HOMEBREW Digest #1441 Sat 04 June 1994

Digest #1440 Digest #1442

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Shaken peptides, low CO2, dunkelweizen, HSA, Jap. beetles (Nancy.Renner)
  Low extract, brewing books, homebrew clubs, cheap thermometers (Nancy.Renner)
  A little of this, and not much of anything... (alan l causey)
  Re: Bugs on the Hops! (Dave Coombs)
  Picnic Tap and Hose Rinser (was: New Kegger) (Brew Free Or Die  02-Jun-1994 1639)
  ginger, root beer recipes (Btalk)
  Looking for a peculiar beer recipe (Debbie Gandert)
  club ideas?/mailing (Andrei Alfred Fintescu)
  First "pressings" (Fred Waltman)
  Oregon Homebrew Festival results (Ted Manahan)
  Phil's Lauter Tun ( LARRY KELLY)
  (Fwd) Party Pig & Bluebeery (Paul Malmont)
  German tested Extract Weizen recipe (PNEUMAND)
  Broken bottles (Jim King)
  micro-brewery festival (djfitzg)
  Fruit beers (GONTAREK)
  Starting the Siphon ("Craig Amundsen")
  Hunter Controls (James Syniura)
  Infusion mashing a weizen (Art Steinmetz)
  San Francisco Brewpubs? (Jana Jones)
  cooties in extract (Eric Miller)
  Finish Hopping (npyle)
  Dunkelweizens and beer color (Rich Lenihan)
  Brew Cap ("Bill Knecht")
  Summary info on New England Brew Pubs (R. Keith Frank)
  Will trade spruce for chiles (huffmand)
  Question on priming with extract (BAIER_T)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 2 Jun 94 15:33:16 EDT From: Nancy.Renner at um.cc.umich.edu Subject: Shaken peptides, low CO2, dunkelweizen, HSA, Jap. beetles >From *Jeff* Renner Domenick Venezia asks for the source of the article Mark Simpson quoted claiming that head forming proteins were damaged by the "force and shake" method of carbonation. It was in the article "Gas Gossip: Nitrogen vs. Carbon Dioxide in Brewing" in the new (Summer, 1994) *Zymurgy*, 7:2, p.55., by Cliff Tanner, who, according the bio at the end of the article, is "a brewer and member of the Northern AleStars Homebrewers Guild for 12 years, (and) is owner of Braukunst Homebrewers Systems, a kegging specialty company." The specific quote is, "Although some people shake their kegs to speed up the carbonation process, this is a bad practice because the agitation can affect shelf life and head forming capacity. Shaking breaks some of the medium-length peptide chains necessary for head formation." He gives four references at the end of the article but doesn't give a specific citation for this claim. When I saw this, I wondered about it myself. It seemed implausible on its face and contrary to my experience. I'd like to know Cliff's source for this. Thanks, Domenick, for refutation from someone who knows peptides. Dave Draper in Sidney has carbonation problems. Dave, one first place to check, although it's not too likely, is crown caps and bottle lips. Make sure they are sealing. However, I bet that the change in extracts is the source of your problem. I imagine that the dry extract you used in the UK had more slowly fermentable residuals that added to the bottle CO2. Assuming that you are looking for 2.3 volumes, a rather typical carbonation, your latest try of 9 g priming sugar/liter should be right on. Here's why: yeast metabolizes sugar into nearly half CO2 and half EtOH, which would give you 4.5 g CO2/liter, which is 2.3 volumes (see Warner, "German Wheat Beer," p. 39). I think you've already solved your problem empirically. BTW, have you considered batch priming? It seems to me to be a lot less trouble, as long as you make sure the priming solution is evenly distributed. Spencer Thomas asks for ideas for a dunkleweizen, and I though I'd share the ideas I already gave him privately. I like to use Munich malt for continental darks. I think it gives the proper rich maltiness without the dark roasted flavor that is out of place. Since only 30% of his grain bill is barley malt, substituting Munich for Pils would only give a ruddy color, as Spencer points out. I have made "Munich" wheat malt following Miller's (CHHB, pp. 202-203) directions for home kilned Munich barley malt, and from which I made a dunkleweizen. I had no conversion problems, so enzymes seemed OK. Spencer doesn't remember, but he probably judged this beer at the 1993 Mich. State Fair, where it took a (probably weak) third (it was newly bottled). A dark crystal would not be out of place, either. I don't have experience with aromatic malt, something I intend to remedy. I think chocolate malt, unless subliminal, would be out of place. Having said all this in favor of using lots of Munich, I should offer one caveat: I believe such dark grains are more susceptible to HSA. I have a low OG (1.040) dark lager that was all Munich and some crystal that was lagered for six weeks and then kept too long at dispensing temperature (44^F). After 10 weeks on tap it began to acquire a toffee flavor, and within two more weeks it had crashed and burned, become undrinkably wet cardboardy. It tasted great when it was fresh. Polyclar at racking might have helped, but I'm a careful brewer and hadn't had the problem before, so I didn't use it. George Cavanaugh has trouble with Japanese