---

	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com


Contents:
  Re: Acronyms was Re: Electrocardiograms (Scott Murman)
  In search of the eternal hangover cure (haafbrau1)
  Macintosh Software for Brewing Calculations (Mike Froehlich)
  Re: Barbeque (John Wilkinson)
  Rice Hulls as filtering aids (Mike Spinelli)
  Re: ATTENTION VINTERS (Kelly Jones)
  Water, EKG, Canning (Paul Niebergall)
  RE: Food for thought /Coronna Mill tips (Brian Pickerill)
  rice hulls; pre- vs. post-boil SG; weizen yeast (Mike Uchima)
  rice hulls/gravity calc/wine/hefe (PickleMan)
  Lagering Temperatures ("Capt. Marc Battreall")
  Yeast Floccing/Farming (eric fouch)
  spam/sulphury smells (korz)
  Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout clone? ("Michael Anson")
  How to do Pumpkin??? ("Mark Rose")
  EKG? (Andy Walsh)
  Grain Malt Freshness (Fred and Sue Nolke)
  Dry Hopping or Hop Drying ("Mark S. Johnston")
  re: water analysis: denied ("Paul Kensler")
  RE: Using Rice hulls as a filter when sparging ("Paul Kensler")


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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 23:02:28 -0700
From: Scott Murman <smurman at best.com>
Subject: Re: Acronyms was Re: Electrocardiograms 

On Fri, 11 Jul 1997 00:21:00 -0700  Jason Henning wrote:
> 
> It took me about a month of reading hbd as a newbie to realize EKG was
> East Kent Goldings. Shouldn't a hb shop owner know this abbrevation?

Just a note for the flailing newbies out there, I have a list of
common acronyms used around here on my web server,
http://www.best.com/~smurman/zymurgy
and there's a listing by Mark Stevens available through the Brewery
web site, but the link was broken when I just tried it (yes, I was
accessing it through the new realbeer server). 

SM


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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 08:50:53 -0400
From: haafbrau1 at juno.com
Subject: In search of the eternal hangover cure

I've got my asbestos shorts on for this one, BUT, has anyone else out in
the collective ever indulged in homebrew a little too much, and knew they
would regret it?  Does anyone out there indulge in horseradish? Two great
tastes that work together, sort of.  OK, here it goes- after imbibing, I
got hungry and made a quickie pizza ( bread, cheese, spaghetti sauce,
toaster oven, blend accordingly).  I decided to add a healthy dose
(oxymoron?) of horseradish to the combo.  The next morning, I felt
amazingly good.  Over time, this was repeated for science's sake, and the
same result occurred.  Of course, the usual disclaimers apply, YMMV, I'm
no doctor (and I don't even play one on TV), and moderation (beer that
is) is the true hang-over cure.  I just figured I'd pass on something
that has been enlightened unto myself. If I've helped but one person see
the light, my job is done.(And since this job pays worse than my night
job, just as well!)

Beer, it does a body good.
Paul Haaf
haafbrau1 at juno.com

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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 08:00:32 -0500
From: Mike Froehlich <MFroehlich at microcraft.com>
Subject: Macintosh Software for Brewing Calculations

Hello Fellow Mac Brewers,

     I know there are a few Mac users out there still.  I have made a
brewing calculation application using Filemaker Pro 3.0. I own it and
want to make it available for FREE to all interested parties. The only
requirement is that you have your own version of Filemaker Pro 3.0 (for
some of you PC users who have Filemaker Pro 3.0 for the PC, this
application should work the same). If you would like the software, email
me at mfroehlich at microcraft.com. 
That is all.




Michael Froehlich
Scientific Programmer
Micro Craft
400 Duley Road
El Segundo, CA 90245
(310)335-1585
mfroehlich at microcraft.com

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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 97 09:01:23 CDT
From: jwilkins at imtn.tpd.dsccc.com (John Wilkinson)
Subject: Re: Barbeque

Rick,

no offense taken so no apology necessary.  I have certainly been called
worse and sometimes, perhaps, with good reason.

John Wilkinson - Grapevine, Texas - jwilkins at imtn.dsccc.com

>I owe John Wilkinson an apology for the below which I inadvertantly
>included in my last post. 
>"I feel that I must respond to a comment made by Joe schmoe in Friday's
>issue." 

