HOMEBREW Digest #2728 Mon 01 June 1998

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Yo! AOL HBD subscibers! Read THIS!!! (Homebrew Digest)
  Grain Mills (Mike & Kim Walker)
  Haafbrau1:  yeast question (haafbrau1)
  Weizen/protein rest (Randy Ricchi)
  porter, hops, ramblings (Joseph.M.Labeck at brew.oeonline.com, "Jr.")
  Re:Wheat Beer - 120F rest or not? (Zurekbrau)
  Re: spent grains (Jeff Renner)
  Cutting Time Out of the Brew Session (Kyle Druey)
  RE: mash/sparge one day, boil the next ("Dr. Pivo")
  Suggestions for Schwartzbier grain bill ("Tidmarsh Major")
  Re; Bitter sweet (Kevin TenBrink)
  open fermentation (Breadnale)
  Re: Flat False Bottoms ("Ludwig's")
  HopsDirect Packaging (Loren Crow)
  accurate pH, finally ? ("Frederick L. Pauly")
  Oak chips ("David Johnson")
  Re: Butt Lube ("Charles L. Ehlers")
  LaChouffe Yeast Clone ? ("Frederick L. Pauly")
  mash/sparge one day, boil the next, (AND pitch the next) (Jack Schmidling)
  Follow-up on Pin-lock Keg Poppets (Randy Shreve)
  emu export lager recipe? (Jon Sandlin)
  The Jethro Report ("Rob Moline")
  Natural Gas Fired Outdoor Cookers ("Timothy A. Stelljes")

BURP's Spirit of Free Beer competition is June 6-7 and entry information is available by contacting Jay Adams (adams at burp.org). NOTE NEW HOMEBREW ADDRESS: hbd.org Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org (Articles are published in the order they are received.) If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org. **SUBSCRIBE AND UNSUBSCRIBE REQUESTS MUST BE SENT FROM THE E-MAIL **ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!! IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, the autoresponder and the SUBSCRIBE/UNSUBSCRIBE commands will fail! For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to brewery at hbd.org Homebrew Digest Information on the Web: http://hbd.org Requests for back issues will be ignored. Back issues are available via: Anonymous ftp from... ftp://hbd.org/pub/hbd/digests ftp://ftp.stanford.edu/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer AFS users can find it under... /afs/ir.stanford.edu/ftp/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer JANITORS on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 31 May 1998 09:25:19 -0400 (EDT) From: Homebrew Digest <hbd at brew.oeonline.com> Subject: Yo! AOL HBD subscibers! Read THIS!!! Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... A quick NOTE to those readers on AOL who are considering subscribing or becoming SPAM free: If you've set your mail filters to not allow mail from outside of AOL, the Digest WILL NOT reach you, and I'll be dealing with the resulting error messages from AOL. Please consider unsubscribing from the Digest before setting filters to save me the search and destroy effort that results if you don't. THANKS! Cheers! The Home Brew Digest Janitorial Staff Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 21:27:26 -0700 From: Mike & Kim Walker <azale at uswest.net> Subject: Grain Mills Greetings, At the risk of starting up the dreaded mill thread again, I am looking for some feedback from somebody who uses the BrewTek mill. Specifically I would like to know about the roller diameter, gap adjustability, quality of crush, and overall impression of this mill. Thanks Mike Walker Mesa, AZ Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 May 1998 07:50:22 -0400 From: haafbrau1 at juno.com Subject: Haafbrau1: yeast question I'm reposting this in hopes of a response. Since I only brew ales, I don't think using the bottom sludge would be a smart move. What is the collective's opinion on drawing 1-2 liters of actively fermenting wort as a starter for a new batch? Would this work well? The theory sounds good anyway. Private e-mail OK. Once again my apologies for the advert tacked onto this post, I have no control over it. Brewers make wort, yeast make beer. Paul Haaf haafbrau1 at juno.com - --------- End forwarded message ---------- _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 May 1998 08:20:03 -0400 From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi at ccisd.k12.mi.us> Subject: Weizen/protein rest Dave Humes asked whether a protein rest was needed with highly modified wheat malt. Here's my own two cents. I do a step infusion with 60% German Wheat & 40% German Pils (although I have used Briess 2-row also). I like to use a 10-15 min. rest at 105-111 deg.F., not because I think it helps with the clove character (although it might), but because I read Fix's comments on how it can help improve the lauter run-off. I tried it, and it seems to do so. I used to do an extended (1 hr) protein rest (upper 120's), thinking that it was needed since I wasn't doing a traditional decoction with so much wheat. I now do 25 - 30 minutes at 129-30 deg.F.,and get excellent head retention. I don't know how it would work without any protein rest. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 May 1998 10:27:15 +0800 From: Joseph.M.Labeck at brew.oeonline.com, "Jr." <joe-sysop at cyberbury.net> Subject: porter, hops, ramblings Greetings, Folks; I want to thank everyone who replied a few weeks ago to my post about my porter. I had added WAY too much molasses. The advice was unanimus, and agreed with my own instincts; wait and see. I tried some recently, and it has improved a lot. A little while longer, and it might be a very good beer. I was also gratified that you were nice enough to share some of your own stoopid mistakes. I've planted hops, which are now about 4 inches high. When I ordered them, I asked if they knew the variety, and they answered "Oregon Golden Nuggett". Anyone familiar with this? I imagine it's the Nuggett variety, but I wonder what the "Oregon Golden" means. Finally, you can see from my sig that I have almost as much fun naming my beers as brewing them. I've never been able to come up with a name for my mild ale, and I'd like the collective's help. It's just a basic mild ale recipe, to which I add some flavor hops (Fuggles or Willamette) at the end of the boil. Thanks, Joe Labeck Joe's Beer Cuppa Joe Stout Uncle Bill's Porter Nut 'n' Tuit Brown Ale Nothing Special Bitters Un-named Mild Ale Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 May 1998 10:28:44 EDT From: Zurekbrau at aol.com Subject: Re:Wheat Beer - 120F rest or not? Here is my reply to Dave Humes about doing a protien rest for wheat beer >I'm getting ready to do a Bavarian wheat beer and I'm wondering about >whether I should use a protein rest or not. I'm planning on using 50-60% >wheat in the recipe (probably Briess), about 5-10% German Munich malt, and >the balance Briess two-row pale brewers malt. It seems to me that many of >the desirable characteristics of wheat would be comprimised by a protein >rest if the wheat malt is already highly modified. I want a fairly >significant body, very good foam formation and stability, and I don't care >if it is cloudy. This is just one data point but I made a wheat beer last september and used 50% malted wheat and 50% 6 row malt. I did a 15 min rest at 122 degress and 15 min at 135 degress. The beer was the most clear beer I ever made from all grain. It also had very little foam formation. When I make this again I will not use any protein rests. Rich Zurek Carpentersville IL North West of Chicago Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 May 1998 10:15:53 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: spent grains Jim Booth <kbooth at scnc.waverly.k12.mi.us> wrote: >I've used spent brewing grains in baking by drying and grinding in a >coffee bean mill. It does reduce the volume on the loaf and probably >should be added at the end of kneading so the sharp fibers doesn't cut >the gluten that is being developed. It shouldn't matter when you add them as far as developing gluten "fibers." The gluten cross linking that occurs during kneading (and fermentation of the dough, as well) is on a molecular scale. The cutting of gluten by the grain particles is on a macro scale and is a matter of the piercing of CO2 bubbles. If you add the grains late,m there is the danger of their absorbing water from the dough and making it too stiff, so I'd suggest adding them early. If you use the sponge method I posted earlier this week, add them then so they become fully rehydreated. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 May 1998 20:15:20 -0700 From: Kyle Druey <druey at ibm.net> Subject: Cutting Time Out of the Brew Session I have developed some brewing methods over the last several years to help shave time off the long brew day. It used to take me 7 or 8 hours to perform a 5 gallon, all grain, step mashed brew, now I can do it in 4.5 to 6 hours depending on the mashing process. Here are the biggest time savers: 1) Setup the night before. I setup up my RIMS, measure the gross water volume, and crush the grain the night before brew day. The yeast starter has been prepared 1 to 2 weeks before. 2) Preheat the mash water. I come home at lunch and heat up the 7 to 8 gallons of water to about 130 to 140 F. This allows me to dough in right when I walk through the door at 5 after work. The dough in strike temp is in the range of 95-110 F, which is perfect for my pseudo acid rest (this is not really an acid rest, but a beta glucan rest, and is when I also adjust the mash pH to 5.4-5.6). 3) Skip the protein rest if possible. I now only infrequently use a protein rest, this cuts 20 to 40 minutes out of the mash. If I decide to do a decoction here, I will only pull one 5/9 decoct and let is rest for 20' at 150, then boil for 30'. Doing a single decoct shaves a couple of hour off of the mashing process. 