HOMEBREW Digest #1237 Thu 30 September 1993

Digest #1236 Digest #1238

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Problems with carbonation (Owen Plowman)
  Re: Beer Recipe Formulator ("Andy Phillips, Long Ashton, Bristol, UK")
  Buffalo?... (GANDE)
  re: Troubleshoot my dry hopping! (darrylri)
  Zymurgy price error [from Karen Barela] (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  article on Maine brew pubs and micros (LeRoy S. Strohl)
  Brewing Partner (RDG3)
  Darn, I had the chance and I missed it -- not. (LeRoy S. Strohl)
  Idophor Stains (Tony Willoughby)
  RE: decoction (not again!) (James Dipalma)
  Pumpkin reciplease (Thomas_Joe)
  Trub racking, Bottles on side, decoction (Ulick Stafford)
  Hidebound Brewers, HSA (Jack Schmidling)
  Decoction / low extraction (Lee=A.=Menegoni)
  cinnamon in apple cider (sean v. taylor)
  Re: Recipe request (Jim Busch)
  Maize/Cornstarch/CherryJuice ("CCA::ELS_DEM")
  New Cleaner/Sanitizer - an inquiry (Michael Ligas)
  wort chiller (Chris Amley - 3M Telecommunications - 612-736-9461)
  Xmas ale (Alan B. Carlson)
  Subscription request (Stephen Gardner)
  Mash temperatures for Scotch Ale (Benjamin Woodliff)
  oatmeal stout extract / different tastes from different mugs (Jim Graham)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1993 12:40:02 -0400 (EDT) From: Owen Plowman <owen at ca.oracle.com> Subject: Problems with carbonation Hello! We are using this account as guests to ask the following questions: 1. We are a couple of new brewers in Toronto and we are experiencing some difficulties in getting our beer to carbonate properly. So far we have made three batches of beer (all from kits available at the local "Brew Your Own" store) and have had mixed success. Our first batch was a simple "kit" lager which went four days in primary and thirteen days in secondary. While not totally flat this beer did not carbonate fully and was somewhat disappointing. The store suggested that we should siphon off our beer before adding the carbonation sugar to ensure that all the sugar would be fully mixed and not fall into the botom sludge that never gets into the bottles. Batch number two was the same "kit" lager, with 6 1/2 lbs of fresh raspberries added to create a fruity summer beer. The beer fermented four days in primary and seventeen days in secondary (with very vigorous fermentation going on all the time). The result was great with lots of carbonation and a super taste. Batch number three was an English Bitter brewed using a bitter "kit" with a mixture of grains and hops added to improve the taste. Primary lasted four days and secondary fifteen. Carbonation this time was poor with the beer being nearly flat. In all three cases we used malt sugar (between 2/3 and 1 cup) for eighteen litres of beer. The actual taste of all our beers is quite good and we have had no problems with contamination at all. We suspect that our problem is related to the life cycle of the yeast and that for some reason there is not enough left at bottling time to create carbonation. Can some of you more experienced brewers offer any ideas on what we are doing wrong and how to improve for future batches? Should we be bottling sooner and how can we judge when the time is right? It's probably best if you reply directly to the mail id we are using ("owen at ca.oracle.com") for this question, and then we will summarize to the list. 2. Is there anybody on the list who is familiar with the Widmer Brewing Co. in Portland Oregon? They produce a Hefeweizen and we would very much appreciate any recipes that closely mimic this beer if somebody has one. 3. We read Bill Flowers note on Hoptech's fruit extracts and are interested in finding out more about these. Where is Hoptech located and do you know if these same extracts are available in Toronto? Thanks very much Doug and Brian Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 93 13:13 BST From: "Andy Phillips, Long Ashton, Bristol, UK" <phillipsa at afrc.ac.uk> Subject: Re: Beer Recipe Formulator Once again I have to apologize for the following messages, as my mailer won't accept either correspondent's address. To: Chris Campanelli: Glad to hear Version 2 of the Beer Recipe Formulator is on the way. If you can't include automatic US/metric conversion, how about having a help screen with conversion tables/formulae for the arithmetically challenged? To: Tom Nelson: Your "Brewer's Workshop" program sounds interesting. Could you send me some details? My snailmail address is: Andy Phillips, Velley Cottage, 137 High St, Pensford, Bristol, BS18 4BH, U.K. Or FAX to +44-275-394281 Thanks Andy Return to table of contents
