---

   FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
        Mike Donald, Digest Janitor-in-training
        Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!

Contents:
  teflon washers ((Jeff Sturman))
  PPBT & judging / hops and dogs ((David C. Harsh))
  X-Sender: grosbl at ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu ("Bryan L. Gros")
  Variety Pack ("Craig Rode")
  Robotic pallette--who cares? (Jeremy Bergsman)
  Lautering Rye (Steve Alexander)
  Peated Malt, Air Filtration (Hugh Graham)
  minikegs (Terry White)
  Re: The Un-Believer's Six-Pack (Geoff Bagley)
  RE: "Tapping" a fridge (Dave Broughton - PICCO)
  6 pack ((LaBorde, Ronald))
  sixpack conversions ((beerdogs))
  unsubsribe steg at prolog.net (steg at postoffice.ptd.net)
  aeration, & "choreboys" (John Bell)
  RE: The un-believer's Six-Pack (Tom Lombardo)
  Subject: The Un-Believer's Six-Pack ("Robert Petersen")
  Beer is Beer six pack (TPuskar at aol.com)
  hops and dogs ("Robert Petersen")
  False Bottom Selection (Kirk R Fleming)
  Beer for the Un-Believers (Kurt Schilling)
  Harvest Festival English Ale (Annetmark at aol.com)
  Ph and partial mash (Anton Schoenbacher)
  Aeration filter sanitation ("Sutton, Bob")
  dry hopping (DownAPint at aol.com)
  Looking for Youngs Oatmeal Stout Recipe ((Raymond P Kasprowicz))
  Making a Mead Starter (Steve)
  sanitation (Kathy Booth )

For SUBMISSIONS to be published, send mail to:
  homebrew at aob.org
For (UN)SUBSCRIBE requests, send mail to:
  homebrew-digest-request@ aob.org
  and include ONLY subscribe or unsubscribe in the BODY of the message.

Please note that if subscribed via BEER-L, you must unsubscribe by sending
  a one line e-mail to listserv at ua1vm.ua.edu that says: UNSUB BEER-L
If your address is changing, please unsubscribe from the old address and
  then subscribe from the new address.
If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first.
For technical problems send e-mail to the Digest Janitor,
homebrew-digest-owner at aob.org.

OTHER HOMEBREW INFORMATION
  http://www.aob.org/aob - The AHA's web site.
  http://alpha.rollanet.org - "The Brewery" and the Cat's Meow Archives.
  info at aob.org - automated e-mail homebrewing information.

ARCHIVES:
  At ftp.stanford.edu in /pub/clubs/homebrew/beer via anonymous ftp.  Also
  http://alpha.rollanet.org on the web and at majordomo at aob.org by e-mail.

COPYRIGHT:
  As with all forums such as this one, copyrights are retained by the
  original authors. In accordance with the wishes of the members of the
  Homebrew Digest, posts to the HBD may NOT be sold or used as part of a
  collection that is sold without the original authors' consent. Copies
  may ONLY be made available at no charge and should include the current
  posting and subscription addresses for the HBD.


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: brewshop at coffey.com (Jeff Sturman)
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 14:31:28 -0600
Subject: teflon washers

Does anyone know where I can find teflon washers?  I've come across a dozen 
or so oxygen tanks that I am converting to brewkettles and I need the 
teflon washers for the drain valves.  I think these same types of washers 
are used with the Easymasher, however I need 1/2" i.d. washers.  I am in 
Wyoming (aka the middle of nowhere) and I cannot find any source for these 
washers locally.  Any help greatly appreciated. 
 
jeff 
casper,wy 
 
 

Return to table of contents


From: dharsh at alpha.che.uc.edu (David C. Harsh)
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 17:12:49 -0400
Subject: PPBT & judging / hops and dogs

On the PPBT stuff: 
 
        First, I agree with Rob Moline that most competitions have an 
element of crap shoot in them.  If your beer matches the style in the minds 
of the judges, you win.  Especially in styles where the guidelines say 
things like "hop aroma low to high" (or even "medium to high").  Everyone 
has their idea of the perfect example of each style and the majority are in 
your zone, you come out ahead. 
 
        As far as the qualification of PPBT judges goes, I think the 
problem was that there was a lot of (perceived) arrogance from people 
involved with the program assuring that all the judges were wonderful 
without actually telling us how they knew this.  Jeanne did explain the 
program fairly well - it makes it pretty clear that the judges are all 
brewing professionals, no home brewers need apply.  The GABF has the right 
to run these things however they want, although the snide attitude towards 
the BJCP is insulting - if taking the exam truly below the level of the 
judges, let them take it and prove it. 
        Concerning the HBD as an appropriate forum for discussion of this 
issue, let the collective decide. 
 
