Homebrew Digest Friday, 13 September 1996 Number 2186
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FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Shawn Steele, Digest Janitor
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
Homebrew stores in NC? (Vincent A Voelz (Vincent A Voelz))
dewolf cosyns malt ((BAYEROSPACE))
Mash Volumes (RUSt1d?)
10 gallon Gotts ("Paul Kensler")
Re: Keg Carbonation ("Mark C. Bellefeuille")
Badger Brew / Clean Copper / Who's Robbing Whom? (KennyEddy at aol.com)
Northdown hops (Dane Mosher)
Filling of corny kegs (Jim Busch)
Columbus Hops ("O'Mahoney, Larry")
Northdown hops, CAMRA recipe ("PAUL SHICK (216) 932-6196")
Hang-overs / CO2 Saturation (TEX28 at aol.com)
Bad Beer (Mike Kerns)
Re: Filling of corny kegs (RUSt1d?)
carbonating kegs ((Chuck Wettergreen ))
HBDposting for members only?!?!? (GARY MCCARTHY)
Homebrewing Software (MaltyDog at aol.com)
Sugar Beets ((Nathan L. Kanous II))
Web pages kaput / HSA during sparge ("Dave Draper")
Pils/Lagering in Cornelius/Counterflow ((A. J. deLange))
Spruce beer, ("David R. Burley")
RIMS heating ((Geoff Scott))
Re: Hop NOSE! (and ARMS!) ((Geoff Scott))
Novembeerfest 1996 (Rob Nelson)
Repitching Yeast ("Koucheravy, Ed")
RE: Out of date CO2 Bottles ("Dennis Marshall")
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Vincent A Voelz <voel0009 at gold.tc.umn.edu> (Vincent A Voelz)
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 96 11:32:43 -0500
Subject: Homebrew stores in NC?
A Marine friend of mine in Cherry Point, NC, wanted to get into home
brewing, but so far has not found any home brewing stores/suppliers near
him. Anyone familiar with the brew scene in his area? Nearby towns are
Havlock and Newburne. Private e-mail fine. Thanks.
Vincent Voelz <voel0009 at gold.tc.umn.edu>
Minneapolis, MN
Return to table of contents
From: M257876 at sl1001.mdc.com (BAYEROSPACE)
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 11:57 -0600
Subject: dewolf cosyns malt
collective homebrew conscience:
i recently received a private email from a fellow hber who claimed that
dewolf cosyns malt will give the *wrong* malt flavor for any type of german
beer attempted.
what is the basis for this? is this a maritime versus continental barley
issue? how much difference is there?
also, i have some used soda kegs that have some small dents on the inside.
no rough edges that i can see, no torn metal, but dented. is this a problem?
brew hard,
mark bayer
Return to table of contents
From: RUSt1d? <rust1d at li.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 13:06:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Mash Volumes
When raising mash temps throught either infusions or
decoctions, the volume of the mash must be known to
properly calculate the volume to add/decoct to raise
to a given temperature. This being said, can anyone
tell me what the resulting volume of 1 quart of water
mixed with one pound of grain??
John Varady
Boneyard Brewing Co.
"Ale today, Gone tomorrow"
Return to table of contents
From: "Paul Kensler" <pkensler at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 12:26:06 +0000
Subject: 10 gallon Gotts
Kevin MacRae wrote:
"My current setup is a half barrel for boiling(no screen or spigot) and a
10Gallon Gott with a plastic screen... I've already overshot the
Gotts 10 gallon capacity, without counting
the volume of grain and any additional water for a mashout at 165F...
If I can heat the whole mash to 158 should
I just do all my heating and rests in the keg and when its done gently
transfer to the Gott?"
Kevin,
I use a 10 gallon Gott, too, and I always (always, unless its just a
simple 5-gallon single infusion recipe) do my mashing in my boil
kettle, then transfer to the Gott for lautering and sparging. That
way, you can measure your current temperatures exactly, and don't
have to worry about calculating temperatures. Just be careful you
don't overshoot your target temperatures... When it comes time to
transfer, I just use one of those 1 gallon "malt buckets", and it
goes fairly quickly without too much aeration.
