Homebrew Digest Sunday, 3 November 1996 Number 2260
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FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Mike Donald, Digest Janitor-in-training
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
carmelising sugar (smurman at best.com)
No Bubbles (Agnor Craig)
[none] ()
[none] ()
Carbonator-sanitizer accesry, Chempro SDP, Chimay yeast duality ("David R. Burley")
Re: A-B Ales?, Calculating the strike liquor temperature and volume ("David R. Burley")
Left hand Rule(s) ("David R. Burley")
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plastic pickle buckets (Edward J. Steinkamp)
[none] ()
[none] ()
Airlock bubbles/foam! (William Slusser)
[none] ()
mashout rest overnight? (Rick Dante)
Brewpot/Fermenter Size (Michael Brytowski)
St. Louis Brews Happy Holidays Homebrew Competition (Sullivan51 at aol.com)
RE: competition announcement / CORRECTION (Robert Paolino)
Trub (Glenn & Kristina Matthies)
Grain Mill Static Cling! ((Alison R. Hall))
DME/LME (Was: Re: zima wife) (Derek Lyons)
MHBTG November Classic ((Bruce Garner))
Newbie to the list and one question (Robert Sutton)
recap: chiller sanitation (The Holders)
Re: Brewer's Tragedy ((BRIAN WURST))
Leakie cornies/Web sites (Barrowman at aol.com)
1996 Capitol District Open Results (Fred Hardy)
Re: Single vessel full mash ((David Hill))
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: smurman at best.com
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 1996 12:23:40 -0800
Subject: carmelising sugar
I'm getting ready to brew a Belgian abbey-like beer in my ongoing
quest to brew every beer I've ever liked. I read the article in a
past HBD on carmelising sugar, and I also tried a small scale batch.
The article mentions carmelising will occur at temps higher than 180F.
Do most people just boil the stuff? The article also mentions you
shouldn't stir it for some reason. Is this guff? How do you keep it
from not scorching w/o stirring it? Finally, are there any secrets
for getting a deep amber color? Is it just longer boil times? I
couldn't seem to get much of a color change. I used table sugar
dissolved in 1/3 it's weight in water. I'm planning on carmelising
the sugar the night before, and then simply reheating it in the
microblaster when it's time to add it to the boil.
SM
Return to table of contents
From: Agnor Craig <Craig.Agnor at Colorado.EDU>
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 13:57:12 -0700 (MST)
Subject: No Bubbles
Hi folks,
I've got a porblem with my latest batch of brew. It's got no carbonation.
I'd appreciate any help that anyone can offer.
It a standard american pale ale
6lbs M&F malt extract
4 oz toasted 2-row
3 oz 40 L crystal
1.5 oz Cascade pellets 4.7% (60 min)
.25 oz Cascade pellets (10 min)
.25 oz willamette pellets 4.3% (10min)
.25 oz cascade pellets (2 min)
.25 oz willamette pellets (2 min)
2 oz cascade pellets (dry hopped)
Wyeast 1056
This batch had SG 1.045 and was aerated for 35 minutes before the yeast
was pitched (from a 22 oz starter). Fermentation was visible after about
5 hours. One week later the beer was racked to the secondary (F.G. 1.007)
and .5 Tbsp. polyclar was added to remove the chill haze and the dry hops
were added two days later. The beer was bottled two weeks later
with 3/4 c. corn sugar. I should note that the secondary had almost no
sediment with the exception of the hops. After about two weeks in the
bottle the beer was still sweet and uncarbonated so I gently turned the
bottles over in the hope of rousing the yeast from the bottom of the
bottles. Here I again noticed that there was little if any yeast visible
at the bottom of the bottles. After four weeks in the bottles still no
carbonation. I don't think that the beer has been exposed to any
temperatures below 65F or any sudden changes in temperature.
Has anyone had any similar experiences? Anyone got any ideas on how to
rescue two cases of otherwise delicious beer?
Private email is preferred. I'll post a summary of responses. TIA
Best Regards,
Craig Agnor
physics graduate student
University of Colorado
agnor at ucsu.colorado.edu
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From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202 at CompuServe.COM>
Date: 01 Nov 96 17:13:35 EST
Subject: Carbonator-sanitizer accesry, Chempro SDP, Chimay yeast duality
Brewsters:
I have always felt there has to be a better way to clean that cobra head beer
dispenser for my Cornies than disassembling it, washing, etc.