Date: 29 Sep 93 03:32:03 GMT From: GANDE at slims.attmail.com Subject: Buffalo?... Apologies for the deplorable use of BW, can anyone tell me of a source of grain in Buffalo, N.Y.? I can get Canada Malting 2 row really cheap here in Toronto, but imported malts are unheard of. Buffalo is just 'cross the border and worth the drive. EMAIL response to: gande at slims.attmail.com TIA....Glenn Anderson Return to table of contents
Date: Wed Sep 29 06:43:28 1993 From: darrylri at microsoft.com Subject: re: Troubleshoot my dry hopping! caa at com2serv.c2s.mn.org (Charles Anderson) writes > > From: Kelly Jones <k-jones at ee.utah.edu> > > Questions: > > Is this simply a temporary bitterness that will soon mellow? Or can > > dry hopping really add noticeable bitterness? Did I over dryhop? > > How many IBU's can/should dry hops introduce? > > I did the same thing with my first full mash Pale Ale. I added 1oz of ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > Willamette to the fermenter, it came out with a great hop aroma, but also > an unbelievable bitterness. BTW I just threw the hops in on top of the > fermenting wort. It took a long time for my bitterness to go away, and > by that time I didn't think the beer was very good. (couldn't tell if > wasn't very good to start with too much bitterness) This struck a chord in me. I'd just like to point out that your hop utilization is going to change dramatically when you go from a partion boil extract brewing process to a full boil mashing process. I discovered when I changed over that I needed about half as much hops as I had been using in extract beers. The reason is that if you boil 6 pounds of extract in a gallon and a half of water, the gravity of that wort is well over 1.100, and probably somewhere near 1.125. High gravity worts don't take up much iso alpha acids from the hops. When you switch to all grain, and therefore full wort boils, your gravity will be more like 1.050, and you'll get a lot more bitterness out of your hops. --Darryl Richman Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 93 09:50:14 EDT From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: Zymurgy price error [from Karen Barela] [I'm probably violating some Compu$erve conditions of use policy, but since I don't have a C$ account, I don't care.] I have been waiting for this notice to show up in the HBD, but it hasn't, so here it is. (No, I'm not connected with YeastLab. Just an interested bystander.) =S #: 242768 S14/General Homebrewing 17-Sep-93 10:11:22 Sb: #Zymurgy price error Fm: Karen Barela/AHA VP 75250,1350 To all AHA members and zymurgy readers: zymurgy magazine inadvertently printed incorrect prices for G.W. Kent's Yeast Lab Liquid Yeast Cultures in the New Products section of our 1993 Fall issue. Please accept our apologies for any confusion this may have caused. G.W. Kent does not sell directly to homebrewers, which is incorrectly implied in the information we published. For information on this product, contact your retailer directly. If you have any questions about this error, contact me at (303) 447-0816. Sincerely, Karen Barela President, American Homebrewers Association Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 93 10:15:02 EDT From: LeRoy S. Strohl <lstrohl at s850.mwc.edu> Subject: article on Maine brew pubs and micros In the October 1993 issue of -Down East- magazine appears an article entitled The Ultimate Pub Crawl by Al Diamon. According to the article **Maine currently ranks fourth in the nation in number of breweries per, one for every 136,000 of us.