HOMEBREW Digest #2294 Monday, December 23 1996

Digest #2293 Digest #2295
		(formerly Volume 02 : Number 014)


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  HB Newbie Seeks Help
  Re:Lambic Blend
  re: Brown Sugar Priming (Denis Barsalo)
  2nd Annual South Shore Brewoff 
  First Partial Mash
  Tis a puzzlement
  HBD complaints
  Re: p/p/g and Best WIshes!
  Re: Question fo Metallugists
  How to make Megaswill
  Steeping Hops with grain?
  Two hole stoppers
  Homebrew Digest
  Shelf life of beer
  spargeless connection
  Trappist Recipie
  band-aid (tm) flavor
  Christoffel robertus and BrewWorks in Cincinatti
  Perforated Stainless Steel Plate Sources
  No sparge, s.g. readings with solids
  Intern'l mail order?
  Rye Beers
  Efficiency Question
  Medicine Rock Keg system
  Dry Hops in Primary,
  Here's another one for the chemists...
  Misusing the HBD for comedy
  Small beers
  Re: Expansive pots ( not those, the ones we brew in)HSA

---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 22:56:03 -0500 From: Aeoleus <osiris at net-link.net> Subject: HB Newbie Seeks Help G'day, I just recieved my first issue of the digest list, and most of you all seem to be pretty knowledgeable. Allow me to explain my situation: My first attempt at a homebrew is currently sitting in a glass carbuoy, 23 days out of conception. It appears to be, at this point, free from infection, and the bubbling has slowed to a snail's pace. I began with ten pounds of honey from a local Apiary and added the obligatory yeast energizer, acids, salts, and champagne yeast, along with some cloves, allspice, and ground mace. The mixture was allowed to rest for 13 days, then transferred to a second carbuoy and allowed to rest for ten more. (If anyone has a comment at this point, please do not hesitate to add). It's getting down the wire here and it's almost time for bottling. My question is about specific gravity. I don't envision the final reading to be equivilent to exactly 1.08 or whatever the recommendation is. I heard that you can take a reading three days in a row, and if you come up with the same reading, it's okay to sugar and bottle. Is this entirely accurate? I don't want any of those damned grenades. :) If you could also offer some general advice, I'd appreciate a mail or two. In my experience, nothing ever goes according to books, and there's no substitute for anecdotal evidence. Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer. - -- Brian Ream Kalamazoo Michigan - -- mailto:osiris at net-link.net http://www.net-link.net/~osiris - -- China - Free Your Future! Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 21:13:57 -0700 From: Jim Liddil <jliddilk at azcc.arizona.edu> Subject: Re:Lambic Blend >From: "Alexander S. MacGillivray RN" <alex at wooddimensions.com> >Subject: Lambic yeash blend >I'm going to be brewing by first batch of lambic and I picked >up some Wyeast 3278 Belgian lambic blend. My question is, should I use >the Wyeast in the primary fermentation or should I be using it in the >secondary using some dry yeast in the primary. ***** I wouldn't use it at all. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 1996 08:13:50 -0500 From: Denis Barsalo <denisb at cam.org> Subject: re: Brown Sugar Priming (Denis Barsalo) >Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 13:11:05 -0500 (EST) >From: Paul Ward <paulw at doc.state.vt.us> >Subject: Brown Sugar Priming >Just a quick question... >Say someone wanted to try priming with light brown sugar instead of >his normal corn sugar (for a 5 US gal batch), what would be a good >amount to add for 'normal' carbonation? Try 2/3 cup if doing bottles, and 1/3 cup if you're kegging. I recently did a ESB in bottles. The carbonation is perfect! Denis Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 1996 09:08:37 -0500 From: Esbitter at aol.com Subject: 2nd Annual South Shore Brewoff The South Shore Brew Club proudly announces: A call for homebrew entries and judges for the **************************************************************** SECOND ANNUAL SOUTH SHORE BREWOFF Boston South's Best Homebrew Competition! - BJCP sanctioned - **************************************************************** Deadline for entries March 15th, 1997. Pickup entry forms and style guidelines at the dropoff locations listed below. Any questions about the competition regulation, procedures, awards, etc., should be directed to: Glenn Markel 508-226-3249 (grmarkel at aol.com) or Randy Reed 617-341-8170 (esbitter at aol.com) Interested in Judging/Stewarding Sunday, March 23rd? Please contact Stephen Rose at 508-821-4152 for a judge/apprentice entry form. First come, first served. BJCP points and food will be provided. Drop off points: Witches Brew, 25 Baker St. Foxboro, MA (508)-543-0433 Barleycorn Enterprises, 149 Union St. Rockland, MA 02370 (617)-871-9399 Hoppy Brewer, 493 Central Ave. Seekonk, MA 02771 (508)-761-6615 Barley Malt & Vine, 26 Elliot St. Newton, MA 02161 (617)-630-1015 Brew Horizons, 884 Tiogue Ave., Coventry, RI 02816 (401)-589-2739 Good Luck! Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 1996 09:19:24 -0500 From: Scott Dexter & Kristen Brainard <SCOTTDER at ids.net> Subject: First Partial Mash Greetings Fellow Brewers, I am yet another first time poster to HBD. With so much great advice flying around (I have learned alot just reading HBD), i figured I toss in a question of my own, actually more a plea for friendly advice. I like most brewers started out with extracts, then added specialty grains to improve my brew and was very pleased with the results. Now I'd like to take the next step and do a partial mash. here are my questions: a) What would be a relatively easy partial mash recipe to start off my journey into all grain? ( I really like Porters and Stouts) b) What would be a good lauter tun for small mashes like this? Would a simple strainer of some sort be ok? c) Will partial mashing improve head retention on my beers, while the ones in the past have tasted great, the head retention has been lacking (my glasses are clean I don't have any problems with an commercial brews I buy)? Thanks in advance, Scott PS- If you are a homebrewer from Rhode Island I'd love to hear from you. PPS- Here is my homepage, http://users.ids.net/~scottder/beer.htm Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 22:10:41 +0000 From: "Christopher V. Sack" <cvsack at mail.ican.net> Subject: Tis a puzzlement Perhaps someone can expain this little puzzlement to me. When I checked my mail this morning, I noticed that there was a reply to the latest homebrew-digest posted to the net at about 9:30am. I did not get my copy of the digest until after 9:00pm and I had been checking my mail several times during the day. The digest suggests that it was posted at 1:30am based on the time stamp. Any ideas what might be happening? Chirstopher V. Sack <cvsack at ican.net> Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 96 12:42:13 -0500 From: Adam Rich <ar at crocus.medicine.rochester.edu> Subject: HBD complaints Hello, This message is to publicly thank Adrian (and his coworkers) for his services. To criticize him for the policy of the AOB is wrong. Furthermore, to criticize him for not taking insults in an understanding and gracious manner is outrageuos! There is just no excuse for this inappropriate behaviour by a few people. Please remember that the majority of the subscribers are happy for this service and we applaud the efforts of the digest manager. thank you, ========================================= Adam Rich, PhD Hoempage: http://www.millcomm.com/~arich/index.html Department of Dental Research University of Rochester Medical Center 601 Elmwood Ave, Box 611 Rochester, NY 14642 716-275-8751 ========================================= Return to table of contents
Date: 21 Dec 96 18:54:25 EST From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202 at CompuServe.COM> Subject: Re: p/p/g and Best WIshes! Brewsters: Rick Walton says: > Would someone please explain what 'points per pound per gallon' > actually is? I know it has something to do with how much extract > you can get from different malts, but how is it related to specific gravity > and where do you get these numbers from? Rick, Couldn't be simpler. It's name is its explanation. Thus, as a numerical example, if 10 pounds of malt were to give an SG of 1.060 in 5 gallons of wort. or 2# of malt per gallon of wort gives an OG of 1.060 ( i.e. 60 points). This is 60/2 or 30 points per pound per gallon - a good number. 100% efficiciency for pale malt should be about 36 p/p/g. So in our case above we have 30/36 = 83% efficiency based on the theoretical maximum expected extract. People sometimes appear to use this p/p/g number as a measure of efficiency, which it is not. It can be used to calculate the efficiency of extraction once the theoretically expected extract has been calculated. To give you an extreme example of why it is not a measure of efficiency, suppose you had made up a mash of 100% Belgian Chocolate malt ( Just the name would send my wife crying for some) and got a p/p/g of 30 you might be tempted to say this was an OK efficiency when it is actually exrtaordinary at 100% of theoretical for this malt. Bigger differences can be had with high roasts and adjuncts. So use p/p/g carefully in your conversation., please. To give you an idea of the theoretical p/p/g for a complex grain bill see Charlie Pap's "Home Brewer's Companion" for a series of tables of expected extract from malts and various adjuncts. This willl let you calculate the expected extract from any possible mixture of malts and extracts. Using this number and your p/p/g obtained you can calculate your efficiency. - ---------------------------------------------------- To all HBDers, during this holiday period please overindulge safely in honor of yourself and those close to you. For the New Year, remember your enemies as well as your friends and wish them all peace and happiness. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! Keep on brewin' Dave Burley Kinnelon, NJ 07405 103164.3202 at compuserve.com Voice e-mail OK Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 1996 16:08:51 -0800 From: "Olin J. Schultz" <beerx3 at ix.netcom.com> Subject: mills > > With all the talk about no-sparge brewing to creat malt charactor, one > thing comes to mind. If you want a really malty beer back off on the > hops. You can have either a very malty beer or a very hoppy beer but it > is very difficult to have both in the same beer It is called balance and it certainly is achievable. A beer that can be transferred to different parts of the mouth and seems both malty and and bitter depending on where it rests. I love to achieve this in a brown ale by using a high proportions of munich, vienna, and D.W.C. aromatic malts without having to increase the starting gravity past 1.055. > > >>Al K says: > I personally, have used the Corona, PhilMill > and both the adjustable and non-adjustable MaltMills and feel that the > rollermills are far, far superior to the Corona. I prefer the adjustable > MaltMill over the PhilMill primarily because of throughput, less > cranking, > and much less airborne dust. > >> > > I am not sure how the available roller mills are far, far superior to the > Corona. I have conducted screen tests on all of the mills; PhilMil, > MaltMills,Corona; and the Corona when properly adjusted provided the best > crush. I have heard complains of the husk being broken up with the > Corona and this is true if the mill is not set up properly. When the > mill is set up properly the husks for the most part are whole and > provide a good filter bed in the lauter tun. As with anything if you have the spare time to sit there and mess with it, yes you can get a good mill. It is a pain in the ass though and you have to readjust alot. I got rid of mine and moved to a phillmill. If this comparison takes price into comparison, then you have to make do with what you can afford. After dealing with the philmill I moved to a maltmill, which is what I currently use. Yes you can motorize a philmill and listen to it wheeze while it throws dust all over your brew room if you want to. Hook that same drill up to the maltmill and you will be mashed in before somone using the philmill is ever done milling. It is 3-4 times as fast, no exageration. The corona and phillmill are ok for extract and 5 gallon all grainers but when moving to 10 gallons at a time the maltmill is the only way to go. I would like to mention however that the customer service and general friendliness provided by Jack Schmidling Inc. is deplorable. > > Al complains about the cranking of the Phil's Mill. When you use an 1/2" > electric drill cranking is a breeze. That is not an equal comparison. > > Many of the faults that have been attributed to the Corona mill are not > the mills fault but rather the lack of skill to process the crushed malt. You must be the master adjuster ;) > > Al how did you evaluate the mills by here say and lack of good procedure? Please Bill, I think Al has probably had more exposure to mills than yourself, and his opinions probably represent what any shop owner will tell you. Selling all three mill myself, I know I feel the same way. Olin Schultz Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 1996 20:06:14 -0500 From: Jim Bentson <jbentson at htp.net> Subject: Re: Question fo Metallugists At 08:01 PM 12/19/96 -0700, you wrote: >Subject: Re: Question for Metallurgists > >John Palmer wrote: >> The linear coefficient of thermal expansion of 304 stainless steel is 9.6 >> microinches per inch per 'F. Since I didnt know the exact dimensions of >> your pot other than it holds 50L, I took the cube root of 50 to give me a >> vessel of 36 cm on a side. This converts to 14.5 inches per side and when >> you multiply 9.6 x10^(-6) x 150F, you get a change in length of .0209 >> inches, which when cubed results in a change in volume of less than a drop >> in the bucket. > >John, you're a fine metallurgist, but not much of a geometrician! 