HOMEBREW Digest #2387 Tue 01 April 1997

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@ brew.oeonline.com
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		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Boiling volumes in Pots ("Michel and Connie Brown")
  Re: follow up on using hemocytometer (Joe Rolfe)
  Hydrometer correction formula (Dave Whitman)
  AHA NHC (Bill Giffin)
  Wheat beer-rings around bottle necks (Randy Ricchi)
  RE: Diets ("Bridges, Scott")
  blow off vs... (mark evans)
  Re: Decoction, tannin, corrections (Steve Alexander)
  Bier De Garde recipe (Jim Wallace)
  Decoction - The King's new clothes? (Charles Rich)
  AHA Membership Benefits/Decoction mashing-extract efficiency (George De Piro)
  North Dakota Brewers (Ralph Link)
  Vitamin C and Oxygen (jander)
  Kent Dog Hops/Fermenting in Sankey kegs (RANDY ERICKSON)
  Malty flavor / RIMS vs Decoction (George De Piro)
  contest announcement (Btalk)
  Wanted:  a couple ft. of 1/2" ID silicon tubing (Mike Spinelli)
  Shorter brew day tip/question ("Reed,Randy")
  Re:  alpha and beta amylase (Edward J. Basgall)
  One for Al K/RE: Water Analysis/Bottling Yeast (John C Peterson)
  MaltMill motor horsepower (Ian Smith)
  RE: Vitamin C, Oxygen and Homebre / Corriander (Nathan Moore)
  hopped cider (Lenny Garfinkel)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 23:15:58 -0800 From: "Michel and Connie Brown" <hommade at spiritone.com> Subject: Boiling volumes in Pots This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_01BC3D60.532F6120 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit RB:The bottom line is, I think anything less than a 10 gallon pot is too small for 5 gallon RB:batches. Opinions? Well, Rich, that would depend on at least three variables that I can think of, perhaps even more. The minimum requirements IMHO are that the caloric energy required to drive the heat increase are proportional to the loss such that an extremely violent boil is prevented, but rather a firm roiling boil is initiated and maintained. Also, I would consider the heat source and energy equivalence (eg therms for gas, btu's for electric) in relationship to the volume as it relates to the shape (over/under square). Then there is the viscosity of the wort, which will affect the bubble size during the boil. My 8 gallon S.S. boiler is undersquare by 10%, yet it will perform a full wort boil in 30 minutes, or less, without boilover (this is with a 6.5 gallon volume on a 10 inch stovetop electric burner on high) going from mashout to boiling. Just my personal experience from the past 25 years. Let me know what you hear from others, OK? Dr. Michel J. Brown, D.C. mjbrown at teleport.com http://www.teleport.com/~mjbrown "Big Man don't drink no stinking light beer!" "Big Man drink beer what got BIG TASTE!" Big Man Brewing (R) 1996 - ------=_NextPart_000_01BC3D60.532F6120 Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable <html><head></head><BODY bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF"><p><font size=3D2 = color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Arial">RB:The bottom line is, I think anything = less than a 10 gallon pot is too small for 5 gallon RB:batches. = Opinions?<br><br>Well, Rich, that would depend on at least three = variables that I can think of, perhaps even more. The minimum = requirements IMHO are that the caloric energy required to drive the heat = increase are proportional to the loss such that an extremely violent = boil is prevented, but rather a firm roiling boil is initiated and = maintained. Also, I would consider the heat source and energy = equivalence (eg therms for gas, btu's for electric) in relationship to = the volume as it relates to the shape (over/under square). Then there is = the viscosity of the wort, which will affect the bubble size during the = boil. My 8 gallon S.S. boiler is undersquare by 10%, yet it will perform = a full wort boil in 30 minutes, or less, without boilover (this is with = a 6.5 gallon volume on a 10 inch stovetop electric burner on high) going = from mashout to boiling. Just my personal experience from the past 25 = years. Let me know what you hear from others, = OK?<br><br>&#009;&#009;&#009; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Dr. Michel = J. Brown, D.C.<br>&#009;&#009;<font = color=3D"#0000FF"><u>mjbrown at teleport.com</u><font color=3D"#000000"> = <font color=3D"#0000FF"><u>http://www.teleport.com/~mjbrown</u><font = color=3D"#000000"><br>&#009; = &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&quot;Big = Man don't drink no stinking light beer!