I was trying to figure out how to use the Carbonator(R) as a way to hold open
the spring valve on the disconnect while I sprayed water inside. During our
discussion, Julianne Targan of Hop & Vine in Morristown, NJ ( no affiliation,
etc.) had a great idea which is beautiful in its simplicity and makes me say, "
Why didn't I think of that?".
Use the Carbonator on a typical plastic soda bottle. Fill the bottle with
sanitizing solution, screw on the Carbonator, snap the beer line disconnect
onto
the Carbonator, depress the cobra head lever at the other end of the beer line
and squeeze the bottle and the beer and then the sanitizing solution will exit
the port.. I then take a second bottle and rinse with water. Unscrew the
carbonator from the bottle, depress the poppet valve on the carbonator and
allow
the water in the hose to drain out by gravity. Fast and easy.
- -----------------------------------------------------------
I'm looking for an alternative to Iodophor which I seem to be able to taste in
the smallest quantities. Chempro SDP(R) was suggested as an alternative. Any
idea what the composition is? This British packaging has NO composition
information, even in the section on hazardous assistance, except to say
incorrect mixing may cause the generation of chlorine. Is it stable as a
solution and for how long?
- -----------------------------------------------------------
I cultured some yeast from a bottle of Blue label Chimay since I wanted a yeast
that could withstand a high OG and the resultant alcohol. It seemed to be doing
fine in the starter, fermenting nicely and rapidly for 5 days and then abruptly
stopped. I assumed it was finished. I prepared a Strong Belgian Ale wort and
tasted the starter beer before pitching as I always do. It tasted fine but was
still a little sweet and reminded me of Buckley Brothers' yeast I obtained from
a brewery in Wales when I lived there. The sweetness concerned me because I was
pitching it into an OG of 1.072, but I pitched anyway. Fermentation started
within 24 hours at 70F, giving a good mat, but not one I would expect from an
ale yeast. After three days it was obvious it was slowing. I closed the furnace
room door and got the temperature up to 77F. Whether or not this was the
cause, a dense bright white foam about 1/2 inch in thickness appeared within a
few hours on one side of the fermenter and gradually spread across most of the
top of the fermenting wort. The aroma with the first ferment was relatively
odorless, the second is very fruity and luscious smelling. To me this sounds
like two kinds of yeast, maybe the bottom fermenting (?) yeast used for
bottling took off first, then the lower concentration primary fermentation ale
yeast took off. In all the years of brewing I have never seen this. I can't
understand why the bottling yeast ( if that's what it was and not a wild yeast)
couldn't tolerate a high alcohol concentration which is what its used for.
Anyone else with experience or comments? Does Chimay use two kinds of yeast,
one
for fermentation and one for bottling? Is their primary yeast made up of more
than one yeast with vastly different habits? AlK, I think I remember you saying
you toured some Belgian breweries last year. Thoughts?
- --------------------------------------------------------------
Keep on brewin'
Dave Burley
Kinnelon, NJ 07405
103164.3202 at compuserve.com
Return to table of contents
From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202 at CompuServe.COM>
Date: 01 Nov 96 17:13:41 EST
Subject: Re: A-B Ales?, Calculating the strike liquor temperature and volume
Brewsters:
> From: Anton Schoenbacher <aschoenb at eecs.wsu.edu>
> Why four they make lagers and not Ales at A-B ?
Well, mein freund its all those Germans who migrated to St. Louis and other
parts of the midwest just in time for the lager revolution. Prior to that all
US
beers were ales and I believe dark ones at that. George Washington was a Porter
fan if I recollect correctly.
- --------------------------------------------------
John Wilkinson and Barry Vanhoff are discussing the amount and temperature of
water to add to get to a certain strike temperature. Here's an edited version
of something I sent via private mail in another discussion.
The first portion ( which contains the reasoning behind the calculations) deals
with a "goods" mash or premash which contains adjuncts, some malt and water and
is sometimes boiled. To this goods mash is added water and the remaining grist.
The second portion deals with a typical single infusion mash which you are
discussing. Corrections are also dealt with for those using coolers as mashing
tuns.
So here goes:
I usually calculate the temperature and volume of the strike water because I do
so many different things before I strike depending on the batch makeup. So,
rules of thumb seldom work for me. For example, I use adjuncts which are not
always easy to sparge, so I do a goods mash first. Depending on the temperature
and composition of the goods mash will determine the temperature and quantity
of
strike water.
For example, the specific heat of most adjuncts and malt is 0.4 which means
that
10 lbs of malt acts like 4 pounds of water as far as heat goes. So, if there
are 8.6 pounds of water per gallon, then 10 # of malt is equal to 4/8.6 or
0.465
gallons of water.
