HOMEBREW Digest #2010 Sat 13 April 1996

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Homebrew Digest #2009 (April 12, 1996) -Reply (DENNIS WALTMAN)
  zero emissions by beer breweries ("E-L Foo, UN Univ, Tokyo")
  Old Malt Cans / Lagering / Starters (Rosenzweig,Steve)
  re:bottle baking (KDDrakes)
  Gravity / Skunks Before & After /  Fermentation Chiller (KennyEddy)
  Sierra Nevada Porter ("Clark D. Ritchie")
  Wine, grapes and prohibition (Douglas Thomas)
  Another light-struck question. (Mitch Hogg)
  Yet another H2O question ("Toler, Duffy L.")
  Grain & Extract (Fred Hardy)
  Defy gravity / spigots ("Dave Hinkle")
  Widmer Hefe-Weizen (KrisPerez)
  CaraPils and Dextrine in the Wort (Bunning W Maj ACC/DOTE)
  Re: ANYONE (SBFunk)
  The smell of new-mown hay ... (Michael Owings)
  Light struck, Baking Bottles, Thrifty acres. (Russell Mast)
  Dating Wyeast Packs (Tim Martin)
  "Light struck" hops (guym)
  Wort canning for yeast propagation (hollen)
  trappist ale (Orval Jewell)
  Question on Water Filter (JIM ANDERSON)
  copper tubing/pipe (Domenick Venezia)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 04:47:39 -0400 From: DENNIS WALTMAN <PDWALTMAN at sablaw.com> Subject: Homebrew Digest #2009 (April 12, 1996) -Reply I will not be in the office 4/11/96. If you have a rush or emergency please call the Help Line at 8773 or 404-853-8773. I should be back in the office by 9:30 am on 4/12/96. Dennis Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 19:01:44 +0900 From: "E-L Foo, UN Univ, Tokyo" <FOO at hq.unu.edu> Subject: zero emissions by beer breweries INVITATION 1st Electronic Conference on Zero Emissions by Beer Breweries The Zero Emissions Research Initiative (UNU/ZERI) welcomes you to participate at its 1st Electronic Conference on Zero Emissions by Beer Breweries (1st May - 30 June 1996). The scope of this conference covers all aspects related to the complete utilization, treatment and conversion of beer brewery by-products, i.e. spent grain, yeast, kieselguhr, beer rejects, wastewater, carbon dioxide gas, heat energy, broken glass, etc. This electronic conference will enable participants to join general discussions and to discuss a number of subject-related papers. The conference will start on May 1st , continue through the 2nd Annual World Congress on Zero Emissions, Chattanooga, USA. (more information at web site: http://www.zeri.org/) and on until 30 June. HOW TO PARTICIPATE A pre-requisite to your participation is access to electronic mail. To join the electronic conference, email the following command in the body of mail to LISTSERV at SEARN.SUNET.SE SUBSCRIBE ET-ODEN firstname lastname (organisation) e.g. sub et-oden Markus Suzuki (Tokyo Inst Technol) REGISTRATION Registration to the electronic conference is free. ORGANIZER: Mr. Eng-Leong Foo Institute for Advanced Studies, United Nations University 5-53-67 Jingumae 5-chome, Shibuya-ku,Tokyo 150. Fax: (81-3)3499-2828; foo at hq.unu.edu, http://www.zeri.org/ http://www.ias.unu.edu/ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 07:18:58 PDT From: Steve_Rosenzweig at wb.xerox.com (Rosenzweig,Steve) Subject: Old Malt Cans / Lagering / Starters Congrats to HBD on hitting 2000 - here's to 20,000 more!!! *********************** In HBD 2009, Eric Stetson asks about old malt cans and lagering temps: >From what I have heard, as long as the cans aren't bulging (infected) or rusted anywhere (give a metallic taste), the only possible effect might be that the extract will be somewhat darker than a fresh can. In the last few months a local brew shop has put cans of out of date malt on sale (94 - 95 exp dates -$5.50 each - half price!). I bought a couple and tried them out - one did in fact turn out darker than I had hoped, but another brand turned out lighter than I had anticipated, and in both cases the taste was fine. One hopped can actually gave me some hop trub in the boil pot above the wort level - along with good hop aroma - something I rarely find in hopped extract cans, even fresh