HOMEBREW Digest #1718 Sat 29 April 1995

Digest #1717 Digest #1719

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Kegging and bottling (Ray Robert)
  Homemade Enzymes/Banged up Enamel/Gout/Microwave use (Rich Larsen)
  Brass and Stainless ("Palmer.John")
  Questions on: yeast, areation, tubing, idophor (Jason Meredith)
  Re: coyote?? ("Marc Hugentobler")
  More on microwaving (I Gelman)
  Filters (barber eric stephen)
  Growing Hops? / JustHops Phone#? (EricHale)
  MiniKeg bombs ("Glen R. Geisen")
  Microwave Sanitation... (ELQ1)
  fruit beers & artificial sweets (Brian L. Thorn)
  full mash time (Mark Bellefeuille)
  Bunches of stuff (JOHNMAJ)
  UNYHA Contest Winners (Kaltenbach)
  "denatured" gelatin & sprouting malt (Tom Clifton)
  AOB Mirror site in Australia (Aidan "Krazy Krausen Kropping Kiwi" Heerdegen)
  Microwaves - No Good! (Michael D. Galloway)
  RE: Gott Cooler Mash Tuns (Art McGregor)
  re: Recirculation and Baroque Worries... (usfmchql)
  carboy covers (LeRoy S. Strohl)
  Free Advertising on the HBD (Steven W. Schultz )
  chipped pot / suds grain table (Jay Weissler)
  Re: The Robot (harry)
  Is My Beer Ruined? (Norman Pyle)
  Oatmeal usage (MYETTE)
  Warning! E-mail virus? (harry)
  El cheapo carboy covers (Richard B. Webb)
  First Decoction/Budmillcoors stench? (Jeff Stampes)

****************************************************************** * POLICY NOTE: Due to the incredible volume of bouncing mail, * I am going to have to start removing addresses from the list * that cause ongoing problems. In particular, if your mailbox * is full or your account over quota, and this results in bounced * mail, your address will be removed from the list after a few days. * * If you use a 'vacation' program, please be sure that it only * sends a automated reply to homebrew-request *once*. If I get * more than one, then I'll delete your address from the list. ****************************************************************** ################################################################# # # YET ANOTHER NEW FEDERAL REGULATION: if you are UNSUBSCRIBING from the # digest, please make sure you send your request to the same service # provider that you sent your subscription request!!! I am now receiving # many unsubscribe requests that do not match any address on my mailing # list, and effective immediately I will be silently deleting such # requests. # ################################################################# Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), then you MUST unsubscribe the same way! If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu ARCHIVES: An archive of previous issues of this digest, as well as other beer related information can be accessed via anonymous ftp at ftp.stanford.edu. Use ftp to log in as anonymous and give your full e-mail address as the password, look under the directory /pub/clubs/homebrew/beer directory. AFS users can find it under /afs/ir.stanford.edu/ftp/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer. If you do not have ftp capability you may access the files via e-mail using the ftpmail service at gatekeeper.dec.com. For information about this service, send an e-mail message to ftpmail at gatekeeper.dec.com with the word "help" (without the quotes) in the body of the message.
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 27 Apr 95 13:16:00 PDT From: Ray Robert <rayr at bah.com> Subject: Kegging and bottling I have a question(s) to pose to the brew masses: I am getting ready to keg for the first time and had a question about kegging and bottling. I would like to keep a few bottles around for friends, parties etc. but I want to keg the majority of the beer. My question is this: Is it better to prime the entire batch for the keg, carbonate and then fill the bottles using a counterpressure bottle filler or to prime the keg and bottles separately. I figure I would put the sugar in the corny keg and then siphon in the beer and carbonate. I would prime each bottle individually. Another question I have is how much to prime (if any) if I were to force carbonate? Also which is better force carbonation or natural (i.e. priming)? I am in no great hurry so I was going to go with the natural process. Inquiring minds want to know. I hope I haven't used up my question allotment with this one post! TIA Robert Ray rayr at bah.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 1995 12:36:32 -0500 From: rlarsen at squeaky.free.org (Rich Larsen) Subject: Homemade Enzymes/Banged up Enamel/Gout/Microwave use >From: kevin at wheels.aar.com Writes : > >I ground 10 oz of malted barley, and tried to keep the temperature below >the breakdown temp of beta-amylase (which begins to breakdown at 149F, >and even more at higher temps). I extracted it by heating it for 15 minutes >at 140F (60C). I obtained 20 oz (600ml) of "extract". > >I had two stuck fermentations. > >#1) 6 gallons stuck at 1.042 (stuck for over two weeks) >#2) 1 gallon stuck at 1.012 (and should go down to 1.002). > >I added 5 oz (150ml) to #2, and 15 oz (450ml) to #1. Both began fermenting >within 2 hours! 