HOMEBREW Digest #1505 Fri 19 August 1994

Digest #1504 Digest #1506

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Micro Breweries (FRAN)
  Brewpubs/Micros in the Tucson AZ area ("THOMAS L. STOLFI")
  Mills/Zymurgy ("William F. Cook")
  Raspberry Wheat Recipe (Dodger Posey)
  Richmond, Charlotte Brewpubs? (R. Keith Frank, DCR&D, 409-238-9880)
  Re:  Fermenting in Soda Kegs ("Stephen Lovett")
  Keg Sanitation Slander! (Aidan "Krazy Krausen Kropping Kiwi" Heerdegen)
  Sam Adams and EDME yeast/aluminum->Alzheimer's/Jim Koch bashing (DARREN TYSON)
  brewpubs in Camarillo, Calif area (Dan Lissick djlissick at mmm.com) (djlissick)
  Brewing Belgian Beers (#5): Strong Ales ("Phillip Seitz")
  ATTENTION HUMAN (haltstei)
  Priming with DME (Delta One-Niner)
  Re: Comments on keg fermenting (Dion Hollenbeck)
  Re: Keg Fermenting (Dion Hollenbeck)
  Re: Crushing wheat (Jim Busch)
  Keg lauter tuns (brewing chemist Mitch)
  Christmas Brews (Ed Blonski)
  Stein lids revisited (HEWITT)
  Phil lauter thing (M. Murphy)
  Mashing Equipment (Larry Bristol)
  Re:Going to Germany... (Jason Goldman)
  Re: Keg Fermenting (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 16 Aug 1994 08:21:02 -0700 From: Richard B. Webb <rbw1271 at appenine.ca.boeing.com> Subject: The beginners guide to advanced and all-grain brewing Yet another installment of The beginners guide to advanced and all-grain brewing By Richard B. Webb, the Brews Brother's 1993 Homebrewer of the year part 9 4.1. Early Additions Early hop additions make more bitterness than later additions. Using more hops makes for more bitterness than using fewer hops. And using more bitter hops makes for more bitterness than less bitter hops. Hopefully this is obvious to you. What you may not know is that winding up with 6 gallons of wort leaves your beer almost 17% less bitter than you would have if you gotten the 5 gallons that you planned for. (This is also true of the color of the beer, but that's not my concern here.) This just goes to show how important it is to not only accurately design your beer, but also how important it is to keep to that plan. 4.2. Late Additions Hops that are added late to the boil do not complete the chemical changes necessary to extract all of the hop resins available to the kettle. Instead, the essential oils that are boiled away in long boils remain to contribute to hop flavor and aroma. Some hops are well known for their superior taste and aroma, while others are more suitable for long boil bittering. Try to match the hops to the style that you're trying to create. 5. Yeast 5.1. Ale Yeast Ale yeasts are happiest at or near room temperature. Fermentation temperatures below 55 degrees Fahrenheit will pretty much shut down most ale yeast strains. Temperatures higher than 70 degrees for any yeast will encourage alcohols with higher molecular weight which will affect the taste of your beer. These alcohols will also increase the severity of your hangover if you over-indulge. There are some styles which benefit from these alcohols, and are therefore more suitable for warm weather brewing. These styles include: Barley wines/strong ales, Belgian ales (including Lambic, Gueuze, and Trappist ales), Imperial Stouts, Strong Porter, Brown ales, and some fruit beers. Wyeast #1056, the Chico/American ale yeast is a low producer of off flavors at higher temperatures, so can be used where other yeast strains cannot. 5.2. Lager Yeast The Wyeast lager yeast varieties have a reputation for not finishing their kraeusen very quickly. What is true is that successive generations of yeast will become better adapted to the environment in which they are raised. Saving your yeast can be a good way to save money and keep the best characteristics of the yeast that you want. As is the case whenever you go about dealing with yeast, sterilization must be a way of life. To wash the yeast, you must have on hand some very cool pre-boiled water. (Whenever I boil bottle caps prior to bottling, I always save the water, cooling it before I need to wash yeast.) After siphoning the fermented wort to either a conditioning container or secondary fermentation container, pour some of the sediment from the bottom of the carboy into a sterile jar with a lid. Pour enough of the cool water into the jar to thoroughly dilute the sediment. Secure the lid on the jar, swirl the contents of the jar thoroughly, and place in the refrigerator until you are ready to deal with it again (typically after bottling). The heavier particles of sediment, such as hop bits and coagulated protein, will settle to the bottom of the jar, while the lighter yeast bits will remain suspended in the water. I pour this water into a clean bottle and cap it, storing the yeast in the refrigerator. To re-use this yeast, allow the bottle to warm to the same temperature as the wort that you are pitching into. Remove the cap, and sterilize the lip of the bottle with flame. Simply stir up the yeast in the bottle and pour the contents into the fresh beer wort. Subsequent generations of yeast should be better adapted to the conditions in which they are raised. If you do this with enough yeast strains, you will never lack for a big dose of just the right yeast strain for the beer style that you're trying to match. 