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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 97 11:06:48 est
From: paa3983 at dpsc.dla.mil (Mike Spinelli)
Subject: Rice Hulls as filtering aids

HBDers,
Jon Bovard in 2461 asked about experiences with using rice hulls (RHs) as aids
to sparging.

I've used them in all of the last 4 or 5 weizens I've made.  10% of rhe total gr
ain bill seems to work OK.  For the future though, I'm going to double that
amount as my latest 2 weizens were absolute NIGHTMARES to sparge even with 10%
RHs.  2 of the logest brew days in my life!

Mike Spinelli
Cherry Hill NJ


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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 09:43:52 -0700
From: Kelly Jones <kejones at ptdcs2.intel.com>
Subject: Re: ATTENTION VINTERS

On making Blackberry wine wine:

1) using natural yeasts MIGHT work (although there's not nearly as much
natural yeast present on BB's as there is on grapes), and it MIGHT give
you a very interesting/good result, but it's a risk.  Unless you're a
gambler, and don't mind the risk of losing a batch in the hopes of
getting a more 'interesting' ferment, I would recommend using a
purchased yeast.

2) 1056 might work, but it might not ferment to dryness, giving you a
sweet, infection-prone wine.  I recommend a wine yeast, maybe Pasteur
Red, or, if you prefer an off-dry wine, try Cotes de Rhone (sp?), both
available in Red Star dry packages.  If you want REALLY sweet, keep
adding sugar after fermentation slows, until the yeast can't handle any
more.  This will give you a sweet, high-alcohol wine, which will be much
more stable than if you had used an ale yeast.  Whatever you do, if you
plan to keep this wine, be sure to boost the OG to 1.095 or so using
sugar.

I made a great Blackberry Port (not Porter) last year by starting with
blackberries and enough honey to get my OG to 1.100 or so.  After the
ferment was partway finished, I added enough grain neutral spirits to
halt the fermentation.  At the time, it tasted like a bad blackberry
vodka cocktail.  After a year of aging, the alcohol has mellowed
considerably, and this promises to be an outstanding beverage after
another year or so.

Kelly
Hillsboro, OR

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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 12:40:25 -0500
From: Paul Niebergall <pnieb at burnsmcd.com>
Subject:  Water, EKG, Canning

Brewsters,

Mark writes about water quality in Maryland: 

>>recently i've moved to southern maryland.  in preparation for the
upcoming brew season, i've had >>my wife call the local water dept. to
get a lab  analysis sent to us.  i've done this before in atlanta >>and st
louis, and i've always been able to get this info. for free.
<SNIP>

It is federal law that every public water supply system be tested for a
variety of chemical contaminants including organic compounds (solvents,
Pesticides/Herbicides, PCBs, ect.), radionulcides, biological contaminants
(Giardia, Cryptosporidium), and inorganics (Ca, SO3, TDS, ect.).  Call the
safe drinking water hot line at 1-800-426-4791 and they will send you a
copy of the federal drinking water Maximum Contaminant Levels (MCLs)
so you can see what the federal government says is o.k. for our bodies
to ingest.  

>From there you will have to go to the state level. Each state has to
enforce the drinking water standards at levels at least as  stringent as
the federal levels.  Most water suppliers will give you copies of the  test
results, if you can get a hold of the right person (here in Kansas City
they mail a brochure that has a copy of the results to water users.  I
have never requested one, but I get one every year, so I would assume
they mail them to everyone on the system).  If you are having trouble
with your supplier, the hotline listed above can give you the name of the
agency to call for your state.  BTW- Maryland?s is called the Public
Drinking Water Program which is located in Dundalk and can be reached
at (410) 631-3702.  I don?t know if it is a federal or state law that the
supplier must give you the information.  But, since the test analysis has
to be sent to the state, you should be able to get the information there
(again, assuming you can get the right person and it doesn?t  require
evoking the freedom of information act).

Remember this applies to public water supply from any source.  Public
supply is usually defined as X amount of gallons per day serving Y
amount of people (varies from state to state).  If you are on private well
water you are SOL and I suggest you pay for you own analysis.

Jason writes:
>>East Kent Goldings. Shouldn't a hb shop owner know this
abbrevation?
>>BTW, why aren't electrocardiograms called ECGs? Imported
technology and name is my guess.

