Homebrew Digest Monday, 12 August 1996 Number 2142
![[Prev HBD]](/img/previous.gif)
![[Index]](/img/index_button.gif)
![[Next HBD]](/img/next.gif)
![[Back]](/img/up_level_button.gif)
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Shawn Steele, Digest Janitor
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
High kreusen and Recipe requests (Delano Dugarm)
Re: Bottle baking is OVERKILL! (Scott Murman)
Using secondaries ("Dave Draper")
re: hop storage ("C.D. Pritchard")
re: glass airlock, food & beer, acetobacters ("C.D. Pritchard")
Directional Suggestions for a La Chouffe recipe (Mark Peacock)
All-Grain Extract Efficiency ((MR STEPHEN D GARRETT))
Oxides of nitrogen revisited (kevin at wheels.aar.com)
Temp controllers ("Dave Eddington")
racking, filtering\ (EDWARD SPADONI)
Re: Errrrr....explosive fermentation ((J. Matthew Saunders))
American Oak, (Michael Gerholdt)
Johnson controllers ((Tam Thompson))
Re: Bottle baking is OVERKILL! (Derek Lyons)
Gott Capacity (Wallinger)
Nokonmyrear ("Jurie Dekter")
50 gallon Gott-like cooler? ((Mike Spinelli))
Re: BOUNCE homebrew: Bad Subject Line Re: Homebrew Digest # ((David Poholko))
Re: Recipe requests (Don Trotter)
Trub VIII (lmatt)
complaints (Scott Dornseif)
Recipes, Chocolate, etc. ("John Penn")
For SUBMISSIONS to be published, send mail to:
homebrew at aob.org
For (UN)SUBSCRIBE requests, send mail to:
homebrew-digest-request@ aob.org
and include only subscribe or unsubscribe in the body of the message.
Please note that if subscribed via BEER-L, you must unsubscribe by sending
a one line e-mail to listserv at ua1vm.ua.edu that says: UNSUB BEER-L
If your address is changing, please unsubscribe from the old address and
then subscribe from the new address.
If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first.
For technical problems send e-mail to the Digest Janitor, shawn at aob.org.
OTHER HOMEBREW INFORMATION
http://www.aob.org/aob - The AHA's web site.
http://alpha.rollanet.org - "The Brewery" and the Cat's Meow Archives.
info at aob.org - automated e-mail homebrewing information.
ARCHIVES:
At ftp.stanford.edu in /pub/clubs/homebrew/beer via anonymous ftp. Also
http://alpha.rollanet.org on the web and at majordomo at aob.org by e-mail.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Delano Dugarm <ADUGARM at worldbank.org>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 17:12:18 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: High kreusen and Recipe requests
Matthew Sanders writes about an explosive porter fermentation in
HBD #2140. I have used a additive called "Foam Control," which
seems to do a good job at controlling kreusen size, even with
high pitching rates and active top fermentations. I bought it at
HopTech (no connection, just an occasional customer), but I'd
imagine other homebrew suppliers sell it as well.
In the same HBD, Don Trotter writes
>I for one have given a few recipes away to strangers, but will
>give no more.
> The beers I make are good. . . . Shoot, Honorable mention and a
> First Place winners tell me so. I don't know about you all,
> but I plan to enter many more competitions and would not like
> to compete against myself, err, someone else using my recipe.
I occasionally judge in competitions, so my interest is in
improving the quality of the beers entered. I'm happy to give
away my prize-winning recipes. This is especially true when I
consider the help that I got from other brewers in formulating
them. If I take Jim's recipe for an IPA, tweek it and beat him
in the next competition, how upset should I get if I then pass my
recipe along to Scott and his beer beats mine out for the blue
ribbon? Come to think of it, I published that recipe here as
well.
YMMV, but I think that improving the general quality of homebrew
is much more important that winning ribbons. Anyway, after you
have more than a couple of dozen ribbons, it gets hard to find a
place to hang them.
Delano DuGarm
adugarm at worldbank.org
Arlington, VA
Return to table of contents
From: Scott Murman <smurman at best.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 11:28:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Bottle baking is OVERKILL!
On Fri, 09 Aug 96 16:04:49 edt Mike Spinelli wrote:
> HBDers,
> Regarding bottle baking, in my opinion is overkill. Several months ago I
> explored this very thing on the HBD. Tried it twice and chucked the practice.
> i think it was Russell Mast who wrote to me that he doesn't do jack to his
> bottles other than rinse them with water.
I'm still considering giving it a shot. At bottling time, the beer
should be 4-5% alcohol so the threat of bacteria is minimal, but if
you've taken great pains to brew a quality beer, and you have a
simple, effective means of sanitizing bottles, why not use it?