On hops and dogs- 
 
bob rogers asks: 
>does anybody _know_ if growing hops are bad for dogs? 
 
Actually, growing hops is very good for dogs.  Gives them a way to occupy 
themselves so they don't end up joining gangs or harassing the neighbors. 
And of course, dogs are naturals at fertilizing so they usually get a good 
crop. 
 
Seriously, if your dog is into munching things, I wouldn't do it.  Even if 
he isn't, I still wouldn't.  Hops being toxic after use would mean they are 
toxic on the vine too.  Some dogs ignore plants, some dogs go after them. 
 
Adios. 
 
Dave 
 
 

Return to table of contents


From: "Bryan L. Gros" <grosbl at ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu>
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 16:48:04 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: X-Sender: grosbl at ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu

Fred Waltman writes: 
>There has been some discussion of the proper amount of Baird Peated Malt 
>to use in a recipe. You should be aware that there are both "Light Peat" 
>and "Medium Peat" (and for all I know a "Heavy Peat") versions.  This may 
>account for the different results people have posted. The Medium is much 
>stronger. If your retailer buys full bags, they should know which one they 
>have. 
 
There was a short article about smoked beers in the latest Southern 
Draft (I think).  The author mentioned that, not only is the "Medium 
Peat" stronger, but the strength is more variable batch to batch. 
 
The author (from Dixie Brewing, New Orleans) also mentioned that 
there are German smoked malts available.  I've never seen these offered 
before, however, has anyone else?  Maybe the German malts are 
smoked over the more traditional beechwood. 
 
I think I'd much prefer beech or hickory smoke to peat if I was 
going to make a smoke beer. 
 
******* 
 Darrin Pertschi <darrinp at cowles.com> writes: 
> 
>In the grain-bag-mashing thread, Ken says: 
>"To be on the safe side, stick with around 1-1/2 quarts water per pound of 
>steeped grains..." 
>Why is this? I think I recall someone else stating no more than 1 gal. per 
>pound of grains. 
> 
>I regularly fill my pot with two gallons of water and steep my grains at 
>150 for 30 to 60 min. I may have between one half and two pounds of 
>grain. No rhyme or reason to my water volume, I just figured the more 
>water the more goodness that could escape from the grains. It sounds like 
>I'm wrong, but why? 
 
If you're steeping specialty malts like crystal, chocolate etc. then you're 
fine. 
Don't worry about it. 
 
I think Ken is talking about mini-mashing.  If you're steeping grains 
like pale malt, biscuit malt etc. which need to be mashed, then you don't 
want so much water (see selected posts over the last week or two). 
Basically, with mashing the enzymes that convert the starch to sugar 
are in the water.  Too much water will dilute the enzymes and make 
your mash less successful. 
 
          - Bryan 
            grosbl at ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu 
            Nashville, TN 
 

Return to table of contents


From: "Craig Rode" <craig.rode at sdrc.com>
Date: 4 Oct 1996 16:57:40 -0600
Subject: Variety Pack

Ken Schwartz writes: 
 
If you had to assemble a six-pack of beer to give to a "beer is beer" type 
person, which six would it be? 
 
Ok, so compared to Al K or Jim B I'm not exactly a beer scholar.  But dammit, 
I'm from Milwaukee and have been drinking beer for 22 years (uh..legally) so 
I'll bite: 
 
Grant's Imperial Stout, Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, Pilsner Urquell, McEwans 
Tartan Ale, Paulaner Mai Bock, and Fuller's ESB. 
 
I know I have not listed fruit/wheat/lambic etc etc etc but maybe I was 
thinking of what I would like in front of me right now..... 
 
Craig  (Milwaukee, Wi....Whence we chased Schlitz outta town) 
 

Return to table of contents


From: Jeremy Bergsman <jeremybb at leland.stanford.edu>
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 14:20:35 -0800
Subject: Robotic pallette--who cares?