Hope this helps.
Paul
Return to table of contents
From: "Mark C. Bellefeuille" <mcb at abrams.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 11:25:34 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Re: Keg Carbonation
Tim.Watkins at analog.com askes:
>>I'm wondering if it is better to force carbonate in the keg, or prime
>>the keg and let it naturally carbonate?
>>I'm sure there's advantages and disadvantages to both, but I'm looking
>>for comments out there.
It depends (of course!). Do you move your kegs after they've been carbonated?
If you prime in the keg and then move them: plan on letting them sit until
the yeast has settled again. This will happen to force carbonated kegs as
well if you didn't wait long enough for the beer to clear before kegging.
I force keg my beers.
Most of the time I have a very small amount of yeast on the bottom of the
keg when I clean them. I move the kegs as necessary; but, I haven't tried
driving them across the state and then checking to see it the beer is still
clear. (I'm camping next weekend. I'll need beer in the mountains. I'll try
it and see. Report to follow.)
Mark
- ---------------------------------------------------------------
Mark C. Bellefeuille BEER! Because Barley makes lousy bread!
mcb at abrams.com Brewing in Phoenix AZ (602) 759-9273
- ---------------------------------------------------------------
Return to table of contents
From: KennyEddy at aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 14:31:56 -0400
Subject: Badger Brew / Clean Copper / Who's Robbing Whom?
Rick Olivo asks during an interesting historical piece:
"I must admit I am puzzled by the rapidity at which it was ready to drink. I
know honey meads can take over a year to properly mature. How could this brew
be ready to drink so soon?"
I'm definitely speaking out of turn, having made only one (truly mediocre)
mead ever, but I'd say that my emphasis above answers your question. These
"badgers" likely did not have refined palates, and I'd venture to say that a
just-finished-fermenting mead would taste pretty damned good to someone
living in a hole in the ground.
*****
Andy "the hysteria continues" Walsh suggests that too much copper oxide in
yer brew will have you asking, "IMBR"? Maybe so, maybe not, but if you want
to clean copper before use, use a 50% white vinegar solution soak for about
10 minutes. My lautering manifold is press-fit copper pipe & fittings, and I
just toss'em in a bowl of the stuff before I brew. I suppose you could spray
or wipe the vinegar onto a difficult surface such as a chiller coil, to avoid
having to use a lot of vinegar in a bucket or whatever. No scrubbing is
required.
*****
Richard Scholz writes about a Canadian Beer Heist:
"A thirsty thief hijacked a transport truck loaded with $60,000 Canadian
($43,748 U.S.) worth of beer...The truck was loaded with 5,700 cases of
beer.."
Less than $8 a case? I don't think the truck driver's the only one being
robbed!
*****
Ken Schwartz
El Paso, TX
KennyEddy at aol.com
http://members.aol.com/kennyeddy
Counter person at McDonald's: "What do you want to drink?"
James Buckley, aristocratic
candidate for senator: "What's your house Chablis?"
Return to table of contents
From: Dane Mosher <dmosher at xroadstx.com>
Date: Sun, 12 May 1996 14:01:00 -0700
Subject: Northdown hops
Bill Rust asks where he can get Northdown hops.
Hoptech (1-800-DRY-HOPS, http://www.hoptech.com)
sells pellets of Northdown. No affiliation, just
a satisfied one-time customer.
BTW, Northdown was bred from Northern Brewer and
like N.B., it is a good bittering and aroma hop.
N.B. would probably make a decent substitute.
Dane Mosher
Big Spring, Texas
Return to table of contents
From: Jim Busch <busch at eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 14:58:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Filling of corny kegs
The Coyote (welcome back!) writes:
<* In my experience with kegs- you can carbonate by simply setting the
<pressure where you want it, and waiting, and waiting.
Or, set it about 15-20 lbs above your target and reduce the time it sits
at that pressure before you disconnect and allow to equalize.
<Sanitize, AND sterilize your keg. Assemble, and prefill (purge) with CO2.