&quot;<br> = &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&= nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&quot;Big Man drink beer = what got BIG TASTE!&quot;<br> = &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&= nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n= bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Big Man Brewing (R) 1996</p> </font></font></font></font></font></body></html> - ------=_NextPart_000_01BC3D60.532F6120-- Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 08:46:13 -0500 (EST) From: Joe Rolfe <onbc at shore.net> Subject: Re: follow up on using hemocytometer in addition to that last hbd post, if the cell count is greater than a "few hundred" on the grid the counting can be tedious....do a dilution or two to get a reasonable number and take this into consideration when you calculate.... i think the best range was less than 400/chamber.... in counting that i have done, the outcome can vary quite a bit, so insure your sample is mixed well/or done by wt and the dilutions are done very accurately. the other big ticket item is the slide and slip must be very clean and if you break the slip - you need to replace with the "special kind" not a off the shelf pack of a hundred kind. good luck joe Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 08:52:57 -0500 From: Dave Whitman <dwhitman at rohmhaas.com> Subject: Hydrometer correction formula In HBD#2386, Jim Thomas asks about a formula for correcting hydrometer readings. Jim, I've got a nice equation that does a great job of predicting 60F hydrometer readings from higher temperature observations, and have encorporated it into an Excel spreadsheet as you are trying to do. Unfortunately I don't have the formula handy as I write this. What I can give you is the way I GOT the formula, which you can use to generate your own, custom tailored to your hydrometer. (Is the temperature correction hydrometer dependent, or just a density change of the wort itself? My intuition says that hydrometer expansion is part of the observed effect, but I can't back this up rigorously.) My hydrometer came with a little correction table. I plotted the data from the table, then did a least squares polynomial fit to generate an empirical function to mimic the data. The data was decidedly nonlinear, but a quadratic (i.e. y = ax2 + bx + c) fit it very nicely over the range I had data for. I've checked the equation many times and it gives good predictions of 60F SG readings within my observational error over the range 60-120F. I did the fitting from within my graphing software (Kaleidagraph) but I'm sure that if you dig around, Excel can do it too. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 08:51:25 -0600 From: Bill Giffin <billgiffin at maine.com> Subject: AHA NHC Good morning all, Tom Pope said: >Bill Giffin has again criticized the the AHA and their competition. It's evident Bill doesn't like the AHA < I don't dislike the AHA I am extremely disapointed with them. The AHA often presents itself as something it isn't or promises to provide a service which is beyond its competence. I believe that the AHA NHC is one of the services that is beyond the competence of the AHA. Tom again: > I do believe, however, that his remarks concerning the judging are unfair and untrue, at least in my experience. < Anyone who has judged, organized a competition knows there are excellent judges, good judges, and not so good judges. There are too sides to the judging question one is the judges, with whom I find no fault being one, the other is the organization of the competition and that can have a very serious effect on the judging. A judge can only be expected to judge adequeately a few beers within a given time This number has been given as between 8-12. Yet at the last NHC first round I judged I judged 12 pale ales in the morning and 15 barleywines in the afternoon. How well do you think the barleywines were judged no matter how hard my partner and I tried? Tom goes on to say that at least in his region the beers are well and properly judged and a good many of them win first place. If the folks on the West coast are doing such a good job then why is it that so many of the beers that win in that region have only a nodding aquantance with the style guidelines? Numbers of beers that a judge has to judge, the temperature that the beers are presented to the judges, the conditions of the area where the