HOMEBREW Digest #1544 Wed 05 October 1994

Digest #1543 Digest #1545

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  CO2 Point (A.J. deLange)
  Pumpkin Ale Help (Geoff_Scott)
  Lauter Tun Design (Terry Terfinko)
  yeast head contact with air is good? (Chris Lyons)
  Re: Raspberry Beer (Ectoplasm)
  Different dry yeasts give different results also ... (Chris Lyons)
  "Half" batches (Tim Buck)
  Re: Stout Bout:  The Truth (Jason Goldman)
  Re: AHA Homebrew Comps. (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  Tripple "Bock", NOT! (Jim Busch)
  Open fermenters (Bob Jones)
  High F.G., cider, and Scotland (/R=HERLVX/R=AM/U=KLIGERMAN/FFN=KLIGERMAN/)
  Caramel in beer (Steven Lichtenberg)
  First Year / Caramel / Long Postings (npyle)
  Shiner Beer song ("Theodore B. Samsel, Comp Spec, Richmond, VA ")
  RE: Wort O2 (Dion Hollenbeck)
  Update on Lead Removal ("Palmer.John")
  Club only competitions ("Lee A. Menegoni")
  INBOX Message (See Below) (Mailer.MC1) (COYOTE)
  Juicer/ Contest Entries- Mail/ Zymurgy articles/ Addr. at end! (COYOTE)
  Old Peculiar (Chuck E. Mryglot)
  Lagering (Derek Bowen)
  rate of DMS production... (Robert F. Dougherty)
  maple syrup (Jim Emery)
  Wheat malt extract? (uswlsrap)
  Brewing Kettles (CJMURTAUGH)
  OOdles of bottles (Marc Hugentobler)
  Vitamin C as antioxidant (George Danz x632)
  Memphis (djfitzg)
  Stout Bout:  The Last, I Hope (Martin Lodahl)
  Stout Bout Apologies (David Allison 225-5764)
  Mashout (Andrew Patti)

****************************************************************** * NEW POLICY NOTE: Due to the incredible volume of bouncing mail, * I am going to have to start removing addresses from the list * that cause ongoing problems. In particular, if your mailbox * is full or your account over quota, and this results in bounced * mail, your address will be removed from the list after a few days. * * If you use a 'vacation' program, please be sure that it only * sends a automated reply to homebrew-request *once*. If I get * more than one, then I'll delete your address from the list. ****************************************************************** Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), then you MUST unsubscribe the same way! If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. FAQs, archives and other files are available via anonymous ftp from sierra.stanford.edu. (Those without ftp access may retrieve files via mail from listserv at sierra.stanford.edu. Send HELP as the body of a message to that address to receive listserver instructions.) Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 3 Oct 94 20:25:04 est From: A.J._deLange at csgi.com (A.J. deLange) Subject: CO2 Point COYOTE wrote >RE: CO2 life- just a reminder for ya'll: The regulator reading on a >full >CO2 tank will read whatever it reads untill all the LIQUID CO2 is >used up, >THEN the pressure starts to drop. >POINT: CO2 is stored in the pressurized tank as a liquid. >It emerges as a gas. The "point" is valid as long as the temperature of the contents of the cylinder is below the critical temperature (87.9 F). Above that temperature the contents are gas and the pressure gauge reading is proportional to the quantity remaining (P = nRT/V). Keep this in mind for hot summer days. I do _not_ recommend heating up your gas bottles to see how much is left. Better to weigh them. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 03 Oct 1994 17:57:13 EST From: Geoff_Scott at mail.magic.ca Subject: Pumpkin Ale Help Hi - I'm looking for some pumpkin ale help. It will be a full mash with cooked pumpkin and pumpkin pie spices. 1. Any recommendations on the maximum pumpkin to grist ratio? (I will be using two row) 2. There seem to be a few options for adding spices: - in the boil - at the end of the boil - In the primary / secondary - make a tea and add this to the keg 3. How much spice? 4. Cinnamon? Allspice? Nutmeg? Any input would be appreciated. regards, Geoff_Scott at magic.ca or gscott at io.org Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 94 7:23:03 EDT From: terfintt at ttown.apci.com (Terry Terfinko) Subject: Lauter Tun Design I am building a new SS lauter tun and have been considering ways to heat the unit with an externally mounted electric unit. I first thought about mounting an element from an electric range on the bottom of the tun, but the curved bottom of a sankey keg does not make this feasible. What would work better is a heat cable wrapped around the keg. This would supply a more uniform heat. I am trying to find a source for a 110 or 220v resistance heat cable. I was told that the heat cables for preventing freezing pipes would not get hot enough. I would be interested in hearing from anyone who has tried this idea or knows if a heat cable flexible enough to wrap around a keg is available. Terry Terfinko - terfintt at ttown.apci.