---

	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com


Contents:
  re: Some Pump Wiring Help (John_E_Schnupp)
  RE: Imperial Stout ("Timothy Green")
  Re: Women & beer (Scott Murman)
  getting soft drink  kegs/larger yeast ("Darren Robey")
  Ipswich stout, helping hands (Bill Anderson)
  Water Reports (AJ)
  Calculating increases in batch size (Jebbly)
  Measuring alcohol content with salt (Aaron Banerjee)
  AHA/ Bottling IS --- Thanx ("Victor Farren")
  re:Yeast Data (Charley)
  Kegging with Nitrogen ("Zierdt, Cpt John")
  Pump Wiring (Mark_Ohrstrom/Humphrey_Products)
  terminology (Jim Liddil)
  Fresh hops (EFOUCH)
  Yeast and oxygen (George_De_Piro)
  Sweet Stout.. (Badger Roullett)
  Nitrogen and Refrigerators (oberlbk)
  Re: New Hop Variety: Santiam (Alan Edwards)
  RE: Some Pump Wiring Help? (LaBorde, Ronald)
  New Hop Variety: Santiam ("Houseman, David L")
  parti-gyle (Chris Cooper)
  More on bottle baking (Rod Wellman)
  RE: Yeast Data ("Mort O'Sullivan")
  cooling/ HSA ("Dr. Pivo")
  Sahti / hops / juniper ("=?ISO-8859-1?Q?Ari_J=E4rm=E4l=E4?=")
  KillerY/A weizen to live/More- so many beers ("Steve Alexander")
  sweet stout - nummy (Badger Roullett)


Let a good beer be the exclamation point at the end of your day as
every sentence deserves proper punctuation...

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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 22:07:00 -0700
From: John_E_Schnupp at amat.com
Subject: re: Some Pump Wiring Help

Bradd,

>Coming from the pump I've got 3 wires Black, White and Green.  I purchased
>an extension cord (Heavier gauge than the leads from the pump) which also
>has Black, White and Green wires.  I know at least that Green is the
>ground and I am assuming Black is negative and white is positive.
Almost, green is earth ground, black is hot and white is neutral.
AC does not have a (+) and (-) like DC.


>Now, If I were to cut off the female plug from the extension cord
>and then connect White to White, Green to Green, and Black to
>Black the pump would work properly once plugged in correct?
Yes.

>My question comes about installing a switch between the pump and the wall
>plate.  For this purpose I would like to use a simple household light
>switch in a watertight PVC housing.  On the switch there are 3
>connections, one for the ground, and 2 for the switch.  As I understand
>it, with the switch in the off position, the connection between the latter
>two is broken and with the switch in the on position this connection is
>completed.
Yes.

>Now my question.  Can I simply wire the ground to the ground, the White to
>the White, and then Wire the Black wires one to each of the connections on
>the switch?  Therefore interrupting the circuit when the switch is off and
>completing it when the switch is on?
Yes this is the correct way.  The terminal screws on the switch should
both be brass.  If you look at an outlet, one will be brass and the other
nickel.  The brass is for black wire and the nickel is for the white wire.
An easy to remember this is, dark screw=dark wire and light screw=light
wire.
I believe this a industry standard.  In my line of work, I've had the
opportunity to wire various equipment.  Sometimes other colors are used but
usually dark colors are hot and light colors are neutral.  I've never
seen any color but green for earth ground.

If the outlet to which you are going to connect the pump it not GFI get a
GFI outlet and install it.  This will help protect you from electrical
shock.  The breaker in the electrical panel protects your wiring and
a GFI outlet protects you.

John Schnupp, N3CNL
Colchester, VT
95 XLH 1200




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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 01:39:37 -0400
From: "Timothy Green" <TimGreen at ix.netcom.com>
Subject: RE: Imperial Stout

Victor Farren Writes:

>Can I add fresh starter from the dregs of the 2ndary and use the newly
fermenting yeast when bottling or will the high >alcohol in the IS have made
them too loopy to do a good job?  Will they be prone to giving off flavors?
I know that it is not >a good idea to ferment another batch with yeast that
has fermented a BIG beer b/c the alcohol content mutates them, but I >don't
know if that would hold for bottling where there is a small addition of
fermentable sugar and thus not a lot of new >fermenting going on.

I don't see that you should have any trouble using a fresh starter made from
the secondary dregs. I have done the same a number of times.

About the idea of not reusing the yeast from a BIG beer, I am still
searching for where this information has been coming from. As a mead maker
before I began to brew beer, I have often pitched a fresh must onto the
dregs of a previous batch with no ill effects what so ever. The SG's of my
meads are invariably 1.090 or greater and normally around 1.110.

I have seen no change in the flavor characteristics produced by the yeast
being reused. Now before someone jumps in saying wine yeasts are different
from beer yeasts, I have done the same with ciders and I use ale yeasts
almost exclusively in my ciders.