If you have say one gallon of water and three pounds of malt in a goods mash at
200 F then this is equivalent to 1.12 gallons of water at 200F. (3 X 0.4) =
0.12 gallon equivalents from the malt plus a gallon of real water = 1.12
As an example, if you want this mixture of goods mash plus malt plus strike
water to be say 150 F after you add the remaining 7 # of malt and strike water
at 70F
Question is how much water at 70 F do you need to add to get it there?
Since the goods will drop by 50 F ( 200 F to 150F) it will give up 1.12 X 50 =
56 heat equivalents and the water and malt we add will increase in temperature
by (150-70) degrees = 80 F.**Since the heat given up by the goods mash must
equal the heat taken up by the added water plus malt**, we get: 56/80 = 0.7
gallons of 70 F water equivalents ( i.e. water plus the malt). Remember the 7
pounds of malt will be equal to 7 X 0.4 = 2.8 pounds of water or 2.8 / 8.6 =
0.32 gallons. SO 0.7 - 0.32 = 0.38 gallons of water at 70F to add.
I would then take the goods mash at 200F, add the 0.38 gallons of 70F water and
stir in my 7 pounds of malt. The strike temperature will be 150F. If this
grist/liquor ratio isn't correct, see below how to calculate the amount of
water
at temperature T to get the correct ratio.
To do the thing you want to do in a single infusion mash, it is even easier. If
you have, say 10 pounds of malt at 70F, how much water at what temperature do
you need to add to get to a mash of say 1.3 qts/lb mash thickness?
1.3 qts/lb X 10 lbs = 13 qts ( 3.25 gallons) of water at some temperature T
will be used to heat up 10 # of malt (4 lbs equivalent to water = 4/8.6 = 0.46
gallon equivalents.) Now, 3.25 (T- 150) = 0.46 (150 -70) thus T =
( 36.8 + 487)/3.25 = 523.8/3.25 = 161 degrees. So add 13 qts of 161F water to
the malt and the strike temperature will be 150F
If your mash was only 1 qt / lb then 10 qts/4 = 2.5 gallons so: 2.5(T-150) =
0.46(150 - 70) and T =(37 + 375)/2.5 = 165 F. Which is about 15 degrees above
mash T. So your rule of thumb of 15 degrees for a 1 qt/lb mash is obviously
good
and works for you. In all this you have to take into account the water
equivalents of the mash tun if you can't heat it up directly. I don't have to
worry about the heat equivalent of my mash tun, I just heat from within a few
degrees to the desired temperature.
Incidentally, if you want to calculate the heat equivalent of your mash tun,
here's how you do it. If you wanted 150F for a composition of 2.5 gallons of
water and 10# of mash and you got say 145F, then 2.9 plus mashtun gallon
equivalents at 145 is what you have and you calculated 2.9 gallons at 150F.
You actually have (2.9 + X) 145 = 2.9 X 150 = 5 X 2.9/145 = 0.1 gallon
equivalents for your mash tun Use this number as though you were adding it to
your grist in your calculations. Thus instead of 0.46 gallon equivalents of
malt
you would use 0.56.
If you have a mash tun you can heat directly, don't bother to correct for the
heat capacity of the tun, just add the calculated amount and it will give you a
strike temperature a few degrees below the desired temp. Heat to the desired
strike temp.
Looks complicated, but it isn't after you do it a few times.
- ---------------------------------------------------------------
Keep on brewin'
Dave Burley
Kinnelon, NJ 07405
103164.3202 at compuserve.com
Return to table of contents
From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202 at CompuServe.COM>
Date: 01 Nov 96 17:13:47 EST
Subject: Left hand Rule(s)
From: David R. Burley, 103164,3202
TO: Homebrew Digest REQUESTS, INTERNET:homebrew-digest-request@ aob.org
DATE: 11/1/96 8:25 AM
RE: Copy of: Homebrew Digest #2257 (Thursday, 31 October 1996)
Brewsters:
Charley likes the idea of recirculating his wort through hot water but asks
about my detailled instructions for coil construction and implementation:
> Why recirculate counter clockwise? What the heck does the direction of
> flow matter when all we're doing is transferring heat? I understand the
> need to enter at the bottom, makes a lot of sense. BTW, if we live south
> of the equator, are you recommending we do it clockwise;-)?
>
> Charley
Actually it isn't the Coriolis force that is important in this case, since you
are adding heat to your wort rather than removing heat from your wort. In this
case it involves magneto-rotation based on a rule derived from a special case
of
the Beer-Lambert law applied to rotatrons in hyperspace for liquids with an SG
>
1.070 and that's the reason for the left hand rule.