Carl Hattenburg writes: 
> Specific Gravity, Original Extract (w/w), Original Extract (w/v), 
> Alcohol (v/v), Real Extract (%w/v), Apparent extract (%w/w), 
> Apparent extract (%w/v), Real degree of fermentation (%), 
> Apparent degree of fermentation (%), Real fermentation (%), 
> Apparent fermentation (%), Extract/Alcohol Index, 
> Refractive Index, Calories (100g), Calories (100ml), 
> Calories (12 oz), Kilo Joule (100g), Kilo Joule (100ml), 
> Kilo Joule (12 oz), Present Gravity, Spirit Indication, 
> Extract Gravity, Degrees Lost, Original Gravity. (whew!) 
> 
> Ok - as I love & appreciate the HBD and it's users, I 
> would like to offer the services of my 'robotic palate' 
> to the consortium....you send me a bottle (or a keg!!!) 
> of your homebrew, and I'll send you the printout of the 
> results! (I keep the *brown* bottle...and the kegs!)... 
 
If this is a joke, I don't get it.  If it isn't a joke, 
I don't get it.  If you just measure your specific gravity 
before and after fermentation you can calculate any of these 
quantities. 
 
I'm not sure what your "device" is but I doubt it can 
measure IBU's, since these are quite different from 
alcohol and gravity measurements, which it would seem 
is all you can do. 
 
All of those things are just permutations of three 
figures: OG, FG, %EtOH, and you only need to measure 
two of those to figure the third: (OG*-FG*)/7.5=%EtOH (v/v) 
(*measured in "points" i.e. thousandths over 1.000).  I 
would guess a decent hydrometer and a piece of paper for 
record keeping is cheaper than shipping 2 bottles of beer. 
- -- 
Jeremy Bergsman 
mailto:jeremybb at leland.stanford.edu 
http://www-leland.stanford.edu/~jeremybb 

Return to table of contents


From: Steve Alexander <stevea at clv.mcd.mot.com>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 18:20:52 -0400
Subject: Lautering Rye

 
George_De_Piro says ... 
>     I've noticed two people say that they have used substantial quantities 
>     of rye with no lautering problems.  As you have all read, this is NOT 
>     my experience.  I think I may know part of the reason. 
> 
>     My Roggen beer was double decocted.  Contrary to what one might think, 
>     decocted mashes have LESS structure than infusion mashes and are 
>     therefore sometimes more difficult to lauter (they even look "mushier" 
>     than infusion mashes). 
> 
>     Proteins are a large part of what gives a grain it's structural 
>     support (along with cellulose), and decocting does a wonderful job of 
>     breaking them down. 
> 
>     Perhaps decocting is not the way to go when homebrewing a rye beer! 
 
My recent rye beer was 63% malted rye and was also double decocted. 
Altho I agree with your comments regarding the boiled grist mass 
having less structure, but the decoctions seemed to have the effect of 
breaking up the rye's glueyness (ok I just made that word up). 
 
I use a 1/2" copper tube w/ hacksaw slits for lautering and it seems 
virtually unstickable.  In spite that - I was pretty worried looking 
at the consistancy of the first decoction - total glue.  It got 
progressively better with each decoction.  I was able to lauter in 
about 75 minutes, longer than normal but not bad.  I did have rice 
hulls on hand in case of a seriously stuck lauter - but didn't use 
'em.  I suspect many lauter designs would require this. 
 
The rye  sparged a lot better than I had expected, but it is certainly 
a troublesome grain in the lauter tun. 
 
Steve Alexander 

Return to table of contents


From: Hugh Graham <hugh at lamar.ColoState.EDU>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 16:42:42 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Peated Malt, Air Filtration

 
The latest Brewing Techniques mag. has a note discussing 2 grades 
of peated malt that Hugh Baird produces, with figures for the 
varying and different levels of phenol therein.  Apparently, the higher 
phenol grade also has higher variation in its phenol content. 
This obviously could explain the observed discrepancies in recipe 
formulation. 
 
I recently brewed a tasty batch of peat smoked porter and 
a most drinkable peat smoked scottish ale. 
Both used 1 lb of Hugh Baird Peated Malt in 10 gallons and a 'unique 
subtle smokiness' which does not 'overpower the brew' resulted. 
The phenolic nature of this smokiness seems to mellow, blend and fade 
with time. 
I do not know which grade of peated malt my supplier supplied. 
Next time I'll ask. 
 
When designing a recipe to use this phenolic flavor, may I humbly suggest 
including complementary flavors to blend with the phenolics and to produce 
a well balanced beer.  This would be possible even with an 'in your face' 
level of smokiness.  The porter and scottish ale I brewed were both 
moderately hopped to style, with the brown malt in porter and Special B in 
the scottish ale helping to produce well rounded, smooth beers, (IMHO). 
As I recall, both beers used other specialty malts too, but those 
mentioned above seemed to blend with the phenolics rather well.  Base malt 
was Hugh Baird pale ale in both cases (actually 8 cases :-) and I used the 
Wyeast ESB yeast for the porter and the Scottish ale Wyeast for the 
scottish ale. 
 