beetles. George, an effective, "green" method of control is a pheromone baited trap. They really work. If you can't get one locally, try Gardens Alive at (812)537-8650 (usual disclaimer). Jeff >From *Jeff* Renner Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 94 15:35:54 EDT From: Nancy.Renner at um.cc.umich.edu Subject: Low extract, brewing books, homebrew clubs, cheap thermometers >From *Jeff* Renner* George Tempel (& Frank Haist) is worried about low mash extract. George, I agree with Randy Davis, you've made a good start. But you are right, you should be able to get a better extract. A few thoughts. Don't rush your sparge. If everything is working right, you can pull the runoff so fast that the sugars don't have time to dissolve. One gallon per five or six minutes should be tops. This can especially be a problem if you don't mash off, since they are less soluble at lower temperatures. You could safely raise your sparge temperature to 176^F. Since you already diluted your mash going from protein rest to saccharification, you may not want to add any more boiling water to take it up to mash off. However, you may be able to skip the protein rest in favor of a mash off. If you are using American two row, a protein rest is probably unnecessary. You mention that your initial runoff was a little cloudy. You may want to consider recirculating the first one or two gallons. An additional advantage to this is you can use a decoction mash off by heating the early runoff to boiling before stirring it back into the mash, or at least the top 3/4, so you don't disturb the bottom of the grain bed. You might also get a longer wooden spoon or paddle since you said you can't reach the bottom of the Gott. If you watch your runoff pH and SG (cool before checking both), you'll get an idea of when to stop and whether you've left any "goodies" in the Gott. I like to stop around 1.005 - 1.008, as long as the pH is under six. At this point it has nearly no color or sweetness. You might be able to sparge a little more if you begin to boil after the first gallon (watch for scorching), thereby reducing volume earlier. Earlier, Melissa Schauder had some questions, some of which were nicely answered here later. Melissa, I will fulfill your misgivings that someone would suggest that you invest in a good brewing book by doing just that. They aren't expensive. Now that it's the end of the semester, you must be returning some textbooks for credit (you know, that "Seventeenth Century Hungarian Cathedrals" that you had to buy for History of Art and then never even cracked ?). I would recommend one of three, depending on your style. Charlie Papazian's "Complete Joy of Homebrewing" is fun and loosey goosey, full of recipes, and really encouraging in its "Relax, don't worry, have a homebrew" approach. Dave Miller's "Complete Book of Brewing" is kind of at the opposite end of the scale - scientifically oriented, more of why, not just what to do. Miller's new book, "Brewing the World's Great Beers", is in the middle, more of a beginner's "how to," but to my mind, better based on good techniques than Charlie's. Any one of these would repay their investment many times over. You asked if anyone else in St. Louis brews. Indeed they do, and there are two clubs. The aforementioned Dave Miller is now brewmaster at the St. Louis Brewery, but he used to be president of the St. Louis Brews. Contact Jerry S. Dahl, 9 Adams Lane, Kirkwood, MO 63122, (314)822-8039. There is also the Mo. Winemaking Society, c/o Paul Hendricks, 2018 Norma Lane, St. Louis, MO, 63138. Brewers in the rest of the country - see the comprehensive list of clubs in the new Zymurgy (the same one with questionable peptide information). Then join a club near you. If you are a beginner, there will be lots of advice, encouragement and feedback available from more experienced brewers. If you are experienced, there is still more to learn, and you can offer beginners your pearls of wisdom. I learn something new every meeting (or HBD, for that matter). David Lambermont asks about mash temperature and thermometer advice. Yes, David, you will find an enormous difference in temperatures in a mash. Stir with a good paddle (but don't aerate). You wanted a quick responding thermometer. A dial stem thermometer is the ticket. Our local Sam's club has a three pack of adjustable, one inch dial, six inch stem, American made thermometers, for under $10! I almost bought a pack, even though I don't need any more. Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 94 14:36:40 -0500 From: alan l causey <alc at fiona.umsmed.edu> Subject: A little of this, and not much of anything... Fellow Brewers, I asked a question a couple of weeks ago about brewpubless states...we unfortunate souls seem to be MS, SC, GA, AL (?), HI (about to be rectified), and PA (something about wierd laws). Someone also mentioned UT - but I seem to remember posts about Utah brewpubs - maybe just micros? If you live in or just love Mississippi - please write me - I have nebulous desires to change our brewpublessness. If you have been active in changing the laws elsewhere, your input would be invaluable! TIA. If you are in the Jackson, MS area and are interested in forming a homebrew club...please e-mail, regular mail or phone me... Beer bellies are beautiful, BA Al Causey Department of Pediatrics University of Mississippi Medical Center 2500 N. State Street Jackson, MS 39216-4505 (601) 984-5299 alc at fiona.umsmed.