The only difference I have seen in reusing yeasts is that sometimes they
ferment out to their limits much faster than a new starter will. I have come
to believe that this is because there is a much larger amount of active
yeast in the yeast cake than in a starter.

I hope your stout turns out fantastic!

Tim Green

Mead is great...
Beer is good...
(But beer is much faster)



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Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 23:33:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Scott Murman <smurman at best.com>
Subject: Re: Women & beer


Let's review the offerings we have so far, 

> lifting heavy carboys, etc may be one  reason.

> Most women simply don't like beer.

> they complain that beer "makes me gassy."

I'm surprised it hasn't been mentioned, but the number one (and it's
not even close for 2nd place) reason the women I know don't drink a
lot of beer is the calories that lead to larger thighs, hips, stomach,
etc.

SM



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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 17:27:14 +11:00
From: "Darren Robey" <robeyd at vida.agvic.gov.au>
Subject: getting soft drink  kegs/larger yeast

 greetings brewers,
 
 
 well this is  the  first post from a brewer of 3 months. Both of
 these go to Australians reading this as they are about getting
 equiptment in Australia , but Hi to all those international readeres
 any how.
 
 I was interested to find out if anyone knew where to get those 19l
 (5gallon) soft drink kegs they used to use from post mix drinks. A
 friend tells me they dont use them any more and I would love to find
 a few to experiment with kegging.
 ___________________________________________________
 
 On the yeast issue, I was wondering if anyone knew of a lager tyle
 beer with a live yeast sediment. Having just aquired more fermenters
 I am keen to try adn make a style of beer with a lower fermentation
 temp while its still cool at home and I can do it with out having
 fermenters in the fridge.
 
 Any help appreciated
 
 Cheers
 
 Darren Robey


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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 10:21:10 +0100
From: anderson at ini.cz (Bill Anderson)
Subject: Ipswich stout, helping hands

Fellow HBDers
Not that long ago I trashed Ipswich Stout and proved myself a most unworthy
houseguest. My apologies to all. Truth is, I shot from the hip, wrote
poorly, and posted out of sheer boredom whilst awaiting a long overdue
(insert fanfare here)

ARRIVAL OF A NEW BREWER

(wwwwrrraaaahhhhh!!!!! ...the crowd goes wild! Let's see if we can't get a
"Wave" going...)

Sara Ann, born after a long and difficult labor, is already showing signs
of exquisite taste and an appreciation of fine brewing; having insisted on
lagering far longer than Mom wanted.

Funny how a quiet, prune-like creature can captivate your heart after only
a few minutes... The dreams are already there; teaching her to count
(1.010, 1.020, 1.030), how to tell time (Sara, when the big hand reaches
the nine, open the sparge valve like a good girl, okay?) and all the other
important things that Dad knows about life; how to properly tip a
gondolier, which button shuts down a helicopter, why you should never
freeze basil...

Please join me in raising a glass in praise of a fine team of gentle and
caring physicians, a brave Mom, and a beautiful new prune -er, brewer. May
we prove to be kind and worthy parents.

 -Bill Anderson
Prague, Czech Republic
anderson at ini.cz


P.S. Thanks for allowing such sentimental drivel into an otherwise
excellent resource.




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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 08:01:42 -0400
From: AJ <ajdel at mindspring.com>
Subject: Water Reports

Badger asks about where he might find info on his city's water. Start
with http://www.awwa.org/utility.htm which is an AWWA page with links to
many muncipal suppliers pages, several of which include water analysis
data.



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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 08:45:23 EDT
From: Jebbly at aol.com
Subject: Calculating increases in batch size

Phil, 

Thanks for your response to my questions on increasing my batch sizes.  All of
your information was very helpful.  I am still in the dark on how to calculate
the amount of grains (ie increase them).  I'm reposting this on the hbd, but
would also like to pick your brain a bit more.  I have also had time to think
of more questions.  Basically, I have worked hard to develop some very fine
(in my mind) 5 gal all grain recipes and now want to brew larger batches and
sock them away for the winter.
I've tried brewing back to back batches in the same day which is far too time
consuming.


HBD:

I posted this question a few days ago, but maybe I wasn't very clear.  I have
been mashing 5 gal batches and now want to increase the size of some of my
recipes to 10 and 15 gal sizes.

Can anyone give me some >>detailed<< guidance on calculating the increase in
grains, hop scheduling, yeast prep and  sparge time:

1.  Is a one pint starter of yeast enough for a larger batch, or should I
start a quart or more?

2. How do I figure the proportional increase in grains? 

3.  Hop bitterness doesn't seem that tough to figure out, but I could use some
advice as well as for hop aroma.

Thanks again.  

Dave Grommons





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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 09:44:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: Aaron Banerjee <aaron at mirror.his.com>
Subject: Measuring alcohol content with salt


Recently I read in a very old chemistry handbook (which discusses brewing
beer, making wine, and distilling spirits) that one way to determine the
alcohol content is by dissolving common table salt before and after.  As
the wort ferments, less salt will disolve.