** If his notes on the tastings are accurate, there are some good brews to look forward to if one were to visit Maine. The article finishes with a Where to Find Maine's Breweries list: Acadia Brewing, 30 Rodick St., Bar Harbor, 288-9513 Andrews Brewing, Box 4975, Lincolnville, 763-3305 Bar Harbor Brewing, 22 Fore St, Bar Harbor, 288-4592 D.L.Geary Brewing, 38 Evergreen Drive, Portland, 878-2337 Gritty McDuff's Brew Pub, 396 Fore St, Portland, 772-2739 Kennebunkport Brewing, 8 Western Ave, Kennebunk, 967-4311 Lake St. George Brewing, RR 1, Box 2505, Liberty, 589-4180 Sea Dog Brewing, 43 Mechanic Street, Camden, 236-6863 Sunday River Brewing, 1 Sunday River Road, Bethel, 824-3541 Three summers ago because the weather had turned foul while vacationing with friends in Rhode Island, we took a drive up to Portland. We spent far too long in Gritty McDuff's that afternoon and evening. The beer seemed just right for the day, against all of our better judgment we stayed overnight in a Holday Inn, went back for more excellent beer and food for lunch the next day before returning to Rhode Island. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 93 06:05:11 PDT From: RDG3%QA%DCPP at encon01.comp.pge.com Subject: Brewing Partner A friend of mine (who does not have access to HBD) recently move to Merced California, and was wondering if there were anyone in the area who was looking for a brewing partner. If you know of any local clubs or individuals please let me know. Thank you, Bob (RDG3 at pge.com) "All you touch & all you see is all your life will ever be." Pink Floyd Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 93 10:20:47 EDT From: LeRoy S. Strohl <lstrohl at s850.mwc.edu> Subject: Darn, I had the chance and I missed it -- not. I heard on the radio as I was coming into work today that Millers has decided to withdraw their Clear Beer. What a bunch of no-brainers they must have in their marketing department. I never tried the stuff and figured I wan't missing anything. You may want to pick up a six for collector's items because you gotta figure that if there are folks who will pay $50 for Billy Beer there will be folks eventually wanting to buy some of the defunct Clear stuff. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 93 10:28:44 EDT From: twilloug at brynmawr.webo.dg.com (Tony Willoughby) Subject: Idophor Stains Howdy, My regular habit for sanitize my bottling bucket is to fill it to the rim with a mild bleach solution. I've recently tried Idophor for this and after two days the inside of my bucket looks rusty! Any way to get rid of this? If not, will it do any harm? - -- Tony Willoughby | twilloug at brynmawr.webo.dg.com | "...and there's some homebrewed stuff | in the promoter's car" | | -Spinal Tap Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 93 11:30:38 EDT From: dipalma at banshee.sw.stratus.com (James Dipalma) Subject: RE: decoction (not again!) Hi All, In HBD#1236, Brian Moore writes: >the decoction discussion has come and gone It's OK Brian, this is one of my favorite brewing topics. :-) >thirty minutes then pulled our first decoction (about 1/3 of the total >volume, mostly >grains). >Our mash came to a temperature of about 140 F and stayed firmly there. >3. Should my first decoction have been bigger? Yes, you should take 40%-50% of the total volume, mostly grains, for the first thick decoction. If the volume pulled is too small, you will undershoot the saccharification rest temperature. Add about 2/3 of the decoction back to the main mash, folding the mash gently in order to avoid thermal gradients and heat the mash evenly. Monitor the temperature as you are doing this, add more of the decoction as needed to hit the saccharification rest temperature. Seal the mash tun. There will likely be some of the decoction remaining in the decoction kettle. Simply allow it to cool for a few minutes, until it is the same temperature as the main mash, then add it back to the main mash. Another advantage to pulling a larger first decoction is it will improve extraction somewhat. Boiling a higher proportion of the grains produces more gelatinized starch, which the amylase enzymes can convert to sugars during the second saccharification rest. > Our plan was to slowly heat this on our propane cooker to about >155 F. It was >then we realized that the words "slowly heat" and "propane cooker" do not go >together >well. After an almost instantaneous local boil, ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ >1. Was my extraction so low because of incomplete conversion or some other >reason? What happened here is that the amylase enzyme that would have converted the first thick decoction during the first saccharification rest was denatured very quickly. That meant the remaining enzymes in the main mash had to convert *ALL* of the mash. Depending on the type of grain used, there may not have been enzymes remaining