HOMEBREW Digest #2288 Monday, December 16 1996

Digest #2287 Digest #2289
		(formerly Volume 02 : Number 008)

  Lightstruck wort
  Re: Homebrew Digest V2 #6
  Rice In Beer
  no sparge brewing
  two hole stoppers
  Ovaltine in homebrew
  1997 National Bay Area Brewoff
  Re: No Sparge Stuff
  Michael Beck's "Operation Budvar"
  Brewing 10 Gallon Batche With Gott 10 Gallon Cooler
  Re: No Sparge Brewing
  Two copies
  HBD email addresses for post, subscribe, unsubscribe?????
  re: Measuring Volume in Kettle
  CP Bottle Filler Query
  Newbie...should I or shouldn't I?
  Depressed HomeBrewer
  Re: yeast banking question
  Re:  Belgian Abbey brews
  HBD #7
  Re: Chimay, carbonation
  Belguim Abbey Beers
  re: no sparge
  A question for the Metallurgists
  [No Subject Provided By Sender]
  Decoction mashing in coolers
  Wort Oxygenation - Equipment Availability?
  Re: Wort aeration and final gravity

---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 08:49:18 -0500 From: "Kevin Sinn " <skinner at netcore.ca> Subject: Lightstruck wort Good morning fellow brewers! I have a couple of questions: 1. I am well aware of the "dangers" of exposing a fermenting wort to light, and I am particulary careful to avoid this during secondary fermentation, when I cover my carboy with a couple of t-shirts and place it in a dark spot. Should I also be concerned about this during primary fermentation? I've just purchased a glass carboy to do my primaries, and light was not a concern when my primary was plastic. 2. Has anyone ever experienced a high FG when using Bierkeller extracts? I recently brewed a brown ale using a Bierkeller dark extract that started at 1.048 and finished at 1.022. I'm aware of this occurring with Laaglander, but have not heard of other extracts that might do the same. Thanks for your help! Kevin Sinn Windsor, Ontario, Canada Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 08:30:58 -0800 From: Douglas A Moller <damoller at odin.thor.net> Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest V2 #6 Graham Stone <gstone at dtuk.demon.co.uk> > Subject: Yeasty taste Graham, some yeast strains are very stable being used repeatedly(We use ours over 50 generations). Some need to be recultured after less use. One thing that wears a culture out is not cooling the beer down before collecting the yeast slurry even if used directly. This cooling time(2-4 days) helps the yeast build up glycogens(yeast fat) so itcan reproduce properlly the next batch. Also the recomended pitch rate would be app. 250 ml/5 gal unless the gravity starts at over1.050, if you change the pitching rate in differant batches would create differant flavor profiles in each batch. Make a culture of this yeast you like and keep it healthy(see below). I work in a brewpub and brew at home, I believe you could reproduce a commercial beer but you ned to be able to interprete the flavor profil;e and how to produce the same in your brewey. From: Robert DeNeefe <rdeneefe at compassnet.com> Subject: yeast banking question Robert, You can keep yeast healthier if you reculture it every 6 months. Just start a test tube off sterile wort with your yeast(s) you want to keep. During fermentation of this wort take a sample and add to a new fresh slant. I have kept yeast for years this way. as per not mashing specialty malts, without conversion of the dextrins in the caramel, carapils or crystal malt the beer would have a high residule sugar/maltiness, I have noticed that a beer with some of these malts fermented down to lower final gravitys actually has more maltiness because the sweetness from the above malts does not interfere with the flavor of the maltiness(malt flavor and sweetness are not the same or dependent on each other). Sweetness in beer overrides many fine flavors in beer including maltiness and hops. I have found though that yeast charcter(such as esters) become more predominate in a sweeter beer. as per more grain less sparge, As to have to make 3.2% alc/weight at work I have tried the more grain for more maltiness and found it to be inacuratel(I actually have tried it many times). I can maintain consitancy in the brewing process at work very well so I am sure this is accurat, but watever tickles your fancy. Douglas Alan Moller Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 21:52:18 -0800 From: Dan Jeska <djeska at sojourn.com> Subject: Rice In Beer Paul Fierra wrote: >Subject: Wife Ale / Mashing Rice > Here's the recipe I'm >planning to use: > >WIFE ALE >5 lbs American Pale malt >2 lbs Uncle Bens Converted Rice >0.5 oz EKG whole hops (6.6 alpha) (60min) >0.5 oz EKG whole hops (6.6 alpha) ( 5min) >Wyeast American Ale yeast > (recipe for 5 US gallons) >. > >My first question: What do I do with the rice? >Some Ideas I've picked up from