HOMEBREW Digest #2379 Thu 20 March 1997

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		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Corn meal (Bill Giffin)
  Cold plates and CO2 tank distribution (UTC -05:00)" <rbyrnes2.ford at e-mail.com>
  hop alpha acid content ("STARCAT")
  Starter Question (David Johnson)
  RE: Spamming & HBD distribution list (Jeff Knaggs)
  RE: Hop Rhizomes (Jeff Knaggs)
  kitchen gadgets (kathy)
  Corny kegs/Live on tap, dead in the bottle. (TheTHP)
  Re: Cold Plates (Oliver Weatherbee)
  Infections ("BRIAN F. THUMM")
  Re: Using corn meal (Jeff Renner)
  Re: lemon lager (Stan Ridgeway)
  Exponentially Plateauing Gravity Runoff Etc (KennyEddy)
  Hop Rhizomes (RANDY ERICKSON)
  Hops and Dogs ("John Penn")
  Runoff Gravity Change Equation (Domenick Venezia)
  WeizenBock (Jim Busch)
  Call for Style Guideline Volunteers ... (Tom Fitzpatrick)
  barley wine kudos (Rae Christopher J)
  lager yeast at ale temp  ?'s (neumbg73)
  Microscope Specs ("Houseman, David L")
  Going to Ireland - Pub & Beer Recommendations? (Jim Youngmeyer)
  re: manifold, keg cleaning, yeast, straining (Charles Burns)
  1318 London III yeast (Ron_Barbercheck)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 19 Mar 1997 07:01:53 -0600 From: Bill Giffin <billgiffin at maine.com> Subject: Corn meal Good morning all, Delano DuGarm said: >I would advise against it, because of the oil content of the corn >meal. When American brewers first experimented with corn they did >use corn meal, but suffered from head retention and stability >problems because of the oil in the corn meal. You can get degerminated corn meal, which has no oil and works just fine. Use the cereral cooker method. Cook the corn with 20-25% crushed malt. If you can't get degerminated corn meal then use rice in the same manner as you would the corn. Gets you to the same place with a cleaner crisper beer. Bill Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 1997 09:02:46 EST From: "Rich Byrnes USAET(UTC -05:00)" <rbyrnes2.ford at e-mail.com> Subject: Cold plates and CO2 tank distribution Eddie Kent asks about running multiple kegs from 1 CO2 tank for a wedding and Mark Snyder ask about cold plates. 2 birds with one stone, oh happy day! One of the greates resources for kegging homebrewers is a Restaraunt and Bar WHOLESALER that does mail order business and loves homebrewers. I'm talking about a company called Rapids (1-800-4-rapid-1) with several locations throughout the U.S. They advertise in one or two of the homebrew magazines and their prices can't be beat. Call and ask for their BEER catalog, it is just 39 pages chock full of draught equipment. They carry 2 sizes of cold plates with 2,3, or 4 lines each. They carry a variety of CO2 Distribution Maniolds (i.e. splitters) inclusing a plastic modular unit that lets you add on as many lines as you need. This is a homebrewers best friend for draught equipment. That being said I would also get a catalog from Superior Products (800-328-9800) as their prices on SOME items can be better and the product line is a little different between the two catalogs (no affiliation with either blah blah blah) As far as beer for a wedding, brew up a nice Pale Ale and name it Bridal Veil Pale Ale and make a tap handle out of a bride and groom doll (caketop)! Good luck and brew on! Fermentaciously Yours; Rich Byrnes Fermental Order of Renaissance Draughtsmen \\\|/// phone #(313)323-2613, fax #390-4520_______o000_(.) (.)_000o rbyrnes2.ford at e-mail.com (_) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 1997 09:04:35 -0800 From: "STARCAT" <starcat at pathwaynet.com> Subject: hop alpha acid content Hello Homebrewers! I had been looking for a way to figure out the alpha acid content on some wild cluster hops from the family farm. By way of the good folks at Freshops, I have an address for a lab that does this. It's - Bioanalytical Services/Hop Chemistry Agricultural Chemistry Department Oregon State University Corvallis, Oregon, 97331-6502 Ph. 541-737-1887 Apparently the cost for this is about $30. I don't know how much of a sample they need, but at least this is one place to figure out the acid content of unknown hops without ruining several batches of beer. Beer is better than women because......when you walk into a bar you can always pick up a beer. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 1997 08:14:53 -0800 From: David Johnson <"dmjalj at inwave.com" at inwave.com> Subject: Starter Question I believe that one of the reasons to brew your own beer is to controll what boes into your brew. This becomes particularly true when you are dealing with allergies. One of my first experiments was to come up with a beer for my wife who is allergic to hops (spots and itching are so unromantic). My wife who never had an opportunity to aquire a taste for beer appreciated the effort but not the beer. My cranberry wit beer was a success enough to score 33 in competition. So I am now brewing an occasional mead (I know this is a beer forum). We also have a friend who is allergic to gluten (celiac sprue). I need to make a yeast starter without grain. My idea is to use preservative free apple concentrate and heat it enough to sterilize it but hopefully not set the pectin. Any ideas on temperatures, times, or alternatives ? Private e-mail is OK. TIA I am also curious about others who have to account for food sensitivities in their brewing. Dave Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 97 09:38:08 -0500 From: jak at absoft.com (Jeff Knaggs) Subject: RE: Spamming & HBD distribution list >>However, I cannot vouch for any previous "owner" of the list. What they >I too have been receiving un-solicited email advertising homebrewing >supplies. This started after the AOB took over the digest. Can't help As a data point: I haven't been receiving the spam. I subscribed well before the AOB transition. So I would guess that the spammer(s) is picking addresses from the archives or has a popular beer web site and is using it to record addresses. Jeff Knaggs hufkna at mich.com home jak at absoft.com work Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 97 09:49:15 -0500 From: jak at absoft.com (Jeff Knaggs) Subject: RE: Hop Rhizomes >1. What types of Hops will grow well in the metropolitan Detroit >area? I live in metro Det. , I've got Tett. and Casc. growing; both thrive. > 2. What can you use these hops for? Strictly flavor and aroma? > since you can not calculate AA %. First batch using your hops: split the boil. Use some commericial hops of same variety with known AA% in one pot and yours in the other. Its not 100% scientific but since you'll use your taste buds, you can adjust for your preference. > 3. What time of year is the right time to plant the hops? I need > to know Best is spring. However, they grow like weeds. I had to transplant mine in Aug. one year and I had plenty of hops on the vines the next year. email me when you arrive and you can come dig-up some of mine. Jeff Knaggs hufkna at mich.com - home jak at absoft.com - work Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 1997 08:45:57 -0500 From: kathy <kbooth at scnc.waverly.k12.mi.us> Subject: kitchen gadgets A couple of "exotic" kitchen gadgets came in handy with my recent brewing experiences. I was doing a pre-prohibitation beer with rice and it (the cooked rice) got really lumpy due to not enuf water. I took our immersion blender to the lumpy rice gruel and volla.....rice paste with no lumps. Last night I made 11g dry stout recipe and I wanted to split it to make a porter out of part of the wort. I ground and infused in water chrystal, choclate and black malts to add to the porter portion and then used my coffee making French Press to "sparge" the extract from the residue. Like a charm.... Now what gadget will help with a spouse that had other plans for the kitchen and the brewer on brew day? Cheers, jim booth, lansing,mi Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 1997 10:07:27 -0500 (EST) From: TheTHP at aol.com Subject: Corny kegs/Live on tap, dead in the bottle. Nathan Moore asks about finding cheap cornys....I got 10 of them for free and traded them around for the regulator et. all. I found mine at an old Factory bar that had a flooding accident. Anything I could retrieve out of the dirt basement was free! Going out of business sales are a real bargian--for lots of stuff! I got a 10 ft banquet table for $15 bucks on the same trip! John Mattson, You've now spent severl hundred dollars amassing a garage system and you dont use LIQUID YEAST!! Shame on you! The single biggest improvement in my homebrewing experience occured when I moved to Liquid Yeast. The next biggest improvement was when I stepped started pitching onto the yeast cake of a former brew! You can overcome many an infection and high gravity problem by pitching the right amount of live yeast! (yes its a PITA to learn to do it right, but its worth it) Download and print out the volumous Yeast FAQ by A.J. Delange at the Brewery. It contains everything you need to know and alot more. Mine is a part of my 3-ring reference manual. Also, the Zmyurgy Kegging issue has more info in one place than any other 2 sources combined. If you dont alreay build another EM into your kettle for straining cooled wort through the hops, The pouring throuh a strainer released too much hop crud and cold break into the wort. - -------------------- Before christmas we made a spectacular american pils that I kept on draft for the superbowl. This