HOMEBREW Digest #1972 Thu 29 February 1996

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Return; Sugar Beer; Portland Brewing (Glenn Raudins)
  SAK (James Kendall)
  RIMS ("Anton Verhulst")
  Re: The Macintosh Minority /Lager Truble? (Gary McCarthy)
  Use of Copper in Brewing ("Palmer.John")
  vinometer (Tracy Thomason)
  European brewery visits (michael j dix)
  Special B (BOBKATPOND)
  Re: Goofy gravities (Dan Pack)
  chili beer (Scott Rudolph)
  Scottish Ales/Black Silk/Clean Koelsch/Wyeast and strain origins (Algis R Korzonas)
  Basmati Pale Ale recipe (Bart Thielges)
  Bottle cleaning (Craig Stewart)
  Special B, Gravity readings (ByronOlive)
  mega-brewery beer (Robert Rogers)
  Scottish Ale (Mike Urseth)
  non-sucking variant (Dick Dunn)
  Nutty beers...... (Aesoph, Michael)
  wort chilling (Wallinger)
  Stuck Fermentation, chillers, other stuff (Bob McCowan)
  Monitoring CF Chiller Temps (Marty Tippin)
  Brewer's Companion ("Tracy Aquilla")
  Flour layer (Matt_K)
  Re: Adding cold water to brewpot? (Spencer W Thomas)
  Lager - Yeast Bottling Question ("Olson, Greger J - CI/911-2")
  Lagering times--summary of responses (Tam Thompson)
  Re: re: mixed gasses....continued (pbabcock)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 09:50:45 -0800 (PST) From: raudins at lightscape.com (Glenn Raudins) Subject: Return; Sugar Beer; Portland Brewing Having been gone from the digest for a while, about a year, (work work work), I return to a rather hectic digest. (Copyrights, etc.) First things first, welcome to all of the beginners that have been asking for info, I tried to send off some info as I remember what it was like back when starting, trying to find info. In issue #1970, Domenick rightfully straightens out a bit of bad info: >First, John, this is a beer list. I am not a beer snob but your recipe is >not for beer. It appears to be a lightly flavored alcoholic solution, not >unlike Zima, though you do mention hops. My guess is that its primary >function is the production of cheap, non-lethal, drunkedness. You missed the reference to 14 dozen bottles from this recipe?!? Jeez... >results. Who strive for better beer, even better beer more simply, but >the operative adjective here is "better". This list is the antithesis to >the cane sugar, molasses, and baker's yeast type beers of prohibition >of which yours is a modern example. Good lashing, but this brings up a point. (I went back through a good number of back issues to make sure I don't talk out of turn.) I, being a long time brewing techie-gadget freak, notice that the digest has split into struggling beginners and hard core tech talk. I think we are missing the middle ground. Recipes are becoming rarer, and as most of us know this is how many have improved their beers by looking at others recipes. So along these lines, I will run through my recipe book to look for anything that would help the collective. Now, anyone have any grist info and/or yeast type used by Portland Brewing company? Specificly, their McTarnahan's Ale. Imitation can be the best way to polish the brewing process. Glenn Raudins raudins at lightscape.com Not an ounce of Copyright. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 96 12:56:06 EST From: James Kendall <kendall at ltee.hydro.qc.ca> Subject: SAK Does anyone on the digest know of a source of used SAK's? If this question has already been adressed before, please indicate the digest #. Thanks loads. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 96 14:04:30 -0500 From: "Anton Verhulst" <verhulst at zk3.dec.com> Subject: RIMS Dion Hollenbeck writes: >I would be really interested to learn where you heard about >carmelization of wort on the heater element...... With a low density >element (72"long when all stretched out, and only 1125 watts) scorching >will never occur... I'd love to find such a heating element, could you list a source and part number?? Re: using a water bath to heat recirculating wort rather than having the heater directly in the wort: >While your method may work, I suspect that you are losing a lot of >heat transfer efficiency and have lots of hysterisis in the system due >to lag time from when you turn on the element to when that heat >actually reaches the mash..... I think that the amount of hysterisis can be reduced considerably if the temperature sensors were in the water bath rather than in the wort. That is, if you can maintain the water bath at 154F (for instance), wort running thru copper tubing would be maintained at that temperature also. A mechanical stirrer in the bath will help. - --Tony V. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 96 12:45:28 -0700 From: gmccarthy at dayna.com (Gary McCarthy) Subject: Re: The Macintosh Minority /Lager Truble? In HBD 1970, Darrin writes: >ARE there only 4 of us Mac users(?) No way! There are many Mac users out in BrewLand. There is no reason to believe that the majority of HBD readers are PC cusses! Don't polls say that a majority of internet users are Mac people? As far as one can believe polls. I think the same proportion of HBD readers are Mac users too. We just might not think we need brewing software. Some one should do a poll(but not me!). High terminal gravity in Lagers has been mentioned recently. In making my first lagers(all-grain) this year, I have a high terminal gravity(1.023 or was it 1.030) on the first. I haven't seen any posts on resolution. My ales terminal gravity is usually low teens (1.010-1.015). So I don't think brewing technique is a factor. My I wonder if the garage got too cold? It has been very cold in SLC at times, but would my lager yeast hibernate because the wort temp got down to 32F(est)? Maybe I should bring the carboy inside for a couple of days? I am making a yeast starter for the Northern European Pilsner(from Millers book) which I made this weekend. I think also I will use half for the Pilsner and half to try to jump start the Kolsch. So what if it is a Pilsner yeast! Don't nobody give me any trouble! Any other solutions anyone can think of? Gary McCarthy in SLC Live music is better! Bumper stickers should be issued! N Young gmccarthy at dayna.com Piss off and scroll down for crissakes. Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: 27 Feb 1996 12:30:59 U From: "Palmer.John" <palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com> Subject: Use of Copper in Brewing Jeff Benjamin had some questions on the use of Copper in Brewing in view of its general avoidance for contacting with food. He concluded with: >So, why is copper okay for brewing but not for cooking in? >A few conjectures: >1. Copper leached into the wort during brewing is consumed by the yeast during fermentation? >2. Copper ions attach to some other component of the wort and settle out. >3. Beer doesn't leach much copper into the wort compared to other foods you might cook (due to pH or ...)? >4. It's the mechanical action of cooking (scraping, etc.) that releases copper during cooking; this doesn't happen nearly so much with brewing? >5. The copper is in the beer, you just don't drink that much beer, compared to the amount of food you eat. The answers are: 1. Probably to some degree, I have not seem any documentation to this affect. 2. ditto. 3. A-Ha! This is the big reason. Chemistry is the key. Beer Wort is not very aggressive to copper. It is more aggressive to some copper oxides, which is why wort chillers tend to come out very shiny, but gradually develop a patina that protects the surface even more. My Immersion chiller, which I just hose-off after using, has a dull copper finish to it, and does not change color appreciably in the wort. Other foods (chemicals) will affect the copper differently. 4. IF you were to scrape the sides of your chiller/pot with a metal spoon while it was in the wort, then you would get more copper coming off. More of a "small amount". 5. Probably true. Copper in beer Could be a problem, based on recent brewing practice of monitoring for it at some brewhouses. (No I dont remember) Last year, I put together a data package for Jim Neighbors of the AOB, which they sent out to Lobbyists and Breweries because the FDA was proposing to Forbid the use of copper in Food Manufacturing eg. brewing. I have the final letter at home and can post the text if anyone is interested. Basically Copper and Beer get along fine. John J. Palmer - Metallurgist for MDA-SSD M&P johnj at primenet.com Huntington Beach, California Palmer House Brewery and Smithy - www.primenet.com/~johnj/ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 96 21:37:29 GMT From: tracyt at llano.net (Tracy Thomason) Subject: vinometer I ordered a vinometer today but the guy said he didn't have instructions for it. Can anyone tell me how to use one? Thanks, Tracy tracyt at llano.net Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 96 13:57:25 "PST From: michael j dix <mdix at dcssc.sj.hp.com> Subject: European brewery visits I really enjoyed visiting the Brasserie Cantillon in Anderlecht, a suburb of Brussels, Belgium. It is a family-run operation, with a self-guided tour and a nice drinking room. They make gueuzes and lambics, along with cherry and raspberry flavored versions. We went last May, and every one was super-friendly. As we left, the brewer was eating a cheese sandwich on the sidewalk with his black Lab, both enjoying the sun. The place was interesting, somewhat like the Straffe Hendrik brewery, but not as tall. I enjoyed the storage room where the hops were drying out and browning. These beers are challenging for the uninitiated. There was a group of German youth ahead of us, and they left their glasses half-empty. We bought some bottles for aging, and the lady advised us to store them in our cellar, not in the fridge where it's subject to vibration. The only problem we had was finding the darn place. We had the address from the Michael Jackson book, and I thought, how big could Anderlecht be? We took the highway from Bruges to the freeway, then got off at the first Anderlecht exit. After a while, it became evident that we were not going to just stumble across it, so we parked and walked to a bus shelter to read the map. Well, it was a map of all of Brussels, so it was not much help. I asked the young lady waiting for the bus, if she knew where this brewery was, or the street it was on. (in French, cause she she did not speak English.) She did not know, being new to the neighborhood, but suggested I ask at the corner restaurant. The restaurateur did not know, so he went to ask the cook. Minutes passed. Finally the owner came out with a Brussels map book. Eureka! he had found the street. I asked how to get there from where we were (in the same town, mind you). He just shook his head. The simplest thing was to get back on the freeway, go two exits, and turn back in. Well, one exit was closed, so we went three exits, and got in the most horrifically snarled traffic I have ever seen. We eventually got