5.3. Other Yeast like beasties There are other critters that want to live in your beer. Some of these beasties are wanted, most are not. To ensure that the only things in your beer are the things that you want there, try to develop a procedure for sanitization that will keep your equipment clean. I store my tubes, hoses, funnels, and other suitable equipment in a plastic (former) fermentation container that has a draining valve attached to the bottom. This stuff floats and soaks in a bleach solution, which I can also drain into carboys or conditioning buckets through use of the draining valve. When I'm through with the solution, I just pour it back into the storage container where it waits until the next time I need something sterilized. I keep smaller bits of equipment, such as airlock parts and my bottling siphon hose, in a smaller bucket, also with the same bleach solution. I have never had much of a problem with contamination, and I don't intend to start soon. Concerning those other beasties. For the most part, bacteria cannot survive in beer. The alcohol and low pH tend to inhibit most types of unwanted critters that live around the home. However, we must be on constant guard for those type of bacteria that thrive in such an environment, especially those that can establish beach heads in your wort before fermentation has begun. Anything that comes in contact with the cool, unfermented wort must be sterile. The most effective way to maintain sterility is to boil under pressure. Failing that, boil wort chillers and spoons in the hot liquor when you can. Other items of equipment may be better served by chemical sterilizers. Bleach is effective, but must be thoroughly rinsed off. Otherwise it will lead to detectable off flavors. Iodine in weak solution doesn't require rinsing, and is easier on your carpet if you are accident prone. Rich Webb Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 1994 08:21:10 -0700 From: Richard B. Webb <rbw1271 at appenine.ca.boeing.com> Subject: The beginners guide to advanced and all-grain brewing Yet another installment of The beginners guide to advanced and all-grain brewing By Richard B. Webb, the Brews Brother's 1993 Homebrewer of the year part 10 6. Mystery Ingredients Before hops were popularized in beer making, the sweetness of the malt was balanced by what was called "gruit". This tended to be a trade secret of the brewer, and was often grown right outside in the garden. If you have a creative bent, especially if you're also a prolific gardener, don't be afraid to try different herbs for bittering purposes. If you don't trust yourself, try small batches with new experiments. Maybe you don't want 5 gallons of hot chilli flavored beer, or maybe you don't have enough onions or garlic to flavor a large batch. And do you really like oregano that much? If I'm going to leave you with one thought, let it be this. Try to use your enthusiasm for this hobby as a springboard to bigger and better things. And don't be afraid to do something really stupid. It's the only way you're ever going to learn anything! Well, that's it for this guide. Thanks for those of you who have had the patience to tough it out with me. And I apologize to those of you who have wrung your necks at the bad line formatting. Hopefully this will be enough of an improvement for you. Good luck in your brewing endeavors! Rich Webb Return to table of contents
Date: 16 Aug 1994 11:51:47 EST5EDT From: FRAN at hoffman.mgen.pitt.edu Subject: Micro Breweries I am driving from Alaska to Boston and would like to visit as many microbreweries along the way as possible (eg Vancouver, Seattle etc). Is there an internet source for a listing of breweries by geographical region or are there various books available? I would appreciate some help on where to look for such information. Direct e-mail is best for me. Thanks, fran at hoffman.mgen.pitt.edu Return to table of contents
Date: 16 Aug 1994 10:02:10 GMT From: "THOMAS L. STOLFI" <OBCTS at CWEMAIL.CECO.COM> Subject: Brewpubs/Micros in the Tucson AZ area If anyone know of any Brewpubs/Micros in the Tucson area please email me directly at OBCTS at CWEMAIL.CECO.COM . Thanks in advance. Tom Stolfi OBCTS at CWEMAIL.CECO.COM Return to table of contents