judging takes place, these are items that have a great effect on the outcome of a competition and many of them have been done incorrectly by the AHA NHC. Further more each year I entered the AHA NHC at least 10% of the entered beers got lost, broken or the score sheets were not returned. When you complain you get ho hum. Bill Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 09:07:12 -0500 From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi at ccisd.k12.mi.us> Subject: Wheat beer-rings around bottle necks It seems whenever I brew a beer with a weizen or a belgian yeast, I get rings around the necks of my bottles. The beers taste fine, so I don't think they're infected. If I had this problem with only my weizens or witbiers, I would think they might be "protein rings", but I've noticed this same phenomenon in my all-barley belgian ales as well. I don't have this problem with my other ales or lagers. I either do step infusions, or (usually with weizens)single decoctions. It would be easy for me to assume from the above information that it has something to do with the yeast, except for the fact that none of the other brewers I know have had this problem. Any idea's out there? I sanitize my bottles by soaking them in bleach solution (.5 oz. per gal), usually overnight. Could this eventually cause etching in the glass which could attract weizen/belgian type yeast? There is no visible etching in any of my bottles and I've been using them for about four years. By the way, I have a weizen in secondary right now and there is a film on the surface of the beer. It sort of looks like an oil slick and where it contacts the carboy sides, the smudge looks like the same stuff I get in my bottles. Once again, the beer tastes fine. Another thing that has been bugging me over the years (and it might be related to the above problem) is that when I brew very pale beers (All pilsener malt lagers, for instance) the yeast (or something)tends to cling to the sides of the bottles. This happens whether I do a decoction mash or a step infusion, and with ales as well as lagers, but doesn't happen with beers that are amber or darker in color. The only way to avoid this is to fine the beers in secondary with polyclar or bentonite, or I suppose a long secondary without finings would do the job, but I'm usually not that patient. This problem also makes me wonder about invisible etching in my bottles, or could a slight bleach residue act as some kind of magnet for yeast? Any input would be appreciated; private e-mail or otherwise. Randall B. Ricchi 394 Lakeview Drive Hancock, MI 49930 (906)482-3754 "Should anyone thirst, let them come unto me and drink" Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 97 08:54:00 EST From: "Bridges, Scott" <bridgess at mmsmtp.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM> Subject: RE: Diets Randy writes: >Can any nutritionists out there recommend the best diet for an >over-weight home brewer? I drink about 2-3 pints of home-brew or craft brew >a day. Since beginning my brewing 4 years ago, my weight has steadily >risen. Light beer will never be brewed in my basement, and I do not wish to >drink less beer. After all, a beer judge must do his research... What >portion of my diet that I can reduce in order to better balance the >wonderful empty calories of beer? (Less bread, carbohydrates?...) Good question. I'm surprised that this doesn't come up more often. After all, those of us who are passionate about beer do tend to consume a large number of calories that needs to be accounted for somehow. My beer consumption is about the same as yours. I'm not a nutritionist, but I've always been kind of health conscious. I encountered a similar problem with weight gain when I started drinking more homebrew/craft brew. I still do struggle to keep the weight down. I'm not a fan of " fad diets". I don't think that they do any good. My recommendation is to continue to try to eat a balanced diet. We ALL tend to eat too much fat. Cutting back on that always helps (9 calories per gram vs. 4 for protein and carbohydrates, if I recall correctly). The bottom line for me is physical activity. I find that I can maintain my weight much more easily, regardless of diet, if I stay active. It's a simple equation. To lose weight, calorie output must be greater than calorie input. If you drink beer, you need to remember that beer becomes part of the input side of the equation. Scott Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 08:45:44 -0600 (CST) From: mark.evans at midplains.net (mark evans) Subject: blow off vs... HBD: For many years I have been using the blow off tube to deal with the ferment head. In my five gallon carboy it seemed like the the thing to do. I recently went to a 6.5 gallon glass for primary. I'm curious (the curse of being a homebrewer, eh?)