was an interesting batch. We, split the 12 gal batch, I fermented closed, in my fridge and my partner ferments most everything open in a 12 gal cut open keg in a (better temp controled) incubator. I bottled the day of the Feb Homebrew club meeting and at its first public head to head tasting we found we had strikingly different beers. Much more so than the Bock we did the same way. His tasted "oxygenated" and "less aromatic" while mine was full bodied and screamed Saaz in the boquet, and finished dry with a distict hop bitterness. I think the polite way of stating the diference is to say my partner had a nice homebrew, while I had a darn good beer! Maybe this is why I am so dismayed at its lack of "Shelf life" in the bottle. I gave a mixed 6-pack to a professional brewer for letting me brew with him. One of which we shared and enjoyed that day, the other of which he had this last week. Much to my dismay told me it died in the bottle. That there were White things floating in it. This deeply depresses me. So last night I opened one of the few I was saving for contests and, well, it tasted like miller lite. ECH!!! While mine didnt have white floaties, It did have some yeast at the bottom of the bottle. And It wasnt "Clearer than the 2 micron polish filtration" that it was originally. (it was never filtered to begin with) It has lost all it nose, bitterness and body. I looked lighter, lost some of its head, and tasted like water. What happened? Here are my symtoms of abuse: I clean my CPBF before and after use by siphoning Idophor through it. and letting it soak at least 15 min submerged and filled before bottling. I don't normally clean my pin lock connects between uses I try to put them on and leave them on. I soak my bottles in TSP and bleach to remove labels then wash in new dishwasher with .3 cups or so of bleach and a heated rinse and dry cycle. I tape the dish washer shut so nobody opens it till they're cool. Then I do a cold water rinse from my tap with my carboy washer just before filling. I do boil my bottlecaps for 5 min. Kegs, bottles and fermentation fridge stay on the non-heated/cooled back back porch (Light protected) where temps sway with the weather. -5 to 45F were this years highs and lows. any advice or speculation is very appreciated. TIA Phil Wilcox, Jackson MI Poison Frog Home Brewery Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 1997 10:18:05 -0500 From: oliver at triton.cms.udel.edu (Oliver Weatherbee) Subject: Re: Cold Plates Mark Snyder asked about cold plates. As luck would have it I happened to have my FOXX catalog with me at work today. A single circuit (one tap) cold plate is listed as $76 and a double circuit (for two taps) is $86. Fittings which have to be bought extra will run you another $5 maybe. They sell a complete cold plate cooler style jockey box set up for $140 for single tap and $191 for dual taps. A SS coil style jockey box is $112 (single tap, 50' coil), $173 (single, 100' coil) and $342 (double, 100' coils). All this opposed to maybe $60 to make your own complete setup with copper tubing. I don't really see a difference in terms of cleaning requirements in any of these different setups other than the fact that caustics can't be used on the cold plates (aluminum) and copper. I would probably make my own first with copper coils, and if I wasn't satisfied, then maybe look around for a cold plate. Just my opinion, standard disclaimers, yada-yada-yada. ________________________________________________________ Oliver Weatherbee oliver at triton.cms.udel.edu First State Brewers http://triton.cms.udel.edu/~oliver/firststate/ ________________________________________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 1997 10:28:33 -0500 From: "BRIAN F. THUMM" <THUMMBF at GWSMTP.NU.COM> Subject: Infections During the heat of the battle on Sunday, I made some command decisions regarding siphoning technique. (My hop back was out of service, and I was having difficulty straining the whole leaf hops in conjunction with siphoning out of the kettle.) After I pitched the yeast, and set the fermenter in the corner of the kitchen, I began to think I may have made some grave mistakes regarding the cleanliness of my process. I pitched a healthy 700 ml starter, and within 12 hours the high gravity (1.066) wort was bubbling at approximately 150 burps per minute. Is it safe to assume that the wort is not infected, given the excellent hold the yeast has on the fermentation process? Or should I still look for signs of infection? Is infection a concern during the fermentation process? Or only before the yeast takes hold and after it finishes its job? The rest of my procedures are all well controlled, and I don't think I will introduce new bacteria to the beer, but