That said, I'd still like to hear more from the bottle bakers before I
feel it's worthwhile. From what I understand, you slowly heat/bake
the bottles with Al foil covers for a half-hour or so, and then let
them cool overnight. They are then stored with foil until ready to
bottle, correct? The foil hats are certainly not a perfect seal, does
the cooling process create a vacuum? If not, what's to prevent the
nasties from taking up residence in your bottles once again?
I'm thinking of making a molasses porter for my next brew. Anyone
have any experience/comments (I promise not to use any feedback to
kick your butt in subsequent competitions).
SM
Return to table of contents
From: "Dave Draper" <ddraper at laurel.ocs.mq.edu.au>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 07:06:28 +10
Subject: Using secondaries
Dear Friends,
Gregg Howard asked about using secondaries and yeast autolysis,
wondering whether there were benefits to using secondaries besides
avoiding autolysis, and whether that dread malady had ever been
experienced in HBDland.
I'll bite.
First, of course, I will answer the second question: Nope. Never to
my knowledge has autolysis affected my beers.
Second, to the first question, about benefits of using secondaries.
I use one for everything. It is my standard operating procedure, and
has been since my initial months of experimentation when I first
started brewing. My usual batches will spend as long as it takes in
primary for the gravity to fall to a few points above final gravity
(e.g. for a 1050 OG beer, when I expect FG to be say 1012, I will
rack at about 1015) and then from one to three weeks in secondary.
This is not to say that those brewers, Al Korzonas for example, who
use mostly primary-only procedures are wrong; it is just that I
prefer it this way.
My beers typically end up brighter than they did before because
there are two "cycles" during which "stuff" falls out of the beer; if
I wish to introduce finings I find it convenient to do so in the
secondary when there is less stuff to fine out; I also find
dry-hopping to be simpler in secodary than in a primary encrusted
with the remnant gunk of primary fermentation. I feel that these
issues allow me greater beer recovery-- i.e. I lose less to
primordial oozes and such, but acknowledge that we are talking about
a small amount here.
All of my fermentors are plastic with spigots in the bottoms.
Draining with gravity is the way I move my beer around, and if I use
a secondary then there is so much less stuff in the bottom that when
it comes time to bottle (I know, I know, I should keg, but I do not
have space in my apt. for that) that what I transfer to the bottling
bucket is nearly stuff-free. I have seen it written that the extra
racking step is one more episode during which infection and
oxidation are risked, but I believe that these are wholly non-issues.
Sanitization is so simple... and if one is at all careful then
introducing oxygen can be kept to a bare minimum.
In short, it works for my setup and the styles I brew. I think the
flavors I get are cleaner and the beers clearer than when I was using
just the one vessel. The extra effort involved is trivial, and (in
my case) it keeps more beer in various stages of fermentation than
would be the case otherwise.
Cheers, Dave in Sydney
"In my basement, there are cob webs over the fermenter." --Jim Busch
- ---
***************************************************************************
David S. Draper, Earth Sciences, Macquarie University, Sydney NSW Australia
ddraper at laurel.ocs.mq.edu.au http://audio.apana.org.au/ddraper/home.html
...I'm not from here, I just live here...
Return to table of contents
From: "C.D. Pritchard" <cdp at mail.chattanooga.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 96 08:06 EDT
Subject: re: hop storage
Kevin (liquori at acc.fau.edu) asks:
>I use hop pellets (from those nifty foil bags). How can I preserve the
>leftover pellets? Is a ziploc refrigerated bag sufficient? How long will
>they last?
Ziplocks aren't a good idea. They're a poor barrier to O2. My favorite for long
term "bulk" storage is a mason jar. Recycled, cleaned Wyeast pouches and hop
bags work well since much of the air can be squeezed out and they afford good
O2 protection. I've used one of those new-fangled vaccuum packaged coffee bags
with seeming success (6 months so far) for storage of hops in the freezer. Wash
them well and hang outside in in the sun until the coffee smell goes away- took
the one I tried several weeks.
c.d. pritchard (cdp at chattanooga.net)
web page: http://caladan.chattanooga.net/~cdp/index.html
Return to table of contents
From: "C.D. Pritchard" <cdp at mail.chattanooga.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 96 08:05 EDT
Subject: re: glass airlock, food & beer, acetobacters
Dennis Cabell <cabell at ix.netcom.com> posted:
>Does anyone know where I could find a glass airlock?
1. Alternative Beverage (in N. Carolina: 800-365-BREW) has one in the Spring
catalog: "Attractive and functional, but quite fragile", stock# AIR-G, $7.65
(ouch!). Doesn't say pyrex.
2. Just a brain-fart: Find a glass-blower (maybe via your local Art/Craft
association or yellow pages).
3. FWIW, I'm testing an autoclavable foam stopper from William's Brewing
(800-759-6025, 2 sizes: $.90 and $1.00). Looks promising so far. I'll try to
remember to post results. Anyone else using these?
