HOMEBREW Digest #2371 Tue 11 March 1997

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@ brew.oeonline.com
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Protein terminology (Harlan Bauer)
  destruction, dropping ("Raymond Estrella")
  Re:  Brewing Music...... (Aesoph, Michael)
  Re: Chilling (John Sullivan)
  Re: Newbie - old ale questions (Brian Pickerill)
  Floating Sediment (Mark_Snyder)
  Help w/ Pilsener mash schedule, please ("Ted Major")
  All wheat all grain starch conversion problems (S Askey)
  Patron Saints of Beer (Oliver Weatherbee)
  Large Primary Fermenters (Scott Abene)
  Pitching a bottle of homebrew (Loe Larry)
  Swing Top Bottles (THaby)
  party pig thanks ("Don Leone")
  Re: brewing music.... ("Scott Braker-Abene")
  Acid Brews ("David R. Burley")
  Yeast Viability from Germany (Dennis Cabell)
  Re: Cold Break Removal => fusels, NOT! (Steve Alexander)
  storing hops (Edwin Thompson)
  Sparging Disaster! Brewer considering Winemaking! (Paul Sovcik)
  WY 1056 question... (BIGGINS)
  Liquid Bread: GREAT CUSTOMER SERVICE! (UTC -05:00)" <rbyrnes2.ford at e-mail.com>
  brewing related home repairs (bkitt)
  sour mash. lactic, thermophillic bacteria (Steve Alexander)
  jan arnold primus (BAYEROSPACE)
  Digging Rhizomes (Marty Tippin)
  Results of Asst. Brewer Questions (Christopher Tkach)
  Re: Chocolate Stout (DGofus)
  1997 Moon Madness Results ("Mark S. Johnston")
  Dropping Whitbread Yeast ("Barry Wertheimer")
  Red Ale Color (James Moncsko)
  Dallas/Ft. Worth Brew Pubs (James Moncsko)
  CAL Controls temp. controller (Marty Tippin)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 01:44:11 -0600 From: blacksab at midwest.net (Harlan Bauer) Subject: Protein terminology As the digest has been a little thin the past couple of days, I thought I'd get a thread started. I've been reading a lot on proteins and I'm kind of confused. Generally, a protein rest can take two forms: 1. A rest between 113-122*F to hydrolize medium molecular weight proteins (MMWP) to smaller peptides and amino acids for yeast nutrition. 2. A rest between 104-140*F to favor the hydrolizing of heavy molecular weight proteins (HMWP) into MMWP for greater viscosity and head retention. My question concerns the use of terminology in the various brewing textbooks. Most seem to agree that peptidase is a class of enzyme that operates optimally in the lower temperature range, and hydrolizes MMWP's into smaller peptides and amino acids. The first problem arises when I try to distinguish between protease and proteinase. According to Webster's Dictionary, proteinase is a subclass of protease, but the brewing literature seems to use the two terms interchangably. Protease/proteinase seem to operate in the higher temperature range and hydrolize the HMWP's (that lead to haze) into MMWP's that promote head retention and greater viscosity. However, Noonan says, "Proteinase dissolves some of the least complex albumin to individual amino acids, which fuel yeast growth in the early stages of fermentation." (p.113) This seems contrary to Fix in PoBS, where the flow chart on p. 104 suggests that proteinase hydrolizes HMWP's into MMWP's. What I'm trying to get a handle on is what terms refer to what weight proteins? IOW, from the following lists, what is the correct order from largest to smallest molecular weight? And which would go under the headings: heavy, medium and low molecular weight proteins and the enzymes that catalyze the reaction? (I realize these enzymes are classes of enzyme and that there are a lot of specific enzymes represented by each class.) ENZYMES: protease proteinase peptidase PROTEINS, PEPTIDES, etc. globulin "true" proteins albumose albumin proteose polypeptide peptone peptide Thanks for the help, I'll post results. Harlan Harlan Bauer ...malt does more than Milton can Carbondale, IL To justify God's ways to man. <blacksab at midwest.net> --A.E. Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 97 02:03:18 UT From: "Raymond Estrella" <ray-estrella at msn.com> Subject: destruction, dropping John Peterson asks, >Also, is there a good "beginner" destructions out there to do >partial/full mash brewing? The extract one at rollanet was excellent, >now I want to step up a level and as good as Charlie's book is, his >destructions are not complete and sometimes misleading. Adding about 2 pounds of Semtex at mash-out followed by a quick zap of electricity should give you a pretty good full mash-ed destruction. But watch out for the killer caramelization. and, From: AJN <neitzkea at frc.com> Subject: Brewing terminology >I would like clarification on the following terms about brewing Yep, Graham Stone says, > Dropping is done as soon as the fermentation really >takes a hold (the yeast crust start forming). At this stage there is a lot >of active yeast in suspension. What we are trying to do is transfer the >wort off any undesirable material (trub, dead yeast etc.) By the time that the yeast is actively fermenting it is a little late to pull it off the trub. If it is a good strong fermentation, it is going to be kicking up all that stuff at the bottom of your fermenter. You would be better off transferring right at the end of the yeast's aerobic stage, what we call the lag period, before the krausen. Ray Estrella Cottage Grove MN ray-estrella at msn.com *******Never relax, constantly worry, have a better homebrew.******* Return to table of contents