there (it is a little east and south of the heart of Anderlecht), but it was a bit of a strain (my wife was mentally dialling the divorce lawyer's number for quite a while.) She made me take a vow, no more city driving in Belgium. So, if you intend to go there by car, plot your route out ahead of time, and take a navigator who can relate where the car is to the map at all times. Navigating in Brussels is somewhat challenging: Imagine smashing a large mirror, so that all the pieces stay in place. Each individual line segment would represent a Brussels street. At any intersection, (up to seven streets that I saw) there would be one metal street sign for each street on the second floor of a building. Best thing to do is have some one run ahead of the car at intersections to read all the street signs, because you may get to the corner and not see any. Driving away at lunch time was an eerie experience. The streets were full of seemingly abandoned cars. No problem, the drivers were just enjoying a leisurely lunch, and we should have been too. Mike Dix (mdix at dcssc.sj.hp.com) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 18:45:13 -0500 From: BOBKATPOND at aol.com Subject: Special B Jim Cave writes: Subject: Special "B" is crystal??!! I could be corrected, but I read the post by (?) concerning the use of special B and the comment was made that this was some sort of a special, high roast crystal malt. This does not look to be the case from my examination of this malt. It appears to be some sort of high roast malt but I could not see any caramelization of the interiour of the malt that would indicate a crystalization inside. I chewed a several kernals and the perception is one of a drying roast, rather than a lusiousness (which would be perceived from crystal). In the Zymurgy special 1995 issue, Special B is listed under caramelized malts with a color of 220L. So I would agree, it is best described as a dark crystal malt! Bob Morris Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 16:52:19 -0800 From: danpack at grape-ape.che.caltech.edu (Dan Pack) Subject: Re: Goofy gravities In HBD #1970 Steve (CASteveB at aol.com) writes: > Last Sunday (18 Feb) I brewed an American Pale Ale. I used 6 lbs. Light DME > as well as some steeped specialty grains. For a 5 gal batch, this should > have yielded a SG of approximately 1.050 (Assuming 1.042 for the DME). After > it was in the fermenter I took a SG reading and it was 1.026! (It also tasted > incredibly bitter, which I think would make sense if the SG was half of what > I was shooting for.) I'm just speculating here, but I'd be willing to bet you used a partial boil. You boiled in 2-3 gal of water then topped up in the fermenter to 5 gals, right? Heavy, sugar-laden wort on the bottom, nice light clear water on top.... See where I'm going? You didn't mix it up before you took the SG reading did you? All your extract was in there, it's just that most of it was on the bottom and you took your sample from the top. How do I know so much? I did exactly the same thing about 6 months ago ;^) Oh, and the high bitterness is normal for wort with significant IBUs (which you pale ale has (I sincerely hope B^). That sharp bitterness will change a lot during the fermentation and conditioning. Wort doesn't taste all that pleasant, IMHO, but for the experienced wort taster it can tell you a lot so keep on tasting. BTW, Steve, feel free to correct me if I missed the boat on this one. Dan Pack Pasadena, CA Mac user and proud of it!!! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 20:23:41 -0600 (CST) From: Scott Rudolph <rudy at execpc.com> Subject: chili beer I would like to bottle something similar to Cave Creek chili beer; I understand it's a matter of putting a pepper in each of the bottles when bottling. The only thing that concerns me is sanitation. Has anyone done this? I think I remember reading that the peppers are best sanitized by a short microwave bath. I'm not real comfortable with that, but will probably do it unless someone else has a better suggestion. Thanks for any ideas. Scott Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 96 16:47:09 CST From: korz at pubs.ih.att.com (Algis R Korzonas) Subject: Scottish Ales/Black Silk/Clean Koelsch/Wyeast and strain origins I think that Ken and Robert may be right about my personal impressions regarding the bitterness and dryhopping in Scottish Ales, namely that my experineces are with the southern third of Scotland. It could very well be true that as one goes further north in Scotland that they may tend to be less bitter. I will have to take another look at Roger Protz's book and see if perhaps the majority of the ales that seem to be bittered at "English Bitter" rates are from southern Scotland. I'm sorry if I did err here, but it did make for some interesting discussion either way, no? *** Darrin writes: >Grains/Malt Extract: >8 lb. Mountmellick stout kit >1/2 cup flaked barley >2 cups Quaker oats >1/2 cup black patent >1/4 cup chocolate malt I'm afraid that you didn't get much from the barley or oats other than starch haze (which was covered up, no doubt, by the blackness of the beer). None of the grains you mention have any enzymes and therefore there was no conversion of the starch in the flaked barley or oats. You may have gotten some beta glucans out of them which would add some body -- does anyone know if you can get beta glucans out of flaked barley and oats with a 30 minute steep at 140-145F