- ------ 
 
Air Filtration 
 
0.2 micron autoclaveable air filters are available from science supply 
houses. These could be sterilized in the steam phase of a pressure cooker 
along with SS aeration stones and high temp hoses.  Contact with liquids 
can indeed cause these membrane filters to block up temporarily until dry. 
(As I recall, Gelman Acrodisc 50 is one such brand, usual disclaimer). 
 
I note, however, that those of us that aerate by agitation in the carboy 
are not using sterile air and furthermore, those of us (all of us?) who do 
not prefill our fermenters with sterile air before wort addition 
risk contamination from airborne microbes.  Coughing near an open 
fermenter is probably a much higher level of risk, though. 
 
Pumping air through wort results in greater risk of contamination 
than simple agitation because of the greater volume of air involved 
and the greater level of air/liquid interface produced,  which 
is of course the whole point of this process.  So if I were to 
use pumped air aeration on a regular basis, I would prefer to 
use a filter. 
 
Hugh in Ft Collins, CO. 

Return to table of contents


From: Terry White <brew at buffnet.net>
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 18:50:47 -0700
Subject: minikegs

In response to the question regarding minikegs, I own a home brew supply 
store and I try to discourage my customers when they ask about the mini 
kegs. You are much better off with a full corny keg setup, it cost a 
little more initially but is a better value.  A complete kegs setup with 
a reconditioned corny keg runs $175.00, I know this sounds expensive but 
when you consider that it takes 4 mini kegs to hold a 5 gallon batch of 
beer at $6 each, plus another buck apiece for the bungs,between $50 - 60 
for the CO2 tap and your up to around $70 now add the $15 for a box of 
ten CO2 cartridges(you can use 2-3 per mini keg) and after 5 or 6 batches 
of beer you've spent as much as a corny keg setup. And IMO the corny kegs 
are much better than mini kegs, they hold a full five gallons and you 
have your choice of priming or force carbonating. I would recommend 
holding out for the corny kegs, you won't be sorry. 
 
       Terry 

Return to table of contents


From: Geoff Bagley <geoff at gcbagley.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 19:04:59 +0100
Subject: Re: The Un-Believer's Six-Pack

 
Hi there! 
 
I don't think that "good beer" ever goes into a six-pack. Good beer 
doesn't even go into bottles or cans. 
 
Good beer is naturally conditioned in the cask, contains living yeasts, 
and is served at room temperature from a hand-pump (not CO2 pressure). 
 
It is brewed only from grain malt, with no added sugars, and however 
drunk you get, it causes no hang-over. 
 
 
Keep on brewing! 
Geoff Bagley. 
Malvern, Worcs. UK. 

Return to table of contents


From: Dave Broughton - PICCO <dave at picco.com>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 96 16:18:23 PDT
Subject: RE: "Tapping" a fridge

I just used a hole saw to drill holes in my fridge, it cuts through the 
metal fiberglass and plastic in about 10 seconds.  I found that Sears 
has about the best selection of sizes. 
 
dlb 
 
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+ 
| David Broughton                            (206)927-6910 x30    | 
| Puyallup Integrated Circuit Company        (206)927-6673 Fax    | 
| 33838 Pacific Hwy S., Suite 211            dave at picco.com       | 
| Federal Way, WA 98003                      http://www.picco.com | 
+-----------------------------------------------------------------+ 

Return to table of contents


From: rlabor at lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald)
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 23:14:28 -0500
Subject: 6 pack

>From: KennyEddy at aol.com 
>Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 13:18:48 -0400 
>Subject: The Un-Believer's Six-Pack 
> 
>If you had to assemble a six-pack of beer to give to a "beer is beer" type 
>person, which six would it be? 
 
I'll try. 
 
        1)First I would suggest a wheat beer, Spaten Franziskaner Hefe-Weizen 
        2)Surely a Guinness Extra Stout 
 
        3)Pilsener Urquell, the quintessential Pilsener. 
 
        4)Sierra Nevada Pale Ale - yum 
 
        5)Fischer Amber Ale - just to show that you can even sell piss. 
 
        6)Last and least, a Bud Lite, to turn on the lights. 
 