24 hours later, #1 was at 1.032, and #2 was at 1.004, and >both hadn't reached peak fermentation yet! It has been several days now, and >the fermentation has pretty much slowed to a snail's pace. The SG's are >now: #1 = 1.020, and #2 = 1.002. > >I considered batch #1 as a loss, and so the addition of unpasteurized >enzyme extract was a risk - but I only had to gain by it! BTW, #1's >OG was 1.090 - I wanted STRONG beer :) Please note, this post is not intended as a flame. After using these procedures... you can consider both batches a wash. Not only have you extracted the enzymes, but you also extracted HUGH amounts of lactobacillus bacteria and other unwanted organisms that live on the malted barley, just waiting for it to get wet. These puppies are just waiting to spoil the beer. Thats why commercial brewers grind and store grain away from the rest of the brewery. I'll be VERY surprised if these beers don't become infected. ******* >From: "Troy Howard" <troy at oculus.jsei.ucla.edu> writes : > >While washing my 33 qt. enamel-on-steel boiling kettle after my last batch, >it slipped from my hands and bounced off the tub. Now there is a (~1/2 inch >diameter) area where the enamel spallated from the steel. > >Does anyone know of an effective method for repairing this damage? > >Any comments on what that small area of raw steel will do to my wort/beer >the next time I brew? I've been using EOS pots since day one. I'm on my third pot now, the first was a 28 qt the second and third 33 qts. I still use all three in spite of a couple of dings. The old 33 qt is missing a handle and is considerable chipped on the inside where the handle was. My main pot also has a chip on the inside bottom edge. There is some metal exposed in all of these pots, but I have not experienced any problem with the metalic off flavor excessive iron is supposed to cause. My next move is to Sanke kegs. ******* Someone wrote a a while back that you can't catch gout from over indulgence and that it is genetic. I suppose that may be true, but as a gout sufferer (I've had one attack and several warnings) I know you can agrivate it by over doing red meats and alcohol. These and other foods increase the amount of uric acid in the blood stream, thus increasing the chance of the crystals forming. BTW If you've never had a gout attack... you don't know pain. ******* >From: Robert Parker <parker at mote.ME.Berkeley.EDU> Asks : > >Irwin Gelman talks about microwaving his gelatin growth medium and >mentions that > >'Microwaving is ideal for sterilization as it kills microorganisms and >even spores rapidly, without the side-effect of long-term heating' > >I'd love to hear some discussion of this idea. Last batch I found myself >in immediate need of a funnel, but my plastic one hadn't been sterilized >and even had discolorations from previous use on it. I threw it in the >microwave for a few minutes and then used it. Was I doing any good by >microwaving? If so, why not use this method to sterilize siphon tubing, >yeast culture tubes, airlocks, ....? How long of a microwave is >necessary? Any concern about running the microwave without any liquid in >the oven? This strikes me as an extremely convenient procedure if it >works. I've posted about this before. I've had nothing but good luck with the microwave. I sanitize all my bottles with this method. 1/2 inch water in each, 16 bottles at a time on high for 8 minutes. I also use the microwave to create culture media, yeast starter worts and sterile water for rinsing out the sediment of bottles to culture the yeast. So far, I've had no problems with anything growing besides the yeast I'm trying to culture. Do watch out for super heating water though. You can heat water up past the boint of boiling and it will remain in liquid state until you move it. Then the water will "fold" on itself, create a nucleation point and just about explode out of the container. The same thing will happen if you add anything to the water... like sugar, DME, gelatin, agar... etc For a quick sanitization, rinse with hydrogen peroxide and leave a contact time of at least 5 minutes. Provided you don't have any large chunky bits adhereing to the surface. Also ware rubber gloves. Repeated contact with H2O2 really rips up your skin. => Rich <rlarsen at squeaky.free.org> ________________________________________________________________________ Rich Larsen, Midlothian, IL. Also on HomeBrew University (708) 705-7263 Spice is the varity of life. ________________________________________________________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: 27 Apr 1995 10:29:14 U From: "Palmer.John" <palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com> Subject: Brass and Stainless Doh! I knew there was a post I'd meant to respond to... For the best summery I have written to date, see the Nov/Dec '94 issue of Brewing Techniques for my article Brazing and Welding of Stainless Steel. There is also an unedited copy (w/o figures) of it on my web page for those of who dont have access to the magazine. See sig for Homepage info. Some highpoints that Greg wondered about: 1. Brass and Stainless are not exactly galvanically compatible, but usage life should be more than satisfactory because the actual wetting time (therefore corrosion rate due to dissimilar metals in an electrolyte) is short. 2. Brass and Stainless can be successfully Brazed together using Silver Brazing Rod. You need to be aware of the high temperature problems with Stainless and not heat the steel too long while brazing. Try to keep it under 5 minutes. 3. You cant weld Brass to Stainless, only Braze and Solder. Solder works okay, but getting uniform wetting can be a problem if you dont have the right flux. Same goes for brazing really. 4. Consider using Bulkhead threaded fittings with rubber or teflon gaskets as an alternative to permanently attaching the nipples to the keg. This is a good design solution. 