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 02 Jun 94 15:47:50 -0400 From: Dave Coombs <coombs at cme.nist.gov> Subject: Re: Bugs on the Hops! I guess beetle traps don't work for you? Hand picking is about the only other method I know. I assume you use stuff to kill grubs in your lawn so they don't survive to become beetles the following year. Maybe local garden groups or your friendly local cooperative extension agent would have suggestions. dave Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 94 16:39:21 EDT From: Brew Free Or Die 02-Jun-1994 1639 <hall at buffa.enet.dec.com> Subject: Picnic Tap and Hose Rinser (was: New Kegger) In HBD #1438, new kegger Bill Rust solicited clever ideas on how to clean picnic tappers. I know where he's coming from. Soda kegs are very convenient, but I always hated drawing one or two pints and then be faced with cleaning the picnic tap. I never felt comfortable leaving it on the keg with its beverage line full of beer, and I quickly grew tired of partially dismantling it to rinse it out. So, a few years ago, I designed this gadget to make my life easier. As with the Keg Pressure Tester and Relief Valve plans that I posted in HBD #1422, the prices and catalog numbers are from Foxx Beverage Corp, September, 1991. ITEM CATALOG # DESCRIPTION QUAN PRICE 1a Snap Nipple 1 ~2.00 1b Washing Machine Quick-Disconnect 1 ~5.00 2 05B01-296 3/4" FHT x 1/2" FPT Adapter 1 1.22 3 05B01-160 MP Reducer 1/2" MPT x 1/4" MPT 1 .93 4 15E04-450 Ball Lock Adapter 1/4" FPT x 9/16-18 Male 1 4.48 5 15E04-304 Liquid Tank Plug Assy, Cornelius Ball 1 4.79 ________ | | \ / / \ 1a Stays attached to faucet \ / ------ DEFINITIONS Q-D Quick Disconnect ___________ FHT Female Hose Thread < > 1b FPT Female Pipe Thread | | MPT Male Pipe Thread \ / MP Male Pipe --------- 9/16-18 9/16" diameter, | | 18 threads per inch \ / 2 | | | | _________ This whole assembly | | 3 clips onto Item 1a --------- | | 4 _________ | | \ / 5 / \ \ / ----- Items 1a and 1b are often packaged as a set and can be found in most home improvement stores. The Snap Nipple (Item 1a) screws onto your sink faucet and stays there. The Washing Machine (or dishwasher) Quick-Disconnect (Item 1b) snaps on and off the snap nipple in the same manner as a ball-lock soda disconnect. There are two types of these available. One has a small diameter snap nipple and a smooth white plastic disconnect ring. The other type has a larger diameter snap nipple and a white disconnect ring with ridges on it. This second type of disconnect incorporates an aerator. If you are installing a snap nipple to your faucet, and you have to remove an aerator from the faucet to do it, continued domestic bliss dictates that you use the second type. Item 2, the 3/4" FHT x 1/2" FPT Adapter, adapts (duh!) the quick-disconnect's 3/4" male hose threads to the MP Reducer 1/2" MPT x 1/4" MPT (Item 3). The reducer is a means of adapting from 1/2" threads to the 1/4" threads of the Ball Lock Adapter 1/4" FPT x 9/16-18 Male (Item 4). The Liquid Tank Plug Assy, Cornelius Ball (Item 5) then threads onto the ball lock adapter. I keep this gadget in a kitchen drawer where it's handy. After I've drawn a pint from a keg, I remove the picnic tap, line and disconnect and bring it to the kitchen sink. I attach the keg disconnect to the gadget, attach the gadget to the faucet, turn on the faucet, and then run water through the picnic tap and line to rinse it out. I know it isn't sanitized, but at least it's somewhat clean. I use quick-disconnects in many places in my brewery. My jet bottle washer has one attached and snaps right onto my kitchen faucet for quick use, then snaps off. My wort chiller has a snap nipple on it, and I attach it to the faucet with a washing machine hose with Q-Ds on each end of it. I have a hose sprayer with a snap nipple on it and, using the chiller's washing machine hose, I attach the sprayer to the hose and the hose to the kitchen faucet, to facilitate cleaning out kegs and spraying the cat. Obviously, with a small change of parts, this gadget could also be used with pin-lock disconnects. Enjoy! - -- Dan Hall Digital Equipment Corporation MKO1-2/H10 Merrimack, NH 03054 hall at buffa.enet.dec.com ....!decwrl!buffa.dec.com!hall "Adhere to Schweinheitsgebot Don't put anything in your beer that a pig wouldn't eat" --David Geary Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 02 Jun 94 17:01:21 EDT From: Btalk at aol.com Subject: ginger, root beer recipes A friend without HBD access is looking for recipes for: 1) Root Beer Ale and 2) Ginger Beer. Does anyone have good ones to share? Thanks, Bob Talkiewicz <btalk at aol.com> Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 02 Jun 94 16:16:28 MDT From: Debbie Gandert <dgander%ccgate1 at intelect.com> Subject: Looking for a peculiar beer recipe Text item: Text_1 I'm pretty new to making my own homebrew and have mostly used malt extracts. I'm looking for a recipe that would produce a brew similar to the English "Old Peculiar". Thanks for your input!! Debbie G. <dgander at intelect.com> Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 1994 15:18:41 -0700 (PDT) From: Andrei Alfred Fintescu <eaou288 at orion.oac.uci.edu> Subject: club ideas?