ones. So the moral of the story is: use them if you want to just make good beer for casual consumption, but if you have your heart set on brewing up a prize winning beer you should go for the freshest ingredients possible. (I ended up going back and buying up several more out of date cans - got to build up my keg reserve for summer!!!) On lagering: 42-44 should be fine. It may take awhile for complete fermentation, but it'll be worth the wait. I use a beermeister to lager in, and it stays right in that range! ************************************ In HBD 2009, Chris DiIorio asks about yeast starters: Check out the Tech Library in The Brewery at alpha.rollanet.org - lots of good stuff on yeast starters there!! If you're Web deficient, E-mail me and I'll send you the text from the write-ups. ********************************** Stephen Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 10:26:34 -0400 From: KDDrakes at aol.com Subject: re:bottle baking In #2009 Mike Spinelli tells about how he bakes his bottles to sanitize them. Yeah, it should work, but (there's always one of these), the temps required can make the glass brittle and lead to premature fatigue/failure. Be careful or you may experience the exploding bottle syndrome. And if you think bottle washing is a PIA... Regards, Kerry Drake Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 10:29:01 -0400 From: KennyEddy at aol.com Subject: Gravity / Skunks Before & After / Fermentation Chiller Kirk Harralson added a comment to my Gravity formulae with respect to leftover wort. This is an important omission since it impacts not only kettle gravity but recipe formulation as well. My electric boiler's drain valve is positioned so that I lose about 0.4 gal of wort (but I leave much of the crud behind). Because of the hops and break, which will displace some wort, the figure is probably a bit lower, but I doubt it's significant. Anyway, if my final chilled wort is supposed to have a gravity of say 1.050, *all* the final wort must have this gravity, including the wort left behind. Therefore, if I want 5 gal in my fermenter, I need *5.4 gal in my recipe formulation* at the 5-gal gravity. So I need to set my batch size to 5.4 gallons, not 5. And if I boil for 90 minutes at 1/2 gal/hour evap loss (3/4 gal for the 90 min), I must have an initial boil volume of 5.4 + 0.75 = 6.15 gal. Now I can apply the "boil gravity" formula to these figures: BG = (5.4 / 6.15) * 50 = 44 or SG = 1.044 immediately after sparging (or after mixing in the extract). Note that 5.4 versus 5 gallons is nearly 10% more, so this can have a pretty significant impact on your grain bill (you'll need 1/2 to 1 pound more grain for a typical 5-gal batch). Neglecting this in your formulation can lead to lower-than-expected OG's (and therefore incorrect efficiency figures). ********************** Thanks to everyone who pointed out that hop AA's must be isomerized (by boiling) before they can be skunkified. "Hops aren't grown in the dark". Indeed. ********************** Kerry Drake tells of plans for a fermentation cooler available at The Brewery, but is wondering about hot Oklahoma summers. Kerry, I built one (actually I built the *first* one!) and these hot *West Texas* summers can't keep my fermenting beer from staying happy at 65F with ice changes every 2-3 days. This in my 90F garage. At 75-80 ambient (more typical for cooler climates' summers) four days would be likely. Ken Schwartz KennyEddy at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 08:17:46 -0700 From: "Clark D. Ritchie" <ritchie at ups.edu> Subject: Sierra Nevada Porter Greg, I found the following recipe somewhere on the Net. This recipe was (allegedly) scaled down from Sierra Nevada's original 500 gallon recipe. I don't know how accurate that statement is, nonetheless this mkes a truly great porter. For 5 Gallons: Grains: 9.80 lb English 2-row Pale 0.25 lb American Cara-Pils 0.40 lb American Caramel 60=B0L 0.40 lb American Chocolate 0.25 lb American Black Roast Hops: 0.75 oz Perle at 60 minutes 0.75 oz Perle at 30 minutes 0.75 oz Perle at 15 minutes Yeast: I've had great results with American Ale (1056) but recently tweaked things around a bit and used Swedish Porter. I'd stick with American Ale. OG: Low 60s TG: Mid teens Go for it! ...CDR Clark D. Ritchie, ritchie at ups.