Std. disclaimer... just a happy customer of any outfits mentioned...
- ----------------
Carter_Dave/splp_00 at me2.splp.com, in Subject: Beer & Food:
>Does anybody know of a source for recipies,(food recipies), using beer.
A great local Irish pub (Durty Nellie's) makes a fantastic chilli using Guiness
stout as an ingredient. I've tried to duplicate it by making a 3 qt. batch of
mild (to let the stout come through) chilli and adding 4 bottles of homebrewed
stout. Unfortunately, the stout was weak in roasted barley and a bit sweet, the
chilli didn't duplicate the "real" stuff but it was still very good. "Real"
stout or perhaps steeping roasted barley in the chilli would help. Stout fried
rice and beef and barley soup made with stout sounds tasty. Anyone tried these?
- ----------------
George_De_Piro at berlex.com (George De Piro) wonders:
>By the way, don't the acetobacters cause a film on the beer's surface?
Don't know about beers since I've not had a batch infected with them, but they
usually form a film or thicker "mother-of-vinegar" in homebrewed vinegar. I'm
no bacterialogist (I can't even spell it <g>), but, acetobacter infection
shouldn't be a real big worry in decently made homebrew since the little
buggers require a good deal of O2 to make vinegar.
George also requested:
>PLEASE STOP USING THIS FORUM FOR NON-BREWING ISSUES. This IS NOT the
>place for discussing the policies of the GABF, BATF...
FWIW, I don't mind and usually enjoy short/witty/occasional references along
these lines that are intelligently incorporated into a brewing post. IMHO, it's
the replies to such posts that distract from the Digest. Like George suggested
elsewhere in his post, private e-mail is the most effective and courteous way
to respond if ya think it necessary...
Happy Brewing to Ya!
c.d. pritchard (cdp at chattanooga.net)
web page: http://caladan.chattanooga.net/~cdp/index.html
Return to table of contents
From: Mark Peacock <mpeacock at oeonline.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 18:47:40 -0400
Subject: Directional Suggestions for a La Chouffe recipe
Chastened by earlier posts not to request recipes, I will instead ask for
directional suggestions for development of a La Chouffe-like beer.
The back label provides generous hints by listing the following ingredients:
"...Pilsner malt, English Golding & Saaz hop and coriander...". I've also
dumped the yeast deposit from the bottle dregs into a 750ml yeast starter
(OG ~ 1.040).
A couple of questions come to mind -- 1) Is La Chouffe a wit-like beer
without the lactic acid component?; or 2) Is Jim Busch's Esprit d' Boire
recipe from Winter 95 Zymurgy a better starting point?
I appreciate any pointers. I'll summarize all private e-mails to HBD.
Regards,
Mark Peacock
mpeacock at oeonline.com
Birmingham, Michigan (...but not for long)
Return to table of contents
From: sdginc at prodigy.com (MR STEPHEN D GARRETT)
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 20:12:56, -0500
Subject: All-Grain Extract Efficiency
Yesterday I brewed two 6 gallon batches- my 4th and 5th all-grainers.
Both were simple infusion mashes at around 153 degrees with mash-out
at 170 degrees. Batch 4 was mashed and sparged in my 10 gallon Gott
cooler mash/lauter tun. Batch 5 was mashed in an insulation covered
kettle then moved to the Gott cooler for the sparge. Mash-out for
batch 5 was done by direct heating (infusion for Batch 4).
I got a lousy 22 point extraction on batch 4 (similar to batches 1-3).
I got a 29+ point extraction on batch 5.
The 3 major differences with batch 5 that I can think of were:
1. Batch 4 was mashed for 90 minutes versus over 2 1/2 hours for
batch 5. The iodine extraction tests looked similar for the 2 batches.
2. Batch 4 sparge was begun at 170 degrees, but I noticed that by
the end of the sparge, the temperature in the uninsulated sparge
water stockpot had dropped to about 155 degrees. For batch 5, I kept
adding boiling water to the sparge stockpot to keep the temperature
around 170 degrees throughout the sparge.
3. Batch 4 used British 2-row pale ale, Batch 5 used US 2-row (first
time I've used it).
In the experience of other HBD'ers which if any or all were
responsible for the finally decent 29 point extraction?
Specifically:
Isn't 90 minutes long enough to mash?
Should I use an insulated sparge water container? How critical is the
temperature?
Can the type of malt cause that much difference?