For mixtures which are purely alcohol and water, you only need to do this
after distillation, because the amount of salt water will disolve is
known.

Does anyone know if this works?  Has anyone tried it?

I'll supply more details if anyone wants them.

      - Aaron Banerjee

p.s.  I know there are better ways of determining alcohol content, but
this sounded kind of neat.



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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 10:08:42 -0400
From: "Victor Farren" <vfarren at smtp.cdie.org>
Subject: AHA/ Bottling IS --- Thanx

AHA- Thankx to those who explained the AHA/HBD relationship.  It all makes 
sense now.

Bottling Imperial Stout--  Thanx to those who sent me emails.  I think I 
will wash the dregs of the 2ndary and 'freshen' them up w/ a some 
'normal' gravity starter.  FYI I took a gravity reading last night and 
it was  at  1.020, down from 1.090!  Woohoo!  I guess that 2 liter 
starter really did the job!  
For those who are interested, I used Wyeast Thames Valley for this one.  
Good to know it won't konk early b/c of alcohol content.


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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 07:55:51 -0700
From: Charley <caburns at egusd.k12.ca.us>
Subject: re:Yeast Data

Regarding Mort's excellent post (hbd#2802) on volume of yeast slurry (in
fl oz) to pitch to reach optimal rate.

It was me. Asking for how much slurry should I pitch, hopefully in
liquid oz measurements. I can see that with the jillions of variables
involved that's not a very realistic question, unless we have the
equipment needed to take a few measurements. Thus, if I had a centrifuge
I could use the data you provide to get much closer to an answer. But I
don't.

I do follow some similiar procedures when I recover and wash yeast,
storing under boiled distilled water. What I don't know is how much
liquid is lost during centrifuge (so I can adjust the calculations).

What I see from your excellent post is from .77 oz up to 3.26 oz. Now
the post says its fl oz, but it appears to be very close to my standard
conversion of 28 gm to 1 oz. Is this because almost all of the water is
gone? I guess I'm curious as to how the conversion from weight to volume
was accomplished. (probably a stupid question so my flame shields are up
now).

Next question is for what volume of wort is the volume of yeast for
(approx) comm. pitch rate given? ie for yeast cake A, .77 fl oz of yeast
into how many gallons of wort?

Last question is, if I assume that my slurry is at the lowest end of
your discovery regarding viability and density and accumulate enough
slurry to reach the commercial rate, what happens (to the beer) if my
slurry is _actually_ at the high end? Based on the table presented
(assuming this is the entire universe of possibilities and my slurry
falls within them) I could potentially be pitching 4 times as much yeast
as is needed (optimal?). What impact will this have on the beer? Is this
serious over pitching or only a "little" overpitching? What is the
expected impact of pitching say 10 or 20 times the "nominal/optimal"
rate? And what about Mary Lou....

Two bazillion and 1, two bazillion and two, two bazillion and .....

Charley (still counting) in N. Cal


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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 11:15:22 -0400
From: "Zierdt, Cpt John" <Zierdt at jbc.js.mil>
Subject: Kegging with Nitrogen

I have been lurking since I started brewing in April and this forum 
has helped me to make some great homebrew.  Now I need some 
help with a topic that I have not seen covered here or in the archives.

I am getting ready to buy equipment to start kegging my beer. 
I would like to serve all of my beers with nitrogen ala Guinness.
I have tried 10-12 different beers served with N2 and I love the 
creamy mouthfeel on everythig from IPA to stout.

My question:  Is it possible to do with a cobra faucet or do I 
need to get the actual Guinness style tap with the restrictor plate? 

I do plan on buying the taps at a later date but I would like to start
out with just the picnic tap.

I believe I can get the Mixed gas and the N2 regulator fairly easily
and would prime the kegs with sugar instead of force carbonating.

Has anyone out there ever done this or seen it done?  Any hints or 
suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
John Zierdt
Virginia Beach




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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 11:21:44 -0400
From: Mark_Ohrstrom/Humphrey_Products at humphreypc.com
Subject: Pump Wiring

Disclaimer: I am not a licensed electrician, nor have I played one on
television ...

>Now my question.  Can I simply wire the ground to the ground, the White to
>the White, and then Wire the Black wires one to each of the connections on
>the switch?  Therefore interrupting the circuit when the switch is off and
>completing it when the switch is on?

Yep, you've got it right, but maybe not for the right reason.  The green IS
ground, the white is "neutral" (also connected to ground -- go figure), and
the black is "hot".  Positive and Negative changes wires in an
*alternating* current circuit.  If you look at the screws on your switch,
one is green (for the ground wire), and the others either silver-colored or
brass.  The white goes to the silver, and the black to the brass (this way,
you are switching the "hot" wire on or off. If the neutral were the one
being switched, a circuit could still be completed (through YOU -- ow-eee!)
from the hot to ground, or to another neutral.) Loop the wire clockwise
around the screw so that it tightens as you tighten the screw.