5. The only danger from using brass and brazing brass is the Lead and/or Cadmium that can be present in different alloys. American Welding Society specification 5.8, alloy BAg-5 is the recommended brazing alloy for sanitary brazing of stainless steel. Its Pb and Cd free. If any one has any questions relative to their design, drop me a note and I will provide some more guidelines. John J. Palmer - Metallurgist for MDA-SSD M&P johnj at primenet.com Huntington Beach, California Palmer House Brewery and Smithy - www.primenet.com/~johnj/ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 95 12:49:19 -0700 From: Jason Meredith <jason.meredith at mccaw.com> Subject: Questions on: yeast, areation, tubing, idophor I have several questions that I would like to get input from fellow readers of the HBD. Yeast Culturing: I have read everything I can get my hands on (TNCJOHB, Zymurgy Yeast Issue, HBD, rec.crafts.brewing, yeast.faq from ftp.stanford.edu, The Brewer's Companion) and what I really want to know is what level of equipment and sterilization methods do you use. Is it okay to use beer bottles, bottle caps, etc... or should I go for the lab equipment? How about boiling bottles to sterilize? Many methods reccommend pressure cookers. How about stepping-up cultures? Should I risk contamination to pitch a larger amount of yeast? I would of course like to step the culture to pitch as much as possible but I don't want to risk contamination. Re-Using Yeast: I've heard that you can (if you are making similiar beers) areate cooled wort onto the dregs in the secondary, assuming you bottle and brew in the same session. Is this advisable? I've been told not to use the primary as your fresh wort will be sitting on a lot of trub as well as yeast. Of course I understand if your first batch was bad due to yeast your next batch will suffer also. Areating Wort: What is the most effective way to areate wort that you have experienced, other than the fish tank air stone. I have heard about the method of a piece of racking tube with holes in it. Will this restrict the flow from my wort chiller? I am using a 1/4" counter-flow (yea, I know, I should have use 3/8") chiller and I definitely don't want to slow down the flow. Any other ideas? High Temps and Vinyl Tubing: Will high temp liquids extract off flavors from food grade vinyl tubing? Can I feel safe transferring boiling wort through vinyl tubing? Idophor: I've just switched from chlorine bleach to Idophor and I'm so very happy. I do have a question though. Do I need to rinse after using an Idophor solution? As my paranoid self, I have been rinsing with boiling water. Is this necessary? How about cleaning bottles? I think I will continue with the overnight bleach solution soak for bottles to make sure all the residue is loosened for the rinse. Thanks in advance, Jason Meredith Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 1995 14:14:18 GMT+700 From: "Marc Hugentobler" <MARHUG at TELECOM.USU.EDU> Subject: Re: coyote?? Hey now, That ol' rascally coyote dun went off'n got married, got a jog an a house all in a relatively short time.(And not nescessarily in that order) Last I heard he was workin' and pursuin' one of them there masters degrees. sooo... to make a long story short...I believe he's busy. Mind you, I haven't heard from him for about as long as the rest of ya, but that's the skinny. I've been meanin' to run down the road to try and find his new house, as well as rattle his cage....But I've been busy myself. I'll give him a holler and let him know your all thinkin' about him. happy krausen,. Marc :-):-):-):-):-):-):-) Marhug at telecom.usu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 1995 16:19:27 -0500 (EST) From: I Gelman <igelman at smtplink.mssm.edu> Subject: More on microwaving Text item: Text_1 To continue the discussion on the use of microwaving for "semi-sterilizaiton": I have successfully used microwaving to sterilize all sorts of plastics and glass fittings. As a rule of thumb, those plastics which are boil-proof (e.g.- polypropylene) can be safely microwaved, in contrast to softer plastics, which might melt. Certain membranes, such as nitrocellulose --which are used in pre- and post-filters in industrial beer and wine-making processes-- have low flash points, and thus might likely catch fire in microwaves. I typically wrap a plastic funnel or glass fitting in microwavable Saran, and zapped it for 5 minutes. If the Saran is not available (or if you're doing things in such a hurry), it's okay to microwave the funnel for 5 minutes, but just don't handle the "business end" directly with your hands. Cheers and happy zpping!! ****************************************** Irwin H. Gelman, igelman at mstplink.mssm.edu ****************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 1995 16:29:50 -0400 (EDT) From: barber eric stephen <barber_e at einstein.eng.ohio-state.edu> Subject: Filters I have always had a problem removing the hot break, hop left overs, and whatever else might be suspended in my wort. I tried the whirlpool method coupled with a simple filtration device, steel scrub pad, with unsatisfactory results. I have also tried to run the wort through a regular collander but this method seems to invite bacteria via air, hands, and who knows what else. I am aware that filters can be bought, but like many homebrewers I am very proud of my ability to build high quality equipment at a fraction of the cost of buying usually inferior products at the store. Does anybody relate? If so I would love to hear some ideas on an effective pre-ferm. filter. Eric Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 1995 17:22:59 -0400 From: EricHale at aol.com Subject: Growing Hops? / JustHops Phone#? I'm sure this has discussed at great lengths. But can anyone direct me to a FAQ (or other appropriate information) for growing your own hops. Also, who's got Just Hops phone number. I know it was in a recent HBD, but I didn't save the number. I figured I could just call 411. They didn't have a listing in Mt. Zion IL. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 1995 11:58:49 -0400 From: "Glen R. Geisen" <glen at picard.al.wpafb.af.mil> Subject: MiniKeg bombs I have been *listening* to HBD for about two weeks now and as a beginning brewer (three extract + grain batches, so far) - the threads have been interesting. Much of it is still over my head, but I'm learning - and having fun. About MiniKegs: I was almost ready to buy when I started following the bomb thread. I am obviously attracted to the minikegs for their convienence of bottling. Are there any good experiences out there? Is the pressure of the mini-CO2 cartridge sufficient to add any carbination, in which case the priming sugars could be be lessened or eliminated? Or is there only sufficient CO2 pressure to pump? The MiniKeg sounds like a good intermediate step for those of us that don't have the room or $$ to go to a soda keg. Are there any other, say novice, options - or should we (I) stick with bottles? - -- === Glen R. Geisen Email: glen at picard.al.wpafb.af.mil Sytronics, Inc. Tele : +1 513-429-1466 x117 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 95 15:10:55 PDT From: ELQ1%Maint%HBPP at bangate.pge.com Subject: Microwave Sanitation... Robert Parker brought up the subject of microwave sanitation, a subject that is discussed every now and then, and on killing microganisms, I don't think so.. here's my experince. We have all heard of the expolding frogs, mice, etc. Well the recent heavy rains on the Ca. north coast brought small ants into my kitchen, I had wrapped a burrito in paper towel and zapped in the microwave for two minutes, I opened the paper towel and here was two ants doing what ants do, scurrying about in search of food, ants may not contain enough moisture to be heated, and microrganisms are quite a bit smaller, my consensus, microwaves work good on burritos, but not ants. Ed Quier ELQ1 at PGE.COM 707-444-0718 wk. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 1995 16:48:47 -0600 From: bthorn at nmsu.edu (Brian L. Thorn) Subject: fruit beers & artificial sweets Mark Ruhe asks about putting raspberries in his wheat beer: This question comes up periodically on the Digest and there are many opinions out there on the subject. I strive to strike a balance between quality homebrew and outright laziness. Given that philosophical bent, I have achieved excellent results with many batches of raspberry beer by adding 3-12 oz. bags of frozen berries straight into the secondary fermenter about 5-7 days before bottling. Of course, there is some risk of infection but I believe it is low due to the level of alcohol built up during primary fermentation and the cleaning/processing of the berries during packaging. I was originally worried that the small amount of sugar added to the raspberries during processing (maybe you can find some without it) would produce undesirable attributes but this has not been the case. At most, it may produce a slightly sweeter flavor due to the fact that sucrose is not easily broken down by yeast (this is not such a bad thing in a fruit beer). Regarding the thread on the use of artificial sweeteners: From my perspective, one of the great things about homebrew is the lack of artificial or otherwise highly processed chemical shit in the product. It's sort of hypocritical since I occasionally drink Diet Coke, but I don't want any of that stuff in MY beer. To each his (or her) own. ********************************** *Brian L. Thorn, Ph.D. * *New Mexico State University * "...but it's a dry heat." *(505)646-2731, bthorn at nmsu.edu * ********************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 1995 16:26:40 -0700 From: Mark Bellefeuille <mcb at mcdpxs.phx.mcd.mot.com> Subject: full mash time My personal best is four hours: but, not all on one day. I measured everything the night before. My wife lit my 170K burner under the pre-measured water 30mins before I got off work. I dumped the grains in and started timing at 6pm. 1hr mash 1hr sparge 1hr boil 1hr to cool it, pitch, and clean up. This was a weeknight; and, no I try not to do this kind of brew very often. But in that case, I had just been told that the party had been scheduled and that I had been 'volunteered' as the beer supplier. It was a fine ale based on Miller's Ordinary Bitter. I recommend Miller's book 'Brewing the Worlds Great Beers' (close i think) to all beginners and aspiring all-grainers. He does a good job explaining what to do, as well as what you want to happen... later, mark - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Mark C. Bellefeuille mcb at phx.mcd.mot.