followed by a 10 min steep at 155F? My guess is that you can't. A.J.? George? Charlie? *** Jim writes: >While a decent lager can be made with this malt, >a better lager can be made with the likes of malt from Bamberg. I >dont feel that a traditional alt can be produced with domestic 2 row, >nor a clean Koelsch, it would be too grainy. I have not tried to make either Alts or Koelsches with domestic (US for all our international readers) 2-row, however I was struck by Jim's choice of words: "nor a clean Koelsch, it would be too grainy." Perhaps it is a matter of semantics, but the best (in my opinion) Koelsches I tasted in Koeln last summer were very "grainy" in flavour and had a significant DMS component. I have to look at my notes to recall my other favorites, but I recall that I really liked Mueller Koelsch and it was one of, what I would call, "the grainyest" ones. I would have to agree with Rob that US 2-row would work for many types of lagers, some Belgian ales and Koelsch, but would agree with Jim that you really need continental Munich malt to make a decent traditional Alt. Jim -- what did you mean by "grainyness" in reference to Koelsches? I think the grainyness is *required* for a good Koelsch. *** Both Tom "I don't think Dave has any motivation to lie about the origin of his yeast if the brewery of origin doesn't care." and Jeff "I thought Al's comment was totally uncalled for, frankly. Dave has *never* to my knowledge, deceived anyone about the source of a strain." paint me as a villain. The first time that I spoke with Dave Logsdon about the origin of his strains was back when Wyeast only sold approximately 14 strains or so. Back then, from our conversation, I got the impression that he was hesitant to divulge the sources of the yeast strains. There was even some discussion on HBD regarding legal issues of yeast strains (this was perhaps 1991 or 1992). The last time I spoke to him about the strains was when I was asking him about the new Koelsch yeast and the London ESB. He said that all he knew was that the Koelsch yeast was definitely from a brewery in Koeln and sounded rather uncomfortable when I asked him about the London ESB -- I dropped the subject of strain identification and talked to him about something else. Never did I say that Dave lies about where the strains come from nor did I say that he has deceived anyone about the sources. Tom was the first person to use the word "lies" in this discussion and Jeff the first to use "deceived." If there was actually no problem with knowing the sources of the yeasts, then why would the sheets that Wyeast Labs give out to retailers not contain the source names? It would be great if we knew where the strains came from if that's possible. Ironically, I'm in the process of doing something like that, but perhaps it is impossible for some strains due to the suppliers' agreements with the breweries. Maybe it was just my bad luck that the strains I asked Dave about just happened to be the ones for he could not divulge the sources. I use Wyeast strains almost exclusively and think that Dave Logsdon has done more for improving homebrewed beer than anyone on this planet. So, please stop implying that I said bad things about him. Furthermore, if you shared the previous posts with Dave, please make sure he gets a copy of this one too! Al. Palos Hills, IL korz at pubs.att.com Nothing worth copyrighting in this post, even though it technically is, anyway. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 18:56:45 -0800 From: Bart Thielges <bart.thielges at Xilinx.COM> Subject: Basmati Pale Ale recipe We originally formulated this recipe because the Shade Tree Brewery (a.k.a Paul's driveway) was prone to producing deep, flavorful, chewy brews. Our friends "who don't like beer" seemed to shy away from our keg and crack open a Coors Light instead. The solution - brew a rice beer for them. Unexpectibly, we stumbled across a beer that tastes good to us too. I'd like to share the recipe : Basmati Pale Ale II Brewed 11-12-95 (yield 19 gallons) 25 lb. Domestic Pale malt 1.5 lb. Carapils 1 lb. Flaked Maize 6 lb Basmati rice 1 Hindi aphorism 2 lb. Honey Before the mash, the rice was cooked for about 20 minutes in a larger than normal amount of water - a sort of soupy texture. This prevented Paul's housemates from raiding the rice for lunch. Single infusion mash at 152F, sparged to 16 gallons of wort. Hops : 2 oz 5.3% Stryian Goldings 60 min 2 " " " 30 1 3.3% Saaz 15 1 5.3% Stryian Goldings 5 1 3.3% Saaz 0 About midway through the boil, invoke the Hindi aphorism, thumb your nose in the general direction of Munich, and say "Nicht Reinheitsgebot". The OG of the wort was 1.078. Yeasts used were stepped up Wyeast strains : Irish and German ale (I forget the numbers). Three batches had German, one had Irish. The remaining 14.5 gallons left at the end of the boil was split evenly into 4 glass carboys for fermentation. 