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 08:22:45 -0700 (PDT) From: Douglas Thomas <thomasd at uchastings.edu> Subject: Wine, grapes and prohibition Re: Postings on malt extract for unique baked goods. Well, I am not sure about beer, it was probably illegal to make at home during prohibition, but wine was quite legal to make for family use in many states. As mentioned in a post if the April 12 HBD, most of California's vintners stayed alive by selling grapes at market. But, most of these markets were legal home wine making markets, and known as such. The train yards of Chicago, New York, Pennsylvania, all over California, all were legally billed for the home winemaker. Notice, also, that the places I mentioned have very high amounts of recently arrived European immigrants (my family included, from Italy), that would not have accepted life without wine, so the government was smart enough to allow up to 200 gallons (at least California) of wine to be made by the head of the family. Grape juice was even sold by varietal type! The only thing that was illegal about wine was if it was sold, or given to people outside the family. Oh, you could not go over 200 gallons, that was deemed enough for the family. Beer, as I said before, is probably a whole different story, though I know a few people who's mother or father made beer. This seemed to be prevelant throughout the SouthWest, but was probably everywhere. One persons mother even got much of her grain herself. They lived near an abandoned wheat field, and she made traditional wheat beers for much of the block. Well, there's my $.02 Doug Thomas Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 11:37:39 -0400 (EDT) From: Mitch Hogg <bu182 at freenet.toronto.on.ca> Subject: Another light-struck question. I learned about the nasty effects of light the hard way. For the last five years or so, I've been fermenting and storing bottled beer in the closet because that's where I had the space. Recently I moved to an apartment with very little closet space and began leaving carboys and bottles out in the open. Bad move. The first two batches I made here had an off-taste that was best described by my girlfriend as "magic marker". I have now started dressing my carboys in old t-shirts to keep out the sun, and the latest two batches have been up to my former standards (he said, without a trace of arrogance). So, now that I've learned my lesson, I have a question for y'all: I work at a you-brew winemaking place, and we leave the carboys out in the sun all the time. Now, it's never direct sunlight; there's a street-level overhang outside that shields some light, but the front of the store is about twenty feet of plate glass. However, the wine we make never has any traces of light-induced skunkiness. What gives? Is there some fundamental difference between wine and beer (like hops, for instance, or higher alcohol content) that keeps skunkiness from occurring? Or is it just dumb luck? TIA for your help, Mitch. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 96 12:28:00 PDT From: "Toler, Duffy L." <TOLERD at cdnet.cod.edu> Subject: Yet another H2O question My wife and I are looking into getting a water softener for the benefit of laundry, dishes, bathing, etc... The water softener people I've talked to estimated our water at 36,000 grains, adjusted (for iron, I think). I asked them about the amount of sodium left in the water after exchange and was told about 157 mg/L. 1. Does this amount of Na seem about right for softened water? 2. Is this an unacceptable level of Na for certain styles? 