4) Warpspeed Sparge. I open up my 1/2" ball valve all the way and let the mash tun drain as fast as possible. I do the same with the sparge water to the mash tun, open up the feed valve all the way. I can sparge this way in 10'-15', cutting about 40'-50' out of the sparging process. Doing this causes me to lose about 1 point of extraction, and I now get 27-28 points per pound per gallon. I think that RIMS gives me the ability to sparge very quickly like this without significantly impacting my extraction rates. 5) Start the Boil while collecting the sweet wort. I start heating up for the boil just as soon as the sparge starts collecting into the boiler. I use a 3500W element in my boiler which allows me to heat up to boiling temps from sparge temps in 10'-15'. I am starting to boil just as the last runnings are draining out of the mash tun. This has cut 30'-45' out of the brew day. 6) Use as short a boil as possible. I now boil for 60' for all my beers. I make sure that I can hit my preboil volumes with good consistent accuracy so that I do not have an excess of wort/water to boil off in order to hit my post boil extract design volume. This helps to shave a possible 15'-30'. Using these techniques I can brew a single step sacch rest beer in 4.5 hours, clean up is included in this time as well! In 6 hours I can do a single decoction brew. I used to brew all day on saturdays, much to my wife's displeasure. Now I can brew on weeknights after work, and usually be done my 10:00 pm to catch sports center and have a homebrew before bed. Anyone else please add your time saving ideas, maybe I can get it down to less than 3 hours! Kyle Druey Bakersfield, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 May 1998 18:49:55 +0000 From: "Dr. Pivo" <irv at wireworks.se> Subject: RE: mash/sparge one day, boil the next Just thought I might put in another vote for, and help alleviate any worries for anyone planning to do a "broken brewing day". It has been my favourite way to brew for about 15 years. I previously mashed overnight (noticed no difference there) but more commonly mash and sparge one day and boil the next. I've noticed no inherent differences between doing it those ways, or doing it all in one go. The advantages for me are: 1. It fits very nicely in with an end of a work period. Mash and sparge in the evening, boil on my following day off, and not have to use the whole day for brewing. 2. I'm not sure of the accepted term, but I do what I think is referred here to as a "batch sparge". I call it a "dilution sparge" or "infusion sparge", where I just add boiling water to bring up to sparge temps and then pull it through the false bottom. This makes for pretty "sloppy sparging" (but I do manage about 150 litres in 15 minutes). When I collect it, I take the nice clear portion on top into the boiler, the rest sits until the next day, and I siphon off crystal clear wort into the boiler, and leave the grey "spooey", that has settled out over night ( if you let some wort sit, you might be surprised to find how much of that gunk there is in the clearest of worts)---- I really don't want to add more worries to anyone else's brewing, but one of my personal paranoias and prejudices (which I haven't stringently tested), is that those "husk residues" can be responsable for a variety of ill flavours, and are best removed. 3. As regards hopping, I chuck some in to sit overnight. I like this, because it starts the break going, so the wort doesn't "kick" when it boils, and I can have a fuller boiler. I never have paid any close attention to hop utilization, but this first addition ( about 30 - 40 % of total alpha?) I regard as "characterless". In the "good old days", when I had unlimited access to whole Saaz aroma flowers, and would brew the entire brew with them, I can't say I could tell the difference between using them, or an "inferior" high alpha flower like Northern Brewer on these "overnighters", as long as the Alpha ammount was equivalent. Subsequent additions after the boil starts, do ring through to the finish with their particular character. If doing an "overnighter" appeals to you, I certainly wouldn't hesitate to try it. I've done hundreds, and for a long time I used the EXACT same recipe when brewing and tried to vary one thing at a time (eight years? GAWD what a pedantic bugger!) to see where the important variables that effected taste were.... "breaking up the brew" never seemed to make a whit of difference. Dr. Pivo Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 May 1998 12:45:07 +0000 From: "Tidmarsh Major" <tidmarsh at pop.mindspring.com> Subject: Suggestions for Schwartzbier grain bill I'm planning on brewing a schwarzbier soon, and I'd like some