- --------------------------------------------------------------------
Keep on brewin'
Dave Burley
Kinnelon, NJ 07405
103164.3202 at compuserve.com
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From: Edward J. Steinkamp <ejs0742 at dop.fse.ca.boeing.com>
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 1996 11:54:39 PST
Subject: plastic pickle buckets
I have 5 or so plastic pickle buckets which smell of well,
pickles. I filled them with a bleach solution, and let them sit
for a week, but they still smell. I used iodine, but still
no luck. I bet if I put beer in them, that would take the smell
out, but I'd have pickle beer. Has anyone brewed a pickle beer?
Sounds kind of sick. What should I use to clean these things?
I have some lye, but I don't know how that reacts with plastic.
My gut feel is that it would be fine.
Private e-mail fine,
Thanks,
Ed Steinkamp
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From: William Slusser <WSlusser at parkland.cc.il.us>
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 1996 00:58:50 -0600
Subject: Airlock bubbles/foam!
4lb Irish stout extract
3.3 lb dark extract
1lb oatmeal partial mash
5.5 gal water
Irish ale wyeast, 8oz starter 040.
Why did foam bubble out of my airlock for about 24hours. I freaked/over
reacted and blamed it on the gods! This is only my 4th batch of beer
and first partial mash.
I thought I simply over filled the plastic 6gal primary fermenter, so I put
1gal in a 1gal glass jug w/airlock and replaced the airlock on the 6gal
fermenter. Everything was normal for about 1 hour then more foam. It
pushed the water out of the airlock every time. I replaced the airlock 3
times and did everything I could to keep outside foam/wort from getting
back in when I changed the airlock. The airlock on the 1gal jug had foam
and I was forced to clean it once. Things did settle down after the
24hours or so to a normal active ferment.
It has been 8 days and primary fermentation is over. I will bottle half
and put the other half in a 2.8 gal carboy. I tasted it and it seems fine at
this point.
Why did this happen? Was it the oatmeal? bubble wall density kinda
thing? To much yeast?
Thanks in advance for any input. - Bill
wslusser at parkland.cc.il.us
- ------------------------------
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From: Rick Dante <rdante at pnet.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 23:12:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: mashout rest overnight?
Has anyone ever completed a mash, mashout, and then let the whole mess sit
overnight to sparge in the morning? I'm faced with that now for a dark
lager. I'm hoping it will turn out alright.
Rick Dante
Return to table of contents
From: Michael Brytowski <mjbrytt at minn.net>
Date: Sat, 02 Nov 1996 06:56:01 -0600
Subject: Brewpot/Fermenter Size
This is the 3rd time I have sent this posting into the homebrew digest.
I stll haven't seen it published. What am I doing wrong?
We would like to step up the size of our brewing operations. We
currently brew extract in 5 gal batches. Recently my brew buddy and I
have been making double batches. We use two 4 gal pots on the stove
to 2 6 gal plastic fermenters to 2 5 gal carboys (secondary,
lagering). We would like to make single 10 gal batches with just
single fermenters and secondaries. (fully rehydrate extract) We will
be moving up to a larger burner. (35k btu)
My questions are: How big of brewpot do you need for 10 gal to boil?
Is there a rule of thumb for how much headroom you should have to help
prevent boilover. Also, What size of fermenter do you use? Again,
how much headroom do you need to allow for fermentation? Are there
10/15 gal carboys, glass jugs out there? What about Plastic sizes?
What are people doing now? Splitting the 10 gal wort into multiple
fermenters/carboys?
And I quick question about bottling. Has anybody bottled 10 gal at
one time? Did you feel you got a good mix with the priming suger?
How did you beer carbonate?
Thanks
MIke
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Michael J Brytowski, Senior Systems Coordinator -
Mid-Continent Area Power Pool (MAPP)
mj.brytowski at mapp.org, mjbrytt at minn.net
"..place some cute quote here.."
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From: Sullivan51 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 1996 08:12:53 -0500
Subject: St. Louis Brews Happy Holidays Homebrew Competition
*** Competition Announcement and Call for Judges ***
1996 Happy Holidays Homebrew Competition
St. Louis Brews Homebrew Club
St. Louis, Missouri
The St. Louis Brews are pleased to announce that our 1996 Happy Holidays
Homebrew Competition will be held on Saturday, December 7.