back issues of HBD, > (and a few of my own): > a) Just include it uncooked in the mash > b) boil it first, until just tender > c) boil it until it's well overcooked > d) eat it for dinner and put something > else in the beer. >My Second Question: Is Uncle Ben's Converted an > appropriate rice to use? I chose it only > because it's the rice we typically have > around the house. >My last question: Any comments on this recipe > which might improve it would be greatly > appreciated. I have brewed a beer similar to the above recipe called Un-American Light Beer from Papazian's New Complete Joy of Homebrewing. I run medium grain white rice (not the converted kind like Uncle Ben's) through the grain mill to break each grain up into three of four pieces. I cook one pound of rice (dry weight) for approximately 30 minutes or until appears to be a white, gelatinous mass. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 09:57:13 -0800 From: Douglas A Moller <damoller at odin.thor.net> Subject: no sparge brewing more fermentables would come from first > runnings, and one can see why the results might taste different. > > Rob Parker > John> The > John> only thing I can think of is that sparging washes out a > John> higher proportion of fermentable sugars than are in the > John> first runnings, > > Alternatively, a higher proportion of the "malty" flavor compounds > come out in the first runnings than in the spargings Again this comes up. This is a good hypothese(unless one is using poor quality brewing water) No sparging should not produce more maltiness than sparging except if the beer attenuated more. This could is caused by the first runnings being more fermentable(see my previous post), the fermentable (beta enzymes) are more soulable and tend to work in the liquid portion of the mash wereas the dextrin producing(alpha amalyze) are active in the thickest part of the mash. Again there should be no differance other than the above given everthing is controlled the same. Now if you are having water problems or are producing a lot of HSA you will diminish the maltiness, this is due to not following proper brewing procedures. Douglas Alan Moller. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 11:47:46 -0500 From: Annetmark at aol.com Subject: two hole stoppers Mark Bayer writes - >question : do rubber stoppers exist with 2 holes? i checked my hb store last >weekend but they didn't have any 2-hole stoppers. i'd like to put the gas >in one hole and keep an airlock in the other so i could see the bubbling and >have some sort of idea of the volume of gas i'm putting in. I haven't seen any rubber stoppers with 2 holes (although it seems like a logical item - so they probably do exist) - but I have seen a carboy cap with 2 holes. The one I saw was an orange cap that had two short spouts. I believe one was for the airlock and the other for a blow off tube. It seemed like a small opening for a blow off tube, but it might just do the trick for your application. Mark Tumarkin The Brewery in the Jungle Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 13:51:12 -0500 From: PVanslyke at aol.com Subject: Ovaltine in homebrew Hi all I just picked up a jar of _Ovaltine_ at the store and was wondering if anyone had previous experience using this product in homebrew. Paul >>> brewin' and relaxin' in Deposit,NY Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 11:31:35 -0800 From: Bob Jones <bjones at bdt.com> Subject: 1997 National Bay Area Brewoff The Draught Board Homebrew Club is proud to present the 1997 National Bay Area Brew-Off on February 1, 1997. First, second, and third place awards (great ribbons, cash, and prizes) will be given in eight style categories in this AHA recognized event. Categories for judging are: Dry Stout Bock Porter Pale Ale India Pale Ale Barleywine/Wheatwine Holiday Mead Start brewin now!!! For additional information.... http://www.bdt.com/home/bjones/babo97.html Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 15:02:19 -0500 (EST) From: Alex Santic <alex at salley.com> Subject: Re: No Sparge Stuff This is in reply to Ken Schwartz' interesting post in #7 regarding how to calculate efficiency if you just take the first runnings from the mash. Ken, I suspect this calculation, or some refinement of it, is very useful. For the benefit of the people who are interested but still scratching their heads, let me summarize as concisely as possible: All the extract in the mash is dissolved in the water, which is of uniform density throughout the mash, assuming time to reach equilibrium after any infusions. The amount of this liquid you'll collect is the total mash water minus about .55 qts. per lb of grain. Divide this figure by the total amount of mash water to anticipate what fraction of the extract