HOMEBREW Digest #1912 Mon 18 December 1995

Digest #1911 Digest #1913

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  VERY foamy brown ale from a keg (lconrad)
  Frozen Wort (lconrad)
  Infusion Weizen, Wasted Bwith. (Russell Mast)
  SAM stuff (Robert Bush)
  E.S.B. recipe (Alejandro Midence)
  RE:Sake style rice wine ("Kevin T. Riutort")
  Re:Is it true that... (Todd W. Roat)
  First Recipe Help (michael & karen)
  Enough about Jim Koch and his suits (Bruce Conner)
  foamy brown ale (John Parker)
  Thermometers / Oven Temp (Kxt1215)
  Propane stopper ejector (John Wilkinson)
  Stone-age  lagering (Eugene Sonn)
  Re: Gearing up for all grain (Jeff Renner)
  RE:  IPA and Oak Chips ("David W. Parkin")
  Sam Adams Austin Lager (Jim Grady)
  oak in IPA ("Tracy Aquilla")
  Cap leakage/Pressure differences ("Thomas A. Wideman")
  RE:phil's sparge arm (Bill Rust)
  splitting boil? (Mike Uchima)
  Help!  Hunter Temp. Controller Woes (Thomas Williams)
  Homebrew Coffee Grinders???? (Stephen_W._Snyder)
  re: Question about steam generators (C.D. Pritchard)
  RIMS heater pipe (C.D. Pritchard)
  NG Water Heater Element (SSLOFL)
  What does this have to do with HB (dludwig)
  Re/dancing bubbles (dludwig)
  brewpubs and Budweiser (FLATTER)
  Step Mashing in Picnic Cooler (Michael Genito)
  Winter Lager ("Dave Bradley::IC742::6-2556")
  Milk tanks as fermenters (Ulick Stafford)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 14 Dec 1995 17:02:39 -0500 From: lconrad at apollo.hp.com Subject: VERY foamy brown ale from a keg I tried it for the first time last night. When poured through my dandy new tap, it came out almost completely as head - a very Guinness-like foamy head. It took at least 20 minutes for the beer to settle down enough for a taste. What's causing the problem... My beer (very possible, I haven't done this very many times) My new tap? Any ideas? This happens to everybody all the time. If your beer tastes ok when it does settle down, your beer is probably fine. What it means is that the pressure of CO2 dissolved in the beer so high that when it leaves the keg, it comes out of solution into millions of little bubbles. The solution is to relieve the pressure in the keg. You should have bought kegs with a valve for doing this. (mine is a little ring in the center of the cap, which I pull to allow the pressure to escape.) You will have to operate the valve several times, as once you relieve the pressure, then more CO2 can come out of solution, creating more pressure. Make sure the CO2 tank is not connected when you do this. If you fill the keg too full, you will have to wait before doing it again, as the head space in the keg is full of foam, which oozes, or even gushes, out of the pressure relief valve. I just put up with my new kegs producing a lot of foam for the first couple of days. In order to not have the problem next time, you should consider your priming procedures. I am effectively using my kegs as secondary fermenters (the fermentation lock is still glugging every 10 seconds or so when I keg). So I find I don't have to prime at all, and I still get lots of foam. There is also a lot of folklore about length of line from keg to tap, magic black line, and maybe some other things. I haven't ever experimented with these, but I know I have gotten foamy beer from other people's kegs with various lengths and colors of line. I believe that the only people who avoid the problem completely are those who do not use their kegs as secondary fermenters (or transfer to a new keg when fermentation is complete), and force carbonate very carefully. I find these procedures more trouble than a little foam. Anyway, cheer up. Inside of a week you'll be swearing because you have to apply more pressure to get any head at all. (This is assuming you do what I do and dispense with the pressure in the keg, rather than keeping the CO2 tank connected.) Laura Snail Mail: ------- Laura Conrad Hewlett-Packard Co. | / Phone: (508) 436-4243 300 Apollo Drive | / Internet: lconrad at apollo.hp.com Chelmsford, Ma 01824 | /___ Mail stop: chr-01-fo |_______ Fax: (508) 436-5117 -------- Home: (617) 661-8097 233 Broadway, Cambridge, MA 02139 lconrad at world.std.com Work voice mail: (800) 552-8922 x4243 Reply-To: lconrad at world.std.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 1995 17:28:14 -0500 From: lconrad at apollo.hp.com Subject: Frozen Wort Rob writes: Regarding that wild yeast in my fridge, anythoughts on harnessing it as a potential "Guelph lambic" yeast or should I just ignore or destroy it? I suppose I could go to the trouble of finding out what genus and species it is but that sounds like a lot of work and favours to call in. And yes I know fermenting with an unknown yeast isn't the safest idea but where do you think our brewing ancestors got their yeast from, Smack packs :). It would probably make a lousy beer (or whatever), has anyone tried this? When the wild yeast in my refrigerator ferments unprocessed apple cider, it does a very good job. Quite pleasant flavor, good head, no lambic character at all. So I wouldn't worry about trying it on a small amount of wort, although I wouldn't expect to come out with Pilsener