Ron 
 

Return to table of contents


From: beerdogs at cyclops.dcache.net (beerdogs)
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1996 00:30:10 -0500
Subject: sixpack conversions

ken schwartz writes 
[[[If you had to assemble a six-pack of beer to give to a "beer is beer" type 
person, which six would it be?]]] 
 
i live in an beer wasteland and work at the local brewery so i think about 
such a scenario all the time.  if i had only one six pack to give, i would 
give a six pack of great lakes pale ale.  i had no interest in beer styles 
until i had that beer and from what i have heard, many share the same 
experience.  its seems that, as ironic as it may be, the first thing a beer 
drinker grabs onto is a big hop.  malt is great and yeast tricks are 
wonderful too, however, for conversion of the average beer drinker, hops 
are usually the key and are what GL's Burning River Pale Ale has in spades 
(no i am not affiliated with the brewery). 
 
you ask, you got it, 
  that's just my opinion. 
 
cheers, 
Sara&Rod 
 
***blessed is the woman who gives birth to a brewer*** 
                -inscription outside of Pilsner Urquel, Czechoslovokia 
 
 

Return to table of contents


From: steg at postoffice.ptd.net
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 00:53:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: unsubsribe steg at prolog.net

unsubsribe steg at prolog.net 
 

Return to table of contents


From: John Bell <paradise at compcom.com.au>
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 18:02:08 +1000
Subject: aeration, & "choreboys"

Hi to all. Some queries re the current threads on aeration and malts etc 
 
1       Re aerating and the concern about sanitising airstones: I understand 
that wort coming out of the boil will have minimal dissolved O2 and the 
necessity for yeast to have adequate available O2 at the generation stage. 
However, how much is enough? Does all this aeration of the wort have any 
downside in oxidation and degradation of flavour compounds? Comparatively, 
after fermentation: What is HSA? Is it worthwhile purging empty bottles with 
CO2 before filling and  gassing bottle headspace after filling  as 
winemakers do to minimise oxidation? 
 
2       My latest brew - a pale ale using single step infusion mash, no 
protein rest - is refusing to clarify. Otherwise it seems pretty much to 
form. The only thing new is a new supply of malt. Looking at it, it seems 
suspiciously grey and somewhat dirty looking. Any diagnoses? 
 
3       George de Piro wrote 
     "A friend of mine has found that yeast cultured from Adelaide sparkling 
ale is a good high-temperature performer.  In fact, he's had trouble with it 
getting stuck at more conventional temperatures!" My experience too, in fact 
in their HB kits they used to warn to keep fermentation temp at about 25 C 
(? 77 F)! Last time I drank this (excellent) beer I was struck by the very 
estery character at room temp. 
 
4      Thanks, Dave Burley for recognition of us non Yanqui readers of HBD. 
"Choreboys", "Cornies", "MaltMills" - all very confusing. But lots of praise 
for the level of expertise often evident and general ethos of helpfulness. 
 
Sue Armstrong & John Bell 
Paradise Enough Wines 
KONGWAK, SOUTH GIPPSLAND 
VICTORIA, AUSTRALIA 
 

Return to table of contents


From: Tom Lombardo <favt3tl at rvcux1.RVC.CC.IL.US>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 06:20:05 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: RE: The un-believer's Six-Pack

Ken Schwartz wants to assemble a six-pack to undo the "beer is beer" 
mentality.  Here's my input: 
 
1. Start with a Pilsner Urquell.  Since "budmilloors" claims to be 
   American Pilsner, show them what the original pilsner is like. 
 
2. An IPA, perhaps a Sierra Nevada or Oregon IPA as an example of a light, 
   hoppy ale. 
 
3. A stout, Guinness of course, to demonstrate a dark, malty style. 
 
4. An Octoberfest.   Medium body, very malty, lightly hopped.  I sampled 
   a few after my question last week, and I vote for Paulaner. 
 
5. A Weizen, as an example of a cloudy, yeasty style.  (I'm not fond of 
   weizens, so I'll leave the brand decision to you.) 
 
6. A fruit beer.  Again, not a style I like much, so I won't recommend a 
   brand. 
 
If anyone samples each of the above and still says "beer is beer", then 
their taste buds are dead! 
 
Good question Ken!  I'll bet we'll see some interesting responses. 
 
Tom in Rockford IL 
 
************************************************ 
American beer is like making love in a boat... 
They're both fucking close to water! 
                     Monty Python 
 
Tom Lombardo (favt3tl at rvcux1.RVC.CC.IL.US) 
************************************************ 
 
 

Return to table of contents


From: "Robert Petersen" <StoneRidgeFarm at msn.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 96 02:22:12 UT
Subject: Subject: The Un-Believer's Six-Pack

I'd be very careful on this one.  Even  6 ounces can be too much.  I've had 
non-brewers over on several occasions at which I've "gone for the home run" by 
putting out my favorite "very bitter", or my pride and joy "raspberry wheat" 
or our first pumpkin ale. 
 