Date: 16 Aug 94 13:37:45 EDT From: "William F. Cook" <71533.2750 at compuserve.com> Subject: Mills/Zymurgy I can't believe I'm saying this (and I *really* can't believe I'm getting in the middle of the never-ending mill war), but I have to agree with Jack about the recent Zymurgy article on Mills. Great pains were quite obviously taken to avoid saying anything critical about *any* of the products, lest they offend potential advertisers. The current editorial staff is not providing a useful service to their readers. What I wanted to see was a real review, not an advertisement for several products in the guise of an article. I own or have owned three mills: A Corona, a PhilMill, and an adjustable MaltMill from JSP (most recent purchase). I have seen the Glatt mills and I'm sure they are a fine product if you can get one, plastic gears notwithstanding. For my money, the Maltmill is the best of the three I've owned, though I'm annoyed at having to pay for 10-inch rollers when the hopper makes the effective length only about 4 inches (I assume it would be too difficult to turn the thing if the entire length was used). The PhilMill provides a perfectly good crush, but has an horrible mount and lousy throughput - it's probably a good buy for the money. The Corona is difficult to get a good crush out of, but I can't show any scientific data to indicate that my extraction rates have gone one way or the other. For me, it came down to finding a mill with high throughput (and the JSP is second to none in that category) which I felt comfortable about motorizing. For somebody else, the dollar figure might be more important, and I suppose that if I had any sense it would be more important for me, too, but no price is too high for a really good homebrew toy :-). It's just a shame that I had to go through three mills to find one that was satisfactory for *my* purposes. Unfortunately, Zymurgy has done nothing to prevent others from having the same problems. Just MNSHO, send flames to /dev/null Bill Cook HydroComp, Inc. Team Dennis Conner Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 1994 13:19:45 -0700 (PDT) From: Dodger Posey <dodger at quack.kfu.com> Subject: Raspberry Wheat Recipe Just thought I'd share this recipe I brewed recently that drew many compliments. The amount of fruit added was a geuss, and I ignored advice to sanitize in any way the fruit addition cuz I'm just that way. JazzBerry Juice 6.6# Alexanders Unhopped Wheat LME (60/40) 1# Malted Wheat 1 oz. Mt.Hood Hop Pellets (boil) 5.5 AA 1 oz. Hallertauer Hersbrucker Plugs (at 45 min) 4.6 AA 1/2 tsp Gypsum (rehydrated 20 min.) in boil 1/2 tsp Irish Moss (rehydrated 20 min.) last 20 min. of boil 1 pkg Wyeast Bavarian Wheat Liquid Yeast (in starter) 4.5 # Rasperries, frozen, thawed, strained (48 oz of juice) 5/8 c. Bottling Sugar to prime Place wheat malt in bag, in cold 2.5 g water in pot, bring to 160 deg. and hold i hour. Add LME, bring to boil. Add boil hops and gypsum. at 40 min add Irish moss, at 45 min add HH hops. At 1 hour, cool pot in water bath (tub) till 70 deg., about 40 min. Strain into carboy holding 2 gal preboiled, cooled, filtered water. Aerate Fully. Pitch yeast starter, aerate again. My ferment started at 6 hours. Rack to secondary after 5 days on top of the juice from the raspberries. I bottled at 23 days. The raspberries were from Trader Joe's. Listed as 100% fruit, no additives or preservatives. Metal strainer with soup ladel to press. I was horrified when I did the secondary on top of the juice. I was sure I ruined the batch, it looked horribly pink. After 2 weeks in the bottle it was "OK", after 4 it was great, and I'm waiting to see if it gets better or worse. LOTS of raspberry FLAVOR, excellent carbonation, tastes great and most refreshing. Hope you like it. Comments welcome regarding procedure and process. OG 1.051 FG 1.010 dodger posey dodger at quack.kfu.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 1994 08:12:52 -0500 From: keithfrank at dow.com (R. Keith Frank, DCR&D, 409-238-9880) Subject: Richmond, Charlotte Brewpubs? I'm travelling to Richmond, VA and Charlotte, NC starting on Monday, Aug. 22 and would like information and opinions on area brewpubs and regionally bottled micros. Private or post. Thanks, Bruce DeBolt c/o keithfrank at dow.com Return to table of contents
Date: 16 Aug 1994 14:04:15 U From: "Stephen Lovett" <stephen_lovett at qm.claris.com> Subject: Re: Fermenting in Soda Kegs Subject: RE> Fermenting in Soda Kegs I'd like to thank this agust body for all the responses on fermenting in corny kegs. I have received a large number of informative replies, and many good ideas. I was also pointed to several magazine articles and books for additional information. The shear volume of information precludes posting an adequate summary to the digest, so I thought that I'd put together a first draft of a fermenting in cory kegs FAQ over the next couple of weeks, and then ftp it to the sierra server. As I have not personally used any of the systems until this time, I'm not in a position to intelligently comment on the relative merits of the many divergent approaches I've received. Thus the first draft will be nothing more than a compilation of information received, with the addition of my personal research. At a later date, (and after much home brew consumption <grin>) I'll update it with more detailed