I would recommend getting a Reader's Digest Do-It-Yourself manual from the
library (~$20 to buy), or a copy of "Practical Wiring" for about $5 (it
used to have a cool hole drilled through it so you could hang it on a nail)
- -- especially if you are a homeowner.  Also, watch the Radio Shaft ads for
a cheap VOM (volt-ohm-milliamp) meter.  They are really handy for
everything from checking for hot circuits to testing batteries.  Also, get
one of those $3 plug-in devices that checks if the outlet is wired
correctly!  If it isn't (and too often they aren't) you can still get
zapped -- brewing water and electricity DON'T mix!

Mark in Kalamazoo




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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 08:52:51 +0000
From: Jim Liddil <jliddil at azcc.arizona.edu>
Subject: terminology

John Wilkinson wrote:

>>Remember what the AOB/AHA tried to do to this forum.
>
>I don't remember them trying to do anything to this forum.  As I remember it
>they picked up HBD when the original janitor had to let it go and they tried
>to adapt it to a different mail server.  They had problems and were flailed
>pretty well for every error.  When they abandoned it after all the abuse
>
OK so I used the wrong term.  The AHA/AOB and their ISP couldn't handle it.
 This brought to mind the "Free to a good home: slightly used conspiracy
theory" e-mail I got from a person who runs a couple of listservs. The
AHA/AOB is an organization with money and they contracted with a provider
to handle this stuff.  Then Pat and Karl with their own time and effort
resurrected things (check out the history at hbd.org).  If the AHA/AOB
really cared they would have hired somebody to fix things but they did not.
 The AHA/AOB deserved to get flailed.  Karl and Pat made it work.  Karl
provided a judge list when the judgenet went down.  Look at the machine
this list runs on now. Can you say frankenstein?  But it works.  Because
these guys care!  So now the AHA has techtalk for it's members and it has
largley failed.  

Killer factors have been reported to contain a glycoprotein  that exerts
its lethal  effect by changing the integrity of the plasma membrane of
sensitive strains.  Killer strains of Saccharomyces contain a cytoplasmic
doulbe stranded RNA that codes for an extracellular toxin as well as for an
immunity factor that gives the ability for the infected cell to protect
itself from the toxin.  (From Yeast Technology 2nd ed.)

Jim Liddil





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Date: 19 Aug 1998 12:19:57 -0400
From: EFOUCH at steelcase.com
Subject: Fresh hops


HBD-
I have a few questions regarding Joe Kish's admonitions
to use fresh hops off the bine:
From: "J. Kish" <jjkish at worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Hops-Off-The-Vine

To: Ian Smith
      You asked about using hops direct off the vine
and into your beer.   Do it!   I did it last year, and
it is beautiful!  Outstanding flavor, and there is an
improvement in the foamy head.   I can hardly wait until
my hop flowers are ready---any day now.

I have seen posted here in the HBD about a grassy odor/flavor
in finished beer as a result of using home grown hops.  Is
this because the hops may have been picked too soon?  I
originally thought it may be because they weren't dried
properly.
Here we have a data point indicating inadequate drying is
not the culprit?

Also- I have read somewhere that hops need to be a little
oxidized.  Sure, we want to store them in oxygen barrier
containers to avoid gross oxidation, but I seem to have
been led to believe (don't remember where) that a small amount
of initial oxidation is desirable for optimal hop flavor.
I don't think I'm confusing this with oxidized hops for lambics.

Does anybody have references on this?

Thanks- And especially to Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen

Eric Fouch
Bent Dick YoctoBrewery
Kentwood MI

P.S. Considering changing the name to "Bent Slick Willy
YoctoBrewery", but I can't find an intern willing to rack
my primary.


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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 12:52:20 -0700
From: George_De_Piro at berlex.com
Subject: Yeast and oxygen

     Hi all,
     
     I read an interesting abstract in the Journal of the Institute of 
     Brewing (July-Aug. 1998).  It is an experiment in which yeast were 
     grown under 3 different conditions:
     
     1.  With continuous aeration
     2.  Aeration for one hour
     3.  Anaerobically
     
     Under aerobic conditions the yeast's levels of fatty acids increased 
     while under anaerobic conditions the levels of storage sugars 
     increased (no surprise).
     
     In test fermentations with the yeast thus grown, the aerobically 
     cultivated yeast grew to larger numbers, had higher viability, and 
     higher levels of both fatty acids and storage sugars than the yeast 
     cultivated anearobically (again, not too surprising, but important).
     
     There were no significant differences in fermentation performance 
     between the yeast cultivated with continuous aeration or those with 
     one hour of aeration (that seems interesting to me).
     