Thanks,
Steve Garrett
sdginc at prodigy.com
Return to table of contents
From: kevin at wheels.aar.com
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 20:20:21 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Oxides of nitrogen revisited
Below is a personal email that I sent to Andy Walsh concerning oxides
of nitrogen. He encouraged me to post it, so here it is (partially
editted):
***************
Andy,
I figured I'd email direct, to avoid the resemblance of a posting
battle in HBD :)
The term nitrogen oxides is quite broad, and includes numerous compounds
of the general form NxOy, where x and y could be of a large set of
possible compounds of nitrogen & oxygen. An incomplete list is as
follows (there are others too):
NO bad * nitric oxide
NO2 bad nitrogen dioxide
N2O safe (nitrous oxide - a.k.a. laughing gas)
N2O3 bad nitrogen trioxide
N2O4 bad nitrogen tetroxide
N2O5 bad nitrogen pentoxide
* Used in the body to cause vasodialation, as a naturally occuring
substance, as well as in the immune system to kill invading cells.
This was only recently discovered - in maybe the last 8-15 years.
It is considered a NASTY toxic gas, and was a surprise to find that
it does exist in the human body! It is still a NASTY TOXIC gas!
The nitrogen oxide that is known to form nitrosamines, is N2O3.
N2O3 + H2O -> 2HONO (nitrous acid). This stuff reacts with some
types of amines and proteins to form nitrosamines. This nitrous acid
is formed in when sodium nitrite (NOT nitrate) reacts with acids, such
as is in your stomach. This is why people are concerned about nitrites
used in preserving meats (there is a huge amount of evidence on either
side of this battle, due to the complexity of the various proteins and
amino acids found in the stomach that it reacts with...).
Some of these compounds can react with water, oxygen, or other things,
to ultimately become another oxide of nitrogen, or acid thereof.
Of these oxides, nitrous oxide (N2O) is the safest, and most inert at
room temperatures. All other oxides are TOXIC, but N2O is rather
safe. It is the only oxide of nitrogen that does NOT react with water
to form an acid. If it were prone to produce nitrosamines, I would
doubt that it would continue to be used to make whipping cream (which
has soluble proteins to some degree). Secondly, if it was prone to form
such carcinogens with proteins, medical science would have pulled
N2O from use as a casual anesthetic in dentistry, because it might
react with the multitude of proteins in the human body. However, the
last time I visited a dentist, he was still administering N2O. At
least that is the case here in the US. Maybe your country did ban
it...?
You are right in questioning "nitrogen oxides" in beer, because nearly
all but N2O are dangerous. However, N2O is the only safe and stable
oxide of nitrogen at room & body temperatures. N2O which is packaged
for food use (i.e. whippets) is probably free from the other nastier
oxides of nitrogen.
I know I once reacted with over zealous concern to someone's question
whether is was safe to use glycerol to freeze yeast. I was basing my
concern on the fact that at high doses, glycerol is used to induce
renal failure in laboratory experiments with the kidney. So I
warned the person that I thought it was unwise to consume beer with
glycerol in it. I guess I over reacted on that one too :)
Take care!
Kevin
- --
Kevin Hass WB0DPN !
! Email for PGP public key.
kevin at babbage.aar.com !
Return to table of contents
From: "Dave Eddington" <homebrew at aristotle.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 21:49:58 -0500
Subject: Temp controllers
Bob Morris (bobkatpond at aol.com) writes:
>I found a source for Johnson Controls temperature controllers for $32.00.
>Does any one know any thing about this controller?
The Johnson Controls unit is the one most commonly used in keg coolers.
It is commercial-grade, and I think a much better piece of equipment than
the Hunter Airstat. Many homebrew suppliers sell these temp controllers in
the $60 range, so $32 sounds like a bargain, but as I understand it, you
have to add your own power cord (couple of bucks, or free if you rob it off
junk, plus wiring up three wires). William's Brewing, who sells a Johnson
controller, says it has a 30' to 80'F range with a 3 1/2'F differential,
meaning a controler set at 65' will cool to 61 1/2', shut off, and wait
until 65' to cycle the compressor. It will drive a 15 amp cooler and has a
6 foot capillary probe. Please e-mail the address of your supplier, or
better yet post it for everybody's benefit. Please note that I've never
used one of these units, and the favorable review I've given it is gleaned
from past information. I've never heard anything bad about it. OK,
OK...it doesn't have a clock on it like my Airstat. Happy?
*******************************
Dave Eddington "I love animals. They're delicious!"
Little Rock, AR
Homebrew at aristotle.net
Return to table of contents
From: EDWARD SPADONI <SL9YN at cc.usu.edu>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 21:17:24 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: racking, filtering\
First, thanks to all who responded to my fruit beers question. I think
we really beat the fruit beers to death, I'm glad, I learned a lot.
Anyway, I have a question about racking and filtering now. First of all
is it possible to do a third racking to help clear my brew? I know most
do a two stage (primary and secondary) and people have suggested 3
rackings for some fruit beers. Does this aid in clarity or is it a
waste of time in typical ales. Also, any feedback on when to filter or
ways to make your own filtering setup would be appreciated.
