HOMEBREW Digest #2460 Fri 11 July 1997

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  yeast and alcoholic lemonade (Stephen Neate)
  brewing lemonade, spam harvester alert (Dave Whitman)
  Gap Adjustment ("David R. Burley")
  Re:  Yeast from secondary / lagering in keg or secondary (George De Piro)
  Phil's philler cleaning (Randy Ricchi)
  secondary and lagering (BAYEROSPACE)
  water analysis: denied (BAYEROSPACE)
  Re: Sanitation Simplicity Pt 2: Bottles (PickleMan)
  been there, done that (John_E_Schnupp)
  mill gap for wheat (Mike Uchima)
  lagering weizens (Randy Ricchi)
  Re: Zima Brewing (Chris King)
  New Jersey Online- Home Brew Page, etc. (Mark Witherspoon)
  Five Star Products (FivestarAE)
  secondary or lager vessle, barbecue (John Wilkinson)
  Potential Source of Free / Low Cost Equipment ("Hunts, Jeff")
  Ugh/chilling bottles and foil caps/B+T/yeast starters and reuse (korz)
  Atom Masher Web Site has moved (Michael L. Hall)
  Beetles ("Lee Carpenter")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 16:47:14 +0900 From: Stephen Neate <Stephen.Neate at adl.soils.csiro.au> Subject: yeast and alcoholic lemonade Dave Whitman <dwhitman at rohmhaas.com> said >Wasn't there a recent thread about brewing lemon flavored beers? Folks >experimenting with this should probably watch out for premature >flocculation, and rousing the yeast if necessary to get complete >fermentation. I second that warning. Last November I made an alcoholic lemonade, with basically lemon juice, zest and sugar. I used a double quantity of Coopers dry yeast and fermented at 25 C. In a normal beer, the fermentation would have been over in 2-3 days using that temperature and yeast combination. The fermentation never really took off explosively and three weeks later it was still slowly chugging away with a very thick crust of yeast on the bottom of the carboy, despite mixing the yeast into suspension every few days. Part of the problem may have been lack of nutrients, as there is no malt in either my recipe or the one posted recently. Next attempt at that recipe I will measure pH and add nutrients and post the results. Stephen Neate In Adelaide Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 08:19:49 From: Dave Whitman <dwhitman at rohmhaas.com> Subject: brewing lemonade, spam harvester alert In HBD #2459, I wrote: dw>Wasn't there a recent thread about brewing lemon flavored beers? Folks dw>experimenting with this should probably watch out for premature dw>flocculation, and rousing the yeast if necessary to get complete dw>fermentation. Dave Burki then asks: DB>I am planning to try the Three Dogs recipe this weekend. Why do I need to DB>watch out for premature flocculation? Would I be smart to rouse the yeast DB>say on day 2 or 3 then again on day 5 or 6? Anybody tried this before? The abstract I posted suggests that if the pH of your beer/lemonade approaches 4.5, the yeast could prematurely settle out, leaving you with too high a SG. If you bottled, you might find that the beer slowly becomes more and more carbonated. Since lemon juice is acidic, I was concerned that lemon flavored beers might be closer to pH 4.5 than normal beers, and more prone to premature flocculation of the yeast. My suggestion is just to make sure and check the SG before bottling and make sure it's in a reasonable range. If it seems too high, rouse the yeast to try and get it going again. I can't suggest a specific time to rouse; it might not be necessary at all. Rouse if it looks like fermentation has stopped, but SG is higher than you expected, that's all. **** I get a lot of spam, and HBD is one of the only "public" venues where I expose my unmunged email address. It's with a sinking feeling in the pit of my stomach that I'd like to alert HBD members to a security breach that I suspect spammers are using to harvest our email addresses. The HBD archives and HTMLized digest contain the full text of years of HBD, and each issue is chock full of email addresses. I strongly suspect that these are being used by spammers to build their mailing lists. They could do this by specifically downloading back issues and grepping them, but I suspect a more passive route: web crawlers randomly ending up on the HTMLized digest pages and hitting paydirt. I'm not sure what to do about this. Having the searchable, online archives is clearly valuble, as is easy off-digest communication between HBD contributors facilitated by including email addresses. For now, I'm going to mung my address when posting, although the damage may already be done. I apologize for any inconvenience this may cause to members or the digest janitors. Anyone have ideas on how to close this breach without destroying the archives? Dave Whitman dwhitman at EREHWON.rohmhaas.com (remove "EREHWON." from address or email will bounce) "The opinions are those of the author, and not Rohm and Haas Co." Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 08:28:35 -0400 From: "David R. Burley" <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Gap Adjustment Brewsters: Mike Spinelli asks how to mill wheat and other malts with mills with adjustable nips. = Here's how I do it. Close the nip to zero gap , start the mill and open the gap until it just begins to mill a substantial quantity of grain. With = barley malt this will be about 0.070-0.080 inches for various British and American and continental malts, for wheat malts this will be a little narrower = and with rye, even smaller still. The first pass of the grain should be crushed into about 6-8 pieces, and in the case of barley malt, still mostly in the husk and the husks whole. Wheat and rye, of course, have no husks, so this is not a problem. Then close the nip to about 0.060-0.065 in. and = mill again. One more pass to 0.055 in. will give you a "professional" milling equivalent to a six-roll mill. I don't think this fine of a milling is = desirable with either wheat or rye as they have a = tendency to stick during lautering. I only do two millings even with barley malt as it gives me high efficiencies and easy lautering. - ------------------------------------------- Jethro Gump properly calls me to task: >Now, Dave, do I smell condescension? That's not like you! ;-) >No, I guess it's just the assistant brewer's socks! Well, it wasn't intentional, but it sure does look like it. I apologize to anyone who was insulted by the tone. Perhaps 'frustrated' is a better word at unsupported speculation about physico-chemical phenomena ( near and dear to my heart) being displayed as facts. I certainly didn't mean to be disrespectful. Maybe I was out of beer when I wrote it. I did wash my socks in public though. {8^) - ------------------------------------------------------- Keep on brewin' Dave Burley Kinnelon, NJ 07405 103164.3202 at compuserve.com Dave_Burley at compuserve.com = Voice e-mail OK = Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 08:32:19 -0700 From: George_De_Piro at berlex.com (George De Piro) Subject: Re: Yeast from secondary / lagering in keg or secondary Hi all, Marc has used yeast from his secondary, which goes against the advice of Charlie P. and some others. He wonders if this is bad. I often harvest yeast from the secondary for several reasons (such as I forgot to harvest from the primary, or I want yeast without trub, or I decide at the last minute to brew with that yeast, etc.). As long as the beer tastes clean, the yeast should be fine for at least a couple of generations. The only things I can envision being bad about this practice are the increased risk of contamination and the selecting of yeasts that flocculated more poorly than the ones that were in the primary cake. I don't know how much of a real concern this second point is, but I believe that if you did this to a yeast for several generations you could end up with a strain that floccs poorly. Just a guess. Any opinions? ------------------------------ Robert ponders whether or not he can lager his Vienna in a keg, instead of a carboy. It depends on how the beer smells/tastes now. Many German lager yeasts produce a lot of sulphur. Most people prefer to leave the beer in a carboy for several weeks until the sulphur dissipates. If you keg the beer prematurely, the sulphur will be trapped. On the other hand, some German beers, like Spaten Ur-Maerzen, and even their Pils, have a touch of sulphur in the nose that I find pleasant. It seems to accentuate the maltiness of their beers. If you wanted to emulate this, you could keg when the nose is to your liking. It may not do well at contests, though. If you rack to the keg too soon you will also end up with a fair amount of stuff at the bottom, which will make moving the keg and serving clear beer difficult. I would let it fall clear in a carboy, then rack to a keg, carbonate, and lager. Have fun! George De Piro (Nyack, NY) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 10:17:27 -0400 From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi at ccisd.k12.mi.us> Subject: Phil's philler cleaning Does anyone know how to take apart a Phil's Philler for a real thorough cleaning? I always rinse mine (the philler) with hot water after using and sanitize before using, but something (hop particles, trub?) must be stuck in it because the two parts don't freely slide like they should. I hang it up to air dry, so I don't think I have a corrosion build up that's causing the binding. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 10:44 -0600 From: M257876 at sl1001.mdc.com (BAYEROSPACE) Subject: secondary and lagering collective homebrew conscience: robert deneefe wrote: ><snip> now I'm >not sure how to proceed. The krausen has fallen completely but the airlock >is still bubbling away every 10-20 seconds. It's been in the fermenter 9 >days now. Do most of you lager brewers use a secondary, or do you transfer >directly to your lagering vessel (for me, a corny) after fermentation has >almost stopped? I'd like to skip the secondary, but I don't want to end up >with a bunch of junk in my corny, which I will serve from after lagering. what i have done successfully is lager the beer in the primary or secondary, and transfer to the keg when ready to drink. force carbonation is used, so yeast viability is not an issue for