I seriously doubt any of the HB shops I frequent would immediately
recognize EKG as East Kent Goldings anymore than they would
recognize OTOH, BTW, FWIW, or any of the other abbreviations we use
as short cuts in this digest.

Finally, a question on canning wort:
I don?t want to get into the Botulism thing again, but I do have a valid
question.  How much DMS  is forming in my hot canned wort when it
slowly cools to room temp?  Do I need to worry about it?  I have tried to
cool it quickly by showering with cool water, but the canning jars break.

FWIW- I really don?t  understand the canning/Botulism debate anyway. 
Don?t you people have pressure cookers?  How do you can your excess
tomatoes in the fall or practice sterile yeast propagation techniques
without one?

Nazdrowie
(sorry for the BW)

Paul Niebergall
(pnieb at burnsmcd.com)


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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 13:13:48 -0500
From: 00bkpickeril at bsuvc.bsu.edu (Brian Pickerill)
Subject: RE: Food for thought /Coronna Mill tips

Jethro posted a clip from the "Des Moines Register":

>>"Pitcher beer served from a CO2 delivery system will cause headaches
>>if any of the CO2 leaks into the beer."

If they use a CO delivery system, maybe...  :)

- -----

"John L. Heubel" <jlheubel at wf.net> wrote in about using a Corona mill.  He
has enlarged the hopper and tried using a drill but went back to manual
cranking.

Like John, I kinda enjoy the cranking, but I find that the hopper is OK,
too.  The cranking assures that my homebrew has a little sweat in it.  This
makes it fabulously unique and impossible to clone.  Really, I enjoy this
he-man aspect. With the hopper, I finally realized that, since I'm getting
such a workout, I kinda need a break every couple of minutes anyhow, so
that original high hopper model begins to make sense.  You have now
completed the circle.  Have a homebrew, grasshopper.  Also, no worries
about mill explosions, I just can't crank that fast.

I only wonder why no one has yet posted the Gillian and the professor
approach--you know, bicycle powered. No doubt the professor would be a hell
of a homebrewer!  Care for a coconut ale?

- --Brian Pickerill, Muncie Malt Mashers, Muncie IN




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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 13:13:57 -0500
From: Mike Uchima <uchima at mcs.net>
Subject: rice hulls; pre- vs. post-boil SG; weizen yeast

Jon Bovard <j.bovard at student.qut.edu.au> wrote:
> Ive heard it whispered in the wind that when using a mash high in
> proportions of raw flakes, or wheat you can use 500g (pound or so)
> of rice hulls as a substitute for apparent lack of barley husks. 
> In this way these create a sparge filter whilst not imparting any 
> flavour/colour or content to the finished beer.
> Has anyone used this technique and how effective is it. ie is 
> it worth it? effective?

I've done this exactly once -- brewed a 100% wheat hefeweizen by adding
a few handfuls of rice hulls to the mash prior to sparging.

The sparge was uneventful (i.e. didn't get stuck), and extraction seemed
reasonable. Unfortunately, the batch ended up with a weird off flavor
(kind of sour/solventy, I guess). I don't *think* the off flavor was due
to the rice hulls -- I suspect a yeast nutrition or contamination
problem. Anyone else tried to brew a 100% wheat beer?

crablesc at email.uc.edu sez:
>     Is there a way to predict the post boil gravity (opening gravity)
> of 6.5 gallons of preboiled wort? In other words, after your sparge 
> and before you start the boil, can you take a hydrometer reading and 
> come close to predicting the O.G.?

Yep, for a fixed amount of sugar, the gravity should be pretty much
inversely proportional to the volume of wort. In other words, if you
start with 6.5 gallons and boil down to 5, you can just multiply your
pre-boil gravity (in points) by 6.5/5 to get an estimate of the
post-boil gravity. E.g. if your pre-boil gravity is 1.040, your
post-boil gravity should be around 1.052, because 40 x (6.5/5) = 52.

Make sure you stir the wort (to get the first and last runnings well
mixed) before taking the hydrometer sample, and cool the sample before
taking the reading (or use the temperature correction tables). The
temperature of your wort right after sparging (130F+) will be high
enough to throw the reading *way* off.