/mailing Does anybody out there belong to a homebrewing club at a university? I was thinking of starting one at mine and would appreciate any tips/ideas about activities or the like. emailing me privately may be better as to not waste space/time. Thanksalot. Also, someone asked about mailing homebrews. I mailed a six pack, in the cardboard holder, wrapped with some newspaper and bubble wrap, in a box barely bigger, and they arrived fine. I did use stronger Pacifico bottles. I don't think the stirring will be a problem if the recipient lets them settle. What the post office doesn't know won't hurt 'em- just my opinion on the alcohol mailing policy. One possibly major problem- it cost me $11+ to mail the six pack, ups. Beer for Peace! A. Fintescu eaou288 at orion.oac.uci.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 1994 15:04:48 -0700 (PDT) From: waltman at netcom.com (Fred Waltman) Subject: First "pressings" Somebody posed a question a few days back about a Japaneese brewery advertising that they use only the "first pressings". That sounded familiar so I dug out "The Practical Brewer" and sure enough the chapter on wort production describes the use of a filter press for wort separation. After the filter is full and the wort has been recirculated for clarity, the first wort is drained before sparging begins. Some copywriter seeing this might (I guess) call the first runnings the "first pressings." Fred Waltman Culver City Home Brewing Supply waltman at netcom.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 1994 17:16:18 -0700 From: Ted Manahan <tedm at hpcvcdq.cv.hp.com> Subject: Oregon Homebrew Festival results Full-Name: Ted Manahan Results from the 1994 Oregon Homebrew Festival and Competition Best of Show: Chris Studach of the Cascade Brewers Society for his Scotch Heavy The club competition was won by the Oregon Brewers Society - -------------------------------------------------------------- LIGHT LAGER 1st Ted Manahan Munich helles Munich lager 2nd Kenton Cruzan vienna Graf Vienna 3rd John Sterner vienna - -------------------------------------------------------------- DARK LAGER 1st Eric Munger Double Bock rejuventor 2nd Chris Studach maibock 3rd D & M Brockington Helles Bock Bach and Roll - -------------------------------------------------------------- BRITISH PALE ALE 1st D & M Brockington IPA sister star of the s 2nd Randy Reid British bitter Black adder bitter 3rd Scott Sanders ESB Accidental esb - -------------------------------------------------------------- AMERICAN PALE ALE 1st Martin Wilde American pale elmonica crystal 2nd Dave Mooney American pale Moonshine red 3rd Russ Kazmierzak american pale - -------------------------------------------------------------- DARK ALE 1st Pat Savage mild aloha amber 2nd Donald Johnson brown ale 3rd David Hunter light brown - -------------------------------------------------------------- STRONG BEER 1st Kenton Cruzan trappist ale Cruzers abdij 2nd Ted Manahan barley wine barley whine 3rd Douglas Faynor Imperial stout Dr. Jack - -------------------------------------------------------------- PORTER 1st Griffith & Boach Robust porter Mossy rock 2nd Tony Rao Robust porter Bonnie porter 3rd David Hunter robust porter - -------------------------------------------------------------- STOUT 1st D & M Brockington Foreign New Stout III 2nd Marc Worona Foreign 3rd D & V Gaillebeau stout nutley stout - -------------------------------------------------------------- SPECIALTY 1st Chris Studach scotch heavy 2nd Marc Worona smoked porter 3rd Douglas Faynor Belgian Lambic Kripple Kriek - -------------------------------------------------------------- SPECIALTY - FRUIT 1st Michael Fetzer Apricot pale missing link 2nd Steve Woolard Specialty Banana Wheat 3rd Micah Nasarow fruit Cherry ale - -------------------------------------------------------------- WHEAT 1st D & M Brockington Belgian Wheat zoso white 2nd Michael Fetzer Wezein bock wheatahine 3rd Jerry Marshall wheat reprise weizen - -------------------------------------------------------------- Judging sheets will be mailed out by June 6. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 02 Jun 1994 20:15:54 EDT From: KMYH09A at prodigy.com ( LARRY KELLY) Subject: Phil's Lauter Tun Can someone tell me what level of extraction I can anticipate using Phil's Lauter Tun? I'm in the process of beginning an All Grain Brew, and have read in previous HBD that one should know or have a good idea at what the level of extraction should be with one's equipment when designing a recipe. also can one take an OG before boiling to figure the level of extraction pts/gal or can you only tell after the boil? Larry KMYH09A at prodigy.