the final racking. this method is good if you're wanting to get yeast and other things (tannins, chill haze, etc.) to drop out and not be present in the keg, as long as you're careful when you rack. tip: if you rack to secondary and lager in the secondary, you may want to purge the headspace with co2, particularly if there's not a lot of fermentation going on at that point. this helps to flush out most of the free oxygen in the headspace. tip: you can sanitize (or boil) a piece of aluminum foil and cover the mouth of the carboy during lagering with the foil kept in place with rubber bands. this prevents the dreaded "airlock suck" from happening as the headspace cools and contracts. if active fermentation is still pushing gas through the lock, and you *gradually* (~3-5 deg. f per day) lower the temperature down to lagering, you may not need to worry about the reverse sucking. but watch it. brew hard, mark bayer Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 11:04 -0600 From: M257876 at sl1001.mdc.com (BAYEROSPACE) Subject: water analysis: denied collective homebrew conscience: recently i've moved to southern maryland. in preparation for the upcoming brew season, i've had my wife call the local water dept. to get a lab analysis sent to us. i've done this before in atlanta and st louis, and i've always been able to get this info. for free. the local water dept. has no clue what i'm talking about. they mentioned that they test for nitrates every once in a while, but don't really know what i'm talking about when i've asked for a mineral/hardness/alkalinity analysis. they referred me to the county health dept., who referred me back to the local water dept. they told my wife that they can come out and take a sample from our tap, and do an analysis, but it will cost over a hundred dollars. do i *not* have the right to know what's in my water, for free? this has never been a problem before. suggestions? brew hard, mark bayer Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 09:19:44 -0700 (PDT) From: PickleMan <wrp2 at axe.humboldt.edu> Subject: Re: Sanitation Simplicity Pt 2: Bottles Rob, I am concerned with the conditions of my fridge environment as well. the thought of putting clean bottles in the fridge fully knowing that there is a fan in there and that month-old, moldy bowl of grapes (hey, it was hiding behind the array of condiments that never move) gives me the willies. Here's the solution: Get a 5 gal bucket with a lid, fill with sanitizer sol'n and chill overnight in the fridge. Cold bottle are important for cpbf and soaking them in this chilled bath does the trick. I tried a couple variations on a whim. First, I was in a hurry so I threw ice into the sanitizer sol'n. Then that worked so well the last time I bottled, I threw in a couple 2-liter jugs of frozen water. Didn't like the latter method because the jugs kept tipping over my bottles in the bucket and I couldn't fit as many bottles in. The only warning I have for you the water gets cold. With refridgeraton and ice, it gets in the low 30's. My girlfriend who used to hand me the bottles refuses to stick her hand in the cold water and moved up the bottling line to become the capper. No matter, I take help where I can get since bottling is clearly a process desinged for a 6-armed organism. PickleMan wrp2 at axe.humboldt.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 09:07:59 -0700 From: John_E_Schnupp at amat.com Subject: been there, done that Fellow beerlings, >When it got up to about 45 degrees C, I hooked up all the hoses again >(accidentally squirting brown ale on the carpet when I forgot to shut >the picnic tap--oops!) I poured a pint and took a taste. This happened to me last Christmas. I was hooking up my Christmas Ale on Christmas eve. I left the tap open on the other side of the wall. After connecting the lines to the keg I started some laundry. It wasn't until I noticed the beer seeping under the wall that I realised that something was wrong. 3 gallons into my new finished basement (read carpet, walls). Said a few words, well a lotta, that the SO didn't approve of. BTW, this is not the first time I've ever had a beer/brewing related disaster on Christmas eve. Now I'll only consume (on C.eve) and then I'll only do that in the comfort of my own home. The moral of the story is ALWAYS make sure the tap is closed, vent the pressure in the keg and make sure the CO2 is turned off and the line vented. Connect all the lines and make sure the tap is closed. Turn on the CO2 and check for leaks, make sure the tap is closed. Oh, did I mention, make sure the tap is closed when servicing/changing kegs. Whiskey's too rough, champagne costs too much, vodka puts my mouth in gear. This little refrain, will help me explain, as a matter of fact, I love beer. John Schnupp, N3CNL Colchester, VT '95 XLH 1200 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 11:54:17 -0500 From: Mike Uchima <uchima at mcs.net> Subject: mill gap for wheat paa3983 at dpsc.dla.mil (Mike Spinelli) sez: > > Do those of you w/ adjustable MMs change the roller gap when > crushing wheat malt? > > I've never changed