Mark Rodziewicz <markrodz at wwa.com> wrote:
> I've just racked my current batch of brew (a traditional hefe weizen) 
> to the secondary after four days.  It went from a 1.053 to 1.023 in 
> this time.  However, upon tasting it, it doesn't seem to have any of 
> the characterisitics of a true hefe.  I used the Wyeast Weihenstephan 
> (sp?) # 3068.  It has fermented anywhere between 66 and 70 degrees F.  
> Can anybody describe what it should taste, smell and look like at this
> point.  I'm worried that this may be another "drainer".  Thanks.....

I had a similar problem with a couple of weizens I brewed last winter.
Although I have no hard proof, I sorta suspect the yeast. I'd had really
good luck with the 3068 on prior batches, but the last two times I've
used it, there has been little/no of the clove/banana thing going on. I
wouldn't really call those batches "drainers"... more like
American-style wheat ales (i.e. somewhat bland, compared to a
German-style hefeweizen).

Something you might want to try next time: Culture some yeast from a
bottle of Schneider Weisse. Schneider is supposedly one of the few
producers of the style that still bottle with the fermentation yeast
(others use a different bottling strain). I did this on my last weizen,
and it came out very nice.

- -- 
== Mike Uchima == uchima at mcs.net ==


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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 11:42:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: PickleMan <wrp2 at axe.humboldt.edu>
Subject: rice hulls/gravity calc/wine/hefe

My thoughts on some recent posts:
> Subject: Using Rice hulls as a filter when sparging.
> Has anyone used this technique and how effective is it. ie is it worth it?
> effective?
	I haven't figured out if these work or not.  Everytime I add rice
hulls to my mash(thrown in before the strike water and with the grrain on
top of them) they end up floating to the top as soon as I stir the mash.
I thought about presoaking them, but the whole hour of presoaking before a
mash did nothing.  How do people incorporate these hulls into the mash?


> Subject: Gravity of wort
> 
>     Is there a way to predict the post boil gravity (opening gravity)of 6.5 
> gallons of preboiled wort? In other words, after your sparge and before you 
> start the boil, can you take a hydrometer reading and come close to 
> predicting the O.G.?
> Scott Crable
Scott,
	You can do this.  It is outlined in TCJOHB by Papazian.
Basically, you take the gravity at 6.5 gals and multiply it by 6.5 to get
the gravity points.  Then, you divide this number by the gallons you will 
finish at (likey 5 gal) and that will give you the specific gravity at
that volume.  

 Subject: ATTENTION VINTERS
> 
> Hello,
> The blackberries are soon to be ripe again. I will be picking about 15 
> pounds for some blackberry wine I plan on making. I have a couple of 
> Questions:
>        *Should I try the natural yeast on the berries to ferment or     
>         would it be better to use, say Wyeast 1056?
	I have just started a blackberry mead that looks promising.  I
used Wyeast sweet mead yeast and made a .5 gallon starter.  It's begun a
vigorous fermentation and smells lovely.  Natural yeast is risking
infection if you ask me.


> From: Mark Rodziewicz <markrodz at wwa.com>
> Subject: Hefe Weizen Question
> characterisitics of a true hefe.  I used the Wyeast Weihenstephan (sp?)
> # 3068.  It has fermented anywhere between 66 and 70 degrees F.  Can
	You may try raising the fermentation temp to get the banana/clove
notes found in a traditional Hefe.  My Hefe lacked these characters as
well when I fermented at 65* w/ this yeast.  However, if you must dump it,
please send it to me in 22 bottles and I will make sure it gets a proper
disposal.


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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 14:55:53 -0400
From: "Capt. Marc Battreall" <batman at reefnet.com>
Subject: Lagering Temperatures

Hello All,

I was wondering if I was to put my Corny keg in my deep freezer (which
maintains a temperature of 20 F) to lager a California Common if it will
be to cold and freeze the beer.  The alcohol level of the beer was 4.7 
percent by volume at the completion of it's fermentation. 
If anyone has any experience with this practice I would appreciate it if
they shared it with me.
Thanks,
Marc Battreall

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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 15:14:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: eric fouch <S=fouch%G=eric%DDA=ID=STC021.efouch%Steelcase-Inc at mcimail.com>
Subject: Yeast Floccing/Farming