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 1994 21:33:09 -0400 From: Paul Malmont <sinatra at pipeline.com> Subject: (Fwd) Party Pig & Bluebeery Forwarding mail by: homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com () on 6/2/94 8:58:00 PM - ------------------- I recently read in The Ale Street News (a great beer newspaper) about The Boston Beer Works's Bluebery Ale. Anyone out there have a receipe for a blueberry flavored ale? (I haven't made the jump to all grain yet so the simpler the better) Send to private e-mail or post. Thanks Rich Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 02 Jun 1994 21:48:44 -0400 (EDT) From: PNEUMAND at delphi.com Subject: German tested Extract Weizen recipe After 3 attempts, I have finally perfected an extract Weizen recipe that even the Germans at our Munich-based company approve of; 1 can Brewmart Mexican Cerveza-style kit, hopped 1 can Munton and Fison Wheat Malt Extract 1/2 # Wheat Grain, cracked and seeped for 45 minutes at 150 deg. 1 tsp. Irish Moss (last 5 min. of boil for clarity) 1 pk. yeast from Brewmart kit Fermented at about 80 deg. and bottld with 1 cup Corn Sugar. Ready at 3 weeks. Sounds strange, but came out excellent. VERY much like German Weizens on tap in Munich. (not hefe or dunkel, though....still more experimenting to be done) Hope this helps some beginners out there. ( And maybe some all-grain types who are adventurous enough to visit this side of the fence for 1 batch :) ) I had tried the True Brew Weizen (with 2 Wheat cans) before with thumbs down from the Germans. (and me too...) I also tried the above recipe with 1# Light DME instead of the 1/2# wheat with similar results (thumbs down). Dave Pneuman at Siemens Nixdorf Boca Raton, Florida Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 1 Jun 94 20:35:00 -0800 From: jim.king at kandy.com (Jim King) Subject: Broken bottles Richard Nantel wrote: H>there, I noticed the bottles in the center of the crate were about an H>lower H>than the bottles around the edge. I had time to utter one short %# at be H>bottom fell out. (No, the box wasn't wet -- just old.) H>All 24 crashed to the floor. Five exploded sending glass everywhere. A H>noise subsided, I realized my left knee was badly gashed. The wound wa H>bone and required 16 stitches to close. Glad it wasn't worse. I had a glass S-lock shatter in my hand a couple of months back, requiring 6 stitches, but luckily, barely missing any tendons. It was pretty bad, too, because I was between insurance companies for that ONE week, so the doctor bills ended up at around $700 before it was all over. I now use plastic air locks. On the good side of the incident, I can now claim that I am willing to bleed for my beer, much as Jim Cook would have you believe he does. :} Jim King jim.king at kandy.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 94 07:39:48 EDT From: djfitzg at VNET.IBM.COM Subject: micro-brewery festival greetings all: this coming weekend june 10th,11th. stoudts brewery will be hosting their eastern invitational micro-brewery festival. stoudts brewery rt 272 adamstown pa. 717-484-4386. no affiliation. hoppy brewing! djfitzg at vnet.ibm.com dan fitzgerald Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 1994 8:24:54 -0400 (EDT) From: GONTAREK at FCRFV1.NCIFCRF.GOV Subject: Fruit beers Greetings to all of you folks out there in homebrew-land. I have a question for you all. Being that the Summer is here and a local farm will soon have pick your own blueberries, I plan to brew my summertime traditional fruit beer. Last year I made a raspberry ale that was quite excellent. I tossed the raspberries in at the end of the boil to pasteurize them, and then tossed everything into the primary fermenter. While the resulting beer had a noticeable pink hue and tart aroma, it lacked the serious raspbeery (pun intended) flavor that I was after. I seem to remember that at one point there was a discussion here relating to the use of fruit in beers. So, my question: Is it better to add the fruit to the secondary fermenter or directly to the primary as I did? Does fermentation scrub lots of the raspbeery character out of the beer? If the fruit is added to the secondary, how is it pasteurized? In thumbing through the Cat's Meow, I see recipies that use both methods. I would be grateful for any answers. By the way, if anyone wants my raspbeery ale recipe, email me. Thanks, everyone, in advance! Rick Gontarek gontarek at ncifcrf.