Our competition has been growing over the years. Last year we had close to
300 entries. Following our competition is our awards dinner featuring some of
the best beer and food that can be found at a homebrew gathering. Not only
do we brew our own beer, but we do our own cooking. After the dinner, we
will retire to Growler's Pub which is just a hop and a skip from the dinner
site. Growler's features a selection of over 130 beers.
If you are competing for Midwest Homebrewer of the Year honors, our
competition closes out the 1996 race. If you think you have a chance to
win, enter a lot of beers. Tom Fitzpatrick and Al Korzonas alone accounted
for more than 150 of our entries last year. Well, actually it was somewhat
less than that but these guys were both on a mission! You too can take part.
We are trying some new approaches this year, one of which is electronic
registration for competition entries and judges. Electronic entry forms,
general competition information and maps are available at:
http://www.biostat.wustl.edu/~jack/hhhc96
Registering your entries electonically provides an advantage for competitors
because:
Registering electronically gets you a price break ($4 per entry instead of
$5)
Registering electronically is easier than manually filling out entry forms
The entry deadline for the competition is November 30th. If you will be
attending our
competition, you are welcome to bring your entries with you, but you must be
registered via the electronic entry form (or manually via the mail) by
November 30. There will be no exceptions. Just remember, if we have your
paperwork, electronically or otherwise, you are entered.
We are also accepting judge registration electonically. While the obvious
advantage to our club is that we have enough judges, there is an advantage
for you also. Registering electronically allows us to ensure that you have
overnight accomodations (Beds for Judges..not the Ritz-Carlton) and that we
have a spot for you at our Awards Banquet which follows the competition.
All entrants and judges are invited and encouraged to attend our competition
and festivities. As mentioned earlier, all the information you need is
available on the website listed above. If anyone has questions or would like
a complete announcement E-Mailed directly to them, please respond to my
E-Mail address.
Thanks and Good Brewing to You All!
Return to table of contents
From: Robert Paolino <rpaolino at execpc.com>
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 1996 11:42:39 -0600 (CST)
Subject: RE: competition announcement / CORRECTION
A sharp-eyed homebrewer in the cornfields of Illinois brought an error to
my attention. The _heading_ of the competition announcement for the
Madison Homebrewers' November Classic incorrectly stated that the
competition is the Eleventh Annual Big and Huge. My error. Big and Huge
XI is in May 1997. The upcoming competition is the Eleventh Annual
_November Classic_. The information in the body of the announcement is
correct, but the error in the heading may have caused some confusion.
Sorry. Send us your entries, come judge, do beer!
Now go have a beer,
Bob Paolino rpaolino at earth.execpc.com
Madison
Have a beer today... for your palate and for good health
Vice President, Madison Homebrewers and Tastes Guild
For information, write to us at mhtg at stdorg.wisc.edu
Return to table of contents
From: Glenn & Kristina Matthies <borst at localnet.com>
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 1996 14:01:14 -0500
Subject: Trub
I know this is an unusual question but I will ask anyway.
While I was racking my latest batch of beer, my wife noticed the trub in the
bottom of the carboy. She asked what it was. I replied "yeast and
protein." She asked if there were any good uses for this stuff. Her
reasoning is that women spend large sums of money for mud face packs and
hair conditioners and the like. Since it looks and smells rather disgusting
(to a non-brewer), she thought may have some cosmetic benefits. Does anyone
know if it is good for skin and/or hair? Is my wife totally nuts
{rhetorical question}? She does however drink stout so suppose I can't get
rid of her :)
TIA, standard disclaimers apply, close cover before striking, yadda, yadda....
Glenn
Glenn & Kristina Matthies
Lockport, NY
borst at localnet.com
Glenn's Buffalo Beer Page
http://www.localnet.com/~borst/index.html
Return to table of contents
From: denisb at CAM.ORG (Alison R. Hall)
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 1996 18:16:21 -0500
Subject: Grain Mill Static Cling!
I've sent this message before, and got a comfirmation from HBD that
it was in queue, but I never saw it in the Digest. Instead, I saw a long
list of [none] () where my article should have been published . Actually,
I've seen a lot of those [none] ()'s lately what's the deal?
Anyway, here's my post:
I'm using a Phil's Mill without motorised help, just the old
hand crank! I find it creates a lot of static and I end up with husks and
flour clinging to the mill, the handle, the bucket below, the PET bottle
hopper above, the floor, the table, my hands, you get the picture.
Is there anything I can do to reduce this static? Can I spray
something (like Endust) on the mill or can I "ground" it to reduce this
static buildup? It really creates more of mess than it should. I'm using it
in a store and each time a customer buys grain, I find myself spending 5
minutes cleaning up after the grind.