3. How might this water be treated? (or should I use a hard H2O bypass and treat that) 4. Would using potassium chloride in the softener be better for brewing water? I would hate to cough up an additional $250+++ bucks for a R.O., please help! Thanks in advance! Duffy Toler Sugar Grove, IL "Where only the women are harder than the water" Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 13:32:33 -0400 (EDT) From: Fred Hardy <fcmbh at access.digex.net> Subject: Grain & Extract The AHA Entry/Recipe form has dropped asking the brewer to identify whether the entry is all grain, grain and extract or all extract. Thank you, AHA. I notice, however, that some regional competitions continue to ask the entrant to check this on the recipe form. Since the recipe form includes all ingredients, I am puzzled why they continue to ask this. My question to the assembled keyboards concerns a beer that is currently boiling in my kitchen. It is, I hope, a Bohemian pilsner. My local grain supplier (Brew America, Vienna, VA) packages grains in 5-lb. bags. For my own convenience I elected to use 2 bags (10 lbs.) of D-C Belgian Pilsner grain and 1/2 lb. of Ireks German light crystal. This left me short of the target O.G., so I'm augmenting it with an Alexander's pale malt kicker. Now the beer is obviously not all-grain. I usually interpret the grain & extract categorization to mean that extract is the primary fermentable with a partial mash to enhance the final beer. In my case it is the reverse. What do you check on the entry form, and why does it matter? Cheers, Fred ============================================================================== We must invent the future, else it will | <Fred Hardy> happen to us and we will not like it. | [Stafford Beer, "Platform for Change"] | email: fcmbh at access.digex.net Return to table of contents
Date: 12 Apr 1996 11:16:33 -0700 From: "Dave Hinkle" <Dave.Hinkle at aexp.com> Subject: Defy gravity / spigots Shelby of Asheville, NC wrote: >I would like to explain my future system and see if >you find any problems. I am trying to do this as >cheaply as possible, so I am cutting many corners in the process. I >plan on buying two cajon cooker style burners and switch one back and >forth from the hot liquer tank to the boil kettle. This will be an all >gravity fed system. This will be acheived by making a "swing set" style >frame out of four by fours. I will place a pully above each kettle and >have a steel cable which can be switched to any of the kettles. This >cable will be attached to a crank and mounted to the frame. When ever I >want to transfer liquid, I crank the kettle off the ground and gravity >feed. Egads! Am I the only person who sees this as a strange aversion to using a pump? You'll look like Quasimodo (sp?) ringing the bells. You might want to skip the lumber, cranks, cables and pulleys and just get a food-grade pump. Just my advice... Don wrote: > Well, what I would do is go to the local mega hardware store and get a >"boiler drain", some conduit nuts and a neoprene (or such) gasket. Take one >of those white gaskets that come with the bottling spigot with you to make >sure you get the right sizes (1/2"?). > You will probably need to put one conduit nut on the outside of the >"boiler drain" to provide enuf shoulder for the gasket. If I remember >correctly one of the plastic nuts from your old bottling spigots will fit on >the inside, or you can be adventurous and use a conduit nut (I do). Make sure the conduit nut isn't cadmium plated if it will be in contact with water or wort. A lot of elec. conduit hardware IS cad plated, which I believe is poisonous. Some are plated w/ a lead/zinc mix, which you don't want in your wort either. Also, some neoprene isn't food-safe. Be careful in your "adventures" (keep the heavy metals out of the beer!). Dave H Phoenix AZ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 14:33:59 -0400 From: KrisPerez at aol.com Subject: Widmer Hefe-Weizen >Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 06:52:57 -0400 >From: russ tjepkema <russtj at edgenet.net> >Subject: Hefenweisen >I was traveling last week and had the opprtunity to taste