Date: 10 Mar 97 08:15:01 EST From: aesoph at ncemt1.ctc.com (Aesoph, Michael) Subject: Re: Brewing Music...... Dean et. al. When it comes to brewing music, bizzarre is best. Try the sound track to "Conan The Barbarian" or "The Eternal Om" or "NASA's Symphonies of the Planets" or something really strange, like "Thunderstorm!" ================================================== Michael D. Aesoph Associate Engineer ================================================== Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 07:37:14 -0800 From: John Sullivan <sullvan at anet-stl.com> Subject: Re: Chilling Heiner writes about expedient chilling and adding ice to his hot wort: >When I'm finished boiling at brewing time, I place the hot kettle in the >sink in cold water and cool; I replace this water in the sink >twice as it warms up. This sounds a bit labor intensive to me. >Once I've gotten the temperature down a bit (after about 15 minutes), I >dump my clean ice directly into the wort (staight out of the tubs). Once >the temperature is down below 80 I use my clean ladle to move the ice >into the fermenter and then pour (drop) the wort into that. If >the temperature starts to drop below where I want to pitch (usually 68 >to 75F), then I scoop out the remaining ice. I'm generally done cooling >in about half an hour (which seems to be much faster than what folks are >reporting with the various chillers). Sounds as if you've shaved 10 minutes off your chill time, but have added an additional 20 minutes (more if you consider the pre-preparation of the sterile water and containers for making the ice). This is time that you could have used to clean other things up. You are also doing a lot of handling of hot wort that could A) result in injury to you and B) result in injury (i.e., infection) to your wort. An immersion chiller does not take that much time to use. At about five minutes to knockout, I hook up my chiller (3 minutes tops) and drop it in the boiling wort. At knockout, I cover the boiler in plastic wrap (another 2 minutes to ensure it is sealed) and begin chilling. When chilling, racking and pitching are complete, I unhook the chiller (another 3 minutes), move it to the basement floor near the drain and spray it off. I then do nothing else to that chiller until the next time I brew when I will again drop it into the hot wort. This works very well and there are no ensuing complications. I would not advise anyone new to the game to use Heiner's methods. Spend the $40 or so for a wort chiller or spend $25 or so to make your own. Cleanup involved with an immersion chiller is negligible. John Sullivan St. Louis MO Return to table of contents
Date-warning: Date header was inserted by BSUVC.bsu.edu From: 00bkpickeril at bsuvc.bsu.edu (Brian Pickerill) Subject: Re: Newbie - old ale questions Tim Plumber is on his 4th batch, planning an old ale, and has a few questions. First off, I would say there is absolutely no problem using a 6 gallon bucket for a 3 gallon batch, in fact, it'll make it easier to aerate the beer at pitching and will eliminate any concerns about the airlock getting plugged. If it were a problem, open fermentation wouldn't work. Making a starter is a great idea, but not absolutely necessary if you are using dry yeast, just use a couple of packs and rehydrate it in some pre-boiled clorine free water at 90-100F while you are brewing. If you're using liquid yeast (it's much better) then you definitely should make a starter to reduce the lag time. This is particularly important when brewing high gravity beers, along with proper aeration of the cool wort at pitching time. The old ale or any big (high gravity) brew will take a couple of months of bottle conditioning to get really good, maybe more depending on how big it is (there is a lot of latitude in this style.) Drink a few before it reaches it's prime to convince yourself. In my experience, letting it sit in secondary won't do that much good, it's the bottle (or keg) conditioning under pressure that will develop the flavor most. I use a secondary carboy for most beers, but only until it drops clear and I get the chance to bottle/keg. - --Brian Pickerill, Muncie Malt Mashers, Muncie IN Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 08:27:13 -0500 From: Mark_Snyder at WMX.COM Subject: Floating Sediment Mark Snyder 03-10-97 08:27 AM I've recently completed my second batch of beer using an oktoberfest variation offered from my earlier post to the HBD (thanks Ken at AOL). I've used a poor man's mash with Munich malt (3#), pale extract (7#) and Northern brewer, hallertau and Tettnang hops. Full 75 minute boil for the NB and Irish moss added with 15 minutes to go. Unsweetened gelatin (2 tsp in 1 qt water brought just short of boil) added to secondary when racking after 1 week, and bottled after the second week ( don't use a hydrometer, I know.....). The bottled beer is a lovely honey brown color, but.... My problem is that although a light sediment has formed on the bottom of each bottle, sediment (floc) is still floating in the beer. Up to the bottom of the neck in some cases. It doesn't look like it will settle out with time. I know the floc won't hurt the beer and I won't mind, but one of the things I have tried to remain primary with my brewing is the appearance of my beer. I really want it to appear clear, dark is OK, just not cloudy with sediment and floc. Any suggestions as to what went wrong? I know it's too late for this batch but I have a third in the primary at the moment and would like to address this situation before I rack into the secondary. Thanks in advance. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 09:28:35 -0400 From: "Ted Major"<tmajor at exrhub.exr.com> Subject: Help w/ Pilsener mash schedule, please I've recently begun full-mash brewing, and when I checked the water profile here in Athens, Georgia, and it turned out that the water here is nearly as soft as that of Plzen (12 ppm calcium vs 10 or 7 in Plzen, depending on which source you believe). I'm planning on brewing a Pilsener using Noonan's grain bill from the Cat's Meow ersatz Pilsner Urquell recipe. Can anyone recommend a good step-mash schedule for extremely soft water? Any Athens brewers out there who've come up with good all-grain Pilseners or similar lagers? Thanks, Ted Major, Athens, Georgia tmajor at exr.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 09:44:50 -0500 From: saa109 at psu.edu (S Askey) Subject: All wheat all grain starch conversion problems > Yesturday I mashed 10 lb of wheat with .5 lbs of carapils. > The mash was held at about 121f for 45 min and the 153f for 120 minutes > yet total starch conversion was never acheived. I became bored and > Mashed aout at that time. > > The local wateris hard and 1tsp of gypsum was placed in the mash. > > fg was 1.041 for 5.75 gallons while I was expecting about1.056. > > Advice as to how I might improve my starch usage in all wheat beers all grain > would be appreciated. The folling options are being considered. > > 1 Give up and buy BUD. > > 2 Increase lenght of protien rest. > > 3 Increase length of starch conversion. > > 4 Use more barly (this is cheating). > > 5 Find enzymes in a bottle and use those (also cheating). > > cheers Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 09:49:07 -0500 From: oliver at triton.cms.udel.edu (Oliver Weatherbee) Subject: Patron Saints of Beer As has been mentioned Saint Arnou (580 A.D.) is widely recognized as the patron saint of brewers. But there are several other "Beer Saints" including Saint Adrian, St. Columbanus, St. Florian, St. Bigid and others. How about Saint Arnold of Soissons, the patron saint of hop pickers? For more info, take a look at the following webpage: http://triton.cms.udel.edu/~oliver/firststate/history/saints.html PS. Jan Primus, aka Gambrinus, was not a saint. He was the original "King of Beers" although I am sure A-B would probably litigate that claim. - Oliver Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 09:18:56 -0600 From: Scott Abene <skotrat at wwa.com> Subject: Large Primary Fermenters Hi all, I have recently begun doing some real big all-grain batches (My last batch was 17 gallons to give you all a clue as to how big). Is anyone else in the collective doing batches around this size or bigger? Are you using a number of different primary fermenters? Or are you using a single very large fermenter? When I do a 10 gallon batch I use two carboys but with the 17 gallon batch I chose a single 20 gallon food grade trash can. I have also seen the big 14 gallon carboy type things in baskets that are used for wine making. Anybody using these? Anybody using copper or stainless type units? This doesn't have to be an HBD thread so feel free to private email me with your thoughts and such ( skotrat at wwa.com or sbraker-abene at comark.com ). Thanks, -Scott ################################################################ # ThE-HoMe-BrEw-RaT # # Scott Abene <skotrat at wwa.com> # # http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat (the Homebrew "Beer Slut" page) # # OR # # http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat/Brew-Rat-Chat/ (Brew-Rat-Chat) # # "Get off your dead ass and brew" # # "If beer is liquid bread, maybe bread is solid beer" # ################################################################ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 10:15:18 -0600 From: Loe Larry <Larryl at arkleg.state.ar.us> Subject: Pitching a bottle of homebrew This may have been asked before, but instead of pitching a starter into your newly cooled wort, Why can't you just open a homebrew and empty that into the wort. Wouldn't it have yeast in it. Would this work, or is this a really stupid question? Larry in Little Rock, AR BTW, Peter has been the only person to respond to my other question which was: What is the white layer that seems to cover my partial mashed homebrew after it has been placed in secondary. Will it hurt my brew? Larry Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 97 10:36:45 CST From: THaby at swri.edu Subject: Swing Top Bottles I have a bunch of swing top bottles (3-4 cases) that I don't use anymore. Rather than throw them away I'd like to see them put to good use (filled with brew). They're free to anyone in the San Antonio are who wants them. Tim Haby Southwest Research Institute San Antonio, TX thaby at swri.