3/4 to 1.5 gallons of water was added to each primary to dilute down a random amount, insuring that we won't be able to exactly duplicate this recipe. The FGs ranged from 1.010 to 1.012. Enjoy ! Bart thielges at xilinx.com brewing equipment destroyed this session - NIL Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 14:21:21 -0400 (AST) From: Craig Stewart <foghorn1 at darwin.nbnet.nb.ca> Subject: Bottle cleaning Ladies and Gentlemen, rSlightly off the topic of *brewing* the beer, but on the topic of *bottling* the brew. I've been brewing for a while now, partial mashes and the like. Ive got a pain in the arse that takes a lot of the fun out of brewing for myself. CLEANING THE DAMN BOTTLES! I wash out the bottles after I drink them, but invariably I have to aquire new ones. As I don't drink the domestic swill that is offered exclusivly in my small part of Canada, I have to get second hand bottles. Some of the stuff that comes out of them makes me want to 'recycle' the obligitory homebrews that I consume while brewing and bottling. Are there any ideas as to how to clean out this mess. Yes, I have a dishwasher, I'm it! <grin> Next question, to sanitize them, how much household bleach should I put in ~20 - 25 litres of water. If I put in enough to smell it, I have a devil of a time geting the smell out, and if I can't smell it, I don't know if I have enough! Otherwise, I'm having fun. Oh, BTW, I see something called a RIMS on this discussion. Any one want to enlighten my ignorace on this proce dure? And remember; Homebrew, good for what Ales you! <pun intended! groan!!!> - -- ************************************************************************** Disclaimer: Any resemblance between the above views and those of my employer, my terminal, or the view out my window are purely coincidental. Any resemblance between the above and my own views is non-deterministic. The question of the existence of views in the absence of anyone to hold them is left as an exercise for the reader. The question of the existence of the reader is left as an exercise for the second god coefficient. (A discussion of non-orthogonal, non-integral polytheism is beyond the scope of this article.) ************************************************************************** flames to /dev/null Craig Stewart foghorn1 at mailserv.nbnet.nb.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 00:13:39 -0500 From: ByronOlive at aol.com Subject: Special B, Gravity readings I saw the recent posts etc.. Special B stands for special biscuit and is a belgian (origin) malt. I've seen the color range from 180-220 Lov. I believe it is a dextrin malt and is produced in similar fashion to crystal malt. All of the "cara-malts" carapils, caravienne, caramunich, and special b and crystals are "stewed" heated to saccharification temps to convert startch to sugar. In the case of the crystal malts the malt is then dried at high temps to carmalize the sugar. The dextrin malts however, are dryed at low temps so as not to carmelize the sugar. Longer times for darker malt? The addition of dextrin malts add body and head retention with little of the sweetness we get from crystal malt. I think it's been said before but.. People with the continually high ending gravities need to consider their fermentation conditions such as: pitching rate (too low), available oxygen, and temperature. Compare your attenuation to the yeast manufacturers to see how close and possibly adjust the above mentioned conditions to increase performance. Just for grins check your hydrometer against 60F water to be sure the paper inside hasn"t slipped - it happens. Byron Schmidt Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 01:20:46 -0500 From: bob at carol.net (Robert Rogers) Subject: mega-brewery beer i've seen the light in a new way. i don't consider the beer i make very good, but since i ran out i opened up a can of beer. wow. bad. i can _taste_ corn. i hope that stuff in the secondary is ready to keg soon!! i can't wait 'till i'm an "expert" brewer like some of y'all :) bob rogers, bob at carol.net Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 00:34:19 -0600 From: beernote at realbeer.com (Mike Urseth) Subject: Scottish Ale >From: bush at shbf.se (Robert Bush) >Subject: Re: Scottish Ale >Hi, > >Al Korzonas, Fredrik Stahl and Ken (I can't find his posting) have been >discussing Scottish Ale and I must support Fredrik's theory that the style >has changed from a century ago. It's a lot easier to travel these days; >borders fade and we all exchange ideas (just look at this forum!) that >spread more easily today than just a few decades ago. However, I would like >to quote Graham Wheeler (British brewer and beer writer that has co-written >a couple of books with the aforementioned Roger Protz). In his book "Home >Brewing - The CAMRA Guide" he writes about two Scottish Ale recipes: "Very >lightly hopped, typical of Scottish beers." and "--still very lightly >hopped in the Scottish tradition." The best answer that I've heard to this question came from Bill Burdick, master of all he surveys at Sherlock's Home brewpub in Minnesota. Bill lived in Britain for years and worked in the brewing industry. His Scotch Ale (Pipers' Pride) uses an additional bitter agent called quassia (sp?) that is derived from the bark of some plant grown in the New World. The use of this ingredient was common since the thrifty Scots were loathe to import hops from England. Apparently hops don't grow as well as heather in the Scottish climes. For what it's worth, this is the brew that Michael Jackson drinks when he's visiting Sherlock's. Anyone who loves true British ales should make a pilgrimage to Sherlock's. I stop by every chance I get. Mike Urseth Editor & Publisher Midwest Beer Notes 339 Sixth Avenue Clayton, WI 54004 715-948-2990 ph. 715-948-2981 fax e-mail: beernote at realbeer.com Return to table of contents