8-) >Actually, the formula for volume change, given a length of l and a length >change of dl, is approximately dV = 3*l^2 *dl, or 3*14.5^2*.0209 = 13.2 in^3. >Much more than a few drops, but still not large enough to worry about in >doing mash efficiency calculations. > >Kelly >Hillsboro, OR > Hi All I have been lurking in the background for about one year and have learned a lot from the group. I teach Mechanical and Aerospace Engineering at Polytechnic University ( AKA Brooklyn Poly) and have have been an extract brewer for about three years. After spending the last summer as an apprentice at a local brew-pub I have just switched to all-grain. The reason for my 'surfacing' into the group is that I have noticed some misinformation at times relative to fluid and heat flow questions. With regard to the pot expansion question both responses have errors in them. John Palmer approximated the cylindrical pot as a cube and assumed expansion in all directions. In addition he used the actual pot temperature of 150 deg F rather than the change in temperature (150 - room temp). Kelly also calculated the expansion incorrectly. When a pot is heated it is free to expand only in the vertical direction. The material in the circumferential direction is not free and does not expand any appreciable amount. To see this, consider a bar wedged between two immovable ends. What happens is that as you increase the temperature, the material tries to expand but can't. This creates a thermally induced force in the bar. The magnitude of the force created in the bar is simply equal to the force it takes to compress the bar from the length it would have attained if heated without constraints back to the original length before the heat was applied. Assuming a height of 16 inches, a 50 liter pot would have a diameter 15.6 inches. Thus the assuming a mash temp. of 155 and a room temp. of 60 the change in temp is 95 deg F and the change in height (using John Palmer's value for the expansion coeff. which seems reasonable) is given by 16 x 9.6x10^(-6) x 95 = .0146 inches increase in height at the top. If we now multply this by the pot area we get a change of volume of 2.78 cu. in which is equivalent to 1.5 fluid oz. This is obviously not significant. Also remember that this is only if the pot is full to the top. If half full this value is one half or about one oz. in 25 liters!!! I also have some comments regarding the thread on immersion heaters and line pressure drop. If anyone is interested drop me an e-mail at jbentson at htp.net or jbentson at rabbit.poly.edu. By the way, since i have done a fair amount of work on pebble bed heat exchange I recently got interested in developing a computer model of a grain bed during sparging. This will take some effort and I will keep you posted Since this is my first post please excuse if I inadvertantly make a mistake and send extraneous material. Regards Jim Bentson Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 1996 20:53:49 -0600 From: Ben Pollard <classicferm at fia.net> Subject: How to make Megaswill With the recent threads on both FWH and NSB, I have tried them both and will continue to compare them with other brews. But, on to the point, if you sparge your mash after you do a NSB, the grist still has a small amount of fermentables in it, but very little flavor, (IMO from tasting it) and you take the hops you used for the FWH. You boil for about 10 minutes, ferment, add an excessive amount of priming sugar. Would you end up with Megaswill? It would be dirt cheap, (free) beer you could let the non-friends you have that don't like good beer drink! Just haven't figured out how to get the corn and rice in it. Merry Christmas and Hoppy New Year to All. Ben C. Pollard classferm at fia.net Brewed 66 Wort Hogs Brewers Guild Classic Fermentations Homebrew Shop Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 1996 21:07:50 -0600 From: Ben Pollard <classicferm at fia.net> Subject: Steeping Hops with grain? I have done FWH and seem to get an added hop flavor and aroma. I try to make a comparable beer to the good ones using extracts, and was wondering if you could steep your aroma hops with the specialty grains and get a similar effect to FWH. Has anyone tried? I plan on brewing an extract version of an all grain ESB and will try steeping and will let everyone know the results. Merry Christmas Ben C. Pollard classferm at fia.net Brewed 66 Wort Hogs Brewers Guild Amarillo TX Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 1996 23:56:16 -0500 From: behar at theporch.com (Ted Behar) Subject: Two hole stoppers >>question : do rubber stoppers exist with 2 holes? i checked my hb store >last >>weekend but they didn't have any 2-hole stoppers. i'd like to put the gas >>in one hole and keep an airlock in the other so i could see the bubbling and >>have some sort of idea of the volume of gas i'm putting in. > >I haven't seen any rubber stoppers with 2 holes (although it seems like a >logical item - so they probably do exist) - I recommend you try a Chemistry/Scientific supply company - The two hole stoppers are often used in chemical laboratory use. Brew on, Ted Behar, Nashville, TN Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 06:36:04 -0500 From: JohnT6020 at aol.com Subject: Homebrew Digest I get HBD through rec.craft.brew and seem to have missed HBD V2 #10 and HBD V2 #12. I may have missed them as I hurried through the other postings and unintentionally deleted them. How can I get copies? Please add my name to the regular subscriber list. 73, JET Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 07:42:09 -0500 (EST) From: "Gerald J. Ginty" <ginty at salve5.salve.edu> Subject: Shelf life of beer I was wondering what the shelf life of beer is. I realize that much is dependent on the quality of the yeast and the gravity of the beer. I had a pleasant surprise at a party last night. I friend of mine pulled out a bottle which I had given him last Christmas. I seem to recall that it was a pale ale with a SG of about 1.042. The beer was lovely and clear, had a nice hope noise and malty taste, though a bit dry on the palette. Any thoughts.. Cheers.... ******************************************************************* * Gerry Ginty ginty at salve5.salve.edu * * (401)847-6650 ext 2177 (W) * * (401)847-7912 (H) **** * * St. Columba's CC Homepage: * GB * * * http://www.salve.edu/~ginty/cricket/sccc.html **** * ******************************************************************* Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 19:20:36 +0100 From: Jeff Irvine <irv at wireworks.se> Subject: spargeless connection To whom it may concern: I am new to this media. I can receive mail, news (occasionally), but am uncertain that any thing I write comes out. As I understand it, there is a discussion of "spargeless mashing". As I can understand your description, it is what I have been going for about 12-13 years. I've thought a lot about it and am willing to share my experience on the matter, but would like to see that this missive ends up in the right place before expending the energy. Should this actually end up in the HBD, please let me know and I'll be happy to share the historical background, theoretical rational, and the method I've been using to avoid sparging (which is a bloody bore!). As I mentioned I am quite new to this manner of communicating, but quite "old" to brewing. Please send up a flare if I've ended up in the right place, and tell me how to formally get connected (I bumped into this on RCB). With thanks in advance, Dr. Pivo Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 18:21:07 -0600 From: "N.A. Campiglia III" <spitdrvr at camalott.com> Subject: Trappist Recipie Does anyone have a good Trappist Ale recipie?? If you do, please send it to me. Thanks in advance.. - -_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_ -_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_- N. Campiglia spitdrvr at camalott.com Abilene, Texas '74 Spitfire Home Brew GuRu Wanna Be!! "To Beer or Not To Beer, What was the Question?" " If you're gonna be dumb...... You better be tough " ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 1996 01:12:55 -0500 From: bob rogers <bob at carol.net> Subject: band-aid (tm) flavor nice to see the HBD back. i have a keg full of beer which tastes strongly of wet bandaids (phenols). i think i know why, but does anyone know anything i can do about it? Since the beer is lightly hopped, i have considered hop extracts and/or dry hopping to cover the taste. since it's in a keg, if there is anything that will neutralize the phenols i can add it. yrnmbsr (yes, right now my beer seems ruined) bob: brewing in the heart of the bible belt bob rogers bob at carol.net Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 1996 01:22:52 -0500 From: bob rogers <bob at carol.net> Subject: Christoffel robertus and BrewWorks in Cincinatti i was recently in cincinatti and visited BrewWorks. i think it is as cool as bardo rodeo (in d.c., but an entirely different sort place). go there if you can. i bought some Christoffel Robertus, mainly becuase it was in a cool 1/2 gallon growler with an aluminum handle. the style claims to be "dubbelgemout bier". the card on the bottle neck explains it comes from holland (st. christopher brewery), and the brewer calls it a "dubble malt beer" brewed in the "munich tradition". the freshness date claims sept97 (go figgure). it is dark amber, with no esters present. it is very malty and dry, and maybe a little sour. Does anyone know how to brew something like it, or what flavor components are in it that i haven't identified? bob: brewing in the heart of the bible belt bob rogers bob at carol.net Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 1996 07:14:04 -0500 From: "Steve McKeeby (Phone 616-342-3102 - Fax 616-342-3718)" <mckeeby at tcpcs3.dnet.etn.com> Subject: Perforated Stainless Steel Plate Sources I am building a 3 tier brew system with 30 gallon stainless kettles and am just about ready to brew except I need a false bottom. The diameter of the kettle is approximately 18" and