Some were polite, but often, they just weren't ready for the plunge.  I've had 
better feedback on a run-of-the-mill blueberry wheat kit that has only the 
barest hint of fruit.  At my favorite local brewry (Mill City Brewhouse, 
Lowell MA), they offer a sampler of 8 small glasses of a wide variety of 
types; actually Martha's Exchange in Nashua NH does this too.  This makes 
sense I think, because they don't have to put down 12 ounces of something they 
don't like, they get a much greater variety, and don't wind up pouring it down 
the potted plants. 
 
A recent beer-tasting class my beer club attended used the same approach. 
 
- ------- Wine is for Peasants --------- 
StoneRidgeFarm 

Return to table of contents


From: TPuskar at aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 09:49:50 -0400
Subject: Beer is Beer six pack

Ken Schwartz asked for recommendations for a Beer is Beer sampler 6 pack for 
those folks who don't realize that beer comes in styles other than those the 
megas produce.  I'll take a stab at this collection.  I recommend the 
following: (actual brand is less importnat than the mixture of styles) 
 
IPA--the hoppier the better 
Amber ale 
Pilsner (German style) 
Weisen 
Bock 
Cream or oatmeal Stout 
 
Its a tough choice of what to include, but those above will certainly span 
the range of styles.  Also considered were: Marzen, Raspberry wheat, Porter 
and Brown ale. 
 
I wish someone would send me a six pack of these--and I've made them all so 
far! 
 
I'll be looking for others comments. 
Tom Puskar 

Return to table of contents


From: "Robert Petersen" <StoneRidgeFarm at msn.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 96 13:53:20 UT
Subject: hops and dogs

From: bob rogers <bob at carol.net> 
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 23:07:20 -0400 
Subject: hops and dogs 
 
i know spent hops are very dangerous for dogs. 
 
does anybody _know_ if growing hops are bad for dogs? 
 
and/or 
 
would dogs even eat them? 
 
i want to know, because i have some rizomes in the fridge i want to plant on 
the back fence, but i would much rather throw them away if max might get 
sick or die. 
 
bob- brewing in the heart of the bible belt. 
bob rogers   bob at carol.net 
 
We have 3 Newfies, one a puppy.  I have 2 large hop hills, one right in the 
middle of their territory.  Spouse and I are very concerned and have been 
watching carefully, especially since Phoebe (the bitch) dug up my asparagus 
roots (look a lot like rhizomes don't they?) 2 years ago.  So far, no 
interest. 
 
My guess is that spent hops have the grain flavor, sometimes suggary/malt that 
freshhops don't have.  Our dogs love the horse grain and will steal it if they 
can.  So far, they have made no attempt to steal hops off the vine. 
 
I'd welcome the experience of others. 
 
StoneRidgeFarm at msn.com 
- ----- Wine is for Peasants ----- 

Return to table of contents


From: Kirk R Fleming <flemingk at usa.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 10:06:50 -0600
Subject: False Bottom Selection

In #2214 Tom Neary (thomas.neary at peri.com) asked about full-diameter vs = 
9" diameter false bottoms for converted keg mash tuns.  Although = 
kbjohns at escape.com (Ken ) from PBS responded in #2216 about improved = 
efficiency with the larger ones, I haven't compared extraction myself. 
 
Extraction rates aside, the diameter that's "best" depends a bit on how = 
you're heating the mash tun.  If you're using an external heating = 
chamber then I see no advantage (again, other than efficiency) to the = 
full diameter units.  If you're using direct fire, there is some = 
advantage to more liquid under the false bottom, and to not having a = 
thick mash in direct contact with the heated surface. 
 
Having made these wild assertions, and having read the comments = 
regarding enzyme dilution and concern over excess liquor under the false = 
bottoms, I found that a bottom plate 14 3/4" in dia has the following = 
advantages: 
 
a) the vast majority of the heated keg surface is covered with liquid 
b) only about 3 quarts of liquid is under the false bottom 
c) the upper section of the keg can be fairly easily slotted to = 
accomodate the 
one-piece false bottom plate 
 
If you get a 15" dia plate, these alleged advantages should still hold.  = 
If you don't want to stir your mash while heating with direct fire, then = 
I'd recommend against a 9" dia. plate. 
 