Date: 28 Feb 96 03:01:19 MST (Wed) From: rcd at raven.eklektix.com (Dick Dunn) Subject: non-sucking variant Russell Mast <rmast at fnbc.com> wrote a long explanation of his siphon- cleaning and siphon-starting techniques in HBD 1968. He ends with >...Honestly - I don't understand how or why anyone does it differently... Of course, I feel the same way about my technique, but it's different;-) Since I've been using it for 15 years and I'm relatively stupid and clumsy, I figure I can offer some suggestions that might help. I'll not try to be as careful or detailed as Russ was. The basic idea is that if you get a hunk of tubing with the ends held uppermost at equal height, you can fill it by pouring a stream into one end. Figure two pieces of equipment: the racking cane (rigid J-shaped tube) and the racking hose (flexible tubing, fits over end of cane, useful if it's about 6' long). Attach tube to cane, get open ends uppermost, fill with sanitizing stuff, futz as needed to assuage paranoia. Detach cane, attach funny little orange thing, finish cleaning it (outside) and shpluck it in the carboy. Grab ends of racking hose, hold upright (U shape), pour clean water (e.g., boiled tap water) into one side until the U is full. Carry to carboy, keeping open ends upright and even with one another. Attach one end to racking cane. Pinch the other end. Drop it way down--this is why you want a good hunk of the flex tubing, to get enough drop to start the siphon. Un-pinch and let water flow into a cup 'til siphon starts, then start racking or bottling or whatever. No suck. The water in the racking hose starts the siphon. If you get a wimpy start on the siphon, or if you're siphoning young beer/ mead (where there's carbonation), there may be a tendency to create a bubble in the hose that causes trouble. Give the hose a very quick pinch in the middle of the bubble and the bubble will break off and head down the hose as the siphon runs. If the bubble was due to carbonation and the pressure drop of the siphon, it will likely re-create itself, so it may help to pinch it out a couple times during the transfer. If you're bottling when you do this, you might want to keep an eye on the bottle- fill. I've gotten fascinated watching the bubble traverse the hose to where I've tried to put 14 oz in a 12-oz bottle. - --- Dick Dunn rcd at talisman.com Boulder, Colorado USA Turn off the tube. Hang up the phone. Get out of the car. Log off. Get out and live for real. Return to table of contents
Date: 28 Feb 96 08:10:28 EST From: aesoph at ncemt1.ctc.com (Aesoph, Michael) Subject: Nutty beers...... Dear Collective: A while ago, I was helping a friend empty his fridge of imported beers (by consumption of course) and I noticed that some of the beers had a nice "toasted almond" taste. Does anyone out there know a good beer recipe that includes almonds or other unique flavor ingredients? Mike Aesoph Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 18 Feb 1996 07:05:12 -0600 From: Wallinger <wawa at datasync.com> Subject: wort chilling charlesd at nando.net (charlesd) wrote: >A quick question for the collective: > is there any problem with >adding cold water to about 3 gallons of boiling wort to bring the total >volume up to 5 gallons and then cooling to pitching temp using the >sanitized wort chiller? use the chiller first, then add the water. you'll get faster temperature reduction by chilling the hot wort because of the larger temperature differential. wade pascagoula, mississippi Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 08:22:51 -0500 From: Bob McCowan <bob.mccowan at cfrp.varian.com> Subject: Stuck Fermentation, chillers, other stuff Kevin...liquori at acc.fau.edu is concerned about a stuck fermentation. Assuming that your fermentation temperature is OK, I'd suggest that you didn't pitch enough yeast or aerate enough (or both). What I'd do at this stage is get some more yeast, make a good size starter (2 liters or so), well aerated, and pitch at high kreusen. That way you'll have some healthy active yeast that will hopefully finish out your fermentation. About Chillers: There is an excellent treatment on wort chilling by Charlie Scandrett at the brewery (www.alpha.rollanet.org). In particular, he explains why extremely long is not necessary. Clay Crenshaw asks whether there is any difference between the finished beer when the product is force carbonated or primed in the keg. I've never primed in the keg but I have racked early and let secondary fermentation finish in the keg. The only differenc I've found between the two methods is that there's a lot more yeast in the bottom of the keg with the natural carbonation. I'd like to add a little to John W. Braue's observation about specific gravity measurements. Remember that when you take measurements it's important that when you get wildly inconsistent answers or answers significantly different from what you expect it's worth checking your measurements. For instance, if I measured the outside temperature in July at -20 F, I'd be suspicious of the thermometer. Look for the simple explanation - it's almost always the right answer. Common sense is your best guide here. Keg Leaks If there is a light rough spot, the O-ring probably can't flow into the rough area and seal at low pressure. You might try an O-ring lubricant. You might try sanding the rough spot with fine sandpaper or scotchbrite. If you do, go easy and always sand perpendicular to the gas folow direction, otherwise you may end up making scratches that will breach the O-ring. About the "Homebrewers Companion "Tom Fitzpatrick says "Yes, the