Return to table of contents
From: saunderm at vt.edu (J. Matthew Saunders)
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 23:45:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Errrrr....explosive fermentation
John W. Braue, III replys to my initial post:
>Of course, if your porter had an OG of 1.035, then I'm way off-
>base here.
No, John, you're right. The OG was about 1.062. I've mostly brewed
bitters with OG's of about 1.040 or so, but I have brewed several porters
and stouts with high OG's. This is the first that I've had such a violent
fermentation.
Thanks to all for private and public replies. Folks have recomended and
suggested everything from:
1) Using a smaller starter. (I've built up to large starters to reduce
lag time and I think I'm going to continue this practice)
2) "I dunno, but the same thing happens to me...."
3) It was suggested that I brew in the bathtub when I make high gravity beer.
4) Or in a washtub. Apparently plastic ones are available in KMart for
about $5.
Thanks again for the advice.
Cheers!
Matthew.
Return to table of contents
From: Michael Gerholdt <gerholdt at ait.fredonia.edu>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 96 00:06:25 -0500
Subject: American Oak,
- -- [ From: Michael Gerholdt * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --
David R. Burley wrote in HBD#2134:
<<
It might surprise you to know that scotch whiskey in the
old days was stored in oak sherry casks used to transport sherry from Spain
to
England rather than having their own casks made. Just a good Scot living up
to
his reputation, I guess! I do wonder how the old scotches stored this way
compare to today's?
>>
Try some Macallans - preferably the 25 year old, but the 18 year old is ok,
too.
Notice the faint blush to the scotch. Comes from being stored in just the
way you describe. The only scotch I personally know which does so.
- --
Best Regards,
P Michael Gerholdt
Return to table of contents
From: Tamth at mail.utexas.edu (Tam Thompson)
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 23:10:20 -0500
Subject: Johnson controllers
Hi Bob,
>From: BOBKATPOND at aol.com
>Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 08:18:10 -0400
>Subject: recipes/temp controllers
>
>I found a source for Johnson Controls temperature controllers for $32.00.
> Does any one know any thing about this controller?
>
>Bob Morris (bobkatpond at aol.com)
Yes, I have one and I like it. It is fairly robust, and the
resolution on the analog dial is about 1 degree F. The range,
I seem to remember, is about 20 F to 80 F. The accuracy is about
plus-or-minus 2 degrees F (I checked it against a mercury
thermometer.) It's very easy to install---you just stick the probe
in the fridge and close the door on the wire connecting the probe
to the controller. You plug the controller into an electrical
outlet, and then piggyback/plug the refrigerator (or what-have-you)
into the controller. It's easy.
Hope this helps,
Tam "that lady in Austin who hardly ever
posts anymore" Thompson
Tam Thompson, Ph.D. candidate
Mechanical Systems & Design Area, Robotics Research Group
Mechanical Engineering Department, The University of Texas at Austin
Tamth at mail.utexas.edu
Return to table of contents
From: Derek Lyons <elde at hurricane.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 23:00:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Bottle baking is OVERKILL!
At 11:28 AM 8/11/96 -0700, you wrote:
>
>I'm thinking of making a molasses porter for my next brew. Anyone
>have any experience/comments (I promise not to use any feedback to
>kick your butt in subsequent competitions).
>
Don't use blackstrap. Don't use too much molasses.
Return to table of contents
From: Wallinger <wawa at datasync.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 07:03:18 -0500
Subject: Gott Capacity
> Did you somehow misunderstand, Keith? Gott Cooler??
> An 18# grain bill in *my* 10 gal Gott is 4" from the top.
> Where is there space for another 10#??
Another data point - I recently made a Scotch ale in a 10
gal Gott with 28 lbs of grain and 6 gal water (just under
1 qt/lb), which left about a gallon of room. My tun has
about 1 qt of volume below the false bottom.
Wade Wallinger
STILL brewing contraband in Pascagoula, Mississippi
Return to table of contents
From: "Jurie Dekter" <juried at ozemail.com.au>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 22:50:07 +1000
Subject: Nokonmyrear
Nokonmyrear, you bring a broad smile to my face every time you post. All
homebrewers I ever knew had great senses of humour. All would look, laugh
and have another homebrew. You keep us from getting too serious. Keep it
up.
Return to table of contents
From: paa3983 at dpsc.dla.mil (Mike Spinelli)
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 96 08:47:18 edt
Subject: 50 gallon Gott-like cooler?
HBDers,
While walking into my local Home Depot, I stopped by the outside hotdog vendor
near the entrance. He's got 3 huge (like 50 gals.) red plastic cans filled with
ice and glass soda bottles. It appeared to be made just like the Gott with
double wall thickness. Didn't see a lid though.
Does anyone know anything about these monsters?