<Rack beer into keg. Leave some head space (about 5 or 6 inches). As any
<young teenie bopper will tell you- six inches is /THAT/ much (thumb &
<forefinger held up)
Im not sure how literally to take this! I like to fill the kegs just about
as full to the top as I can get it. Less air risk, even with purging. Just
dont want new keggers to leave 5-6" of head space, thats a lot of space!
(BTW, kegs dont need to be sterilized, sanitized is just fine ;-)
<I do this right after
<racking, so my brew is still warm. The next step is to put it in the
<fridge upright with gas attached at about 25 psi. I leave it overnight,
I wouldnt even bother with shaking a warm keg. I fill and purge, pull and
vent like noted and then put it in my coldest carbonating frige. Hook up
the CO2, dial to 25-30 psi and leave it there. A few days later its ready
to serve, or you can shake it the next day once its cold and serve it
almost right away.
Jim Busch
See Victory Brewing at:
http://www.victorybeer.com/
Return to table of contents
From: "O'Mahoney, Larry" <LLOM at chevron.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 96 14:15:00 CDT
Subject: Columbus Hops
I have just finished an extract receipe called "Columbus IPA" courtesy of
Hoptech in Pleasanton, Ca. and the Pacific Coast Brewery in Oakland. It's
*very* hoppy and bitter, using 2 oz. Columbus for the 60 minute boil, 2 oz.
flavor Columbus (10 minutes remaining in the boil) and dry hopped with 1.5
oz. Columbus in the primary.
I'm trying to find out more about the Columbus hops, but can't find anything
about it. Anyone know about these hops, and any experience using them in
darker ales?
Return to table of contents
From: "PAUL SHICK (216) 932-6196" <SHICK at JCVAXA.jcu.edu>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 15:25:09 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Northdown hops, CAMRA recipe
Bill Rust asked about Northdown Hops. They're available in the US from
HopTech at $10 for 8oz of pellets (1995 crop just now.) Northdown is
one of the newer general purpose British hops, working well for bittering
or later additions, with moderately high acid content (8.6% for my package.)
The closest alternatives are Target or Challenger (although they might be just
as hard to get.) The Northdowns worked very well for a Fuller's London Pride
"clone" that I brewed last month.
Bill also asked about a fairly mysterious CAMRA recipe for a "red bitter." The
color and SG might be understandable, since British pale malt tends to be
pretty dark, and the recipe was almost certainly for 23 liters (6 US gallons.)
The temperature listed (60C) is probably a typo. Does 154F sound better?
Paul Shick
Return to table of contents
From: TEX28 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 15:39:17 -0400
Subject: Hang-overs / CO2 Saturation
Thanks to all who responded. Seems to be interest in the hang-over thread,
but no consensus, and no clarification of what 'preservatives' might include.
To summarize the submitted theories (apologies to the submitters if I
misinterpret) -
1. The accumulation of acetaldehyde (product of chemical reactions occuring
primarily in the liver during alcohol metabolism) causes the hangover
symptoms. The effects should be no different in Canadian or U.S. beers.
2. The accumulation of acetaldehyde is caused by the lack of vitamin B, which
helps the body metabolize sugars/alcohol. Beer that is
filtered/centrifuged/pasturized is removed of yeast, which is high in vitamin
B. (a pre-indulgence concoction of 1 tbs. brewers yeast in orange juice
chased with an IPA is suggested as a precautionary measure).
3. The addition of sugar causes hang-overs. "...no added sugar, only real
malted barley, no hangovers...'. '...so called commercial beer brewed for
profit by the large industrial brewers does <cause hang-overs>'.
4. Dehydration due to the diuretic effects of alcohol. The body must have
water to properly metabolize alcohol.
5. The mental state or mood of the drinker.
6. The addition of a 'cobalt heading agent' to the beer. (The addition of
anything to a beer might become suspect.)