ANY advice would be greatly appreciated. Please help!
Denis Barsalo
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From: Derek Lyons <elde at hurricane.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 1996 15:09:01 -0800 (PST)
Subject: DME/LME (Was: Re: zima wife)
At 12:17 PM 11/1/96 +0200, you wrote:
>
>ObHomebrew: I thought that malt extact and DME were equivalent, just adjust
>the weight by 80% to compensate for the water in the extract. But I see that
>the Christmas Ale recipe calls for Munton&Fison extract and DME. What gives?
>Why not just more of either one?
>
Because, contrary to the all-grain 'elitists'; There *is* a difference
between various extracts. Substituting one for another will change the
characteristics of the brew.
Derek L.
Return to table of contents
From: bpgarner at mailbag.com (Bruce Garner)
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 1996 18:28:45 -0600
Subject: MHBTG November Classic
The 1996 November Classic of the Madison Homebrewers and Tasters Guild
Categories: This Beer That Beer Holiday Ale
The Classic is a non-style competition. For the November Classic
THIS and THAT competition, entries will not be judged based on the
characteristics of a certain beer style, but on aroma, appearance, flavor,
body and overall impressions which result in an enjoyable beer.
The HOLIDAY ALE will be judged by Rich Becker, brewmaster of J.T.
Whitney's. He is looking for an ale that he can brew for the public in
December 1996.
To enter the November Classic
1. Rubber-band a Bottle Form to each of two (2) 10 to 14 ounce
bottles of beer for THIS or THAT entries or one (1) bottle for the HOLIDAY
ALE. One form per bottle. Without additional cost a beer can be entered in
both THIS or THAT and HOLIDAY ALE categories. Three (3) bottles are needed
for such an entry. The competition organizers may switch beers between THIS
and THAT to balance the entries.
2. Using a permanent black marker, obliterate all words or pictures on
the caps. (Relax, Have a Homebrew caps are O.K.). Please use clean,
unmarked bottles - no labels.
3. ALL Bottle Forms should include: brewer's name, address, phone,
beer name, original gravity, category - THIS or THAT or HOLIDAY ALE and
optionally: final gravity and special ingredients / yeast.
4. Include a fee of $4.50 for the first entry and $3.50 for additional
entries. Fees for MHBTG members are $3.50 and $2.50. Make checks out to
Madison Homebrewers and Tasters Guild.
5. Ship your entries or drop off at J.T. Whitney's, 674 S. Whitney
Way, Madison, WI 53711 attention: November Classic. Please time your
entries to arrive no sooner than Saturday November 9th. Entries may arrive
no later than 9:00AM the morning of the competition if they are
pre-registered by Friday the 15th. Exceptions are handled by Bruce Garner
(608)256-4227, bpgarner at mailbag.com. Email registrations are welcomed. The
competion will take place at 10:00AM at J.T. Whitney's. judges and stewards
are needed.
- -
- --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BOTTLE FORM Entry category (Circle one) THIS THAT HOLIDAY ALE
Name: ______________________ Beer Name: ___________________
Address: ______________________ Orig Gravity: _______Final:_______
______________________ Phone: ___________________
______________________ Special
Ingredients / yeast (needed for HOLIDAY ALE):
- -
- --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ------------------------------
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From: Robert Sutton <rsutton at wolfenet.com>
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 1996 19:35:48 -0800
Subject: Newbie to the list and one question
Hello all,
I am a newbie to the list. I just brewed my first batch in three years =
(have had several batches prior).
I am looking into kegging this batch rather than bottling. I am looking =
for good and economical kegging systems that might fit in a standard =
refrigerator. Any opinions?
If this is in an FAQ, then I apologize, can you please direct me to it?
Otherwise, big thanks. Looking forward to exchanging home-brew tips and =
ideas.
Robert
rsutton at wolfenet.com
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From: The Holders <zymie at sprynet.com>
Date: Sat, 02 Nov 1996 20:24:21 -0800
Subject: recap: chiller sanitation
Thanks to everyone who posted, or emailed in response to chiller
sanitation.
Seems like hot/boiling water was the overall choice, with periodic heavy
cleanings. Sanitizing solutions for storage were recommended also.
Great thing about email responses..all signal, no noise.