to achieve complete conversion. The purpose of the first saccharification rest is to convert the starch in the first thick decoction. When the decoction is subsequently boiled, the amylase enzymes are denatured, but conversion has already been achieved. The additional soluble starch released by the boil is easily converted by the remaining enzymes in the main mash during the second saccharification rest. This process of releasing additional soluble starch during the boil, then allowing the amylase enzyme a second phase of conversion, is the cause of the higher extraction rates achieved through decoction mashing. Pulling the thickest 40%-50% should be roughly 2 - 2.5 gallons of mash by volume. This fits easily in a 4 or 5 gallon pot. Heat the mash on the stove slowly, monitoring the temperature. When the desired mash temperature is reached, find some way of stabilizing it. I use a cheap plastic picnic cooler with a trivet in the bottom to avoid melting the plastic. Hold for 30 minutes. Don't worry about the iodine test at this point, as the boil will re-introduce soluble starch into the decocted mash. After 30 minutes, add the decoction back to main mash as described above. >Here we were somewhere between 140 F and 160 F for about 30 minutes It's really important to exercise better control over the mash temperature, if you ever expect to attain any consistent results from your recipes. >Sorry about the length No problem, like I said, one of my favorite brewing topics. Cheers, Jim Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 93 10:31:00 CST From: Thomas_Joe at lanmail.ncsc.navy.mil Subject: Pumpkin reciplease Fellow Brewers, I subscribed to HBD a few months ago and have only recently started reading the info consistently. Therefore, please be lenient with me if I breach any protocol or etiquette(I have witnessed some of the more serious 'discussions'). Anyway, I have seen people mentioning pumpkin brews on occasion and my mouth is beginning to water and my mash tun is twitching! I tasted a friend's Frambroise(raspberry brew) and it was such a treat that I think this fall warrants a pumpkin brew! If anyone has recipes or suggestions for brewing with pumpkin PLEASE respond before my taste buds rebel. Also, this will be my first batch made with fruit or vegetable so any advice is always welcome. I switch back and forth between all-grain and partial mashes so any type of recipe will be appreciated. TIA, JOE (my email address is: Thomas_Joe at lanmail.NCSC.Navy.mil) "We are never as great as we think WE are, and others are never as bad as we think THEY are" -Anonymous - ---------------------- Replied Message Body ---------------------- Date: 9-28-93 1:00am From: {homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com}:ddn:navy To: Thomas_Joe:ncsc:navy Subj: Homebrew Digest #1235 (September 28, 1993) Attach: h:\GATEWAY\IN\HISTORY\47131.att - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- The original message was sent as an attachment because it was too long. See attached file: 47131.att Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 93 10:33:17 EST From: Ulick Stafford <ulick at bizet.helios.nd.edu> Subject: Trub racking, Bottles on side, decoction Ed Hitchcock comments on the Miller suggestion of racking off trub. I did this for a while, but a few very slow takeoffs convinced me that I left most of my yeast behind. If one has consistent yeast habits, it's OK, but mine are so variable. Last night I brewed a wheat beer, pitched at 66F with German Ale yeast slurry top-cropped from my last use of that yeast and had the characteristic Kraeusen from hell by 8 this morning, despite the cold <60F in the basement. Hard to predict when to rack when other yeast takes up to 18 hours or more. Ed also comments on use of blowoffs - or actually non use. I actually reverted back to a plastic bucket for ales and skim - not to remove brown muck- I don't believe it causes problems but to top crop yeast. I suppose I could use blowoffs in the Burton Union method, but for my boiler 5 gallon carboys are too small and 6.5 are too big. But I guess I could dilute at pitching for my weaker beers (15B is really a bit high for the wheat Kolsch I made yesterday - and I'll diltute at bottling anyway). I guess I could shell out for a 6 gallon carboy. Charles Anderson comments that it won't help carbonation to turn a bottle