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 10:42:43 -0500 From: "Don Leone"<DLeone at gw.stlnet.com> Subject: party pig thanks fellow brewskis: thanks for all the advice on party pigs. after hearing many opinions, it has helped me come to a decision. thanks once again. -don leone Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 97 10:52:43 CST From: "Scott Braker-Abene" <sbraker-abene at comark.com> Subject: Re: brewing music.... >I wonder if anyone out there has any thoughts on the music they >prefer to listen to while brewing. Our kitchen could be filled with >anything from Type O Negative to King's X to Bach to Korn to SR >Vaughn to old Genesis to Orb to Coltrane to Patti Smith to >Replacements to Them Jazzbeards. Eclectic is the order of the day. >Maybe you should listen to different music depending on what type of >brew you are working on...... >Brew On.. >Dean Hey all, I have to say that King's X and Coltrane are two of the best to listen to while brewing. I also enjoy Alice in Chains, Bartok, Penderecki, Sound Garden, and Mr. Bungle. But for me ZAPPA's "Best Band You Never Heard" and "Make a Jazz Noise Here" are the best for brewing. On another note... I owned a Pit-Bull for 11 years and he hated homebrew. He has since passed on and I now have a Sheltie named ZACK. This dog is the biggest brew hound I have ever seen and no beer is safe when he is around. I wonder if Betty Ford accepts pets for rehab because Zack is well on his way. C'Ya -Scott %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% % Scott Abene % % http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat % %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 11:14:08 -0500 From: "David R. Burley" <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Acid Brews Brewsters: Sandy C. ( I once knew a Sandy Beach - no kidding) says that getting an acid brew is difficult using L. Acidolphus. I have seen this as a recommended agent. L. A. is great for yoghurt for people who believe they have stomach problems, but it is incorrect for what you are trying to do. Best way is to not attempt to sour the whole beer since it may not be the degree of sourness you desire (likely) and may continue to sour in the bottles. If you are unlucky enough to get some L. Diastaticus from grain or oak chips it will produce fizz bombs over time as it chews up all the carbohydrates the yeast couldn't reduce. Best way is to produce a concentrated lactic acid solution by fermentation, sterilize it and add it to the beer as you wish. Guiness is reputed to add about 3% of sour beer to their Stout. ( so about a pint of sour beer to a 5 gallon carboy) Try a similar beer to what you are trying to sour, add lactic acid to get what you want as an idea of how sour you want it. Use these figures for lactic in the absence of a titration: 0.1N Lactic Acid is the approximate amount in a sour beer (also 0.1M in the case of Lactic). Most purchased Lactic Acid is 88% by weight. Need help with the calcs? Use my e-mail. Here's how I do it: I do a 155F quick mash ( 30 minutes) to negative iodine of about a cup of milled pale ale malt in 2 cups of water, don't boil, cool to 100-110F add 1 tlb whole malt. Put into a Thermos(R) (silvered vacuum flask) lid on, but loose and keep in my electric oven overnight with the light on ( about 85-90F). Next day it titrates out at 0.1N lactic acid. NOW. Strain off the grain. ( I have used a kitchen strainer lined with a paper towel or a coffee filter). Sterilize this by bringing to a brief boil, covered and hold above 200F without boiling for 10 minutes. This can now be safely added to your beer after it has fermented in the proper dosage or use a similar beer you have already bottled to get to the taste you prefer. - ---------------------------------------------------------------- Keep on brewin' Dave Burley Kinnelon, NJ 07405 103164.3202 at compuserve.com Voice e-mail OK Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 12:50:24 -0500 From: Dennis Cabell <cabell at home.msen.com> Subject: Yeast Viability from Germany About a month ago my dad was in Germany. One of his friends over there is a brew meister. He brough me back some yeast from the brewery, and I need to know if it is still viable, and how to best use the yeast. The yeast is in a mason jar and is 2.5 - 3 inches thick, with about 1.5 inches of water on top that. teh water is a light golden color. My dad said it was distilled water. I obtained the yeast on Feb 16, and it has been in my refreigerator since (Unfortunatly I was not able to brew right away). I am not sure of how it was handled before I got the yeast. I know my dad transported it in his suitcase. These are the specific questions I have, there may be other things I need to know that I did not think to ask, so please feel free to comment. 1) Is the yeast still any good? How long will it last? 2) Are there any tests I should do on the yeast before using it? 3) Can I make a slant straight from this slurry, or should I make 35 ml micro starter before culturing the slant? 4) After preserving the yeast in a slant, I would like to use the whole thing in a batch. Should I make a starter first? It seems that I have plenty of yeast, but do I need the starter to "wake up" the yeast? How big should the starter be? 5) This yeast is what the brewery uses for thier Helles. Since it is a lager, should my starter or culture be kept at 50 degrees? Or, should these be done at room temp so they progress faster? TIA for your help. Private E-mail is fine, but post if you think others would be interested in your comments. - -- Dennis Cabell Sterling Height, MI cabell at home.msen.