Wayne Holder
Long Beach CA
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From: brian.wurst at aquila.com (BRIAN WURST)
Date: Sat, 02 Nov 96 19:28:00 -0600
Subject: Re: Brewer's Tragedy
Rob Moline reports of a horrific caustic accident at Boulevard Beers in
Kansas City, MO. I wish them a full and speedy recovery. However, the
incident illustrates a much neglected aspect of brewing - safety.
In the March-April 1996 issue of _The New Brewer_ (pp.62-63) they
printed some results of their For Brewers Only Survey...here's some
relating to safety:
- - - - -
Do you wear safety glasses? 107 Yes / 56 No
Have you been hurt on the job? 81 Yes / 84 No
28 of those responding Yes had burns from wort, water or steam
18 had chemical, caustic or alkaline burns (4 suffered burns to eyes)
- - - - -
These are outrageous numbers! One third doesn't wear eye protection.
Fully one fourth of the total respondents reported burns. Half the
respondents had been hurt on the job. This is a terrible safety record.
I bring this up not to whip those poor folks at Boulevard (because they
now understand about safety beyond any lesson I could give) but to
alert homebrewers to the fact that the same hazards exist for them when
they brew. Not to say that everyone blows scalding caustic thru their
homebrew system, but handling scalding liquids is pretty much in
everyone's repertiore along with hot surfaces. Are those carboys carted
around in cradles, or do you just give them a big hug and haul them here
and there<<shudder>>? How secure are the handles on your brewpot?
I urge everyone to review their safety habits and reduce their risk
where they can. Keep it safe.
Respectfully submitted,
Brian Wurst (brian.wurst at aquila.com) Lombard, Illinois
"Nature has formed you, desire has trained you, fortune has preserved
you for this insanity." - Cicero
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From: Barrowman at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 10:21:01 -0500
Subject: Leakie cornies/Web sites
I posted a request for help a while back regarding my leaking cornie kegs.
The problem was narrowed down to my kegs O-rings .... the one that goes on
the outside of the valve fitting assembly. Rubber bands only provided a
temporary fix so I got after my supplier about this.
The verdict: Pin-lock and ball-lock fitting take different size O-rings! My
supplier did not know this and only stocked ball-lock O-rings.
Homebrew suppliers are a good source of info but they are not always right.
Mine special ordered these pin-lock O-rings but told me I had to take all 100
as no else had those 'weird old kegs'. When I was picking up my order an
employee said he has the same problem. Now guess who will be stocking both
types of O-rings?
While I am taking up space: I want to thank those people who post their
homebrew web pages. These pages are a valuable source of info (they could
answer a lot of stuff posted here) and have links to many other sites. My
favorites are personal web pages not supported by any commercial interests,
just generous homebrewers sharing with others. My favorite is one put
together by Pat Babcock. Does anyone else have a favorite or one of their
own? If you send them to me by private e-mail I will put together a list and
post it here. Please give the complete web address and a description of each.
I would like to keep this an homebrew informational list only. This will
exclude advertisements, brewery sites, catalogs, beer mirror sellers and the
like. Thanks in advance for your help and please give me a month to put this
together.
Thanks,
Laura
barrowman at aol.com
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From: Fred Hardy <fcmbh at access.digex.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 10:27:38 -0500 (EST)
Subject: 1996 Capitol District Open Results
AHA Sanctioned, BJCP Recognized Homebrew Competition
Washington, DC November 2, 1996
Hyatt Regency Washington on Capitol Hill
220 Entries
Best of Show: Rhett Rebold's "Blizzard Bock" Doppelbock
Nir Navot Award for most distant entry: Rhett Rebold - Hawaii
A Barleywine 9 entries
1st Ruby Red Ruin Doug Morris/Chris Ingram
2nd Marlea Barley Raymond Kruse, Jr.