you're getting in the first runnings, then multiply by the number of points efficiency you normally get, and that's the system efficiency you can expect from the first runnings (based on whatever mash thickness you normally use). This approach, unlike mine, allows you to use whatever mash thickness you prefer. Bear in mind that you will still have to tweak it after you try it. That's because the "normal efficiency" figure we're using is based on both mash and lauter efficiency. The mash efficiency (based on crush, water chemistry, temperature program, etc.) doesn't change in this scenario, but Ken astutely observes that the lautering procedure is different and will distort the calculation somewhat. Also, by dividing a volume of wort by a volume of water, we aren't taking into account the volume that the dissolved sugar adds to the liquid. That latter point worries me a little, as illustrated at the end of your post where you calculate the weight of sugar in your wort. If you think about it, you'll realize that your figure of 2.55 lbs of sugar in 5 gallons of 1.061 SG wort can't possibly be right. SG is a weight-to-volume scale and you didn't take account of the water displaced by the dissolved sugar. One straightforward way to arrive at an estimate is to figure out the weight of the wort based on SG as you did, then convert the SG to about 15 Plato. That gives us .15 * 44.32 = 6.65 lbs sugar as sucrose. That number is a bit high if wort sugars are anything like sucrose, but it's in the ballpark. - -- Alex Santic - alex at salley.com Silicon Alley Connections, LLC 527 Third Avenue #419 - NYC 10016 - 212-213-2666 - Fax 212-447-9107 http://www.salley.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 15:53:00 -0500 (EST) From: Alex Santic <alex at salley.com> Subject: Michael Beck's "Operation Budvar" Michael writes: >According to Noonan's Brewing Lager Beer book, I'm in a little trouble. >He doesn't seem to care for mashing in coolers, and when it comes to >decoctions I can understand why. Any help available from the collective >on how to do this with my existing equipment? Since you can't heat the mash-tun, make sure you you err on the high side in the volume of your decoction. Add the decoction back to the main mash gradually until you reach your rest temp, then allow any excess to cool down before adding it back. You could keep a little water on the boil for insurance if you want...won't hurt anything if you undershoot your temp and have to use some. - -- Alex Santic - alex at salley.com Silicon Alley Connections, LLC 527 Third Avenue #419 - NYC 10016 - 212-213-2666 - Fax 212-447-9107 http://www.salley.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 15:15:29 +0000 From: Larry Combs <combsl at infogo.com> Subject: Brewing 10 Gallon Batche With Gott 10 Gallon Cooler I am about to embark on all grain brewing and would like to brew 10 gallon batches since the process is so time intensive. Do I need to use 2 10 gallon Gott coolers? If not tell me how to do it. Thanks! Larry Combs combsl at infogo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 16:35:56 -0500 (EST) From: Alex Santic <alex at salley.com> Subject: Re: No Sparge Brewing Spencer Thomas writes: >Alternatively, a higher proportion of the "malty" flavor compounds >come out in the first runnings than in the spargings. That's what I originally concluded. Later I realized that there was no logical reason why this should be the case. Since the wort sugars are fully soluble, why wouldn't extraction of sugar and these malty flavor compounds be proportional? Steve Alexander suggested that the sparge might be masking or causing a change in these compounds...maybe he's onto something. Frankly this might be a good thing to ask George Fix...doubtless he's considered it. - -- Alex Santic - alex at salley.com Silicon Alley Connections, LLC 527 Third Avenue #419 - NYC 10016 - 212-213-2666 - Fax 212-447-9107 http://www.salley.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 19:43:43 -0500 From: shane at cais.cais.com Subject: Two copies Could the owner/operator just send me one copy, I'm getting two which I don't need. Thank you very much. Shane Saylor, Eccentric Bard Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 96 02:49:29 UT From: "Don Van Valkenburg" <DONVANV at msn.com> Subject: HBD email addresses for post, subscribe, unsubscribe????? What is the new email addresses? Would be nice to have it in the header like the old HBD. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 13:58:00 GMT From: Dave Whitman <dwhitman at rohmhaas.com> Subject: re: Measuring Volume in Kettle In HBD#6, Barry Wertheimer resurrects the thread on calibrating brew pot volumes, and asks about safe and easy ways to mark levels on a keg. I have not found a method of marking that is both durable and legible, but I found an alternate approach that works very well for me and gives more accurate results. <warning: geek mode activated> Any time I get a new pot or carboy, I add water 1 gallon at a time, and measure the height of the liquid either from the floor (for carboys) or from the rim (for wide mouthed vessels like pots). If you plot this data, you get a nice straight line.=20 Least squares fit of this line gives an equation that can be used to convert between liquid level and volume, with more accuracy than you could get visually estimating between marks. In planning my batch, I use the equation to calculate desired levels at various states in my process: strike water: 167 mm from top of mash tun, sparge water: 72 mm from top of boil pot, etc. I can then monitor and control everything in process by just measuring heights with a tape measure. - --- Dave Whitman dwhitman at rohmhaas.xxx =20 (Email replies: please change "xxx" to "com" or mail will bounce.)=20 "The opinions expressed are those of the author, not Rohm & Haas Co." Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 09:08:17 -0500 From: William D Gladden <W_GLADDEN at Mail.Co.Chester.PA.US> Subject: CP Bottle Filler Query Posting for an internet challenged brewer and myself, we need help locating information on the pros and cons of various CP bottle fillers. With the mechanical aptitude of Curly and Moe we need to buy one already assembled. As usual, cost is a key factor, as is ease of use - cleaning, and overall performance. Any information on net sites, archives, articles in magazines (i.e. "CP Fillers road tested" kinda of stuff), satisfied or ... ticked off, can't believe I wasted my money on this one, experiences would be appreciated. I don't know how much of a variable bottle size capacity is, but we would like one that can handle anything from 7 oz. ponies to Champagne bottles. Thanks in advance. PS. Many thanks to Jim Busch for his advice on wheat beer brewing. Mine didn't quite come out like the Victory Brewing Comapny's but it was surprisingly close and mighty tasty. Bill Gladden (Downingtown, PA) <W_GLADDEN at Mail.Co.Chester.PA.US> Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 09:43:00 +0500 (EST) From: macher at telerama.lm.com Subject: Newbie...should I or shouldn't I? Hello all! I'm about to move batch 6 from the primary to the secondary. All previous batches have blown out about 2 quarts of foam/liquid from the carboy primary. When racking to the secondary, I am left with probably 3 quarts of air space, which up to now I have just left as is. The beers have all turned out great, but... Should I top off the secondary with water(boiled and cooled stuff)? I see the advantage as getting a little more final product, and also eliminating air that may be in the air space. Negatives, possibly a diluted brew? I really do not know which way to go on this, and will probably not add the water...except maybe if I am making a light ale, or something. Really appreciate some advice on this simple question! Second Question... I have stepped right into kegging, since I had a draft system already. The first four brews I force carbonated with good results. #5 is my first attempt at natural carbonation. 1/3 cup of corn sugar in probably 4.5 gal. beer. Now sitting in the living room, since last Wednesday. How long should I wait until I move it to the basement, where it is probably 40 degrees F? I figure after 10 days in the living room, taking it to a cooler location should be ok. But I am not sure... Grateful for any advice! Bill When climbing slowly, with 90 LB of bike and gear Or flying down the other side, sailing through the air There is no question; in MY mind it's clear I am both the turtle, AND the hare! Bill Macher macher at telerama.lm.com Pittsburgh Pa. USA Return to table of contents
Date: 16 Dec 96 9:42:14 EDT From: Bob Bessette/PicTel <Bob_Bessette at smtpnotes.pictel.com> Subject: Depressed HomeBrewer Fellow HBDers, I am becoming increasingly depressed due to a number of "infected" batches I have had recently. The thing is that they are fine up until about 3 weeks in the bottle and then they start going downhill. My past brew is a Pale Ale that was in the bottle for about 2 weeks and was glorious. I thought it would turn out to be one of my better brews. Then it happened. Small white spots started appearing in the bottle on top of the beer. They aren't real noticeable but they are there. What the symptoms are now is that the beer, when poured, foams up a little more than usual and there is a slight off aroma. When drinking the beer it is extremely carbonated, almost tingly in your mouth. Kind of like the feel of ginger ale. And the taste goes downhill. This is the second brew