I am concerned about what I did on Sunday. Any thoughts? Brian Thumm Pier 147 brewery Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 1997 10:49:26 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Using corn meal In Homebrew Digest #2378 (March 19, 1997), Delano Dugarm <dugarm at mail1.mnsinc.com> wrote >Russ Brodeur asks about using corn meal instead of flaked maize in a >American pilsner recipe. > >I would advise against it, because of the oil content of the corn >meal. When American brewers first experimented with corn they did >use corn meal, but suffered from head retention and stability >problems because of the oil in the corn meal. Instead of corn meal, >I'd use corn grits. This is true for whole corn meal, but not for degermed corn meal, which is what you get at the grocery store's flour aisle. (In the health food aisle, you may get whole meal). Corn meal and grits are nearly identical in composition and have under 1% fat. (Corn Chemistry and Technology, Chapter 11, Corn Dry Milling: Processes, Products, and Applications, R.J. Alexander, p. 356 [no date since I have only a photocopy of the relevant 10 pages]). >When you do the cereal mash, don't forget to add >the 10% of the malt to the cereal mash. This is essential for >liquifying the starch: the one time I neglected this I burned the >grits rather badly. Smoked pre-prohibition pils, anybody? Henius and Wahl (1902, p.716) recommend 30% malt in the cereal cooker and cooking corn meal 45 minutes, corn grits 75 minutes. Others recommend as little as 10% malt. I use 30% to get a little melanoidin color and flavor in the beer. >Another idea would be to use corn starch. This ought to be boiled to >gelatinize it as well, but I've just added it to the mash, at the >cost of lowered extraction and some chill haze. And at the cost of some corn flavor, I would think. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 1997 09:59:02 -0800 (PST) From: Stan Ridgeway <satan at psycho.chicken.org> Subject: Re: lemon lager I talked to the head brewer at Saxer about the Lemon Lager. He said that it was basically a Radler, a German beverage that is half lager and half lemonade. My old German teacher told us that the Radler is something a ten year old might get to drink, because his parents might not want him to get blitzed on a half liter of beer. It's also something one wouldn't feel guilty about drinking at 10 am. The brewer almost seemed embarrased that the Lemon Lager is their most popular beer, and he also mentioned that most of the brewery's sales are outside of Oregon. Recipe for Lemon Lager (a.k.a. ein Radler): 1/2 glass Bavarian lager 1/2 glass lemonade prost! Big D P.S. Bridgeport brewing in Portland was sold last fall, and they changed their recipes in late December. The ultra tasty XX Stout has been replaced with something that tastes like Michelob Dark, really weak and watery. I used to gush about Brideport, but now all I can say is that their beer sucks. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 1997 13:11:14 -0500 (EST) From: KennyEddy at aol.com Subject: Exponentially Plateauing Gravity Runoff Etc Hugh Graham replied to my post about approximating gravity of runoff during sparging using a simple exponential: "So, I envisage an initial plateau in the gravity followed by a sudden drop then a gradual decay." <Spencer Thomas also had replied with a practically identical comment.> Thinking back to the data that I said I plotted once to track this, I think I do remember something of a plateau. This makes perfect sense as explained in Hugh's post; the wort nearest the spigot at the start of the sparge would remain at a constant gravity until lower gravity (sparge) water had a chance to mix in. But I'm real damn sure there was no "steep" dropoff in my plot, rather a curving decay -- approximately an exponential, I surmised. The plateau/steep-drop model makes sense if you think of the mash wort as a solid "plug" of sugar-water, with a solid "piston" of plain water pushing it through. As long as it is wort running off, the gravity is constant, and when the wort is gone, the gravity drops suddenly as the plain water now appears at the spigot. In reality, the answer is probably somewhere between our proposals. If my memory of the curve I plotted form the actual batch is at all accurate (a stretch, really), then it implies that some diffusion of sparge water into the lower reaches of the wort is occurring during the mash. Is this the result of channeling, or simply the relatively long contact time between the plain and sugary waters? During an hour sparge, I guess I can hang with the idea of some mixing taking place, considering the amount of motion the liquid is subjected to as it flows over grains and husks. I can