the factory gap and am wondering if I SHOULD > be adjusting it when crushing wheat. Well, I've actually got the fixed gap MM, not the adjustable one. However, I've never had a problem crushing wheat malt in it. The crush looks pretty good, and extraction has been reasonable. FWIW, I use Belgian or German wheat malt, which seems to have slightly larger kernels than the US domestic stuff... The only grain I've ever had a problem with in the fixed MM was unmalted pearled barley. Had to run it through about 3 times... - -- == Mike Uchima == uchima at mcs.net == Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 13:11:01 -0400 From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi at ccisd.k12.mi.us> Subject: lagering weizens Someone mentioned in yesterday's digest that he notices significant improvement in his weizens if they've been stored in the 'fridge for a couple of weeks. I've noticed the same thing, two weeks in the fridge and much improved. I've long understood the benefit of cold storage for lagers, but what is it that changes in a weizen? Anyone? Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 13:56:00 -0400 From: Chris King <king1679 at medic41.com> Subject: Re: Zima Brewing The response about brewing Zima by filtering it and then just adding lemon and lime flavoring is not even close. In an article in New Brewer or one of the other more industry related mags they explained it step by step. There are so many chemicals added (to stop head formation, to stop color extraction etc). Very complicated and even if it was within our reach I would have no interest in brewing it. Chris Edison, NJ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 14:16:15 -0400 From: bveq97 at nestle.he.boeing.com (Mark Witherspoon) Subject: New Jersey Online- Home Brew Page, etc. New Jersey (and else where)... New Jersey Online has a HomeBrew Page... Several of the News people are brewers like us... Good startup articles and a listing of recipies. Located at: http://www.nj.com/features/beer Finally did a batch this last weekend.. Tried to do a different way than before on the mash conversion. 9 lbs 2 row 1 lbs munich 1 lbs crystal (20 l) 1 oz Perle (7.9%) (pellets) 2.5 handfuls of Cascade (whole hops) Nottingham yeast. Mash schedule: 90 degrees F - 40 min (acid rest) 125 - 30 min (acid rest !! ) - got out my Millers book 138 - 30 min (protein rest) 145 - 5 min (first starch conversion) 158 - 45 min (second starch conversion) (I like a malty brew) 168 - 5 min mash out Lautered and sparged to 6.5 gallons.. Gravity was 1.030!!! Got up to boil and put in most of the perle and 2 hand fulls of cascade (don't know the weight, I just took them out of the bag that I grew last year). Boil 1 hour. Last 5 min, last of Perle in. During fast cooling (immersion chiller), put in last of cascade. Decanted off wort from sludge, added water up to 5 gallon mark on fermentor. Gravity.. 1.050!!!!!! It will be going to my secondary tonight.. Ok, what did I do RIGHT??? I have never gotten such a good conversion/boil ever. My best was 1.030 until this batch. New things I did: Munich malt, and higher second starch temp. Mark Witherspoon ** Spammers, beware: ** Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, Sec. 227, any and all unsolicited commercial e-mail sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 (U.S.); e-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 14:17:18 -0400 (EDT) From: FivestarAE at aol.com Subject: Five Star Products Thanks to Randy Erickson for posting his report on testing our cleaning products in HBD#2457. I also want to thank all the HBD'ers who answered my post for volunteers. Thanks to all the great feedback we received we are going to offer a cleaning and sanitation kit designed just for homebrewers. We will introduce this kit at the homebrewers' conference next week and it will be available for shipping in early August. We will be hanging around at the conference, so if any of you are planning to attend please stop by and say hi. We will also have samples of PBW to give out. We are talking to different distributers now to sell this kit to Homebrew shops. For a short while we will sell it direct. Please check out our web site at www. FivestarAF.com/homebrew for more information or E-mail to FivestarAE at AOL.com. Thanks again, Wayne Waananen Five Star Products and Services Commerce City, Colorado Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 97 13:18:52 CDT From: jwilkins at imtn.tpd.dsccc.com (John Wilkinson) Subject: secondary or lager vessle, barbecue Robert DeNeefe asked about using a secondary or going directly to the lagering vessel. I am hardly an expert on lagers but I have made a few. Last weekend I kegged one that had been lagering in the secondary for 4+ months at about 33F. There was considerable sediment in the bottom of the carboy but the beer was clear from the tap. I lagered mine in carboys with airlocks as I thought it would allow any unwanted gasses to escape. I don't know if this is necessary but I think the beer was better than one I lagered in a keg and relieved the pressure on occasionally. There are any number of things that could account for the differences so I don't know that airlock lagering is necessarily better. I do know that I got a lot of sediment in the bottom of the lagering vessel/secondary, though, if that is a concern. Rick Gontarek gave a recipe for barbecue. The ribs prepared that way may be good but they wont be barbecue. Barbecue is prepared in a barbecue pit with a separate firebox and cooked slowly for hours at about 275F. Proper barbecue should have a red ring on the outer edge called a smoke ring. I may be picking nits but I see a lot of reference to food cooked on a grill as barbecue and that is not what it is. John Wilkinson - Grapevine, Texas - jwilkins at imtn.dsccc.