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 1994 07:32:01 -0500 (CDT) From: "Craig Amundsen" <amundsen at molbio.cbs.umn.edu> Subject: Starting the Siphon In an effort to keep this thread alive, I have to relate the technique I used to start a siphon last night. I was tranferring from a carboy into my bottling bucket. I had the racking cane in the carboy, held in place with one of those orange, two hole, rubber caps (I don't know what they're called). The cane was stuck through one hole, and I blew into the other. This started the siphon with no problems. This may not be too sanitary, but it can't be much worse than what lands in the beer as it sits in the bucket. - Craig Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 94 08:49:41 EDT From: jsyniura at on.bell.ca (James Syniura) Subject: Hunter Controls Any Canadian readers know were I could purchase the Hunter thermostat control ? I understand that the manufacture has stop production, but there must be one or two left. Any American readers know of a mail order firm who has stock , in the U.S. ?? Thanks, I will post any reply`s I receive - --- |||||| (o o) |----------------------ooO---(__)---Ooo----------------------| | | | James Syniura jsyniura at on.bell.ca | | NTAS - Network Technical and Admin. Support | | Bell Canada | | Toronto, Ontario. Canada | |------------------------------------------------------------| || || (__) (__) |||||| (o o) |----------------------ooO---(__)---Ooo----------------------| | | | James Syniura jsyniura at on.bell.ca | | NTAS - Network Technical and Admin. Support | | Bell Canada | | Toronto, Ontario. Canada | |------------------------------------------------------------| || || (__) (__) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 1994 09:24:39 -0400 From: Art Steinmetz <asteinm at pipeline.com> Subject: Infusion mashing a weizen Steve Zabarnick asks about Infusion mashing a Weizen with W3068. 'd say go for it. The yeast does it's thing quite well with infusion mashed extracts. I took 2nd place in Weiss Is Nice last year with such a brew. You'll definitely get the cloviness you seek. That being said I brewed one of Warners recipes last month. My first decoction. It's fun and certainly more intimidating on paper than in real life. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 1994 07:55:12 -0600 From: jana at niwot.scd.ucar.EDU (Jana Jones) Subject: San Francisco Brewpubs? I'll be attending a seminar in San Francisco, and will be there from June 19-24. Anyone know of good brewpubs in the area or any homebrewing activities going on? I'm taking my homebrewing-husband with me, and would like to surprise him... Personal replies appreciated...Thanks! Jana L. Jones jana at ncar.ucar.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 03 Jun 94 10:14:39 CDT From: Eric Miller <GHMILLER at MUSIC.LOYNO.EDU> Subject: cooties in extract hiya folks, something someone mentioned a couple of digests ago about spoiled extract gave me a spooky feeling. Is it possible that those pesky bacterial cooties can invade bulk uncanned extract and spoil it? I have some extract I bought a month ago that has been sitting in an 85F cabinet...ideal cootie conditions (you may remember my last post re: my bacterial problems) TIA for your thoughts Eric ghmiller at music.loyno.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 94 9:20:19 MDT From: npyle at n33.ecae.stortek.com Subject: Finish Hopping Larry Kelly asks: >Can someone enlighten me as to which Hop type is best for flavor only? >Also does the AAU matter if the hop is used for only flavor adding at end >of boil. This is like asking what's the best tasting food. You'll get more opinions than hop varieties, and it really depends on what style of beer you're brewing. I personally like East Kent Golding, Hallertauer Mittelfrueh, Saaz, Liberty, Mt. Hood, and Cascades. Which one's are best? You got me. The alpha acid percentage is not critical if added at the end of boil and quickly chilled. This is because it takes elevated temperatures to isomerize the alpha acids into their bitter components. There will be some bittering contribution though, as the wort will remain at elevated temperature for a finite amount of time (also depends on the type of chilling and the method of finish hopping). Cheers, Norm = npyle at n33.stortek.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 1994 12:18:08 -0400 (EDT) From: rlenihan at marcam.com (Rich Lenihan) Subject: Dunkelweizens and beer color In HBD 1439, Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu writes: >But before I start, I thought I'd get the "wisdom" :-) of the HBD on >my side. Questions: >1. Does anyone have a great all-grain dunkelweizen recipe? (That you > will share !accurately! with me?) >2. What's the best way, in your opinion, to darken a dunkelweizen: > a. Dark crystal malt > b. Chocolate malt > c. Other "color malt" (Aromatic? Munich?) > d. Other? > >My tentative recipe is looking something like this: >* 30-70 Pilsener (DW-C) - Wheat (DW-C or Ireks) >* Some amount (5%?) of dark crystal (Ireks 90L) to darken and add body >* A small amount (2%?) of chocolate malt to darken and add a touch of > roast flavor. >* Double decoction mash. >* 12 IBUs of hops, 60 min. >This gives OG 1.052, Color 20L, which is about on target for the AH >style sheet. I just made a dunkelweizen this weekend. I would say, from reading Warner's book, that the best way to add color is with dark munich malt. I don't think (from memory) that he used crystal or chocolate malt in any of his recipes. Since I could not find any dark munich malt, however, I "cheated" with crystal and