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 13:39:59 -0500 From: Steve Alexander <stevea at clv.mcd.mot.com> Subject: Re: Cold Break Removal => fusels, NOT! Rob Reed wrote in HDB 2365 ... ... > There are some textbook reasons, e.g., (fusel alcohol formation, M&B >Science, p.599) to remove cold break, but I think the most important >issue is can you detect an incremental improvement for this >incremental increase in labor, process complexity. I agree totally with Rob, that your tongue (and eyes and nose) should be your guide in this matter, and he makes many other good points, but a better reading of M&BS starting back at pp592 would show that cold break does not relate to fusel alcohols in this manner. It also helps to read: G.Fix - Principles of Brewing Science D.Gee&W.F.Ramirez - 'Flavour Model for Beer Fermentation' (JIB v160,1994) T.Arayapaa - (JIB v67, 1961) Also scan the Feb 1995 HBD for the fatty acid discussion with C.Scandrett & T.Aquilla Cold break can consist of up to 50% fatty acids and cloudy wort may contain 5 to 40 times the amount of fatty acids of clear wort [G.Fix PoBS]! These fatty acids are the active factor of cold break in yeast fermentation and their affect on beer flavor. Fusel Alcohols can come about by three methods: (roughly in order of importance) 1/ Ehrlich mechanism. Amino acids from wort are taken into the yeast cells and transaminated, this means the ammonia NH3 bit is removed and replaced with an oxygen molecule, the result is an oxoacid. and some of the oxoacids are decarboxylated and enzymatically reduced to fusel alcohols. Most are utilized to make new amino acids. This mechanism is dependent on the amino acid uptake rate. And the buildup of the oxoacid pool would depend on a limitation to growth other than amino acids - for example adaquate amino acid levels and perhaps a deficit of sterols, fatty acids or carbs. 2/ The synthetic pathway. Carbo/Sugar metabolism provides precursors to the oxoacids as minor metabolic products, such as oxoglutarate and oxoacetate, and the oxoacids are again decarboxylated and enzymatically reduced to fusel alcohols. This mechanism is favored by yeast growth at low amino acid concentrations (low FAN brewing, like extract+sugar recipes). It's unlikely that this occurs in 'normal' all grain brewing. 3/ The fusel alcohol n-propanol has a special pathway related to the catabolism of odd-chain fatty acids resulting in propionyl-CoA which reduces to n-propanol. Odd chain fatty acids are rare (vitually non-extant) in malt, and this pathway is probably only involved in catabolising fatty acids in order to synthesize other fatty acids. A distant 3rd for this pathway. Syntheses 1/ and 2/ above are dependent on a pool of oxoacids which aren't being used up to synthesize proteins for the yeast. They also require yeast enzymes to decarboxylate the oxoacids, and so are dependent on yeast variety. The presence of the long-chain fatty acids from cold trub does not affect 2/ and may prevents 1/ (indirectly). 3/ probably doesn't matter in normal wort. There may be other valid reasons for removing cold trub .... later, Steve Alexander Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 10:46:19 -0800 (PST) From: ad339 at freenet.unbc.edu (Edwin Thompson) Subject: storing hops Thanks for all those who responded to my query about storing fresh hops. The consensus seems to be that as hop oils are very volitile the hops themselves need to be store in a vacume, or a least oxygen free enivironment. This is why hops are shipped in nitrogen free containers. - -- Edwin K. Thompson ad339 at Freenet.unbc.edu "If one thing abounds it's misinformation" Prince George. B.C. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 97 13:14:44 CST From: Paul Sovcik <U18183 at UICVM.UIC.EDU> Subject: Sparging Disaster! Brewer considering Winemaking! Bad brewing weekend. Sparge stuck. I finally got a weekend to brew for the first time in a couple months, so I planned on doing a partial mash pale ale, adding a bit of munich malt and flaked maize for variety. Decided to increase extraction by cranking down on my Corona so I could barely take three dimes out of the plates. Milled the grain and it was pretty fine, but it looked reasonable to me. The grain bill was about 9 lbs, 1 lb of flaked maize. I put it in my kettle outfitted with an easymasher and mashed at 120F for 30 min and then 150F for 2 1/2 hours, assuring complete conversion. 170 mashout. When I opened the EM spigot, I got about an ounce out and then nothing. Blew on the tube. Nothing. Sucked on the tube. Nothing. Did it again multiple times. Nothing. Stirred the mash and let it sit for 15 min. nothing. Tranferred the whole damn mash to another vessel to clean out the EM. Nothing. Blew, sucked stirred repeatedly for another hour or so. Finally, I gave up. Even if I did unstick this thing, I couldnt find time enough to finish brewing. So I had to dump it. Sniff. A half day of brewing and nothing to show for it. So - when this happens next time (assuming I will actually decide not to sell my entire brewing equipment), what do I do? Any tricks to unstick a stuck mash? And, why did this thing stick? The only difference between this and my other batches was the additon of flaked maize and a finer crush. I guess the crush probably did it, right? -Paul PJS at uic.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 14:41:48 -0500 (EST) From: BIGGINS at MURRAY.FORDHAM.EDU Subject: WY 1056 question... I am making an IPA w/ 1056. I started last week...primary fermention lasted approx. 