... what are the opinions of any who do either way (to blow off or not to blow off) and especially those that have done both. Comments could be couched regarding off flavors, etc., with mentions of types of brews. Thanks. mark Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 11:09:42 -0300 From: Steve Alexander <stevea at clv.mcd.mot.com> Subject: Re: Decoction, tannin, corrections Chris Cooper asks why there is no concern about tannins in decotion boils, when a significant fraction of the mash grist is boiled for 10' to 30' minutes. There is. I've been collecting information on phenols and tannins for some time in hopes of eventually posting a series of phenol notes, but alas I'm still far from ready. The short answer is that the large phenol polymers in malts, like tannins, are expected to complex with the proteins coagulated during the decoction boil. This is like an early hot break. Also note that decocted beers are traditionally subjected to long lager periods during which protein tannin complexes may sediment. A double decoction beer (50C/60C/66C) I made last year with a high percentage of rye malt had several flavor problems including excess phenolics. The problem *might* be that the very undermodified rye malt(and I got that directly from Maryann Gruber at Breiss) did not release sufficient protein into solution to match the tannins released. It would be interesting to know more about the rye malt used by Schreierling in their decoction 'Roggen' rye beer. In any case the traditional decoction methods produce beers without tannin problems, but Chris is correct to be aware of a potential problem here. - -- Dave Burley expresses concern about my practice of pulling virtually all of the GRIST in a single decoction. Greg Noonan's advice in 'Brewing Lager Beers' is that the first decoction is the thickest 1/3rd of the mash volume and the second decoction is the thickest 40% of the mash volume. A rudimentary calculation assuming 8# of grist, 1# of grist displaces about 0.05 gallon, 1# of grist holds about 0.125gal of liquid when sieved or lautered (and I think that is a high estimate), and that thickest mash is no more than .1875 gal/# of liquid - will show that Noonans thickest 1/3rd of the mash will contain more than 50% of the grist. Noonans second 40% volume thickest decoction will take over 60% of the grist. My practice of pulling 100% of the very thickest portion of the grist is about 45% of the mash volume and about 1/3rd of the mash liquid. In practice I've decocted high percentages of raw wheat adjunct with this method and without unusual conversion times. Dave's concern about the enzymes soluability and propensity to stick with the grist portion has some validity. I believe I've addressed the soluability issue previously. The enzymes are bond for relatively longish periods of time in their active hydrolysis sites of their substrates. Note that the Kolbach index indicates that around 40% of all of the nitrogen (a protein proxy) is immediately soluable in modern malts. Also a remarkable fraction of the carbs (~45%) are soluabilized in 30 minutes. These fractions of protein and carbos represents a very large fraction of the *accessible* substrate sites for the free enzymes [note that the amylases can't be bound in the starch granules which are undegraded for example]. Because of this I must again recommend an enzyme soluabilizing first rest of about 30' before pulling the first decoction - regardless of the percentage pulled. This first rest can be a traditional dough-in or combined with saccharifying rest. - -- In a previous post I referred to Kolbach index and 'STN', Scott Murman points out that this is not a widely accepted acronym. By 'STN' I meant the Soluable to Total Nitrogen Ratio which is more commonly written as SN/TN or SNR. This figure is used as a measure of the degree of modification of a malt. - -- In HBD #2384 Charles Rich 'Decoc Redux' there are several incorrect F/C temperature numbers given. I believe that the Fahrenheit numbers are correct, but this is really for Charles to say. Nice post otherwise. later, Steve Alexander . Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 10:49:10 -0500 From: Jim Wallace <jwallace at crocker.com> Subject: Bier De Garde recipe I would like to get some input on other recipes for the Bier De Garde style. There seems to be little info out there on this type of Beer. Jenlain 'Country Ale' brewed about 4-5 yrs ago was one of my favs... But not available now. I would like to take a stab at it. Of particular importance would be : grain; types used ... hops; additions and AAU ... Mash Schedule ... Yeast; commercial and ... bottle captures ... Ferment temps ... Primary, Secondary, Aging Any help appreciated. JIM WALLACE ___ jwallace at crocker.com http://www.crocker.com/~jwallace Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 11:10:35 -0800 From: Charles Rich <CharlesR at saros.com> Subject: Decoction - The King's new clothes? In HBD #2385 Louis Bonham says: >By the same token, our experiment seemed to confirm Steve >Alexander's observation that: >> There are flavor difference between a decocted and >> non-decocted beer, but they are probably more related to phenols and >> early formation of hot break than melanoidins IMO. And more of a >> secondary than a primary factor in flavor. This is a direction I'd really like to see the discussion turn, I agree with Steve Alexander, too, that the flavor difference doesn't hit you over the head, it's more a difference in the way your malt flavor tastes - than a magnification of malt flavor. I started decocting in order to find my way to a quenching beer I was served once in Holland with a very big, forward malt flavor. I think now that that will be developed more from the grain bill than the mashing process. By the way my next experiment with decocting is going to be to cook the bejeezus out of my decoc fraction in a pressure canner after its mash-rests. Tonight I'm going to pressure cook about a half-pound (250g) of Belgium Pils after a dextrinous rest at 156F (69C) and another half-pound after a simple sugar rest at 148F (65C) (both will have a rest at 135F, 57C, first) just to revisit some of questions that George De Piro recently raised and to see how they cook. I expect this to brown way more than I get by hand-stirring, with no risk of scorching, and take less time and trouble. I can fit my old five gallon brew pot in the canner, but I'll just cook these in mason jars. Cheers, Charles Rich (Seattle, USA) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 11:03:30 -0800 From: George_De_Piro at berlex.com (George De Piro) Subject: AHA Membership Benefits/Decoction mashing-extract efficiency Hi all, I really wanted to avoid more AHA Bashing, but their latest mailing is so amusing that I can't contain myself! I just received a letter asking me to renew my AHA membership. Aside from Zymurgy magazine, it says that there are many other membership benefits, which are listed on the enclosed attachment. Well, quelle surprise! There was NOTHING else in the envelope! This letter was signed by Karen Barella, AHA President. I thought she quit? ----------------------------------- It is commonly said that decoction mashing increases mash efficiency by helping to break up starch that is otherwise inaccessible to the amylases. This would definitely be true with undermodified malts, in which much of the starch is trapped within the protein matrix of the grain, but with today's malts I don't find this to be the case. In my experience (I stress that this is only my experience!), my extract efficiencies are very similar whether infusion mashing or decocting. I decoct only to aid in protein removal and increase melanoidin formation. Any small differences I experience in batch-to-batch efficiency are probably due to any of a hundred other variables. I think some of the confusion arises because there is a misunderstanding of what "well modified" malt means. It does not mean that the malt starch has been converted to sugar by the maltster. It means that the young plant was allowed to germinate to a point where the degradation of the protein that gives the endosperm structure was maximized. Without these proteins, starches are more easily solubilized. Decocting is NOT necessary to release them from the grain. This is why low temp protein rests are bad for well-modified malts. The large proteins are already well degraded. Resting between 113F and 122F (45C-50C) will only serve to degrade the desirable middle-molecular weight proteins that the maltster provided. Wouldn't it be wonderful if we could obtain malt analysis specs so that we'd know for sure what we are working with? Do you small pro