in a row that this has happened to. And in the last 10 brews I have made I would say that 75% have been contaminated in this manner. At first I thought it was dry hopping I had been doing with hop flowers. So I started doing a hop tea (boiling the hops in water prior to adding them to the secondary). Now I am starting to think it is my water. We have well water. I haven't had it checked in about a year or 2 but in my first 2 years of brewing I did not get one infected batch. Now almost every batch gets infected. I am thinking of going out and buying bottled water for my brewing. I assume that I will need at least 10 gallons which will add money to the price of brewing. I think the first thing I will do is have my water checked. This has to be done. And I will make it a point to do a test batch with store-bought water (assuming this is also safe). All I know is that a hobby that was always so enjoyable to me is becoming a very depressing experience. Does anyone have any words of wisdom? I want to remain in this hobby but I am finding that all my time and energy and money is turning out to be a waste. I would appreciate private email to bbessett at pictel.com... Cheers (wish I could hoist one of my own), Bob Bessette Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 11:15:55 -0400 From: bourdouj at ERE.UMontreal.CA (Jacques Bourdouxhe) Subject: Re: yeast banking question >From: Robert DeNeefe <rdeneefe at compassnet.com> >Subject: yeast banking question > >I'm getting interested in yeast banking and I have a question that I >can't find an answer to. How long can one maintain a specific culture? > The Brewtek kit mentions that yeast on slants >will remain stable for 9 to 12 months. What do you do after that? Do >you buy a pure strain to culture from or can you reculture from your >slants that are reaching maturity? Robert, you can reculture from your slants. From the old slant I inoculate about 30ml of STERILE wort. When the wort is fermenting ( after 48 hours ) I dip one transfer loop in it and inoculate a fresh slant. When the yeast starts to grow on the new slant, store it in the fridge. I reculture every 4 months. It works for me: I bought some Irish Ale yeast 4 years ago and it's still going well. I never tried to transfer directly from an old slant to a fresh slant, maybe some brave soul does it? Anyway I would strongly suggest you check The Brewery on the web, they have a technical library with an outstanding yest FAQ. Jacques ************************************************* * Oh beer! O Hodgson, Guiness, Allsop, Bass! * * Names that should be on every infant's tongue * * ( Charles Stuart Calverley ) * ************************************************* Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 08:33:59 -0800 From: Kelly Jones <kejones at ptdcs2.intel.com> Subject: Re: Belgian Abbey brews smurman wrote: > Adding the liquid sugar to > a pot of boiling wort is even more fun. Basically, the wort doesn't > want anything to do with the sugar, and spits it back at you. Oooh, not a good idea. The carmelized sugar is heated up way past the boiling point of your wort. When you add it, the wort it touches instantly vaporizes, spitting hot wort and sticky sugar all over. You'd be much better off waiting for the sugar to cool before adding it to the kettle. Kelly Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 08:37:37 -0800 (PST) From: Domenick Venezia <venezia at zgi.com> Subject: HBD #7 In HBD #7 Cuchulain Libby wrote: > LIGHTEN THE FUCK UP Perhaps Cuchulain should take its own advice. And this: > In HBD #2280 some dickless idiot wrote: And this: > Now go back to back to work suckling at the public teat, making over > priced weapons for wars that will never be fought First, I can swear with the best of them, but profanity and personal attacks are resorted to by the infantile, small minded, and illiterate. Second, I propose that the coming HBD filter for profanity and summarily and without notice unsubcribe those resorting to it. Third, this childish behavior reminds me of why I unsubscribed to the last incarnation of the HBD. I bid you all adieu, again. Domenick Venezia Computer Resources ZymoGenetics, Inc. Seattle, WA venezia at zgi.com Return to table of contents