I am having a hard time finding stainless perforated plate. I am also looking at stainless wire cloth but then I need to fabricate quite a bit more and I am getting anxious to start brewing. Can anyone offer any suggestions as to sources for stainless perf. plate? Are there any suggestions pertaining to options that I have for false bottoms? TIA, Steve Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 1996 08:34:04 -0500 From: "Debolt, Bruce" <bdebolt at dow.com> Subject: No sparge, s.g. readings with solids 1. No sparge data Over the weekend I did a no-sparge mash with 12 lb of grain. This was for a 3-3.5 gallon batch: - - 9 lb pale malt - - 1 lb Munich - - 1/2 lb wheat - - 1/2 lb carapils - - 1 lb crystal Crush - two roller mill at homebrew store. Using 1.33 qt/lb grain = 16 qts of mash water. Single temp infusion, in a 10 gallon Gott cooler, no mash out. Mashed at 154F for 100 minutes, temp. at end was 150F (it was cold in Houston). I recirculated the first gallon, then let it drain with the valve wide open. It took longer than normal, about 20-30 minutes. I collected 2.5 gallons of 1.075 wort, then diluted to 1.048 at just under 4 gallons and proceeded as normal. This message is a datapoint only for those who use Gott coolers with single temp mashes. I don't have accurate scales or volumetric flasks, so don't get too anal analyzing the results. I left 6 quarts of liquid in the mash tun, or about 0.5 qt. per lb of grain. YMMV. 2. Measuring gravity with stuff in the liquid Same batch as above. Measured 1.060 final gravity in the trub and hop pellet saturated liquid from the bottom of the pot. Drained this through a coffee filter and measured 1.055. Temperature of liquid in both cases was the same. Bruce DeBolt Houston, TX bdebolt at dow.com Return to table of contents
Date: 22 Dec 96 12:18 PDT From: ROTH.TER at SEATTLE.VA.GOV Subject: BACK ISSUES ZYMURGY, BREWING TIMES Seattle area brewers---I have 10 back issues of Brewing Times and 25 back issues of ZYMURGY, including some Special Issues (YEAST,EXTRACT, etc) for sale or trade for homebrew in the Puget Sound area. Would like to get rid of all at once. Will throw in "PALE ALE" from the Classic Beer Style series --$25 for all. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 1996 09:39:15 -0500 From: Ken Overton <kov at jhu.edu> Subject: Intern'l mail order? I just got my brother a simple brewing kit and he absolutely loves it -- all his friends do too. The only problem is that he can't find any place to get supplies in his hometown, Nairobi, Kenya. Yep, KENYA. So my questions are: (1) Does anyone know of good African mail order outfits for ingredients? (2) If not, are there good, dependable bulk places anyone could recommend for him to order from every month or so? thanks much, - -- kov - -- Ken Overton kov at jhu.edu Internet Sysadmin JHU Press You have received this message because you are subscribed to the homebrew mailing list. For information on how to unsubscribe and other commands which are available to you, send a message to <majordomo at aob.org> with the text "help" in the body. If you need assistance, send mail to <owner-homebrew at aob.org> Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 1996 08:57:44 -0600 From: Michael McGuire <mcguire at hvsun40.mdc.com> Subject: Rye Beers Well Guys, I finally tried to make a rye beer as suggested in HBD. I've notice that it hasn't cleared after two weeks in the secondary. Any suggestions?? 6# 2-row 4# rye-malted? 1056 yeast 2 oz perle (1/3 PWH) 4.2% I added 2.5 gallons of water at 170 F. The cooler was quite cold and the temperature equalized at 130 F. I added about 1 gallon of boiling water and the temp moved to 140F. I pulled a thick decoctation of bring to 160 then boil for 15 minutes and back in the mash. Stired in and didn't check the temp until an hour later(153 F). Recirulated until it cleared mostly, then obtained 6 gallons. Boiled, chilled, areated, added yeast and had fermentation in about 4 hours. Primary fermentation appeared to end in three days, transfered to secondary at one week. Added geletine at transfer. Got any suggestions?? Maybe I didn't get full conversion and have a starch haze?? Is rye beer normally hazy like wheat beirs?? Ciao, Miguel Return to table of contents