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 94 08:42:08 EDT From: Chris Lyons <Chris.Lyons at analog.com> Subject: yeast head contact with air is good? In yesterday's HBD Brian Gowland states: > ... It can actually be detrimental to deprive the yeast > head of contact with air. ... Could anyone please explain why their is a benefit to having the yeast head exposed to air? Curious brewers want to know. Regards, Chris Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 1994 22:17:48 +0930 (CST) From: zoz at cs.adelaide.edu.au (Ectoplasm) Subject: Re: Raspberry Beer Mike Asks: |> I made a raspberry beer last year. It was basically a belgian ale with 8 |> pounds of raspberries added at the secondary. The beer came out somewhat |> sour/bitter from the raspberries with no residual sugar left to balance it |> out. Have others had more success with raspberries? I just cracked my raspberry wheat beer that I bottled about 3 weeks ago and it is nothing less than fantastic. One of my less beer-loving friends says it is the best beer I have ever brewed, and while I don't necessarily agree to that extent, it is very good. It has a wonderful raspberry aroma, and just enough raspberry aftertaste to put you in raspberry heaven after you've consumed about 1/3 of the bottle, but not enough to make it taste like cordial. The recipe was also one of the simplest I've done - I just used: 1 can, Edme Weizen extract (and the accompanying dry yeast) 1 kg dextrose 500 mL raspberry juice (I found it in a Greek food warehouse) 15g Saaz hops (dry hop) 1/2 cup cracked crystal malt This was, of course, a 22 L batch. The Edme yeast fermented out very cleanly, with no interfering flavours, the addition of the extra Saaz hops was a bloody good idea in my opinion :) (not *my* idea though - pilfered from the Cat's Meow) and the crystal malt probably helped the flavour profile with its complex sugars, although it didn't affect the colour whatsoever. Skaal, Zoz - -- zoz at cs.adelaide.edu.au http://www.cs.adelaide.edu.au/~zoz/ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 94 08:53:57 EDT From: Chris Lyons <Chris.Lyons at analog.com> Subject: Different dry yeasts give different results also ... Scott Josef states writes about liquid yeasts: > 1) Liquid yeast. There is always a lot of talk whether liquid yeast is > worth a little extra trouble. The answer is YES!! Although good beer > can be made with dried yeast, I feel that the range of flavors provided > by the liquid strains gives great flexibility. Flavors produced by the > yeast are very important in the final product, second only to hops and > malt. Additionally, it is easier to make a beer "true to style" by > selecting the proper yeast. Try making a pale ale with dried yeast and > then compare the same product made with Wyeast London. IMHO, the choice > is clear. I'd just like to point out that all dried yeasts are not the same. In fact, much like with liquid yeasts, different dry yeasts contibute their own signature to the finished product. Try brewing two batches with the only difference being EDME vs Windsor. The difference is dramatic! Regards, Chris Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 1994 09:54:20 -0400 (EDT) From: tim at access.rrinc.com.blacksburg.va.us (Tim Buck) Subject: "Half" batches I've just started homebrewing, though I've been lurking here for several weeks. I just bottled a 5-gallon wonderful smelling nut brown ale (my Very First Batch), and I'm ready to start another batch. However, I don't drink that much -- I'm much more interested in variety. So I'd like to start brewing what I think of as "half" batches (~ 3 gallons). Does anyone have any experiences they can share with me regarding 3-gallon batches (such as how much to cut the ingredients, whether the 6 1/2-gallon fermenting bucket is still usable, etc.)? Thanks! Timothy Buck | Q: "How many Apple Newtons does it take tim at access.rrinc.com.blacksburg.va.us | to change a light bulb?" timbuck at borg.lib.vt.edu | A: "Faux. Three lemons axe soup." Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 94 7:55:54 MDT From: Jason Goldman <jason at bluestar.cnd.hp.com> Subject: Re: Stout Bout: The Truth I wanted to add some comments to Martin's reply to David Allison about the Gold Country Brewers and their "Stout Bout". First of all, I have run an AHA sanctioned competition, so I am familiar with Martin's experience regarding volunteer help. Answering questions from brewers while trying to check in entries is very difficult given the number of volunteers available. I think in this case, it seems fairly clear that David's entry was not received, so I wouldn't assume fraud on the part of the Gold Country Brewers. Face it, there's not really much motivation to do this (especially if you're not cashing their check) and I would guess that Martin is like the rest of us and takes running a competition very seriously. I would add, though, that even if I were sending *all* of the paperwork to the AHA immediately, I would keep a copy of most of the material, especially the list of entries and the placing finishers. I'd want this, not only to be able to answer questions like Davids', but also because...well, things get lost in the mail. Jason Goldman jason at bluestar.cnd.hp.com Beer is.....good. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 94 10:09:21 EDT From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: Re: AHA Homebrew Comps. I note in the most recent issue of Zymurgy, the following: Correspondance ... should be directed ... On CompuServe contact AHA President Karen Barela at 75250,1350, AHA/BJCP Administrator James Spence at 70740,1107, and zymurgy Managing Editor Dena Nishek at 73252,3571. To translate a compuserve address into an internet address, replace the comma by a period, and add at compuserve.com to the end. Thus, James Spence's address becomes 70740.1107 at compuserve.com =Spencer in Ann Arbor, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 1994 10:19:53 -0400 (EDT) From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> Subject: Tripple "Bock", NOT! I have been wondering about this so called Tripple Bock that Jim Koch has been pushing of late. Turns out its not a bock at all, but merely a strong Barley Wine. The beer is produced with a top fermenting ALE yeast, then hit with a Champagne yeast to help finish the fermentation. On top of this, it has a sugar adjunct added, which of course is very non - Reinheitsgebot. Guess he wont be marketing this baby in Germany! Just goes to show, in the US you can call it whatever you want. Good marketing, Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 04 Oct 1994 07:38:00 +0900 From: bjones at novax.llnl.gov (Bob Jones) Subject: Open fermenters Brian Gowland says about fermenting in open fermenters : >It can actually be detrimental to deprive the yeast head of contact with air. Please Brian, tell us about this. How can this be detrimental? I always thought there was a CO2 blanket over the beer while it was fermenting, during either open or closed fermentation. Enlighten us. Bob Jones bjones at novax.llnl.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 04 Oct 1994 10:35:47 -0400 (EDT) From: /R=HERLVX/R=AM/U=KLIGERMAN/FFN=KLIGERMAN/ at mr.rtpnc.epa.gov Subject: High F.G., cider, and Scotland Well I just got back from a great visit to Scotland, and I must say I really enjoyed the cask-conditioned ales. I had a great tour of the Caledonian Brewery in Edinburgh. I will post a description in a day or two, but first I need help quickly, and I knew without the passage of a mental health care bill, the HBD was the next best place. 1. I plan to make a dry hard cider this weekend with raw cider from the mountains of Virginia. I will pitch with a dry London Ale yeast from Canada. Should I either boil or heat the cider to 190 F (before pitching) to kill any bacteria or wild yeast or will that risk setting the pectin? 2. I recently made an "authentic porter" using 5 lbs. of D-C Pale malt and 2.5 lbs. of home made brown malt by gently roasting some more pale malt. "To this was added 2.5 lbs. of D-C biscuit malt, 0.5 lbs. caramunich, and 0.5 lbs. black malt. The O.G. was 1.050. This was then pitched with a wyeast 1028 starter, shaken, etc. and fermented for 4 days at approximately 68 F then racked (gravity: 1.030). The gravity is still 1.030 almost 1 month later so I decided to keg this one. Has this truly fermented out and the the brown malt has added dextrins and nonfermentables or do I have a stuck fermentation? It doesn't taste sweet -- just like a nice smooth porter. Any help would be appreciated. Andy "Mac"Kligerman Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 1994 08:09:23 -0400 (EDT) From: Steven Lichtenberg <steve at Pentagon-EMH6.army.mil> Subject: Caramel in beer In response to todays HBD, Kirk Harralson related his experiences with caramel. Cooked sugar is nothing to play with. Sugart caramelizes at temperatures over 300^ and like Kirk stated will stick to your skin and seal all of the heat undera blanket of hot sugar. You will get very bad burns if not careful. The correct technique for adding hot sugar ( caramelized or not0 is to temper the sugar solution with a small amount of cool liquid prior to adding to the entire batch. Simply put this involves adding a small amount of cool liquid TO the hot sugar. NOT the other way around. This technique has several effects. It sets the color of the sugar (which can also be done with the addition of a few drops of lemon juice) as caramel will continue to darken even when you take it off the heat. It also moderates the temperature of the hot sugar and contains the "explosion" in a small space that is still manageable. This technique is almost universal in cooking. You always add a small amount of cold liquid to the hot liquid prior to adding the entire contents to you pot/mixer etc. If done correctly, this will provide a safe method for adding HOT (over boiling temp for water) liquids to a recipe. **** ---- "There's always time for a Homebrew!" ---- **** C|~~| -------------- Steven Lichtenberg ------------- C|~~| `--' -------- steve at pentagon-emh6.army.mil ------- `--' ------------------------------------------- ENJOY LIFE--THIS IS NOT A REHEARSAL Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 94 9:02:58 MDT From: npyle at hp7013.ecae.StorTek.COM Subject: First Year / Caramel / Long Postings I really enjoyed Scott Bukofsky's "First year reflections". You've obviously learned quite a bit in that