on its side. I won't comment either way, but I did read a published source recommending this procedure for a few days at warmer temperatures immediatly after bottling. I presumed the advantage was to have more yeast sediment close to all the beer, and to improve natural convection patterns that would seem pretty lousy in a bottle. I just bottled beer last night and will turn a few bottles on their side when I get home and see if there is any difference. The patch was primed with wort. I'll report in a week or two. Decoctions again. Last night I brewed a beer with 8lb wheat, 2lb Pale ale (only basic malt I had) and 1lb Cara-pils. I doughed in with cold water, and then added hot to reach a temperature of 100 with 16 qt total. Heated on the burner to 122 and held, and then did the decoction in reverse, i.e. poured the thin stuff into the mashtun. The resulting decoction was huge ~ 60% of the mash. Heated normally and then returned over 5 minutes allowing some of the thick mash to cool before adding it. I rose the small rest mash and the cooler from 117 or so to 155 with little difficulty. I also assume that I boiled more grains than usual and so got a more effective decoction, but also a little more liquid reducing the amount of enzyme in the rest mash. Could the latter be a problem? Otherwise the extra big decoction seemes to be a good solution to the problem of doing decoctions on a small scale - i.e. heat loss during returns. __________________________________________________________________________ 'Heineken!?! ... F#$% that s at &* ... | Ulick Stafford, Dept of Chem. Eng. Pabst Blue Ribbon!' | Notre Dame IN 46556 | ulick at darwin.cc.nd.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 93 11:13 CDT From: arf at genesis.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: Hidebound Brewers, HSA >From: COYOTE <SLK6P at cc.usu.edu> >Subject: Specialty Malts/Hot Side aeration-oxidation >Ok ok. We all have our opinions. Jack your approach reminds me of a brewing friend here who won't budge from his tried and true methods. Despite all the renovations and improvements my brewery has gone through much in part due to major learning/ideas/creations developed from net knowledge. His brews are all made from the basics: Just for the record, Pilsener Urquel is made from pale malt only and might be considered basic beer although, a very highly regarded one. My recommendation is that, until one can consistantly produce such a beer, there is no point in throwing in a dozen other variables that swamp the learning process. It has nothing to do with stiffling creativity. > But what damage can be caused by bubbling air through a mash? Hot Side Aeration. Exactly what the new wave brewers are cursing. > Do other mashers out there take efforts to avoid splashing the wort upon sparging? I am not sure to what extent HSA is a real problem in small batches but I took one simple measure that cost nothing after reading the Fix article. My sweet wort travels from the kitchen to the boiling area at basement level via plastic tubing which passes through the floor. It was free-falling the last foot or so into the brew kettle. I added several feet of copper tubing at the end so it can deposit the wort at the bottom of the kettle without aeration. I do indeed change my process as rational new ideas are presented. js Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 93 10:32:11 EDT From: Lee=A.=Menegoni at nectech.com Subject: Decoction / low extraction In a recent post someone tried the 23 step long strange trip decotion method I posted and and had a couple problems. I had similar problems when I did my first decotions. Slow + propane don't mix... instant boil.. mashed 30 minitues boiled 20. Even if you nuked the enzymes with heat the remaining grains have enough conversion power to convert the starch to sugar, Belgian Pils malt is high in conversion power. The boil will liberate starch that will improve extraction and aid in wort clarity. Remove 1/3 kettle mash boil add to main mash temp is about 140. This is a problem with the Noonan decotion method. You need to kettle mash and boil 40% to 50% in order to get the temp in the 150s other wise you end up with a rest at 140s and a thin bodied beer. This is especially a problem with highly modified grain like the Belgian stuff since it will convert so quickly. Using under modified