5 days & I transferred to secondary. It's been in the secondary for nearly a week now and the damn thing keeps going--about 2 burps/minute. As this is my forst time w/ 1056, is this normal? Shall I just let it keep going and going (stupid question, I know). My carboys make gravity readings difficult, so I just don't bother. Note: I took forever to start my yeast as well...about two days in wort. Private email OK. John Biggins Chemist Extraordinaire Elmsford, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 12:16:38 EST From: "Rich Byrnes USAET(UTC -05:00)" <rbyrnes2.ford at e-mail.com> Subject: Liquid Bread: GREAT CUSTOMER SERVICE! Greetings all! I must say a public thank you to the great folks at liquid bread customer service. One of my Carbonator caps (an old one, the origonal round ones) cracked recently, and after calling liquid bread was told to mail it in for a replacement, they sent out a new one within a couple days, and threw in a spare for my inconvenience! If only Ford Motor Co worked like that (heh heh heh!) Regards,_Rich Byrnes Jr Fermental Order of Renaissance Draughtsmen \\\|/// phone #(313)323-2613, fax #390-4520_______o000_(.) (.)_000o rbyrnes2.ford at e-mail.com (_) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 15:39:57 -0500 From: bkitt at vortex.attmail.com (bkitt) Subject: brewing related home repairs I used my new 10 gallon Polar Ware brew pot this weekend for the first time. It is nice to finally do a full wort boil. Unfortunately, by stradling the pot across two gas burners in the kitchen, I scorched the kitchen counter-top (formica laminate) in the process (looks like it is time for a Cajun Cooker). Has any one else done this (and willing to admit it)? And furthermore, have you been able to repair the damage, and how? TIA Bill, bkitt at vortex.attmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 16:52:03 -0500 From: Steve Alexander <stevea at clv.mcd.mot.com> Subject: sour mash. lactic, thermophillic bacteria Mark Bayer writes ... >dave bradley [...] wrote, regarding my sour mash submission: > >>From my recollection, it is not a lactobacillus strain which >>proliferates in a warm mash (105F); rather a few pediococcus strains >>commonly found on grains grow at 105F, particularly under anaerobic >>conditions, to produce acetic acid and not lactic acid. Some have >>claimed there to be a difference in taste in soured mashes depending >>on the use of a pediococcus or lactobacillus. > >just to clarify my source on this, it's greg noonan. he could be >wrong. i can't recall for sure reading about lactobacillus d. being >used in this fashion from any other author. I wrote a longish note regarding Jim Booths original question on Lactobacilli and sourmashing. (BTW beta-amylase does denature significantly upon freezing!) Unfortunately it was bounced while I was out of town and so I'll pass on the 'Readers Digest' version: There are two major classes of lactobacteria, homofermentative that produce mostly lactic acid, and heterofermentative that produce lactic, acetic acids, ethanol, CO2 and other byproducts. For most styles requiring only lactic, a homofermentative lactic acid bacteria like Lactobacillus Delbrueckii would fit the bill. Fortunately most (nearly all) of the thermophilic(heat loving) lactobacilli are homofermentative. Unfortunately some of the thermophilic lactobacteria have naughty habits. Some produced slime strings, haze, diacetyl and other off-flavored products. Pure lactic cultures are desirable and available. Also note that pediococcus shares almost all properties with lactobacillus - so a pediococcus infection becomes probable. Aerobic bacteria, such as acetic acid bacteria are a potential problem. (BTW G.Fix in PoBS claims most pediococcus are heterofermentative, every other source I've checked lists pediococcus as homofermentative, maybe another case for AlK's errata web site). Thermophilic Homofermentative LactoBacteria(THL) use simple sugars as an energy source and have a requirement for amino acids at least as great as yeast. THL are facultative anaerobes, requiring little oxygen and in fact thriving in a CO2 atmosphere. THL may not be able to start a growth cycle in a medium with a pH below 5.0, tho they quickly drop the pH of their own environmment to pH levels well below this. THL prefers a temperature rang of 113F to 131F. They can survive temps as high as 158F and will cease to grow at 60F. Some THLs are hops sensitive, some are not. My advice on creating a separate sour mash ... In order to minimize DMSO (creamed corn aroma) in the acid beer choose a malt with a low SMM level like pale ale malts. Create a normal, highly fermentable wort so as not to leave residual dextrins after lactofermentation. Normal mashout and sparge procedures should be followed. Boil wort extensively (like 120min) in order to minimize DMSO. No hops addition should be made. Separate wort from break material. Cool the wort to the lactofermentation range (113F-131F/45C-55C) and maintain this temperature throughout fermentation. Raise wort pH to 5.0 to 5.5 if necessary before pitching, no lower. Do not aerate the wort. Pitch the bacteria - pure cultures are available from Yeast Culture Kit Company, Aeonbrau and others (no affiliation) or pitch some malt of grain if you