As budding scientists, we have decided to continue our research. We have
discovered that consuming Canadian beer brought back here to the states also
results in relatively hang-over free mornings (this discounts theory #5, as
we are not terribly happy to be back to work). We have had similar results
with my Homebrew, as well as several organically grown wines labeled 'no
added sulfites'. I would ask one more time - what preservatives are added to
commercial beer, and what are the possible effects? I have heard of allergic
reactions to sulphites (Our wine tests indicate that my drinking buddy has
this affliction. She is often terribly sick after drinking only a glass or
two of 'contains sulphites' wine, but not after the 'no added sulphites'
brands). Are they added to beer?
- ---------------------------------------
Finally a brewing related question - Alan Edwards posted a most useful CO2
saturation table relating temperature and keg carbonating pressure to obtain
a desired carbonation level. How does this relate to dispensing pressure? A
few months back Ken Schwartz discussed the expected pressure drop from keg to
mug through the various fittings, length of tubing, etc. If the carbonating
pressure and dispensing pressure are different, how do you keep the
carbonation level constant? (Considering the change of temp. when moving keg
to fridge, and the possible loss of carbonation as the keg is drained.)
Thanks (again)
Chris Pertschi
Return to table of contents
From: Mike Kerns <mck at yar.cusa.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 13:58:07 -0600
Subject: Bad Beer
Sorry, I gotta go with Matt on this one. The only two beers I ever poured
down a sink were a warm pabst and a cold Red White & Blue (Gimme a break, I
was young). To call that swill beer is an insult to barley.
Mike
Return to table of contents
From: RUSt1d? <rust1d at li.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 16:08:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Filling of corny kegs
>I wouldnt even bother with shaking a warm keg. I fill and purge, pull and
>vent like noted and then put it in my coldest carbonating frige. Hook up
>the CO2, dial to 25-30 psi and leave it there. A few days later its ready
>to serve, or you can shake it the next day once its cold and serve it
>almost right away.
From the charts I have seen you pretty much want to set your pressure to
about 8.2 lbs to carbonate a keg thats at 32F to 2.5 volumes. If you
hook your keg up at 25-30 psi and put it in your coldest fridge (say 40F)
wouldn't you be overcarbonating??? Running these numbers through the posted
(P=-16.6999-0.0101059T+0.00116512T^2+0.173354TV+4.24267V-0.0684226 V^2)
formula indicates that you would be carbonating over 3.5 volumes. Am I
missing something here? or do these numbers mean naught?
John Varady
Boneyard Brewing Co.
"Ale today, Gone tomorrow"
Return to table of contents
From: chuckmw at mcs.com (Chuck Wettergreen )
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 96 15:09 CDT
Subject: carbonating kegs
To: homebrew at aob.org
Brewers!
A current thread deals with the best/quickest way to carbonate a keg.
Here's another. When you purchase an airstone from Gulfstream Air
Products (I *think* that's the name), they include instructions for
using your airstone for carbonating your keg. In fact, the instructions
are *only* about this; nothing about wort areation.
Beer should be chilled. Basically the instructions say to attach
the airstone to a 1/4" hose, and attach the other end to the "gas-in"
tube, inside the keg. The hose should probably be about two feet long.
It's best to heat the end of the tube with hot water first to make it
easier to slip onto the gas-in stub.
Once the line is in place, bleed gas into the keg in two pound increments,
waiting until it stops bleeding into the keg. Keep increasing (in two pound
increments) until you reach the gas saturation you need (he provided a
table of beer styles/pressure). Once the beer is where you want it, bleed
off the pressure, remove the line and airstone, re-seal and re-pressurize.
Using this method, you can completely carbonate in just a few minutes.
Obviously this is going to work better the finer the airstone. The one I
purchased is two microns. Others sold by other homebrew suppliers are as
much as 30 microns.
Also, Dion Hollenbeck wrote an article about a year ago for Zymurgy that
showed how to build a corney keg lid with separate gas-in fitting on the
top, and airstone attached underneath. This probably is the best, and
easiest method.
Cheers,
Chuck
chuckmw at mcs.com
Geneva, IL
* RM 1.3 00946 *
Return to table of contents
From: GARY MCCARTHY <MCCARTHY at IOMEGA.COM>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 13:38:06 -0600
Subject: HBDposting for members only?!?!?
