HOMEBREW Digest #1707 Mon 17 April 1995

Digest #1706 Digest #1708

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  time for the Scarsdale Diet (Rob Emenecker)
  Lead/Gout ("Justin A. Haber")
  Hop Rhizomes (WillisCPC)
  RIMS programming, wooden casks, AB Bock ("Edmund C. Hack")
  Clear bottles for mead? (KozukaShi)
  Wheat yeast, dry hops, etc. (Mark Worwetz)
  Extract Recipe (WillisCPC)
  Dry hopping (mlloyd)
  RE The Secrets of Sierra Nevada Pale Ale (ChipShabazian)
  PBS indeed! (CGEDEN)
  Culturing Dregs (Mark Roberson)
  Source of seed barley/hop plants (Nigel Townsend)
  Weird Irish Moss Story (Teddy Winstead)
  Suscribe HomebrewList (Thomas M. Cagley)
  Re: Water Conditioning ("Lee C. Bussy")
  Re: American vs. French oak (Jack Thompson)
  Re: American vs. French Oak for Casks ("Lee C. Bussy")
  Old YeastLab yeast?, Weizen yeast, Buckwheat (Jeff Renner)
  Schneider Weisse und Schierlinger Roggen (Chuck E. Mryglot)
  Mashing and Specialty Grains (mark evans)
  Roller Mills ("Dave Ebert")
  Gelatin (Pierre Jelenc)
  Subject: Buying Beer in Atlanta (SBarker309)
  Bottle Caps in the Boil ("Jim Fitzgerald")
  1968 yeast (Farnsworth)
  Dave Line (Farnsworth)
  Oat, Oak, Rings, and Things (Russell Mast)
  ElectroFlocculator/HBD Use (Kirk Fleming / Metro Technologies)
  re:  Oatmeal Stout and head retention (I stepped inside and didn't see too many faces  13-Apr-1995 1318 -0400)
  reslts95.txt (guyruth)
  Pasta Maker-to-Grain Mill & Honey Ale (SBarker309)
  Pilsner Enzymes? (kevin)
  Recipe for All Grain Smithwicks Ale (ernie sargent)
  Gelatine/blow-off tube/Oatmeal/Thanks (usfmchql)
  Kent Goldings hops (david lawrence shea)
  Lagering/Fermentables/Dandelion wine (Polly Eliza Gongwer)
  Old Peculier (Randy Erickson)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 12 Apr 95 14:57:02 PDT From: Rob Emenecker <robe at cadmus.com> Subject: time for the Scarsdale Diet Jeff Hewit writes in HBD 1704... >> I started home brewing, but I've become "more" regular since >> then. The bottom line is, I've gained about 25 pounds in the >> past year. I know it's not just the beer, but I know the beer >> has helped. Homebrew, with more body than regular domestic >> beer, has to have more calories. Beer for the most part does not have any fat content; the primary factor in weight gain. However, as the body metabolizes/processes alcohol most of the B vitamins in the body are spent. These vitamins are critical for other processes, among which is conversion of stored fat/carbo's for fuel. My personal experience was that shortly after homebrewing my weight slowly increased an additional 20 lbs (over only a 1-1/2 year period). I have since dropped this weight, but at a price. Yes... no more cheesesteaks, pizzas, subs, etc. when I am imbibbing in brew. Also, go to most microbrew festivals and what type of food is available? You got it... German sausages and the like (A number 1 source of FAT!!!). If you are going to imbibe excessively stock up on a good B-complex vitamin and fight the urge for junk food. If this doesn't fly, well then, accept the weight gain and go on with life! ;) +----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ : "There are only two things in life that oooooo : : we can ever be certain of... _oooooooo : : ...taxes and beer!" /_| oooooo : : Cheers, // | ooo : : Rob Emenecker \\_| oo | : : remenecker at cadmus.com (Rob Emenecker) \_| o| : : Cadmus Journal Services, Inc. |______| : +----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 1995 15:12:30 -0400 (EDT) From: "Justin A. Haber" <JAH at cvlab.harvard.edu> Subject: Lead/Gout In HBD #1695, Nathan Dalleska writes: >In the 18th century, Klotz tells us, gout was endemic to Britain, apparently >due to the practice of storing port, sherry, madeira, etc. in lead crystal >containers. Actually, a mutch greater contributer of lead was the lead pipes used to move the wines from the fermenters to the aging casks, and perhaps the fermenters themselves (the stuff was used everywhere). Given the volume of port consumed during the period, often a bottle apiece after dinner(!), the stuff didn't hang around in the lead crystal for long. I assume the problem was greater for wines than beers due to the higher acidity of the must vs. wort. Justin Haber jah at cvlab.harvard.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 1995 15:31:10 -0400 From: WillisCPC at aol.com Subject: Hop Rhizomes wself at viking.emcmt.edu asked about sources of hop rhizomes for planting. I just ordered 3 varieties from Northern Brewer. Email nbrewer at winternet.com. Standard disclaimers apply, I have no interest in them other than they seem to be a good supplier. Gregg Willis Willis CPC at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 1995 12:40:11 -0700 (PDT) From: "Edmund C. Hack" <echack at crl.com> Subject: RIMS programming, wooden casks, AB Bock In HBD 1701, Chuck Wettergreen mentioned the BASIC stamp as a possible RIMS controller. A few points of correction/amplification: The BASIC stamp is not a Radio Shack product. It is made by Parallax, Inc. in two versions for $29-59 depending on options. The software development kit is $99, but you can download the manuals (Adobe Acrobat format), the development software and sample code from their ftp site and web page (http://parallaxinc.com or ftp to parallaxinc.com). The only thing in the $99 SDK that you would need to make is a cable that would cost about $10 in parts. From what I can see, it would be a good place to start for a RIMS controller. Digi-Key also distributes the BASIC Stamps. Check magazines such as Circuit Cellar Ink and Midnight Engineering for ads from Parallax. (I have no financial interest in them, BTW). Also in HBD 1701, Kirk Fleming posted interesting info on wooden casks that may soon be available in the US for beer use. I have one question: it was noted by the seller of the casks that they add an oak flavor to the beer, implying that the casks are not lined. I seem to remember from either the Brewing Techniques series on IPA or the AHA's Pale Ale book that the casks used in the UK are coated with a special type of pitch. Anyone know if that is true? Also, the statement that American Oak leaches more tannins into the contents is why most wineries in the US use imported (French?) oak for fermenting. Finally, our friends at Bud are now producing a bock called "Ziegenbock" here at the Houston brewery. Initial distribution is in Texas only (to compete with Shiner, no doubt) and I picked up a six pack for $4.979 or so. It is OK - big head that really disappears fast, some malt/hops in the nose, I'd put it a half-step below Shiner, several below SA Double Bock and far below any German import I've had. The label approaches claiming to be Reinheitsgebot (sp?) compliant, but never states so. I noted in a post to CIS that if they wanted to, the majors could really produce some great specialty lagers without much competition, since most micros concentrate on ales (for valid economic reasons). Edmund Hack \ "The great prince issues commands, echack at crl.com \ Founds states, vests families with fiefs. Houston, TX \ Inferior people should not be employed."-regnaD kciN Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 1995 12:42:42 -0700 From: KozukaShi at eworld.com Subject: Clear bottles for mead? I understand that putting beer into clear bottles is asking for problems such as light-struck off flavors or skunking. Recently, a friend gave me a couple of cases of those clear glass Corona bar bottles and I'm not wanting to let them go if I don't need to. I'm wondering about using them to bottle some still mead. Are there potential problems if the clear bottles are used for mead instead of beer? John Grivetti sends Zohar: She is a Be'er, a well and an explanation. . . KozukaShi at eworld.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 1995 13:41:49 -0600 (MDT) From: Mark_Worwetz at Novell.COM (Mark Worwetz) Subject: Wheat yeast, dry hops, etc. Howdy from Zion! Long time, no speak, but here we go... To Andy Ross: I have been happiest with the characteristics of the Wheat yeast from William's catalog. To me, it produces the nicest clove, banana like flavors that I enjoy in a Wheat. It finishes very clean and light. On dry-hop flavor: It seems obvious to me that you cannot add JUST hop aroma via dry-hopping. Doesn't much of our flavor/taste perception come via our sense of smell? If you smell it while you drink it, THEN YOU TASTE IT! Is it just me? Question: I have gotten my doppelbock recipe just about where I like it, but I have had trouble getting a yeast to eat my 1.082 OG wort down to an acceptable level. The best performance I obtained was 1.022 FG. This is too sweet tasting! I won't say what yeasts I've used, but I have used a one liter starter and fermented until all activity stopped 2 months later. I would appreciate good doppelbock yeast advice, and any help concerning larger starters, yeast nutrients, temperature changes, etc. Would higher hop rates help? I use the generic Papazian doppelbock IBU recommendations. Lagering takes too long to make uninformed experimentation acceptable. TIA to the beertherhood! Mark Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 1995 15:54:43 -0400 From: WillisCPC at aol.com Subject: Extract Recipe Someone recently asked for straight extract recipes, here is one I brewed a few months ago that everyone seems to like. 1 can (3.3 lbs) John Bull Hopped Amber Malt 1 can (3.3 lbs) John Bull Amber Malt, unhopped 40 ml Burton Ale liquid yeast 40 min boil 1.045 sp. gr. Racked to secondary fermentor after 7 days, 1.02 sp. gr. Bottled after 2 weeks in secondary and no activity using 1 1/4 cup dry amber malt for priming, 1.02 sp. gr. I do not remember if the yeast was Yeast Labs or Wyeast, I got it from Williams Brewing I think. Also, I do not necessarily believe my SG's. After bottling I did get what seems to be the common "ring around the neck" since I used DME for priming. This beer was fine as is but if I do it again I will try to get some more body in it, maybe add some crystal malt or some wheat DME. Happy Brewing! Gregg Willis (I know this is my second post today, but I forgot to add this to the first.) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 95 13:31:08 EST From: mlloyd at cuix.pscu.com Subject: Dry hopping David Shea wrote about some problems in dryhopping SNPA and a clone of Redhook ESB. In my clone of Redhook, which I call Trolleyman ESB, I typically use 1 oz. Tettnang pellets for a five minute finish and 0.75 oz. Tettnang pellets as a dry hop in the secondary for 21 days. My most recent purchases of Tettnang hops have come in at 5.6% alpha acid. I suspect the overly strong hop note comes from using 1.0 oz of Tettnang pellets as a dry hop. I would suggest cranking down the dry hop weight to 0.75 oz of Tettnang pellets. I used to use 1.0 oz Tettnang whole hops as a dry hop, but discovered that I got a more *rounded* hop aroma by using the pellets. If you wished to use whole hops in the dry hop, then I would try 1.0 oz. Best of luck in future batches. Michael G. Lloyd mlloyd at cuix.pscu.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 95 14:16:00 PDT From: ChipShabazian <ChipS at 800sw.com> Subject: RE The Secrets of Sierra Nevada Pale Ale Jon Binkley Asks: >I noticed that you covered only three of the Big Four ingredients in >your excellent synopsis. Is there anything special about Chico's >water supply, or does SN do any special water treatment? I was a student at CSU Chico and working for the company that sold SN all of their computer equipment when they moved from their original location to the building they now occupy (Around 1989), and as I recall, the new brewery was delayed by a few months because they were having problems duplicating the water used in the original building. So there is definitely something special about the water. If anyone wants to analyze it, next time I go to Chico (about twice a year, nothing planned right now), I will go the site of the original brewery and get a sample, providing whoever is now in the building will let me in! Chip Shabazian chips at 800sw.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 95 17:57:29 EDT From: CGEDEN at NERVM.NERDC.UFL.EDU Subject: PBS indeed! Does this PBS of homebrewing archive its postings somewhere where we proles can read them? Or do you need the secret decoder ring to translate them? Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 1995 16:56:14 -0600 From: roberson at hydroxide.chem.utah.edu (Mark Roberson) Subject: Culturing Dregs Fellow brewers, Having lately fallen in love with Belgian Ales, and having read bad things about Wyeast's offerings in that category, I have "cultured" the fluff from two bottles of Chimay Grand Reserve and one of Corsendonk <sp?>. In all three cases I flamed out the mouth of the original bottle and poured the leavings into a twelve ounce bottle with eight ounces of aerated starter. In all three cases as well I wound up with a thick layer of stuff that looks like the sediment which I poured in, but I never saw any gas make it through the bubbler. Quite unlike my 1056 starters... Would someone with more experience in this magic tell me if this is normal? Hoppy brewing, Steve, MJR **************** FREE FLAME ZONE **************** **************** ENTER AT RISK **************** >Date: Sat, 8 Apr 1995 20:46:29 +0000 >From: "Lee C. Bussy" <leeb at southwind.net> >Subject: Floral aroma and re-using Cascades > > [ deleted beer judging stuff ] > >This all brings me to my last point for today: There has been a >trend of late to dissect and anylize everything a person says and >either prove or disprove to the nth degree or correct spelling and >grammar. Who the hell cares? I'm not affected by whether or not a ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ **************** Wait just one minute: when Mr Bussy posts reams of local competition results for the benefit of those too lazy to email for a copy, I am supposed to grin and bear it. When I and my techie friends discuss issues which WE FIND INTERESTING we are lectured on netiquette. What an ass. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 09:08:30 +1000 From: nigelt at delm.tas.gov.au (Nigel Townsend) Subject: Source of seed barley/hop plants k-jones at ee.utah.edu (Kelly Jones) sought a source of barley seed. I do a lot of gardening and use barley straw (bought as bales) as a mulch. I find that I have considerable volunteers arising from the seed remaining on the straw. I tend to leave it to grow and use it as a source for the next layer of mulch. If you try this,try shaking the grain out before placing on the ground. You should also try add some fertiliser (eg blood and bone, manure etc) and compost under the straw, as this will increase grain cropping and accelerate the breakdown of the straw. The soil is greatly improved after a couple of years of repeating this process. The mulch will reduce weed competition, but keep it moist whilst you are trying to germinate the seeds. Following recent discussions on malting grain, I will try a small sample this year to see how it works. ---------------- Any one in Tasmania know of a good local supplier of hop plants? I am looking for aroma hops. Thanks Nigel, Tasmania, Australia Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 1995 19:40:50 -0500 (CDT) From: winstead%brauerei at cs.tulane.edu (Teddy Winstead) Subject: Weird Irish Moss Story I thought that this story was appropriate to share with the digest -- I had planned to make some oatmeal stout on Tuesday, so Monday night (this is Wednesday today) I re-hydrated 2 tsp in about 1 cup of water. By this evening it was fermenting! Yes, beleive it or not the Irish Moss/water mixture was bubbling like a yeast starter of similar size, and it had a funky looking pellicle on top. So, I guess the moral of this story is -- be careful where you store your Irish moss... Or, I guess this could actually help lambic brewers... Just put the irish moss in you *cooled* wort! I have no idea what was fermenting in there... Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 05:49:24 -0400 From: fp175 at cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Thomas M. Cagley) Subject: Suscribe HomebrewList Suscribe Homebrew Mailing List Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 05:46:54 +0000 From: "Lee C. Bussy" <leeb at southwind.net> Subject: Re: Water Conditioning Rob McDonald asks about water conditiong: Specifically, on a highly alkaline water supply, Dave Miller Recommends USP Hydrochloric Acid as a means to lower the pH. His questions were: >Has anyone tried this? Yup. >If so what recommendations can you make. Use 88% lactic available at the Homebrew shop. Cheaper, more readily available and it is definitely food grade. I usually have to use less than 1/4 tsp per 10 gallons of water with this water supply. YMMV. A friend used plain old Vinegar but I just can't bring myself to do it. I don't see why it wouldn't work though. > Can anybody suggest why this wouldn't be a good idea? Just safety considerations. I don't know at what concentrations USP Hydrochloric comes but the Lactic is safe right out of the bottle (okay, usual precautions apply but hey, it's pretty safe). - -- -Lee Bussy | The 4 Basic Foodgroups.... | leeb at southwind.net | Salt, Fat, Beer & Women! | Wichita, Kansas | http://www.southwind.net/~leeb | Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 03:56:10 -0700 (PDT) From: Jack Thompson <jct at reed.edu> Subject: Re: American vs. French oak Matt Wyss comented in HBD 1705 that he had been told that American oak could be used to make barrels as good as French barrels if the oak was split instead of being sawn. This is untrue. All that splitting will accomplish is to separate out the firewood (i.e., twisty wood) from wood which splits true. Subsequent operations with planes and scrappers will open up at least as many pores as sawing. If the goal is to remove tannin and acetic acid, boil the split-out blanks in water before working them down into staves. This will remove a substantial fraction of water soluble material; the blanks which remain in plane after this treatment will be very dimensionally stable. Any which twist on drying join the others in the firewood pile. Any differences in taste are a function of minerals in the dirt which the oak grows upon. Jack C. Thompson Thompson Conservation Lab Portland, OR jct at Reed.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 06:03:08 +0000 From: "Lee C. Bussy" <leeb at southwind.net> Subject: Re: American vs. French Oak for Casks Matt Wyss gave us some info ge got on American Oak wine casks: Apparently the tour guide said that these were split not sawn and henc leached less? Makes sense I guess. There was a blurb on PBS last weekend on "This Old House" where Norm and Steve went to a Cooper's (Cooperage?) in Napa Valley. This was a French family (can't remember the name) who had been doing it for generations. Norm asked about the French vs American Oak aspect. He was told that they used to import the wood but a combination of cost effectiveness and a desire to be different forced American Coopers to the American White Oak. It was the Coopers opinion that American Winemakers want an American Wine to have an "American" character since they are established well enough on the market to be able to influence the style rather than copy it. And splitting vs. sawing..... these were sawn and the Cooper said nothing about that but all barrels are charred on the inside, "toasting" I belive they call it. He indicated that how this is done greatly affects the finished product. Maybe that seals the pores somewhat. I can tell you that White Oak is not near as porous as many woods I can think of... I don't se how it would be a problem but I'm not a Cooper. - -- -Lee Bussy | The 4 Basic Foodgroups.... | leeb at southwind.net | Salt, Fat, Beer & Women! | Wichita, Kansas | http://www.southwind.net/~leeb | Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 95 07:40:33 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Old YeastLab yeast?, Weizen yeast, Buckwheat Doug Flagg comments on Timothy L. Burger's problems with lack of activity with a YeastLab yeast starter, and commented on the six month expiration date. I agree that it sounds like less than fresh yeast and have several thoughts on this. First, let me issue a non-standard disclaimer about YeastLab. While I have no interest in it, Dan McConnell is a good friend, and I do benefit from getting free yeast from him for his QC. However, this gives me a good perspective w.r.t. old yeast, (and furthermore I can't be bought for a mere $3.50). I just asked Dan how old some of the yeast was that I've gotten, and he told me as much as a year, the oldest he kept for QC samples. These had, of course, been kept refrigerated the whole time. They started slow, but were viable. The problem occurs after the yeast leaves the lab. Yeast is perishable. Check with your shop and encourage them to pay for 2nd day air shipment. Otherwise they arrive somewhat compromised. And make sure they keep them refrigerated until sold. Fresh yeast