I think the deer like the hops and the squirrels like the grains. >What does the HBD think about just pouring a can of DARK malt (liquid) >into the primary before pitching (and of course, mixing it up REALLY >well)... It's sanitary, and I assume you are adding it to water, so it will, er... work..., I guess, but you still want to sanitize the water and would *like* to boil the wort to get the proteins to coagulate, but technically it would make beer. *********************** Chris (another one) writes: >Thank you for the replys about the question of using flaked >barley as a specialty grain. It appears that using flaked >barley adds a creamy mouth feel and improves the head. Some >people use flaked barley with all beer styles. Recommendations >on the amount ranged from 5 ozs to 1/2lb for a 5 gallon batch. You can get away with not mashing it (using it as a specialty grain) in dark beers, but it will make light-colored beers cloudy if you don't mash it. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 93 13:29:59 EST From: Joe Rolfe <jdr at wang.com> Subject: MaltMill review hi all, after reading in the last two issues, i remember i owe a review on the maltmill i bought - yes off jack - last fall. i have the adjustable one and after hearing a war story from a fellow brewer (commercial - both of us) i am glad i do. mine has worked very well in crushes of malted wheat, crystal and 2 row pale (both MF and canada malting). thruput is so far fair ( but them i ask a lot). i can easily got thru 10lbs in a few minutes (with var speed drill). i have yet to grind a full 100lbs+/- in it tho i do not forsee a problem, provided the spinning of the rollers is not to slow nor to fast. (anyone got any hints at the correct rpm for the rollers - max thruput and least hassels) on the other hand - this fellow brewer - had a hell of a time. again this was with the non-adjustable roller model. the bill called for pale malt (MF) crystal malt (MF) and choc malt (MF). i was not there when the problems came up - but the crystal ended up to fine, the pale did not feed properly and the guy had to rush out to get a corona. now mind you this is a motorized (probably too fast) with hoppers above and below. the total grain bill was on order of around 100lbs (+/- 20 - i don't ask what he puts in his beers ). the first 20lbs or so of the pale did run ok. he is going ot order the adjustment kit and upgrade. anyway from my experience and his, if you get one get the adjustable one. standard discalimer from a commercial user. - -- joe rolfe jdr at wang.com 508-967-5760 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1993 11:09:22 -0800 (PST) From: Peter Maxwell <peterm at aoraki.dtc.hp.com> Subject: WYEAST contamination? There has been a thread recently about contamination of dry yeasts, but what about liquid? From what I can make out, one form of contamination, apparently somewhat prevalent in the old Whitbread, is by a wild yeast which can ferment dextrine, giving excessively dry and bland beer. This is just what happened to me with a batch of 1056! My first brew went from 1.036 down to 1.006, as measured with a hydrometer. I've never had such a low reading, and the beer sure is bland. I can hardly taste anything in it. The second batch used the slurry from the secondary of the above, and went from 1.044 down to 1.008. I would normally expect 1.012 minimum for this type of beer. This, too, is somewhat bland. Both the above had some crystal malt, although I forget how much without my notes. My latest use of another pack of 1056 went from 1.044 to 1.013, much more expected. Has anyone else had WYEAST problems like this? Peter Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 93 11:18:43 PST From: troy at scubed.scubed.com (Troy Howard) Subject: what to do with used grain bill David C Mackensen <cygnus at unh.edu> asked: >Well, I was wondering, what to do with the spent grain bill... so I >was thinking... > >What if I were to put the spent grain bill into the primary? >any additional sugars that might have been left over can be used for >fermentation/taste (depending upon complexity)... > >I know that it will probably introduce extra gunk into my beer that >might induce chill hazing or whatever, but, in a dark beer? I don't >think it'll matter much... > I would strongly advise against this course of action. From what I have read grain is highly contaminated with bacteria (lactobacillus, I think). If you put your spent grain directly in your primary, you are risking a serious infection. If you boil the grain to sanitize it, you will end up extracting tanins from the husks. This would probably (sheer guess, here) be detectable even in a dark beer. >I just hate to see all that grain to down the drain :) > >any other ideas? I've heard about making bread out of it, but I don't >think that might be feasble for me.. :( but who knows :) Here's a few: I have heard of some people using it to suplement their pet's food. Also, do you have a compost heap? Maybe you could dry it and make your own granola? I've never done it, but it sounds easier than bread. Hey, maybe you could make bread with it, then add the bread to your next batch in the mash. For that good ol' summerian taste! Just a thought. > >One problem that I can foresee is the soaking up of my beer into the >grain???? > >comments please... Soaking up your beer is probably the least of your