year, Scott. Well, at least I think so, since I agree pretty much with everything you said. I *still* havent' gotten away from "trying everything but the kitchen sink", but I'll learn one day. ** Kirk Harralson, I too, experienced something similar with making caramel at home. I splattered a bit of the molten sugar on my hand, a small spot about the size of a pea. I immediately, like within half a second, sucked it off my hand into my mouth. It didn't burn my mouth, in fact it wasn't even very hot, but it blistered my hand right away. I poured the hot caramel into a container to use in tomorrow's brew session. It is hardened, but I don't think I'll have any trouble melting it in the kettle. This is probably the advised method for using caramel (I'm talking about cooling it first, NOT burning your hand first). ** Bob Paolino writes: >That having been said, I think it is appropriate to exercise a little >self-restraint in responding or posting _long_ items of limited appeal if you >know of a better way to target it. Posting competition winners 1stch of 20+ >categories in a homebrew competition probably will get some people pissed >off. I agree Bob, and you didn't even mention those long contest announcements where the entire contest is described from the dates/fees/location (which is important), down to the oddball categories and ALL the rules. I'd really appreciate a concise summary and a "email me for more details" type of post. And you're right, I haven't had my coffee yet this morning... Cheers, Norm npyle at hp7013.ecae.stortek.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 1994 14:35:59 GMT From: "Theodore B. Samsel, Comp Spec, Richmond, VA "<tbsamsel at qvarsx.er.usgs.gov> Subject: Shiner Beer song The leader of a band I was in in Austin wrote this. (John Clay & the Lost Austin Band)... To the tune of the Praha Polka.... Empty bottles of beer on the floor there won't be any more cos they closed up the store We'll get together another time here With more of that Shiner beer. Just take a sip and you will know that you're going to have to drink it slow That's why everyone I know Spends so much time Drinking Shiner Beer. (repeat first part) This is from the '60s when Shiner was a cheapo regional beer. Now it's $7.00 a sixer in VA. It used to to taste better, too. Very yeasty.... Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 94 08:15:14 PDT From: hollen at megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck) Subject: RE: Wort O2 >>>>> "Jim" == Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> writes: Jim> Chuck writes: Jim> <here's the best place to get an oxygen bottle to use for wort areation? Jim> <Can I use standard welding oxygen or do I need to have medical grade O2? Jim> <If welding oxygen, do I need to put an in-line filter in? Jim> I called several welding shops and bought the cheapest new bottle of Jim> welding O2. I use a .2 micron inline filter, the medical disk type. Jim> It works very well. You may be able to get away without a filter, Jim> bit it is a simple and cheap way to be sure. I have used silica airstones Jim> with good results, as well as SS scintered stones. Jim> Good brewing, Jim> Jim Busch Could you please say where you get these filters? I have been using welding O2 with no filtering and am scared I am not practicing "safe aeration". This would be a much easier solution than making some sort of liquid based sanitizer in the O2 line. thanks, dion Dion Hollenbeck (619)675-4000x2814 Email: hollen at megatek.com Staff Software Engineer Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California Return to table of contents
Date: 4 Oct 1994 07:46:50 U From: "Palmer.John" <palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com> Subject: Update on Lead Removal Hi Group, Meant to send this sooner but I have been busy. On Sunday, I ran more lead removal experiments. (Had to go buy more Home Test Kits). With the 2/1 volume ratio of vinegar to H2O2, complete lead removal took between 10 and 15 minutes. The soft buttery gold color can be used as a good indicator that the process is complete. Preliminary results last week had indicated less time, but with the revised 2/1 ratio, the brass can be left in the solution longer without blackening or pitting. So, 10-15 minutes. Thanks, John Palmer MDA-SSD M&P palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 94 11:57:25 EDT From: "Lee A. Menegoni" <lmenegoni at nectech.com> Subject: Club only competitions Our club has regularly participated in all club only events for three years or so. We have always got our results from the AHA in a timely manner, except the time the box the entry was in got crushed on a loading dock. Since our membership spans the states of New Hampshire and Massachusetts we have on rare occasions had problems getting the entry forms to the club representative, James Spence has always been helpful in this regard by mailing a set to the party in need. IMHO the club only competitions mirror HB competitions in general some are run better than others. Entrants in any HB competition should realize these are run on volunteer labor. Our club, The Brew Free or Die Homebrew Club of New Hampshire, is hosting the club only Bock competition in the spring of 1995. We will recieve no compensation from the AHA. One member will be accepting 50-70 UPS packages at their home, probably in a 10 day span. These entries will be transported to another member's home who is donatining their beer refridgerator space for all the entries and their home as a judging site too. Other members will serve as stewards and judges some of whom will drive 50 or miles to volunteer. Homebrewing is a hobby. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 04 Oct 1994 09:51:58 -0600 (MDT) From: COYOTE <SLK6P at cc.usu.edu> Subject: INBOX Message (See Below) (Mailer.MC1) Hah- tricked you! Thought it was gonna be a reject message didn't you! Don't you all hate seeing those! Well I do!!!!!!!!! Ok...ok...ok. Gripe grumble moan. Seems to me a consistent header like that could/should be filtered out by the wonders of the automated extravaganza of the administratia of this fine digest. Coordinator- coordinator- could you- would you- please sir! Seems like ANYTHING that sez INBOX is bound to be GARBAGE. I haven't seen ONE yet that held any worth. Is it possible? Tanx. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 04 Oct 1994 10:27:22 -0600 (MDT) From: COYOTE <SLK6P at cc.usu.edu> Subject: Juicer/ Contest Entries- Mail/ Zymurgy articles/ Addr. at end! Juicer Rundown: Had a couple favorable messages on use of these steam juicers- enough so that I think I'll go for it. BUT: I'm not gonna bother you all with WHO posted to me, since I've already thanked them in private! Yes more gadgets from ACME for the Coyote's brewing efforts. Seen one for ~$20-30. Catalog number Bu11Shee1t. ACME products :) (actually at a local cheapo store- same supplier of the Coyote Cooker! I like the idea that the "juice comes out sterile due to the steam" and it's "clear- no pulp" and can be collected in "sterile hot champagne bottle" and "stored as is until it's needed for beer or wine" (indirect quotes...just off the top of my furry head) *** Contest Entries never arrive. Hmm- could we blame to post office? Nah. I support Martin's right to publicly defend himself against this attack. It seems like the CORRECT step of contacting the AHA- didn't happen. Plus- hey, if the check didn't get cashed- seems like SOMETHING is wrong! I know for a fact that if a box leaks during transport- it gets dumped. SO- if something cracked in the box en-route, that was the end of it. One of the wonders of our great postal services is how packages can get lost or discarded, and if there is no insurance, well they just dissapear. No notification WHATEVER. You just get that carefree, snide, ignorant look from the person behind the counter saying, "I don't know anything about it and I'm not really going to try to find out for you either, you're just SOL". I had a computer disk and a bag of...woodruff that was supposed to come my way. It never did. My guesses: 1. it was lost, 2. someone opened it, found the baggie of brown leaves, and thought it was "something else" and either sent it to the authorities, or sampled some. I hope that had a FIERSE headache and a NASTY cough! Strange thing was a bill from the city was never delivered around the same time. SO go figure. There have been stories/cases of shipments/boxes mysteriously dissapearing from airline baggage areas, and delivery trucks. Espcially things labelled like- Case of Beer, Valuable Delicate Fragile Commodity, Do Not Drop. My advise- Package EXCESSIVELY. Bubble wrap bottles, pack FIRMLY with packing popcorn. Use oversized boxes. Do not let bottles touch in the box. Securely bag up bottles- water tight! Hell- insure the thing, claim an excessively high value on it! They leave that up to you. If they lose it you WILL collect. Perhaps enough to cover a WHOLE new batch of brew, or even a stainless steel pot if you really exagerate! Also: Use reverse psychology. Print in bold letters on the outside: Please Kick. Throw this box against brick walls. Drop from truck. Anyside but this one up. Hit with baseball bat. Stack VERY high! Please open and check contents, then reclose VERY poorly. I love you! *** Articles to Zymurgy? Al seems to have claimed credit for the bubble theory. I seem to remember a long discussion about this concept some time back, and a generalized consensus was that the nasties will persist inside the bubble and move right on through that little gadget. But...maybe it was Al who came up with that theory. It's his now it seems. I'm not going to check the archives to prove it one way or another. My question here is: Since this is clearly a flawed gadget concept what is it doing getting published in a "big" magazine like zymurgy? What does it take to publish an article in zymurgy and what do you get for it. Money, fame, floozy women (or men), free beer and brewing supplies? What if I want to publish something in the magazine- just write up what could easily be an HBD article, and send it to them instead (or as well as). Do I have to be any more correct that I do for the HBD? (which certainly isn't the