is best, but older yeast is a fact of the retail distribution process. If properly handled, it should still be fine, if a little slow getting started. When Timothy's finally got started, he could have grown it a few more times to get a healthy starter. This might have been a good idea even with fresh yeast. I like to start my yeast early enough to get several increases. Another YeastLab topic while I have you on the phone. Andy Ross wonders about Bavarian weizen yeasts other than Wyeast for getting a full clovey, spicey flavor. Wyeast makes two Weizen yeasts. One (3056) is a blend of a neutral yeast and a weizen one. I'd stay away from that one in favor of either their pure strain (3068) or YeastLab W51. Dan has previously posted here the IDs of all of YeastLabs yeasts, and their W51 Bavarian Wheat is Weihenstephan W66. I have been very pleased with it and took a first in last year's Michigan State Fair with a nice, spicey weizen fermented with it. Temperature plays a big part in this, with more banana being produced in the upper 60's and higher. Mid 60's will temper the banana but still give nice spice. I didn't see the post about sulfur from Wyeast's, but I wouldn't worry. Many strains, especially lager yeast, produce this, but it has always blown off for me by the end of the ferment. *** Neil Flatter asks >The last time I was in the area health store I bought a couple of pounds of >buck wheat grain. My original thought was to combine it with the pound of >steel cut oats I also bought to make a Belgian wit beer. It has since >occurred tome that buckwheat pancakes are MUCH darker than whole wheat >pancakes. Does that mean buckwheat would make a darker beer too? I'd also >like to know if I need to malt either of these grains. I suspect that they >both will need to be malted before mashing them. Any opinions out there? First, Neil, you should know that buckwheat is NOT any kind of wheat. It is not even a cereal (Gramineae family); it is in the rhubarb family (Polygonaceae). However, it would probably provide a decent starch source and could be used as an adjunct. I suppose it could be sprouted (malted), but I have no idea what the enzymatic results of that would be. You say that you suspect that both will need to be malted. You weren't going to try to malt steel cut oats, were you? They simply aren't viable after being chopped. (I assume the post about sprouted spent grains was a late April Fool's message). Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 95 08:02:49 EDT From: cem at cadre.com (Chuck E. Mryglot) Subject: Schneider Weisse und Schierlinger Roggen I was just flipping through a current issue of Malt Advocate magazine and noticed a full page ad from B. United International announcong that they are now importing Schneider Weisse and Schierlinger Roggen. Has anyone seen these in the stores? It says that Schneider weisse is unpasturized. Does this mean that the yeast is viable? M. Jackson writes that they bottle with the same yeast they ferment with. Also, I'm interested in trying the rye beer. Has anyone brewed a rye? I've read that it is similar to brewing Weisse, but what type of yeast is appropriate. full of questions chuckm Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 07:18:47 -0600 From: evanms at lcac1.loras.edu (mark evans) Subject: Mashing and Specialty Grains Been a lot of talk ('scuse me, a thread) on whether to mash specialty grains. Here's what I do. Basically I don't. Due to the size of my mash tun, only diastatic or fermentable (convertible?) malts/adjuncts get in the mash (2-row, 6-row, munich, vienna, aromatic, biscuit, wheat, wheat/oat flakes, etc.) For the crystals, blacks, chocolates, roasteds, "special B" (mmmm), and other specialty malts I simply steep during the mash in a separate pan of water "to cover"( a couple quarts) at between 165-85F. I strain out the sweet colored liquor, save the nearly spent grains, and then toss them on top of my sparge when the running is nearly done. I'm happy with the way things turn out. The color and clarity of my beers is always great! brewfully, Mark Evans ========================================================= "I do a lot of different things. I just can't remember what they are right now." Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 06:09:15 MST-0700 From: "Dave Ebert" <DNE at Data.HSC.Colorado.edu> Subject: Roller Mills Without causing another uproar on the bandwidth, could someone please email me with information about Jack's roller mills? Please do not put the reply on the HBD!!! Thanks Dave dne at data.hsc.colorado.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 10:05:08 EDT From: WNXP21A at prodigy.com (MR PETER E MISIASZEK) Subject: Gelatin The thread on gelatin has been very helpful. Does anyone have experience using gelatin with inverted fermenters such as BrewCap or Fermentap? How long does it take the gelatin to "work?" Could it be used in the bottling bucket? Pete Misiaszek brewing BayBeer (inverted) in Newport RI. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 95 10:47:48 EDT From: Pierre Jelenc <pcj1 at columbia.edu> Subject: Gelatin HBD 1705 was full of comments about gelatin, most of them emphasizing that it should not be boiled "because it gets denatured". Reality check, please! Folks, that is utter poppycock! Gelatin _is_ denatured protein: "Denaturation of collagen is the conversion of the rigidly coiled helix to a random coil called gelatin." (Merck Index 11th ed.) Gelatin is made by _boiling_ bones and scraps (NOT hooves, that's keratin!) for hours, typically in a giant pressure cooker. There is not a trace of native secondary structure in gelatin. ObBeer: I used to fine with gelatin. I always boiled it a couple of minutes. It always worked spectacularly well. I stopped doing it because I've come to like hazy beer. It's more nutritious that way. Pierre Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 10:52:59 -0400 From: SBarker309 at aol.com Subject: Subject: Buying Beer in Atlanta As requested, here's a partial list of the better beer locations in Atlanta. John Lock's file also contains lists of restaurants, pubs and homebrew stores worth checking out while in Atlanta. On WWW at <URL:http://www.mindspring.com/~jlock/atlbeer0.html> * Via anonymous ftp to ftp.stanford.edu in /pub/clubs/homebrew/beer/rfdb Copyright (c) 1994-95 by John A. Lock. All rights reserved. This document may be freely distributed in its entirety provided this * Green's Beverages 2612 Buford Hwy. 1/4 mile north of Lenox Rd. Atlanta, GA 404-321-6232 - ------and-------- 737 Ponce de Leon Ave. at intersection with Ponce de Leon Pl. Atlanta, GA 404-872-1109 Mon-Thu 8-11, Fri-Sat 8-11:30 Offering the best beer selection in Atlanta, IMO. * Tower Package Stores 5877 Buford Hwy. Doraville, GA 404-458-3272 - ------and-------- 2161 Piedmont Rd. 1/4 mile south of Lindbergh Dr. Atlanta, GA 404-881-0902 Mon-Sat 8-11:45 Scott Barker Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 07:58:24 +0000 From: "Jim Fitzgerald" <jimfitz at netcom.com> Subject: Bottle Caps in the Boil I have read a couple of posts in the past about using bottle caps in the boil to help even it out some, this sounds like a very clever way to get a little better heat distribution within your brew pot. I've been using a King Kooker regulated burner for a couple of years now and it works really great, execpt the heat of the burner seems to be somewhat concentrated in the center if the brew pot requiring a little bit more heat to get a really good boil (with the lid about halfway on, but I guess that's another story...). It seems like there are a couple of things that I can do here to make this boil a little bit better. First, better heat distribution within the wort. And second, reduce the gas to the burner a little to save energy...I hate it when my gas bottles run out. So, my questions about bottle caps in the boil are as follows: Are there any problems in using bottle caps in the boil that anyone can think of? Here are some concerns that come to mind... Are there any special coatings that are used on bottle caps that can come off in the boil and leach out into the boiling wort? What about the plastic (or whatever material it is) liner inside the bottle cap, could this melt/deteriorate into the wort? Is the metal that the bottle caps are made of a problem in general due to the high pH of the wort? How about the paint that is used on some bottle caps (Relax, Have a Home Brew...etc)? If bottle caps are not a good idea, is anybody using anything else that accomplishes this heat distribution problem in a different way? It would be nice to hear from any of you that have input on this subject. Cheers! Jim - ------------------------- Jim Fitzgerald Los Gatos, CA jimfitz at netcom.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 09:19:33 -0700 From: Farnsworth at eworld.com Subject: 1968 yeast Glen said wyeyeast 1968 took a wort down in 5 days.It just took a 1049 to 1008 in 24 hrs for me!I did use 1 litre of yeast slurry in 15 gals :this was the third repitch of the yield from 2 prior 10 gal batches.Start was from a 1/2 gal starter made from Y yeast smack pack.Killer yeast, tastes great too, very similar to real english ale .I suspect it is Youngs or Fullers . Paul Farnsworth San Antonio Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 09:25:36 -0700 From: Farnsworth at eworld.com Subject: Dave Line Will Self asks about Dave Lines' demise. I was in U.K. at time : it was cancer;rumour was it was all the saccharine in his homebrews. Look at his recipes! Paul Farnsworth San Antonio Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 12:03:22 -0500 From: Russell Mast <rmast at fnbc.com> Subject: Oat, Oak, Rings, and Things > From: Matt_K at ceo.sts-systems.ca > Subject: Oatmeal Stout without head > My assupmtion is that > something in the oats (oils?) is killing the head. I think so. Not sure what you can do for it. Maybe steel cut oats or a different kinds of flaked or rolled oats would do better. When I went to a health food store looking for oats, there were several things which looked very similar. One such thing was called "oat flakes" which were a little more expensive than any of the things labelled "rolled oats". I'm no oaxpert, as I'm fond of saying, but the beer I made with a lb of these oats turned out to have really nice head. Maybe that's just from the lactobacillis. Oops. > From: Yeastbud at aol.com > Subject: American vs. French Oak for kegs > > He also stated > the an oak tree is an oak tree no matter where it grows. I'm not sure about anything else you