Widmer >Hefenweisen. I usually don't enjoy this style, but this one I really >liked. I wonder if anyone has any clone recipes? >TIA >russ >From the September 94 issue of All About Beer Magazine: "Hefe-Weizen a la Widmer Brewing, Portland OR: 1 BBL recipe: 31 gallons/117 liters; (divide by 6 to make 5 gallons) 25 lbs (11.3kg) American wheat malt 25 lbs (11.3kg) American two-row barley malt 3 lbs, 2 oz (1.4kg) Munich malt 1 lb, 3 oz (540gms) 40L carmel malt 11 oz (312gm) American Tettnanger hops 3 oz (85gm) American Cascade hops Mash in at 120 degrees F (49C), hold 60 minutes. Raise to 158F (70C) for conversion. Boil wort about 1:30 plus; whirlpool. Ferment with a good ale yeast. Do not filter. Original gravity 11 plato (sg 1.044); 4.5 % alcohol, terminal 2.1 plato (sg 1.008) color 7 SRM" They imply that this is Widmers actual recipe. Notice that no alpha % is given for the hops and the yeast is a little vague ("a good ale yeast"). I have not tried this recipe. Good luck! Kristine KrisPerez at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 96 14:15:00 +6 From: Bunning W Maj ACC/DOTE <bunningw at ns.langley.af.mil> Subject: CaraPils and Dextrine in the Wort A question for the collective. carapils malt or Dextrin malt is suppose to add unfermentables and dextrin to the finished product. I can see how this works when added as specialty grains to an extract-based beer since there's no enzymes to break the dextrin down. However, when doing an all-grain mash, do the enzymes break the dextrin down into simpler sugars (depending on mash temperature, of course)? Or, do the dextrin chains remain intact (would also apply to caramel and dark roasted malts), and if they do, why? Inquiring minds want to know. Bill Bunning member of the mile-high brewer's guild The following binary file has been uuencoded to ensure successful transmission. Use UUDECODE to extract. begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT M>)\^( at 82`0:0"``$```````!``$``0>0! at `(````Y`0```````#H``$- at `0` M` at ````(`` at `!"X`!`"$```!".31#.35!,#1&.31#1C$Q0C$W030T-#4U,S4T M,#`P,`#P! at $( at `<`&````$E032Y-:6-R;W-O9G0 at 36%I;"Y.;W1E`#$(`02` M`0`B````0V%R85!I;', at 86YD($1E>'1R:6YE(&EN('1H92!7;W)T`.D+`06` M`P`.````S`<$``P`# at `1``(`!0`)`0$ at at `,`# at ```,P'!``,``X`!P`;``4` M&`$!"8`!`"$```!".31#.35!,#1&.31#1C$Q0C$W030T-#4U,S4T,#`P,`#P M! at $$D`8`,`$```$````,`````P``,`(````+``\.``````(!_P\!````4 at `` M````````8)1D8$&X`0 at `*RN**0``CC1=`&0`& at `W`!L````4`"=(;VUE($)R M97< at 1&EG97-T)P!H;VUE8G)E=T!H<&9C;6=W+F9C+FAP+F-O;0```!X``C`! M````!0```%--5%``````' at `#,`$````;````:&]M96)R97=`:'!F8VUG=RYF M8RYH<"YC;VT```,`%0P!`````P#^#P8````>``$P`0```!,````G2&]M92!" M<F5W($1I9V5S="<```(!"S`!````(````%--5%`Z2$]-14)215=`2%!&0TU' M5RY&0RY(4"Y#3TT``P``.0`````+`$`Z`0````(!] at \!````!`````````(" M- at $#D`8`$`8``!`````+`",```````,`) at ``````"P`I```````#`#8````` M`$``.0` at S4<_G"B[`1X`<``!````( at ```$-A<F%0:6QS(&%N9"!$97AT<FEN M92!I;B!T:&4 at 5V]R=`````(!<0`!````% at ````&[*)P]UJ"53+^43Q'/L7I$ M15-4``````,`!A`:5+O=`P`'$.\!```>`` at 0`0```&4```!!455%4U1)3TY& M3U)42$5#3TQ,14-4259%0T%205!)3%--04Q43U)$15A44DE.34%,5$E34U50 M4$]3151/041$54Y&15)-14Y404),15-!3D1$15A44DE.5$]42$5&24Y)4TA% M``````(!"1`!````Q`0``,`$``!,"0``3%I&=5G$V]$W``D#,`$"-0#R"V!N M9_`Q,#,S`?<!\0X``]2)` at !C:`K`<V5T`M' at <')Q,B`'$P*``I$5".8["6\P M$D]E,C7^-1-Z%)$43Q59$V05 at A/O'Q>_%WT6_Q4O$W]E,3+^.!U*'F$>'Q\I M$V0?4AV_GR&/(4T at SQ[_(L0Y,B8%#R=Q'Y,G<`*"<W1Y;#4'D& at )X'0```/P M9&,\=&P*LP^#`=`#,'-N?&5X$)`'L`6P`,`"<RH-"-!S#I`#,&%D9&E`=&EV M92!$`1!A5'5L!4!0"L!A"<!AL'!H($8"(2BC,0X`]RFG"B`+('()4"^"$``O M at FQW-!RQ$&!P*J(J6&+Z81!P9`( at `4`JXRZP+7`;!1`","TN$`-A.B!40F\S MH%-U8FH%D'1!,Z!$871E.BYD-O\NWR_O,/,I,"QP"X`. at !8`/RJQ##`J5!$` M,<\RUU)EXRS0$&$ at 2&4L<`20+F3N-S5?-F\W>S`_$#AX`4#)#E0R-#DO,3 at Z MP0M0O'DO+B`P<`L1.T5S+F3_'W`\/SU/,0]`[T'Y,\(S9&4TE7T!53,V`4`I MH6_N=RG01&$! at &XT(`! at "?#]+(!O`.`"$"MP-\(LX`(`-Q"!*](TL&T+432P M($,H.EQ<!>!/`2!I8VIE3;!7"X!W!;`+,%S331`+<&PN.9!T29`0<'\IT$*` M/_`+ at "L``4!+86YK*4`28"`KTG`` at `60;*QV;`!046!U!0!M45+_`9``(%'B M"X`!