Urquell, either. Laura Snail Mail: ------- Laura Conrad Hewlett-Packard Co. | / Phone: (508) 436-4243 300 Apollo Drive | / Internet: lconrad at apollo.hp.com Chelmsford, Ma 01824 | /___ Mail stop: chr-01-fo |_______ Fax: (508) 436-5117 -------- Home: (617) 661-8097 233 Broadway, Cambridge, MA 02139 lconrad at world.std.com Work voice mail: (800) 552-8922 x4243 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 1995 16:37:21 -0600 From: Russell Mast <rmast at fnbc.com> Subject: Infusion Weizen, Wasted Bwith. > From: Bill Pemberton <wfp5p at tigger.itc.virginia.edu> > Subject: Decoction for weizen > > Is a decoction mash required for a weizen? ... > If an infusion mash is possible, what about a single step infusion? The best weizen I ever brewed was a single-step infusion. Would it have been better if I had used a decoction? Maybe. Was it yummy as heck? You bet. Of course, I brewed a pretty darned good Bock once with a single step infusion, but let's > From: dludwig at ameritel.net > Subject: Subjects unrelated to Homebrewing > Here's another solution. How about if everyone who posts, stop first and > consider whether their post is directly related to homebrewing? ^^^^^^^^ > A lot of bandwidth has be devoted lately to subjects I would consider > irrelevent to homebrewing. Something to think about. Have a beer! -Dave ^^^^^^^^^^ There's a pretty wide chasm between "directly related" and "totally irrelevant". The only post *I* have seen lately that is -totally- irrelevant is YOURS. It certainly isn't about homebrewing, I'm not really sure what it's about. If you or anyone has a problem with wasting bandwidth here, I think perhaps wasting bandwidth isn't the best solution for it. Every post here has a private e-mail address associated with it. (I know for sure that private e-mails to me can cut down my posting, but public posts will only draw more noise out - case in point, this e-mail.) -Russell, rmast at fnbc.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 1995 23:50:13 +0100 From: bush at shbf.se (Robert Bush) Subject: SAM stuff I haven't followed the thread so I won't say much about it, but.... SAM ADAMS SAM HOUSTON are similar names. Similar to the original SAMUEL SMITH of Tadcaster, England that started brewing before Americas first buffalo saw the light of day. SAM SMITH should sue the asses of the above, as far as I'm concerned. Sorry if this is off topic. I'll try not to do it again. ==================================== = WASSAIL! = = Robert Bush, Eskilstuna, SWEDEN = = E-mail: bush at shbf.se = ==================================== Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 1995 18:39:04 -0600 From: Alejandro Midence <alex at conline.com> Subject: E.S.B. recipe Hi, hbders, My good friend Mark droped by about an hour ago and brought me a sixpack of his latest batch, an ESB he calls "batch no. 14" which tasted really incredible. It was quite complex and I asked or rather begged him to give me the recipe. Here it is. It's by no means an orthodox *english* esb but here it is: ibu: around 32-33 Yield: 5 gallons Method: extract and specialty grains ingredients: 6 lbs munton amber dry malt extract 1 lb crystal 40l 1.5 oz. Kent goldings (5.3 alpha) 60 mins 0.5 oz. Fuggles 4.5 alpha 30 mins 1 oz. Tetnanger 5.0 alpha 15 minns 1 oz. czech saaz 3.5 alpha 5 mins 1/2 c cornsugar priming 1 tbsp gypsum 1/2 tsp irish moss Wyeast 1028 London ale yeast or british 1094 works well Put crystal in 1.5 gal water and bring to boiling. In a 1 qt vessel, scoop up some of the water and pour through the grains. He says it's to get the most flavour out of them. Remove grains and add gypsum. Now, add dme. Bring water to boil and add goldings hops. Wait thirty minutes and add Fuggles. Wait twenty minutes and add tetnanger. Five minutes later, add Saaz which will be boiled for five minutes and then steeped for ten at 170 dg. og: 1.050 fg: 1.014 It turned out spectacular, the saaz making it smell wonderfully and the spiciness of the tetnanger contributing a delightfuly different flavor than I'm accustomed to in ESB's. It had an wonderful head. Y'all take care now, Alex <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> Some folk o'er the water think bitter is fine, And otheres, they swear by the juice of the vine. But there's nothin' that's squeezed from the grape or the hop Like the black liquidation with the froth on the top!!! <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 1995 20:38:52 -0500 From: "Kevin T. Riutort" <kevin at rust.net> Subject: RE:Sake style rice wine >From: Michael Boenisch <mikebone at charm.net> >Subject: Sake style rice wine > >Does anyone out there know anything about making sake (rice wine)? In Japan >it's made by beer manufacturers like Kirin. I understand the process is >similar. Before I got into home-brewing I talked to a very helpful, but hard to understand, Chinese fellow in an oriental market in Blacksburg, VA about brewing my own rice wine. Apparently, many Chinese-Americans home-brew their own sake (sake, b.t.w., is technically a beer). Here is the crude process which I followed: 1) Combine two cups of cooked sweet-rice with two cups of water. 