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 1995 22:17:42 -0400 From: JOHNMAJ at aol.com Subject: Bunches of stuff First just another data point on the green, brown glass thread. I had a friend who used to repair the case gluing machinery at Rolling Rock. He was talking to the brewmaster one day, and the brewmaster remarked that he considers there beer skunked if it is exposed to 5 minutes of bright sunlight, and had data from blind tastings to back this up. Next someone says I should use a step up transformer to step up my 120v to 240v for use with my RIMS system. This will not work for a variety of reasons. First at 240v that 5500w heater element will try to draw almost 23 amps. Since you are steping up to twice the voltage, that means you would have to draw almost 50 amps out of your 120v line. Also the heating chamber that the heater is in only holds about a quart of wort. If you put 5500w of heat in there you would very quickly scorch, and or boil your beer. To prove this out, the first time we used our system, we accidently turned off our pump without turning off our heat. In less than 5 seconds we had steam flying out of the hoses, and a distinct burnt smell. Upon removing the heating element, it was covered with black burnt caramels. Also one thing to remember with a RIMS system is that you are heating the liquid part of the mash. It is this part that contains all the enzymes in the mash, that's why the first decoctions, in a decoction mash are the thick third of the mash. If you take this thin part above 170, then you risk deactivating your enzymes. Next on the round Gott cooler thread. I say that if you have a stuck sparge, the chances are that the thickness of you grain bed probably have little to do with it. I remember reading somewhere that A-Bs grain beds are 6 to 8 feet deep, and have personally seen a homemade lauter tun that had a 2 to 3 foot grain bed. In my opinion the leading cause of stuck sparges would be improper grinding of the grain. Not long ago we were making a stout, and decided to get rid of some 1 LB bags of grain that were laying around. We put in 3 pounds of this grain into a 65 pound mash. As soon as we recirculated the mash stuck like crazy. My advice is get your grain ground elsewhere, or put your crushed grain into a grain bag, and shake out the powder. On to all this talk of Private E-mail responses being just as big a part of the HBD as posters. I my opinion I will post the following. Take it as a flame if you want, although its not intended that way. I have been receiving the HBD for 1 month now. This totals up to 1.5 Megs. Since I have 300 megs free on my new 515 meg $215 drive, I calculate that I can put 343 more months of the HBD on it without resorting to floppy disks. My point being that I think that many other people would be interested in hearing what you have to say, so why not post it. Disk space is cheap, and getting cheaper, your extra bandwidth will not break the bank. By the way all these private E-mails, are teaching me squat, since I get none. Also if you are doing something wrong, how would you know since the only person receiving you E-mail obviously doesn't know, since he asked the question? P.S. On the LB-FT, FT-LB thread. NO NOT THAT AGAIN, ANYTHIG BUT THAT, PLEASE NO, AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 1995 22:49:35 -0400 From: Kaltenbach at aol.com Subject: UNYHA Contest Winners Upstate New York Homebrewers Association 17th Annual Competition and 6th Empire State Open Contest held April 22, 1995 Total No. of Entries: 208 - ------------------------------------------------------------------- COMPETITION WINNERS - ------------------------------------------------------------------- British Ale Dark Lager 1. Bob Marsh 1. Todd & Wendy Colin 2. Jim Taylor 2. Manny Holl 3. Dave Manley 3. Dave Manley North American Ale Belgian 1. Al Schichler 1. Bruce Franconi 2. Frank Caico 2. Chuck & Wendy Bryant 3. Frank Caico 3. Kirk Frieh Brown Ale Mead 1. Manny Holl 1. John Grana 2. Lyn Howard 2. David Wunder 3. Bruce Franconi 3. Kirk Frieh Porter & Stout Looks Like "Saranac Pale Ale" 1. Bill Shakespeare 1. Charles Knickerbocker 2. Karen Miller 2. Tom Thompson & Al Rickett 3. Russell Vacchetto 3. John Nelson Light Lager Specialty 1. David Wunder & Frank Caico 1. Tom Thompson & Al Rickett 2. Manny Holl 2. Andrew Jones 3. Robert Graser 3. Jim Taylor Amber Lager Best of Show 1. David Chapus 1. David Wunder & Frank Caico 2. David Chapus 2. David Chapus 3. Craig Pinhey 3. Tom Thompson & Al Rickett Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 95 22:49 EST From: Tom Clifton <0002419419 at mcimail.com> Subject: "denatured" gelatin & sprouting malt - -- [ From: Tom Clifton * EMC.Ver #2.2 ] -- o GELATIN I'm no food scientist, but every time I make Jello I always add it to boiing water, dump in ice cubes and the stuff always seems to set for me. I would have to believe that I too have been taken by the urban myth of not boiling my Knox gelatin that works so well as a fining agent. o SPROUTING MALT What's the possibility that the grains of "malt" that sprouted in the 100 grain example were abe to survive the malting and kilning process as they were part of the ungerminated grains that the maltster had. I believe that germination numbers in the high 90% range are quoted for "quality" malt. If grain from the Pharoh's tomb can be sprouted after many centuries I bet that an unsprouted barley corn heated to 190 degrees has some kind of a chance of survival. Also - in the 100 grain test - did that grain by any chance make hazy beer? If there is much unconverted starch in your wort you may well have problems down the line. WHAT A THEAD!! Tom Clifton St. Louis, MO Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 95 14:04:06 EST From: Aidan "Krazy Krausen Kropping Kiwi" Heerdegen <aidan at rschp2.anu.edu.au> Subject: AOB Mirror site in Australia