Date: 23 Dec 1996 10:11:30 -0600 From: Craig Rode <craig.rode at sdrc.com> Subject: Efficiency Question Greetings. Some of you may remember me as the guy who can't get better than 25 p/p/g. Here's a question. This weekend, I brewed twice. Once with HB English Pale Malt and once with Schrier 2 Row. Plus some specialty grains, but I don't think that matters. Both with about 10 lbs pale malt. Identical procedures: 25 min protein rest at 122F 90 min rest at 152F 10 min mashout at 168F Maltmill to crush, EZmasher to mash/sparge. Collected 8 gallons for each. About 90 minutes to sparge. Calculated yield approx 25 p/p/g. Now here's the question. After collecting the 8 gallons, I took a SG reading on the runnings. They were still, in both cases, at 1.020! I always thought you should stop sparging when SG hit 1.010. So clearly, I am leaving sugar behind. WHY? Too slow a sparge? Too coarse a crush? Oh yeah, I also, during the second session, stopped sparging in the middle, mixed the mash like crazy just in case any channeling was occuring, then recirulated until clear again and resumed. My sparge water has a pH of 7.8, but I have in the past tried acidifying it with lactic acid and it has made no difference. What would lead to runnings, after 8 gallons, to still be at 1.020? TIA Craig Rode, Milwaukee, WI (Where I should have been Christmas shopping instead of brewing, my wife reminds me....) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 1996 08:34:20 +0800 From: Peter Farrow <pfarrow at unix.sri.com> Subject: Medicine Rock Keg system Am considering purchasing the Medicine Rock Keg system. Would appreciate feed back on this equipment. Tks Pete Farrow pfarrow at unix.sri.com Return to table of contents
Date: 23 Dec 1996 12:07:33 -0500 From: John Penn <john_penn at spacemail.jhuapl.edu> Subject: Dry Hops in Primary, Subject: Time:12:56 PM OFFICE MEMO Dry Hops in Primary, Date:12/23/96 Yes, I tried Al's dry hopping in the primary for an ale and was quite happy with my first dry hop attempt. I waited until the bubbling had slowed--after a few days, dry hopped with 1oz. of Cascade, then bottled before two weeks total time in the primary to avoid autolysis problems. Next time I'll do the same but I might try 2oz of Cascade. Certainly if you dry hop in the primary, you want to wait until fermentation slows to avoid bubbling away your hop aroma. John Penn Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 1996 11:40:51 -0600 From: Algis R Korzonas <korzonas at lucent.com> Subject: Here's another one for the chemists... I've got another question for the chemists, although any person who has taken any classes that require analytical lab work would probably know. Okay... Percent by weight (% w/w) is easy: grams/100 grams or pounds/100 pounds (okay, pounds are technically a force, not a weight, but on earth...) Percent by volume (% v/v) is also easy: ml/100ml or gal/100 gal, etc. Now, what's with % w/v? What the heck is this? Is this some sort of agreed-upon convention (like w is always in grams and v always in liters) or is it just a mistake? How can something be a percent weight of a volume? Is this really a measurement convention or are a lot of people using the wrong symbols when they mean w/w and v/v? Thanks. Al. Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL korzonas at lucent.com korz at pubs.ih.lucent.com korz at xnet.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 96 13:12 EST From: eric fouch <S=eric_fouch%S=fouch%G=eric%DDA=ID=STC021+pefouch%Steelcase-Inc at mcimail.com> Subject: Misusing the HBD for comedy Date: Monday, 23 December 1996 12:57pm ET To: STC012.HOMEBRE1 at STC010.SNADS From: Eric.Fouch at STC001 Subject: Misusing the HBD for comedy In-Reply-To: .....OK]..... LETTERMAN'S TOP TEN THINGS THAT SOUND DIRTY AT THE OFFICE, BUT AREN'T: 10. I need to whip it out by 5] 9. Mind if I use your laptop? 8. Put it in my box before I leave. 7. If I have to lick one more, I'll gag] 6. I want it on my desk, NOW] 5. HMMMMMMMMMMMM........ I think it's out of fluid. 4. My equipment is so old it takes forever to finish. 3. It's an entry-level position. 2. When do you think you'll be getting off today? AND THE NUMBER 1 THING THAT SOUNDS DIRTY AT THE OFFICE BUT ISN'T: 1. It's not fair... I do all the work while he just sits there. TOP TEN THINGS THAT SOUND DIRTY AT THE HOMEBREWERY, BUT AREN'T: 10. After kegging, I like to roll it around on the ground. 9. Want to help aerate my wort? 8. Do you think I should rack off my trub? 7. I want to split your secondaries. 6. Have you seen my racking cane? 5. I like to pitch at least a quart at a time. 4. I can't say as I've ever experienced yeast bite. 3. I like it with a creamy, rocky head. 2. What do you think about using a blow-off tube? AND THE NUMBER 1 THING THAT SOUNDS DIRTY AT THE HOMEBREWERY BUT ISN'T: 1. Would you like to try a double decoction? Eric Fouch Head of Head Retention Bent Dick YactoBrewery Kentwood, MI - -----------( end of letter )-------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 1996 10:32:04 -0800 From: DAVE SAPSIS <DAVE_SAPSIS at fire.ca.gov> Subject: Small beers Mark Bayer inquires about small, second-runnings beers, which in the brewer's parlance are often referred to as "gyle" beers. I have been making these types of beers ever since I started making really big beers -- just seemed like the proper thing to do. And within the context of the