also believe that especially at that early point in my all-grain experience, channeling may have been a factor. If anyone is planning to brew soon and feels like doing an experiment, collecting runoff gravity data at fixed intervals during the sparge (either time or volume intervals) would be most enlightening. One reading at each gallon sparged would be adequate to approximate the shape of the curve. ***** Ken Schwartz El Paso, TX KennyEddy at aol.com http://members.aol.com/kennyeddy Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 1997 10:12:22 -0800 From: RANDY ERICKSON <RANDYE at mid.org> Subject: Hop Rhizomes DAVID T. PETERS asked a lot of questions about growing hops at home. This will be my firm attempt at hop farming so I let the others comment on the how and why, but I may be able to help with the when. As I recall, rhizomes are usually only available at certain times of the year (like now!), and supplies can be a bit shaky. I called HopTech yesterday, and they don't have theirs yet (Hopefully next week or so). So if this is going to be your year too, you should probably start lining up your source right now. Good luck -- Randy in Modesto Return to table of contents
Date: 19 Mar 1997 13:47:20 -0500 From: "John Penn" <john_penn at spacemail.jhuapl.edu> Subject: Hops and Dogs Subject: Time:10:36 AM OFFICE MEMO Hops and Dogs Date:3/19/97 After a response to my recent posting on hops being poisonous to dogs I went back to some previous HBD searches and it seems that the problem is most common in greyhounds but has happened to a labrador retreiver. Maybe greyhounds are more attracted to the hop flavor and aroma. Can anyone shed more light on this issue. I always dump my spent hops in the garbage disposal just to be safe but I'd like to know how much hops is too much and whether its only certain breeds that are attracted to hops. Sorry if my previous post was less than correct. John Penn Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 1997 10:48:56 -0800 (PST) From: Domenick Venezia <venezia at zgi.com> Subject: Runoff Gravity Change Equation The recent discussion about deriving functions to describe SG changes during sparging has lacked any data. As such, discussion to date has, by definition, been baseless. Below are the results of SG measurements during the sparge from 10 5 gallon batches. All SG readings are corrected to 59F. The batches have been numbered 1-10. All mashes took place in a 10 gallon Gott cooler with pizza pan false botton (about 1 pint of foundation space). All sparges had at least 1 gallon recirculated before any readings were taken. Most batches had 1.5-2.0 gallons of boiling sparge water dumped into the 10 gallon Gott as mashout raising the temp to >= 168F. The readings represent the SG observed after X gallons had been collected. TotVol is the total volume collected during the sparge, and TotSG is the SG of the total volume collected. Blank entries have no data. Details for each batch are available. Batch Number gal 1 2 3 4 5 - --- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- 0.0 1.063 1.054 1.062 1.065 1.073 1.0 1.062 1.071 2.0 1.053 1.055 1.056 1.051 1.061 3.0 1.035 4.0 1.025 1.026 1.036 1.029 5.0 1.009 6.0 1.012 1.010 7.0 1.014 1.008 8.0 1.005 9.0 TotVol 7.75 8.00 8.00 8.00 7.00 TotSG 1.034 1.030 1.032 1.031 1.033 Batch Number gal 6 7 8 9 10 - --- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- 0.0 1.066 1.068 1.088 1.062 1.063 1.0 2.0 1.059 1.073 1.057 1.057 3.0 1.061 4.0 1.041 1.048 1.051 1.038 5.0 1.032 6.0 1.018 1.022 1.036 1.021 7.0 1.017 8.0 1.012 1.015 1.018 9.0 1.012 TotVol 8.00 7.80 8.50 9.00 8.00 TotSG 1.041 1.044 1.042 1.041 1.038 Domenick Venezia Computer Resources ZymoGenetics, Inc. Seattle, WA venezia at zgi.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 1997 13:54:46 -0800 From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> Subject: WeizenBock John asks: **** Jim Busch, can you give me some pointers on making my own Moonglow Weizenbock? My recipe thus far is 50% Belgian Wheat Malt, 30% Crisp 2-row, 20% Dark Munich brewed to 1065 SG with 15 IBUs Saaz for bittering. I plan on triple decoction mashing and using oat hulls to aid the sparge. Should I avoid boiling the oat hulls with the decoction and just add them at the start of the sparge? Will I even need them? I am planning on using Wyeast 3068 and fermenting at 65F. If I can't get dark munich malt what portions of Belgian Munich and Chocolate malt will get me close to the flavor profile of dark munich? **** Probably the best source of info on Weiss and Weizenbocks is Warner's excellent book on Wheat beers. One of the things I aim for in all my weiss biers is using at least 60% wheat and as much as 70% in some recipes. I just brewed a weiss on Sun that I