malts and two kettle mash steps results in most of the grain being converted at high 150s in the kettle mashes and the final fraction in the 140s. Add boiling water to get to desired mash temp, mash for 1.5 hours, do iodine test still negative, sparge anyway .. get clear wort extraction about 22points per lb. I'm guessing but you may have thinned the the mash too much and not converted all the starch to sugar. You also may have severly reduced the enzymes in the brief boil while kettle mashing. This could have resulted in all the enzymes for sugar reduction coming from 2/3 of your grain. Bottom (2) Line(s): If doing a decoction with a single kettle mash step. Kettle mash and boil about 50% of the grains. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 93 12:25:21 EDT From: sean v. taylor <sean at chemres.tn.cornell.edu> Subject: cinnamon in apple cider Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1993 14:42:31 -0500 (EDT) From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> Subject: Re: Recipe request <Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1993 20:33:41 -0300 (ADT) <From: ANDREW GRANT <AGRANT at mta.ca> <Subject: Good Receipes Please :-) <Hi, I know some of you out there have some really good receipes <for beer. Could some of them either be put into this news letter or <sent directly to me. I was meaning to post this anyway: Pale Ale 2 row american *breiss* base malt, target OG 1.063 (total) CaraVienna (DeWolf-Cosyns) 12% of grist Munich (DeWolf-Cosyns) 6% of grist Aromatic (DeWolf-Cosyns) 4% of grist Biscuit (DeWolf-Cosyns) <1% of grist Gypsum in mash US Whole Perle, ~8% alpha in Kettle-60 min Goldings Pellets ~5% 30 min Goldings Pellets 10 and 2 min Saazer Whole Plugs ~3% 2 min Saazer Whole Plugs ~3% dry hopped Add ~1 qt per lb hot water, gypsum and malt. Hold 20 min at 144F. Raise to 152-154, hold 45-60 min, raise to 172, lauter. Boil, hop..... Counter flow chill, add ~10% boiled water to dilute to ~1.050 force oxygen, pitch thick Dominion Ale Yeast FG 1.008, 5.3% ABV Notes: Since this is the time of year that I run out of whole hops (mostly cascade and centennial), I was using up some inventory of Perle (good kettle hop) and goldings (great flavor hop). A brewer friend of mine had a 5oz pack of saazer plugs that he asked me to use (tough situation), so I brewed up the above recipe. I had just made an IPA of 1.060 gravity, so when this batch ended up at 1.063, I decided to continue my experiments with pre ferment dilution. I had already convinced myself prior to this that I could water down a batch considerably with no great impact on flavor, so I went for it here. I am using a counterflow pipeline to run my wort from the brewery to the conditioning room, so I merely hooked up the hot liquor tank to the counterflow pipeline and let 170F water enter the pipeline, chilling and rinsing the line somewhat. After topping up the fermenter, I added O2 and yeast. Tasting: A good amber color, almost no detectable biscuit character, but this may change with more yeast dropping out. The goldings flavor comes through real well but not too strong. The finish of saazer and goldings adds a bit of complexity to the otherwise dominant saazer dry hopping. I had never dry hopped with saaz before, and it is a great change from the norm. Malt notes: Despite the well known limitations of american 2 row malt, I use it without difficulty. The key is to tailor your recipe so that there are abundant flavoring malts/caramel malts to give the body/dextrins/color desired. By adjusting the munich and caramel malts, a very full bodied beer can be brewed with a terminal gravity as low as 1.008. Good brewing, Jim Busch DE HOPPEDUIVEL DRINKT MET ZWIER 'T GEZONDE BLOND HOPPEBIER! Return to table of contents