case- had you all believing the peat wood thing didn't I- I thought I was right, therefore I was right - for my own little world! But I still think propane isn't the right heat source for a good smoke! Anyone ever try smoking hops?) *** I haven't gotten any response on the carboy handle question. So- here it is again: How/Where do you attach it for a 7 Gal acid bottle? On the threaded portion, or lower down? The only suggestion was to use a milk crate for carrying. I know that one. (thanks anyway Domenick) but it doesn't help for rinsing and general fondling of the carboy. Plus some of fermometers are place too low for that to work (ooops) *** Finally- my old plea- that people put their internet address at the end of their posts. I don't need to know where you work and don't care how cute you can draw a mug of beer :) but I can't work backwards in a digest (can you?) and for direct responses it's nice to have the e-mail add at the end. I usually don't know if it's worth a response till I've read the message by then the header is gone! Just my personal preference. \-/-\ John (The Coyote) Wyllie SLK6P at cc.usu.edu \-/-\ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 94 12:46:35 EDT From: cem at cadre.com (Chuck E. Mryglot) Subject: Old Peculiar Anyone have any luck cloning Teakston's Old Peculiar. I had it on occasion last year when I was on assignment in England (real good out of the keg) and just had a few bottles last night. Good stuff. What classification does this Ale fall into? chuckm Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 1994 13:32:08 -0400 From: derek at bex.com (Derek Bowen) Subject: Lagering I am starting my first lagering job and I am not sure about a few things. 1) What is the lowest temperature which I should lager at and does the temperature make any difference in the quality of the brew? Obviously time does, but I am in no particular rush. 2) Should I be lagering from day one or wait a few days before moving the beer to the colder area? 3) Should I be racking the beer at some time or do all of the fermentation in the primary fermenter? And if so, doesn't the racking leave behind the yeast (after all, it is bottom fermenting!) Basically, should I treat it like an ale or just leave it alone?! TIA Derek Bowen dbowen at bex.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 1994 11:18:32 -0700 From: wolfgang at cats.ucsc.edu (Robert F. Dougherty) Subject: rate of DMS production... Hi! Please note that I'm posting this for Karl- try to send any replies to his address..... thanks, bob dougherty Here it is: ********************************************************************** In his book on continental pilsners, Dave Miller states that DMS production takes place in hot wort (after the boil), but no longer takes place once the wort is cooled. Does anybody have any idea what at what rate the DMS is produced. For instance, if the cool down rate from boiling to 50 F is 1.5 hours versus 30 minutes could the amount of DMS go from below the taste threshold to above the taste threshold by using the slower cool down rate? Or is the increase in DMS negligible? Thank you. Karl - -- Karl Scheppers -- Karl_Scheppers at notes.seagate.com - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Seagate Technology - 920 Disc Drive - Scotts Valley, CA 95066 USA Main Phone 408-438-6550 - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 1994 11:40:54 -0700 (PDT) From: Jim Emery <jimery at u.washington.edu> Subject: maple syrup Hi all. I was wondering if someone can tell me more about the affects of adding maple syrup to ones wort. It's mentioned briefly in Papazians two books but he doesn't seem to write much about how it affects the taste, body etc. I'm planning on brewing a cranberry wheat beer from the latest Zymurgy. I know that Sam Adams misnamed Cranberry Lambic uses some maple surup and was thinking about adding this to the recipe. Any info would be appreciated. Cheers. Jim Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 04 Oct 94 15:47:18 EDT From: uswlsrap at ibmmail.COM Subject: Wheat malt extract? - -------------------- Mail Item Text Follows ------------------ To: I1010141--IBMMAIL From: Bob Paolino Research Analyst Subject: Wheat malt extract? Does anyone out there know of a 100% wheat malt extract other than 3 kg cans of Ireks? (I assume it's 100% because the ingredients list is: Wheat, Water.) The homebrew shop owner said it's the only one he knows about, and only that size. It's not that I'm looking to do a 100% wheat brew. I have the Briess weizen extract (60-40, I believe) in my kitchen, but it's too dark for what I want to make, and I want the 100% wheat to blend with a light (barley) extract. I bought the stuff because that's what he had, but it's more than I need in one brew, considering that I'll be adding other fermentables. 1) Are there other 100% wheat extracts? Do they come in smaller sizes? 2) May I correctly assume that the Ireks will be fairly light in colour, or have I not really solved my problem? 