3rd Pay Paul UK Boy Colin O'Connor
B Belgian-style Ales 21 entries
1st Tripel "Shimmy Chimay" Billy Graham
2nd Wit "Wit For Wisdom" David Rinker
3rd Wit "Wit's End" Wendy Aaronson/Bill Ridgely
C Brown Ales 14 entries
1st Am. Brown "Sweet Ga. Brown" Jay Hopkins
2nd Eng. Lt. Mild "Two Milds" Richard Thibeau
3rd Eng. Brown "Overbrook Brown" Gerald Palombi
D Classic English Pale Ale 8 entries
1st Pale In Comparison Craig Pepin
2nd Abiqua Pale Ale Ron Thomas
3rd Vat 94 Pale Ale Mike Westman
E IPA 9 entries
1st No Name Billy Graham
2nd Hoppy IPA Kevin Anderson
3rd Overbrook IPA Gerald Palombi
F American-style Ales 21 entries
1st American Pale Ale "Hoppy Daze" Christina Hopkins
2nd American Pale Ale "Kevin's Special" Billy Graham
3rd American Pale Ale "Optimizer" Paul Verzetti
G British-style Ales 22 entries
1st Best Bitter "Knird" Jay Hopkins
2nd English Ordinary "Real Bitter II" Rhett Rebold
3rd Scottish Export "Pseudo Pscotch Ale" Ted O'Neill
H Strong British Ales 8 entries
1st Scotch Ale "Manky Scots Git II" Robert Clint
2nd Imperial Stout "Cathrine's Imperial Stout" Ray Renner
3rd Eng. Old Ale "Old Ale" Jack Mowbray
I Porter 13 entries
1st "Porter Wagoner" Edward Bielaus
2nd Porter Robert Dawson
3rd Porter Andrew Henckler
J Stout 8 entries
1st Classic Dry Stout Steve Marting
2nd Sweet Stout "Blast Your Head Off Stout" Rex Taylor
3rd Foreign Stout "Andy's Mistake" Cliff Rice
K German-style Mixed 13 entries
1st Doppelbock "Blizzard Bock" Rhett Rebold
2nd Alt "No Alternative Alt" Rex Taylor
3rd Helles Bock "Bob's Bock VI" Robert Moreland
L Continental-style Pilsners 10 entries
1st Bohemian Pilsner "Bocephus Bo" Fred Hardy
2nd Dortmunder Export Scott Bickham
3rd German Pilsner "Pistol Pils" George Fix
M American Mixed Styles 11 entries
1st Cream Ale "Backroom Barrell Reserve" Chuck Silva
2nd American Lager "Stash" Billy Graham
3rd Cream Ale "Whitehaven" Fred Hardy
N Bavarian Weizen 13 entries
1st "Witakker Weizen 1" Chuck Hanning
2nd "Witakker Weizen 2" Chuck Hanning
3rd "Dunkelweizen" Ted O'Neill
O Fruit & Vegetable 13 entries
1st "Flea II" Pepper Beer Craig Pepin
2nd "Mild Cherry Ale" Eng. Mild - Bing Cherries Fred Hardy
3rd "Raspberry Wheat" Weizen - Raspberry Robert
Dawson
P Herb & Spice 16 entries
1st "Little Patuxent Winter Warmer" Mixed Spices Chris Smerz
2nd "No Mas, No Mas" jalepena Cliff Rice
3rd "Chester Springs Saison" Bel. Strong - Saison Dave Houseman
Q Specialty 10 entries
1st "Maple Wheat" Weizen - Dark Maple Syrup Art Drauglis
2nd "Blackberry Pale Ale" Pale Ale - Chambord Frank Munoz
3rd "Ale To The Rauch" Other Smoked Ted O'Neill
Best of Show Judges:
Barry DeLapp
David Houseman
Ray Renner
Ed Wolfe
Special thanks to Kevin Anderson and the staff of the Hyatt
Regency Washington hotel.
The Dulles Regional Brewing Society wishes to thank the entrants,
judges, stewards and organizing committee who made this a
successful homebrew competition.
Ta, Fred Hardy, Organizer
========================================================================
"We must invent the future, else it will : Fred Hardy
happen to us and we will not like it". : Fairfax, Virginia
[Stafford Beer, Platform for Change] : fcmbh at access.digex.net
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From: davidh at melbpc.org.au (David Hill)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 08:23:57 +1100 (EST)
Subject: Re: Single vessel full mash
A brain fart for the group's wise consideration.
If as recent posts suggest a sparge is not essential then
consider a system with a single large vessel with a single
heat source.
Inside that large boiler suspend 1 inch off the bottom a grain
basket, for example a HPDE bucket with holes ddrilled in the bottom.
Obviously a SS bucket with mesh base would be ideal.
Inside that basket fit a central archimedies style pump as described
in my earleir post and reffered to some here as the "Aussie Recirculator"
Process then would be:-
1..add water to boiler and raise to strike temp
2..gently lower empty grain basket while slowly adding and wetting grain
3..start recirculation pump
4..add heat as required and hold for mash time
5..raise to sparge temp
6..turn off recirculation pump
7..elevate basket clear of boiler
8..top up boiler with water to required volume
9..boil
10..open next homebrew
Proposed system would be
.. simple
.. less gear therefore could buy better quality for same budget
.. occupy less space
.. easier to automate the heating process with only one heat point
Your comments??
David H
David Hill :-)>
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