     Since I only have access to the abstract, I am missing certain 
     experimental details that would be interesting to know.  One thing 
     that I'd like to know is if the yeast were aerated at all when pitched 
     into wort for the fermentation tests (my guess would be that they were 
     not).  Also, how big was the test fermentation, and what were the 
     pitching rates?  How many times were the starters fed, and was the 
     starter that was only given O2 for one hour given O2 at each feeding?  
     Was pure O2 used, or air?
     
     Perhaps some others out there (with a good library) can enlighten us 
     further (Jim?  Mort?  I'm always bugging you guys).
     
     This paper would have practical applications both at home and in 
     larger breweries.  If continuous aeration/oxygenation isn't needed, 
     why bother with it?
     
     The paper is:
     
     Effects of aeration during the cultivation of pitching yeast on its
     characteristics during the subsequent fermentation of wort
     H Maemura, S Morimura, K Kida
     JIB Vol. 104 No. 4, pp. 207-211
     
     Have fun!
     
     George De Piro  (Nyack, NY)


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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 10:02:47 -0700
From: Badger Roullett <branderr at microsoft.com>
Subject: Sweet Stout..

George_De_Piro at berlex.com  Wrote...
>  I have made sweet stouts without milk sugar by mashing at 71C and 
>     using almost no hops.  Works pretty well, and your lactose intolerant 
>    and vegan friends will be able to drink it.


oooh, do share.. i am lactose intolerant.  my Sweet stout utilized teh
sweetness of crystal, and low hop bitterness to achieve teh nice nummy
taste.  but your way might be intersting to try.. maybe some side by side
comparisons.... :) more beer..

maybe i will dig up the recipe, and post it..

Now where did i leave that peice of paper...

*********************************************
Brander Roullett aka Badger

Brewing Page: http://www.nwlink.com/~badger/badgbeer.html
Badgers Brewing Bookstore: http://www.nwlink.com/~badger/brewbook.html

In the SCA: 
Lord Frederic Badger of Amberhaven, Innkeeper of the Cat and Cup Inn





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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 12:24:30 -0400
From: oberlbk at NU.COM
Subject: Nitrogen and Refrigerators

This is a two part question.  The first has to do with converting a fridge
or a freezer to a beer dispenser.  In order to have more room in the
freezer, I would like to have the CO2 tank outside.  Is it a problem if you
use a shank to go through the wall of the freezer??  If you do not use a
shank, how do you get through the wall?  You could just stick a hose
through and foam it in place, but this seems like any tugging on the line
would cause problems.

My second issue has to do with using mixed gas on homebrew.  I found a
place with some quality "Guiness gas" and I would like to use it to create
that magical head on my brew.  Do you simply just force carbonate with the
mixed gas and then dispense with it too?  I have also heard that you
lightly carbonate with CO2 and finish the job/dispense with the mixed gas.
Which is correct?  Finally, when it comes to the faucet to go on the front
of the freezer, it appears that there are 2 types of "stout" faucets.  One
is called standard, and the other is a restrictor faucet.  What is the
difference and which one will duplicate that Guiness pour?  I would guess
the restrictor nozzle, but who wants to spend the money on a guess.  Ooops,
one more question.  Do I need a special regulator to dispense mixed gas, or
is my CO2 regulator good enough?

Thanks in advance.  Private emails work for me.

Brent Oberlin (oberlbk at nu.com)
East Hampton, CT




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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 11:49:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Alan Edwards <ale at cisco.com>
Subject: Re: New Hop Variety: Santiam

 
Tim Burkhart writes:
| I'm not a hop grower (yet) or a user of Tettnanger but thought this
| might be of interest to someone.
|  
| The USDA-ARS is announcing their "Santiam" hop as a new naturally
| seedless variety of Tettnanger.  They say that while Tettnanger is
| grown in the U.S., its yield is lower than Tettnager grown in Germany.
| Santiam supposedly yields twice as much as U.S. grown Tettnager.
|  
| There is a very short article on the Science Update page of the August
| '98 Agriculture Research magazine.
| http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/AR/archive/aug98/sci0898.htm ...scroll to
| the bottom of the page.

Unfortunately, the article is too breif.  Has anyone else read about
this?  I'm interested to find out it's lineage.  Especially now that it
has been discovered that US Tettnanger is most likely of Fuggle lineage
and not at all related to true German Tettnanger!

Is Santiam spawn of US Tett or German Tett?

Thanks
 -Alan


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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 14:04:03 -0500
From: rlabor at lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald)
Subject: RE: Some Pump Wiring Help?

From: Bradd Wheeler <braddw at rounder.com>

>Coming from the pump I've got 3 wires Black, White and Green.  I purchased
>an extension cord (Heavier gauge than the leads from the pump) which also
>has Black, White and Green wires.  I know at least that Green is the
>ground and I am assuming Black is negative and white is positive.

Well an old electrician told me the way to remember:
	Green is the color of grass (ground)
	Black is the color you turn if you touch it (hot)
	White is neutral (common)

If you are using standard A.C. power, than you do not have a separate
positive and negative conductor, actually they alternate at each moment (60
times a second in the U.S.)