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 11:43:08 -0700 From: "Hunts, Jeff" <jhunts at CIWMB.ca.gov> Subject: Potential Source of Free / Low Cost Equipment Fellow H'Brewers: I don't know why I didn't think of this before, musta been the beer... When I'm not homebrewing I manage a program for the State of California called CALMAX -- The California Materials Exchange -- aimed at finding outlets for business waste materials. To provide this free service we produce a quarterly catalog and maintain a website (http://www.ciwmb.ca.gov/mrt/calmax/calmax) that lists materials both wanted and available throughout California. We also maintain a listing of and links to material exchange programs throughout North America. Like that pointy haired boss in Dilbert, I'm sometimes not aware of all the inner workings of my programs (a curse of management), but today I was thumbing through the catalog and found TONS of listings for available plastic buckets and drums. There was another listing for 400 SS Golden Gate 15.5 gal kegs ($10 each) from Eureka, CA, and even a listing for a bottler washing machine -- free to non-profit -- from a microbrewery (Mad River I believe). While it would not be in the spirit of the CALMAX program to accept "wanted" listings from individual homebrewers (since the service is meant for businesses), I invite anyone looking for free or low-cost equipment to visit the CALMAX website, search the materials "available" section (the above mentioned items were under "Containers" and Durable Goods") and see what they might find. For those in other parts of the world, I'm sure the material exchanges we link to in other states and provinces would be great resources as well. This is NOT a commercial posting, but simply info about a free service offered by the State of CA that anyone with imagination could benefit from. Once again, CALMAX is at http://www.ciwmb.ca.gov/mrt/calmax/calmax Good luck and happy brewing. ======== Jeffery L. Hunts jhunts at ciwmb.ca.gov Donner Party Homebrewing "Goes Great With Finger-Food!" Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 15:02:21 -0500 (CDT) From: korz at xnet.com Subject: Ugh/chilling bottles and foil caps/B+T/yeast starters and reuse Dave writes: >on opening the bottles. I had forgotten all about adiabatic expansions >and Carnot Cycles. Thanks for the memories but: = Ugh. It's been 15+ years and just the mention of these words gives me the willies. *** Ken writes: >enzymes to break down the starch. Yeast can't metabolize starch, but >bacteria can, so you're asking for trouble if you're not careful. Adding a Minor correction: Saccharomyces cerevisiae cannot metabolize starch, but other yeasts, e.g. Saccharomyces diastaticus, can. Ken's advice is sound, nonetheless. *** Robert writes: >Rob Kienle asked about chilling bottles when using a CPF. I've only used >my CPF once, but since I was only bottling a few bottles I decided to go >all out and chill them. After sanitizing them, I wrapped each mouth with a >small piece of sanitized aliminum foil. This should have kept any nasties >out. I don't know if chilling is really all that neccessary, but if you >want to chill, a bit of aluminum foil should curtail any fears about bugs. One word of caution: if the foil has made an airtight seal, it will implode when the air in the bottle cools and contracts, so you'll have a hole in your foil. There are those that may say: "Well, if you don't seal the bottle airtight, the cooling air will suck nasties into the bottle!" Practically speaking, however, the amount of dust and debris that gets sucked into your priming vessel during bottling is hundreds of times greater than that which would be sucked into these bottles during cooling. *** Rob writes: > A lady customer recently asked for a "Black and Tan" made with raspberry I'd like to discourage everyone from using the expression "Black and Tan" and in stead use the term "Half and Half." Although I'm a devout anglophile, I'm very much against what the "Black and Tans" did in Ireland. Rent the movie "Michael Collins" if you're unfamiliar. Enough politics... back to beer... *** Marc writes: >Question #1; Is it a good idea to decant off the "spent" wort after each >step (each rise and fall of krausen) and replenish it with new sterile >wort? And if so, what is a good volume of new wort to use? If the yeast is truly all settled, then it would not hurt to pour-off the the spent