``(P`<%143\00`YP``!18`S0`9` at +O\1 at E%()X!2`BU01!!2?U./?52? M,U%1!8%6/U=/6%]LNC1146Q5_UJ_6\4I5,R/# at !9GUY_6[1B(" at "D?]?GU&3 M-4!=3V(/8Q]D+U'`_SP097)23V;?9^]4S!]P97_O:O]L#VT?4<`Y:>]O?W"/ M'W&5"OD#,"FO*K!!('$K"E`HX&D"("!+T2!T/2E`(`CA*1`IT"S!+B#[>9`M MD7`#$`0 at *X$%0`6Q'RT`*Q`S`7KT!`` at <W6(<'!O.R%T;R`L<? at at =6Y, at "MP M=#$!H"D1^WT at 2W` at `0![I'T!>6).$+\#`"DQ0H`0T`1P4B!T>D'>27IA`Z`0 M<"S at :$J`>5'[?%%.H6N!T2E``Z`L<7_QNSE at ?'!P!9`',2CP("W!_PN`!"!] M` at . at >Y(`T#,P.5/<(&()X`7``)!N3C!Y4K\28``0>)!/<"S at !"!N?1!]"?!Z M!L`'D7T!1#`[8&O7>5-^IDIQ;GI!2$J`.N(^+()$.9`X`81B!T!L+?^#TWKQ M*3"*`#F0>5.'5H at /?XD3?$`",'T0`)!-(86B=?YG$%%Q$`$` at T!+<(J2>/&_ MBZ)Y4$T1!)`TH`AP98H`G&]F>9$(<!!P*3]Z4/Y/B?&,!7ZF$#&$`A) at 3Q'_ MCD.$X7$03J`M0(+A>M!]$?]\H$'P?/)Z< at >``R!^8PK`/XTP`V`Y8#2P0H![ M`G,I?XH`?F(&D'E2 at [`YD(H">6F204EN>)!I,P&*L&U?=`&!T0!P!4!]`6N' M('>V+ at J%"H5"`Q`#($)]</US\6<*BG<J!X`&T(6AD:'7>6*:4"D0+8&P9RX` MC/$WB;!$$(:79YG at E3!]``.A at *&P`P`0$``````#`!$0`````$``!S!`?YOH BFBB[`4``"#!`?YOHFBB[`1X`/0`!`````0````````#H[``` ` end Return to table of contents
Date: 12 Apr 1996 14:13:58 -0400 From: sbfunk at aol.com (SBFunk) Subject: Re: ANYONE I am reading it today for my first time. I've got a batch of Honey Wheat Ale in my fertmenter. I am a virgin brewer. I thought I check out the newsgroup and see if there was any good info. Some good stuff and a lot of trash too. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 11:14:42 -0500 From: Michael Owings <mikey at waste.com> Subject: The smell of new-mown hay ... Any help from experienced lager brewers would be appreciated ... For some time now, I have been attempting to brew all-grain Bavarian- style lagers. While the resulting beers have been clean, decent beers, something has been missing -- that "Munich" flavor which I always associate with fine Bavarian Lagers like those from Paulaner, Spaten, etc. But until recently, I could not precisely identify the missing flavor component. Then I read M. Jackson's _Beer Companion_. There he mentions (almost in passing) that lovers of continental lagers often look for a "faintly sulfury note, reminiscent of new-mown hay" in their beers. It immediatly struck me that this "sulfury note" is what seems to be missing from _my_ beers, as well as many domestic interpretations of bavarian styles I have tasted. Is this note the result of residual hydrogen sulfide left in the beer? The characteristic "rotten egg" smell has been noticably missing from my fermentations. Moreover, my lagers have tended to be somewhat under-attenuated, FG usually falling on the low side or just below the mfgrs stated attenuation range for the yeast. I have usually used WYeast Bavarian lager 2206, but on the last batch used a mixed culture of WYeast 2124 and BrewTek CL-680 E. European Lager. I caught not one whiff of hydrogen sulfide during fermentation. Are these strains of yeast simply not prolific hydrogen sulfide producers? All yeasts have been pitched in a 3 liter starter, so I have eliminated pitching rate as a possible problem. Fermentation and lagering are carried out at standard thermostat-controlled temps. I have _not_ been aerating as well as I should, and this may be responsible for the under attenuation. Could this also be causing the missing flavor note? Or should I consider a different yeast strain? Feel free to post or email any ideas -- I'll summarize and repost. Thanx very much in advance -- mikey ============================================================================= Michael Owings Chief of Operations Uncle Leroi's Hazardous Materials Storage and FemtoBrewery New Orleans, LA ============================================================================= Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 15:20:11 -0500 From: Russell Mast <rmast at fnbc.com> Subject: Light struck, Baking Bottles, Thrifty acres. > From: KennyEddy at aol.com > There's been some discussion of light-struck hops here recently. I was just > wondering whether you brewers who brew