Date: Monday, 14 July 1997 3:06pm ET
To: STC012.HOMEBRE3 at STC010.SNADS
From: Eric.Fouch at STC001
Subject: Yeast Floccing/Farming
In-Reply-To: The letter of Monday, 14 July 1997 2:54am ET
 
HBD-
Tired of hearing 'bout lemonade brews yet?  Oh, well..
It's been about a week since I added the 5 cans lemonade concentrate, and
there isn't much activity...until I shake it up.  Then the airlock just boils]
It continues to bubble 'till I stop shaking, then it settles down relatively
quickly.
Is this the dreaded flocced yeast syndrome, or the dreaded super saturated
"wort" syndrome?
I guess I'll wait for bottling 'till the bubbling is no longer inducible.
Hint- I should have used the regular lemonade conc. instead of the pink stuff-
the color is somewhere between bathwater gray and dog dish water brown.
 
 
Speaking of floccing yeast, for a recent batch, I used yeast from some bottled
dregs:  After bottling a batch, I lazily bottled up the dregs from the
secondary and capped the bottle and put in the 'fridge.  Several months later,
I got out the bottle (lots of trub) and poured it into a quart mason jar,
added sterilized water, and shook it up.  After letting it settle for about an
hour (it was a Widmer Bros. Hefewiezen culture) I decanted the top layer
into a quart starter.  I figured the dead, bad yeast would settle out, and the
good live yeast would suspend longer.  The starter took off well, smelled
good, and made a good batch of beer.
I realize I could be selecting low floc yeast, but this strain is relatively
low floc anyway.
Would this be a good technique for separating live from dead yeast in a stored
yeast cake (washed or bottled)?
I also recently stored some washed yeast (three rinses with sterilized water)
in Pedialyte bottles (4ozs) by dissolving two Tbs of Malto Dextrin in a cup of
water, boiling, cooling, and putting this solution on top of the washed yeast
cakes in the 4 oz bottles.  I am hoping the increased concentration of the
storage fluid will help maintain yeast cell integrity.  Nome sayn?
 
Eric Fouch
efouch at steelcase.com
Bent Dick YactoBrewery
Home of Big Ol' Bad Ass Bob, the Barleywine
Kentwood, MI
 
Hopfen und Malz, Gott Erhalt'f]


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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 14:49:16 -0500 (CDT)
From: korz at xnet.com
Subject: spam/sulphury smells

Dave writes:
>For now, I'm going to mung my address when posting, although the damage may
>already be done.  I apologize for any inconvenience this may cause to
>members or the digest janitors.  Anyone have ideas on how to close this
>breach without destroying the archives? 
>Dave Whitman     dwhitman at EREHWON.rohmhaas.com   
>(remove "EREHWON." from address or email will bounce)

Alas, Dave, your posting address in the header was still the correct one
and this is what the harvesters would look for, anyway.

On this subject, I have to say that I have not seen a marked increase
in the amount of spam I get at either of my email addresses (older HBD
posts were from the other address), so I don't think that harvesters
are at work on the HBD.  I have posted once or twice to some newsgroups in the
past... I believe that these may be the source of the spam.  I get about
one piece of spam at each address per week, and it's not from the same
spammers (usually *different* "get rich quick" bozos).  Another place you
should look is if you have a "mailto:" in your web page.  I have heard of
harvesters looking for those in posts and websites.

What I do to combat spam is to write to "root," "abuse," and "admin"
at the domain of the spammer asking the spammer's account to be terminated.
About half the time I get some kind of response saying that the spammer
has been stopped.  Mind you, I don't bother when the address is from
something like bob at marketing.com, which would be a waste.  It works
particularly well when someone is mailing from aol.com or many of the
other big ISPs because they almost always have a no spamming policy.

Mind you, this is *not* what I do when some homebrew shop owner posts
an ad to the HBD... no, I politely email privately, telling them that
their post was inappropriate.  Usually, they are understanding.

I'm told that you want to *NOT* respond to those spam messages that say
"reply to this email if you don't want to receive further ads."  I'm told
most of these will get you *more* not less spam.  I'm working on putting
together a list of "Security and Spam Dos and Don'ts" for a friend who
has just merged onto the Info Superhighway, so please send me suggestions.

For example, I have Java and JavaScript disabled unless I'm at a trusted
site and I reject all cookies (simply because I don't want someone
tracking my travels through cyberspace).  I'm planning to put together a
page on my website on this topic.