3) The other ones he had were Briess (liquid and dry--I've used both) and M&F (haven't used). Is the M&F (40-60) any good, and is it very light? Private email okay, but this might be worth posting for others. TIA. Bob Paolino Disoriented in Badgerspace Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 04 Oct 1994 15:49:32 -0400 (EDT) From: CJMURTAUGH at HCACAD.HOLYCROSS.EDU Subject: Brewing Kettles I'm looking to buy a brewing kettle, and was wondering if anyone has any suggestions on where I might find one at a good price, and/or what manufacturer I should look for. Specifically, I'm looking for stainless steel, preferably 8-10 gallons, with a spigot. Any suggestions would be appreciated!! Thanks, Colin Murtaugh Worcester, MA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 1994 13:03:45 MST7MDT From: Marc Hugentobler <MARHUG at TELECOM.USU.EDU> Subject: OOdles of bottles Hey compadres, Long time no speak. Thought I'd chime in on the bottle issue. As far as unmarked brown bottles go I have a hard time doin' better than budswillmillers etc. Steve Robinson writes in lament, "gimme something I can drink!"( Not a direct quote). Why drink swill? I just mosie on over to the local pub and buy the empties. For about a $1 I get a case of 12 oz. bottles in a nifty box(Good for stacking in the basement!) Check around at establishments in your area, its likely you can score some empties if you play your cards right. For that matter, any person I've ever known that both drinks beer and knows I brew, eventually shows up at my door with bags of various bottles. "Can you use these?" they say as I graciously smile and say "Ahhh, sure." I take em and sort them into two piles- those I want and those I don't. Recycle the ones I don't and bolster my bottle collection with the ones I do. In fact my bottle needs rarely exceed my stock. Unless I get a little overzealous brewing beers of every different kind. Anyhow, just a couple of ideas for the oft-maligned bottler(read not enough dough to keg). Adios Marc Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 94 17:01:44 EDT From: danz at edasich.rtp.semi.harris.com (George Danz x632) Subject: Vitamin C as antioxidant I heard from a local brewshop that one can use Vitamin C (not the pills, but Ascorbic Acid crystals) as an antioxidant when mixing priming sugar in the carboy, etc. prior to bottling. Does anyone have any experience with this and what flavor changes, etc. may occur? Also what is the recommended quantity to use for a 5 gal. quantity? The reason all this comes up is that in order to get a good mix of priming sugar, since I batch prime (too lazy to prime each bottle or container), I heard that one should put priming sugar in empty carboy first, so that when the new beer was racked into it, a good mix was established and even carbonation in each bottle would result. Well, I've had good mixing action, but it seems that the extra racking step could introduce more air than might be desirable. Any comments? Thanks, George Danz Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 94 17:53:29 EDT From: djfitzg at VNET.IBM.COM Subject: Memphis I will be traveling to memphis for the weekend. Does anyone know of a few good brewpubs in the area? Please send replies via private email to djfitzg at vnet.ibm.com Thanks, Dan Fitzgerald Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 1994 15:56:58 -0700 (PDT) From: malodah at pbgueuze.scrm2700.PacBell.COM (Martin Lodahl) Subject: Stout Bout: The Last, I Hope My apologies to David Allison for unloading on him in HBD 1532, and to the readership of HBD for subjecting them to the blast. David and I have been in touch via email, and I'm now convinced that what he intended to say was very different from my interpretation of his message. I did get several email messages on the subject (only one of which was completely foolish), and a consistent question was why I didn't retain records of the contest results, rather than send everything back to the AHA. The reason is directly related to the nature of the AHA-sponsored "Club-Only" competitions. They are fundamentally different from the customary AHA-sanctioned competitions. All checks are made out to the AHA, and the AHA announces the results. They are the sponsors of the contest, and the club doing the judging is acting as a contractor to them. The AHA reimburses such expenses as cups, copying, postage, bread and water, and provides a list of BJCP judges in the area. The club that does the work pays for pretty much anything else that may be needed, such as food for the judges, if you don't do the whole thing in a single session. If your club is thinking about doing one of these, be advised that it will be a hit on your treasury, as well as an, er, interesting experience. All entry forms, etc., are sent to the AHA as soon after the judging as is possible, and all questions concerning these contests should be directed to the AHA. The only real argument for keeping a copy of everything would be in case the mailing to the AHA were to disappear, but with Express Mail that's a pretty rare event, and if necessary the records could be reconstructed from the registrar's spreadsheet. It would be the AHA's job, then, to try to get