comparisons between the approaches. Also I'd like to thank Phillip Seitz for his series on Belgian beers, and (sorry I don't have your name handy) the fellow who has been posting the mini-book on brewing practices to the digest. It is the dissemination of this kind of in depth information that makes reading the HBD well worth the occasional flame war. Best of Brewing, Stephen Lovett Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 94 13:05:03 EST From: Aidan "Krazy Krausen Kropping Kiwi" Heerdegen <aidan at rschp2.anu.edu.au> Subject: Keg Sanitation Slander! Full-Name: Aidan "Krazy Krausen Kropping Kiwi" Heerdegen SLANDER!!!! John Palmer wrote a whole lot of good stuff about keg sanitation, but did make a small boo-boo when he said: | Aiden's post on not using Chlorine Bleach with stainless steel ^^^^^ | kegs was not Wrong, but it can be used safely if the parameters | are understood. Ummmm ... did you mean me (Aidan)? In fact it was Adrien Glauser <Adrien_Glauser at tvo.org> who was the poster ... just thought I would clear that up. Thanks for the info John, very worthwhile. I have sankey kegs, they are aluminium (aluminum for the element impaired) on the outside, but sort of look like stainless on the inside .. is this common? Spot ya Aidan - -- Aidan Heerdegen e-mail: aidan at rschp2.anu.edu.au Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 1994 01:00:49 -0600 (CST) From: DARREN TYSON <TYSONDR at SLUVCA.SLU.EDU> Subject: Sam Adams and EDME yeast/aluminum->Alzheimer's/Jim Koch bashing Hello fellow homebrewers, Yeast in Sam(TM) Adams(TM): I recently mentioned that I was attempting to isolate yeast from commercial brews. Someone has made me aware that this would most likely be futile with respect to bottled beers as most are pateurized as well as filtered, thereby killing and removing the yeast. This same source, however, informed me that Samuel(TM) Adams(TM) that has been kegged is not pasteurized and likely contains active yeast. I'll be packing a test tube next time I head out to the bars! EDME dry yeast: My two cents-- I used this yeast on my last batch, but first I made a starter. The fermentation began within hours and slowed to <1 bubble in the airlock per 10 minutes within 36 hours, but I still had a small amount of postive pressure in my airlock for almost a week. I have since bottled and after two weeks it is well-carbonated and has a nice finish. I haven't noticed any contamination that Algis R Korzonas suggested may be found in the packages. I think the high pitch rate may have prevented any possible contamination. So to Seth (and others), if you haven't been making a starter, you might want to start. Aluminum pots and Alzheimer's: For my birthday I have received a new 5-gallon aluminum pot for boiling my wort. After reading posts on HBD about a possible link between aluminum and Alzheimer's I got ta thinkin' and a-worryin'. Does anyone have references to the above claims? Should I try to return my aluminum pot and find an enamel-coated stainless steel pot? I don't want to return the pot if the above claims are unfounded (especially since I want to start a new batch soon!), but if the amount of aluminum that leeches into my wort is significant _and_ can cause health problems I don't want to risk it. Please help me put my fears to rest. Jim Koch bashing: Recently and often I've seen a lot of Jim Koch bashing on the HBD. I admit to a little myself with the (TM) slams. But I would like to point out that while Jim Koch may not be the nicest man when it comes to business and marketing, he DOES do it well. I've been told that not only is Samuel Adams trademarked, but just about every name of historical significance in the United States has been trademarked for the use of beer advertising by Boston Beer Co.! Washington (TM), Jefferson(TM), etc. While this may seem to be drastic and ridiculous, it is also a pretty sound marketing strategy. What we view as excessive and ludicrous is probably preventing other companies from capitalizing on name association. On a different note, Boston Beer Co. is forcing many of the gigabreweries (AB, Miller, Coors) to make alternative styles of beer to satisfy the growing number of beer drinkers who have realized that American Light Lager is not the only kind of beer. I for one am thankful for the efforts of JK to force "beer-enlightenment" on the masses through his hard-ball marketing, even though I DO think some of it is extreme. The Boston Beer Co. is quite a successful business, and I can't fault JK for trying to make more money! And they make some pretty good beer to boot! May all your beer be homebrewed, Darren tysondr at sluvca.slu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 1994 07:08:44 -0500 From: djlissick at mmm.com Subject: brewpubs in Camarillo, Calif area (Dan Lissick djlissick at mmm.com) My friend Doug Lapoint is moving to Camarillo in a few weeks and would appreciate any information on brewpubs and brew supply stores in the area (Ventura, Oxnard, Camarillo, Thousand Oaks). TAI Post or Private e-mail. Dan Lissick djlissick at mmm.