suggestions for a grain bill. The BJCP style guidelines suggest a "judicious" amount of roasted malt to provide dryness and color yet avoid a burnt taste. In "All about Grains 101" at the Brewery website, Jim Busch notes that black patent should be used only in trace amounts and that any color contribution can be obtained from other malts with less harsh flavor contributions. On that advice, I'm thinking chocolate malt, which Busch suggests for 3-12% of the grist, with larger amounts lending a black color and smooth roasted flavor. With that in mind, I'm thinking of using 7.5 lbs of Schreier 2-row pale malt, .5 lb of 10L caramel, and 1 lb of chocolate malt (11%). I'll do a single-temp infusion mash at 152F. Judging by back of the envelope calculations, that gives me about a 1.050 OG and a color of around 73L, which is about twice what the style guidelines suggest, but can a black beer really be too dark? Of more concern, though, will it be too roasty? Should I use less chocolate malt? Thanks again, Tidmarsh Major, Birmingham, Alabama tidmarsh at mindspring.com "Bot we must drynk as we brew, And that is bot reson." -The Wakefield Master, Second Shepherds' Play Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 May 1998 11:52:15 -0600 From: Kevin TenBrink <tenbrink at jps.net> Subject: Re; Bitter sweet Matt wrote in HBD 2727: >>It was heavily dosed with Centennial and another hop that is escaping me for the moment (I want to say Perle). At any rate, it was quite bitter with a lot of hop flavor so it gave me this odd rush of bitterness followed by another rush of sweetness. Am I the only one who thinks this? I find it to be particularly noticeable with Cascade and Centennial for some reason.<< Another data point along this vein-- I brewed a pale ale not too long ago with the following hop schedule: 2oz Nugget 14.8% 60 mins 2oz Cascade 6.5% 20 mins 1 oz Centennial 10.7% 20 mins 1 oz Cascade and 1 oz Centennial dry hop for 2 weeks. all hops were whole flower and the boil volume was 5 gallons. I don't know if you would classify this as "copious amount of flavor hops" but it has a very pronounced hop flavor and bitterness immediatly followed by a pleasantly sweet twang. I thouroughly enjoy it, but I may try to add some more flavor hops or try a FWH method next time I brew this one. Cheers Kevin Salt Lake City Nine Inch Ales Homebrew club Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 May 1998 19:34:11 EDT From: Breadnale at aol.com Subject: open fermentation I thought I'd give it a try. i racked my special bitter to day into closed carboy. So far so good. I used a good eng. ale yeast I use for all my beers. Maybe it's me, but it seemed to have a much fruitier nose at this point, maybe I'm expecting more out of open fermentaation. I'm not necessarily sold on the idea, just curious. The room I used sure smelled nice, the first coupla days. Let's here some experiences? Pros and Cons? I'm sure there are going to be more cons than pros on this one, but lets remember that the big guys do it and continue to. I'd really like to hear comments from, "I've done it before" to "you're a at #$%^& idiot for trying that." Thanks for the input,Jim Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 May 1998 22:42:00 -0400 From: "Ludwig's" <dludwig at us.hsanet.net> Subject: Re: Flat False Bottoms John Thomas brought up some thought provoking stuff: > I have a thought or two and hope it starts a discussion for you. > > A flat false bottom is superior to a dome shaped false bottom in a mash tun > and > the flat false bottom is superior to copper tubes with slits. > > The reasons are: > Flat false bottoms > 1. Higher extraction rates because the pressure is even. If you mean delta P across the false bottom holes, not true. When you drop the pressure under the false bottom, all of the volume experiences the same drop in pressure and will result in the same delta P over the entire surface no matter whether it's flat or any other shape assuming even distribution of filtration husks (big assumption). > Screens Vs tubs with slits > 1. screens pull the wort evenly, the pressure is even across the top Hopefully > 2. tubes must draw toward the tube requiring more movement and more chance > for channeling or missing the good stuff lautering is trying to recover. An more chance for filtration. How can an easy masher type system work so well? All of the action doesn't happen at the false bottom but throughout the grain bed especially in the layers near the FB. If you can build a good homogeneous filter bed, doesn't matter what kind of system you're using. FWIW, I use a coiled copper, slotted manifold. If I remember correctly, there's about 6 feet of 1/2 " copper tube in the coil which gives good suction distribution across the bottom of the 5 gal Gott