quote him on, but I'm almost positive this is not true. Several of my relatives are antique collectors and they say there is definately a difference between the oak used in a lot of antique furniture, and some of this stuff is like 1850's, so I doubt that the difference is due to different handling. (Could be...) > I forgot who: > I just noticed that there is a ring around the neck > of my yeast starter bottle. I always get that. I assume it's clingies from the krausen. -Russell Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 11:08:06 -0600 (MDT) From: Kirk Fleming / Metro Technologies <flemingk at usa.net> Subject: ElectroFlocculator/HBD Use - --There was an article possibly in The New Brewer, BT, or Zymurgy that mentioned a device used in making low-alcohol beers--an electrically charged metallic matrix which traps yeast, holding it immobile yet functional. I'm talking commercial set-ups now. If you know where this article is or know abt the device (even if only what it's called), *please* help me via email. To a degree we read the same beer lit, someone must know what I'm talking about. The device had sort of a bio-related sounding name, or maybe something that conjures up the "catalyst" idea. - --Thanks for the help with my Gelatin Problem; another tribute to HBD readership that my newbie question was handled with no condescension. Michael M's yeast starter practice summary (#1705) is also something I cast a vote for. This is an efficient way to get out info when replies are private, so those of us who still need some hand-holding and validation can progress. - ------------------------------------------------------ Kirk R Fleming / Colorado Springs / flemingk at usa.net - ------------------------------------------------------ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 95 13:19:03 EDT From: I stepped inside and didn't see too many faces 13-Apr-1995 1318 -0400 <ferguson at zendia.ENET.dec.com> Subject: re: Oatmeal Stout and head retention >Date: Mon, 10 Apr 95 16:11:45 edt >From: Matt_K at ceo.sts-systems.ca >Subject: Oatmeal Stout without head > >I recently brewed an Oatmeal Stout and the stuff is absolutely >wonderful with the exception that head retention is zip. try adding 1# of wheat malt to the mash. jc Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 95 12:35:32 EST From: guyruth at abq-ros.com Subject: reslts95.txt Let's try this again. I was trying to send the results of the Dukes of Ale Spring Thing as an attached file and it didn't work so here is Try #2. ============================ Automated Message ============================ There was a file attached to this message on the Bulletin Board System. This file attachment has been routed in subsequent messages. ============================= End of Message ============================== Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 14:49:05 -0400 From: SBarker309 at aol.com Subject: Pasta Maker-to-Grain Mill & Honey Ale I can't remember who was searching for information on converting a pasta maker to a grain mill, but it seemed like a cheap way to find out if I would enjoy mashing before spending too much money. The bottom line is most say it will work, but you need to score the rollers so they will grab the grain and pull it through. Unfortunately, when you do this, you ain't got a pasta maker anymore. If you want detailed descriptions on how to do this just go to the stanford archives and retrieve HBD 783. Also more information in HBD 787 and 881. Now a question: I have been looking for a honey ale recipe and can't find anything. Is there a reason (like will the ale yeast poop out or will fermentation take too long) for this or am I just looking in the wrong places? Any suggestions? recipes? TIA Scott Barker Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 13:05:39 -0600 (MDT) From: kevin at wheels.aar.com Subject: Pilsner Enzymes? This is more of a curiosity question.... I used a mexican beer kit, that included a packet of something called "pilsner enzymes". You were to put it in the wort when you pitched the yeast. I've looked around to find any information on this, but haven't found anything by that name. Does anyone know the actual name for this enzyme (a-amylase? I doubt it), and what it's function is? Thanks! Kevin - -- Kevin Hass WB0DPN ! ! PGP public key by request via email kevin at wheels.aar.com ! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 12:56:06 -0700 (PDT) From: ernie sargent <ERNIES at ios.bc.ca> Subject: Recipe for All Grain Smithwicks Ale I'm an extract brewer about to make the jump to all grain and would like to make an Irish Ale al la Smithwicks. I've searched Cats Meow, but didn't see anything that piqued my interest. Anyone out there have a recipe they could e-mail me? TIA ernies at ios.bc.