Hello All:
I think this debate over allowing only HBD members is plain stupid,
or at least a Republican notion. I do not subscribe to the HBD, I
get it from the site at Stanford
(ftp.stanford.edu/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer). Every day! I do not
want to subscribe, I feel that this makes me rely on the internet
Gods for delivery, and I could miss a day and have to go get it
anyway. I do not want to wait for a 40 K letter to download through
my telephone connection to my ISP, although I do not know how long a
wait that might be.
I thought that home brewing and the HBD was one of the last bastions
of free thought, but I guess I was wrong. As more and more people
know of home brewing, the gene pool is obviously diluted and the
Republicans move in with their *pass more laws, so that we can
control the fringes of our society*.
Yeah, keep the riff-raff out by making the HBD a posting for
subscribers-only forum. Yes, the war on drugs is working and
cost-effective also.
Gary McCarthy in SLC
The test tubes and the scale, just get it all out of here,
I think the people down the hall know who we are! Steely Dan
Return to table of contents
From: MaltyDog at aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 17:25:31 -0400
Subject: Homebrewing Software
I'd like to hear from anyone out there about the merits of the various
homebrewing software available (i.e., Suds, etc.). If there's been
discussion about this in the recent past, perhaps someone can direct me to
the right place in the Archives.
Bill Coleman
MaltyDog at aol.com
Return to table of contents
From: nkanous at tir.com (Nathan L. Kanous II)
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 17:24:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Sugar Beets
Alright. I've searched the archives and they do indicate that sucrose
(tablet sugar) is derived from sugar beets. I'm just curious if anyone has
mashed with sugar beets in the past? I live in Mid-Michigan and there are
sugar beet fields all around and I thought it may be worth trying a "local"
style. Private e-mail is fine. TIA.
Nathan
Return to table of contents
From: "Dave Draper" <ddraper at laurel.ocs.mq.edu.au>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 07:43:15 +10
Subject: Web pages kaput / HSA during sparge
Dear Friends,
Anyone out there trying to access my web pages (listed in the .sig
below), they have been summarily deleted by the people at the server
who have been hosting them for some time now. Did they warn me? No.
I did not find out until I went in to maintain my pages... logged
into my space and hey! No files. I am in the process of transferring
them back to my original space, and when that is done I will post to
that effect. Apologies to anyone trying to get to the priming stuff,
or the yeast slants stuff, or the FWH page... or anything else.
In #2184, Mike Demers wrote:
"I've always been of the opinion that it really doesn't matter if the
sweet liquor gets aerated during the sparge because you boil off all
of the oxygen anyway. I'm not sure if this theory is correct or not,
but like I said, I have no problems with HSA as far as I can tell."
I do not doubt that you have not detected any HSA problems (viz. the
recent discussion here suggesting that it may be an exaggerated
concern on the homebrew scale) but the concept above is not correct.
Oxygen interaction with hot mash or wort will oxidize melanoidins,
that is the oxygen will chemically alter their composition (real
chemists please don't cringe *too* much), and this is fundamentally
different from dissolving oxygen (O2) molecules into the liquid.
That is, oxidation does not equal oxygenation/aeration. Yes, any
oxygen that dissolves *as O2* will be driven off during the boil, but
once the melanoidins are oxidized, that's it, no turning back.
Melanoidins oxidize readily, and the goal is not to oxidize them
until absolutely necessary-- that is, way downstream in the brewing
process, like during aging. If they are unoxidized early in the
process, they are there later to oxidize first from the inevitable
introduction of oxygen later on in the process, instead of other
things (alcohol to aldehydes?) oxidizing to produce unpleasant
flavors.
Cheers, Dave in Sydney
"Life is short; grain is cheap." ---Rich Lenihan
- ---
***************************************************************************
David S. Draper, Earth Sciences, Macquarie University, Sydney NSW Australia
ddraper at laurel.ocs.mq.edu.au http://audio.apana.org.au/ddraper/home.html
...I'm not from here, I just live here...