>Now, If I were to cut off the female plug from the extension cord
>and then connect White to White, Green to Green, and Black to
>Black the pump would work properly once plugged in correct?

Yes, if you first remembered to pull the plug before cutting the wire, else
the pump will have to wait till you get a new set of cutting pliers and a
circuit breaker reset or a new fuse installed.

>Now my question.  Can I simply wire the ground to the ground, the White to
>the White, and then Wire the Black wires one to each of the connections on
>the switch?  Therefore interrupting the circuit when the switch is off and
>completing it when the switch is on?

Yes that is correct with one addition, wire the ground to the switch ground
screw also.  This is in the rare case that the insulation for the wires or
the switch breaks down, and you will be protected against any hot metal case
parts.

>I apologize for my rudimentary explanation here, but if anyone can help
>out I would be much obliged.

No need to apologize, err.., unless your wife's name is Hillary.

Ron

Ronald La Borde - Metairie, Louisiana - rlabor at lsumc.edu



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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 15:31:50 -0400
From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com>
Subject: New Hop Variety: Santiam

At the NHC in Cleveland last year the speaker on Hops brought a number
of samples and Santiam was one of them.  I was lucky enough to walk away
with about 4oz of whole Santiam hops.  This is a wonderful hop and
yielded several excellently hopped American Pale Ales.  A very
interesting alternative to Cascades.  Softer, more floral.  I'd
recommend it.

Dave Houseman


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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 16:06:49 -0400
From: Chris Cooper <ccooper at a2607cc.msr.hp.com>
Subject: parti-gyle 

Greetings all!   

  I have been following the recent talk of parti-gyle brewing and have a 
  question of Dave Riedel (posted in #2801) and the rest of the group in
  general.  Dave responded that he has done a parti-gyle double brew
  session based on 12# of grain, the first runnings yield was 3 gal.
  at 1.099 and the second runnings were 6 gal. at 1.048, when I do the
  math this seems to be a bit high in extraction.

	(3 X 99)  + (6 X 48)
        ---------------------  =  48 points per pound of grain !!!
		 12          

  Dave, what type of mash schedule were you using and what do you use for
  a mash tun?  What were the final gravities of these brews, I've got to
  think you had some non-fermentables in there as the the extraction rate
  comes out on the high side.

  To the rest of the collective, what has you experience been with parti-gyle
  as far as amount of grain used and the yields for the first and second
  runnings.

   

Chris Cooper , Commerce Michigan    --> Pine Haven Brewery <--
Chris_Cooper at hp.com                 --> aka. Deb's Kitchen <--
          (about 15 miles North of the HBD server) 



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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 15:44:24 -0500
From: Rod Wellman <rmw at williams.com>
Subject: More on bottle baking

My method of sanitizing bottles is similar to Mike's with a couple of
exceptions:

>Cover top with a small square of aluminum foil.

I've never covered mine while in the oven.  I figure that there aren't a
whole lot of alive bacteria in an oven, anyway.

>Cram as many as possible into my oven (luckily my oven holds exactly   
>enough for a 5 gallon batch).  I stand them up

I remove the top rack in the oven, then rest mine on the side and stack
them all on top of each other.  In my apartment sized stove, I can fit all
54 bottles.

>Set the time bake to kick on at 3:00 am for 1 hour at 350 deg.
>Take them out of the oven the next day and store them for whenever I need   
>them.
>

I preheat the oven to 200 degrees before placing them inside.  Then I leave
them in NO longer than 15 minutes at 200 degrees.  I believe 180 degrees is
the point at which bacteria dies.  200 is plenty safe.  I have heard that
higher temperatures and longer times in the oven my weaken the structure of
the glass.  Once done, I let them cool in the oven for awhile, then remove
and put into my long-neck case boxes and cover the tops of the bottles with
celophane wrap to keep air out until bottling. (Don't touch the openings of
the bottles when you remove them.  I use a clean dishtowel...it also acts
as a hotpad).  I've stored them this way for up to a week, but it's
probably best to bottle sooner rather than later.  I've never used any
other sanitation method, and have done almost 30 batches this way.  Never
had a bad beer from a bacteria problem caused by a dirty bottle. I have
experienced this in other homebrew...it's pretty obvious! As always, good
sanitation in every other step is a must.  I always rinse the bottle right
after pouring into a glass and air dry upside down.  This way, I don't
allow the sediment in the bottom to cake on or start to mold, and the
bottles are mostly clean already. On bottling day, I wash my bottles in
regular dishwashing detergent and use a bottle brush to get them clean.
Then, I rinse well and let air dry before putting them into the oven to
"bake."

The only down side is that if you do the baking on the same day as the
bottling, you will have to wait 2 or 3 hours until the bottles cool.  I've
never done it, but I don't think pouring 70 degree beer into a 150 degree
bottle would be good for it.

Rod Wellman
Sioux City, Ia.