2) Place contents in a 1-quart mason jar. 3) Add one package of a chalky, unidentifiable powder recommended by an old Chinese man. (Available at you local oriental market; presumably some sort of yeast culture.) 4) Seal lid on jar and place in the refrigerator. 5) Worry greatly about your personal safety when the lid starts to bulge from fermantation gases. [Disclaimer: due to the danger of explosion, I do not recommend that the reader of this article attempt to re-create the above receipe unless you enjoy glass shards in you neck. This did not happened to me --- but unless your mason jars are built and designed to ASME Boiler code, it is very possible that the jars could explode.] Regarding the home-brewed sake which I made following this gentlman's directions: it _was_ fermented a liquid; it _did_ have an alcholol content; it did _not_ taste even close to the commercial product (I liked it and I drank it :) Knowing what I now know about home-brewint, looking back on the process it is easy to see why my home-brewed sake differed so drastically from the sake available in stores. I have not attemped to brew sake since and I am sorry that I do not have any further information on the subject other than the above anecdote. Good luck. Kevin ================================================================================ kevin at rust.net ================================================================================ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 1995 20:42:23 -0500 From: troat at one.net (Todd W. Roat) Subject: Re:Is it true that... I posted to my curiosity about having been told: "Beer fermenting in a carboy is warmer than the air outside due to the chemical reactions taking place and the energy being produced within." Felt compelled to share the responses (which were suprisingly many). The majority of the responses suggested that there would be no significant temp difference, if any, and suggested I get a thermometer strip to place on my carboy (which I will do) [ Does this strip thermometer on the carboy measure temp of ambient air, the glass of the carboy, the beer within the carboy, or all of the above????] The remainder of the responses (though the minority), thought a 5 degree difference in temp within the carboy during fermentation was a very reasonable assumption - several such opinions were from people who fermented openly (and I dont mean fermented with joyous abandon, in the open so everyone could see). I must admit and emphasize that I am not particularly concerned about whether a few degrees difference will "effect" my ales, I was just curious about the notion after having been told this statement. And whenever I get a question stuck in my head Im forced to seek the answer (so I posed the question to encyclopedia brewtanica). In reality, I guess the answer doesnt matter. If there are any brewers who use open fermentation and who have a brewsite whose room temp remains the same despite season and time of day, you could test this if so inclined :^) Thanks all "Cherish well your thoughts and keep a tight grip on your booze, cause thinkin' and drinkin' are all Ive got today" Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 1995 22:14:50 -0500 From: michael at bashful.einsteininfo.com (michael & karen) Subject: First Recipe Help Hi all. We have been lurking for a while now but this is our first question to the collective. We are new to brewing, about 4 extract batches under our belt. All of these have turned out great. We just tried our first recipe -- a scottish ale. We used 6lbs of british light DME, and some specialty malts as well. We raised the temperature to 180 degrees very slowly to steep the specialty malts. We followed normal brewing procedures, but it took a long time to get the wort to a boil, and then cooked it for 60 min. The long and the short of it is we lost a lot of water to evaporation and the O.G. seemed very high at 1.065 and it was clearly no longer 5 gal of wort. We added enough water to bring the SG down to 1.046 and ended up with just about 5 gal of wort. It has been fermenting like wild and just for fun we checked the specific gravity and it was 1.012 and it tasted a little weak. Furthermore, it is not done fermenting yet. Our question is will the flavor get stronger, and if not is there anything we can do to remedy the situation? Thanks in advance for any help with this matter. Michael & Karen Biohazard Brewing Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 1995 22:52:58 -0500 From: bconner at cybercom.net (Bruce Conner) Subject: Enough about Jim Koch and his suits I'm about to stop reading the HBD. Why? Because there seems to be a lot of bandwidth wasted on back and forth about lawsuits brought by microbreweries against otehr microbreweries. Am I wrong, or is the the Home Brew Digest and not the Micro Brew Digest? I don't care for Jim Koch and his practices, but since he has no bearing on my homebrewing, I don't see why he is being discussed. The past actions of Wyeast, on the other hand, are perhaps suitable for discussion here in HBD. But since that has been hashed to death, what's the point. How about we all smile in an evil way and say, "Use a lawyer, go to hell." Now back to HOMEbrewing. Bruce Conner bconner at