Return to table of contents
From: ajdel at interramp.com (A. J. deLange)
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 23:54:27 -0500
Subject: Pils/Lagering in Cornelius/Counterflow
RE Bill Giffin comments on Pils mash thickness: I also dough in with about
a quart per pound and infuse to the acid rest. I also add some water to the
first and second decoctions to get the mash on the way and thin it somewhat
to prevent scorching. I find that these additions are more than made up for
by the water lost during the decoctions and fairly liberally add infusions
of water to the rest mash during the lauter decoction. I want the mash to
be fairly loose before transfer to the lauter tub as I believe this aids in
the formation of a properly stratified grain bed. After collection of wort
down to about 2 P I have just about the length I'm shooting for and thus
have to add additional water to makeup for the water lost during the boil
i.e. the loose mash at lauter is not so thin reduction by boiling is
required. Recognize that my equipment and technique is likely to give
different results from someone else using different equipment.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
There's been some discussion of lagering in Cornelius kegs. I do this as a
matter of course. Once the gravity is within a degree or so of terminal, I
blow down the yeast and counter-pressure transfer to kegs. George De Piro
posted concerns about venting of volatiles. I don't worry about this
because either the beer is fermented to the point where the volatiles have
been scrubbed by the CO2 or the Cornelius must be vented during lagering to
keep the pressure within reasonable limits (mostly a dissolved CO2 level
concern though Greg Noonan has publised that lagering should not take place
above 5 psig.) In other words, there is a certain amount of CO2 which is
produced when a certain amount of sugar is fermented and most of this is
going to be vented one way or another even if it through a slow gas leak
around a cold, hard keg O-ring. One can buy pressure relief valves to
automatically vent the keg as the gas pressure rises above an adjustable
pressure.
I have often wondered if the scrubbing of volatiles could be speeded up by
repeating cycles of over-pressurizing followed by venting. Finally I'll
comment that its been my observation that production of H2S with lager
strains dropped noticeably when I started oxygenting my worts to reasonable
levels.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Braam Greyling asked about cleaning counterflow chillers. My personal
scheme involves running left over boiling water (kept around for
replenishing losses in the kettle as explained above) through it to 1. push
the last of the wort into the fermenter and 2. rinse the insides of the
thing. I then shut off the heat and cooling water, add some beer line
cleaner to the remaining hot water and recirculate that through for a few
minutes to remove proteinaceous material and then finish off with lots of
cold water. I have seen it suggested that one can coax a lead sinker
attached to fishing line through the coil and then pull brushes through
with the fishing line but I've been too timid to try that.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Orville Deutchman asks what his gas supplier (who is a swapper, not a
filler) will do when he brings in a tank with an out of date hydro test. I
immagine that depends on the supplier. The local company around here would
(i believe) simply swap it. Part of the price of the gas includes keeping
the tanks in spec. By contrast, on one occasion I "filled" a bottle which I
thought was empty (but it wasn't) and blew the pressure relief disk. In
this case they charged me a $12 "service" charge and swapped it.
A.J. deLange Numquam in dubio, saepe in errore!
ajdel at interramp.com
Return to table of contents
From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202 at CompuServe.COM>
Date: 12 Sep 96 20:48:22 EDT
Subject: Spruce beer,
Brewsters,
Rick Olivo talks about "Badger Beer". Very interesting. I'm sure that if honey
were diluted to the same approximate OG as wort for beer it would ferment just
as fast. I suspect the use of Spruce ends ( that is the lighter colored growing
ends of the blue spruce, rather than the needles) to flavor beer was not an
invention to the Scandinavians who made up a large part of the population in
the area and who drank Spruce Beer back home for centuries before hops were
introduced. The American Heritage Dictionary p 1183, 2nd ed 1982 says "spruce
beer a slightly fermented beverage made with an extract of spruce needles and
twigs with molasses or sugar".
Braunsweiger Mum(m) ( Papazian's HB Companion p378) includes spruce bark and
the
growing blue spruce ends and many spices and unusual ingredients including ten
unbroken, uncracked freshly laid eggs ( likely the origin of "What do you want?
egg in your beer? Just kidding.) I also have seen a recipe for spruce beer I
think in Papazian's first book -"Joy of HB" ( where IS that book?) anyone still
have a copy or a recipe?