Date: 16 Dec 96 11:54:40 EST From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202 at CompuServe.COM> Subject: Re: Chimay, carbonation Brewsters: S. Murman asks about my Chimay yeast fermentation.: > Dave Burley had posted that he > was fermenting with this yeast at 75F for nearly two weeks, and I > personally can't see how this could be very tasty unless the phenol > production of this yeast doesn't vary much with temperature, or there > was some type of under-oxygenation or under-pitching effect. Dave, > have you brewed with this yeast since? Although my discussions of my Chimay yeast encounter were perhaps a little convoluted, as I now understand it, the majority of the fermentation was over in a few days, based on the disappearance of the yellowish head and the appearance of a bright white, fine grained head. The majority of the fermentation, therefore, was carried out at near 70F and increased to about 75F plus when I was convinced the fermentation was going to shut down, like the starter had, at about 2% sugar left. It continued to slowly ferment in a secondary for about two weeks as do many high gravity beers. My wife's comments on my Belgian Strong ale using the Chimay were. " MMMM that's different and interesting. What is it ? brown ale?" I admit it has a lot of similarity in taste to the old time, high alcohol (unlike today) Newcastle Brown I used to drink years ago in Britain, but I didn't recognize it since I was busy tasting for the components. She liked it and so do I. But it is different. It is more phenolic than banana, but has a range of ester flavors that develop during the tasting. I haven't tried a second go round yet, but look forward to it after the holidays. Since the Chimay yeast's taste reminded me of some of the yeasts I got from backwater breweries in Britain and I used at the beginning of my brewing activities in Britain, I'm going to try it with some of the ol'timey ale recipes on the theory that these yeasts have not been "improved" by technology and will give an old-time ale taste. I may even try a brown ale. - -------------------------------------------------- Chris Redlack is unhappy with the carbonation level of his two lastest brews using a micro brewery yeast. >"The yeast from the brewery works great except for this one problem. I'd love >to keep using it, but I also like me beer carbonated. Any insight would be >greatly appreciated. The yeast may be highly attenuative and flocculant having come from ideal fermentation conditions. You may therefore have a low yeast content in your bottles. Try making up a krausen from 3/4 cup of sugar ( I vary from 4 oz in a Cornie to 10 oz in high carbonated Belgian Ales and US lagers), a tablespoon of malt extract and some yeast from the bottom of your secondary. At first sight of krausen ( about twelve hours usually) bottle your beer with this. For your current bottled brews, add yeast from a starter or make up a "krausen" from just a tablespoon of malt extract, at the appearance of fermentation, uncap your bottles, add this and recap. - -------------------------------------------------- Keep on brewin' Dave Burley Kinnelon, NJ 07405 103164.3202 at compuserve.com Voice e-mail OK Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 12:13:55 -0500 (EST) From: "Gerald J. Ginty" <ginty at salve5.salve.edu> Subject: Belguim Abbey Beers Does anyone have good recipes to share. I have done a few searches of the Web, but I am sure that there are more available.... Cheers..... ******************************************************************* * Gerry Ginty Internet: ginty at salve5.salve.edu * * Computer Operations Manager * Information Systems Dept. Work: (401)847-6650 ext 2177 * * Salve Regina University Home: (401)847-7912 * Newport, RI 02840 USA A Brit ========================= * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * ========================= and Proud of It Secretary of The St. Columba's Cricket Club http://www.salve.edu/~ginty/cricket/sccc.html Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 14:52:52 cst From: Bill Giffin <bill-giffin at juno.com> Subject: re: no sparge Good afternoon, With all this talk of no sparge the Scotch part of my heritage rebels. What, waste sugar and fermentables. I don't think so. With proper sparging it is my opinion that you can still get the wonderful malty character for the style you are brewing. When a no sparge brew was done in the past they then made a small beer that was indeed sparged from the mash that gave up the big beer. First of all there is no great savings in the amount of time that it takes to sparge. Second, you waste grain for no good purpose. Third if you don't have the time to do it correctly why do you bother to brew at all. If all you are looking for is alcohol then go and buy a cheap jug wine. If you want a touch more then that then it is cheaper to buy a bottle of Irish whiskey or some Jack Daniel's. The no sparge method of brewing was given up a long time ago as it provided no real benefit over sparging and it costs more. I have found that if you can emulate the commercial brewers of renown then you will make good beer. Bill Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 11:43:51 -0800 From: "Fritz, Kent" <Kent.Fritz at aspect.com> Subject: A question for the Metallurgists