***
George writes:
>     Robert ponders whether or not he can lager his Vienna in a keg, 
>     instead of a carboy.  It depends on how the beer smells/tastes now.  
>     Many German lager yeasts produce a lot of sulphur.  Most people prefer 
>     to leave the beer in a carboy for several weeks until the sulphur 
>     dissipates.  If you keg the beer prematurely, the sulphur will be 
>     trapped.

I don't think that's a problem.  I recently read that the yeast will
convert some of these sulphury compounds to sulphates, therefore removing
the aroma.  As a practical datapoint, I once brewed a Traditional Bock
using Wyeast Munich Lager yeast (#2308) which smelled very strongly
like home perm solution at bottling.  It had been fermented cool and
lagered in a secondary for something like 8 weeks at 40 or 45F.  I kept
the bottles at 40F tasted one every four weeks or so.  After one, two,
and three months, it was still home perm solution.  After four months,
the sulphury smell disappeared and the beer won several ribbons at
various competitions.  Finally, when you think about it, there certainly
is some CO2-scrubbing during fermentation, when the airlock is active,
but during lagering, we're lucky to get one bubble every hour, so I
don't think that any aroma compounds are escaping to the atmosphere.
(I know I've made this mistake before myself, theorising about hop aroma).


Al.

Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL
korz at xnet.com


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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 18:15:49 +0000
From: "Michael Anson" <Mike-Anson at nih.gov>
Subject: Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout clone?

	I've finally decided to cross the line from beer drinker 
to beer brewer, and am looking for help. Why did I decide 
to cross the line? Because my favorite beer, Brooklyn Black
Chocolate Stout, is *seasonal!* I can't buy it year round.
Argh!
	Here's my question: Does anyone know of an 
extract + specialty grain based recipe for a Brooklyn Black 
Chocolate Stout clone? I've tried (tasted, not made) 
several Imperial Stouts, and while most have the 
deep-roasted flavor you'd expect, nothing has matched the 
complexity of the BBCS. So, I can't use just any old 
Imperial Stout recipe.
	Any suggestions?

Thanks!
Mike Anson (RAnson1 at alumni.umbc.edu)

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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 19:15:37 -0400
From: "Mark Rose" <mrose at visi.net>
Subject: How to do Pumpkin???

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BC908A.4FE62260
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Brewmasters,
I am going to do a Holiday Celebration Ale in a couple weeks.  It is a =
fairly basic  all-grain recipe (two-row 9lbs, CaraVienne 1lb, Munich =
1lb, Honey 1lb, Wheat 0.5lb, & Special-B 0.25lb for a 1.068OG with 1056 =
yeast; hopping with Centennial and Mt Hood for 35 IBUs).  I am also =
planning on adding a boat load of spices like allspice, ginger, =
cinnamon, cloves, and orange rinds (Victory Beer Recipe book). =20
The question is:
I am thinking about adding a 16 oz can of Spiced Pumpkin from the local =
supermarket, but I have no idea when to add it (mash, boil, secondary).  =
I do not know where to get actual pumkins this time of year - so I =
assume the canned stuff is the only option this time of year. =20
Does anyone have advice on the recipe and how best to do this pumkin =
addition?  Would it be a worthwhile addition to those of you that have =
done it?
Please email your responses to me and I will post a compilation of all =
of them.  Thanks for your advice!!
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Mark E. Rose
Langley AFB, VA
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D


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<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"Trident 4.71.0544.0"' name=3DGENERATOR>

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<P>Brewmasters,

<P>I am going to do a Holiday Celebration Ale in a couple weeks.  It is =
a fairly=20
basic  all-grain recipe (two-row 9lbs, CaraVienne 1lb, Munich 1lb, Honey =
1lb,=20
Wheat 0.5lb, &amp; Special-B 0.25lb for a 1.068OG with 1056 yeast; =
hopping with=20
Centennial and Mt Hood for 35 IBUs).  I am also planning on adding a =
boat load=20
of spices like allspice, ginger, cinnamon, cloves, and orange rinds =
(Victory=20
Beer Recipe book). =20

<P>The question is:

<P>I am thinking about adding a 16 oz can of Spiced Pumpkin from the =
local=20
supermarket, but I have no idea when to add it (mash, boil, secondary).  =
I do=20
not know where to get actual pumkins this time of year - so I assume the =
canned=20
stuff is the only option this time of year. =20

<P>Does anyone have advice on the recipe and how best to do this pumkin=20
addition?  Would it be a worthwhile addition to those of you that have =
done it?