Mike
Return to table of contents
From: chairman at orbonline.net (David Poholko)
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 09:17:54 -0400
Subject: Re: BOUNCE homebrew: Bad Subject Line Re: Homebrew Digest #
>WARNING!
>
>Your message to the Homebrew Digest (undigested version) failed because
>the following appeared in the body or Subject line of your message:
>-------------
> Re: Homebrew Digest #
>-------------
>Your original message is appended. Please send (un)subscribe messages to
>homebrew-request@ aob.org or homebrew-digest-request@ aob.org.
>The following messages are scheduled to appear in the next digest
>
> 001 -- So ... what stage are we in now?
> 002 -- pet bottles & stores
> 003 -- High-acid beer?
> 004 -- Errrrr....explosive fermentation.
> 005 -- white film, autolysis
> 006 -- dry stouts again
> 008 -- Need drinkin' Santa clipart
> 009 -- batch sparging / Gott cooler volume
> 010 -- A specific question about SPECIFIC GRAVITY
> 011 -- Who Elected You?
>
>The rejected message follows:
>--------------
>Received: from ns.orbonline.net by bacchus.aob.org id aa01682;
> 8 Aug 96 23:37 MDT
>Received: from 97.gil.orbonline.net (97.gil.orbonline.net [204.50.18.97])
by ns.orbonline.net (8.6.12/8.6.9) with SMTP id BAA09279 for
<homebrew at aob.org>; Fri, 9 Aug 1996 01:37:11 -0400
>Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 01:37:11 -0400
>Message-Id: <199608090537.BAA09279 at ns.orbonline.net>
>X-Sender: chairman at mail.orbonline.net
>X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Version 1.4.4
>Mime-Version: 1.0
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>To: Homebrew Digest SUBMISSIONS only <homebrew at aob.org>
>From: chairman at orbonline.net (David Poholko)
>Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #2138 (Thursday, 8 August 1996)
>
>>
>>
>>Homebrew Digest Thursday, 8 August 1996 Number 2138
>>
>>
>> FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
>> Shawn Steele, Digest Janitor
>> Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
>>
>>Contents:
>> New Ethnic group (Guy McConnell)
>> Sulfites as sterilizants ("David R. Burley")
>> sending beer in mail ((Billy Cole))
>> RE: Temp Controller (John Wilkinson)
>> Re: Wyeast #1338 "European" Ale is slow to start (Miguel de Salas)
>> Re: Sparging technique, mashout / RE: RIMS Questions / Shawn's p ("Keith
>>Royster")
>> re: RIMS questions (Marty Tippin)
>> Re: PET bottles ("Terry Tegner")
>> blackberry-lambic (Hettsmac at aol.com)
>> NO SUBJECT
>>(pbabcock.ford at e-mail.com)
>> NO SUBJECT
>>(pbabcock.ford at e-mail.com)
>> Sparging - an alternative? ("Jurie Dekter")
>> Nitrogen in Beer, Bigotry ((Tom Lochtefeld (Risk Mgt)))
>> PET bottles ((Tom Lochtefeld (Risk Mgt)))
>> sanitizing bottles in oven (Lenny Garfinkel)
>> RE: Wyeast Scottish & European, Metal screen & BTF ((George De Piro))
>> Nitrosoamines ("Rich Byrnes")
>> Grain to Extra
>> (uszvnr96 at ibmmail.com)
>> Hefe Weizen ("Little, Wayne")
>> Superior brand dry Lager yeast ((Bob Wysong))
>> 120V Fermenation *Heater*? (KennyEddy at aol.com)
>> Questions: What to do with cold break/ use of whole hops ("Toler, Duffy L.")
>> Question on Rice Hull/Grain percentages (Joe Rolfe)
>> re: Reusing yeast ("Ed J. Basgall")
>>
>>For SUBMISSIONS to be published, send mail to:
>> homebrew at aob.org
>>For (UN)SUBSCRIBE requests, send mail to:
>> homebrew-digest-request@ aob.org
>> and include only subscribe or unsubscribe in the body of the message.
>>
>>Please note that if subscribed via BEER-L, you must unsubscribe by sending
>> a one line e-mail to listserv at ua1vm.ua.edu that says: UNSUB BEER-L
>>If your address is changing, please unsubscribe from the old address and
>> then subscribe from the new address.
>>If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first.
>>For technical problems send e-mail to the Digest Janitor, shawn at aob.org.
>>
>>OTHER HOMEBREW INFORMATION
>> http://www.aob.org/aob - The AHA's web site.
>> http://alpha.rollanet.org - "The Brewery" and the Cat's Meow Archives.
>> info at aob.org - automated e-mail homebrewing information.
>>
>>ARCHIVES:
>> At ftp.stanford.edu in /pub/clubs/homebrew/beer via anonymous ftp. Also
>> http://alpha.rollanet.org on the web and at majordomo at aob.org by e-mail.