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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 22:00:01 +0100
From: "Mort O'Sullivan" <tarwater at brew-master.com>
Subject: RE: Yeast Data

>What I see from your excellent post is from .77 oz up to 3.26 oz. Now
>the post says its fl oz, but it appears to be very close to my standard
>conversion of 28 gm to 1 oz. Is this because almost all of the water is
>gone? I guess I'm curious as to how the conversion from weight to volume
>was accomplished. (probably a stupid question so my flame shields are up
>now).

Not such a stupid question. 1 gram of yeast slurry occupies a volume of
almost exactly 1 ml (I have found this to be true for both centrifuged and
gravity-settled yeast, and I guess this shows that yeast is mostly water).
So, for our purposes a gram is a ml, and to convert ml to fluid ounces,
just divide by 29.5727.

For example: 22.6 g yeast = 22.6/29.5727 fl.oz. yeast = 0.77 fl.oz. yeast

Note that I do not claim this is *exactly* accurate, but it should put you
in the ballpark.

>Next question is for what volume of wort is the volume of yeast for
>(approx) comm. pitch rate given? ie for yeast cake A, .77 fl oz of yeast
>into how many gallons of wort?

Sorry. It should have said in 5 gal. of wort. What you should really do is
just take the figures for cells/g of yeast cake and figure out how much you
would need to achieve a rate of 1 million cells/ml per degree Plato of your
wort.

Also note that in the table for centrifuged yeast, the 5th row, Total
Cells, is a complete mistake (the 3rd row accurately reflects the figures
for total cells). I don't know how it got in there but it was not used for
any other calculations and should be ignored.

>Last question is, if I assume that my slurry is at the lowest end of
>your discovery regarding viability and density and accumulate enough
>slurry to reach the commercial rate, what happens (to the beer) if my
>slurry is _actually_ at the high end? Based on the table presented
>(assuming this is the entire universe of possibilities and my slurry
>falls within them) I could potentially be pitching 4 times as much yeast
>as is needed (optimal?). What impact will this have on the beer? Is this
>serious over pitching or only a "little" overpitching?

Probably would not be a big deal. Assuming the data I showed represents the
whole range to be expected in yeast density (and I'm sure it doesn't) then
you could expect to be pitching between 10 and 40 million cells/ml. I would
feel much more comfortable in this range than in the 0.1 to 0.2 million
cells/ml that many homebrewers actually use.

>What is the expected impact of pitching say 10 or 20 times the
>"nominal/optimal" rate? And what about Mary Lou....

The impact that is generally expected is that you would have very little
yeast growth, a slightly slower fermentation than normal, and perhaps a
different flavor profile.
However, there is conflicting evidence regarding these expectations, and
this is one of the things I'm looking into at the moment. I don't have any
answers yet.

Hope this helped.

Cheers,
Mort O'Sullivan



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Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 00:03:41 +0100
From: "Dr. Pivo" <irv at wireworks.se>
Subject: cooling/ HSA

I've got some good news, some bad news, and some very bad news.

(I am presenting this in the perspective of the HBD tradition of
vociferously chanting the cause, of industrial brewing literature).

I have been experimenting with "chilled vs. nonchilled" and "non chilled
normal treated vs. non chilled intentionally created HSA" batches.

I have triangle tested these (thanks for that tip Mr. Louis K. Bonham).

The good news is that there is "almost" a statistical significant
difference between chilled and non-chilled beers ( sorry about that J.
Schmidling).  This points to me an obvious need for repetition and
larger sample size. (What in the name of Pee Wee Herman's bicycle are
all you homebrewer's out there doin'?)

The bad news, is that of the individuals that could distinguish a
difference, there was by no means any clear cut preference between the
two.

The very bad news, was that the intentionally created "HSA" (does that
stand for Heirarchically Submitted Answers?) was so far from being
"significant" that it does not bear repeating in that test format.

When I get my backside removed from it's comfortable position placed on
my left thumb, I'll try and write up some sort of "material and methods"
thing, plus a critique of possible introduced variables, confounders,
and the like that have occurred in this 'spearment-- That really is the
meat of doing any of this stuff (look for your errors, and you'll likely
find what is valid).

As per usual, I'll not post here, but wave a flag when done, and point
to it.

I'll shortly mention that the "intentional HSA" was created by dropping
a load, like Slim Pickens riding the bomb in "Doctor Strangelove", right
out of the boiler, and letting it splash land merrily about a meter
below.

This will at least give the vanguards of dogma a chance to sharpen their
argumentative pencils, and anyone interested in finding out what's
really going on, to arrange their own experiments.

It really would be nice with larger numbers, and more independent tests.

Dr. Pivo


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Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 01:08:44 +0300
From: "=?ISO-8859-1?Q?Ari_J=E4rm=E4l=E4?=" <jarmala at pcuf.fi>
Subject: Sahti / hops / juniper

David A Bradley <BRADLEY_DAVID_A at lilly.com> wrote about sahti:

>why not use First Mash Hopping (FMH) to get some hop character too? 
>That's putting your hops in the mash tun. Or just more authentic
>First Mash Junipering (FMJ)? 