 

Return to table of contents


From: Kurt Schilling <kurt at pop.iquest.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 96 11:20 EST
Subject: Beer for the Un-Believers

Howdy Beirvolk: 
 
In HBD 2216, Ken Schwartz tossed out a thread on beer for the un-believers. 
OK, I'll bite. 
 
I'd make up a six pack of the following brews: Fullers ESB, Celis Wit, 
Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, Pauliner Oktoberfest, Warsteiner Lager, and Guinness 
Pub Draught (so what if it's in a can?).  I think that these (IMHO) are all 
good examples of beer as it should be, all different and all quality. YMMV, 
of course. 
 
Cheers! 
Kurt Schilling   e-mail: kurt at iquest.net 
Kurt 
 

Return to table of contents


From: Annetmark at aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 14:35:20 -0400
Subject: Harvest Festival English Ale

Friends - 
 
My wife and I just returned from a two week vacation to France, with a 3 day 
stop in London on the way home. I know, I know - its a tough job but 
somebody had to do it. The beer situation in France is limited - they do have 
a few decent commercial lagers- Kronenbourg, Fischer, Kanterbrau Gold, 1664, 
etc. - but nothing to get excited about. I guess we can cut them a little 
slack though, because they sure know how to make good wine! The situation in 
England was very different. Those folks are seriously into beer. 
 
Unfortunately, I was just there for a few days. Not nearly long enough, but I 
managed to find an outstanding British brewpub. I lucked out by seeing an 
article in the Financial Times, of all places. It basically dealt with the 
fact that there is a major move towards consolidation in the brewing 
industry. There are only four major national brewers (with 82% of the market) 
and this may decline to three as Bass is trying to take over 
Carlsberg-Tetley. As a side note in the article, they briefly mentioned a 
recent, annual real ale competition. The winner was called Harvest Festival 
from the Orange Brewery in Pimlico. 
 
Well, I determined that Pimlico was not far from where we were staying and 
decided that the Orange Brewery was definitely going to be our lunch stop 
during a day of typical tourist sightseeing.  Harvest Festival turned out to 
be a superb Bitter. Interestingly enough, it was not a traditional English 
Bitter because it was strongly hopped with Cascades (one of my favorite 
hops), which would be more typical of an American Pale Ale. Apparently, the 
English liked Cascades enough to make Harvest Festival this years winner. 
After a great lunch on a chicken & mushroom pot pie with lots of Harvest 
Festival and a sampling of  their Pimlico Road Porter (also quite good), we 
took a tour of the brewery. Unfortunately the brewer, John Horne, was not 
there but one of bartenders gave us a great tour. The Harvest Festival ale 
was brewed from the same recipe as their standard Bitter, called SW1, except 
that it used Cascade hops in place of the Kent Goldings they usually used. 
 
During the tour the bartender and I discussed the article in the Times, and 
the general beer situation in England. A vast majority of the pubs had been 
bought up by the major brewing companies. These companies usually restricted 
the beers being sold to their own brands. There were very few Free Houses, 
pubs that would buy their beers from various different distributors or 
companies. Well, there has recently been a trend for the company owned pubs 
to call themselves Free Houses, to get the benefit of the increased public 
awareness of good beer that has been growing with the CAMRA movement. 
Unfortunately, many people interested in traditional English ale feel that 
the consolidation in the brewing market is a threat to good quality beer. 
Much like the situation here in the US, the drive for market share means that 
the brewers produce safe, less challenging beers for the lowest common 
denominator of public taste. 
 
While in London, I also managed to down a pint of Theakstons Best Bitter in 
the Museum Pub, across the street from the British Museum. Apparently Karl 
Marx wrote a major part of Das Kapital in that pub, at a table by the front 
window. I wonder what his favorite pint was - perhaps a Red Ale? Well, any 
way we had a great time, and I could keep rambling on about it for a lot 
longer but Ive got an Altbier that is ready for bottling, its been sitting 
in the secondary since we left on vacation,   so Ill talk to you all later. 
 
Oh, with all the above waste of bandwidth, I almost forgot to ask my 
question. In France, we visited my wifes aunt, and in her basement I found 
some interesting old swing-top bottles. I brought some back, but need to 
replace the rubber gaskets. They are much larger than the typical Grolsch 
type. The gasket is about 1 3/8 inches in diameter. Does anyone know where I 
could locate some of these? TIA. 
 