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 94 09:14:55 -0400 From: "Phillip Seitz" <p00644 at psilink.com> Subject: Brewing Belgian Beers (#5): Strong Ales Brewing Belgian Beers (#5): Strong ales Description: 1.062-1.120, 6-12% ABV, 16-30 IBU, 3.5-20 SRM Pale to dark brown. Low hop bitterness and aroma ok, should blend with other flavors. Medium to high esters in flavor and aroma. Phenols ok. Often highly aromatic. Spices or orange ok. Strength evident, but alchohol flavor subdued or absent. Medium to full body, sometimes with a high terminal gravity. Medium to high carbonation. No roasted flavors or diacetyl. Belgian strong ale recipes are usually formulated to show off yeast character, with all other ingredients playing a supporting role. The flavor may be subtly complex, but should not be crowded. Body is comparatively light for beers of this strength, due to use of brewing adjuncts or of pilsner malt only. High carbonation also helps; these beers should feel like mousse on the palate and have an impressive head. The best examples may be noticeably strong but still have no alchohol flavor. Flemish examples tend toward higher terminal gravities (1.025-1.050), while Walloon versions are usually more attenuated. Due to the vagueries of AHA style categories, Trappist strong ale clones (Chimay, etc.) should be submitted in this category. Despite what Michael Jackson says, Saisons are strong ales and should also be submitted to contests in this category. Brewing method: Yeast choice is absolutely crucial, as the yeast will provide the foundation flavors for the beer and all other ingredients should be added to support or accentuate them. As with all beers of this strength, high pitching rates and agressive aeration are necessary. Fermentation temperatures should be cool (below 65F) to avoid creation of headache-causing fusels. Infusion or step mashing techniques are standard procedure. Most commercial versions use pilsner malt as a base, but many also use substantial quantities of sugar or flaked corn as an adjunct. Caramel, Munich and toasted malts are often used in small quantities; roasted malts are sometimes used in very small amounts for coloring only. All classic hop varieties are common, but are used in small and judicious quantities. Sugars are added in the kettle, as are spices. Many spices have delicate aromas and should be boiled for just a few minutes, if at all. Common choices are bitter or sweet orange peel, coriander, vanilla, and anise. Extract brewers will do fine in this category. Start with pale extract, adding judicious quantities of caramel malts and sugar (1-2 pounds) to the kettle. The secret is to choose the right yeast and to keep your ferment as clean as possible. Priming should be about 7/8 (125 grams) for five gallons. Addition of fresh yeast at bottling should assist with carbonation; a 1-pint starter is sufficient. Common Problems: 1) Solvent & banana flavors. Fermentation at excessive temperature, poor yeast health, or both. Particularly a problem with people using Wyeast Belgian or Chimay yeasts at temps above 62F. 2) Wrong type of orange. Sunkist type orange should not be substituted for bitter or sweet orange. 3) Insufficient carbonation. Use more priming sugar, or add fresh yeast when bottling. Commerical examples: Corsendonk blond (8% ABV), Corsendonk brown (8% ABV), Saison DuPont (6.5% ABV), Gouden Carolus (7% ABV), Scaldis (12% ABV), Duvel (8.5% ABV), Brigand (9% ABV), Oerbier (7.5% ABV), Arabier (8% ABV), Bos Keun (7% ABV), Stille Nacht (8% ABV), Pauwel Kwak (8% ABV), Celis Grand Cru, Mateen (9% ABV) Sample recipe: Jeff Frane's Strong Ale GUMMITCH at TELEPORT.COM DeWolf-Cosyns pilsner malt 9 pounds DeWolf-Cosyns aromatic malt 0.6 pounds DeWolf-Cosyns caramunich 1 pound Flaked maize 1 pound Light candy sugar 1.5 pounds BC Goldings 1 oz boiled for 15 mins Mt Hood 1 oz boiled for 15 minutes Saaz 0.25 oz boiled for 60 minutes Made 5.75 gallons at 1.062 Mash in the malts (not the maize) at 98F in 3.5 gallons water and adjust pH. Raise to 120F and hold for 30 minutes. Raise to 153, add maize, and hold until conversion (about 45 minutes). Raise to 175 for 15 minutes for mashout. Add sugar to kettle and boil for 90 minutes. At 1/2 tablespoon rehydrated Irish moss to boil for 75 minutes. Ferment with Wyeast White, prime with 1 cup corn sugar. [Phil's note: This produced the best and most authentic Belgian-style homebrew I've tasted. This is the one to beat!] Return to table of contents