no-sparge discussion, the results of these efforts are somewhat surprising: I have made some quite memorable gyle beers, noticeable for their *malt* character, and have often thought about how unique they are. That is, the methods of making them are unique and quite different from normal mashing routines, and that you probably cant recreate their character in any simpler manner. That is, the malt flavors are a distinct function of the mash regime. Now I warn the reader that the following only relates to my experience, and in no way confers any particular understanding of the mechanisms by which things come about. When making barleywines and imperial stouts, my grain bill usually is on the order of 75-85 pounds. I used to use two 60 qt coolers for this, but have since built a larger single tun (obtained a used 120 gallon oak barrel, cut in half, natch). This is a lot of product for a target of 12 or so gallons of cast out strong wort. The gyle beers that result from this kind of bill have often been in the 1060-1065 range. Consequently they are only "small" in a relative sense. On one occasion, the gyle beer from a russian stout turned out to be quite amazing -- easily the best beer I thought I had made all year. What made it stand out was a beautiful malt flavor that complimented the acidic sharpness of the roast. I have had similar sorts of impressions of amber gyle beers from barleywine grists: a noticeable maltiness that seems to be what those advocating no-sparge techniques are describing. Now it could be that my techniques of using lots of malt really doesnt result in a traditional thin second beer, where most of the carbohydrate went into the big beer, and you are getting the very last of the sugars out of the grain, hence possibly some kinds of compounds that tend to counteract maltiness derrived from early runnings. In any event, I have had very good results with the gyle beers I have made using my techniques, and in no instances that I can recall did these beers ever seem to be lacking in malt character. Another nice thing about these beers is that while you are waiting the six months for the monsters to approach drinkable, you can enjoy one of these and remember how fun it was looking at that tun full to the gills! Just one person's experiences. Use or loose at your discretion. --dave Dave_Sapsis at fire.ca.gov Return to table of contents
Date: 20 Dec 96 10:22:02 EST From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202 at CompuServe.COM> Subject: Re: Expansive pots ( not those, the ones we brew in)HSA Brewsters: Kent says: > According to my calculations, that comes to a whopping 36 pts/lb/gal. I > don't believe that I am a mashing God, so I suspect some errors > somewhere. Kent, The volume errors from expansion of the pot are an order of magnitude smaller than more common sources of error. Don't forget wort also expands with an increase in temperature which will reduce the error from the pot expansion when using this dipstick method. Why don't you weigh the pot full (Pf) and empty (Pe) on your bathroom scale. You know the density of the solution from your SG measurement. (Pf-Pe) /(8.6X SG) = V Voila! the volume in gallons (8.6 lbs/gal). Although there are extensive tables, I generally correct for temperature changes over small delta T's by using 0.00023/deg F. You could try a nice clean plastic rod or several coats of sealer on your stick. - -------------------------------------------------------------------- Neil Kirk says: >I do not aerate my wort except during run-off after the boil (ie whilst the wort is still hot). When the wort is >down to pitching temperature I (carefully) stir in my yeast starter culture (about 1:40, starter:wort) and we're >away. Fermentation is well established in 12 hours, and the beer (almost) invariably ferments down to the >desired FG (sometimes faster than I would like). >Someone please re-educate me! Well, I guess you missed the whole point of the discussion. Of all the steps in brewing beer, aeration of the wort whilst it is hot is just about the worst thing you can do. When I discovered this myself a few decades ago I felt like Aristotle and screamed "Eureka!" The difference in beer produced by cold and hot aeration is remarkable. Next time, try immersing your covered boiler with your hot wort in a cold bath or immerse a cooler made of copper tubing through which you pass cooling water to get it down to about 70F or so. At this temperature, oxidation of melandoins and other compounds to form staling aldehydes are substantially reduced and the yeast will benefit from the additional incorporated oxygen during startup. Try it. I garontee you will like the result. Keep on brewin' Dave Burley Kinnelon, NJ 07405 103164.3202 at compuserve.com Voice e-mail OK Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #2294