brewers get spec sheets? Have fun! George De Piro (Nyack, NY) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 11:13:17 -0600 From: Ralph Link <rlink at minet.gov.mb.ca> Subject: North Dakota Brewers Is there anyone in the Grand Forks or Fargo N.D. area who is doing whole grain brewing with a homemade micro brewery or a comercial unit? If there is please respond via e-mail as soon as possible. Thanks Ralph Link Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 10:42:36 -0500 From: jander at wasatch.com Subject: Vitamin C and Oxygen On 1997-03-31 Dan Cole (dcole at roanoke.infi.net) said: dc>Anyone have any information on adding Vitamin C to homebrew to dc>reduce oxidation? It is very popular in the food industry for that dc>very use and would seem to be a great addition to a homebrewer's dc>bag of tricks. dc>Main questions: Will it directly affect the yeast in any way? (kill dc>or supress them) dc>If Vitamin C is good for scavenging oxygen from bottled beer, would dc>it remove the needed oxygen for the yeasts to naturally carbonate dc>the beer? dc>Has anyone tried this, or have the chemical knowledge to explore dc>this? I'm no chemist, Dan (as recently attested) -- indeed, I'm currently under suspicion of adding spermicides to my beer ;). I routinely add 1/2 tsp. of ascorbic acid to my bottling bucket. (Be sure to get ascorbic acid and *not* Vitamin C tablets -- they have other stuff in 'em as well.) No, it doesn't bother the yeasties in the least -- don't forget that they're anaerobic at this point. I learned about ascorbic acid on p. 106 of Pap's NCJOHB. You may wish to refer to it. - Jim Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 09:46:16 -0800 From: RANDY ERICKSON <RANDYE at mid.org> Subject: Kent Dog Hops/Fermenting in Sankey kegs John C Peterson wrote: >>> My prognosis, until I hear from someone who's >>> dog died eating hops fresh or just out of the wort, >>> the subject is dead. This is merely anecdotal evidence, and should not warrant any more weight than any other questionable data, but it _is_ something to consider. My brewing partner and I always composted our spent grains and sweet hops directly to his flower beds. His Golden Retriever was often interested in these yummy smells, and was seen on many occasions sampling the goodies. One day my partner came home from work and found his dog barely conscious, panting like crazy. He rushed the dog to the vet where he was found to have a high fever and was put on some sort of dialysis? to fight a suspected poisoning. They were able to save the dog's life, but he was never even close to his old self. Kind of like Cujo. This occurred two years before this thread first appeared on HBD so we had no clue what had happened at the time. Clearly, we'll never know for sure, but I personally will hesitate to dismiss these claims as unfounded. - ------------------------------ Nathan L. Kanous II asked about Fermenting in Sankey kegs. Works great! Mine was in terrible shape (on the outside) so I carted it over to the coin-op carwash and blew a roll of quarters on the pressure wash. Cleaned all the junk off real nice. I would clean the inside like any other fermenter, i.e. carboy brush, tsp, b-brite, bleach solution, etc. If you use bleach, don't overdo the concentration or the contact time, and rinse well. BTW, that's a #11 stopper you'll need in case you were wondering. Randy in Modesto Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 13:38:19 -0800 From: George_De_Piro at berlex.com (George De Piro) Subject: Malty flavor / RIMS vs Decoction Hello again, Chas talks about caramelization of the wort during a decoction adding to its maltiness. To my palate, caramel does NOT taste malty. Malt flavors can even be masked by excessive caramel, although malt perception might be increased by small amounts of caramel. Beers like Spaten Ur-Maerzen and Optimator are excellent examples of malty beers with little or no caramel notes. Paulaner Oktoberfest tends to be more caramel-like. Compare these beers to each other and you'll see the difference. It's a tough job, I know... ---------------------------- The RIMS vs. Decoction experiment is very interesting. I would love to see it done with a step infusion, too. Chas' suggestion that the RIMS beer may have been perceived as being maltier because of wort caramelization is possible, but as I said above, the two flavors really are quite different. I was wondering if the boiling/hopping parameters were identical, as that could effect hop utilization and