Date: 17 Aug 1994 10:03:42 EST From: haltstei <HALTSTEI at UMAB.UMD.EDU> Subject: ATTENTION HUMAN ATTENTION, please add my name to your e-mail list. Thanks Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 1994 00:01:00 +0930 (CST) From: zoz at cs.adelaide.edu.au (Delta One-Niner) Subject: Priming with DME - -- ______ _____________ ______________________ ______ /\####/\ / / / / /\####/\ / \##/ \ /_______ / / _ ______ / / \##/ \ /____\/____\ / / / / \ \ / / /____\/____\ \####/\####/ / /____\ \_/ / / /_______ \####/\####/ \##/ \##/ / / / / \##/ \##/ \/____\/ /_____________________/ /____________/ \/____\/ zoz at cs.adelaide.edu.au If you see a blind man, run up and kick him. Why should you be kinder than God? -- Old Iranian Proverb Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 94 08:16:10 PDT From: hollen at megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck) Subject: Re: Comments on keg fermenting Nice addition to the keg-fermenting treatise. I plan to add them to stuff I send out to people. See Ya, tonite. dion Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 94 08:21:54 PDT From: hollen at megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck) Subject: Re: Keg Fermenting >>>>> "Al" == Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583 <korz at iepubj.att.com> writes: Al> Just four words of advice to those contemplating fermenting in Al> Cornelius Kegs: "beware of clogged blowoff." By using a Al> poppetless valvebody as Dion suggests, you are hoping that the Al> small hole (about 1/4" or so) in the top of the valve body will Al> not clog with hop bits. This can be a very messy (and even Al> dangerous -- if you don't have a overpressure relief valve in the Al> lid as some older kegs don't) proposition. Based on my own Al> experience with clogged blowoff tubes on glass fermenters it can Al> happen quite easily and is virtually guaranteed if you try to Al> ferment fruit. Sorry to disagree, but you do not mention that you have ever fermented in keg, merely used blowoff tube in glass carboys. A soda keg is rated safely at 130 psi. I guarantee you that if any hop bits got stuck in a poppet hole, they would be blown out forcefully loooooong before the safety margin of the keg was reached. Also, where are those hop bits coming from? With proper techniques in your brewing pot, there should never be any whole hops or whole hop bits in the fermenter. I certainly don't get any in mine. If you are talking about the fine particles with hop pellets, I can buy them getting into the fermenter, but cannot imagine them ever clogging the blowoff tube. Again, will be blown out long before safety margin is reached. Dion Hollenbeck (619)675-4000x2814 Email: hollen at megatek.com Staff Software Engineer Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 1994 11:34:09 -0400 (EDT) From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> Subject: Re: Crushing wheat Anton writes: > Subject: mash #29 > encouraging. Here's what I learned about making wheat beer. > > The grain bill called for 70 % wheat and 30% pale malt. I tried several > settings on my adjustable Maltmill but found that the setting for the best > wheat crush was the same as the setting for the best barley crush (don't > ya just hate it when Jack is right :-). Wheat is harder and crushing it > requires more arm or horse power, as the case may be. Having a home brew > near by to replace fluids lost due to the sweat generated by cranking the > mill is recommended :-). > This is not what I have found. Wheat malt, be it Gambrinus or DeWolf/Cosyns in my adjustable MM crushes better when I adjust the rollers to be closer than the default position. With other malts, I tend to use the default position, but for wheat, I turn it closer. Maybe I should ask "what is a better crush"? Id also like to point out that while a 70/30 ratio is commendable, for a first time weizen brewer, 60/40 may make life a bit easier. Also, dont neglect the importance of protein rests in weizens. Good brewing, Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 1994 10:26:00 -0500 (CDT) From: gellym at aviion.persoft.com (brewing chemist Mitch) Subject: Keg lauter tuns In HBD 1503, George Temple asks: > Has anyone posted directions on modifying a keg into a > brew kettle? I've got an AB-Bud keg (with the metal > handles up top, no rubberized plastic on top or bottom) > and would like to Sawzall the top dome out of it and > add a drain/false bottom to it. > > Any suggestions? Sure. If you're just talking about making one into a lauter-tun, don't cut the top off! Remove the piece on the top where the tap attaches to (whatever the hell it's called), and cut the _bottom_ off of the barrel. Turn it over, and now you have a nice concave bottom with a drain in the middle. Weld an elbow piece to the drain on the outside of the keg, add a valve to that and all you will need after that is a false bottom. Later, Mitch - -- | - Mitch Gelly - | Zack Norman | | software QA specialist, systems administrator, zymurgist, | is | | AHA/HWBTA beer judge, & president of the Madison Homebrewers | Sammy in | | - gellym at aviion.persoft.com - gelly at persoft.com - | Chief Zabu | Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 94 10:35:55 CDT From: Ed Blonski <S851001 at UMSLVMA.UMSL.EDU> Subject: Christmas Brews