I suggest you start with an OG of about 1.050 made from honey. Use a beer yeast
starter or a sourdough starter as your source of yeast ( although sourdough
contains both a yeast and a bacterium). put about a pint of spruce ends in a
quart of water. Boil covered for 5 minutes, cool and steep under a lid. Use
this spruce tea to flavor your Badger Brew.
It is interesting you should speculate that sourdough bread starter ( or
leavin's as they were called in the Midwest) was used to start the
fermentation.
In Alaska and along the NW American coast, miners were reputed to drink the
liquid from large barrels of sourdough starter for its alcoholic content. This
was called "Hooch" since a local Indian tribe called the Hoochino drank this
and apparently even distilled it and is the origin for the word in our
vernacular or so go the miner's tales. The sourdough makes me think of Alaskan
miners and about the Tale of Sam McGee. "Shut the door, it's cold in here!" And
Babe the Blue Ox and all those lakes in Minnesota .........
- -------------------------------------------------------
Rick Olivo claims to have hated the Old Dutch beer he drank in Ohio while
selling cable TV to the "hillbillies". There are no native hillbillies in Ohio,
they're in the southern Appalachian Mountains. You probably met the "Br'ar
hoppers" from Kentucky and WVa.
Who sold you the Old Dutch?
This used to be called Dutch beer, but when no one bought it 'cept "furiners",
they changed its name.
- -------------------------------------------------------
Andy Walsh writes about dirty copper and I'm reminded of the Phrase "what's a
penny made of?"
Cupric ion in many ways is a lot like calcium in its acid/ base reactions but
not its oxidation reactions and it will likely precipitate out in the same pH
range as beer as part of ( and cause a) haze. Iron and copper concentrations in
a haze are increased to a large degree over the solution concentration. Copper
sulfate in ppm concentrations ( like 5ppm) are used to remove hydrogen sulfide
and related mercaptans from wine. These come out as the very insoluble cupric
sulfide. Copper has been used for centuries in cooking and water pipes of
many, many houses in the US and Britain ( and likely Oz) have copper piping. As
long as iron doesn't exist in the water in the ferrous state it will not
promote
the solution of copper metal and copper metal is not soluble in acid. The
oxides of copper are soluble in acid and if they are on the surface they will
dissolve. Cupric ion is a necessary ingredient in needed minerals for health in
low concentrations. In higher concentrations it is a poison. Andy's point
about dealing only with clean copper is well taken. What kinds of concentration
are we talking about? anybody?.
- -------------------------------------------------------
Keep on brewin'
Dave Burley
Kinnelon, NJ 07405 USA
103164.3202 at COMPUSERVE.COM
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From: gscott at io.org (Geoff Scott)
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 21:03:59 -0400
Subject: RIMS heating
Sort of along the lines of the recent RIMS thread I thought I might point
the interested to a new web page that describes a setup that achieves
temperature boosts by recirculating the mash liquor through a coil in the
hot liquor back.
Check out Rick Calley's page at:
http://www.pressenter.com/~rcalley
And more specifically:
http://www.pressenter.com/~rcalley/how.htm
regards,
Geoff Scott
gscott at io.org
Brewing page http://www.io.org/~gscott
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From: gscott at io.org (Geoff Scott)
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 21:03:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Hop NOSE! (and ARMS!)
In Digest 2184 The Coyote wrote:
>While tiptoeing on the very top step of my rickety old wooden
>ladder I was picking handful after glorious handful of almost
>too ripe cascade...I had a horrible sneezing fit...Whew- I
>tell you. It was a BAAAD allergic reaction. I've run into
>some sniffles before when picking my hops, and have a history
>of allergies to pollen, but this baby knocked me over.
My experience the last two hop harvests was remarkably similar.
First it was the itchy nose, then my arms started. Unfortunately
my crop was small enough that I could put up with the symptoms
until I was finished harvesting. A shower went a long way
towards making me feel better but I had that same fear that
this could turn into an allergy to hops in beer. I've started
myself on a strict sensitizing regimen to ward off that
possible outcome. I'm ensuring that I get enough Pale Ale in
my diet that I can maintain the necessary antibodies.