thus effect perceived maltiness. As for the RIMS beer being darker, could it be that there was some HSA occurring? That would darken the wort. Or perhaps Chas is right, and the wort was being caramelized a bit. By the way, Dr. Pivo is spelled PIVO, and my name is DE PIRO. I don't know who this "Dr. Piro" is. Perhaps some sort of bizarre hybrid... Have fun! George De Piro (Nyack, NY) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 13:54:39 -0500 (EST) From: Btalk at aol.com Subject: contest announcement Parlor City Brew Off BJCP sanctioned event. Last chance to get points for the NY Brewer of the Year award! April 19, 1997 Binghamton , NY Entry deadline Friday April 11 All recognized styles of beer, mead and cider may be entered. Mead and cider will have separate Best of Show award. Judges and stewards needed! Lunch and breakfast goodies will be provided. Questions? Ask one of us... Organizer, Kurt Nelson, k_nelson at sunybroome.edu Asst Organizer, Roger Haggett, rhaggett at juno.com Head Judge, Bob Talkiewicz, btalk at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 97 13:50:39 est From: paa3983 at dpsc.dla.mil (Mike Spinelli) Subject: Wanted: a couple ft. of 1/2" ID silicon tubing HBDers, Does anyone have and is willing to sell a couple feet of 1/2" inside diameter silicon (or equivelent) tubing for handling boiling wort? Thanks Mike Spinelli Cherry Hill NJ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 14:24:02 -0500 From: "Reed,Randy" <rreed at foxboro.com> Subject: Shorter brew day tip/question I am always trying to find little improvements to make my beer better and my brew day shorter. This past weekend, I tried something new. I have a three tier converted sanke Newtonian (Gravity) system with propane burners. I crush the grain and pour the water the day before brewing. This time I placed a table top, two ("calrod" type unit) portable electric stove on a timer under the mash tun and turned it on high. I set the timer for 5 AM and awoke at 7:30 to find the temperature of the mash water was 140F. Not bad. Heating up to mash in temp was very quick with the help of the propane burner, once the electric unit was removed. The two nice things are that the water is brought close to mash-in temp and there is no need to vent the room, since the electric burners produce no fumes. It shortened my brew day by at least a half. hour. Now a separate question: Is there any general reason we wouldn't fill our mash and sparge tanks from the Hot Water tap? Microbrewies take water from a hot water tank which keeps the water at a high temperature at all times. Am I the only person who has used cold tap water for my brewing water? Any pros/cons? My water heater is a gas unit. - Randy ===================================================== If tuns are outlawed, only outlaws will have tuns... ==================================================== +-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_ + The Local Brewing Company + + ESBITTER at AOL.COM + Surfing the + Randy Reed + Information + BJCP Beer Judge + SuperBikePath + Primary Fermenter + & + South Shore Brew Club + Whirled Wide + (Boston, MA Area - South) + Web Visit SSBC at http://members.aol.com/brewclub/ +-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-+ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 16:05:58 -0500 From: ejb11 at psu.edu (Edward J. Basgall) Subject: Re: alpha and beta amylase On Tue, 25 Mar 1997 Steve Alexander wrote in HBD #2384 re: decoction consensus... >>snip- >>"It's probably worth noting at this point that the important brewing >>enzymes are all part of the water soluable or albumin portion of the >>mash protein. Also that the beta-amylase is concentrated in the >>allurone layer(sub husk) and the outer portion of the endosperm. >>Alpha-amylase is formed in the embryo and concentrated near the >>embryo/endosperm barrier tissues. Both have a great opportunity to >>soluablibize in even moderately crushed malt." -snip > Just a quick point of clartification from an acquaintance who happens to be a barley aleurone researcher here at Penn State Univ. re: the sources of amylase enzymes in malted barley.... > >aleurone is an endosperm tissue > >beta amylase is found in the starchy endosperm - there's a neat story about >a-amylase activating the beta amylase that was laid down as the endosperm >formed by breaking the starch grains it is trapped in. Aleurone produces a >bit of every hydrolytic enzyme knwon to man but beta amylase is not its >major thing. > >The embryo