>>
>>- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>From: Guy McConnell <guym at Exabyte.COM>
>>Date: Wed, 07 Aug 96 18:44:53 -0400
>>Subject: New Ethnic group
>>
>>Jim Overstreet <wa5dxp at worldnet.att.net> Writes:
>>
>>> It seems Robert Waddell cannot only not s
>>
>>------------------------------
>>
>>From: "Tim Helps" <tim_helps at mail.cpms.com.au>
>>Date: 8 Aug 1996 16:53:17 +0930
>>Subject: Supplier links
>>
>>A quick note to let you know
>>
>>STI and Smith& Wesson are now on the web
>>
>>STI at http://www.sti-guns.com/
>>S&W at http://www.Smith-Wesson.com/
>>
>>Enjoy
>>
>>Tim
>>
>>
>>------------------------------
>>
>>From: Daniel Slone <sloned at BCC.ORST.EDU>
>>Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 17:26:25 -0700 (PDT)
>>Subject: Re: ChampionshipcReferences:
>>
>>What a wierd posting
>>
>>Daniel Slone . sloned at bcc.orst.edu . (541)737-5524 . Entomology Department
>>2046 Cordley Hall . Oregon State University . Corvallis OR 97331-2907
>>PGP key, homepage, Nat. Sci. Illustration at: http://www.orst.edu/~sloned/
>>
>>
>>------------------------------
>>
>>From: Jeffrey Maass <jmaass at freenet.columbus.oh.us>
>>Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 21:41:45 -0400 (EDT)
>>Subject: Source of 9x21 Brass?
>>
>>What are the best known sources for Winchester or Tanfolio 9x21 brass?
>>Need to set in a supply for Nationals...
>>
>>Thanks!
>>
>>Jeff Maass (jmaass at freenet.columbus.oh.us) Amateur Radio K8ND
>> USPSA/IPSC # L-1192 NROI/CRO NW of Columbus Ohio
>>
>>
>>
>>------------------------------
>>
>>From: gunner10 at earthlink.net
>>Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 21:22:34 -0500
>>Subject: RE: Chicago CCW Study
>>
>>I have to it's about time someone else puts into writing what I knew was
>>true for the last decade!
>>
>>For ten years I lived in Georgia and had a concealed carry permit. I need
>>both hands and a foot to count the number of times that legally concealed
>>carry pistol prevented me from being a victim.
>>
>>DVC
>>
>>Mike
>>
>>
>>
>>------------------------------
>>
>>From: Kevin Flottmeyer <kevsue at iway1.iw.net>
>>Date: Thu, 08 Aug 1996 21:43:01 -0500
>>Subject: 26 rd mags
>>
>>Hi, I have a friend who will be going to the open nationals in Barry Il.
>>Someone told him that you could not start a stage with a 26 rd mag. He was
>>told that you must start with a normal length mag in your gun and then after
>>you start the stage you could switch to the long magazine. Does any one out
>>there know the rules as to what may be used for mags to start a stage.
>>Thanks for any info.
>>
>>DVC
>>
>>Kevin Flottmeyer
>>
>>
>>------------------------------
>>
>>End of ipsc-digest V1 #437
>>**************************
>>
>>
>I do not want to receive post from Home Brew Digest. Please remove me from
>your list. Thank you.>
>
>
Read my lips. I did not subscribe to your whatever in the first place. I do
not want you in my mailbox. YOU unsubscribe me. NOW.>
Return to table of contents
From: Don Trotter <dtrotter at imtn.tpd.dsccc.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 08:27:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Recipe requests
c.d. pritchard responded to my post:
>
>Really nice attitude there Don. Me and many, many other folks posting in the
HBD share the brewing knowledge we've learned. I'm sure some of the stuff could
be used against us in competitions. Using the same line of "reasoning" you do
re: recipes, we should be just as selfish and stingy with our knowledge as you
are with your recipes. Some HBD it'd be then, huh? I think you should seriously
reconsider what you posted and consider a followup post.
>
I won't apologize for not fitting your Mr. Nice Guy attitude. I will,
however, respond to your understanding of what I have said. Sharing
knowledge is the basis of this digest. That I have done and will
continue to do. I generally respond personally. I have shared
recipes, but have not heard back from any of the recipients. This
suggests, to me, that they are somewhat ungrateful. They could at
least let others know how they liked the beer, or at least offer some
criticism as to make the beer better. It's not being "selfish and
stingy", AND IF YOU DONT MIND, KEEP YOUR SILLY CHILDISH LABELS TO
YOURSELF.
nuff said.
don
Return to table of contents
From: lmatt <lmatt at nando.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 09:39:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Trub VIII
The TRUB VIII OPEN BJCP-registered homebrew competition is coming....