Mark Tumarkin 
The Brewery in the Jungle 
Miami, FL 
 

Return to table of contents


From: Anton Schoenbacher <aschoenb at eecs.wsu.edu>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 96 11:53:31 PDT
Subject: Ph and partial mash

I am planning to do my first partial mash really soon, 
I got info about my water from the city works people 
(they were really happy that somebody wanted to know 
about the water).  The Ph of my water is 7.1, do I have 
to add something to bring it down, if so what ? 
or 
Do i just need to change the amount of time I mash ? 
 
Thanks, alot 
- -- 
*****Anton Schoenbacher*****aschoenb at eecs.wsu.edu***** 
****************************************************** 

Return to table of contents


From: "Sutton, Bob" <"bob.sutton" at fluordaniel.com>
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 16:11:00 -0700
Subject: Aeration filter sanitation

 
Nicholas Dahl writes: 
 
>>>When I bought my 0.22 micron inline air 
filter from Heartland Hydroponics, the person 
I talked to on the phone said absolutely do 
NOT run water through the filter, because 
liquids were too big to pass through the 
hydrophobic membrane.  My question is, given 
the admonition I recently received, how does 
one sanitize the inline filter<<< 
 
Good question... 
Without knowing the membrane material your 
filter is constructed of, I can offer a few 
suggestions. 
 
If you can afford to use disposable filters, 
find a supplier who offers sterile packaging 
(this is quite common as the filters can 
readily be gamma irradiated). If you plan to 
reuse your filters then sanitizing is 
recommended. 
 
If you are reusing hydrophobic filter media, 
you can insert the filter in a pressure 
cooker/steamer, and expose it to boiling 
vapors for 30 minutes. Allow it to fully cool 
before using. 
 
Often hydrophobic filters may be "wetted" out 
with 70% isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol). 
After a 30-60 minute soak, the filter must be 
thoroughly dried by pumping air through it. 
All the usual disclaimers (safety goggles, 
good ventilation, respirator, etc.). This 
would NOT be my first choice. 
 
If you can obtain hydrophilic filter media, 
soak the filter in iodophor solutions in the 
concentration recommended to sanitize your 
brewing hardware. 
 
Bob 
Fruit Fly Brewhaus 
Yesterdays' Technology Today 
 

Return to table of contents


From: DownAPint at aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 18:46:38 -0400
Subject: dry hopping

Hombrew Collective, 
 
I just dry hopped my first batch. I put the pellet hopps in the secondary 
last night. This morning when I went to check on the brew, a question occured 
to me. Is all this stuff going to settle out in the next week (in time to 
bottle)? If not will I need to rack it again so to avoid getting pelletized 
hopps in my kegs? Thanks in advance. 
 
Brent Smith 
Raleigh, North Carolina 

Return to table of contents


From: habanero at juno.com (Raymond P Kasprowicz)
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 15:42:24 PST
Subject: Looking for Youngs Oatmeal Stout Recipe

I am interested in trying to home brew Youngs Oatmeal Stout. If anyone 
has a recipe for it, or something reasonably close please reply to 
Habanero at juno.com.  I am also interested in other Oatmeal Stouts recipes. 

Return to table of contents


From: Steve <srockey at egyptian.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 20:04:43 -0500
Subject: Making a Mead Starter

Mead makers, (and anyone else with knowledge of mead) 
 
 I have purchased honey and the ingredients to make my first batch of = 
mead.  I have the Wyeast #3184 Sweet Mead yeast.  On the package it = 
says,=20 
 
 "To make a starter, boil a pint of juice for 15 minutes and cool." =20 
 
 What kind of juice do I use?  How can I be sure the juice will not have = 
some preservative which will kill the yeast?  I plan to make my mead = 
next weekend, so any and all advice will be appreciated. 
 
 Thanks, 
 Steve Rockey 
 srockey at egyptian.net 

Return to table of contents


From: Kathy Booth <kbooth at waverly.k12.mi.us>
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1996 10:43:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: sanitation

I posted these a week or so but didn't get answers as stated. 
 
1)  Would using 1 gal of the clorine version of bleach at 1t/gal water in 
a 5 or 7 gal carbouy, then swirling to wet all the surfaces every few 
minutes be equivelent to filling and letting the carbouy stand full? 
Opinions...facts....I understand Public health people advise 1t/gal in 
dish/silverware rinse water. Full carbouys take time, heavy lifting, 
uses water and chlorine and if it serves no real purpose.... 
2) Turning up the 
home hot water heator to max gives me hot water at the tap at 152F.  Does 
water standing/flowing in the hot water delivery system and arriving at 
152F have the relevent bugs killed so this water can be used for rinsing 
items treated with bleach solutions as in question 1? 
   Thanks jim booth lansing, mi 
 
 

Return to table of contents