outside with your gas-fired systems > ever have any problem with light-struck hops? A hour or so exposure while > boiling would seem to be asking for trouble, yet no one seems to have this > problem. Any thoughts? I assume you're talking about brewing outside. I assume that, first, as Pierre and Al noted, you can only skunk iso-alpha acids, so until they convert, you can't get skunking. Also, if you have a real hefty boil going, your foam on top probably provides a measure of protection. Still, I could see it being a problem with really long boils on really sunny days. > From: paa3983 at dpsc.dla.mil (Mike Spinelli) > Subject: BOTTLE BAKING > Does anyone know of a downside to this technique.? Yes. It will weaken the strength of your bottles. If you let them cool slowly overnight, that is minimized, I think. I would generally take them out and let them cool after a short time. I didn't have too many problems with it, except I decided it was a lot of hassle anyway. Also, because I tend to sample whilst bottling, I got burned a couple times, and, well, we don't need to talk about that here. Nowadays, I usually just rinse my bottles thoroughly right when they're emptied, let them sit, and then rinse well just before bottling. Haven't had an infection from that yet, but it's only been about 4 batches or so. > From: 00bkpickeril at bsuvc.bsu.edu (Brian K. Pickerill) > Subject: Frugal All grain brewing > Brinkman Cooker: $48 at Meijer. Oh no, Meijer's in Muncie now. HEh heh. This is regional chain store, centered in Michigan. It's like a Walmart and a Gorcery store slapped together. (They often have video rental, hairstylists, and even dentist offices in them, too.) There's nothing else like them in the world, but I suspect there are lots of other stores that will carry anything they have. Meijer advertises "one-stop shopping", though. (Need a brinkman cooler, a hunting rifle, a crowbar, a gallon of milk, 80 bagels, 14 hamsters, 3 goldfish, a lighting fixture, motor oil, and a new pair of shoes? At 4 in the morning? Just go to Meijer. And while you're there, can you return this copy of "Twins" I rented last night...) -R Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 16:39:08 -0300 From: Tim Martin <TimM at southwest.cc.nc.us> Subject: Dating Wyeast Packs Hey Neighbors, Thank you all for helping me dilute my OG problem from .060 to .045. and sorry for stating it as .60 to .45 but didn't you know that we "hillbillies" always shorten our vocabulary:^). My mail order supplier recently sent me a pack of Wyeast that did not have a date on it. Is this common for Wyeast or rare? I would hope that Wyeast stamped their own packs and do not leave it up to the retailers, which I personally would not trust. Incidentally, the yeast that I was sent(London 1028) was not what I ordered (1056). It seems to be working fine. However, I did notice something odd during primary, there where three large bubbles the size of cantaloupes or 38-D cup sitting on top of the foam. The bubbles did not move only sparkle in the light and the foam and bubbles appeared to have a viscous or gooey character to them. Anyway, I have never used this yeast before and my retailer told me I would love it, after I told him he sent me the wrong yeast. Is this true, will I love it? The yeast profile is described as minerally, diacetyl. Sounds awful to me. All help is used. TIA Tim Martin Buzzard"s Roost Homebrewery "with that strong predatory taste" Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 96 11:16:02 MDT From: guym at Exabyte.COM Subject: "Light struck" hops Ken Schwartz writes: > There's been some discussion of light-struck hops here recently. I > was just wondering whether you brewers who brew outside with your > gas-fired systems ever have any problem with light-struck hops? A > hour or so exposure while boiling would seem to be asking for > trouble, yet no one seems to have this problem. Any thoughts? Well, I actually brew in the garage with the door open so direct sunlight does not hit the wort. My problem comes with the hops hanging on the bines, in full sunlight as they like to be. Skunks the hell out of them before you can even harvest them. Go figure. -- Guy McConnell /// Huntersville, NC /// guym at exabyte.com "So barmaid bring a pitcher, another round of brew..." Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 96 10:26:41 PDT From: hollen at vigra.com Subject: Wort canning for yeast propagation Does anybody have any good methods for getting rid of trub prior to pressure canning wort for yeast propagation. Currently, I am just decanting the canned and cooled wort just before use, but I would like to be able to not have the trub in my canned wort at all. I can mix it up and heat it and let it sit overnight in the fridge before rewarming and canning and sterilizing, but I am under the impression that any re-heating to the temps necessary to produce sterile wort will produce a "second drop" of trub. thanks, dion Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 16:58:57 -0700 From: Orval Jewell <ojewell at thegrid.net> Subject: trappist ale Hi All, Thanks for all of the responses! I had asked about uncompressing the .z files from the HBD archives. I received many different approaches to my problem (perhaps due to the many different computer/software platforms) but, the one that worked for me is to go to the web site: http://bedrock.ecs.soton.ac.uk/Microcosm/download.html then download the "gzip for MS-DOS" file. When you use gzip, use a -d switch (for decompress). The format is: gzip -d <filename.z> then enter. This will yield an uncompressed ASCII file. On another note, in his response to my above problem, John DeCarlo noted that with a name like mine I almost had to be a homebrewer, especially Belgium brews. Well, as a mater of fact... I would love to have a recipe for a clone of ORVAL TRAPPIST ALE. At this point I have only produced partial grain - extract brews. If anyone has a good recipe I would sure like to try it. Thanks. Orval Jewell Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 96 14:54:00 -0500 From: jim.anderson at execnet.com (JIM ANDERSON) Subject: Question on Water Filter There's an ad for a water filtration system in my new Heartland America catalog. Pricewise, it looks like a good deal ($39.99; mfr. sugg. ret. $174.95). Nevertheless, I'd like to find out if it's suitable for preparing brewing water, and thought I'd see if anyone has had any experience with these. The ad reads as follows: "The Glacier Pure Water Filtration System uses a super efficient carbon block filter to reduce unwanted taste and odors from your water. It sits on your countertop and hooks up to your faucet, improving the taste and smell of your drinking water, while REDUCING [my emphasis] chlorine. The Glacier Pure installs easily in just minutes. Easy to replace filter has a life of approximately 5000 gallons (recommended filter replacement is every six months)." I'd appreciate comments from anyone who's used this particular brand. Failing that, perhaps some general comments regarding such carbon filtration. Positive or negative, I don't care. I just don't want to buy something, just to stick it in a closet after 2-3 batches. Thanks! - Jim Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 17:18:22 -0700 (PDT) From: Domenick Venezia <venezia at zgi.com> Subject: copper tubing/pipe I have recently learned something from which other HBD readers may benefit. It seems that I am always looking for some sort of brass fitting and the size designators have always been a source of confusion to me. It turns out that "tubing" is designated by outside diameter (OD) and pipe is designated by internal diameter (ID). This means, for example, that 1/2" copper tubing will fit inside 1/2" copper pipe. So remember when dealing with fittings designed for tubing, e.g., flare fittings, the sizing is OD and when dealing with threaded fittings the size is ID. Domenick Venezia Computer Resources ZymoGenetics, Inc. Seattle, WA venezia at zgi.com Return to table of contents