First, the question: Will a 50 liter pot made of thin 304 stainless change (significantly) in volume over temperature? Why I'm asking: I've had trouble hitting my gravity targets, so I'm trying to improve my brewing methods for more consistent results. I calibrated a wooden dowel dipstick for my brewpot with tap water at ~60F. I brewed a stout yesterday: 7 lbs Hugh Baird pale ale malt 1 lb flaked barley 0.75 lb Hugh Baird roasted barley Mashed in 2.8 gal at 150F for 2 hours. Raised to 170F, sparged with 4.4 gal at 170F (treated with 1 tsp gypsum for good luck.) Added 1 gallon of extra water to the boiler. Near the end of the boil, I turned off the heat and stuck the dipstick in to measure 5.75 gallons. After cooling, the gravity was 1.055. According to my calculations, that comes to a whopping 36 pts/lb/gal. I don't believe that I am a mashing God, so I suspect some errors somewhere. And please don't suggest that I stick that bacteria laden wooden dowel into my cooled wort. I ain't gonna do it! Thanks. Kent Fritz Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 96 12:25 PST From: Charles Burns <cburns at egusd.k12.ca.us> Subject: [No Subject Provided By Sender] Alex and I have been discussing a simple no-sparge technique. I tried it on Saturday and reported back to Alex: At 10:40 AM 12/15/96 -0500, Alex Santic wrote: >Hi Charles...how was brew day? Have a champion IPA bubbling? > What a disaster. I've been doing 140F rests and boosting to 156-158 without problem. This time I added an extra 4 lbs of pale ale malt and did not go back and redo water calculations properly. I don't know what happened, but I ended up at 150F with the first infusion. I then grabbed some cool water and ended up with half the mash at 130F and the other half at 140F. No matter how hard I tried to stir it up. After fighting that for 15 minutes, I added 2 gallons of boiling water. Stirred it up and ended up with 140F throughout the mash. Added another .5 gallon of boiling water (all i had left in the kettle) and got it up to 145F. The mash was pretty thin by this time and I was getting very frustrated. Decided to do my first ever decoction. Pulled 1/3 of the mash into the kettle, brought it up to boiling within about 10 minutes and then dumpted it back into the mash tun. Mixed it up and came up with 158F. I closed it up and let it sit for an hour. I drained the tun into the kettle and got almost exactly 3.5 gallons. Added 3.5 gallons of fresh water and started the boil. The gravity of the first runnings was about 1.074. After dilution it was about 1.037 - exactly half. After boiling for 80 minutes it was 1.048 - exactly on target for the SNPA clone I was making. It was bubbling within 2 hours of pitching an active 1056 starter. During the boil I stared at my mashtun with all that great sugar I knew was still in there. I heated up 5 gallons of water to 180F and started a sparge. Got almost a full 5 gallons of wort out of it at 1.045. After the first batch was boiled I put on the second batch, hopped the the heck out of it with N.Brewer, Willamette and East Kent Goldings. So, yes, I did end up with an IPA, sort of. One of the tasks for Saturday was to rack my honey steam from primary to secondary. I did that just before my second batch cooled which allowed me to pitch the IPA into the primary on top of a huge chunk of yeast (California Common) and it too was bubling almost immediately. I guess it'll be a "steam IPA". So, now when I finally get to taste the SNPA, if its malty, I won't know if its due to the no-sparge technique or the decoction technique, both of which have the same goals as far as taste is concerned. I didn't like leaving all that sugar in the malt, goes against the grain (pun intended). The next time I put that much malt in the mashtun, I'll be making a Barleywine. Charley Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 14:56:05 -0600 From: rlabor at lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald) Subject: Decoction mashing in coolers >According to Noonan's Brewing Lager Beer book, I'm in a little trouble. He >doesn't seem to care for mashing in coolers, and when it comes to decoctions >I can understand why. Any help available from the collective on how to do >this with my existing equipment? >Michael R. Beck >Rothselberg, Germany I am not sure why Noonan dosen't care to mash in coolers. I have been mashing in my 10 gal. round cooler with the assistance of a second smaller pot to boil the heavy part of the decoction. I just add this back to the waiting cooler to get my step increase and go on from there. I do not add it all back at once, I hold a bit back and if the temperature has reached the point I want, then I wait until the heavy pot contents have cooled to this temp and add them back at that