cybercom.net Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 1995 23:30:02 -0500 From: jparker at procom.procom.net (John Parker) Subject: foamy brown ale >To: jeffries at accessus.net >From: jparker at mail.procom.net (John Parker) >Subject: foamy brown ale >Cc: >Bcc: >X-Attachments: > > Hello Chris > > This reply is from John Parker,Thunder Bay Ont. Canada. > I also had,and to some degree still do have, at times, problems with foaming beer from the tap.But it is controllable! > These are the conditions that I have found that increase foaming. > > (1)temperature:I keep my kegs in a refrigerator at 32 degrees F. > The warmer the beer the more it foams. > > (2)pressure:I depense my brew with co 2 at 10 PSI on average, but I have found that a slightly higher pressure(12-13 PSI) on a newly carbinated keg works better initially until the brew starts absorbing the CO 2 I am despensing it with.When this happens I cut the pressure back to 8 PSI. > > (3)despenser hose length:Vertical rise pressure (V.R.P.) states that one pound of static resistance pressure is required for every two feet of vertical rise regardless of transmission line size.All this means is that if your transmission line (the line from the keg to the tap) is say ,greater than 5 feet, you need a restricter hose of 3/16 I.D. for the last foot before the tap.Very important! > > (4)the tap: When you go to pour yourself a glass of beer, open the tap fully open, quickly.Throttling the tap causes foaming. > > (5)first glass:No matter what you do the first glass of beer you pour after not using the system for say 12 hrs, will be half foam.The secound, third,fourth, and so on should be good. > > (6)more technical stuff:The principle of a draught beer dispensing system is to rapidly fill glasses without sacrifiing quality. The faucet delivery should be 2.1 to 2.6 oz. per secound.Delivery speed is determined by propellent pressure and line restriction.For best results the system should be balanced within 2 lbs.and gently lifted from the keg to the faucet. > > (7)experiment: A little bit of research along with a little bit of trial and error,have made my foaming problems managable.I'm sure the same will hold true for you. > > (8)detailed info:I have more detailed information on balancing the system.the info includes (E.P.) equilibrium pressure,less than equilibrium pressure,over equilibrium pressure,(O.P.) operating pressure,(V.R.P.) vertical rise pressure,equipment pressure (boost pressure),effects of altitude, and CO 2 saturation charts, if you are using CO 2 as a propellent,like I am. > It would take way to long to type in all this info.but if your interested I could fax or mail it to you. > Unfortunately I don't have a scanner (yet)! > > Hoping you find some of this usefull? > John > > PS: Did you use (Brew Head) or a similar type product in your beer ???????? > Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 07:57:18 -0500 From: Kxt1215 at aol.com Subject: Thermometers / Oven Temp In HBD 1908, rbarnes at sdccd.cc writes about discrepancies between a floating type thermometer and a probe type. The probe indicated higher temperatures as it was inserted deeper into the wort. One of my duties in the Navy was to calibrate gages and thermometers, so maybe I can explain what's happening. First, I am assuming from the description that the thermometer has a solid, straight probe and is not the alcohol/freon type. Inside the probe is a bimetallic strip that is attached either directly or through a gear mechanism to the dial needle. As the temperature changes, the difference in the temperature coefficients of the two metals in the strip cause it to deflect, and move the needle proportionately. If the entire length of the strip is not inserted below the surface of the fluid, the full length will not deflect and it will read a lower temperature. The probe should have (at least the ones from the Navy had) a line scribed around the circumference about 6 to 10 inches from the end. This indicates the length of the bimetallic strip and must always be submerged in the fluid to get an accurate reading. It is always a good idea to check the calibration of a thermometer at least at the freezing and boiling points if these are within its indicating range. If these are OK, everything in between should be OK. Calibration screws are located on the dial face and/or back side of the thermometer. Some are not adjustable and might as well be thrown out if they are out of calibration ; ) As for maintaining a constant oven temperature for mashing, the oven thermostat senses air temperature. The mash liquid has a much higher thermal capacity than air and should remain at a relatively constant temperature even though the surrounding air temperature fluctuates as the oven cycles on and off. A thermometer in the liquid is the best indicator. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 08:29:59 -0600 From: John Wilkinson <jwilkins at imtn.tpd.dsccc.com> Subject: Propane stopper ejector As for the posting by Chris Cooper in hbd #1909, >..a stopper had been "infused"... I "decocted" the following plan. >First "sparge" the inverted carboy...with "propane inside" and heat >to force the stopper out. I'm not sure which would be the best heat >source, "stove/oven", "steam injection" or a full blown Cajun cooker. I sure hope you are putting us on. I don't like to waste space on the Sam Adams thread but Pierre Jelenc had a good point about the SAM ADAMS BOSTON LAGER, SAM HOUSTON AUSTIN LAGER, SAM SMITH YORKSHIRE LAGER similarities and who should be touchy. I particularly like some of the Sam Smith brews but have on occasion found found myself saying Sam Adams when I meant Sam Smith. Besides, as a Texan I am particular offended by some clown in Boston sueing some one in Texas for using the names of two of Texas' most significant heroes (Sam Houston and Stephen F. Austin). They have gone too far now! Remember the Alamo! Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 09:54:11 -0500 (EST) From: Eugene Sonn <sonn at oswego.Oswego.EDU> Subject: Stone-age lagering As promised, I've compiled all the suggestions people sent me on how to lager in a cold, but non-temperature controlled area. Though many of the suggestions are common sense, several are innovative or at least important. First, the brain trust says it's important to know the place you want to lager in. How much does the temperature change? Are there any drafts? And if you're going to work in an attic like I plan to, make sure the floor is strong enough to support all the beer you plan to put there. Second, use the right yeast. Wyeast's Czech Pilsner and California Lager were both suggested. In general, people warned about any yeast which produces diactyls. Third, deal with temperature fluctuations in a couple of ways. The easiest way is wrapping the fermenter in blankets. Many say putting the carboy in a trash can full of water is a good idea, but if temperatures could get below freezing ths isn't such a good idea. One person suggested taking a cotton t-shirt and draping it over the carboy and setting the shirt in a pan of water. The idea is the shirt will act as a wick and through evaporation the carboy will keep cool....this seem's like a great idea for folks in areas warmer than upstate New York where I live. When considering how to keep the carboy cool, remember cold basement walls, drafts and other cold sources can help you keep your beer cool. Well, that's all the wisdom given by the brain trust on wild lagering. Thank you all for your messages and I hope this has helped some of you lurking on the HBD. I guess I should get back to work... Eugene Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 95 09:58:44 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Gearing up for all grain In HBD 1910, Rob Emenecker <robe at cadmus.com> asked > I am trying to find something to insulate the pot with. > It must be easily removable. Ideally, it can remain > [wrapped] around the pot while it is on my cajun > cooker. Any ideas out there??? I'm working on a similar problem. I posted a similar question a few months ago without much luck. But a friend of a friend had some lab equipment insulated, so I spoke to the guy who did that. He suggested a flameproof fabric that is used for welding curtains. I thought it wouldn't have a very high R value, but he said you can weld on top of it and the heat won't go through. He hasn't got back to me with details, but he said it was sold by the yard. I figure a velcro closed jacket would work. If anyone has additional details on this product, or other ideas, I'd like to hear. Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 09:07:05 -0600 From: "David W. Parkin" <dwparkin at mmm.com> Subject: RE: IPA and Oak Chips I have to say that the responce from Algis R Korzonas in HBD # 1910 was excellent and quite infomative. You cleared up a few questions I had. DWP Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 10:48:59 -0500 From: Jim Grady <grady at hp-mpg.an.hp.com> Subject: Sam Adams Austin Lager There has been a lot of talk lately about the similarity between Sam Adams Boston Lager and Sam Houston Austin Lager. According to a recent post, this is not the issue: > HOMEBREW Digest #1890 Wed 22 November 1995 > > From: alan at mail.utexas.edu (Alan P. Van Dyke) > Subject: Sam Adams redux > Koch is filing lawsuits left & right > against just about anyone he can. He threatened to sue a brewpub here in > Austin for serving Sam Houston Austin Lager. Koch cliamed to own the > trademark on Sam Houston. and later: > HOMEBREW Digest #1895 Tue 28 November 1995 > > From: alan at mail.utexas.edu (Alan) > Subject: more SA/Celis > > It really works like this. Koch had an intent to use trademark on the > name "Sam Houston". The way it works is that the keeper of the > trademark has claims for six months. If the keeper doesn't use the > trademark, they lose it. Koch never used it; he just kept > re-trademarking the name. When Waterloo Brewing here in Austin decided > to use it, Koch threatened to sue. Apparently, Waterloo won out. They > are still using the name two years later. Since Waterloo doesn't serve > guest beers, & it's clear in their advertising that they are -not- > serving Sam Adams, there really is little confusion. Patrons laugh it > off as a Texified pun. Did you know that Koch also does the same thing > with the name George Washington & Thomas Jefferson? According to Alan's post, Koch did not sue because of the similarity in the names but because he had already trademarked the name that was being used. - -- Jim Grady grady at an.hp.com Hewlett-Packard Medical Products Group Andover, MA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 95 10:46:52 CST From: "Tracy Aquilla" <aquilla at salus.med.uvm.edu> Subject: oak in IPA In Digest #1910: korz at pubs.ih.att.com (Algis R Korzonas) says: >Eric writes: >>A local homebrew supplier, who was happy to sell me some chips, >>could not provide any guidance on how to use them. >> >>1. What's the proper quantity to add? > >In an IPA, NONE. IPAs are not oaky. Exception: Balantines IPA? I think there was an article addressing this issue in Brewing Techniques some time last year, but don't quote me on that. I remember reading about it somewhere, though. Apparently, the only IPA to have an oaky flavor was Balantines IPA. I guess if you're trying to clone this beer, you might want to use some oak chips. I wouldn't use much though (actually, I wouldn't use any). >>3. Do they require any special sanitation? I think most folks who do this steam briefly in something like a vegetable steamer. Using boiling water, even briefly, would probably extract too much tannin. Tracy in Vermont aquilla at salus.med.uvm.edu Return to table of contents
Date: 15 Dec 95 11:02:55 EST From: "Thomas A. Wideman" <75710.1511 at compuserve.com> Subject: Cap leakage/Pressure differences >>> This is not the first time this has happened. I have taken >>> homebrew to New York with me that has been well carbonated >>> here in Ft. Collins (Elevation ~ 5,000 ft) only to find it flat >>> when I arrive at sea level. Can the pressure difference be that >>> much to affect the beer? >><<<snip>>> >>The pressure difference is only about 2.3 psi from here to down there. >>Maybe the CO2 leaked away during a plane trip where the pressure is >>equivalent to ~10,000 ft altitude? > >Almost all airliners maintain a cabin altitude below 8,000' MSL. We're >talking about a relatively small psid compared to the pressure in a >carbonated bottle. Sounds like a capping problem. Also, the psid >between the bottle and Ft. Collins (at 5,000 ft) would be _greater_ than >between the bottle and NY (near sea level), wouldn't it? > >Tom Wideman Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 11:35:55 -0500 From: Bill Rust <wrust at csc.com> Subject: RE:phil's sparge arm TO: Encylopedia BREWtannica? ...Hmmm, catchy. Regarding Keith's comment on Phil's Sparge arms... >I don't have an answer to this, but I do have a related question. Why use >a rotating spray arm at all? I have always been under the impression that >you should keep the surface of your grain bed submerged in about an inch >or so of water when sparging. So trying to evenly distribute the sparge >water on the surface of the grain bed seems sorta pointless, doesn't it? > ...Anyone?...Anyone?...Bueller? Here's a solution for you more frugal types. I use a spray attachment for a kitchen sink. I got one for $5-6 at Wal-mart and cut the hose off. I attached it to the spigot of my bottling bucket (tight fit, required hot water to stretch). If I elevate my bottling bucket with the sparge water high enough, I get a perfectly spread spray that in no way disturbs my grain bed. 6-7 batches so far without a hitch! Hasta Spumanti! ------------------------------------------------------------------- | After three or four rounds the glint was Bill Rust, Master Brewer | back in his voice and he was looking at Jack Pine Savage Brewery | the penguins with the lazy eyes of a man Shiloh, IL (NACE) | who would not be bored too much longer. | -Curse of Lono, Hunter S. Thompson ------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 10:42:00 -0600 From: uchima at fncrd8.fnal.gov (Mike Uchima) Subject: splitting boil? I'm a relative newbie (several extract batches) who is thinking of moving up to all-grain. There's one hitch, though: I have a stove with a "double oven", i.e. there's a second oven over the rangetop -- this restricts the size of pot I can use for boiling. The pot I've been using for my extract batches barely fits, and it looks like there's NO WAY I'll be able to get a pot large enough to boil 6 gallons of wort on there. The question I have is this: Are there any potential problems with splitting the boil into two smaller pots? Can't I just do two 3-gallon boils (in parallel), and combine them when I transfer to my primary? - -- Mike Uchima - -- uchima at fnal.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 95 12:42:21 EST From: Thomas Williams <TJWILLIA at VM.OCC.CC.MI.US> Subject: Help! Hunter Temp. Controller Woes Can any one help with a Hunter Temp. controller that won't, no way, no how, allow a temperature drop below 40 degrees F.? Not only does this pose a problem with cold lagering, but I can't get the beer cold enough for quick carbonation. TIA Tom Williams Milford,MI tjwillia at vm.occ.cc.mi.us Return to table of contents