does make some amylase (wimpy). Its the scutellum (cotyledon) >that is the best amylase tissue for the embryo and it is the organ that >makes the endosperm/embryoo border. But if you wnat amylase the aleurone is >the place to be! > >Simon > >========================== >Simon Gilroy >founding member of >SCAB >State College Allied Brewers >or >Scientifically correct aleurone brewers >============================ >Simon Gilroy >Biology Department >PennState University > >www.bio.psu.edu/faculty/gilroy/lab.html >============================ cheers ed basgall SCUM State College Underground Maltsters Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 19:18:17 EST From: petersonj1 at juno.com (John C Peterson) Subject: One for Al K/RE: Water Analysis/Bottling Yeast Al K: >... since then, I've brewed a couple of extract, partial- >boil, dry yeast batches and they were par with my all-grain, liquid yeast >batches. Thanks Al, we (newbies) needed that. Being on this list for four months, I have seen beginners go from a pot, two buckets and some bottles to spending big $ (kegs, fridge, etc.) in an effort to "catch up" with the Joneses. BTW, I'm drinking that Oatmeal Stout you helped me out with last month (stuck fermentation), thanks. It's so creamy and smooth, I don't know if I need a bowl or a mug. AND, I made it with (gasp!) dry yeast. Tom Neary wrote: >I just obtained a Water analysis for my area. Could .... What area? Some of us might live by you and could use this info as well but we don't know where you live. BTW, does anyone have the water analysis for Aurora, CO? I don't have the time to track down the water company (new here) and I'm sure one of you guys have it. My $0.02 question to the masses. I have a beer I'm bottling next week and I want to try something that has been tossed around the HBD a few times lately. I want to add another yeast strain at bottling time to alter the taste. How do I go about this? Do I just add it with the priming sugar and bottle? or add the yeast, let it rest for X amount of time, prime then bottle, or what? Private email okay. John C. Peterson Aurora, Colorado petersonj1 at juno.com Recipes and Newbie Help: http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/6841 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 17:57:21 -0700 (MST) From: Ian Smith <rela!isrs at netcom.com> Subject: MaltMill motor horsepower Does anyone know approximately how fast and how much power is needed to motorize a Maltmill ? I think the speed is 90-120 rpm and the power is 1/8 th HP ? Can anyone set me straight ? Cheers Ian Smith isrs at rela.uucp.netcom.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 18:23:05 -0700 (MST) From: Nathan Moore <moorent at bechtel.Colorado.EDU> Subject: RE: Vitamin C, Oxygen and Homebre / Corriander Dan Cole brought up the idea of adding Vitamin C to homebrew. Although I havn't done this I have seen at least on recipe from the Winners Circle in Zymurgy with vitamin C so I assume it works. However, I would prefer not to throw a vitamin tablet into my beer. This question got me thinking about a comment that I read by Charlie Papazian. He suggested adding 1 tsp of crushed corriander to the mash to fight oxidation. He suggests that corriander is a strong antioxidant (as well as cinnamon) and this small amount would be below the taste threshhold. (Article in Zymurgy summer 1996) So, has anyone tried this. I would like to do an experiment were I add the corriander to half a batch, and nothing to the other half and then splash the beer when bottling a few bottles. My method would be slightly different then Papazians method because I would be adding a hop tea at bottiling instead of in the mash but it should work for a quick and dirty experiment. The problem is due to personal situations I will not be brewing for about 4 months (no dont cry for me, I'll survive somehow) so if someone else wants to try this go for it, otherwise I'll report in the fall. Nathan "if this works I'll be buying corriander in bulk" Moore Denver, CO Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 07:04:32 +0300 (IDT) From: Lenny Garfinkel <lenny at inter.net.il> Subject: hopped cider I'm interested in dry hopping a batch of cider, just out of curiousity. Has anyone tried this? Lenny Garfinkel Leonard Garfinkel, Ph.D. home: Menuha Venahala 16/13 office: Bio-Technology General Rehovot Kiryat Weizmann Israel Rehovot, Israel tel:972-8-9451505 tel:972-8-938-1256 fax:972-8-940-9041 lenny at inter.net.il Return to table of contents