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 15:51:09 EDT From: usfmchql at ibmmail.com Subject: Gelatine/blow-off tube/Oatmeal/Thanks In HBD 1703: >Richard Hampo asks about when to use gelatine... In my experience, gelatine is generally used in the secondary prior to bottling. I've never had to pitch additional yeast due to its use. >molloy at tcpcs2.dnet.etn.com asks about carboy size and blowoff tubes... The bigger the 'boy, the less material will be blown off due to the greater volume available for the kraeusen expansion. Most of the material you wish to blow off rides on top of this kraeusen, so a larger carboy may be able to reap some of the benefits of blow-off with reduced loss of volume (assuming the kraeusen reaches the blow-off outlet). I would recommend you use a tube large enough in diameter that a stopper is not required. This will reduce the likelihood of your tube becoming plugged and the whole thing popping off (or the 'boy exploding). I find a 1" dia tube works well with a carboy. >Pat Humphrey talks about using Oatmeal as a growth medium... PAT! Could you elaborate on this? Oatmeal is a LOT cheaper than agar. A private response is fine if you don't think this is of general interest. > In HBD 1704, Dave Draper shares the results of his brewing water question... Thanks, Dave! As always, the information you've shared will be a great help to all of us! (And thanks to all those that contributed to your efforts!) This one's going on my brewery wall! Brew on! Patrick (Pat) G. Babcock | "Let a good beer be the exclamation point at the usfmchql at ibmmail.com | end of your day as every sentence requires proper (313)46-70842 (V) | punctuation." - PGB (313)46-70843 (F) | Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 1995 15:26:00 -0500 (EST) From: david lawrence shea <dshea at indiana.edu> Subject: Kent Goldings hops I have tried to brew and english type pale twice with very little success. Both recipes used Kent Goldings for finishing, the first only 1/4 oz. (1.040 recipe) and the second used 3/4 oz. with an additional 3/4 ounce dry hopped in the secondary. Both beers were a bit on the bland side, and I was hoping to get that great taste of a Fuller's ESB. Does it take a larger quantity of Goldings hops to equal the taste of more American style hops such as Cascades, Willamette etc.? I would love to have some comments from people who have used Goldings with great success and some tips on how it was done. TIA. David L. Shea Indiana University dshea at ucs.indiana.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 1995 10:26:48 -0400 (EDT) From: Polly Eliza Gongwer <polly at brahms.udel.edu> Subject: Lagering/Fermentables/Dandelion wine Greetings HBD readers. First I would like to thank you all for the wisdom and opinions expressed here. I have learned much about the fine art of homebrew. Even tried the Cranbeery Ale recipe posted a few months ago (and have the cranberry skins on the basement ceiling to prove it!). So now I am making the plunge from lurker to participant with a few questions. Lagering... When brewing a lager, when is the appropriate time to bring the beer to lagering temperature? I have a "Honey-Ginger-Lager" percolating away now, 1 week + after brewing. It took 36+ hours at 65ish degrees F before any activity was evident. I moved it out to the storage shed, which I think is about 50 degrees, 4 days after brewing. It still has a consistent production of CO2. I am planning to rack it to another carboy as soon as I bottle one of the batches occupying the other 3 carboys. (It's fun to have 20 gallons of beer in process!) Non-barley malt fermentables... Another batch of beer, a Weizen, and the Honey-Ginger-Lager, both seemed to take a very long time to start fermenting. For the Weizen I used a dry ale yeast (14g) hydrated in cooled boiled water with a bit of corn sugar. The yeast was active at pitching time. The fermentation took about 24 hours to get started. The Lager used a Wyeast #???? Bavarian Lager where the bag was bulged to maximum capacity. Hindsight being 20-20, I guess I should have made a starter for the liquid yeast, but I am NOT a patient person (I only used the Wyeast because my Homebrew store was out of dry Lager yeast). So, I guess my question is, when using "sugars" which take longer to ferment (such as honey and wheat), is there any way to get the fermentation started sooner to avoid potential infection? I'm figuring that if the "official" yeast takes a long time to start with the fermentation, the wild ones also take longer and the longer start time isn't really a problem. My significant other seems paranoid about it though, so I thought I would ask. Dandelion Wine.... Finally, with spring in the air, those little yellow weeds are popping up. I was wondering if anyone has a recipe for Dandelion wine. It would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for the input, and thanks for the informative dialog. Polly at brahms.udel.edu Return to table of contents
Date: 14 Apr 95 10:58:20 EDT From: Randy Erickson <74763.2312 at compuserve.com> Subject: Old Peculier <Insert shameless suckup here> I'm planning to make a dark pale ale along the lines of Old Peculier using Dave Line's extract recipe. The recipe calls for 4 lbs of Dark extract and 2 lbs of dark brown sugar plus specialty grains, sacharin, and treacle to prime. Does this malt/sugar mix sound appropriate, or am I going to end up with Porter-Cider? Any other combinations of malts and kettle sugars? Any thoughts on which Wyeast? My guess would be London Ale. Finally, how many little packets of the "pink stuff" equals one sacharin tablet? I haven't seen those things in years. What about the "blue stuff"? Dextrine powder? Thanks -- Randy Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1707, 04/17/95