wort and add more. The rule of thumb on stepping-up depends on who you listen to. German commercial brewers will tell you a 5-fold step-up is ideal (10ml -> 50ml -> 250ml -> 1250ml...). I've read where American commercial brewers say 10-fold is fine. Most homebrewers often do 20-fold step-ups and make great beer, so you can take you pick. If the yeast is not fully settled and you pour off the partially-spent wort, you are selecting for more-flocculent yeast (i.e. throwing away the less-flocculent yeast, which is generally more attenuative). Doing this once or twice will probably not show a measurable or noticeable difference in the finished beer, but when reusing yeast and doing this over and over, you will select for more-flocculent (quite probably less-attenuative) yeast. >Question #2; I read somewhere that you should treat the starter culture >with the same procedures (ie ingredients, temperature, etc.) as you will >use for the actual brew itself. Is this a good procedure? Well, I've read this and also I've read where you are making yeast and not beer, so you want to give the most ideal conditions for reproduction rather than the most ideal conditions for good beer flavour. Personally, I build up my lager starters at around 55 to 60F, which is warmer than I ferment the main wort, but cooler than I keep my ale starters. >does not have as much trub in it and it at least appears to be cleaner, >if you know what I mean. This slurry sample was still relatively active >and I added about 250 ml of fresh sterile wort to it in an Erlenmeyer >flask and topped it with an airlock. It is still active a week later. I >intend to store this in my bank at 45 F. I don't know when I will use >this yeast I know this subject has been addressed recently and at the >risk of beating a dead horse I will ask it anyway. >Question #1; What care and/or maintenance will this culture need and >should I continue to refresh the wort from time to time to keep it >healthy and propagating? If you want to keep the *strain* alive, you are best off making a slant or stab and creating a new one (or five!) every six months. If you want to keep the whole yeast starter viable, you should keep it cold and feed it periodically. I would feed it once a week, but this is what has worked for me, not something I have read in any books. If you need more info on stabs and slants, Brewer's Resource, The Yeast Culture Kit Company (Dan McConnell), and Advanced Brewers Scientific have supplies and instructions. I know the first two have websites. >Question #2; Is it truly better to gather used yeast slurry from the >primary as opposed to the secondary and why? It goes back to the issue of selection. Personally, I use the yeast from the primary when I'm going to make a Barleywine or Doppelbock. The yeast from the secondary will have less break material mixed-in. If you are doing it only one or two generations, it's not going to make a difference regarding selection. However, if you repeatedly reuse the yeast for 5 or 10 batches, yeast from the primary will *tend* to be more flocculent, whereas yeast from the secondary will *tend* to be less flocculent. Al. Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL korz at xnet.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 16:48:22 -0600 From: hall at galt.c3.lanl.gov (Michael L. Hall) Subject: Atom Masher Web Site has moved The new location for the Atom Masher Homebrew Club web site is: http://hbd.org/users/atommash All of the underlying structure is the same as it was before. For example, if you had a link to our "Goodies Page", the new location is: http://hbd.org/users/atommash/goodies.html Please inform me of any broken links. Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring our homebrew club site. (URL: http://www.oeonline.com) -Mike +-------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | Michael L. Hall, Ph.D. <hall at lanl.gov> | | President, Los Alamos Atom Mashers <http://hbd.org/users/atommash> | | Member, AHA Board of Advisors <http://www.beertown.org/aha.html> | +-------------------------------------------------------------------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 18:59:01 -0400 From: "Lee Carpenter" <leec at redrose.net> Subject: Beetles Stir Doctors, Well, the beetles have become board with my hop leaves and have started eating my smaller, immature flowers. I should be able to pick my first wave in a couple of days. They seem to be ignoring the biggest cones (thank God). I just threw beetle bags numbers 5 & 6 into the trash. Already more than all of last year. Next year, NEXT YEAR, my mission in life is to defeat the beetles!! Hopefully, with the help I've received from the brewing clan, I'll be able to give it a go. P.S.- When I saw the beetles eating my flowers I went to the garage and kicked my wife's Honda. That'll show 'em!! LEE "You can't be a real country unless you have a beer and an airline--it helps if you have some kind of football team, or some nuclear weapons, but at the very least you need a beer." -- Frank Zappa Return to table of contents
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