duplicate checks for the entry fees. Another key to this situation is that it's sadly common for beer to disappear in shipment. If you're shipping via USPS and they guess what it is, it's gone. UPS appears to have no consistent policy; some locations will either return or seize any shipment that they suspect contains alcohol. FedEx has never failed me, but they're _very_ expensive. So I hope this puts the question to rest, and allows us to go on in peace. - Martin = Martin Lodahl Systems Analyst, Capacity Planning Pacific*Bell = = malodah at pacbell.com Sacramento, CA USA 916.972.4821 = = If it's good for ancient Druids runnin' nekkid through the wuids, = = Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! (Unk.) = Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 04 Oct 1994 11:27:00 -0800 (PST) From: David Allison 225-5764 <ALLISON.DAVID at A1GW.GENE.COM> Subject: Stout Bout Apologies Sorry I don't have any of those cool mail tools to cut and paste comments. First - My apologies to Martin and the Gold Country Brewers Assoc. for my curt comments regarding my Stout Bout entry (or lack of). In trying to make my post short, I connected their fine club and the way AHA sponsored club competitions are handled. I certainly did not mean to slander Martin or the GCBA -- and for that misunderstanding -- I am truly sorry. To make a short post long, and to explain myself (perhaps I should keep my mind shut) -- I didn't mean to imply that the GCBA "deep-sixed" my paperwork/check and just drank my beer (did I say that?). When I called the GCBA to find out if my beer was received/judged -- Martin told me that all paperwork was sent off to the AHA, because that how the AHA sponsored homebrew comps are handled. Martin was polite and helpful on the phone as I have found him to be on the HBD. My frustrations arise from the method in which AHA sponsored competitions are handled, which the GCBA followed (as required). The only way I could find out if my beer was received was to wait for my scoresheets to arrive from the AHA or my check to be cashed. From my understanding, the AHA is notoriously slow in this process (sorry if that is slander). I waited a few months before posting my poorly written HBD post. I didn't have Martin's or the AHA's e-mail addresses (I do now) and should have written them personally regarding the final results. One purpose in writing to the HBD was to get a dialog with other HBDers with regards to problems in getting competition results from the AHA in a timely manner. I understand that I am not the only one. Perhaps it would be better if the AHA let the homebrew club deal with tabulating the results and sending them to the entrants. This is what is done with AHA sanctioned competitions. Then the sponsoring homebrew club could send the final results to the AHA along with other pertainant info to the AHA. I am sure there is a problem with this that I don't foresee, but at least homebrewers wouldn't have to wait months to find out if their beer had indeed been received and judged. I have subsequently found out that indeed the scoresheets have been sent out and checks have been cashed. I guess I have to dig-out my cancelled checks to see if mine was ever cashed and that will tell me if my entry got lost in the mail or the scoresheets were -- I suspect that my entry was lost (drag). I was very careful in sending it. BTW, I have been involved (volunteered) in large competitions and do realize the effort that is put into them. I have also entered competitions and have always received my scoresheets in a reasonable timeframe. Again, I had no idea if the the AHA was just being slow -- which leads me to ... Second... I have contacted the AHA _twice_ about the delay in receiving Zymurgy a month later than the local brew shops. They informed me that the individual subscriptions go out in third class mail and the arrival of my magazine is up to the US Mail (Oh No!!). Don - I am sorry to upset you also (I must have been having a bad mind day), but I am wondering why I should pay essentially the same money for Zymurgy to be sent to me a month later than I could get via the homebrew shop. Are there others out there with these same issues/concerns/problems? - David P.S. I just received an email regarding the first post in the HBD. This was never meant to be a me versus them issue -- let's keep it constructive. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 94 20:58:44 EDT From: Andrew Patti <patti at ee.rochester.edu> Subject: Mashout Over this past weekend I brewed a Northern Brown Ale from a recipe in Miller's handbook (I don't recall the name exactly right now), and used his suggested method for doing a partial mash. It turned out to be a lot of fun, and pretty low-tech. In all the excitement over tasting the sweetness of the mash after the starch rest, my partner and I forgot to do the mash-out step. This was my first tinkering with all grain brewing, and I'm curious what the effect of NOT conducting the mashout could have on the brew. Any comments would be appreciated. Andy Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1544, 10/05/94