>Well, next time I'm gonna wear a dust mask. Its getting to
>the point where I might need to get one of those fancy schmancy
>space suits like Kirk wore in the Tholean Web, or where Spock
>and co. got that infection that made em all crazy- Sulu the
>swashbuckler,,,,oh yeah. Brewing again....
Another unusual footnote was that after picking my hops I felt
kind of introspective. I kept rubbing the palm of my hand.
Oh - and there was this maraca sound too.
regards,
Geoff Scott
gscott at io.org
Brewing page http://www.io.org/~gscott
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From: Rob Nelson <70206.1316 at CompuServe.COM>
Date: 12 Sep 96 21:05:20 EDT
Subject: Novembeerfest 1996
For Immediate Release
The Brews Brothers
Malting, Mashing, Sparging, Hopping, Barming, & Drinking Society
Of Greater Seattle
Are Proud to Announce
Novembeerfest 1996
The Premier Homebrewing Competition
Now open to the entire known universe!
The Brews Brothers annual Novembeerfest homebrew competition has been
the leading homebrewing competition in the Pacific Northwest for the
past several years. Because the Brews Brothers now boast a larger number
of BJCP certified judges, we decided to allow ANYONE to enter our
competition, not just those living in the northwest.
The actual competition will be held on November 2, 1996 at the Redmond
Brewing Company from 10:00 until we finish awarding the Best of Show
trophy. We ask that brewers submit three standard brown bottles and
$5(U.S.) per entry. The entry deadline is October 30. Those traveling
from foreign countries who arrive later than the deadline may enter as
late as 7:00PM on November 1 for an additional $5(U.S.) late fee.
The Best of Show winner will receive a magnificent engraved crystal
stein with their name (and their beer s) prominently displayed. Class
winners will receive custom parchment certificates with appropriately
colored ribbons. As of this writing, we are gathering a plethora of
commitments from sponsors for prizes. It s safe to say that if you brew
a decent beer, you ll receive some sort of prize!
You may find out more about Novembeerfest in several ways:
Point your browser at http://members.aol.com/novembeer - This is a
temporary home for the Brews Brothers Web Site until a more
suitable Windows NT host can be found. We ll leave a pointer
there indefinitely however.
Call (206) 788-0271 and choose mailbox 2. You may leave a voice
mail message and I will return your call.
If you call the number above from a fax machine, you may request
bottle tags, rules, style guides, entry forms, and prize samples
by return fax.
Sent e-mail to Rob_Nelson at msn.com or jhinken at accessone.com
Contact us on AOL at NOVEMBEER
Contact us on CompuServe at 70206,1316
Potential judges should contact darrylri at microsoft.com
You may download NBFPAK.ZIP from this service. It contains full
page GIF file renditions of the bottle tags, rules, styles, and
entry forms.
We look forward to sampling your best efforts!
Bro Rob Nelson
Registrar
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From: "Koucheravy, Ed" <KOUCHERA at pentagon-paed.army.mil>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 96 09:55:00 PDT
Subject: Repitching Yeast
Dave Burley Wrote in #2183:
"I rack to the secondary after a week, normally, to get the beer off the
majority of the trub and to give me a relatively pure yeast deposit in
the secondary with which to krausen and hold over for the next ferment
as a chilled slurry in a capped bottle. "
Question: Since I just saved the yeast from my secondary in this manner,
and it sits now in my refrigerator, what preparation is needed before I
pitch this slurry in my next batch? Also, how long can I reasonably
store this in my refrigerator? Thanks
Ed Koucheravy
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From: "Dennis Marshall" <marshall at ccom.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 18:29:22 +0000
Subject: RE: Out of date CO2 Bottles
Orville wanted to know if his CO2 Tank which had its last hydrostatic
test dated in 1989 was still valid.
I believe hydrostatics tests need to be repeated every five years,
in that case you need to get it done again
Dennis
******************************
Dennis B. Marshall
The Brew House
Advanced Homebrewing Equipment
http://amsquare.com/brewhouse/
marshall at ccom.net
******************************
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