Greetings fellow brewers! I'm in the Christmas spirit now! My thanks to all who replied to my previous post asking for formulas. I decided to go with a variation of Papazian's "Holiday Cheer" formula in TNCJOHB. Instead of ginger root (I hate ginger - Mary Ann was more my style) I went with a couple of tsps of mint. I just racked into my secondary fermenter and it's got a nicetaste to it, with a hint of mint aroma that I was looking for. I was curious about the OG reading. It was a 1.04, not what the book was looking for (1.054 - 1.060). Maybe it was the temp. I'm still not up on the conversion tables yet (I didn't get past freshman college math). It was 76 degrees in my basement the day I started. The OG reading was 1.040 and I think I'm supposed to add .003 to it? Anyone help me on this? E-mail is fine. Later! (jingle bells, jingle bells, drinking all the way!) +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ better people - better food - better beer Why move around the world when Eden was so near? Ed Blonski Brewing in the Town that Bud built. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 1994 11:47 EDT From: HEWITT at arcges.arceng.com Subject: Stein lids revisited I recently spent a week with three German business associates and took the opportunity to ask about the infamous "why do steins have lids" debate. One amusing response went something like-- When Prussians came to Bavaria, they would enter the biergarten and ask for lemonade. The bartenders became upset that they didn't order beer and slammed the lemonade down on the table. Nearby Bavarians were forced to cover their mugs with their hands to avoid getting lemonade in their beer, thus the lid was conceived. Pat Hewitt, Atlantic Research Corp. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 1994 08:53:09 +0000 From: mmurphy at efn.org (M. Murphy) Subject: Phil lauter thing Although I've been brewing all-grain for five batches with makeshift equipment, today was my first with an honest to goodness American picnic cooler, and a phil (spinny) sparger. Needles to say the kitchen was a mess. The crux of this biscuit is that I was wondering if anyone out there has fitted a Phil lautering device into a five gallon picnic cooler. I ask only because when I called up Listeman Manufacuring to ask a couple questions, the guy I spoke with says that he *transfers* his grain from his picnic cooler mash tun into a lauter tun. Why? Why not fit a phil lauter device into the cooler? Any reason? BTW, I think that all of the phil stuff I own are good products and have eased my brewing burden. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 94 10:44:37 CDT From: Larry Bristol <LBRISTOL at SYSUBMC.BMC.COM> Subject: Mashing Equipment Mark Montminy wrote: > My question, that I have grappled with since first beginning > to consider all-grain is which type of mash system. I know this > has been hashed and re-hashed but I never saw it presented like: > "I perfer this system because..." and "My thingy(tm) is better > than his because..." I am leaning toward the 10 gal gott but > wonder about all the hype regarding wierd chemicals leaching out > under the conditions (hot) that the plastic was not intended to > take. The mail order place that I get my stuff(tm) has a system > like phil's but all SS (read$$). I like the idea of a round > design because I like the looks of phil's sparger. I haven't > read any negative posts about it and the gentle action seems to > be just the thing. Private or post@ your descretion. Mark (and others) this is also MY first article to the digest so I also request gentleness. I figured I would answer with my opinions because I recently went through the same type of process. The good news is that all-grain brewing is NOT as difficult as some would make it out to be, and there is a lot of good and relatively inexpensive equipment out there for we homebrewers. I have seen a lot of material here and elsewhere concerning using a 10 gallon gott cooler as a mash tun. I have seen nothing negative, and do not believe you have anything to worry about regarding leaching of any chemicals. My understanding is that there is no danger of this type from the use of any food grade plastics. I have seen claims that the inside liner of a Gott will withstand the high temperatures without warping, melting, or any other problems. I happened to have one of those steel Igloo 10 gallon water coolers with a food grade platic liner. By replacing the push button spicket with a plastic faucet thingy(tm) from my local homebrew supply shop, I made a really swell mash/lauter tun! I use one of those Phil's false bottom gadgets and that Phil's sparger with the rotating sprinkler. It seems to me that this makes a very efficient system. Somewhere I have gotten the idea that 75% efficiency is "average", but my actual starting gravities have been consistently higher than those expectations computed using this factor. Frankly, I attribute this to