I'm using. But I don't think I need all that. Out of 15 batches, only one anomolous sparge where I could see definite channeling. That one was one of my mash mixer experimental mashes and I think the problem was caused by not evening out the top surface of the mash before sparging. My feeling on this is that with a large sparge area ( big screen for example), it's harder to maintain equal/distributed flow so portions of the screen area stagnate and flow increases in the other areas. A more concentrated (in terms of suction area) manifold, helps build a deeper husk filtration layer and results in less channeling and fewer stuck sparges. Great topic John! cheers, Dave Ludwig Flat Iron Brewery SO MD Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 May 1998 22:28:59 -0500 From: lorencrow at earthling.net (Loren Crow) Subject: HopsDirect Packaging Hi all, I recently purchased a few pounds of various kinds of hops from HopsDirect (http://www.hopsdirect.com). I'm generally quite pleased with the product. However, I was dismayed to find that they don't packing in nitrogen-barrier packaging. I had understood that this was virtually the only acceptable standard in the industry. Instead, the hops came packaged in cardboard tubes. I've stored them in in the freezer, but am wondering if I should do more to maintain freshness. Should I remove them from the tubes and put them in ziplock baggies, or something? Thanks for your help! Loren ============================================================== # Loren D. Crow, Ph.D. ++ Office Phone: (903) 927-3219 # # Department of Religion ++ Fax: (903) 938-8100 # # Wiley College ++ # # 711 Wiley Avenue ++ Email: lorencrow at earthling.net # # Marshall, TX 75670 ++ # ============================================================== The unexamined life is not worth living. - Socrates Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 31 May 1998 08:11:48 -0400 From: "Frederick L. Pauly" <flp2m at avery.med.virginia.edu> Subject: accurate pH, finally ? As an all grain brewer I have struggled with the problem of getting accurate pH readings of the mash. I have tried the cheap ($100) meters and been dissapointed when I could no longer calibrate them. I then went to the expensive plastic strips and felt better but the color of the strip never really matched the color guide on the box. So then I had the great idea of getting a bottle of pH 5.0 buffer from Fischer Scientific so I could see what the strip looked like in a calibrated buffer. The results were suprising. Whatman type CF pH 4.5-10 read 4.5 in the 5.0 buffer colorPHast pH 4.0-7.0 read 4.7 in the 5.0 buffer Paul Frank pH 3.8 - 5.5 read 4.9 in the 5.0 buffer Please note I am not a scientist and this was a one shot test but I think the idea of testing the strips in a 5.0 buffer was a good one and I feel much more confident of my pH readings now. Rick Pauly Charlottesville,VA Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 31 May 1998 07:54:46 -0500 From: "David Johnson" <dmjalj at inwave.com> Subject: Oak chips Brewers, I would like to use American white oak chips in a batch that I have in primary right now. I am looking for suggestions on how best to use them. I have admired the flavor in several beers that I have tasted (like Rodenbach) and would like some advice on amounts to use, contact time,etc. I am planning a rather long secondary (months). Should I add and remove them before the dry hops? For those wanting to know the style, let's call it an experimental brown porter. We do not need to discuss whether it could be a historically accurate 18th century porter. Dave Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 31 May 1998 09:04:08 -0500 From: "Charles L. Ehlers" <clehlers at flinthills.com> Subject: Re: Butt Lube Pure silicon jelly works as well or better than Vaseline as a lubricant, is far superior as an aid to a watertight seal, is more stable, will not cause rubber o-rings to deteriorate, and will not dissolve in beer or water. I've heard you can get "food grade" silicon jell, but don't know where. I suspect all "food grade" means is that it's pure. I'd go to a hardware store or scuba shop (divers use it on their equipment, to include the o-rings on their tanks and regulators), buy a tube/jar of pure silicon and use that. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 31 May 1998 10:11:37 -0400 From: "Frederick L. Pauly" <flp2m at avery.med.virginia.edu> Subject: LaChouffe Yeast Clone ? Does anyone know of a commercial yeast available to homebrewers that is simialar to that used by the Belgium Brewery LaChouffe to brew their Golden Ale? I'm trying to grow the yeast from the bottle but am skeptical of the outcome. thanks, Rick Pauly Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 31 May 1998 07:08:47 -0700 From: Jack Schmidling <arf at mc.net> Subject: mash/sparge one day, boil the next, (AND pitch the next) Randy Ricchi says: "I posted this technique to the Homebrew Digest once or twice in the past, and saw a few responses, always critical.... It wouldn't be homebrewing if someone did not criticize non-orthodox methods that can't possibly produce drinkable beer. My wort chiller has been collecting dust for the second season now. I simply turn off the boiler when done, put on the lid and let it sit to cool over night. I transfer it to the fermenter and pitch the next morning and it is still the World's Greatest Beer. js - -- Visit our WEB pages: Beer Stuff......... http://ays.net/jsp Astronomy....... http://user.mc.net/arf ASTROPHOTO OF THE WEEK..... New Every Monday Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 31 May 1998 11:41:28 -0400 From: Randy Shreve <rashreve at interpath.com> Subject: Follow-up on Pin-lock Keg Poppets Dear HBD: My profuse thanks to the MANY who responded to my recent plea for help in being unable to find the right poppets for my kegs. Extra special thanks to Jethro Gump (Rob), who took the time to research what I needed. Unfortunately, it turned out that the particular poppets I needed were obsolete! Having heard the final word, I made one last glorious attempt on the workbench......and IT ACTUALLY WORKED!!!! Frugal brewing does pay off! I had two of the generic poppets laying around that were a good match except for the feet. I cut off the feet, beveled the cut ends, bent them in the vise, fiddled and farted ....and voila.....poppets that actually work. I don't know why I didn't try this much earlier. I guess I just needed to hear that I didn't have any other options (except to spend more money). A brewer's frustration, like necessity, must indeed be the mother of invention/modification. Thanks again folks! This is a FANTASTIC forum. Yay Janitors!!!! (Tim Allen noises.....) Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 31 May 1998 17:00:36 -0700 From: Jon Sandlin <sandlinj at ucs.orst.edu> Subject: emu export lager recipe? Does anybody have a recipe that comes close to emu export lager? I am trying to brew a batch of beer that my father will like. While he was in Australia fell in love with this beer. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Jon Sandlin Corvallis, OR Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 31 May 1998 21:55:44 -0500 From: "Rob Moline" <brewer at ames.net> Subject: The Jethro Report The Jethro Gump Report "The Practical Brewer" "TPB," as has been noted, is not the "Handbook of Brewing," The 'current'edition of "TPB" was published in 1977...the 10th printing, which I have, was published in 1993. The MBAA requested input some time ago from the pro-brewing community, keeping in mind that these days there are a LOT more brewers of a commercial nature, size notwithstanding....regarding the concerns that we would like to see addressed in the next edition of TPB...concerns that were really quite different from those that face a 'mega'..... The next edition of "TPB" is expected to be available by the beginning of 1999....Keep in mind that this book is written by volunteer authors...all of whom have day jobs, that include working for the largest, and the smallest of commercial breweries in the country...... MSRP for the current edition is 35 USD, recently discounted to 20 bucks at the recent convention....... As this situation resembles other 'new edition' scenarios, I recommend that you acquire both the old and the new, and compare...not only for content, but also for collectibility.... And I always learn from what has been deleted from the last edition.... See <www.mbaa.com> Cheers! Jethro Gump "The More I Know About Beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About Beer!" Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 31 May 1998 23:57:43 -0400 From: "Timothy A. Stelljes" <73061.2066 at compuserve.com> Subject: Natural Gas Fired Outdoor Cookers This last winter I moved into a new house with a natural gas stub on the back patio for BBQ, etc. I would like to use this to fuel an outdoor cooker for homebrewing instead of the usual propane. I have not yet purchased the cooker or any conversion hardware, and would appreciate any comments, suggestions, or ideas anyone might have. I checked the HBD archives and found nothing. I did find conversion kits for cookers in some catalogs; they appear to be extension hose with a quick disconnect. I understand it may be necessary to use different size orifices for burners and possibly different control valves as well. Does anyone have any experience with this type of setup? TIA, Tim Stelljes 73061.2066 at compuserve.com Return to table of contents
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