first edition has some glaring errors. Just get the latest edition." Are you suggesting that I reward the sloppy work of the first edition by buying the corrected one? You'd think they were a software company :) Bob - -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob McCowan voice: (508)-922-6000 x208 ATG/Receiver-Protector fax: (508)-922-8914 CPI BMD Formerly Varian CF&RPP e-mail: bob.mccowan at cfrp.varian.com Beverly, MA 01915 - --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 07:32:51 -0600 From: Marty Tippin <martyt at sky.net> Subject: Monitoring CF Chiller Temps The recent discussion regarding the performance of counterflow chillers prompts me to offer a tip on monitoring the output temperature of the wort from the chiller - I don't know how most of you do it, but I found a simple method that gives instantaneous, continuous reading of the temperature of the wort exiting the chiller. I use it to adjust the flow rate of cooling water to get the temperature where I want it - winter time water at my house is running about 50F, so I have to fiddle with the flow rates to keep the wort at pitching temp (around 68F)... You'll need a short length of 3/8" ID vinyl tubing (which you probably already use to direct the flow from the chiller to your fermenter) and a instant-read type thermometer (the kind with a 1" dial and a 6" or so probe, about 1/8" diameter and pointed on the end - the one I've got is made by Taylor, and they go for about $10 at Wal-Mart, etc.) Attach the tubing to the output end of the chiller. About 2" from the end of the chiller, poke the pointed end of the thermometer probe through the vinyl tubing, at an angle almost parallel to the tubing. Slide the thermometer into the vinyl so the end of the probe is up inside the copper tubing of the chiller. The vinyl should seal around the probe and prevent leaks. Now as the wort exits the chiller, you get a (nearly) instant reading of its temperature and can adjust the rates accordingly. -Marty - -------------------------------------------------------------------- Marty Tippin | Tippin's Law #24: Never underestimate the martyt at sky.net | power of human stupidity. - -------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my 2-Tier Converted Keg Brewing System at http://www.sky.net/~martyt/2tier.html - -------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 96 09:26:53 CST From: "Tracy Aquilla" <aquilla at salus.med.uvm.edu> Subject: Brewer's Companion In Digest #1971: fitz at fasicsv.fnal.gov (Tom Fitzpatrick) wrote: >D & S Painter wrote : >> I now have a quick question for anyone who has purchased or has been in >> contact with Randy Mosher's book The Brewer's Companion; could you >> please give me a review on this book. > >Mark writes: > >>>I picked up this book last year and after reading it I wasn't all that >>>excited about it and sorry that I spent $20 for it. I have found David >>>Miller's new book much more interesting and a better use of my money. > >I have to strongly disagree; Are we comparing Randy Mosher's book to >Millers' "Brewing the World's Great Beers" ??? >To me, there is no comparison. [snip] >The Brewer's Companion has >many useful sections on water treatment, enzyme activity, hop varieties >and IBU calculations, clarifying agents, extract potential, etc. >I even used parts of Mosher's book to study for the bjcp exam. It >presents some very technical info in an approachable manner. >I frequently reference Mosher's book when I can't remember a certain >detail, but I haven't even opened Miller's book recently... [snip] >Yes, the first edition has some glaring errors. Just get the latest edition. I'd like to see more input on this thread. I have a pretty decent brewing library and I've been considering adding this book, particularly for the kind of technical information referred to here. I'd really appreciate reading more comments/reviews either in the HBD or via email. What IS the latest addition,anyway? Thanks. Tracy in Vermont aquilla at salus.med.uvm.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 09:33:14 est From: Matt_K at ceo.sts-systems.ca Subject: Flour layer Gentle correction mode on In Wednesday's HBD Rog Lauriston says while talking about the flour layer in the mash tun: >This is sometimes called 'top-dough' or by the German word 'tieg' >(prounounced 'teague' ;-) which means dough or paste. Handy word >just 'cause it's shorter. Actually it's spelled "Teig" (meaning dough) and pronounced like "tike" but with a "g" substituted for the "k". As stated before, this is just a gentle correction, not a flame or anything like that. My credentials? I was bron in Germany, lived there for 16 years and still speak the language with my parents. Matt in Montreal Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 10:09:50 -0500 From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer at engin.umich.edu> Subject: Re: Adding cold water to brewpot? >>>>> "Derek" == Derek Lyons <elde at hurricane.net> writes: Derek> Boil the 3 gallons *first* and set it aside to cool. Derek> (Overnight?) That way it's sterile and the chlorine is Derek> gone. A note: if your municipal water system uses cloramine to sanitize (as does mine), boiling will *not* remove it. Your only recourse is to charcoal filter. Our system will soon be switching to ozonation, but I'll keep on filtering -- it makes the water taste much better, especially in the summer, when it tends to taste a little "swampy". Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 96 07:30:00 PST From: "Olson, Greger J - CI/911-2" <gjolson at bpa.gov> Subject: Lager - Yeast Bottling Question This is a somewhat premature query, since my dopplebock (my 1st lager) will not be ready to bottle for another three weeks, but what is the consensus of the collective on the need to add fresh yeast prior to bottling? I have heard differing recommendations, and I'd hate to spend this much time on a brew only to have flat beer. Thanks. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 10:13:29 -0600 From: Tamth at mail.utexas.edu (Tam Thompson) Subject: Lagering times--summary of responses I received three very good replies this morning to my previous post requesting some insight on the relationship of lagering times to OG. In other words, can you get away with shorter lager time for lighter gravity (summer) beers? Jim Booth of Lansing, Michigan reports that a brewery tour revealed lagering times of three weeks for Pilsners, at 32+ F. He adds that he lagers three weeks, then finishes the lagering process after bottling. I've heard of this---you can just store your bottled beer in the fridge to finish the process. Tracy Aquilla reports that Eric Warner of the Tabernash Brewery in Colorado (where my long-lost buddy Joe Barfield brews!) writes in his book on wheat beers that some general guidelines are: 6-8 weeks at 35 F or 4-6 weeks at 40 F or 2-4 weeks at 45 F with the caveat that people report that beer lagered at the colder temperatures tastes smoother. Just as with fermentation temperatures, colder = better. I used to ferment my lagers at 45 F, and was told that I was probably fermenting and lagering at the same time. This fermentation took about two months, but it may have eliminated the need to lager. You can do this, but bear in mind the "smoothness" caveat. And, after all, part of the purpose of lager beer is smoothness, so I now prefer to lager at 32-33. Tim Laatsch of Kalamzoo, Michigan quoted Greg Noonan, from "Brewing Lager Beer": 7-12 days at 33-34 F for each 2 degrees Balling, or each .008 of OG to give the example, from my current lagers, one of them is a Vienna of OG 1.045. Divide .045 by .008 (or just divide 45 by 8), and you get 5.625. Multiply that by 7, and you get 39.375, rounded to 40 days. So, I can indeed get away with a 6-week lagering period for this beer. For my other lager, the organic ginger-pepper honey lager (I am not making this up), at OG 1.040, the minimum lagering time works out to 35 days---5 weeks. Very nice. I'd imagine that for bocks and 2x, 3x, and 4x-bocks, you'd want to use the upper range, i.e., 12 days per .008 Hope this info helps someone as much as it helped me! Tam Thompson (Home nanobrewery: Barbell Brewing Co., Austin, Texas) Tamth at mail.utexas.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 11:22:54 -0500 From: pbabcock at ford.com Subject: Re: re: mixed gasses....continued Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... Jerry Lee asks "why ask others?" along with a bunch of other questions. To this I respond... Why ask others? Because it is pretty much the _point_ of this forum. And you don't really need to be an expert. The physics involved are fairly straight-forward. I designed and built a rather nifty four product, cold plate-base draft system. The system is "fed" by seven feet of 5/16" vinyl, and it feeds the faucets through four feet of 3/16" tubing. The system requires 35 psig driving pressure to balance it. The kegs remain at ambient temperature - roughly 60 deg F. THe system topography - the way it all fits together - does not allow much room for cutting out sections of hose to reduce the pressure drop. The best candidate is the 3/16" hose, but I need every inch of it to reach the faucets. And, there isn't enough of the 7/16" hose in the system to provide the desired reduction in drop and still be functional. I carbonate at 60 deg F at about 30 psig static pressure, ie I charge the keg, and disconnect once a day until the keg accepts no more gas. Ok. I hook up my perfectly carbonated kegs to 35 psig live pressure CO2 for dispensing. The result is perfect flow from the faucet, and a glass of over-carbonated beer. Driving with 80% CO2 20% N2 at 35 psig solves the carbonation problem while providing the necessary driving pressure. (I can live with the 2 psig error in apparent CO2 pressure). This is the "why", Jerry. Yes, I agree that after doing the math, tweaking may still be required, but any experience with this should be useful to others in similar quandaries. Even a jockey-box (coil box) requires a certain level of pressure to balance, and this pressure may be greater than desired for proper carbonation. And "expert" is defined as "one who is very skillful or well-informed in a particular field". That's us, folks. All of us, to some extent, are expert in our "field". Nowhere does it say "always right" or "god-like" or any of the connotations we seem to apply to the term. Not trying to flame Jerry, but it seems we are spending too much time looking for what's wrong with a post lately instead of what's right (can't believe I'm saying this...). The point being, and I've said this many times over, the fact that you don't find it interesting or informative doesn't necessarily mean that noone else does. And that there are at least as many different methods to do beery things as there are to skin a cat. See ya! Pat Babcock pbabcock at oeonline.com Return to table of contents