made with 65% DWC Wheat, 5% DWC Munich and 30% Weyermann pils. Came out pretty dark with a 20 minute decoction. As for the Weizenbock, how about trying some of the caraWheat malts that Weyermann offers? I would avoid chocolate malt completely. To emulate Moonglow Weizenbock you need to aim for an OG of 1.080 or 20P, at least. Double decoction should be adequate but if you like triple decoctions go for it. Lose the Crisp malt and find some Pils malt, either German or Belgian. I have no experience with hulls but would think you dont want to boil these but line the lauter tun with em. I have never used hulls in a weiss bier but they cant hurt. The key to succesfully lautering weiss biers is the long protein rests and decoctions. Be sure to do a acid/ferullic acid rest around 105-114F before you take it to protein rest stage. Prost! Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 1997 13:03:37 -0600 (CST) From: fitz at fasicsv.fnal.gov (Tom Fitzpatrick) Subject: Call for Style Guideline Volunteers ... Beer and Mead Enthusiasts, The 1997 BJCP Style Guidelines are complete and can be viewed at: http://www.execpc.com/~ddavison/bjcp.html using the Adobe Acrobat 3.0 reader. Note that the last revision date is 3/18/97. Recent revisions to the mead guidelines have been implemented. Note that there is an expanded set of mead style guidelines available as a separate document. These expanded mead guidelines may be used for competitions with larger numbers of mead entries or they may be useful as a reference to the most commonly made meads. Special thanks to Michael Hall for providing the information on which these guidelines are largely based. Thank Yous are also in order for Ken Schramm, Steve Dempsey, and Dan McConnell. The beer categories have remained stable since early February. In the future the guidelines will be updated only once at the end of the year. Since beer styles are always changing and evolving, the BJCP has decided to form a subcommittee of the Competition Committee to evaluate, research, and update our guidelines. We are looking for a variety of individuals to fill various roles in the committee. The level of commitment may vary greatly. One can volunteer as an outside consultant for a particular style or become a long term member of the committee. Qualifications may include but are not limited to: -access to historical materials. -access to research materials. -in depth knowledge of all styles. -expertise in a particular style. -acquainted with known expert(s) on a style. -able to perform research/interviews with experts in a style's country of origin. -experience and knowledge chairing committees, keeping focus and bringing issues to closure. -commercial industry contacts. -commercial brewing experience Interested parties should e-mail Tom Fitzpatrick (fitz at fnal.gov) with the following information: 1. Name 2. Preferred e-mail address 3. City, State, Country 4. Paragraph outlining your desired role and level of time commitment. The BJCP welcomes all opinions, comments, and suggestions regarding style guidelines. Cheers! Tom Fitzpatrick BJCP Competition Director BJCP Competition Committee Chairman Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 1997 14:25:41 -0500 (EST) From: Rae Christopher J <3cjr7 at qlink.queensu.ca> Subject: barley wine kudos this is a big kudos to all the hbd'ers who sent me their recipes for barleywine and answered my questions re:carbonation... the consensus seems to be that in order to carbonate, i use a low to medium amount of priming sugar, and re-pitch the yeast at bottling time. so, kudos to: sw schultz m faraggi s mick i will brew this barleywine in the next two months or so, and my decision re:which one to brew will be based primarily on what i can get my hands on... so far, it looks like i can get just about any substance i need... my homebrew supply shop is better than i ever suspected... i'll post the results re:yumminess in a few months. thanks again! ___________________________________________________________ This is Chris' signature: C____ R__ &% His home page is at http://qlink.queensu.ca/~3cjr7/ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 1997 15:07:05 -0400 (EDT) From: neumbg73 at snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu Subject: lager yeast at ale temp ?'s Hello..I've been eyeing the Spider's Tongue Rauchbier recipie in TNCJOHB lately. I was planning to use the suggested 1-2 pkgs of lager yeast and ferment at ale/room temps since spring is here and my basement will not be at lager temps too much longer. I'd like to hear comments on what this will effects this will have on the outcome of the beer. (I've also read that dried lager yeasts don't ferment well at lager temps, so maybe this is 'moot') Any