Full-Name: Aidan "Krazy Krausen Kropping Kiwi" Heerdegen Hello all (well the Aussie brewers more specifically) I have agreed to set up a mirror site for the Association Of Brewers WWW pages. The URL is http://rschp2.anu.edu.au:8080/aidan/aob/aha.html I know alot of their pages contain merchandise, and some of you might not like them, well I care not .. I am just posting to inform Aussie brewers that they now have a quick connection available. They do have some interesting material (style guidelines etc). Did I miss anything while I was booted off the digest??? Cheers Aidan e-mail: aidan at rschp2.anu.edu.au, Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 07:37:56 -0400 From: mgx at ornl.gov (Michael D. Galloway) Subject: Microwaves - No Good! I asked my wife (PhD, Cell Biology) to investigate the use of microwaves as a sterilization/sanitation method. Both she and her Microbiologist colleague agree that microwave ovens are inappropriate for sanitation. The microwaves have little or no effect on mold/fungi spores and may have little effect on many strains of bacteria. michael galloway - oak ridge tennessee >Date: 26 Apr 95 17:34:00 -0500 >From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) >Subject: Microwave for sterilization/PureSeal bottlecaps > >Irwin writes: >>Microwaving is ideal for >>sterilization as it kills microorganisms and even spores rapidly, >>without the side-effect of long-term heating... > >Are you absolutely sure? I've read various things about microwaves >and sanitation/sterilization, but none of them definitive. Could >someone else support or deny Irwin's claim? Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 08:37:53 -0400 (EDT) From: Art McGregor <mcgregap at acq.osd.mil> Subject: RE: Gott Cooler Mash Tuns I've used a 7 gal gott cooler for about 6 batches so far, which is same diameter as the 10 gal gott. My mashtun consists of the larger Phils Phalse Bottom, connected by a 3" piece of 3/8 ID vinyl tubing to a 7-8" piece of 3/8 OD copper pipe (left over from making my immersion chiller), which fits into a stopper (the size that fit into top of 12 oz bottles). To get the stopper to fit properly, you need to leave the rubber gasket in the gott after the spigot is removed. | | Gott Bottle Stopper | | <---Cooler Phil's Phalse Bottom \ ___| | Wall \ Copper Tubing \| \__ \ _____-------------_________________________________|______\_______ \ | ___ Vinyl Tubing_________________________________ ______ _______ __| |__ ------------- | __/ ____/ \_______ |___/ | / \_________ | | Phils Phalse Bottom \__________________ | | \ | | The gott spigot can be removed with pliers or adjustable wrench, but make sure you hold the outside of the spigot to keep it from turning when you loosen the plastic nut on the inside of the gott. I believe that any size Phil's Phase bottom will work, just place on bottom of cooler and attach above pieces. The dome shaped Phase Bottom will keep grains out and provide enough space for hot liquor to collect, but not so much that you have lots left behind at the end of the sparging. Hope this helps :^) Hoppy Brewing Art McGregor (mcgregap at ac.osd.mil) Northern Virginia, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 08:51:55 EDT From: usfmchql at ibmmail.com Subject: re: Recirculation and Baroque Worries... >>In HBD 1717, Will self ponders recirculation and dust-bunnies... Until the pot is at room temperature, I would imagine that it creates an up-draft above it preventing any dust to fall. Granted, this barrier would become smaller and smaller as the wort's temperature decreases, but so will the thermal contraction. The only way to be totally secure is to resort to a counter-flow chiller of some sort. But then, there are other sources of contamination... On recirculating the wort: this would provide a more homogenous wort (assuming the recirculation begins prior to draining the boiler); however, there are no means to prevent gravity stratification in the fermenter. I have found this to be of little concern with moderate gravity, full boils; and therefore think it would be of little use. Particularly if a CF chiller is used. (My opinion.) During the boil, recirculation (without aeration) may prevent caramelization and reduce the need for stirring. Interesting thought! Drink all you want - I'll brew more! Best regards, Patrick G. Babcock Michigan Truck Plant PVT Office usfmchql at ibmmail.com 38303 Michigan Avenue (313)46-70842 (V) -70843 (F) Wayne, MI 48184 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 8:57:33 EDT From: LeRoy S. Strohl <lstrohl at s850.mwc.edu> Subject: carboy covers Two years ago my wife very thoughtfully made me a set of fitted carboy covers (6.5 gal primary and 5 gal secondary) out of some navy blue terry cloth towels. Referred to as "carboy cozies" because they are a bit like tea pot cozies. She used a series of snaps for the closures. The opening is also great for looking in to see the temperature reading on the Fermtemp adhesive backed thermometer. In the summer I can set the whole rig in a shallow pan of water to assist in evaporative cooling if the temperatures in the cellar seem too warm. - -- Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 95 9:17:24 EDT From: Steven W. Schultz <swschult at cbda9.apgea.army.mil> Subject: Free Advertising on the HBD Recently, I have noticed some obvious self-promotion on the HBD by "Bill the Beer Man" whose moniker describes his business, includes his phone number, and provides an e-mail address for getting one of his catalogs. I have been waiting patiently for some of the digest's heavyweights to pitilessly flame this huckster to ashes. I just KNEW that some of our more effusive "poster-children" (e.g., CPT K) wouldn't leave this thankless task for a lurker... but I was wrong. I THOUGHT that the HBD was not intended to be used as a medium for free advertising. If it is, I'll immediately revert to "lurker" status. Steve Schultz Aberdeen, Maryland - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- "At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child - miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied, demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless. Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats." P.J. O'Rourke - ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 95 08:47:52 -0500 From: jay_weissler at il.us.swissbank.com (Jay Weissler) Subject: chipped pot / suds grain table Some manufacturers may use antimony, cadmium or lead to bond the enamel to the steel in an enamel pot. These may be exposed if the pot gets cracked or chipped. Check with the manufacturer about the pot's safety. I just downloaded (actually my buddy Ray did) a copy of suds. This software is very nicely done, but is missing in two areas from my perspective. The first may be easily remedied. Does anyone have a more complete grain maintenance table? I think that's its name... you know the table with the color, etc? I haven't decided if I care about the other problem (that my mash temp schedule isn't supported). TIA jayw Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 09:58:29 -0400 From: hbush at pppl.gov (harry) Subject: Re: The Robot I understand the Robot is fueled by coriander. Can anyone verify this? (Oh my God, I've probably lost beaucoup points for this post!). Harry .............................................. "If it bleeds, we can kill it!"- Arnold S. .............................................. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 95 8:32:30 MDT From: Norman Pyle <npyle at hp7013.ecae.StorTek.COM> Subject: Is My Beer Ruined? *** The Official HBD "Is My Beer Ruined?" FAQ *** Q: The lid blew off my fermenter and coated the ceiling with wort. Is my beer ruined? A: The beer is not ruined, but the ceiling is, as is as your relationship with your wife, landlord, or parents (whoever owns the ceiling). Q: My beer has been fermenting for a month and still bubbles every few seconds. Is my beer ruined? A: The Amazing Kreskin unsubscribed from the HBD so you'll have to taste it to find out. Better yet, send it to me, postpaid, and I'll tell you. Q: My beer has ropes in it, smells like vomit, and looks like it has evolved into an intelligent being. Is my beer ruined? A: Yes. Q: I pitched my yeast while the wort was 211 degrees F. Did I hurt my yeast? Is my beer ruined? A: Your yeast was not hurt, but has subsequently run away from home due to your total lack of understanding of their problems. Pitch some more yeast, and this time LISTEN to what they have to say. Your beer may not be ruined. Q: I forgot to add the _________ (PICK ONE) a)hops b)extract c)yeast d)water Is my beer ruined? A: a)You have committed the 8th deadly sin, but it can be fixed. b)You didn't make beer, you made tea. c)Maybe. Refer to 211 degree yeast above. d)No, but it will make good pancake syrup. Hope this helps! ;o) Norm Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 10:36:04 -0400 (EDT) From: MYETTE at delphi.com Subject: Oatmeal usage I have a recipe I want to try that calls for "Oatmeal", it of course doesn't tell me what type or kind of Oatmeal. So I'm asking if someone out there can tell me what type of oatmeal to use? and what brand is good for brews Myette at delphi.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 10:45:28 -0400 From: hbush at pppl.gov (harry) Subject: Warning! E-mail virus? I just received this message from our network folks. I'm not sure of its validity, but am passing it along in an effort to ensure the continued health of the HBD: > "There is a new computer virus that is being sent across the >>>>Internet. >>>> If you receive an email message with the subject line "Good Times," >>>> DO NOT read the message. DELETE it immediately. Please read the >>>> messages >>>> below. >>>> >>>> Some miscreant is sending email under the title "good times" >>>> nation-wide. If you get anything like this, DON'T DOWNLOAD THE >>>>FILE! >>>> It has a virus that rewrites your hard drive, obliterating >>>>anything on >>>> it. Please be careful and forward this mail to anyone you care >>>>about. >>>> >>>> Thought you might like to know... >>>> >>>> The FCC released a warning last Wednesday concerning >>>> a matter of major importance to any regular user of the Internet. >>>> Apparently, a new computer virus has been engineered by a user of >>>> America Online that is unparalled in its destructive capability. >>>> Other, more well-known viruses such as Stoned, Airwolf, and >>>> Michaelangelo pale in comparison to the prospects of this newest >>>> creation by a warped mentality. >>>> >>>> What makes this virus so terrifying, said the FCC, is the fact >>>>that no >>>> program needs to be exchanged for a new computer to be infected. >>>>It >>>> can be spread through the existing e-mail systems of the InterNet. >>>> Once a computer is infected, one of several things can happen. If >>>>the >>>> computer contains a hard drive, that will most likely be destroyed. >>>> If the program is not stopped, the computer's