Date: 29 Sep 93 12:21:00 PST From: "CCA::ELS_DEM" <ELS_DEM%CCA.decnet at consrt.rockwell.com> Subject: Maize/Cornstarch/CherryJuice Since my wife prefers light bodied and light colored brews, but doesn't mind a little alcohol, I have been considering using either maize flakes or corn- starch as an adjunct to an all-grain ale. (You know how it goes, brew something the wife likes so she doesn't complain so much when you brew something you like.) I have seen numerous references to using maize flakes on this digest. I have seen a recipe in TNCJOHB that uses cornstarch. However, does this differ substantially from just throwing in a pound of so of corn suger before the boil? It seems to me that the sugars obtained from mashing cornstarch would be -- corn sugar. Using sugar would make the mash a bit smaller, but would also remove some of the satisfaction of making my own. What's the collective wisdom on this? On another note, I have read with interest the recent posts concerning the brewing of fruit beers through the addition of pure juice. I just tried that. I added three quarts of 100% pure unsweetened cherry juice to the secondary in a recent batch of pale ale. It started another ferment, which completed normally. Although the juice had a very strong cherry flavor, there was absolutely NO cherry flavor in the resulting beer. There is a strange (but not unpleasant) fruity flavor. However, I couldn't tell you if it was cherry, apple, or diet coke. (This beer has the stickiest head I've ever seen. It is actually difficult to wash out of the glass.) I think I may turn this batch into my "holiday beer" by making a "tea" made by steeping spices, e.g. cinnamon, cloves, and allspice, in a quart or so of water, then adding this "tea" to the keg. How well will that work? Cheers, Don Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1993 16:00:18 -0400 (EDT) From: Michael Ligas <ligas at mcmail.cis.mcmaster.ca> Subject: New Cleaner/Sanitizer - an inquiry I was just reading the recent (Fall, 1993) issue of Zymurgy and noticed an ad on page 14 from a company called 'LD Carlson' concerning an "environmentally friendly" cleanser called Straight-A Premium Cleanser and an "environmentally friendly" sanitizer called One Step that apparently requires no rinsing and is not an iodophor. Has anyone tried either one of these products and if so, what are their components? I'm particularily interested in learning about the composition of the sanitizer. I currently use an iodophor and have no problems. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1993 15:35:30 -0500 From: ccamley at mmm.com (Chris Amley - 3M Telecommunications - 612-736-9461) Subject: wort chiller Since I've been reading this list (not more than two months) there have been several items on wort chillers but I didn't seen anything on the lines of *why* a wort chiller. As a new brewer this was not clear to me. Perhaps other newbies are wondering also. The scales have fallen. I used to add about 2 gallons of cold water to 3 gallons of wort and wait six hours for it to cool to pitching temp (80F). Now I made a simple immersion chiller. It went in the wort 10 minutes before the end of the boil. It cut cooling time from six+ hours to nine minutes! Well worth the $32 cost of tubing and connectors, I'd say. Chris Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 93 22:14:39 CET From: Alan B. Carlson <alanc at adb.gu.se> Subject: Xmas ale I am planning on doing a Xmas ale (a bit late to start, perhaps). Situated in Sweden, I don't have access to spruce, but spruce is a pine tree and there's plenty of pine trees in Sweden. Last spring I collected some sprigs and dumped them into a gallon-sized ziplock bag which was subsequently stowed in the freezer. My first question is how much sprigs should I use and should I boil them first (separately) or add them to the boil as one does hops? I usually do 23-26 liter batches (between 6-7 gallons) My second question is should I hop the wort as I normally do or should I go a bit lighter - in case the sprigs impart some bitterness of their own? What I would like to do is come close to last year's Anchor Xmas Ale - btw, has anyone heard what kind of spice profile Anchor will have this year? Alan - ------------------------------------------------------------ Alan B. Carlson Phone: +46 31 772 10 73 University of Gothenburg Fax: +46 31 772 10 91 Department of Information Systems email: alanc at adb.gu.se Holtermansgatan 1 S-412 96 Gothenburg SWEDEN - ------------------------------------------------------------ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 93 18:30:45 EDT From: ai420 at freenet.carleton.ca (Stephen Gardner) Subject: Subscription request Hi, Please add my name to the HBD subscription list. Thanks, Steve - -- Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 93 17:37:00 CDT From: bjw at techsun1.cray.com (Benjamin Woodliff) Subject: Mash temperatures for Scotch Ale I'm not particularity fond of Scotch Ale, at least if bottled McEwan's is a good example of it. So, not wishing to experiment any more than absolutely necessary, I'm curious about how much of what I would refer to as the overpowering "malty sweetness" of McEwan's owes itself to mashing at somewhat higher temperatures? I often use British 2-row and typical mash ales between 150-153 degrees F. >From those that may have some practical experience in this matter, what characteristics of a good sweet malt flavor can be derived from mashing highly modified malt at these somewhat higher mash temperatures (ie. presumably in the 158-160 deg. F range.)