September 28, 1996, to the Carolina Brewery in Chapel Hill, NC.
Once again the TRiangle Unabashed homeBrewers will host our Fall homebrew
competition. This year, we have a new site, lots of new sponsors to help
us provide cool prizes, and a special new addition: The "Brew with Style,
not to Style, just plain good beer!" category.
A trophy and a $50 gift certificate from Brewbetter Supply in
Morrisville will be awarded to BOS, with a $25 gift certificate from
Brew Works of Apex going to the BOS runner up. In what has become a
long-standing TRUB tradition, we will, for the fourth year running, be
awarding a full case of beer (or the equivalent- no beer will be
shipped) donated by our sponsors to the first place
winner in each category. Other cool prizes will go to second and third
place winners in each category, as well as the usual ribbons.
An entry consists of two bottles with entry form and fees. Entry fees
are $5 each for the first two beers, $4 for the third beer and each beer
thereafter from the same brewer. No cider or sake will be judged. TRUB
VIII will be using a set of style guidelines modeled on the AHA and New
England homebrew guidelines with some improvements. Entry
deadline is Tuesday, September 24.
"The Brew with Style, not to Style, just plain good beer" Trophy: This
category is for the beer that tastes great but doesn't quite fit into any
recognizable style. Beers entered in this category will be mass-judged
by the remaining judges during the Best of Show round and will be
selected by acclamation. No scoresheets will be filled out, but the
winner will take home a special trophy, in addition to the envy of
his/her peers. Only one entry allowed per brewer. Three (3) bottles per
entry. Entry fee is $3.00. All other entry specifics (labels, deadlines,
etc.) are the same as for other entries.
To get more information, you can find the complete entry form and style
guidelines on our WWW page at: alpha.rollanet.org/~trub/TRUB.html
Or you can contact Craig Pepin (ckp at acpub.duke.edu or 919-286-7125) for
an entry form via snail-mail
Interested judges should contact Bryan Cronk (cronks at nando.net or 919-
528-3375)
Hope to see y'all there! Or at least your beers.
Return to table of contents
From: Scott Dornseif <SDORNSE at wpo.it.luc.edu>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 09:06:54 -0500
Subject: complaints
Hello;
I am writing to complain about all the people complaining in the HBD. People
whining
about how hard it is to read, what people write Blah, Blah Blah. If people
don't stop
complaining I am going to have to complain.
Thank you for your time.
Scott Dornseif
Return to table of contents
From: "John Penn" <john_penn at spacemail.jhuapl.edu>
Date: 12 Aug 1996 10:11:31 -0400
Subject: Recipes, Chocolate, etc.
Subject: Time:9:39 AM
OFFICE MEMO Recipes, Chocolate, etc. Date:8/12/96
RECIPES: I can respect Don's feelings about not wanting to give up an
award winning recipe, but I agree that most people aren't asking for that
when they ask about recipes. Many people would gladly give up their award
winning recipes anyway. I think many of us, especially those of us new to
homebrewing, would love just to be referred to a recipe on the Cat's Meow
that someone has tried and can comment on. I have asked about recipes
similar to a McEwan's Scotch Ale but didn't get much response--none on the
Cat's Meow, I'm sure that particular butterscotch flavor is hard to get but I
think I'll just try experimenting with something eventually and use Wyeast
1084 next time instead of the Wyeast Scottish Ale yeast based on what I've
seen in the HBD.
CHOCOLATE: As for Kevin's request for Chocolate recipes: I did two extract
chocolate beers recently substituting about 0.9# of light extract syrup for
every pound of pale or similar malt in a partial mash recipe--Chocolate Stout
from the Cat's Meow and Papazian's Slanting Annie's Chocolate Porter. Be
sure to increase the bittering hops a little since the concentrated extract
boil (2 gal) yields less bitterness than a full boil (5 gal). I could really
taste the chocolate in the Porter (12oz choc/5 gallons) at the beginning of
fermentation but not so at bottling time. Also, I couldn't taste or smell
the chocolate in the Stout (3oz/5 gallons) but my wife could smell it. So I
guess if you really want a chocolate/smell or taste you should probably try a
recipe with a lot of chocolate and then experiment with the amount until you
get a taste to your preference. Also, thanks to all for the advice on the
white residue in my chocolate porter which used cocoa. I got varying
opinions as to whether it was contaminated or not but the strange thing is in
my refrigerated bottles the residue seems to disappear (settling out?). They
still taste good but I will drink them soon, just in case.
SANITATION: I have a question based on something recently in the HBD. So
far I fill my bottling bucket with bleach solution and soak overnight.
Should I periodically remove the spigot and soak it separately as a possible
source of contamination around the rubber gasket?
FRUIT: I enjoy the fruit beer thread... keep up the good comments.
Thanks,
John Penn
Return to table of contents