comments would be great. Posting/or private e-mail is fine. TIA & TTFN bern neumann / kb2ebe "Secret Caverns Pico Brewery" Secret Caverns, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 1997 16:30:56 -0500 From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com> Subject: Microscope Specs If I have the opportunity to pick up a used or inexpensive microscope with the expected use to aid in the culturing and nurturing of yeasts and other brewing friends, what specs do I need to look for as minimum? Lighting? Power? Are any special stains or slides needed for working with yeasts or bacterias used in brewing? Thanks. Private EMAIL OK. Dave Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 1997 16:55:16 -0600 From: Jim Youngmeyer <youngmeyer at POSC.org> Subject: Going to Ireland - Pub & Beer Recommendations? I will be vacationing in Ireland for two weeks in May. Can anyone = recommend any beer-related adventures I shouldn't miss? Specifically I = am interested in historical or atmospheric pubs, breweries, or brewpubs. = I am planning on going to the Guiness brewery and the Porterhouse = brewpub in Dublin. I have heard that there is not as much variety of = beers available in Ireland as in England because Guiness pretty much = controls the Market. Jim Youngmeyer Houston, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 97 16:39 PST From: cburns at egusd.k12.ca.us (Charles Burns) Subject: re: manifold, keg cleaning, yeast, straining John Mattson asks in HBD 2378: 1. I have cleaned my kegs first by soaking overnight with a cup of vinegar and hot water (disassembled dip tubes/connections soaked them separately). John, the acid in the vinegar may not be good for the stainless. ... the pop smell was just as strong as before I started cleaning them.<snip> What should I try next? I clean mine with TSP, but I had the same problem until I pulled out the dip tubes, tore off a small piece of a cotton rag, attached it to a clothes hanger and pulled the rag through the dip tube several times, rinsing each time through. You won't believe the gunk I found in there (gag me please...). <snip>... if I am carbonating with C02 in the keg, do I still need to add sugar? No, you don't. It'll just cause the yeast to reactivate giving you more sediment to deal with. 2. My next question is about yeast.... <snip> If I rehydrate the yeast in a sterilized cup with boiled water cooled to 40 to 45 centigrade (104 to 115 degrees farenheit), wait 10 minutes or so then stir before pitching, is it a shock to the yeast to pitch it into wort that is 65 to 70 degrees farenheit? Should I wait until they are the same temperature? There is even a greater difference going from 104 to 115 degrees rehydrating the yeast to 50 degree farenheit lagering temperatures in the garage. Any advice? I've pitched like that and never had a problem. BUT, 115F is a bit warm. Definitely keep it below 110, preferably around 90-95. 3. One last question.... I strain the cooled wort with a funnel and strainer as I pour it into the carboy. With someone else's help, I cover the clean carboy top with a piece of plastic wrap, hold it in place with one hand over the top, and shake it to try and aerate the wort. Should I shake it before I pitch the yeast, or does it matter? Also, would it be better to shake the carboy a little before it is completely full (while there is more air in the headspace), then fill it the rest of the way and shake again? suggestions? Get a larger carboy. The headspace is worth the extra few bucks. I use 6.5 gal carboys for 5 gallon batches. Pitch, then aerate. I pitch and fix the airlock, then tilt the carboy up on edge and rotate the top of the bottle in quick, small circles. In about 1 minute of that I get 4-6" of bubbles on top of the wort. I think it works well. Welcome to the sport! Charley in N. Cal. Return to table of contents
Date: 19 Mar 97 19:30:04 EST From: Ron_Barbercheck at MB01.CCMAIL.CompuServe.COM Subject: 1318 London III yeast I've brewed three batches of beer with this yeast. one light ale with about 2 lbs. of pumpkin in the mash, one low alcohol ale with 1 lb. of crystal 60L and Costmary instead of hops and one IPA. The two lower alcohol brews did really well. I didn't experience any noticable fermentation/floc. problems. The IPA on the other hand has a very noticable fruity/grape flavor and warm nose. Still I didn't have any noticable fermentation/floc. problems. I would use this yeast again in lower alcohol brews and in brews that I wanted a fruity/grape flavor. My fermentation temperatures ranged from about 64^F and 68^F. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 1997 22:56:52 -0500 (EST) From: JSuppaHob at aol.com Subject: PLEASE DON'T SEND PLEASE DON'T SEND Return to table of contents