Please, do not use hops when brewing sahti. This is because if you 
boil hops you get bitterness in your sahti. This is an absolute no-
no. Sahti should taste sweet - you don't want any bitterness, because 
it would balance (reduce) the observed sweetness. 

Many masters claim to use hops but not like they are used in brewing 
beer: first you boil the hops in plain water, discard the water and 
use the non-bitter hops in sahti. In addition, the amount of hops is 
very small, almost negligible, say a handful in several hundred 
liters of sahti. This amount is really nothing.

Juniper is usually used as a lautering aid: hot, boiling mash is 
poured onto a bed of juniper twigs. Personally, I prefer late 
addition of juniper to the traditional lautering with juniper 
branches: you need less juniper and the effect is more intense. This 
method is more of less "dry-junipering": after the fermentation is 
over, cut and crush juniper twigs into your sahti, start trials with 
about 0.5 g of juniper per liter, let soak for a week, filter.

Enjoy,
Ari Jrml


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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 18:30:16 -0400
From: "Steve Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net>
Subject: KillerY/A weizen to live/More- so many beers

In "Yeast Technology", by Reed et al, 1991, the Killer factor is identified as
a glycoprotein according to work by Bussey, 1972, nature 235:73-75.
- --
George DePiro writes ...
>  The reason big brewers do this is because Weizen yeasts
>   tend to autolyze readily, and the result of this is a dramatic decrease

[...]
Do I understand that you are saying that weizen yeast generally autolyse
readily, as opposed tho the strain specific effect mentioned recently ?  This
seems rather odd since nearly all yeast have a latent capability for
decarboxylation.  I wouldn't necessarily expect 4VG producers to share many
other properties in common.  Got a source ?

Also he writes ...
>   I feel that beer reviews here on the digest are of very limited
>   usefulness. Reviews of brewpubs are pointless to anybody outside of
>   the geographic region of the reviewer (i.e., almost everybody).

I think that www.pubcrawler.com is a better, since this maintains the
information collated and available for ready access.  As for pub reviews (on
pubcrawler) not being of value - I guess that depends on how often you travel.
It was a godsend when I used to travel 15-20 weeks a year.

 >Reviews of beers are highly subjective, and many micro and import
 >beers do not travel and store well.

All experiences in life are entirely subjective, only a shared experience gives
the illusion of objectivity.  Individual tastes differ.  Even so, I think that
over time and large sample spaces  there is broad agreement about what
generally constitutes a good beer or a bad beer   I would much rather select
from a list of 10 "might be goods" than from a sea of "don't knows" when I can
only have one or two choices.

>  As a beer geek (and BJCP type) I think it is important to try as many
>  different commercial beers as you (and your liver) can afford.

Gee, about 2 years ago I was given a Peach Lager (?) from Florida that tasted
only of diacetyl and grass with a bit of "bandaid" in the background.  If  you
really think it's important to try as many different commercial beers as
possible you'll certainly want to sample this one.  (note for the humor
impaired - this is sarcasm).

Not to disagree with the intent tho' - George is quite right that continuing to
sample a wide range of beers, including imperfect examples,  is a very
important learning experience.  I am not in advocating giving away judgment and
choice to either "pubcrawler" or the written reviews of experts, yet I find
such reviews useful.

Since we don't have time to sample all beers it is necessary to make choices
among the possibilities. I am only advocating that it is much better to make
that choice based on limited information rather than choosing at random based
on no information.  Don't you agree ?

Steve Alexander








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Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 15:52:53 -0700
From: Badger Roullett <branderr at microsoft.com>
Subject: sweet stout - nummy

here is that sweet stout recipe i was looking for earlier. i need to web
this one..

anyway, here you go..

For 10 gallons

13 lbs dark extract liquid
2 lbs crystal 80l
1/2 lb chocolate malt
2 lbs brown sugar
2 lbs Honey
1/2 lb roasted barley
1 1/2 oz leaf Northern brewer 7.0  (about 21 IBU)
4 cups leftove coffee for no real reason.

steeped grains in the oven at 150 for little over an hour, rinsed into
boiling kettle.  boiled for 1 hour, tossing in hops at first sign of boil.
Choreboy at the bottom spigot cleaned it up nicely.  split into two carboys,
and pitched Lallemands Windsor yeast. 2 packets each.

Tastes VERY NICE according to my freinds. but then they could be saying that
becuase i gave them free beer.

:)

*********************************************
Brander Roullett aka Badger

Brewing Page: http://www.nwlink.com/~badger/badgbeer.html
Badgers Brewing Bookstore: http://www.nwlink.com/~badger/brewbook.html

In the SCA: 
Lord Frederic Badger of Amberhaven, Innkeeper of the Cat and Cup Inn



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---