chocolate malt. My grain bill (for 5 US gallons): 5 lbs wheat malt 3 lbs light munich 1.25 lbs Briess 2-row 8 oz light crystal (20L) 2 oz medium crystal (40L) 2 oz chocolate malt (400L) This, along with a 90-minute boil, gave me the medium-amber color I was looking for. Time will tell if the crystal and chocolate will give the beer an undesirable harshness. I think you'd want a fairly soft finish in any weizen. I've tried this year's SA Summer Wheat (Dunkelweizen) and I think it's too harsh, as well as under-carbonated. The color's right, though. Speaking of color and dunkelweizens... Does anyone else think that the AHA color range for Dunkelweizen is too dark? If the range is 17-22 SRM and 17 SRM = Michelob Classic Dark, then all the commercial dunkelweizens I've had (4 or 5) have been too light for style. and... Does anyone have a chart that compares degrees L or SRM with EBC? I have the formula from George Fix's article but since he disparaged it and since I hate math a simple comparison chart might be more useful to me. -Rich rlenihan at world.std.com OR rlenihan at marcam.com - -- Rich Lenihan "It was like that when I found it!" - Homer Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 94 11:19:50 CDT From: "Bill Knecht" <knecht at mind.psych.umn.edu> Subject: Brew Cap Hello, This is about siphoning. I've been away from the Digest, and so may have missed it, but has anyone tried a thing called Brew Cap? It's a soft plastic cap that snugs over the carboy mouth. It has two nipples on top, with a hole in the end of each. Into one goes the siphon cane, into the other goes pressure from ye olde lungs. You blow into the auxillary nipple, increasing the air pressure inside the carboy, and forcing beer up the siphon cane & tube. No muss, no fuss. Works great. Cheap too. Beer is not touched by human hands, so infection risk is minimal (of course you might want to take a slug of Wild Turkey before you blow, purely for its oral sanitization properties, mind you). Hey, if this was already mentioned, don't flame me. I'm already sufficiently crisp. Bill Knecht .................................................................... .^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^. . William Knecht (knecht at mind.psych.umn.edu) . . ...and now for your randomly-selected quotation... . .................................................................... "Progress might have been all right once, but it went on too long." Ogden Nash Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 1994 12:45:03 -0400 From: keithfrank at dow.com (R. Keith Frank) Subject: Summary info on New England Brew Pubs Following is a long summary of info I received from HBD repliers on brewpubs, pubs, and breweries in the northeast, posted by request. Many thanks to all those that sent information. Edited replies are attached that contained opinions, since that seems to be what HBD thrives on (names are deleted). Other sources that would be of interest but too long to post: 1. New England Beer Club, Breweries of the Northeast, Release 4.0 File: Eastern.Brewpubs A complete(?) list of breweries/brewpubs in CT,DC,ME,MA,NH,NJ,NY,PA,VT with addresses, phone numbers, and in some cases, hours. Sent by: Philip DiFalco, SIS, Systems & Operation Management Development FannieMae, 3900 Wisconsin Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20016 (202)752-2812 email: sxupjd at fnma.com (NeXT Mail Okay) 2. Global (no kidding) list of brewpubs, pubs, breweries, liquor stores "PUBLIST" is a HUGE file with an incredible amount of information. Broken down by country, province, state, and/or city. Contains opinions as well as facts. Available by anonymous FTP from sierra.stanford.edu. 3. Book suggestion "You really ought to get a book called "On Tap New England" by Steve Johnson. It lists all the micros and brewpubs in N.E. Published by WBR Publications, PO Box 71, Clemson, S.C. 29633. Phone: (803) 654-3360. (I have no connection w/the author or publisher other than having bought the book.)" And now the summary. The information is specific for Boston area, Massachusetts, Maine, New Hampshire, and Rhode Island. I would make one recommendation from a very short trip to Boston in April - Tremont Ale, served at the Deluxe Cafe near Copley Square. A new brewery, products only available in kegs for now. Brewery tours available. Bruce DeBolt c/o keithfrank at dow.com - --------------------------------------------------------------------- BOSTON - multiple opinions listed. BrewPubs Cambridge Brewing Co, Hampshire St., Cambridge MA - Beer is very good and the food is excellent. Best brewpub in Boston area. - I haven't thought much of their regular beers, but occasionally the specials were \wonderful/ (Bronx Cheer Stout...). Food a bit random. Boston Beer Works, Brookline St (across from Fenway Park) - Good, avoid ball game crowds - Excellent beers but it's a tad noisy here. Gotta try their IPA! - Good eclectic food in fairly substantial portions. Wide variety of beers- good flagship red, golden with raspberry or blueberry (latter very good), stout, strong ale, lots of