the sparger; the gentle and very consistent washing it generates seems to discourage all of the problems (channelling, clogging, and so forth) that seem to plague this process. Naturally, I am not affiliated with Phil's outfit in any way. There are bound to be other folks that have good systems also, but count me as a very satisfied customer that highly recommends Phil's false bottom and sparger. - ------------------------------------------------------------ Larry Bristol | A true Hitchhiker SYSUBMC.BMC.COM | always knows where (713)274-7802 | his towel is. - ------------------------------------------------------------ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 94 10:56:10 MDT From: Jason Goldman <jason at bluestar.cnd.hp.com> Subject: Re:Going to Germany... I tried to reply, but my mail bounced. In answer to a question about beer in Germainy... If your friend has time, I highly recommend making the trip Bamberg and trying the rauchbier. I never thought I liked smoked beer until I went there. Spezial and Schlenkerla are my favorites. Tuebingen, a university town, has a nice brew pub (the Nekar Mueller). They had a very nice Hefe Weizen. Munich is excellent, of course. In that area, I don't think that you can go wrong. My favorite beers, some of which I brought back were: Schneider Weisse (Munich) Spezial Rauchbier (Bamberg) Schlenkerla Rauchbier (Bamberg) Rauchenfels Steinbier (Neuestadt bei Coburg) Spaten, esp. Pils (Munich) Loewenbrau, esp, Weizen (Munich) Hofbrau Haus, esp. Maibock--a little late, now, though (Munich) Jason jason at bluestar.cnd.hp.com Beer is...good. Return to table of contents
Date: 17 Aug 94 17:09:00 GMT From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: Re: Keg Fermenting Dion writes in response to my warnings about clogged blowoff on a Cornelius keg fermenter: >Sorry to disagree, but you do not mention that you have ever fermented >in keg, merely used blowoff tube in glass carboys. You are correct that I have not fermented in a keg, but this does not mean that I cannot extrapolate my experiences with glass carboys to kegs. >A soda keg is >rated safely at 130 psi. I guarantee you that if any hop bits got >stuck in a poppet hole, they would be blown out forcefully loooooong >before the safety margin of the keg was reached. The keg would not have to explode to injure. I'm not so sure that a clogged blowoff would clear itself and what if someone tried to remove a clogged valve body with 100 psi in the keg? Yes, I know, release the pressure first, but what if there is no overpressure valve in the lid? (remeber my original post mentioned the lack of an overpressure valve?) >Also, where are those hop bits coming from? With proper techniques in >your brewing pot, there should never be any whole hops or whole hop >bits in the fermenter. I certainly don't get any in mine. If you are >talking about the fine particles with hop pellets, I can buy them >getting into the fermenter, but cannot imagine them ever clogging the >blowoff tube. Again, will be blown out long before safety margin is >reached. You know the brown ring that lines oversized fermenters, just above the liquid level? That's made up of hop bits and resins and that's what clogs small blowoff hoses in non-fruit beers. With fruit beers, I'm sure you agree with me. Excluding the safety issue, there is the issue of gushing. I've had blowoff hoses clog: both times the result was only loss of beer and a mess to clean up, thank God. The first time was with a 1/4" ID blowoff tube on a Brown Ale. When the stopper blew, 3 gallons of beer gushed out of the top of the carboy and painted the *ceiling* a nice shade of tan. This despite two inverted black plastic garbage bags over the carboy. (BTW, my tax returns were on the table next to the carboy... yuk!) The second time was with a 1/2" ID blowoff tube on a fruit beer. When the stopper blew this time, only a gallon of beer was lost, but a good pound of raspberry pulp was decorating the walls and ceiling. Now I use a 1" ID blowoff tube and sleep much better. Even if the clog was cleared at, say 30 psi, and the blowoff tube stayed in place, the resulting gushing would still mean a loss of significant beer. I'm not just trying to knock you methods, rather I'm trying to relay my experiences and save some brewers from making the same mistakes I've made. One more word of caution regarding using Cornelius kegs to ferment. Standing up, they are tall and narrow, which, according to George Fix and Jean DeKlerck, is a poor geometry for a fermenter. Some yeasts do very poorly in this fermenter geometry and of course yeast settling takes 50% longer since the yeast has 50% more distance to travel as in a carboy. I really sound like I'm bashing your methods. I don't mean to be so negative, but if someone is contemplating Cornelius kegs for fermenters, they should know the minuses as well as the pluses. Al. Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1505, 08/19/94