Date: 15 Dec 95 12:47:06 EST From: <Stephen_W._Snyder at metcapw1.ccmail.compuserve.com> Subject: Homebrew Coffee Grinders???? I was shopping for Xmas gifts at Starbucks yesterday and I saw these nifty adjustable electric coffee grinders. My wife said that she always wanted one of these, but they seemed too expensive, around $100. But I'm thinking about grinding grain in these things. Is this a viable option? It said on the box, "Burr" style grinder. I'm sure this has been covered before, but I can't remember what the Collective said... Steve Snyder Seattle, WA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 95 13:05 EST From: cdp at chattanooga.net (C.D. Pritchard) Subject: re: Question about steam generators cerevis at mcs.net (Christopher P. Weirup) asked in HBD 1905: >Where can I go to get the proper hardware installed on the pressure cooker? I doubt a decent plumber would tap a domestic, aluminum pressure cooker. The metal's too thin and the consequences of a failed joint are too severe IMHO. The local WalMart has a pressure cooker for about $40. In addition to the usual weighted pressure relief vent, there's also a pressure gauge which is screwed into a *tapped* hole in the lid. Its made by either Mirro or Presto and is fairly large (17 qts as I recall). C.D. Pritchard cdp at chattanooga.net Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 95 13:05 EST From: cdp at chattanooga.net (C.D. Pritchard) Subject: RIMS heater pipe The copper pipe usually used for enclosing the heating element in a RIMS is over $2/ft AND, around here, you've got to buy at least 20 feet! The fittings ain't cheap either. Being a cheapskate, I used a 1 1/2" diameter x 12" long chrome plated brass slipjoint sink drain tailpiece. It's the type with a slight bell at one end which is fitted with a nut. A 1/16" thick brass washer was made and soldered to the belled, threaded end. The heating element, with a 1/16" red rubber gasket is placed thru the washer and the gasket seated against the washer. The nut is screwed on over the element's head thereby compressing the gasket between the nut and the head of the element. A bit of oil on the nut helps. The other end of the tube was capped with a disk of 1/16" brass which was soldered on. 3/8" copper inlet tube was soldered into a hole in the brass disk and the outlet tube was soldered to a hole drilled in the tailpiece close to the nut. Haven't mashed with this heater yet, but it's been run in RIMS mode for 3+ hours at with pH 5.0 water at 150-170 degF. Hoppy Holidays! C.D. Pritchard cdp at chattanooga.net Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 16:09:02 -0600 From: SSLOFL at ccmail.monsanto.com Subject: NG Water Heater Element I am currently experimenting with a NG hot water heater burner for a "speed boiler" in my basement. I acquired an old hot water heater from my friend, and removed the element. One wouldn't need to bring home a heater and tear it apart in order to experiment with one. The gas element comes off by unhooking a single fitting and sliding it out. I would assume that most brands of heaters would be the same way so one could replace the element if needed. Just keep a crescent wrench in your vehicle and stop if you see an old heater on a curb! The gas dryer heater element was a good idea as well, but my friend didn't have one of those that I could tear apart! I am going to hook up the element in my basement under a range fume hood that is vented outside. In the same room, I'm going to install a CO detector to be safe. I am going to use two in-line valves to control the gas flow to the burner. The only thing about this setup is that the burner will have to be supervised while in use. Since I could not get the safety control to work, one must watch the flame to make sure it doesn't go out and fill the basement with gas fumes. I will post my results later. I strongly suggest that anyone else experimenting with a gas burner in their home in any way other than it is originally intended should use a good fume hood and a CO detector. A large purchased range hood or homemade one should work fine, but make sure it is vented outside! Cheap range hoods simply filter out particles of smoke and blow the air somewhere else in the house. As for CO detectors, all will work but not all are practical for this use. First alert and some others are excellent detectors, but they are not recommended in this case because everytime they are set off, they require a new $20.00 cartridge. This could get expensive at startup of a new idea. I recommend the types that are resettable, so they can be used over and over without additional costs other than batteries. Please post any warnings, comments, or other any designs or ideas pertaining to gas burners on a future HBD. I would leave an internet address, but I am sending this from work since I don't have access at home. Our company's connection is terrible, and I don't always get my messages. I would hate to miss anyone's response. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 23:48:39 -0500 From: dludwig at atc.ameritel.net Subject: What does this have to do with HB >BTW, professionally I'm a self-employed consulting engineer, not a >lawyer. But when you deal regularly with the bottom line, you learn >fast what you have to do (and not do) to keep from getting into legal >hassles that force you to deal with lawyers. > >Cheers, >Greg Walz Really Greg. What does this have to do with homebrew? A lot of eager homebrewers are out there with beer problems and you and others like yourself are clogging up the stream of HB info. -Dave Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 16 Dec 1995 00:13:29 -0500 From: dludwig at atc.ameritel.net Subject: Re/dancing bubbles >of vinyl hose that runs the wort to my boiling pot. As I run off the wort I've >noticed 20-30 tiny bubbles forming near the place where the tubing attaches to >the end of the copper pipe. The only way I can get rid of the bubbles (I've >tightened everything I can tighten) is to open the valve all the way (which >will reduce my extraction rate). The other option is to run the wort off in a >small stream down the vinyl tube as opposed to filling the tube completely and >having the tiny bubbles. > >Which method will oxidize the wort less - The bubbles are most likely the result of your wort approaching it's the vapor pressure. That is, entrained gases coming out of suspension due to reduced static pressure. The low pressure at the tap is caused by the siphon created when you are running off. If you throttle your flow, then the air will come out of suspension at the valve. I you don't throttle, the air will come out somewhere else. Bottom line, the air is already there and the presence of bubbles is no problem with regards to oxidation. -Dave Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 16 Dec 1995 08:06:49 -0500 (EST) From: FLATTER at RoseVC.Rose-Hulman.Edu Subject: brewpubs and Budweiser An interesting question was discussed in a club newsletter I read recently. [Thanks, FOSSILS!] What is the general opinion of a brewpub serving other commercial beers, like Budweiser, along side their handcrafted brews in order to meet the desires of those accustomed to such a taste? So as not to inhibit any of the discussion, I won't summarize any opinions voiced any the article. What do you all think? Neil.Flatter at Rose-Hulman.Edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 16 Dec 1995 08:39:06 -0500 From: genitom at nyslgti.gen.ny.us (Michael Genito) Subject: Step Mashing in Picnic Cooler Trying to make things as simple as possible in an all grain brew, does anyone out there have a simple formula using temp and amount of water to be added to temp and amount of grain to achieve certain strike temps? Papazian's CJOHB mentions adding measured amounts of 200F water to grain to achieve these temps, but doesn't give a formula and doesnt address temp of grain or mash. TIA. Michael A. Genito, Director of Finance, Town of Ramapo 237 Route 59, Suffern, NY 10901 TEL: 914-357-5100 x214 FAX: 914-357-7209 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 09:11:39 -0500 (EST) From: "Dave Bradley::IC742::6-2556" <BRADLEY_DAVID_A at Lilly.com> Subject: Winter Lager For those who, like me, have not been impressed with most of the Sam Adams offerings, I just bought the current seasonal "Winter Lager" and was quite surprised. It is very full in body with a hint of its alcoholic strength, yet as smooth and pleasurable as a good lager should be. I'd prefer a little more hop aroma, and maybe a hint more hop flavor, but all in all this is a terrific and affordable lager IMHO. Something to remember when your homebrew (gasp) RUNS OUT. (currently $5/six at the local Osco drugstore chain) Dave in Indy From: BRADLEY DAVID A (MCVAX0::RC65036) To: VMS MAIL ADDRESSEE (IN::"homebrew at hpfcmgw.fc.hp.com") cc: BRADLEY DAVID A (MCVAX0::RC65036) Return to table of contents
From: ulick at chemcon.internet-eireann.ie id m0tN7Uw-0006TqC; Wed, 6 Dec 95 00:14 GMT Date: Wed, 6 Dec 1995 00:14:08 +0000 From: Ulick Stafford <ulick at chemcon.internet-eireann.ie> Subject: Milk tanks as fermenters To: homebrew <homebrew at hpfcmgw> Message-Id: <Pine.3.89.9512060023.E134-0100000 at chemcon.internet-eireann.ie> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII I am starting to get together equipment for a cheap microbrewery and consider secondhand bulk milk tanks to be a good start as fermenters. However, obviously they are designed for a different purpose so I am seeking information about people experience using them as fermentation vessels. A typical example is around 130 imp gallons (~700 litres). It's circular and shallow. Has a gentle slope to the outlet and is jacketed and cooled with a glycol system. There are many available in sizes ranging from 100-300 gallons and bigger, I'm sure. I can see several problems. The slope is not nearly as steep as in cylindroconical fermenters and so I doubt if trub and yeast removal will be possible by simple turning on the tap. Can anyone suggest an alternative short of racking 130 gallons (shudder), such as muck raking to the side with tap with a large sanitised muck scraper. _____________________________________________________________________________ 'There was a master come unto the earth, | Dr. Ulick Stafford, born in the holy land of Indiana, | Wexford Brewing Company, in the mystical hills east of Fort Wayne'.| Ballyhurst, Taghmon, Co. Wexford http://www.nd.edu:80/~ulick/ | ulick at chemcon.internet-eireann.ie Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1912, 12/18/95