feel lucky. Cover the wort with CO2 and seal with a fermentation lock. Don't expect your fermentation lock to bubble - THL will not produce CO2 in any substantial quantity. If you suspect an infection, heating the lactobrew to 150F and allowing it to cool back to the THL range may improve the situation without killing all the THL. Taste the result for off flavors before using. Check out Dr.Nummers article in BT last year on lacto fermentations. *** NB - a Berlinerweiss is classically made by allowing an extended cool temperature lactofermentation in the bottle. This is unlikely to work in normal HB practice, since thermophilic lactobacteria can't metabolize at these low temperatures. Also many yeast varieties emit an undetermined material into beer which is toxic to lactobacteria so the yeast variety must be carefully chosen [M&BS]. Steve Alexander Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 16:47 -0600 From: M257876 at sl1001.mdc.com (BAYEROSPACE) Subject: jan arnold primus collective homebrew conscience: i recently wrote that gambrinus was the patron saint of brewing. this may be not correct. but gambrinus was a brewing dude, or something. i think. i say this because i read #2369 and everybody is talking about saint arnold. oops. brew hard (anyway) mark bayer Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 17:07:10 -0600 From: Marty Tippin <mtippin at swbell.net> Subject: Digging Rhizomes Just wondering whether this is the appropriate time of the year to dig up rhizomes from my hop plants - a fellow brewer is concerned that doing it now will disturb the hill and affect growth this year; he would prefer to dig them up in the fall but doesn't know whether it makes a difference or not when you do the digging. I'm guessing that the rhizomes you'll be able to buy in a few weeks are being dug up right now (as opposed to being stored all winter long) so my gut feeling is that now is the right time. Anyone know for sure? -Marty - -------------------------------------------------------------------- Marty Tippin | Tippin's Law #18: A watched pot never mtippin at swbell.net | boils, but an unwatched pot always boils martyt at geoaccess.com | over. - -------------------------------------------------------------------- Marty's Homebrew Gadgets: http://alpha.rollanet.org/users/mtippin - -------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 19:54:47 -0400 From: Christopher Tkach <tkach at tiac.net> Subject: Results of Asst. Brewer Questions Ok, ok I know its a long time coming, but here are the results of the questions that I posed to the collective about a month ago concerning a career in brewing. I have to preface this by saying that there are a lot of people out there who aren't very hoppy with their current job as I received numerous responses asking for the results, but there IS one person who is... (you know who you are - thanks for the info) (if you can't tell there was only one brave soul who took the time to respond to my questions). On to the result... 1) As far as salary/pay...your not going to get rich...we're looking at 5 to 6 bucks/hr as an assistant brewer (if your lucky). Salary will increase as you put your time in. 2) Training anyone? ....Don't really need it if you can find someone to take you under their wing and teach you the trade (starting at the bottom of course!) 3) finding a job in the field...keep your eyes open, spend some time at your local brewpub/micro and talk, talk, talk...ask to help out..do whatever to get your foot in the door. According to the response a lot of the work you start doing is grunt work, such as scooping out spent grain, washing kegs, opening and pouring 50lb bags of grain, etc..back breaking work. But with time comes rewards. Hope everyone finds this interesting..I wish I had more responses, but what can you do! - Chris Newmarket, NH Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 20:06:34 -0500 (EST) From: DGofus at aol.com Subject: Re: Chocolate Stout I want to make a stout with chocolate overtones. I have read of brewers throwing in a chocalate bar or two to get this flavor, is this possible. i don't want a chocolate milkshake, but I want to be able to taste the chocolate overtones. any suggestions, or recipes? * Thanks to all responses up front, very appreciated!!!* Bob Fesmire Dgofus at aol.com Pottstown, PA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 21:29:09 -0500 From: "Mark S. Johnston" <msjohnst at talon.net> Subject: 1997 Moon Madness Results The following are the results of the Sixth Annual Moon Madness Homebrew Competition held on March 8, 1997. We had 252 entries and wish to thank the 60+ judges, stewards, and volunteers who helped make this the biggest Moon Madness Competition ever. Please Note that some categories were collapsed due to insufficient entries. There were 17 categories judged. Barley Wines & Strong Ales: 1. Dave & Yvonne Brownlee, Phoenixville, PA 2. John Rice, Pittsboro, NC 3. Alan Folsom, Warrington, PA Belgian & French Ale and Belgian Lambic: 1. Dan Morris, Elverson, PA 2. Dave Drummer, New Tripoli, PA 3. Eric Kendra, Hackettstown, NJ Mild & Brown Ale: 1. Rich Sulinski, Coatesville, PA 2. Alan Folsom, Warrington, PA 3. Rich Rosowski, Horsham, PA English Style Pale Ale: 1. Kieth Houck, Chapel Hill, NC 2. Tom Mcnamara/Heath VanVarick, Reading, PA 3. David Skok, Bensalem, PA American Style Ale: 1. Marc