time. While I have gained much knowledge from Noonan's book, I do not plan to brew exactly as he describes in that book. Also, I noticed he seems to be in love with the Corona mill. That mill picture is in two of his books, with no mention of any roller type homebrew mills. So I guess the idea here is to listen to what he says and consider it good advice, but not gospel. Happy Hollidays, Ron Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 14:05:14 -0800 From: Barry Browne <bbrowne at golder.com> Subject: Wort Oxygenation - Equipment Availability? Recent discussions about DO in wort have got me searching for oxygenation equipment. I've decided to scrap the fish pump method (takes WAY too long and wastes beer) for the real thing, pure O2. However, a brand new setup is big bucks so I am hoping that folks experienced in this area can help me locate used equipment; specifically a REFILLABLE O2 cylinder and regulator. The liquid bread system uses disposable microcylinders and I'm not interested in that. All help is greatly appreciated. Barry Browne Atlanta, GA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 12:59:57 -0600 From: Jim Priebe <jmp at wavefront.com> Subject: Re: Wort aeration and final gravity In the HBD V2 #7, Eric Palmer explains his method to attain a lower FG from extract brews: >This was achieved simply by an extended period of pouring the >cooled wort back and forth between the fermenting bucket and >the boiling pot over a period of about an hour. This is done >by holding one container as high as possible (I'm 6'5" which >helps) and pouring with great vigor into the other container, >then repeating the process until the froth on the fermenting >bucket extends to the top. For me, this took about 3-4 cycles. >I then laid the bucket lid on the bucket (without snapping it >down) just to keep out debris or dust, and went about the >normal weekend chores. After about 15 min. when the froth had >settled a few inches, I repeated the process, perhaps >4-5 times. This was all done after adding the yeast, by the >way. While this method would indeed aerate the wort, it is only by the luck 'o the brewing gods that he hasn't experienced a nasty infection in his beer. Some may say that I'm retentive about sanitation, but then I've never had an infected brew. I find the comment about putting the bucket lid on to "keep out debris or dust" interesting, in light of the fact that he just got done repeatedly pouring the wort through about 6 feet of airborne dust and debris. On the next sunny day, close your curtains so just a shaft of light enters the room. Just look at all the stuff floating through the beam of light and you'll know what I mean. Looking back at my brewing notes, many of my extract brews had "higher" FG's, which I assume is from the higher unfermentables in the extracts I was using. Since switching to all-grain, where I control (or at least have the illusion of control) the fermentables, my beers consistently finish in the 08-12 range (fairly potent ales considering OG's of 50-60). Another factor is the yeast, and how much of it. Use a fresh liquid yeast in a starter (I've been pitching 3-4 cups of yeast slurry per 5 gal. batch). Regarding aeration, in 20+ batches, I have NEVER shook my primary fermentor, nor have I used an air stone or other means of adding oxygen. I find it interesting reading about it, but have never discovered the need to use other methods than what I have always done. When I transfer my immersion-chiller cooled wort to my primary bucket, I pass the wort through a sanitized fine mesh SS strainer located near the top of my primary (with the lid covering 90% of the top of the primary). I get lots of bubbles in the wort this way, as well as strain out any stray hops and trub that don't settle out and cone in the pot. My yeast has always started active fermentation within 12 hours (6 hours now using a larger yeast starter). As usual, YMMV. If you cherish the thought of potentially having to dump 5 gallons or more of infected brew (as well as having to clean up sticky wort splatters all over the kitchen floor and cabinets), the "Waterfall Aeration" technique is a good choice. If not, I'd recommend a more conservative approach. Brew Hard & Brew Often, Jim Real Country Brewery "You cant be a Real Country unless you have A BEER and an airlineit helps if you have some kind of a football team, or some nuclear weapons, but at the very least you need a BEER." - Frank Zappa _______________________________________________ | | | James Priebe, O.T.R. | | WorkAble Solutions | | "New Perspectives in Controlling Work Injury" | |St. Paul, MN *(612)432-9175* jmp at wavefront.com | |_______________________________________________| Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #2288