? I'd welcome any input on this matter. I'm not necessarily looking to brew a McEwan's clone but would like get a better feel for how much effect higher temps might have on the development of non-fermentable sugars and this flavor characteristic. Thanks, Ben Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1993 09:22:08 -0600 (CDT) From: jim at n5ial.mythical.com (Jim Graham) Subject: oatmeal stout extract / different tastes from different mugs First off, Jonathan G Knight <KNIGHTJ at AC.GRIN.EDU> writes: > Subject: oatmeal stout extract, mash HSA > Jim, my e-mail to you bounced. Either your site didn't use the Reply-To: address (n5ial!jim at gagme.chi.il.us) I included, or it didn't like the bang-path (there are sites that can't handle bang-paths). Oh well, mail to me at my real address, jim at n5ial.mythical.com, *SHOULD* be ok by the time this hits the digest. > William's Brewing is a big mail-order outfit in San LEandro CA. Their malt/ > oat extract syrup, Oatmeal Dark, is one I used with great success last year. > You can add more specialty grain or extract if you want (I did) but I imagine > it's pretty good just by itself too. (I have no finacial or other [....] Does anyone have an address, or better yet, a phone number (1-800 number if possible) for these folks? I've got to do an oatmeal stout, and at least for now, an extract brew is the only way it'll happen. But oatmeal stout is just too good as an after-dinner/late-night treat to pass up! Next subject.... I've noticed that different beer mugs I have will make various beers appear to taste better/worse. For example, I have a mug that I got in San Antonio, TX one time that's basically a giant ceramic coffee mug (probably around 18 oz). I've noticed that it's better, by far, for darker brews (e.g., stout, bock, etc.), but not for pale ales and such. I also have a very, very nice stoneware mug that my mom brought back from one of her trips to Germany (it was West Germany at the time, if that means anything). This is the best for the lighter ales, lagers, etc., but is just ``ok'' for the very dark brews. I have plain glass mugs, too, that are ok (but not anything special) for everything (except for the batch I'm about to bring up in a second).... Last night, I discovered that a pewter mug that my mom brought back from a trip to England seems to mask a slight off taste in a batch that I posted questions about here several months ago (it was very cidery at the time). In any other mug, there is still a slight hint of a cidery taste on at least the first few sips of each fresh beer. From the pewter mug, however, it's just d*mned good beer with no off tastes at all. Does anyone have any idea what causes this? Btw, I'm not the only one who has noticed it. When I took some of the bock (I posted an article about that here, too) to the local homebrew shop for them to try, they also noticed the difference between the San Antonio ceramic mug and their plain glass mug. So I know I'm not imagining things.... Is it just the texture of the mug that changes one's perception of the flavor? Or is there some magical property of different types of glass (or pewter) that actually does change the flavor in some way? Later, --jim - -- #include <std_disclaimer.h> 73 DE N5IAL (/4) - -------------------------< Running Linux 0.99 PL10 >-------------------------- *** E-mail to me from now until roughly 2 Oct.: n5ial!jim at gagme.chi.il.us *** AMATEUR RADIO: (packet station temporarily offline) AMTOR SELCAL: NIAL internet: jim at n5ial.mythical.com | j.graham at ieee.org ICBM: 30.23N 86.32W - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ E-mail me for information about KAMterm (host mode for Kantronics TNCs). Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1237, 09/30/93