worries. > >thanks, > -chris Just my $0.02, but your welcome. Troy Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1993 14:44:08 -0500 From: Michael D. Galloway <mgx at ornl.gov> Subject: Belgian Malts Is there a reliable mail-order source of Belgian malts in the southeast or east? Please email direct. Michael D. Galloway mgx at ornl.gov Living in the WasteLand Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 93 13:13:50 MST From: birkelan at adtaz.sps.mot.com (Joel Birkeland) Subject: Plastic tubing questions I have a difficult time cleaning the plastic tubing I use for siphoning and blow-off. For this reason, I end up going through a lot of tubing, and probably wasting a lot of money. This causes me to ask the following questions: Grainger stocks vinyl and polyethylene tubing which "conforms to FDA standards", although they state that the vinyl product exhibits a "slight" taste and odor. They sell this stuff pretty cheaply. Can I use this for siphoning? (For some reason, Home Depot does not carry the I.D. tube that fits my bottle filler.) In grad school, we used plastic tube called Tygon, which I believe was autoclavable. Can this be used for beer? Finally, does anyone know where I can get 1" ID blow-off tube? Thanks for all of your help. Joel Birkeland Motorola SPS birkelan at cs1.sps.mot.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 93 15:19:43 EST From: dipalma at banshee.sw.stratus.com (James Dipalma) Subject: MM review Hi All, I recently purchased a Maltmill with the roller adjustment, and would like to share my experiences with it. I would like to preface my remarks by stating that I used a corona for about two years before getting a Maltmill. It arrived in good shape, and required just a few minutes to assemble. There are two bolts that fasten the roller assembly to the baseboard, and one other to fasten the crank. I set it up, ground a pound of malt, and used an old toothbrush to clean up the rollers. Upon reading the enclosed instructions, it only took a few minutes to adjust it properly for two row. I dropped a few grains onto the rollers, none of it fell through. I ground a handful of malt on this setting, the grain chunks were a little large, so I tweaked the adjustment just a bit tighter. I ran a pound through at that setting, each kernel was broken into several small pieces and the husks were virtually intact. There were a few grains that *looked* whole, but when I picked them up it turned out that they were crushed so gently that they just didn't seperate from the husks. I've never gotten that good a crush out of a corona, despite doing all the modifications to it that have been posted in HBD. The throughput of the MM is very impressive, in fact, if I had a complaint with the mill, it would be that it grinds a pound so fast that I had to keep stopping to refill the hopper. I solved this by notching the bottom of a 4 gallon food grade bucket so that it fit snugly inside the hopper. The bucket holds 8 pounds of grain easily, I only needed to stop to refill once, so I was able to grind 10 pounds of grain for a batch in under 10 minutes. This used to take 30-40 minutes with the corona. The mill itself is designed to sit on a bucket, so that the output from the mill is easily collected. I had seen a demonstration of an early version of the MM that required a shallow pan to catch the crushed grain, which had to be emptied every couple of pounds. The newer version is a distinct improvement, the 5 gallon food grade bucket I placed under the mill easily contained all the grist. My extraction did not go up, but I really didn't expect it to. I get 30 pts/lb/gal with infusion and 33 with decoction mashing. The biggest difference in brewing with grain crushed with the MM was how incredibly fast the runoff from my lauter tun cleared. With the corona, by the time I adjusted it to produce small enough chunks of grain to get decent extraction, the husks were pretty well trashed and there was a lot of flour. This meant I used to have to recirculate 1-2 gallons of runoff before it cleared, with all of the associated problems of heat loss and HSA. With the MM, there was very little flour and the husks were virtually intact, providing good filtration, so the runoff cleared after 1 quart! I was quite literally *stunned* how fast it cleared. Scarcely believing my eyes, I recirculated a second quart, which ran crystal clear. I don't think this was really necessary, I could easily have gotten away with recirculating just the one quart. In all fairness, the corona was *intended* to produce flour for making tortillas. If one goes to the trouble of removing the snap ring, filing the end of the impeller shaft flat, replacing the cotter pin that retains the movable plate to minimize wobble, and gaps the plates correctly, the corona will do an adequate job at something it was never designed to do, i.e., crush malt. I took each of these steps, and they all helped produce a better crush, but IMHO, for quality of crush, throughput, and ease of collection of the grist, the Maltmill is far superior. I, for one, am a very satisfied customer. Congratulations on a fine product, Jack. Cheers, Jim Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 93 12:39:12 PST From: "Bob Jones" <bjones at novax.llnl.gov> Subject: Free Beer Across America It occurred to me the other day that homebrew clubs across America could exchange beers for free (minus the shipping charges)! The beers wouldn't have to be homebrew, they could be local brewed at popular micros. What do you think? All we need are the rules, details and start shipping. Email certainly makes this concept more realistic. It would be especially fun to exchange beers that won at local or national competitions. Bob Jones Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1993 16:09:25 -0500 (EST) From: R_GELINAS at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas) Subject: hop utilization The discussion of a 20% loss in hops utilization in going from pellets to whole hops made me realize why one of my recent beers was surprisingly over-bitter. First let me say that I always use whole hops. Usually I pull some of them open to expose more of the lupulin glands, but a lot of the cones are still intact even after the boil. What was unique about this "Bitter Steam" was that, rather than manually pull the hops apart, I put them into a coffee grinder and gave it a few spins. They chopped up very nicely. I now believe that this chopping exposed virtually *all* of the lupulin glands, resulting in a greatly increased utilization. In fact, what are pellets if not chopped up whole hops? Russ G. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1993 15:29:38 CST From: "John L. Isenhour" <isenhour at lambic.fnal.gov> Subject: filtering yeast I was at my friendly neighborhood environmental ecologist recently getting tested for reaction to pollution (nothin like that megacity air) and they happened to test me for yeasts and I redlined the test. The explanation was that things you are exposed to in high doses:-) over long periods of time (been brewin about 14 years now) you're likely to start reacting to it. Sooo... I'm looking for a inexpensive, reusable filter that will filter yeasts out. I'd like to find something that will filter yeasts size particles only and leave those tastey proteins etc., alone. I mostly keg (5/15 gal) and have CO2 and probably whatever it takes besides the filter to get set up. Thanks! john - John Isenhour renaissance scientist and AHA/HWBTA certified Beer Judge home: john at hopduvel.UUCP (hopduvel!john at linac.fnal.gov) work: isenhour at lambic.fnal.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 93 16:55:38 EST From: Lee=A.=Menegoni at nectech.com Subject: Belgian Grains, kegs If any one out there has information on Belgian Malts, descriptions or grain analysis would they please post it or send me the info at lmenegon at necis.ma.nec.com For those of you in the Lowell Mass. area Harringtons Liquors, Chelmsford, sells 5 gallon soda kegs with the gas in and liquid out connections for $25.95. They are used but not reconditioned, O rings are cheap. They also have the best selection of imported and domestic micro brewed beers outside of 128. I don't work there I'm just a customer. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 93 14:31:21 PST From: lawson at acuson.com (Drew Lawson) Subject: SN Porter I just got around to catching up on my Digest reading and noticed a posting of a Sierra Nevada Porter clone. This reminded me of a style question I had about porter. My question is, how true to style is SN Porter? I had a sis pack a few weeks ago and found it to be more bitter/hoppy than I thought a porter was supposed to be, but I haven't had many porters. Don't get me wrong, it's a good brew, just different than I expected. Drew Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 93 16:18:35 MDT From: Ivan Runions <626013 at UCDASVM1.ADMIN.UCALGARY.CA> Subject: ICE BEER is here FROM: Ivan Runions . Labatt's (mega) brewery in Canada took out a full page ad in a national newpaper on March 26 anouncing it's new "ice brewed" beer. The following is quoted from the ad "Ice Brewing (TM) first chills the beer until ice crystals appear. At this point an exclusive process gnetly removes the ice crystals, which leads to a brilliant amber liquid uniquely rich in flavor, ..." blah blah blah " The result, at 5.6% alcohol by volume, is Ice Beer (TM)." Thoughts? Comments? This appears to me a marketing gimmick, except for the list of patents on the process (Canada, US, Germany and Europe). Ivan Runions Admin. Systems, Univ of Calgary phone: 403-220-4435 Calgary, Alberta fax: 403-282-9361 Canada email: irunions at ucdasvm1.admin.ucalgary.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1993 15:31:19 -0800 (PST) From: Eric Wade <ericwade at CLASS.ORG> Subject: Legality of Mailing Homebrew While trying to mail me some homebrew (and a bottle of Hook Norton Ale from jolly ol' England) from Seattle, my brother was told by the Post Office that it is flat out illegal to mail alcohol. "What about all these folks mailing to competitions?" he asked, to which the postal employeed replied, "If you don't tell me what's in the package . . ." Well, what with the AHA yearly competition entry deadline approaching, I thought this might be an appropriate post. And, while I am a law librarian (and brewer) I do not give legal advice (standard disclaimer, etc.). Section 124.42 of the U.S. Postal Service Domestic Mail Manual prohibits the mailing of _taxable_ alcoholic beverages. However, homebrew, up to certain quantities is not taxable. Authority 27 CFR sections 25.195 - 25.207, 26 USC 5053. Enjoy. Eric Wade <ericwade at class.org> (Internet) Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1110, 04/01/93