processor will be >>>>placed >>>> in an nth-complexity infinite binary loop, which can severely >>>>damage >>>> the processor if left running that way too long. Unfortunately, >>>>most >>>> novice computer users will not realize what is happening until it >>>>is >>>> far too late. >>>> >>>> Luckily, there is one sure means of detecting what is now known as >>>>the >>>> "Good Times" virus. It always travels to new computers the same >>>>way >>>> in a test e-mail message with the subject line reading simply "Good >>>> Times." >>>> >>>> Avoiding infection is easy once the file has been received - not >>>> reading it. The act of loading the file into the mail server's >>>>ASCII >>>> buffer causes the "Good Times" mainline program to >>>> initialize and execute. The program is highly intelligent - it >>>>will >>>> send copies of itself to everyone whose e-mail address is >>>>contained in >>>> a received-mail file or a sent-mail file, if it can find one. It >>>>will >>>> then trash the computer it is running on. >>>> >>>> The bottom line here is - if you receive a file with the subject >>>>line >>>> "Good Times," delete it immediately! Do not read it! Rest assured >>>> that whoever's name was on the "From:" line was surely struck by >>>>the >>>> virus. >>>> >>>> Warn your friends and local system users of this newest threat to >>>>the >>>> InterNet! It could save them a lot of time and money." >>>> >>>> Please pass this on...especially to anyone you know that uses >>>>"America >>>> Online" regularly. Harry .............................................. "If it bleeds, we can kill it!"- Arnold S. .............................................. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 08:56:04 -0700 From: Richard B. Webb <rbw1271 at appenine.ca.boeing.com> Subject: El cheapo carboy covers The thread of what to use when covering carboys has risen again. We get a lot of suggestions about black garbage bags, paper bags and what not. I've been very happy using old T-shirts that are now too small for me (Never trust a brewer with only one chin...) to cover up my precious worts. This curious sight led my neice to ask why I was dressing up my big bottles. Were they just big dolls without heads? The different color shirts also help me to tell my batches apart. There's nothing worse than losing track of which pils has which yeast in it... Returning to lurking mode, Rich Webb Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 95 09:28:23 MDT From: jeff at neocad.com (Jeff Stampes) Subject: First Decoction/Budmillcoors stench? ** Caution: this post contains a brief, yet thorough description of my first Decoction mash. I post this for the information of those who have not tried it, as well soliciting input from those who have done many of them. If you could give a rat's ass about this, scroll away, and direct any flames to icare at dev.null I was off on the quest for a true weizen yesterday, so after having collected much input from the proverbial collective wisdom (thanks to all, especially Jim Busch) I headed off into the wonderful world of decoction. Grain bill was 8 lbs German Wheat malt and 5 lbs Pils 2-row. A little high, but I was preparing for a low extraction...just in case. I mash in a 42 qt. Coleman cooler, which I preheated with 5 gallons boiling water for 30 minutes. For starters, I doughed in with 7.25 qts 55F and 5.76 qts 190F water (190 is my boiling point) to hit a starting temp of 105F. After holding this for 15-20 minutes, I added 4 qts boiling water to hit a 122F protein rest. After 30 minutes, I used a saucepan to ladle out 10 qts. of a relatively thick grist (calculations of dry and liquid volume showed this to be approx. 1/3 of the mash). I heated this to 152F and held for 20 minues before bringing it to a boil. After boiling 20 minutes, I returned it to the mash, hoping to strike 152-155F. I came in low, so I simply pulled another 5 qt decoction, brought that to a boil and returned it to the mash. This time, it did stablize at 154F. This wouldn't qualify as a 'true' double decoction, since I didn't boil it for any length of time the second time, correct? Anyway, I held the 152-155F for another 45 minutes, and sparged with 5 gallons of 190F water. (I figure that if I start that high, it probably is down to 150F by the time the sparge is done....). After a 90 minute boil with 1.5 oz of 3.2 alpha Hallertau, I chilled and pitched my yeast. All in all, the day was a little longer than my usual step-infusion mashes, but turned out to be a lot easier than I had anticipated...maybe a triple decoction belgian is in my future? 72 Hours after pitching, it went haywire on my. I woke up in the middle of the night to find that the 5 gallon batch was blowing out of the 6.5 gallon carboy having already blown out the airlock. I guess I have to add my testimony to those who have noted #3068's violent fermentation nature! One problem: It's now settling down and I'm about to rack to secondary. I noted that initially it was developing a heavenly banana/clove aroma. Now however, it smells like cheap budmillcoors! Any ideas what may have caused this? I will taste it when I transfer it, but I have never had this happen before. (Not that I;m 'worried'...but maybe a little concerned?) -- Jeff Stampes -- NeoCAD, Inc. -- Boulder, CO -- jeff at neocad.com -- -- Ultimate Frisbee...It's not just for dogs anymore. -- -- Any fool can make bread out of grain...God intended it for beer! -- Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1718, 04/29/95