specials. Probably the best currently open. WARNING: they're directly opposite Fenway Park, so they'll be jammed if the Red Sox are at home. John Harvard Brewpub, 33 Dunster St, Cambridge - 'Nicest' brewpub, beers are so-so, food very good. Commonwealth Brewery, Portland St. (1 block from the Boston Garden) - IMHO the worst BP for beers. Serve everything in heavy thick glasses so it feels like a lot but it isn't. - English style, OK bitter (they've weakened the recipes in recent years) and stout, OK food. (This is the only BP I've been to in Boston and I didn't like the beer - B. DeBolt) - In the Boston area, my favorites are Boston Beer Works, conveniently located directly across the street from Fenway Park, near Kenmore Square and John Harvard's Brewhouse in Harvard Square, Cambridge. BARS Doyles, 3484 Washington St, Boston (Jamaica Plain) - The best bar in city area. Very old and dark. About 25 beers on tap and they're very good about keeping things fresh. The food is strictly bar food. Funky neighborhood but worth the visit. Sunset Grill, Brighton Ave, Boston, near Union Sq Allston (~2 miles from downtown, reachable by public transport, "T" line) - Most people consider this the premier beer bar but it's a little too noisy and crowded for my taste. Widest selection of beer, food pretty good. - Good food in large portions, ~300 bottled beers, and 70 taps (including at least one great beer, Old Newbury, that you can't get anywhere else except a small area up on the coast north of Boston). Plough and Stars, Mass Ave (Between Harvard and Central Sq.), Cambridge - Small working class bar with the best pint of Guinness around. Very friendly atmosphere. The lunches are not to be missed - out of this world! OTHER MASSACHUSETTS PLACES Northampton Brewery, Northampton MA - Nice place, the beer range from mundane (Amber, Golden) to some pretty interesting (Holiday, Summer...) offerings. They also serve some guest brews (Harpoon ...). A wonderful beer garden. Amherst Ale House, Amherst MA - beer bar with a vast selection. Spirit Haus, Amherst MA - liquor store, over 300 beers. A bit pricey IMHO. (ie 5.95 for Lindemanns). Latest best NE Beer ... Middlesex Oatmeal Stout (from Burlington MA I think) VERMONT As for my $.02 on the topic, you've got to go to The Vermont Pub and Brewery in Burlington - Greg Noonan's place. Best brewpub I've been to. Brattleboro - Windham Brewey/Latchis Grill (Lathis Hotel)- good beers, good food. A little bit of the yuppie wannabe influence. They are looking for a brewer, bring your resume' if interested. - McNeils Ale House (in the old fire station) - about 12 offerings on tap plus a selection of other guest beers and a bunch of bottled products. This comment from a Boston resident - McNeil's beer, atmosphere, and prices better than Boston BP's, especially better beer. General Vermont List for others Bridgewater - Mountain Brewers, Bridgewater Market Place, Rt. 4 Norwich - Jasper Murdocks Ale House, (IN the Norwich Inn) White River Junction - Catamount Brewery 296-2248 Middlebury - Otter Creek Brewing Co., Exchange St. Burlington - Vermont Pub & Brewery, Corner of St. Paul and College St.'s - Due early summer, Magic Hat Brewing Co., Flynn Av. MAINE >From an earlier HBD post: - Portland - Gritty McDuff's, great Black Fly Stout - Kennebunkport - Federal Jack's, Brown Moose Ale and Blue Fin Stout, very good. Others mentioned, no opinions given: Magic Hat--Kennebunkport?? Sunday River--Bethel Breadloaf Brewery--near breadloaf usa (may not be open yet) Geary's--Location unknown to me, available in stores Bar Harbor--there are rumors of four breweries in this small town. This is from a Boston resident - the best I have been to is found in Camden (better than Boston area BP's), called Sea Dog. They have a very attractive pub and conduct tours on Saturdays (perhaps more often in the summer). RHODE ISLAND - only one brewpub Union Station Brewery in Providence. In Union Station, across street from new Convention Center, off I95. Five of their own brews on tap at all times which vary from a characterless Golden Lager to a decent porter and some good ales. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 03 Jun 94 09:54:37 PST From: huffmand at ccmail.orst.edu Subject: Will trade spruce for chiles Sprucer, To the reader who said they would trade some NM chiles for Sitka spruce tips, please E-mail me - I deleted the digest before I could copy down your address. David Huffman huffmand at ccmail.orst.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 03 Jun 1994 10:39:54 -0700 (PDT) From: BAIER_T at SALT.PLU.EDU Subject: Question on priming with extract I know this is probably a stupid question, but any help would be appreciated. I almost always keg my beer, but we all need to bottle occasionally for friends, competitions, etc. I have been using the standard corn sugar ratios. If I was to use dry malt extract, how much would I use? Typical 'boil with a little water and cool' routine? Thanks in advance. Tom Baier Tacoma, WA BAIER_T at SALT.PLU.EDU Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1441, 06/04/94