<P>Please email your responses to me and I will post a compilation of =
all of=20
them.  Thanks for your advice!!

<P>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<BR>
Mark E. Rose<BR>
Langley AFB, VA<BR>
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D</P>

</BODY></HTML>

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Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 10:42:20 -0700
From: Andy Walsh <awalsh at crl.com.au>
Subject: EKG?

Jason Henning comments:

>BTW, why aren't electrocardiograms called ECGs? Imported technology and
>name is my guess.

Other way around.
The rest of the world has always referred to electrocardiograms as ECGs
(obviously to avoid confusion with East Kent Goldings!). Only North
Americans refer to them as EKGs.

Several years ago the American Heart Association (AHA) officially
changed the acronym to be used in the US from EKG to ECG to toe the line
with the rest of the world. Imagine the confusion caused in US cardiac
society when doctors received nice fresh hops, when asking for EKGs from
their English counterparts. One of them *had* to change!

So officially electrocardiograms are now ECGs in the USA, but American
doctors commonly still refer to them as EKGs, due to habit.

Sorry for the bandwidth,
Andy.

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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 18:00:56 -0800
From: Fred and Sue Nolke <fnolkepp at corecom.net>
Subject: Grain Malt Freshness

I'll bet I'm not the only one with some specialty malt hanging around
from summer before last, and some munich from last summer.  The
apparantly not so obvious question is, how long does it produce roughly
the same quality beer as it did when first purchased.  There must be a
million variables on both the flavor end, and in the possible storage
conditions and types of malt and age when purchased.  Assume 68F and 50%
or less humidity.  Anyone got any literature citations?

Fred Nolke

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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 22:28:04 -0400
From: "Mark S. Johnston" <msjohnst at talon.net>
Subject: Dry Hopping or Hop Drying

	I just picked the first round of Fuggles from around my deck. I left
about half the cones to mature another week or so. My question is:
	What is the best way to dry the flowers?
	Last year I tried the "warm oven" method and promptly burned my whole
(small) harvest. I've previously tried laying them out on a flat surface
for a few days, but that seemed ineffective.
	I have heard that it is not advisable to brew with hops straight off the
vine. I can't figure why. I really am tempted to test a new IPA recipe,
and use these for dry hopping.
	Any comments are welcome.

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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 21:59:50 +0000
From: "Paul Kensler" <Paul.Kensler at ix.netcom.com>
Subject: re: water analysis: denied

For what its worth, I received a water analysis from my local water 
department (Plano, TX) after a single 2-minute phone call.  It was 
faxed over less than an hour after the call.

My point being, after hearing so many similar horror stories about 
the difficulty of obtaining a water analysis I was pleasantly 
surprised to find that some departments are cooperative.  My guess 
is, its a crap shoot but it sure won't hurt to ask.

PK

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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 21:59:50 +0000
From: "Paul Kensler" <Paul.Kensler at ix.netcom.com>
Subject: RE: Using Rice hulls as a filter when sparging

Jon Bovard asked about using rice hulls as a filter aid when 
sparging batches with high proportions of huskless grains.

Jon,
I regularly make wit beers, with 50% of the grist being raw unmalted 
wheat flakes.  I use less than a pound of rice hull for each 
5-gallon batch - half of this is mixed in with the mash at mashout, 
the other half is spread as a layer over my false bottom in my lauter 
tun (I have separate mash and lauter tuns).  In doing so, I have 
NEVER had a stuck runoff - in fact, my runoffs with this recipe are 
faster than recipes using only barley malt -- the rice hulls provide 
an excellent source of hard filter material.  The local homebrew 
store sells it for $1 / lb -- I have been using less each batch due 
to my good results.  Before using, I always rinse the dust off the 
hulls - this also helps them mix well, since they seem to be slightly 
hydrophobic.  As for taste, if you make a hot "tea" with rinsed 
hulls, you will notice almost no flavor or color contribution.

Hope this helps -- good luck,
Paul Kensler

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