Anderson, Kennet Square, PA 2. Matt Trout, Lancaster, PA 3. Matt Trout, Lancaster, PA English Bitter & Scottish Ale: 1. Chuck Hanning, Malvern, PA 2. Ted Johnston, Phoenixville, PA 3. Lance Patterson, Trappe, PA Porter: 1. Jeff Weeber, West Reading, PA 2. Bob Grossman, Haddonfield, NJ 3. Steve Stutman, Narbeth, PA Stout: 1. Lisa Hudock, West Chester, PA 2. Alan Folsom, Warrington, PA 3. Joe Uknalis, Jenkintown, PA Bock: 1. Pat Bannon, Jeffersonville, PA 2. David Houseman, Chester Spring, PA 3. David Houseman, Chester Spring, PA German Dark Lager & California Common: 1. Nate Brese, Lansdale, PA 2. Terry Dinnie, Allentown, PA 3. Brent Talbot, Waldorf, MD German Light Lager, American Lager, & Pilsner 1. Ted Johnston, Phoenixville, PA 2. Curt Speaker, Boalsburg, PA 3. Pat Bannon, Jeffersonville, PA German Style Ale 1. Gordon Griffiths, Reading, PA 2. Robert Privette, Lansdale, PA 3. Mark Rowland, Skippack, PA German Style Wheat Beer: 1. Ronald Babcock, Denver, CO 2. Harold Dowda, Columbia, SC 3. David Houseman, Chester Springs, PA Specialty & Smoke Beer 1. Chuck Hanning, Malvern, PA 2. John Jacobs, Vineland, NJ 3. Brian Beckmann, Andover, NJ Fruit & Vegetable Beer: 1. Jay Behler, Paoli, PA 2. Ralph Zwirmann, Roslyn, PA 3. Clifford Rones/Brian Litten, Voorhees, NJ Herb & Spice Beer: 1. Paul LeFebvre, Haverford, PA 2. David Houseman, Chester Springs, PA 3. Bob Grossman, Haddonfield, NJ Mead & Cider: 1. Terrie Dinnie, Allentown, PA 2. Suzette Smith, Madison, NJ 3. Nate Brese, Lansdale, PA Best of Show: Kieth Houck, Chapel Hill, NC with an IPA Brewer's Choice: Lisa Hudock, West Chester, PA Lisa will assist Pretzel City Brewing Co. Head Brewer Scott Baver in producing her Imperial Stout for distribution by PCBC. Brewing is tentatively scheduled for July, 1997, with a fall release. Congratulations to all winners! - -- "If a man is not a liberal at eighteen, he has no heart. If he is not a conservative by the time he is thirty, he has no mind." - Winston Churchill Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 14:02:48 EST From: "Barry Wertheimer" <wertheim at libra.law.utk.edu> Subject: Dropping Whitbread Yeast Greetings, Has anyone practiced dropping (the kind where you DO aerate) with the Whitbread yeast strain (1098)? The only anecdotal evidence I seem to recall postings about involved the highly flocculent London ESB yeast (1968). Barry Knoxville, TN Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 22:13:50 -0800 From: James Moncsko <jimsbrew at bellsouth.net> Subject: Red Ale Color I need help QUICK! I'm planning to brew a 10 gallon batch of Red Ale this coming weekend (the 15th) and although I have all the other ingredients lined up, I dont know how much Roasted malt to add to get that 'Red' color. The ingredients (fermentables) so far go like this: 9 # pale malt, 6.6 # M&F pale syrup and 2 # crystal 10L. I'd do a 10 gal all grain but my mash tun aint big enough, hence the syrup. Please help, private email is fine...Jimsbrew at Bellsouth.net Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 22:21:42 -0800 From: James Moncsko <jimsbrew at bellsouth.net> Subject: Dallas/Ft. Worth Brew Pubs In early April my wife & I will be in the Dallas/Ft. Worth Tx. area (Nascar's Texas 500) and will have time to visit some local Brew Pubs and Micros. Can some of you in that area please give us info on what the area has to offer? Is it possible to visit Celis for tours? Private email is fine.THANKS! Jimsbrew at Bellsouth.net Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 21:38:57 -0600 From: Marty Tippin <mtippin at swbell.net> Subject: CAL Controls temp. controller I managed to procure an industrial temperature controller but need some help figuring out whether it will work for my needs as a refrigerator controller. Some specifics: "CAL Controls Series 9000 Microprocessor based temperature controller" Manufactured by CAL Controls, Inc. Chicago, IL A plate on the side says the following: (my guess as to meaning is in parentheses) 911.1F (a setpoint temperature?) WD5181-068 (a model number) 115V 50-60 Hz (easy enough) Relay 5A (current ratings for the two relays) Relay 3A The front panel has a 4-digit LCD with 4 buttons below it; I can figure out how to set and read the temperature (I've got a thermocouple that seems to be pretty accurate). And I can hear it clicking the relay on and off as the setpoint is changed. The problems: It appears to have a differential of about 26 degrees - if the temperature reads about 60 degrees F, the relay doesn't kick on until the setpoint is around 73F and doesn't turn off until it's down around 48. This is obviously unacceptable for fridge control but I'll bet there's a way to change it. There's a smaller button that doesn't stick out as far as the rest, and if I push it, the LCD changes to a bunch of numbers with a decimal point or two scattered among them; pressing the up/down buttons changes these numbers but I haven't a clue what they do. If any of you industrial control gurus has specifics on this controller, I'd appreciate anything you can send my way. I have this feeling that the controller is designed for a much higher temperature range than I plan to use so it may not work well for my purpose. But it was free and is fun to play with in any case... Thanks -Marty (in the thriving metropolis of Lee's Summit, MO) mtippin at swbell.net Return to table of contents